Chapter VIII: Mostar and the Vale of Narenta

Amulets against Blight—A Hymn in the Wilderness—We arrive
at Mostar—Our Consul—Anglo-Turkish Account of Origin of
the Insurrection in the Herzegovina—The real Facts—The
‘_Giumruk_’—The Begs and Agas and their Serfs—The Demands
of the Men of Nevešinje—Massacre of Sick Rayahs by
Native Mahometans begins the War—Plan of Dervish Pashà’s
Campaign—Interview with the Governor-General, Dervish
Pashà—Roman Characteristics of Mostar, and her Roman
Antiquities—Trajan’s Bridge—Ali Pashà, his Death’s-heads and
Tragical End—The Grapes of Mostar—Start with Caravan for
Dalmatian Frontier—A Ride in the Dark—Buna and the Vizier’s
Villa—Bosnian Saddles—A Karst Landscape—Tassorić: Christian
Crosses and interesting Graveyard—Outbreak of Revolt in
Lower Narenta Valley—The Armed Watch against the Begs—A
burnt Village—On Christian Soil once more—Metcović—Voyage
Down the Narenta Piccola—Ruins of a Roman City—The Illyrian
Narbonne—Metamorphosis of Sclavonic God into Christian
Saint—The old _Pagania_—The Narentines and Venetians—Narentine
Characteristics—A Scotch Type—Subterranean Bellowings near Fort
Opus: The Haunts of a Minotaur!—Adverse Winds—Tremendous Scene
at the Mouth of Narenta—_La Fortuna è rotta!_—Our Boat swept
back by the Hurricane—A Celestial Cannonade—Sheltered by a
Family-Community—Dalmatian Fellowship with the English—Stagno—A
Romantic Damsel—Gravosa, the Port of Ragusa 326