Chapter I: Havana, 1 (11)

The paths were of the worst possible description--deep ravines worn down by the tread of animals, and at certain seasons impassable. The mule of the lady fell, and as I sprang to assist her the branch of a tree caught me by the neck and made an abrasion; while in the act of getting her up down came the Irish nurse spraining her wrist; she was unwilling to re-mount, and declared she was kilt intirely; by great persuasion I got her on again. Then the children separated in the woods from the mother, upon the backs of these half-naked dark-skins, and sadly distressed her. Passing over rugged roads, crossing ravines, deep gorges, the remains of dead animals and bones of mules lying by the way, we came to the tents or shanties of supplies; the occupants looked sepulchral from fever. Piles of empty bottles, were round, and disappointed Californians were returning. The natives did not want to go on, but I pushed them up to the work, anxious for my charge, and a little after sunset entered the gates of the old, desolate-looking city of Panama, and stopped at a filthy hotel. I was never more rejoiced; I had left the last from Chagres, and arrived the first at Panama with all the incumbrance, and the gentlemen voted me a leather medal. The ship Columbus, Capt. McGowan, was in port. I put the family under his protection, feeling satisfied then I had done my duty. The town was infested with gamblers who quarrelled. I heard pistol shots in the room adjoining mine at four A.M. and presently a negro policeman in pursuit of some one, pistol in hand, marched through my room, from a balcony and down the stairs.

The transit of passengers to and from California had already changed the appearance of the decayed city. The American signs were a distinguishable feature, and the movements of animals with freight and passengers, on the arrival of steamers, gave some tokens of life. I waited for the steamer Panama, Capt. Watkins, which was to stop at many points on the coast, en route for San Francisco, coasting along Costa Rica, San Salvador, and Nicaragua, thereby breaking the monotony of the voyage. We had a passage of seven days to Acapulco, where we obtained coals, fruits, and such supplies as were necessary. The heat in the Isthmus was oppressive. Fever cases not numerous, though we had several on board. It was a relief to get ashore for a day at this Mexican town, and ramble over the hills looking down upon its beautiful bowl-formed harbor, surrounded by high volcanic country; I strolled through the poor bazaars, and under the big tree where the natives were selling their fruits and wares; it looked neat, clean, and refreshing in comparison with Panama. A short walk here in an orange grove, with the sight of a few cocoa-nut trees, is a happy change from a crowded ship.

The next point was San Blas en route to Tepic; much annoyed with sand-flies. Stopped next at Mazatlan, a rather pleasant town, pretty well built; called upon some Spanish Senoritas, who occupied a pretty house and garden, and regaled us with fruits, accompanied with good music upon the piano. Dined tolerably well at a French restaurant, at California prices. Our next landing-place was San Diego. After passing Cape St. Lucas and the Gulf of California, the Pacific Ocean is no more entitled to its name. Cold winds and heavy sea, and we suffered from the effects; all the way up to Mazatlan you could see the upper deck covered with hammocks and mattresses; I counted fifty persons stretched upon deck, but afterwards went below; there was scarcely room for the three hundred and fifty passengers. The Panama fever disappeared. We were getting short of coals on the passage, and took in thirty tons at the price of fifty dollars per ton, fifteen hundred dollars. Were obliged to pay three hundred dollars for three thousand pounds of potatoes, at ten cents per pound. I strolled up the mountain which separates the bay from the ocean, and procured wild flowers for the ladies on shipboard. The hills, covered with low undergrowths of bushes, reminded me of the heather of Scotland, with an abundance of quail. The mountain torrents have produced extraordinary formations. We next entered the harbor of Monterey, California, as the sun rose, and for the first time descried the mountains of the Sierra Nevada covered with snow. The contrast between the deep blue water, and the green woodlands, and verdant lawns in the distance, struck us with delight in the first rays of morning sun. We reached the harbor of San Francisco in twenty days from Panama. I was struck with the forest of masts, which exceeded my expectation. Went ashore in small boats; all life, bustle, and activity; city growing rapidly beyond all estimate; stopped at the Union Hotel, a large brick substantial building, the best hotel in the city. Charges, boat ashore, each two dollars; baggage porter, two dollars; hotel bill, board, daily seven dollars; wine, five dollars per bottle; blacking boots, twenty-five cents; refreshments, fifty cents per glass; cigars, twenty-five cents; washing, five dollars per dozen. You will perceive they are gold-dust prices.

