Chapter I: Havana, 1 (6)

I have visited all the ruins of Thebes, on the other side of the river, which occupied several days, but it is useless to attempt to describe them, as what I have already spoken of is not half of the ruins of this once magnificent city. Many are prostrate and nearly buried in the sand, but the traces are still visible. The temples of Goorneh, Northern Dair, Memnonium and Medinet Abou, with their columns and colossal figures, still raise their giant skeletons above the sands, and, as Mr. Stevens has said, “volumes have been written upon them, and volumes may yet be written, and he that reads all will have but an imperfect view of Thebes--that all the temples were connected by long avenues of sphinxes, statues, propylons, and colossal figures, and the reader’s imagination will work out the imposing scene that was presented in the crowded streets of the now desolate city, when, with all the gorgeous ceremonies of pagan idolatry, the priests, bearing the sacred image of their god, and followed by thousands of the citizens, made their annual procession from temple to temple, and, ‘with harps, and cymbals, and songs of rejoicing,’ brought back their idol, and replaced him in his shrine in the grand temple at Karnak.”

The tombs of the kings are by far the most ancient and interesting of all the antiquities of Thebes. There is nothing in the world like them, and he who has not seen them can scarcely believe in their existence. The whole mountain range is one vast cemetery, and it is supposed that some millions of bodies were deposited there. On passing through an Arab village, one half of which was composed of excavations for mummies, in which the Arab finds a better resting-place than his mud cottage, we were almost suffocated with the dust and scorching rays of the sun, and were also surrounded by scores of men, women, and children, with various relics of antiquity, such as heads, hands, and feet of mummies, also remnants of sarcophagi, beautifully painted. The road is through a dreary waste of sand after leaving the fertile valley of the Nile, and the tombs show their dark and gloomy openings in one of the most desolate spots imaginable. There are very many of these tombs, but the principal one, which is called Belzoni’s, having been discovered by him, is three hundred and nine feet long, and contains fourteen chambers of different sizes. A flight of thirty steps descends to the entrance, where the doorway, wide and lofty, is without sculpture. Here is a hall, extremely beautiful, twenty-seven feet long and twenty-five feet broad, having at the end an open door leading into a chamber twenty-eight feet long by twenty-five feet broad, the walls covered with painted figures as perfect as if only a month old. Another flight of steps here descends to a chamber twenty-four feet by thirteen. The walls are covered with figures, marching in solemn procession to the regions of the dead. This flight of steps leads to another doorway, over which is seen the sign of the goddess of darkness. Advancing to the next corridor, the walls are covered with figures of boats, rams, mystic emblems of the gods of Egypt, &c. Another apartment is adorned by massive square pillars, which, like the others, are covered with hieroglyphics. Returning into the great chamber, and descending a flight of eighteen steps, we follow a continuation of the corridor, the walls of which are covered with paintings representing the actions of the monarch, perhaps the tomb of Pharaoh. In passing from hall to hall, we saw a lofty arched saloon, thirty-two feet long and twenty-seven feet broad. One of those chambers is forty-three feet long and eighteen wide. One apartment is adorned with two columns and a raised stone bench, hollowed out, in recesses extending all around the chamber. In the centre of the grand saloon was found a sarcophagus, of the finest oriental alabaster, only two inches thick, minutely sculptured within and without with several hundred figures, and, it is said, perfectly transparent when a light is placed upon it. The walls of these chambers and other tombs are generally covered with intaglio and relief, representing funeral processions, the serpent, and many other emblems of eternity--sarcophagi, religious processions, a great variety of animals and birds, agricultural scenes and implements, sacrifices, sacred boats, gods, goddesses, priests, chained captives, the cutting off hands from the arms by way of punishment, &c. &c. These magnificent halls, by the light of our torches, produced a magic effect in going from the dreary desert without.

After having visited many of the tombs of the kings and others, we took the statues of Shamy and Damay on our route. These two sitting statues, of enormous size, are in the centre of a vast cultivated plain, and are of equal size, being fifty-two feet high and forty feet apart. The thrones on which they sit, are thirty feet long, eighteen broad, and eight feet high. Both have suffered considerably from violence, particularly the vocal Memnon. These figures were formerly part of a grand avenue of sphinxes.

While at Thebes we had a mutiny among our crew. We were unfortunate in having Arabs and half Barbary negroes, who could not agree. Our only recourse was to present ourselves before the governor or sheik of the little village of Luxor, with the all-powerful firman of the Sultan and Mehemet Ali in hand, and make known our grievances. The usual form of justice was administered with the calash, or piece of rhinoceros’ hide, to one of the worst by way of example, and the sheik finding the barbarians still obstinate, imprisoned them until we were ready to start, while he and his associate, the governor of the Nile, came down to our boat, sipped our coffee, smoked our long pipes with the dignity of a grand seignor, received the “backsheesh” of eight piastres each, equal to three-fourths of a dollar, and went off perfectly happy.

