Chapter I: Havana, 1 (1)

II. MATANZAS, 3
III. BALIZE, 6
IV. MOBILE, 8
V. TRIP FROM ALABAMA THROUGH FLORIDA AND GEORGIA, 11
VI. TRIP FROM AUGUSTA, GEORGIA, TO NEW YORK, 13
VII. A TRIP TO EUROPE, 17
VIII. NAPLES, 22
IX. MESSINA, 24
X. CATANIA, 27
XI. ROME, 30
XII. VIENNA, 35
XIII. PESTH, 38
XIV. PRAGUE, 41
XV. DRESDEN, 45
XVI. WITTEMBERG, 49
XVII. BERLIN, 51
XVIII. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAINE, 55
XIX. COLOGNE, 59
XX. AMSTERDAM, 63
XXI. ROTTERDAM, 68
XXII. MILAN, 72
XXIII. TRIESTE, 76
XXIV. ATHENS, 80
XXV. ATHENS, 85
XXVI. CONSTANTINOPLE, 90
XXVII. SMYRNA, 94
XXVIII. ALEXANDRIA, 98
XXIX. GRAND CAIRO, 101
XXX. THEBES, 106
XXXI. DJIRJEH, 110
XXXII. AFRICAN DESERT, 115
XXXIII. GAZA, 120
XXXIV. JERUSALEM, 125
XXXV. JAFFA, 129
XXXVI. VALETTA, 135
XXXVII. SUMMER TRIP, 1842, 139
XXXVIII. ROME, 148
XXXIX. GENEVA, 151
XL. MUNICH, 155
XLI. FRANKFORT, 160
XLII. BATHS OF EMS, 164
XLIII. COPENHAGEN, 167
XLIV. CHRISTIANIA, 173
XLV. STOCKHOLM, 175
XLVI. ST. PETERSBURG, 179
XLVII. MOSCOW, 184
XLVIII. CRACOW, 189
XLIX. ISLAND OF ST. THOMAS, 193
L. CARACAS, 197
L*. ISLAND OF BEATTI, 202
LI. JACMEL, 207
LII. HAVANA, 212
LIII. HAVANA, 216
LIV. TRIP TO CALIFORNIA, 220
LV. TRIPS TO BENECIA, SACRAMENTO, &c., 226
LVI. OREGON TERRITORY, 229
LVII. SAN FRANCISCO, 232
LVIII. LAHAINA, 234
LIX. HONOLULU, 236
LX. HONOLULU, 239
LXI. LADRONE ISLANDS, 242
LXII. CANTON, 245
LXIII. HONG KONG, 249
LXIV. SINGAPORE, 252
LXV. KANDY, 254
LXVI. KANDY, 258
LXVII. CALCUTTA, 261
LXVIII. FOR BOMBAY, 265
LXIX. BOMBAY, 267
LXX. ALEXANDRIA, 271
LXXI. ISLAND OF TENERIFFE, 274
LXXII. BAHIA, 277
LXXIII. RIO JANEIRO, 280
LXXIV. MONTE VIDEO, 284
LXXV. BUENOS AYRES, 286
LXXVI. OFF MONTE VIDEO, 289
LXXVII. PACIFIC COAST, 291
LXXVIII. SANTIAGO, 295
LXXIX. LIMA, 299
LXXX. QUITO, 304
LXXXI. PARIS, 309
LXXXII. BARCELONA, 313
LXXXIII. PALMA, 317
LXXXIV. VALENCIA, 321
