Chapter VI: The Panic in Serajevo

Outbreak of the Insurrection in Bosnia—Roadside Precautions
against Brigands—Panorama of Serajevsko Polje—Roman Bas-relief
of Cupid—Roman Remains in Bosnia—_Banja_ and _Balnea_—‘The
Damascus of the North’: first Sight of Serajevo—Her History and
Municipal Government—Fall of the Janissaries—Dangerous Spirit
of the Mahometan Population of Serajevo—Outbreak of Moslem
Fanaticism here on building of the new Serbian Cathedral—We
enter the City through smouldering Ruins—Hospitable Reception
at English Consulate—Great Fire in Serajevo—Consternation of
the Pashà—Panic among the Christians—Missionaries of Culture:
two English Ladies—Causes of the Insurrection in Bosnia: the
Tax-farmers: Rayahs tortured by Turks—‘Smoking’—The Outbreak
in Lower Bosnia—Paralysis of the Government, and Mahometan
Counter-Revolution—Conjuration of leading Fanatics in the Great
Mosque—We are accused before the Pashà by forty Turks—Consular
Protection—The Fanariote Metropolitan and Bishops of
Bosnia—Their boundless Rapacity, and Oppression of the Rayah—A
Bosnian Bath—Mosques and Cloth-hall of Serajevo—Types of the
Population—Spanish Jews, and Pravoslave Merchants—Bosnian Ideas
of Beauty!—Opposition of Christians to Culture—Extraordinary
Proceedings of the Board of Health—The Zaptiehs—Continuance of
the Panic—Portentous Atmospheric Phenomenon—The Beginning of
the End 234