At the first breakfast a lady passenger sat beside me whose husband was unwell. I saw a gentleman eating eggs, and ordered a couple; the lady concluded she would try them also. Presently the servant came with a card, saying that eggs were extra; of course politeness induced me to write for four; on inquiring afterwards I was told the price was fifty cents each; the landlord paid six dollars per dozen to accommodate travellers, and if any of the eggs were bad it was a dead-loss. A soirée was given by the boarders, and well attended by gentlemen; the few ladies in the city were present; a band of music was engaged; a magnificent supper provided, with fruits, ices, and champagne in profusion. While the party was engaged in the waltzes I stepped aside for reflection, and asked myself, “Is it actual or magical, when I am told where this house now stands two years since were only seen tents; and that now a large city is rising up where recently were fisher-huts, and all through the magical power of gold!”

It now appears that my suspicions of the natives on the Chagres river are verified, for I have learned that a boat’s company of six men, two women, and two children, who were on their way up with us, and whom we passed in the night, were murdered while asleep, and their bodies secreted in the bushes.

LV.

TRIPS TO BENECIA, SACRAMENTO, STOCKTON, CALEVARAS DIGGINGS, &c.

I took the steamer Wilson G. Hunt for two days and went up to Benecia, the pacific mail station, where I met my old friend Catherwood, and talked of Palestine matters. Rode out to Vallejo, the newly designed capital of California. The officers of the U.S. Barracks politely offered horses for the excursion; vast quantities of game, and immense number of cattle grazing in the neighborhood, but not a house yet erected, and doubtful if there will be. Crossed over to Martinez, and was amused at the horsemanship of the native Californian or Mexican race, who run their horses at full speed and bring them down suddenly on their haunches. Continued with next steamer to Sacramento up the river; streets muddy, from excessive rain; could not get in the country. The gambling-houses with bands of music in full blast; the miners crowding around with bags of gold, staking their all; the city building up rapidly; every variety of character to be found in this new country, good, bad, and indifferent. So much has been said by others it would be useless to enlarge. Expenses enormous; everybody employed at something. One young gentleman of New York was driving team at ten dollars per day; another, turned carpenter, was shingling a roof at the same wages; never drove a nail in his life until he came here, but necessity knows no law. A single crab costs fifty cents, equal to the price of an egg. With the tide of emigration these things will regulate themselves, and with more resources California will become one of the most productive States in the Union. Returned to San Francisco; took the steamer up San Pablo Bay, and the cut-off to Stockton, in company with a friend, the proprietor of a quartz-mine, in order to visit the gold district. Having procured a strong wagon and a pair of horses, india-rubber covers and blankets, a supply of barley for feed, off we started. The rain came down in torrents; stopped at a ranche and dried ourselves, drove to another, and passed the night in a double bed and mattress on the floor; sack wet through, clothing out to dry by a fire. Price, for horses and wagon twenty dollars per day; feed, each time twelve pounds of barley at two shillings, three dollars; meals a dollar and a half each. Next day rode to Cherokee Ranche; met a party of Americans, with arms in hand, in pursuit of Mexicans, near the Hawk’s Eye Ranche, and dared not stop, as they threatened the extermination of the Greasers, as they called the Mexicans. Passed a disagreeable night in a log-cabin. A vagabond of a fellow has just killed a Mexican in the woods near the cabin; the half-drunken scoundrel could not be turned out, and sat before a huge fire; the chimney of logs was carried up outside the rude hut. We lay in bunks upon our blankets and straw. I slept with one eye open, and my six-shooter in hand; finally at a late hour, in came a German in a red shirt and slouched hat, whom I soon recognised as being from Puerto Cabello. He told me, that in the war between Gen. Paez and Monagas he was obliged to fly. He was well connected, I had known his family, and it was a relief to meet him. Next day arrived at Carson’s Creek, having passed Calaveras Creek diggings, Angel’s Creek, and looked at the rocking-cradles and long toms of the miners, and passed through the villages of tents of the Mexicans who had deserted; met them on the road flying with their women, children, and donkeys.

The lassoing of a bull attracted my attention; the position of the horse, the shot, and falling of the animal, reminded me of the bull fights in Havana and Spain.