Our next place of debarkation was at Belianach, where we mounted donkeys, without saddle or bridle, and rode to the ruins of Abydos, the capital of the great Osymandias or Osmendes, who is supposed to have lived 2276 years B.C. There are some remarkable ruins there. Among the number the Memnonium and small temple of Osiris, remarkable for having had a sanctuary made of alabaster, and for containing the famous tablet of the kings, which, next to the Rosetta stone, has been of the greatest assistance to the students of hieroglyphics. The valley of the Nile at this point, I should think, is six miles broad, and abounding in vegetation. The wheat is in blossom, beans and peas are ripened, and it was a rich sight to see the herds of goats and sheep, camels and buffalo, grazing upon the plain.

We were obliged to stop here for want of wind, and to replenish our crew, the barbarians having taken the liberty of making off, sans ceremonie. I have therefore been obliged to have another interview with the two governors at this place, who have promised to furnish us with men. The past two days my two companions have had plenty of amusement in shooting at crocodiles, as we had no wind, and the weather was warm. They are prepared for the heat of the climate, being dressed in Turkish costume, with heads shaved. It being a sin to shave the beard in this country, we have all a great profusion of hair upon the visage.

XXXII.

AFRICAN DESERT, _March 8, 1842_.

The governor sent us four men, called sailors, to supply the place of six who had absconded; but such a crew I never saw. One was blind of an eye, another lame, the third too old for service. The instructions of the governor, who had forced them on board, were, to continue with us to Siout, the capital of Upper Egypt, where plenty of men could be found. To cap the climax, the next day, while detained by a strong head wind, the lame, blind, and halt took leg bail, unperceived. We made a further application at another village, and succeeded in getting men to go as far as Siout, at which place we wished to stop, to visit Caves, about four miles distant from the river, in the mountains.

Having mounted donkeys, we started for the city, which is situated about a mile and a half from the river; and the road being studded with rows of trees on each side, it was an agreeable excursion.

On arriving within the walls, we presented ourselves before the Effendi, who occupied a handsome house, with a grove of palm trees in the rear. We found him squatted with his officers upon carpets, on a low divan, each enjoying the luxury of a long pipe, with an amber mouth-piece. He desired us to be seated, when coffee and pipes were presented; and, after the usual etiquette had been passed through, our credentials were presented, and our wants made known to the dragoman. He immediately sent his janizary to the governor of the Nile, with instructions to procure us a complement of good sailors, which was effected; and on paying them all they demanded, we succeeded remarkably well.

The streets of Siout are unpaved, narrow, and irregular; the houses are built of unburnt brick, and differ in no respect from the generality of those usually met with on the Nile. During the inundations the whole country is overflowed, and boats of the largest size anchor under the wall of the city, at which time it communicates with the river by an artificial causeway of immense size. The country about is rich and fertile in the extreme, owing to the annual inundations of the Nile. The palace and gardens of Ibrahim Pacha were well worthy of a visit. The tombs and immense chambers which are found in the mountain in the vicinity, are very interesting, but bear no comparison with those of the tombs of the kings at Thebes. On entering some of those gloomy chambers, with our torches, we were beset by bats of enormous size, that literally swarmed there, and afforded much amusement in the chase. On firing a gun in one of the dark recesses, we killed two, and found them to be the most extraordinary animals of the kind I had ever seen, being the size of a full-grown rat, and with much the same appearance, with the exception of the mouth, which was like that of a wolf, and the extended wings. On coming out of the tombs, covered with dust, and fatigued, we proceeded to the city to enjoy the luxury of a Turkish bath. The Orientals enjoy the vapor and hot baths to such an extent, that in almost all their towns and villages they are to be found; but I had no idea of finding such perfection here, and must, for the novelty of the thing, describe it. After passing two chambers, one hotter than the other, we arrived at the third, where the heat and vapor were almost suffocating, and there found half-a-dozen naked Arabs waiting for their three customers; when such a scene of confusion commenced as I cannot describe, to decide who should have the “white skins.” After they had fought it out, and our servants had settled it by agreeing to divide the backsheesh, or gift, they commenced with burning musk and perfume. While the perspiration rolled out from every pore, I was rubbed from head to foot with a camel’s hair glove, and then laid on the hot marble floor, while my arms were crossed upon my back and breast, and almost the weight of the Arab’s body thrown upon me. All my joints were drawn and cracked, while showers of hot water were thrown upon me; and, almost in an exhausted state, myself and my two companions were led into an adjoining room, with white turbans on our heads, wrapped in sheets, where we reposed upon divans for an hour, partaking of coffee, lemonade, and pipes. After this fatiguing, but refreshing, bath, one feels like a new man, particularly when the heat of the day is intense.