LXXXV. MURCIA, 325
LXXXVI. MADRID, 328
LXXXVII. THE ESCORIAL, 333
LXXXVIII. VALLADOLID, 337
LXXXIX. SAN SEBASTIAN, 341
XC. PARIS, 346
XCI. MARSEILLES, 351
XCII. AJACCIO, 356
XCIII. BASTIA, 361
XCIV. SIENNA, 365
XCV. ROME, 369
XCVI. NAPLES, 373
XCVII. TURIN, 377
XCVIII. PARIS, 381
XCIX. AIX-LA-CHAPELLE, 385
C. BATH OF EMS, 389
CI. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAINE 393
CII. HANOVER, 397
CIII. BREMEN, 399
CIV. HANOVER, 401
CV. BRAUNSCHWEIG, 402
CVI. BERLIN, 405
CVII. PRAGUE, 407
CVIII. VIENNA, 410
CIX. PESTII, 413
CX. SALTZBURG, 416
CXI. WIESBADEN, 425
CXII. PARIS, 428
CXIII. FLORENCE, 431
CXIV. BOLOGNA, 435
CXV. VENICE, 439
CXVI. COMO, 442
CXVII. ZURICH, 444
CXVIII. WIESBADEN, 448
CXIX. HANOVER, 451
CXX. BERLIN, 453
CXXI. BRESLAU, 456
CXXII. VIENNA, 458
CXXIII. TRIESTE, 460
CXXIV. VENICE, 464
CXXV. LUZERNE, 467
CXXVI. BATHS OF EMS, 469
CXXVII. MARSEILLES, 472
CXXVIII. ALGIERS, 474
CXXIX. MEDEAH, 477
CXXX. CONSTANTINE, 480
CXXXI. TUNIS, 484
CXXXII. TRIPOLI, 488
CXXXIII. GRAND CAIRO, 491
CXXXIV. CONSTANTINOPLE, 495
CXXXV. SEBASTOPOL, 498
CXXXVI. YALTA, 502
CXXXVII. TIFLIS, 507
CXXXVIII. PIATIGORSE, 511
CXXXIX. STAVERPOOL, 515
CXL. TAGANROG, 518
CXLI. ODESSA, 521
CXLII. BADEN, 525
CXLIII. BATHS OF TÖPLITE, 528
CXLIV. MARIENBAD, 531
CXLV. COPENHAGEN, 533
CXLVI. SWINEMUNDE, 537
CXLVII. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-ODER, 540
CXLVIII. HAMBURG, 543
CXLIX. HANOVER, 546
CL. BERLIN, 549
CLI. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAINE, 552
CLII. FRANKFORT-ON-THE-MAINE, 555
CLIII. PARIS, 559
CLIV. TETUAN, 562
CLV. MOGADORE, 565
CLVI. BATHURST, 570
CLVII. SIERRA LEONE, 573
CLVIII. CAPE COAST CASTLE, 576
CLIX. WEST COAT OF AFRICA, 579
CLX. BONNY RIVER, 583
CLXI. MAYUMBA, 586
CLXII. ST. PAUL DE LOANDO, 589
CLXIII. PROVINCE OF ANGOLA, 592
CLXIV. ISLAND OF SAN MIGUEL, 596