We finally arrived upon the summit of a high hill in a mountainous country; the valley filled with tents, and the earth thrown up by the diggers as by an earthquake. We lodged in an open cabin, built of staves rived out of the tree, without floor; a rude pine table; fried beef and potatoes, with coffee, and hot, hard, wheaten cakes was our food. The quartz rock produced abundantly. The opening, ten feet by seven, and ten feet in depth, had already produced the value of fifty thousand dollars. There were three casks in the cabin, headed up, full of quartz strongly charged with gold, besides sacks and bags. This important discovery was not yet known, otherwise it would have been dangerous; we were six persons sleeping upon straw, with a blazing fire, which gave light sufficient for an enemy to point through the opening anywhere, and kill the party. I felt anxious, and was glad to get away within three days. The operation of breaking the quartz was performed with rollers of stone drawn by mules; the more valuable pieces were broken with a pestle; some lumps weighed eight pounds. There were seven partners in this valuable claim. We came down with a quantity of the specimens, accompanied by Jack Hayes, the famous Texian ranger, who exhibited his skill with pistols in shooting the gopher, a little animal not unlike a ground mole. Ground squirrels abound in California, and are destructive to the crops. The scenery was at times magnificent; the thick heather, or undergrowth of the grizzly bear, in some parts is prominent. At one ranche the owner showed us some young cubs. There was some beautiful prairie country, capable of fine cultivation, and excellent grazing, which produces fine horses and horned cattle.

The wood-pecker provides for himself singularly in this country. I was struck with the mosaic appearance of some trees, and on examination found that this bird had bored holes in the thick bark, and set in the acorns for his winter’s supply. At one ranche the hogs, sheep, and cattle looked remarkably well. At another stopping point, the owner has a pet ram, who knew a Mexican at sight, and bucked him with his head; he had a perverted taste for an animal, and was very fond of tobacco. His owner had an inveterate hate for an Indian, who had killed a brother of his. The Indians are fast disappearing. I was glad to get back to San Francisco, to prepare for my Oregon trip.

1851.

LVI.

OREGON TERRITORY, _May 5, 1851_.

By the powerful agency of ocean and river steamers, without disparagement to horse and mule force, I find myself transported from the southern mines of California, a distance of some nine hundred miles, and can scarcely realize that I am now writing in a log cabin of the Upper Willamette Valley, in which the first legislative committee of nine persons were sworn in office by the missionary (Rev. Jason Lee) after their election by a mass meeting of the early emigrants, in 1846, to decide if laws should be enacted for the territory. The interpreter, Dr. Newell, who is present, drove the first pair of oxen across the plains, and now occupies his claim of a mile square, or six hundred and forty acres.

After returning from the mines via Stockton, to San Francisco, I embarked with the ocean steamer Columbia for Astoria, and had the pleasure of meeting with an old friend, in the person of the Hon. Thomas Nelson, from Peekskill, recently appointed Chief Justice of Oregon, in company with the Surveyor General, J.B. Preston, and several ladies; among the number were five who came out from the States as school teachers, under the auspices of the Hon. Mr. Thurston, Delegate to Congress, who died at Acapulco, after having crossed the isthmus, and whose death creates a great sensation in the territory. He was a candidate for Member of Congress for the next term, against Gen. Lane, who now meets no opposition. We had an agreeable passage to the mouth of the Columbia, whose far-famed breakers troubled us but little, the weather being favorable. Cape Disappointment at the north, and Point Adams at the south, with its eight-mile entrance, scarcely showed us where lie hidden the frightful sand banks which have so long been the terror of the mariner.

Another hour brought us to Astoria, which lies under the mountain range with a dense forest in the rear, and is a miserable town, without comfort or convenience, just the reverse in short of what you would expect from the name of its founder, and the writings of Washington Irving. We found here a steamer which carried us to Vancouver, a distance of one hundred and ten miles up the Columbia, the river narrowing from Astoria, as you proceed up stream, down to a mile in width, and sometimes less. The shores are mostly high lands, and are covered with impenetrable forests of firs of the most gigantic growth. Vancouver is the military post, and we found here the Mounted Rifle Regiment; it is in a most desirable position, situated upon a beautiful rising plain in an old settled part of the country, the establishments of the Hudson Bay Company being located here, and well worth visiting. They are in an immense inclosure, picketed with piles thirty feet in height, and containing several acres, with block-houses and towers fortified, and inside are immense store-houses for goods, and the dwellings of the governor and employees. Six miles below this point is the mouth of the Willamette, which river we ascended twelve miles to Portland, nearly the head of navigation for three-masted vessels, where we take whale boats or bateaux to proceed to Oregon City, which lies below the falls.