On descending the Nile, we stopped at several towns and villages to see the bazaars, and study further the manners and customs of the people, but I cannot attempt a description for want of space. I will, however, mention that we visited the pyramids of Sakkara, and the site of ancient Memphis; but as nothing of interest now exists at the latter, and having described in a former letter the immense pyramids of Ghizeh, I shall not speak of Sakkara, which is smaller, and of less consequence. Near the same site is Abousir, a small, miserable village, situated upon the edge of the desert, where are three pyramids of large size, and many tumuli. Near this place, after an excursion of four or five miles from the verdant banks of the Nile, we found the mountain which contains the famous Catacomb of Birds. With torches, we entered the narrow hole, on our hands and knees, to see places formerly occupied by the mummies. We found passages leading in every direction through the mountain, many fragments of mummies, and many a sarcophagus entire. The entrance to the Catacomb of Birds is by a pit, twenty-two feet deep, at the bottom of which is a horizontal passage, sixty feet long, nearly choked up with sand, dirt, and broken jars, along which one has to creep; but after some distance, the passage is high enough to stand erect, and there are large rooms in which are deposited the jars containing the sacred birds.

We arrived at Cairo on the 28th of February, having had fine winds and a rapid current in descending the Nile, for several days. My great anxiety to visit the Holy Land had been increasing upon me, although it was attended with great fatigue and risk, but my travelling companion, a Prussian nobleman, whom I met in Greece, concluded to accompany me. I took our dragoman, called upon the sheik of the Bedouin tribe, who could furnish us with camels, and with whom I made a contract before the Consul, in Arabic, to cross the desert to Jerusalem in fifteen days, he attending us. No danger was to be apprehended from the tribe, but some alarming events have already taken place, which I will recount in my next letter.

On leaving Cairo our caravan presented quite a formidable appearance, consisting of three dromedaries for ourselves and dragoman, four camels for our tent, water, luggage, and two servants, with five Arabs to drive the camels. For the greater security I had forwarded the most valuable part of my luggage to Alexandria, and myself and companion had an ample supply of fire-arms, and we were also disguised in the Turkish costume, which does not attract so much attention as a European dress. On the second day after leaving Cairo we encamped at Tanta, on the borders of the Delta and the Desert, where we understood Mehemet Ali had retired to his country-seat, and having made the acquaintance of Artim Bey, the first dragoman to his Highness, we were promised a presentation in the evening, our letters of introduction being satisfactory. On arriving at the gate of the wall which surrounds the country palace we were escorted by a number of the body guards, a corps which comprises a select body of one hundred men, to the portico, where were several sentinels with presented arms. Artim Bey here presented himself and invited us in, when we were delighted in seeing the extraordinary man who has figured so largely in Egypt for the past forty or forty-five years. On entering the saloon we discovered Mehemet Ali seated upon a divan which extended around three sides of the apartment. He was dressed in full Turkish costume, with his feet drawn up under him. He saluted us, and beckoned us to be seated, when our conversation commenced on different topics, and continued for half an hour. The subject of agriculture upon the Nile, the necessity of great exertion and labor to prevent the encroachment of the sands of the desert, the introduction of foreign trees and plants into Egypt, in which he has effected much, seemed particularly to interest him. He has yet the appearance of vivacity, is a man of strong constitution, short in stature, with a venerable long beard as white as snow. His age is now seventy-five. His leaning couch or pillow was of crimson, richly embroidered with gold, with long tassels suspended. In front of us on the floor stood two large chandeliers, elegantly wrought; his nephew sat upon the opposite divan, while the interpreter stood at his side, and some fifteen or twenty beys and officers, forming a separate group in a semicircle, following the laws of etiquette, remained standing during our visit.

In all private houses in Turkey and Egypt the pipe and coffee are almost immediately presented on being seated, but at the palace of the Pasha the pipe is dispensed with, and coffee only is presented in small gold and silver cups.

We are now in the solitude of the desert, and feel somewhat relieved from our apprehensions of robbers, with whom we have had an adventure, the particulars of which I must defer till my next. Our little hut in which I now write is about ten feet in diameter, sufficiently large for my companion and myself to spread our mattresses, arrange our private luggage and table, while outside of the tent the camels lie crouched upon all fours, forming a semicircle around a small charcoal fire, around which lie the Arabs stretched upon the sand. Our servants, having furnished us our evening’s repast, and satisfied their own appetites after a hard day’s ride upon the camels, have stretched their mats upon the sand by the side of the interpreter, and all is quiet except an occasional groan from a camel, or the half conscious song of an Arab. Really this travelling in the desert is of the most novel and extraordinary character, and, although attended with great fatigue, one is somewhat compensated by the peculiarity of the voyage, independent of the strong desire to see Palestine.

XXXIII.

QUARANTINE, GAZA, _March 18, 1842_.