TWENTY YEARS AROUND THE WORLD.

1839.

I.

HAVANA, _February 10, 1839_.

By the advice of my physicians my second sea voyage was by the ship Norma, which sailed from the port of New York on the 20th of January. After a passage of fourteen days, with alternate gales and calms, we sighted Abaco, and the Hole in the Wall. We crossed the Bahama Banks; the water was of a bright blue color, with a clay bottom, which was distinctly seen. The thermometer went up to 72°, so we threw, off our winter-garments, and put ourselves in summer apparel.

A cheerful sight was the old Moro Castle, at the entrance of the harbor. It has three hundred guns, and is built upon a rock. Opposite stands a new fort called the Punta, and three hundred yards from the Moro Castle is a gigantic work called the Cabana. These defences are on an immense scale, with heavy rock excavations, and are said to have cost eighteen millions of dollars. When the bill was presented to the Court of Madrid, the old King Ferdinand asked if they were made of silver. The passport system is onerous and rigorous here; but time and progress will produce a change.

The landing, or shipping-port, is a stout, well-planked wharf, of great length, sufficient for the landing of cargoes: vessels lie head on, and discharge and receive over their bows. Our ship anchored in the stream, and boats took our baggage to the Custom-house. We were struck by the novel sights on landing. A large number of negroes was employed in unloading ships, and transporting merchandize, singing the while their merry sailor songs. Mules with heavy saddles, and small trucks on two wheels, were waiting for our effects. Huge carts for heavy goods were drawn by oxen, with rings in their noses, and yokes resting on their horns. Next comes the Volante, or pleasure carriage, which is universally adopted, and, although odd-looking at first, it is extremely comfortable, and is adapted to the climate. Figure to yourself a pair of wheels from seven to eight feet high, and shafts eighteen feet long. Upon these shafts a chaise body suspended with leather-straps. At the extreme end of the shaft the horse or mule, with his braided tail tied up to a large Mameluke saddle. Upon that saddle a shiny, black negro, with leather leggings strapped up to his knees; shoes and spurs, and coat and hat of livery. The hacks, which are rather rusty, stand about the squares for customers; but the equipages of the nobility and wealthy citizens are really magnificent, and the sight of the fair sex, in full dress, on a gala-day when hundreds are seen on the Paseo, is one of the most pleasing and beautiful to be found in any country.

I have just witnessed a display of the kind; some three hundred Volantes were present with a band of music. The vehicles go up on one side of the Paseo and return by the other, driving through a paradise of garden. An accident occurred; the lancers on horseback were instantly on hand to preserve order. The police is numerous and efficient; the men carry spears, and a lantern in the night. The military force is large, and belongs to the regular troops from Old Spain.

The style of building strikes a stranger with surprise as he enters the city. The houses are generally of stone, one or two stories high, and are covered with fluted tiles, or flat roofs of cement. Many of the residences of the wealthy are commodious and magnificent. The building material is a yellow, calcareous stone, which is easily shaped by an axe to any form, and being porous it receives cement readily. The fronts of the houses are painted with gay colors, yellow, pink, or blue. They have low windows, with iron bars for shutters, and curtains supply the place of glass, which is yet almost unknown here. No chimneys are needed, as the cooking is mostly done with earthen furnaces.

Havana is well supplied with market buildings of a quadrangular form: the outer structure is for the butchers, and the interior for venders of fruits and vegetables. The fish-market is tastefully ornamented with marble and porcelain slab counters, and the various kinds of fish thereon have all the hues of the rainbow. The fish market is in the hands of a monopoly, who employ many vessels along the Florida coast for supplies.

A grand masquerade-charity ball has just taken place at the Tacon Theatre, outside the city walls, and it is computed that seven thousand tickets were sold. The great variety of costumes, within and without, representing all the characters that could be suggested to one’s mind, the multitude of the dances, and the different strains of music, the five tiers of boxes of open bronze-work, displaying the rich robes and dazzling gems of the lady spectators, gave it additional charms.

I have just returned from the plantation of a fellow passenger, and am much pleased with the rack or gait of my horse, which is peculiar to the island of Cuba. The road, which was rough, was of calcareous stone. The shell, which is easily discovered in the rock, can be cut in any shape; it hardens with age. The house which I visited was comfortable, and pleasantly situated, with negro-houses among groves of oranges, citron and lemon trees, and fields of sugar-cane in the background. The reception was a warm one, for the mistress of the place, an affectionate old lady, was delighted at the return of her son; I witnessed her kindness towards her negroes. The Bishop’s Garden gave me an opportunity of seeing tropical plants and fruits in their perfection. It seemed neglected, however, while the Tacon Garden is a splendid affair.

II.

MATANZAS, _March 1, 1839_.