We chartered a boat with six Indian oarsmen, and, as it had a windlass in the bow, and an immense coil of rope to fasten to the trees for hauling up the rapids, we proceeded well until night overtook us within two miles of the town, where the rush of water was too much for us. After making ineffectual efforts until nine o’clock, we abandoned all hope until morning unless we should find shelter in a log-cabin, there being one, we were told, on that side of the Clackamas river. We divided our party of gentlemen, leaving enough for the protection of eight ladies, and commenced pioneering through the dense forest, without the aid of a lantern, until we discovered the timber burning in clearing up the land, and found the log cabin, but our only success was the borrowing of a dug-out to cross the Clackamas and to try to get to town to procure whale boats. Judge Nelson, our guide, and myself squatted in the bottom of this egg-shell canoe, and were paddled across this turbulent stream. We got to town about midnight, worn down with fatigue, our boots and clothes torn from contact with fallen logs, and from crossing ravines; but we were too late to obtain assistance until morning, so the party were obliged to camp in the open boat. Having been recommended to Gen. Gaines, a noble-hearted Kentuckian, who has seen service in Mexico, now Governor of the Territory, I was invited to join him and meet the commissioners now in treaty with the Indians. Our route of twenty-five miles through dense forests, ravines, and cane-brakes, and over prairies and streams, was intensely exciting, and to one who had not had some experience in California and Texas, it would have been startling. I found here three tribes of Indians encamped upon the plain, and was not a little amused by their ball plays, their war and other dances around the camp fires in the evening, and their gambling games which are sometimes kept up noisily all night.

The Yam Hill and Lukamuke bands of the Callapooya tribes are rapidly diminishing in numbers by disease. The Molalla tribe are mostly horsemen and warriors, and are a fine-looking race. The commissioners have just succeeded in effecting treaties with two of the bands, which I was called upon to witness; and it was an interesting sight to see Governor Gaines, Judge Spencer, and Colonel Allen, opposite the three Indian chiefs belonging to each tribe, with the interpreter and secretary, in grave council, while in the interior of the log cabin and around the door were collected many of the tribe, anxiously zealous of their rights, and suspicious lest any one band should get more than the other. The commissary distributes daily the flesh of a bullock, with rations of potatoes, flour, and salt, and the camp fires are constantly smoking. Their horses are hobbled and grazing on the prairie and in the woods; occasionally they mount them, and dash over the plain with the speed of the wind. The distribution of blankets, calicoes, and various articles, will take place when they leave. By the treaties for sale of lands and removals, they are provided with agricultural implements, supplies of provisions and clothing, horses, and in some cases, log houses instead of tents which they now occupy. This is to continue for twenty years, which is liberal on the part of the government.

The French prairies, a few miles from here, are mostly settled by French Canadians, who were the early settlers, having been engaged in trapping. I found one who was with the first expedition of Astor, some forty years since, and who has now his family of half-breeds, and his mile square of land.

From this point we have travelled in the country on the opposite side of the river, and from the summits of the highest hills had some magnificent views of the mountains of St Helena, Hood, and Rainer, eternally covered with snow, and of the immense forest of firs and pines, intervening with prairie land, the whole forming a panorama of surpassing wildness and beauty.

LVII.

SAN FRANCISCO, _May 20, 1851_.

On my return to this city from Oregon, a scene of desolation presented itself. The boatman who brought me and an elderly gentleman ashore, who had lost property largely, as also friends who had perished in the flames, was ordered to land us on the beach near a hotel which had escaped, as I knew not whether the house where I left my effects was saved; but fortune had favored me once again, for the second time in this voyage--the first being in the destruction of the St. Charles hotel, in New Orleans. As we guided our boat between the blackened piles and charred dock timbers, with scarcely a landmark for a circuit of acres, which had so recently been covered with stores filled with merchandise, the heart sickened at the sight, and the old man, with his grey locks, sobbed aloud and wept, and leaned upon me for support. I took my way up the street, and discovered with satisfaction that I had a home, although thousands were scattered, many without a shelter or a change of clothing. I found the outbuildings and fences burned off the lot, but a change of wind and great efforts had saved our house. You have before this had full particulars of the destruction of property in this, the greatest conflagration that the city has ever experienced, and one which will cause distress and immense loss to many in the Atlantic States. I have never yet found a people who meet disaster with so much fortitude, and who possess the same recuperative faculties.

