Chapter V: Travnik and Foinica

A Turkish Cemetery—Arrive at Travnik—Taken for Insurgent
Emissaries—The ex-Capital of Bosnia—New Readings of
the Koràn—Streets of Travnik—Veiling of Women in
Bosnia—Survivals of old Sclavonic Family Life among Bosnian
Mahometans—Their Views on the Picturesque—Their Dignity,
oracular Condescension, and _Laisser-Aller_—Hostile
Demonstrations—Bashi-Bazouks—‘Alarums Excursions!’—Insulted
by armed Turks—Rout of the Infidels—Departure of Mahometan
Volunteers for Seat of War—Ordered to change our Route—A
Turkish Road—Busovac—Romish Chapel and Bosnian Han—The
Police defied—Our Mountain Route to Foinica—Ores and Mineral
Springs—Dignity at a Disadvantage—Turkish Picnic—The Franciscan
Monastery at Foinica—Refused Admittance—An ‘Open Sesamé!’—‘The
Book of Arms of the Old Bosnian Nobility’—Escutcheon of Czar
Dūshan—Shield of Bosnia—Armorial Mythology of Sclaves—The
Descendants of Bosnian Kings and Nobles—The Ancient Lords of
Foinica—The ‘Marcian Family’ and their Royal Grants—A Lift in
the Kadi’s Carriage—Traces of former Gold Mines—Mineral Wealth
of Bosnia—A ‘Black Country’ of the future—Why Bosnian Mines
are unworked—Influence of Ancient Rome and Ragusa on past and
present History of Bosnia, and on the distribution of her
Population—A fashionable Spa—Kisseljak and—Beds! 185