This is a considerable shipping port. Large quantities of lumber are brought hither by New England vessels, which in return take cargoes of sugar, molasses, and coffee. I saw a drove of mules and horses with pack-saddles, fifty in number, all laden with these articles, coming to market. Twenty-eight of them were laden with four kegs, each containing five gallons of molasses, and were tied head and tail together. One man had charge of that number. In this warm climate they stop and wash or swim their animals in the streams to refresh them; the drivers drink the fresh milk from the cocoa. The number of game-cocks owned here attracted my attention; cock-fighting takes place frequently. I noticed, in passing an inclosure, an arena for practising, and stakes were driven for forty of them, to which they were attached by the leg; some are even valued as high as six ounces, or a hundred dollars; two negroes were cracking corn with their teeth to feed them, and others were sprinkling aguardiente or Cuba rum over their heads and bodies; it gives them a reddish color after the feathers are plucked out. If game, they fight until they die. In the pit they take them up and blow in their mouths, lick their heads, raise their wings, run their bills together, and then put them down to see who will conquer.

In the vicinity are found very extensive caves, inhabited by bats, which are well worth a visit. Myself and a fellow-traveller hired a Volante to visit a coffee estate on the banks of the little Canaimar river. The weather was warm; the rays of the sun were oppressive like one of our July days; it was dry and dusty. We met with droves of muzzled mules laden with products; we crossed the river in scow boats, drawn by a rope. The coffee-tree grows about three or five feet high, and is lopped to make the branches expand, otherwise it grows seven or eight feet in height. The blossom is white, the leaf resembles the laurel of our country, only larger; there is a fragrant but insipid flavor to the blossom; the berry is red, and tastes sweet. On opening it you discover two grains of coffee. It is gathered in baskets, and carried to the yard where they have large earthen floors with descents both ways to carry off the rain; here it remains until perfectly dry, then it passes through a machine which completes it. It is then put up in sacks for market. They commence picking about the 1st of November, and continue until they have finished, often as late as February. The tree lasts fifteen or twenty years, if well attended to.

The Canaimar is a beautiful stream, with high banks covered with trees, and is from fifty to eighty yards wide; it is navigable some fifteen or twenty miles, for schooners up to Barcadero. For pretty scenery it reminds me of the Hudson, but decidedly in miniature.

We saw several fine coffee plantations, and others exhausted, devoted to the production of sugar. Our Calesero with his droll costume wore his sword, which he flattered himself was a great protection after nightfall. The roads were rough, and little travelled by carriages; but it was amusing the way we rattled over the hills with three horses attached to our odd-looking vehicle. We have followed up our visits to sugar and coffee plantations in other directions. Some of the latter are most beautiful with avenues of palms, interspersed with orange and myrtle trees. One sugar estate of three hundred acres turned off three hundred hogsheads of sugar. The owner had one hundred and fifty negroes, one hundred of whom were working hands; we visited their cabins and the sugar-works. He had seventy yoke of oxen, thirty on the grinding mill; they work night and day, five pair at a time, cracking the cane with three large rollers. The juice is insipid but healthful; it soon becomes acid when exposed to the sun. It runs direct from the mill in reservoirs, and in the iron boilers with sides of brick-work. It is dipped from one pot to the other, and boiled until the guarappa or syrup passes into reservoirs or granulators, after which it is put into hogsheads, and stands over vats to allow the escape of the treacle or molasses, which is pumped up and forwarded to market. The crushed stalk is dried and used for fuel, when engines are in vogue as they now are. The cane may be used up entirely. In the cutting the cattle follow and consume the tops; the balance decays and enriches the soil. The negroes cut the cane systematically with long knives in the fields. The cane here springs up again without replanting, and lasts from five to seven years.