While the ruins are still smoking, some of the most business streets are being rebuilt, and the rapidity with which the work progresses is magical. The buildings now constructing being of wood and of frail material, are soon erected; and many house-frames were in the market, the remains of former speculations, which enables the builders to advance rapidly. The activity of the workman is exhausting; and as the rainy season has passed, many places are occupied with goods while the roofs are not fully covered, and fortunately the store ships in harbor contained abundant supplies to recommence business.

The temporary buildings must give way in time to fire-proof structures, otherwise another conflagration must be the result, as the winds are high from the north-west during the summer, and calculated to sweep the flames towards the business streets, wharves, and shipping. It was a singular fact that the fire should have occurred on the anniversary of the disaster of last year, and many persons fear the torch of the incendiary on the 14th of next month, that being the date of the second misfortune the last summer. The citizens are now enrolling themselves as a special night patrol.

From early morn until night is now heard the constant serenade of the saw and hammer of the carpenter, and the trowel of the mason. Many who have lost their all, retire in disgust; others start for the mines; others, even after the third or fourth visitation, if they have anything left, try it again, believing that the same elements of prosperity still exist in the country. It is a harvest for laborers and mechanics, and attracts many from other points about the country. The former obtain six dollars per day, while carpenters and painters have ten dollars per day.

I attended yesterday the funeral of a worthy young man who lost his life from over-exertion at the fire, and to-day looked at the ruins of an iron building, with the only survivor out of six who were within during the fire, and who made his escape by the scuttle and passed over the burning roofs of the adjoining buildings, while his brother and the remainder of the party were roasted alive. The streets, being planked, added fuel to the flames, and made it difficult for persons to escape. We have had a shock of an earthquake as a closing scene; it was felt so sensibly as to rattle the crockery of the ladies in the houses, but more positively down the coast, sufficiently there to remind one in a slight degree of Naples and Messina.

The smoke rising from the charred timbers, with the dust and ashes carried by the high cool winds which prevail every evening, makes the climate at present very disagreeable, particularly to those affected with any bronchial difficulty. I shall avail myself of the advantage of a trip down the valley of San Josè, called the Garden of California, where I will have an opportunity of visiting another great source of wealth to the country, the Quicksilver Mines.

LVIII.

LAHAINA, SANDWICH ISLANDS, _June 23, 1851_.

In my last communication from California, I think I intimated, at least I meant to intimate, my departure for China, via the Hawaiian group of islands. I have never known the same difficulties experienced by shipmasters in procuring crews; we were considerably delayed, waiting for the sailors, notwithstanding the enormous wages of one hundred dollars per month, which are paid, and which is not in their estimation equal to the allurements of the mines, until they find themselves without means, and obliged to take to their ordinary avocation.

Our list being finally filled by the rapacious landlords, who devour the substance of the poor Jacks, and force them on board after getting them well in debt, we proceeded to sea with a mutinous crew, and nothing but the rigid deportment and treatment of the officers brought them to their duties.

We were becalmed the first four days, which monotony was partially relieved by shooting at a species of Albatross, a large aquatic bird, and by fishing for sharks, of which we had large numbers, and sending an occasional rifle-ball into the backs of the large whales which were playing and spouting about us, producing a sound not unlike the escape-pipe of a Mississippi high-pressure steamer. At length our captain grew weary of the continued calm so near the coast, and charging my only fellow cabin-passenger with being a Jonah, he would now feed him on sea-fowls’ eggs, of which we had a supply from the small islands, and shark-stew and steak, which was the last recourse to raise a breeze. As Prince Murat, who died in Florida, said he found all animals eatable except the turkey buzzard, we concluded to take the dishes dressed from a young shark which seemed to be enjoyed by the crew, and, if prejudice had not interposed, the repast would not have been unsavory. Fortune favored us and filled our sails, and in a few days we found ourselves in a latitude of the trade-winds, which blew steadily with agreeable weather until we made the island of Hawaii, with its volcanic fires illuminating the heavens at night; and moderate breezes prevailing under the lee of the island of Moui, commonly known as Mowee, gave us an opportunity of coasting, and examining the peculiar formation of the frightful rocks and chasms of extinct craters, as well as the verdant valleys produced from the decomposed lava. We finally made the harbor of Lahaina, most resorted to by whalers, to obtain fresh supplies of meats, fruits, and vegetables, of which there is an abundance, and here nature presented herself in her most luxuriant garb of tropical vegetation, with cocoa-nut trees filled with fruit, bananas, figs, grapes, melons, &c., reminding us much of the West India Islands, but with an entirely different population. One would suppose from the number of Kanakas of both sexes, and of all ages, that the inhabitants were amphibious, as they were rolling and dashing in the surf among the breakers.