My last was written in the desert, since which time we have been en route, and were quarantined yesterday on entering this place, it being represented that the plague existed in Egypt. On this voyage by the desert we have had adventure after adventure, and I must here relate the incidents alluded to in my last. The fourth day of our departure from Cairo we had travelled most of the time through a desert country, occasionally striking in the palm groves. At four o’clock P.M. we found ourselves near an Arab village, and our camels were discharged and tent struck, while the Count and myself started in pursuit of some wild ducks, but were followed by one of our Arabs, who, by signs and gestures, insisted that we should not pass by the village. We, however, persisted, and on returning I made the remark that I would not trust myself there without arms. In the evening one of our servants, an Armenian, to our surprise told us not to hang any clothes or loose luggage on the side of the tent opposite to where the camels and their drivers were stationed, saying there were many robbers who would steal our things in the night. We rather ridiculed the idea, not believing they dared approach the tent, knowing us to be armed. Our camel drivers pretended to watch through the night, and at one o’clock in the morning we were awaked with the report of a musket and the whizzing of a ball alongside of our tent, and the cries of our men to sally forth with our arms. In an instant with muskets and pistols we were outside the tent, while the bustle and excitement showed the brigands that we were ready for them if they came. It was the most fearful night I ever passed. The idea of being shot like a dog under cover of night, was not only exciting but provoking. In a state of anxiety we watched until four o’clock in the morning, during which time we had two pistol shots, but none taking effect. At this hour the men rose; we heard the cry of the Musselmans for the morning prayer in the village, and considered ourselves exceedingly fortunate in escaping unhurt.

At an early hour we left this place which was so full of danger, and which gave rather fearful apprehensions for the future. Our guns and pistols were kept charged and ready for use, and this evening we encamped some distance in the desert, away from the trees which form a cover for the robbers. In the evening one of our servants entered the tent, and I observed he drew a heavy sigh, and on demanding the cause he said nothing, but pressing him still further for an explanation, he said he had great anxiety for our safety; that in the village they were all Musselmans, and did not like the Christian pilgrims who go to Jerusalem, and would kill us--which was not very agreeable information, but this part of his story we could not credit. That evening after I had extinguished the candle and laid myself upon my mattress for a half hour, I heard the report of a gun not far distant. It was really extremely exciting after the events of the past night. Our men were watching, and we had resolved, if we were compelled to sell our lives, it should be at a dear rate. We passed the night under great apprehension, and in the morning passed through the village and found the walls of many mud-houses destroyed and deserted, and the inhabitants who remained appeared fit subjects for robbery.

The next night, after a hot and fatiguing journey, we found ourselves upon the borders of the vast desert which we were about to enter for several days. Not having slept for two nights, and there still being danger, we presented ourselves before the sheik of this village, which was of some importance, and with the firman of Mehemet Ali demanded a guard of eight armed men for the night, who surrounded our tent while we enjoyed the repose which we so much needed.

Here we were obliged to fill our vessels with water, and buy fresh supplies for six or seven days in crossing the desert. After quitting this village and getting into the desert we felt ourselves more safe, and encamped with much less anxiety. Occasionally we would see some Bedouin Arabs with their swarthy features and long black beards, with a carbine swung over their shoulders and a brace of pistols in their belt, having every appearance of the bandit, but of them we had no fear, as our camel drivers belonged to the same tribe, and our contract was made with the sheik.

In many parts of the desert we found the sand exceedingly light and the travelling difficult, the sand forming itself into mountains with the drifting of the wind, and resembling in the distance fields and mountains covered with snow. In other parts, particularly as we approached the sea towards Gaza, we found immense salt marshes, which were filled with the wild boar, and on the sand hills adjoining we would see large numbers of gazelles scampering away from us. Some of those salt water lakes which we passed are very beautiful indeed, and, with the crystallization of the salt, have the appearance of new-made ice all along the edges, and in some instances half skimmed over, while the banks are covered with stunted bushes of a grey color, and one imagines for an instant that it is the season of winter. Near one of these salt marshes we discovered a small pool of brackish water, from which the Arabs who had joined our caravan replenished their sacks, which they carry on their backs, and which are made of hog-skin. I could not help remarking the facility with which those travelling Arabs prepared their supplies. One of them, after filling his sack with water, took a sheepskin which covered his shoulders, and, placing it on the sand, poured on the inside some flour from another small sack, and with the water made his bread; then gathering some brush together, he instantly had a fire, and in a very short time all his wants were satisfied. The Arab of the desert is contented with bread and water; he looks upon what we consider necessaries as luxuries, and if he had them perhaps would not use them.

The gait of the camel is awkward and very fatiguing to the rider. He kneels and rises at pleasure, is very patient, subsists upon what he can gather from plants and shrubs, like the goat, goes many days without water, and seems in every way adapted for the desert. At night, in striking our tent, a scene of life and bustle presented itself in discharging our beasts; the mats are laid, the mattresses brought and spread, the luggage looked after and stowed away for the night; the camel-drivers are searching for wood and sticks, the camels stroll and graze; the cook makes a fire on the sand and prepares the dinner, after which comes the refreshing sleep, until the bustle of loading in the morning, which must be repeated every day.

After having passed the desert we arrived at El Arish, a miserable village on the frontier of Palestine, where we were told that at Gaza we would have to perform a quarantine of five or eight days, as we were supposed in coming from Egypt to bring the plague with us.