In the gardens were guava trees, from which the delicious jelly is made, and pomegranates, oranges, and other fruits. The most graceful tree is the palm: it grows straight to a great height, with rings from the root, and looks like a column of marble of greyish blue color until within fifteen feet of the top, when it lessens in size, and is of a bright green color, with an offshoot or thread that grows up like the winding-sheet of a candle, about four feet to the top, from which spread the branches, like an umbrella. From the green spot spring bunches of berries which are green, but ripen red, and are used by the negroes to feed their hogs. The mango, shaddocks, sweet oranges, and forbidden-fruit, are interesting to the stranger. We have just paid the sad rites to one of our Northern invalids; only four of us followed him to the grave. The funeral of a child three years old has just passed; this beautiful infant lies in a half coffin, with face and hands exposed, a wreath of flowers about its head, and a bouquet in its little hand. One half of the coffin is supported by four boys in fashionably cut garments, and bright coat-buttons; the other half is supported by other boys. The friends of the dead do not go to the grave. The manner of burial being so different from ours, one is struck with every peculiarity. Some distinguished person who died recently had ten negro bearers dressed in military apparel, red and grey livery trimmed with lace, with black chapeaux and feathers. Ten Volantes followed. The bodies are buried in trenches, with all their clothing on, which is cut before interment. They are put in the ground without the coffin, quick-lime is thrown upon them with a little earth; others are buried over them. When room is required, the ground is dug over, and the fragments are burned.

The convicts here are employed upon the public works, and in the streets, pounding stone and regulating the thoroughfares; they are guarded by soldiers, and wear chains on one side from the waist to the ankle. I recently accompanied a planter who wanted to add to his stock of negroes. A cargo of two hundred and eighty-five had just arrived from Africa. They were in the Barracoons, men, women, and children. I had some oranges, which I cut up and gave them; they did not know what they were at first, but soon found out, and flocked around me and drove me to the door, with their hands all up, clamoring for more. It was amusing to see the scampering and jubilee when the fruit was thrown among them. They were fond of snuff, tobacco, and pipes. The planter made a selection of twenty, at twenty-four ounces, or four hundred and eight dollars each, and they seemed happy to get out of the barracks.

III.

SOUTH-WEST PASS, BALIZE, _April 1, 1839_.

The steamer Tacon brought me down from Matanzas to Havana. The renowned Ravels were drawing immense houses at the Tacon theatre. I took the railway for Guines, a small town, towards the south side of the island, much resorted to by invalids. We made many excursions on horseback, visiting different cafetals and sugar plantations, passing through orange groves, the eye resting upon acres of pineapples. I attended high mass at the Cathedral in Havana, where rest the ashes of Columbus, which are said to have been brought from St. Domingo. Our passengers returning to the States have converted our brig into a sort of Noah’s ark; it has twenty poodle dogs, quantities of pigeons, doves, Guinea pigs, game cocks, etc., and about ninety thousand oranges on deck. No steamer offering, we were obliged to take this brig. We should have made the passage in five days, but a norther came on within twelve hours’ sail of the Balize, and we were among the Chandeleur Islands at one time without a chronometer, and the officers could not tell our course. The first appearance of two rival tug-boats, the Lion and Mohican, in the distance, running for us, was a grateful sight. We are now rapidly ascending the river, whose water is charged with alluvial deposit, and is very muddy. The low banks, covered with grass and cane-brakes, arrest the floating logs from the undermined forests of the upper rivers, brought down by the freshets; alligators are seen crawling upon them, and basking in the sun’s rays. Further up, we come in sight of sugar plantations, with the whitewashed huts of the negroes. The appearance of a high-pressure steamer, with hurricane deck, is very striking at first sight; and the eternal puff of the escaping steam, may be heard distinctly for miles. Towing on the Mississippi, against a current six miles per hour, requires enormous power. The shipping at New Orleans is immense, extending for six miles along the Levee, which is of a semicircular form, and gives New Orleans the name of the Crescent City. The cotton warehouses and presses are of gigantic size, to meet the demands of the trade. Many of the public buildings are substantial, and in good architectural taste. The St. Charles and St. Louis hotels are of a superior order, and are among the largest in the United States. The exhibition of merchandize on the levees, consisting of cotton, sugar, molasses, tobacco, lard, flour, grain, and all the products of the Western and Southern states bordering on the rivers, is immense, and connecting here from a hundred steamers with a fleet of shipping for most of the ports in the world, gives a faint idea of the trade of this commercial city.