Some of the most extraordinary anecdotes are related of them. They have been known to swim thirty miles when wrecked midway between the islands, and often stories of credible parties give greater distances. The missionaries wrought great changes; a fair proportion now read and write, and have a capacity for arithmetic; many are members of the church, and their condition is so unlike their barbarous cannibal existence when they were visited by Capt. Cook, who was murdered on Hawaii island, known as Owyhee, that one cannot but thank the cause of the missions. Mr. Balding, one of the pioneers of the work, with whom I dined, and who had resided for twenty-one years among those then barbarians, gave me much valuable information. The native population suffer much from measles and other diseases, contracted in their intercourse with foreigners; and their numbers, not unlike the Indians of Oregon, seem to diminish gradually as the whites supplant them. Their taro is the chief article of food, being a root easily cultivated, and when pounded and baked, or boiled, is called Poi, and it is amusing to see groups squatted around the large gourd shells containing it, while each member puts his finger in and twists it round until well loaded, which he conveys to his mouth. Its consistency is denominated single, double, or three-fingered Poi.

They still have their propensity for raw fish with a sauce of salt water and pepper, which they relish with great gusto. Instead of going in a state of nudity as formerly, the largest proportion now wear clothing, and those who have the means, in the towns, wear the most gay-colored dresses of light materials.

Passages are not unfrequently made in about nineteen days from San Francisco, a distance of two thousand two hundred miles, with the stormy north-west winds, to the tropics, where begin the trades, which will enable those from California who desire a warmer climate to escape a more rigorous latitude. Our passage was only an average one of eighteen days, but looking forward to my embarcation for Hong Kong from Honolulu, eighty miles further on the island of Oahu, I could wish the aid of steam for traversing the ocean waste of five thousand miles, and also to escape with certainty the frightful typhoons of the China sea, in August and September. But I expect at the latter place, the arrival of a clipper ship, which was to succeed us at San Francisco, and will give me an opportunity of seeing King Kamehameha’s dominions, of which Honolulu is the great port of entry of the Pacific Islands for the whalers, and also the residence of his majesty. Such information as I think may interest you I will communicate from there.

LIX.

HONOLULU, _June 27, 1851_.

From Lahaina I came to this place, the capital of the Sandwich group, upon the Island of Oahu, and I find to my satisfaction the arrival of the clipper ship Samuel Appleton, of eight hundred tons burden, by which I shall embark for China. I must say I am agreeably disappointed in the aspect of things here, and the advancement through the instrumentality of the Missions and American residents. During the season for the return of the whalers from their fishing grounds, large numbers of vessels are seen in port, and the conveniences now offered far surpass those of any of the other small islands. It is the residence of King Kamehameha, and all the principal functionaries of government. The town is regularly laid out upon the margin of a deep bay, with an extended valley in the rear, and an undulating country between the high mountain, volcanic ridges extending towards the north part of the island, through which draw refreshing winds, without which the heat would be insupportable.

The houses of the natives are formed of bamboo cane frames, and thatched with wild grass; the sides are covered with like material, which resists the action of the sun and rain. The houses of foreigners are constructed mostly of wood, with verandas, and are well adapted to the climate. Some of the public buildings are of stone.

I found a comfortable hotel, delivered my letters and papers, and passed the first evening very agreeably at a social tea party, where was present the daughter of one of the chiefs, who had been educated, and spoke English well. While sitting in the veranda we heard the most strange, discordant cries, and wailing sounds, proceeding from one of the palaces, and were told there was a new arrival of relatives from some one of the islands to attend the funeral of the princess Kepanonohe, grand-daughter of Kamehameha I., which will take place in a few days, and for which extraordinary preparations are making.

She was an elderly woman, and is now deceased three weeks, and lying in state. I proceeded to the house and found some fifteen persons, old and young, sitting and prostrating themselves on the floor, and uttering deep tones of distress that were pitiable to hear, and calculated to excite one’s sympathy, supposing them to be sincere.