On approaching Scheik Inde, which is distant twenty miles, the soil is light, and grass and sand dispute possession with each other. Here we were stopped and tribute-money demanded. We wished to know the reason, to which one of the four persons who stopped us replied that they had been placed there by the Sultan to demand tribute of all strangers. This we doubted, and wanted to see their authority. Two of them were armed, and refused to let us pass without compliance, and threatened to hold our luggage. Really it was an act of daring impudence to be attacked thus on the high-road, and in the name of the Sultan too. We finally dared them to stop us, threatening not only with weapons but the vengeance of the Sultan, whose firman we had at command, when they concluded to let us pass. We have since understood that several persons through fear had paid the scoundrels heavy tribute.

The next day we came to the village of Khan Yunes, the environs of which were beautiful; the gardens filled with fruit trees and flowers, the hedges of cactus indicus or prickly pear, and the fields clothed with verdure, presented a lovely sight after having been in the desert country so long time. On approaching the gate of the village we were stopped and notified that we were to perform quarantine, which we believed they had no right to demand, and therefore we had no disposition to be thus delayed. We demanded an audience of the governor, but found he was absent. We insisted on passing, but they stopped our camels. We said we would perform quarantine at Gaza, but they would not allow us to pass through the village, and ordered us to pitch our tent on the commons, there to serve out our quarantine. High words ensued, the Count took up his gun and threatened to shoot the officer if he stopped his dromedary. We passed around the village on the road to Gaza, when I discovered some half-dozen armed men coming up, who were determined we should stop. Our next move was to show them that we had the firman of the Sultan and could not be arrested. Fortunately for us they could not read Turkish, and on our promise to be quarantined at Gaza, they permitted us to pass. We saw many others less fortunate, who were quarantined in the open field without a covering to their heads.

Yesterday we arrived at Gaza, the approach to which is beautiful indeed, the road winding through a series of gardens fenced with the cactus indicus, reminding me of Mount Etna at the base and of other parts of Sicily. The groves of olives with the sycamore tree form an agreeable shelter from the rays of the sun, and the country is exceedingly fertile. Before reaching the city we discovered a tent by the road side, from which approached an armed guard, and keeping at a respectful distance informed us we were to be quarantined from five to fifteen days at the direction of the Nazro, or chief officer of the quarantine. We found resistance would be fruitless, and were marched off to the ground, a mile from the city, where we pitched our tent upon the grass, and where I now write you. It is ludicrous, but at the same time disagreeable, to observe the guards keeping us off at the length of a stick to prevent our coming in contact with them, the plague being a contagious disease, and much to be dreaded. We desired an audience of the governor on arriving, that we might endeavor to lessen our quarantine, which of course could not be granted, as all persons coming from Egypt at this season of the year are suspected of having the plague with them. We then desired a visit from the Nazro, who this morning came to see us. Turkish rugs were sent outside the tent and spread upon the grass; coffee, pipes, and lemonade ordered for his reception. The first he had no occasion for, being squatted upon his own carpet, and indeed he dared not touch ours, as it was supposed to be pestiferous. The coffee and lemonade being in non-conductors were first placed upon the ground by our servant, at the distance of six or seven feet, when his attendant presented them to him. After having explained through our dragoman the time we had been in the desert, that the plague did not exist in Cairo when we left, and expressed great anxiety to arrive at Jerusalem, we then exhibited a firman from the Sultan, which was held at the distance of three feet with a sort of tongs and read; but he also discovered a small bit of paper which enveloped something _curious_, and on calling for perfume and fire to fumigate it, much to his surprise found some pieces of gold, which a Turk or Arab can scarcely refuse; but in this case he could not think of receiving it, being surrounded by too many witnesses. But he being satisfied that there is no possible risk in lessening our quarantine, and that our intentions were good, has this evening sent his secretary to say that, in consideration of our having passed so much time in the desert and several days in Syria, and out of respect for the firman of the Sultan, with a certain _indispensable backsheesh_, it would be unkind in him to detain us more than another day; we shall therefore be on the move again after to-morrow, and rejoiced to escape from being imprisoned a week or ten days without cause.

XXXIV.

JERUSALEM, _March 25, 1842_.

Some time since, when I crossed the mountains of Judea, and my eyes beheld the holy city in the distance for the first time, I could not help exclaiming, “Is it possible that at last, after a voyage of six or seven thousand miles from my native land, I am soon to visit the many interesting localities connected with the life and sufferings of our Saviour, from his nativity at Bethlehem to his crucifixion upon Mount Calvary?” most of which is now realized.

My last was from the quarantine at Gaza, after escaping which we entered the city, visited the governor, and in the name of the Sultan demanded an escort, which he readily granted, by sending two mounted gensd’armes who accompanied us to the town of Ramlah, the ancient Arimathea, where resided Joseph who took from the cross the body of our Lord and laid it in his own sepulchre.

There are no antiquities at Gaza, and the traveller looks in vain for the ancient gates connected with the history of Samson. The streets are narrow, and the houses, many of which are situated in gardens, are unglazed, but the location is beautiful, and surrounded with groves of olive and palm trees. Our first day’s travel from Gaza, through the land of the Philistines, brought us to a mud village at night, where we proposed striking our tent; but much to our surprise we found the bare-footed sheik and half-clad Arabs of the village would not permit it, asserting that the country was infested with robbers, that the villages were against each other, and that they would not be responsible for our safety. They showed us a mud khan, without any other opening than a sort of door to crawl in, which all Turkish villages furnish the traveller, and some of which are habitable for one night. Being finally obliged to submit and abandon our tent, which was a palace in comparison with this hovel, we struck our lights, and among rats, fleas, and apprehensions of robbers, from either the village or country, we passed a disagreeable night, escaping at break of day scarified with the bites of insects, and looking as if we had the small-pox. The next day we arrived at Ramlah, and were about pitching our tent in an olive grove, when our chevalier, who was mounted on a swift Arab, and who had gone in advance to procure horses to go to Jerusalem, came down upon us, saying there was an American Vice-Consul at that place, who invited us to his house. The invitation was readily accepted, as it commenced raining for the first time since we left Cairo. We were welcomed by this hospitable Greek with a hearty shake of the hand, and soon found ourselves at ease, seated upon a low divan, with the usual cup of coffee and pipe. It was a luxury to be once more under a roof, after sixteen days’ hard riding upon the back of a dromedary in crossing the desert.

The day we came to Ramlah, through our anxiety to arrive early, we put our dromedaries on full trot; mine stumbled and came down with me. It was a _long fall_, but I escaped with a slight bruise. Having sent our caravan in advance, we made a few excursions on horseback, and started the following day for Jerusalem. Passing the village of Ludd (Lydda), where the apostle Peter cured Eneas of the palsy, after two hours’ ride we commenced the first ascent of the mountains of Judea. The road winds by a rugged ravine, round a detached and barren hill, on the summit of which is the village of Latroun, or Thief’s Village, so called from its having been the birthplace of the criminal who repented on the cross, and for whom Jesus Christ performed his last act of mercy.

Soon after leaving this village, we entered the mountains, portions of which were extremely wild and romantic, and abounding with flowers. In some places the road, or path, was almost impassable, and steep with rugged rocks, and we had to lead our horses. This road is not considered dangerous, owing to the great travel from Joppa. We passed several caravans of camels, donkeys, Arabs, and also pilgrims, who presented quite a singular appearance; the men, women, and children in various costumes, and bound for the holy city. After passing the most elevated of the chain of mountains, where vegetation almost ceases, we descended into the Vale of Jeremiah, where we visited the sheik of Abu Gosch, of an ancient Arab family, who formerly demanded tribute of all strangers that passed, and whose tribe occupies the mountains; but his rights having been asserted and maintained against the Sultan, at length his authority was confirmed by his guarantee of the peace of the mountains, and we found several of his guards by the road-side at different points. He showed us his fine Arab steeds, and after partaking of an Arab repast, while seated upon Turkish rugs upon the grass, and an half-hour’s conversation through our dragomen, we left, and passed into a deeper valley, called the Valley of Turpentine, near which we came to the brook where the youthful David picked up five stones, with one of which he killed Goliah.

After a few hours’ ride over a rough road, where a few olive trees are the only signs of vegetable life, we reached the top of a high hill, when suddenly the anxiously looked for city presented itself to view. We soon found ourselves at the gate, where our bill of health was demanded, and found our caravan had been suspected and put in quarantine; but we were immediately liberated. We made the best of our way to the Convent of St. Salvador, visited the father, and got permission to stop.

The rooms of the convent are small, like prisons, with iron gratings for windows, but are considered comfortable enough for pilgrims, who have fared much worse en voyage. The first morning after my arrival, I attended the Episcopal service, and found a small congregation worshipping in my native tongue; and the words of Scripture which declare that “where two or three are gathered together in my name, there will I be with them,” were forcibly impressed on my mind.

I visited bishop Alexander and his family, whose mission was established last winter. The new church is in progress of construction, and bids fair to be a fine edifice.

Having had occasion to visit the palace of the Pacha, which was formerly the location of the house of Pilate, I mounted the flat roof where the panorama of Jerusalem was taken, and saw below me the square of _Harem Scheriff_, a grand and noble retirement for the Turks, which also incloses the mosques of Omar and El Aksar, built on Mount Moriah, where formerly stood the throne of Solomon and the judgment-seat of David; and a certain spot is shown, where the Turks believe Mahomet is to judge the world, assembled in the Valley of Jehoshaphat, below. None but Turks are allowed to visit its sacred precincts. It is prettily arranged with walks, fountains, and a few orange trees. I then strolled along the _Via Dolorosa_, regarding the localities with interest as they were pointed out; the place where Simon assisted to carry the cross; where the crowning of thorns took place; the residence of Simon, the pharisee, &c., until I arrived at St. Stephen’s gate, and passed down the ravine near which he was stoned to death. I soon found myself in the garden of Gethsemane, and here the olives have the appearance of great age. Near by was shown the spot where the apostles slept, while Christ went to pray in the grotto near at hand, and where he said, “_Father, if it be Thy will_.” The grotto is now fitted up by the Catholics, and lights are continually burning. There is a small chapel near by, fitted up as the tomb of the Virgin Mary. From the valley I ascended the Mount of Olives, which is a round, tabular hill, covered with verdure and a sprinkling of olives. To reach the summit is a long walk, and half way up are the remains of a monastery, built on the spot where _Jesus wept_ over Jerusalem, foreseeing how her people should be scattered, and her high places made desolate. On the top of the hill is the ancient church of the Ascension, now a Turkish mosque. Here is an impression made in the rock, to show the last footprint of our Saviour, and many a devout pilgrim concludes it to be as represented.