I have heard the lamentations of the Jews under the walls of the ancient Temple at Jerusalem, and the hired mourners of Egypt, whose doleful cries rend the air, and who, from long practice, seem to experience all the anguish of the afflicted relative, and I was at a loss to subscribe to the divine command, “Weep with those who weep.” These wailings were continued until eleven o’clock, and were the last sounds I heard as I returned to my hotel, half a mile distant. Mr. Wylie, Minister of Foreign Affairs, gave us a letter to one of the chiefs called Paaki, who has the title of Chamberlain to the king; you will perceive there is no want of high-sounding names. We found that he occupied a fine house, which was built by an architect named Charles Nelson, from our town, whom I knew when a boy, and who has resided here for many years. The chief received us kindly, bade us enter, and showed us his establishment. He is a man of muscular frame, over six feet in height, well proportioned, and weighs three hundred pounds; he was dressed in modern style, with white duck suit, and Panama hat, a noble-appearing person, who looked the chief.

He spoke but little English. It is said he prefers his mat upon the floor of one of his cabins, and his dish of Poi, to the refined modes of life. He accompanied us to the palace of the king, which is a fine wooden mansion, recently constructed, and situated in the centre of a square inclosure surrounded by trees, and got up with considerable taste for this country. Some native troops at the lodge presented arms as we passed, to sustain the dignity of the place. The throne room contains the portraits of the royal family, some respectable furniture, and the portraits of Louis Philippe, Frederick, King of Prussia, and some views; which were more than I expected to find in a country so recently reclaimed from barbarism.

The same afternoon we procured horses, of which many are to be found, as the Kanakas are very fond of the quadruped, and proceeded to the north side of the island, through the valley, whose cultivation is mostly of taro, the island-bread. Some three miles from town we left the main road to visit the cascade, a small mountain torrent rushing down the rocks, which is a favorite place for sham battles and diving; and there we found several of the amphibious beings contending for the small pieces of coin which were thrown them in the water. Mounting our horses, we pursued our way through the valley, passing the low mud and bamboo huts, and dense thickets of small trees and bushes, with jagged and crooked branches, almost impenetrable outside of this narrow defile, through which the wind rushed strongly, while the dense clouds were lowering upon the summits of the volcanic ridges above, threatening to drench us, though we escaped dry. We met with considerable numbers of cattle, horses, sheep, and goats, which shows the advancement of the island.

Some seven miles towards the north the ascent is gradual, and brought us to the Pali, a precipice which certainly presents one of the most beautiful views the eye can behold, of the plain below, with its tropical trees and forests, with the ocean in the distance.

The descent is by an excavated road running round the peak, whose height is immense; it reminded me, in some particulars, of the excavation in the mountains of Caracas, under the government of Paez. Tradition says that the opposite and most lengthy peak, which appears to be only a foothold for a man, was occupied by one of the former chiefs, or kings, when pursued by his enemies, whom he hurled headlong as they approached. The following day I paid a visit to one of the young princes, who had been in the States, as also in Europe, the past year, in company with Dr. Judd, and found him in a bamboo, grass-covered house, within the inclosure of the palace grounds, seated upon a sofa; the ground floor was covered with matting, upon which squatted the lightly clad Kanaka women of the household. He conversed well in English, and expressed himself pleased with his voyages. The women are expert riders, and on Saturday of each week the whole town, male and female, who can procure horses, make it a gala-day. The former, who bestride the saddle, wear a bright yellow scarf, extending from the skirt of the dress behind to cover the stirrups in front, and round straw hats with wreaths of flowers, presenting, as they dash furiously along, a picturesque appearance.

I congratulate myself in having again escaped the loss of my luggage, as my fellow passenger from San Francisco has lost a part of his effects, while the remainder was wet through in coming ashore. The reef extends out about half a mile, and the heavy breakers capsized the boat’s crew, who narrowly escaped a worse fate. I was fortunately ashore with the captain.

LX.

HONOLULU, _June 26, 1851_.