Here I had the best view of Jerusalem, with its embattled walls fortified with towers, and inclosing the city on all sides, with its seven gates.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the mosques, the Armenian convent, the Tomb of David, the Turkish burial-grounds, the spot where once stood the palace of Herod, &c., all present themselves at one view. The houses of Jerusalem are heavy, square masses, very low, without chimneys or windows, flat terraces or domes on the top, and look like sepulchres or prisons. The streets are unpaved, narrow, and obscure, and said to be generally very dull; but I was fortunate in arriving here to witness the ceremonies of the Holy Week, the same as I was at Rome, last year. The many pilgrims who come from different parts of Asia, Africa, and Europe, composed of Greeks, Armenians, Copts, Latins, and some Protestants, give the city life as well as variety of character and costume, and create an active demand for the necessaries of life.

My next excursion outside the walls was in passing the gate of the prophet David on the top of Mount Zion, nearly opposite to the tomb of David, and the scene of the Last Supper. Near the gate of Bethlehem we saw some ancient cisterns of Jewish workmanship, which are alluded to in Neh. iii. 16, and Chron. xxxii. 30. Here are also a number of sepulchres cut in the rock and well executed. These tombs are alluded to in Neh. iii. 6. Following the valley of the Gihon outside of the walls, we made a long walk until we came to the cave in which the apostles hid themselves after the crucifixion. Then coming along we passed the Potter’s Field, the price of our Saviour’s blood. On the opposite bank of the valley of Mount Saba near which flows the brook of Kedron, is the village of Siloam, partly built and excavated out of solid rock; near this is the Pool of Siloam, where we descended by a flight of sixteen steps to the water and found it excellent. A little further on are three ancient tombs, cut in the rock, and called Jehoshaphat, Zachariah, and the Pillar of Absalom--two are nearly square, and adorned with pilasters and columns. In the vicinity is shown the spot where Christ was arrested by the officer of the High Priest, and the _footprint_ is cut in the rock to mark the place.

XXXV.

JAFFA, _April 7, 1842_.

When I wrote you last from Jerusalem, I was about making an excursion to St. John’s in the desert; and had also sent a messenger to the sheik of the Bedouins, who was to provide an escort to visit the Dead Sea, the river Jordan, Jericho, &c. Mounted on horses we passed Bab-el-Khalib, or the Gate of the Pilgrims, and soon found ourselves in the environs, passing the cistern where Zadok the priest and Nathan the prophet anointed Solomon king over Israel. It is dug in the rock, the same as the pools of Solomon. We next passed the tombs of the Maccabees, situated on a lofty hill to the right, and in two hours’ travel, over rocks and stones, hill and valley, we passed through the village where the convent stands erected on the spot where John the Baptist was born. We proceeded much further, penetrating the desert where he existed in the wilderness forty days upon locusts and wild honey. Some parts of this excursion we found indeed gloomy, without any vegetation, but in others the groves of olives situated upon terraces, with the cultivation of the grape, forming hanging gardens, presented a striking contrast. Near one of these olive groves, from which it is asserted the cross of Christ was taken, a convent has been founded in commemoration. It was dark when we returned; the gates of the city were closed, but having employed the Janizary of the English consul to await our return, we were permitted to enter.

Space did not permit me in my last to speak of that which interests Christians most, viz. the Holy Sepulchre and Mount Calvary. I visited the church the first time alone, preferring to pay my devotions at the shrine of our blessed Redeemer without annoyance. The access is by a narrow avenue, from its being so blocked up with buildings, and there is only one entrance. Over the doorway is sculptured the triumphal entrance of our Saviour into Jerusalem, and to the left is a high tower, the ancient belfry. The first object that I observed on entering was the slab of marble which covers the “stone of unction,” upon which the body of Christ was anointed for the tomb, John xix. 39. A little further in I found the nave of a circular form, surrounded by sixteen pillars, supporting galleries, and covered by a dome. In the centre of this area is a small oblong marble building, surmounted by a small cupola standing upon columns. This covers the supposed site of our Lord’s tomb.

The Greeks, Armenians, and Catholics occupy the principal part of the church, leaving the Copts but a small part, and the Protestants out of the question. The Catholic service had already commenced, and the display of the robes of the priests embroidered with gold and silver, the goblets and other vessels of gold, silver candlesticks with immense candles burning, the mitres of the priests filled with precious stones, reminded me impressively of the ceremonies of the Holy Week at Rome.

On one side of the Holy Sepulchre upon the pave was seated a group of women and girls, with white veils over their heads and faces partly covered; also others from Bethlehem, with shawls of a yellow color and faces entirely covered. These were surrounded by a guard of Turkish soldiers placed there to preserve order; as, unfortunately, so much jealousy exists among the sects, it becomes necessary; but they look on with indifference and contempt, considering us infidels, and our religion a farce.

The groups of Greeks and Armenians in native costume, the latter with heads shaved and red caps, were scattered around the church, and presented a scene at once novel and impressive. Since the fire of 1808, which burnt down a considerable part of the church, and which was repaired by the Greeks with Russian aid, they have secured the most important part of the church, and it is magnificently fitted up, rich in paintings, images, and gilding. On the north side is the chapel of the Apparition, where our Saviour appeared to Mary Magdalen. There is another altar, in commemoration of the flagellation of our Saviour (John xix. 1). Near the entrance of the church I ascended a flight of steps to the rock of Calvary, where Christ was crucified. Here are two altars, one of them Greek and the other Catholic; both splendidly adorned, the floor of mosaic, the cross with the figure of Christ suspended, and the figures of two women, one on each side. The rear is filled up with pictures, small crucifixes of pearl, and all sorts of devices, lamps continually burning, and suspended ostrich eggs. Between two slabs of marble is a small grating, through which with a candle I could discover the original rock, to all appearance split by the earthquake which followed the crucifixion of Christ. In another part is shown an altar erected on the spot where the soldiers drew lots for the garments of Christ (John xix. 33). Then descending about twenty steps into a rocky court the spot is shown where the Empress Helena discovered the true cross.

These localities have the appearance of truth, and if deception has been practised it was well devised. I attended the various services in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but cannot go further into detail, for I must give you some idea of our visit to Jordan. Being informed that the road thither by Jericho was quite unsafe without a strong escort, and being notorious from early antiquity as beset by robbers, evidence of which the poor Levite had when relieved by the good Samaritan, we applied to the sheik of the Bedouins, and myself, my companion and dragoman, started with five Arabs, well armed. Passing the gate of Mount Zion, and crossing the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and part of the Mount of Olives, in half an hour’s ride we arrived at Bethany, the village where Jesus raised Lazarus from the dead. The monks here pretend to show the localities of the house of Simon the leper, of Mary and Martha, and the identical fig-tree which the Lord cursed. We proceeded, winding through the mountains and valleys, until towards night we discovered in the distance the long line of black tents, surrounded by herds of goats, sheep, camels, and horses. When we arrived, we found the tent of the sheik ready to receive us, but what a reception in the tent of the Bedouins! Here was man almost in his primitive state. Blankets of camel’s hair were spread upon the ground; the tent was inclosed on two sides only. The women and children seemed excited at the appearance of strangers, but soon recovered from their surprise. A small hole was made in the ground in front of the tent, some brush was brought, a few grains of coffee in an iron ladle were roasted over the fire, and at length the indispensable pipe and coffee were passed. The encampment formed a circle of about twenty tents, and while the old men and the most influential of the tribe formed a group in the front of the tent of the sheik, the women and children were employed in driving all the animals within the inclosure for the night. Our evening repast consisted of fresh bread with goat’s and sheep’s milk, after which we stretched ourselves upon the blankets, surrounded by some fifteen or twenty Bedouins, but not to sleep, as the noise of the animals and the crawling of insects were calculated to give us an early start in the morning. After traversing the mountain where it is said Jesus was tempted by the devil, and over hill and dale, we at last arrived at Jericho, which is entirely destroyed. The only object of interest is the supposed house of Zaccheus. After leaving Jericho we proceeded across the plain for about three hours, until we saw the trees in the distance which denoted the Jordan. We had already discovered a great deal of anxiety on the part of our Arabs in crossing the mountains, on seeing four men on the top of a mountain in the distance, and they remarked that they had lost several camels and sheep, and had had one of their tribe killed, all of which we concluded might be a farce to extort money from strangers; but on approaching the Jordan we discovered a party emerging from a thicket with muskets, and our Arabs were greatly alarmed. We were well armed; a consultation was held; the blessed stream where St. John baptized our Redeemer was in sight; we determined on proceeding at all hazards, and finally had the satisfaction of bathing in the stream and procuring some bottles of the water. The suspected party finally came up, and proved to be friendly Arabs.

The Jordan runs very rapidly; the banks are covered with trees and verdure, and present a very pretty appearance. I was struck with wonder and surprise when I reflected how in ancient times the shores of the Jordan were crowded with multitudes of human beings, while now not a habitation or a civilized being is to be found upon its banks; the only occupants that I saw were wolves and gazelles.

After leaving the Jordan we passed over a sandy plain until we arrived upon the shores of the Dead Sea, which is entitled to its name, it being unruffled, the water very heavy, and consequently very buoyant. I threw in several logs of wood, which floated like corks upon the surface. After washing my hands they were covered with an oily and scaly substance. The flavor of the water is extremely salt and bitter. It is contended by some that fish do not exist in it. I did not discover any shells or anything to indicate their existence. Others contend that fish are found, but of a poisonous quality.