The Yankee character for enterprise is admitted to be a peculiar one, whether productive of good or evil. On board of our vessel from Lahaina we received two Americans who had established a circus company in this place with great success, and had gone to the neighboring island to try their fortunes, but were not permitted to play. They had come here to present their petitions, and had numerous advocates, although it was contended by their opponents that the Kanakas were so fond of this amusement that they would exhaust their resources to gratify it. It is contended by some that the laws and regulations enforced by the missionary influence are too rigid, and that while the latter are actuated by good motives, their remedies have proved worse than the disease; that while the most stringent laws have been enacted against immoralities, they are entirely ineffective of good, as it is asserted that the most unblushing looseness of manners prevails in the islands. Another charge is against the teaching in the language of the country, and discouraging the use of other languages; and that civilization cannot advance when hampered by a tongue which, in the words of Onmittee Wyldie, abounds in names for every vice, but is without a name for any virtue, and which is too loose and ambiguous for official correspondence, permanent records, or civil contracts. They say that the discouragement of manly exercises among the natives, such as throwing the spear, and wrestling, in which they were so expert, has gained them nothing but increase of idleness, inactivity, and diminished cheerfulness, which are incentives to criminality. The missionaries, on the other hand, refute the charges alleged against them, saying, that they are not answerable for the acts of the Hawaiian government; that church and state have never been united in the islands; that the penalties imposed upon the people for their abuses in manners exert a powerful restraint; and that the natives are the only true judges, as they understand fully the nature, objects, and operation of the laws. They state that they have taught English as far as possible, but cannot teach an entire people a new language; that they had other work to do, leaving the translation of the Bible until such times as the people could understand it. They have been without doubt instrumental of vast good, having civilized and partly christianized these barbarians. They have had many difficulties to contend with, and those who are now enjoying the benefits of the present state of society, are the first to oppose them. They have without doubt committed some errors in judgment, which is usually the case with reformers who wish to make all classes conform to their standard of right and wrong; but I have generally found them useful, and obliging to the traveller and stranger, and desirous of imparting information; standing as pioneers at the outposts of civilization, and as useful in extending the area of knowledge and Christianity, as the hardy squatter of the frontier, in his advancing the agricultural pursuits of our western wilds.

When we reflect that in the year 1820 the first mission was established among a nation of low and brutal savages, who have been reclaimed from barbarism and instructed in Christianity, it must be admitted that much has been done, although it is contended by many that the population has been vastly reduced by contamination with the whites, and rendered less happy.

The churches, of which there are several, are attended by natives to hear the word in the native tongue, and large numbers are communicants, and follow up the externals, and many are strictly pious, but very many have to be dealt with, not being able to forget their former practices, which causes much labor for their teachers. They have here a House of Nobles, so called, whose acts are published with as much consequence as if they proceeded from the Parliament of England. I have been much amused in the island of Hayti with the supreme authority and dignity of the black emperor, Soulouque; and cannot help but look at some things here as a farce, but the advantages are that there is American talent here to dictate and pull the wires. I have had the opportunity of visiting and coasting through six of the eight inhabited islands of the Sandwich group, which extends between 18° 50´ and 22° 20´ N. Lat., and 154° 53´ and 160° 15´ West Long., and which composes eight thousand square miles with a native population of some eighty thousand--supposed. I am thus particular in describing their locality, as I had previously known so little of these remote specks on the vast Pacific, which were so far removed from us by reference to the chart, that I had never intended to visit them. As you may be interested in the language, I give you the following notice with the translation; it may be of service to those who wish to commence the rudiments at home.

_Fonu_--(_See Selom._)

OLELO HOOLAHA.--Ina. e. loaa ana kekahi. kanaka, mahope o ka
hooaba ana o keia palapala, e lawe ana, i ka PAAKIA.

_Olelo Hoolaha._--Ina e loaa ana kekahi Kanaka, mahope o ka hooaha ana i ka Paakai o Puuloa, a me ka ja, paha o na loko, a me ka ja o ku Pa Kuli, a o na Kanaka e loaa ana e laroe ana i ka Paakia i huna ia ma Puuloa, ua kuai ia ku paha a kehahi Kanaka malaili me ka lohe, ole a me ka ae ole o ka mea nono ka inoa malole, e hopo ia no lakou a hoopii ia lakou, a e hookokole ia lakou ma ka ano aihu.

Honolulu.

C. W. V.

TRANSLATION.

_Notice._--All persons, after this notice, found taking salt from Puloa, or fish from the pond Paa Kuli, or others, or any person found receiving salt made at Puloa from anyone, except with the permission of the undersigned, will be arrested, and an action of law brought against them for stealing.

Honolulu, June 6, 1850.