A drive over the shell road, along the banks of the canal, to the Lake House, and the return by rail from Lake Pontchartrain--a peep at the French opera in the second municipality--a drive to Carrolton, the new and upper portion of the city--a walk over the battle-field below the city, where General Jackson defeated the British--will suffice for this visit, as I return again. I now take the steamer for the _new Republic of Texas_!

IV.

MOBILE, ALABAMA, _April 27, 1839_.

The steamship New York carried us to Galveston in fifty-six hours. The fine weather promised us a shorter passage, but our ship grounded for several hours at the south-west Mississippi pass. When we sighted the few masts in the distance from the harbor of Galveston, a gay wag pointed them out to a verdant passenger as the steeples of the city. Only a limited number of buildings are yet erected. A wrecked steamer on the beach with upper cabins answered the purposes of a hotel. Levees will be made for the protection of the city from inundation; the city lies on Galveston island at the foot of Galveston Bay, which situation, with an energetic and increasing population, will render it in time a place of great trade and commerce. A small high-pressure steamer took us up to the Capital of the Republic, Houston, named in honor of the late president and hero of San Jacinto.

We had a fair number of cabin passengers, and a goodly number in the steerage, migrating to the new settlements.

One of those amusing mock criminal cases which help to beguile the tedious hours at sea, came off on the charge of a slight indiscretion against a New Orleans merchant. Counsel in behalf of the state and defence of the prisoner was procured; the judge took his seat; the sheriff arrested the prisoner; witnesses were subpœnaed; special-pleading began, and the examination of defence before the jury, half of them ladies, being the entire number of our fair passengers, contributed not a little to the amusements, in which Finn, the renowned punster and comedian, took part. The jury retired to the ladies’ cabin, dropped the curtains upon the court, rendered a champagne verdict, which resulted in a similar sentence upon the judge, advocates, and sheriff, the consequence of which was no want of exhilarating material for the voyage.

A beautiful sail up the bay; a view of the battle-ground of San Jacinto; a description of the positions occupied by the Mexican forces of Santa Anna, and the Texans in hot pursuit; the perfect slaughter of the former; the finding of the Mexican leader up a tree, and many other details from an old Texan who was engaged in the combat, passed the time agreeably, and we were in the narrow Buffalo Bayou, the branches of the trees grazing our wheel-houses. The little town of Harrisburg, fifteen miles below Houston, was burnt by the Mexicans. It should have been the head of navigation, it was remarked, but the Allens founded the city as it now is, and built a capital and engaged the settlers to occupy it. There are some thirty frame houses being erected per month. I visited the log cabin still standing, occupied formerly by Sam Houston. Took a ride on the seven-mile prairie; visited General Hunt, Secretary of the Navy, President Lamar, and was presented to Sam Houston, Ex-President, at New Orleans, on my return to that city. The accommodations, of course, in a new country just opened, cannot be expected to equal those of old settled cities. Carriages are not yet introduced; stumps still stand in the streets. Time has scarcely permitted to make foundation walls, but the buildings are set up on blocks, giving the pigs and chickens free ingress underneath.

My luggage was taken on a wheelbarrow, and at the first hotel I stopped at I verdantly called for a single room; the landlord smiled, and said that he had only a single one, which was a fifty-bedded room, and all occupied. My curiosity induced me to see it. There were rows of bunks, not unlike coffins in size, a little raised from the floor. I then proceeded to another hotel, which was also full, the rush of emigrants, land-purchasers, and speculators, being great.

I found a private house, but did not ask for a single room; there were three apartments for three beds each, with two and three in a bed. My Mississippi companion and myself were obliged to double up; we could lie upon our backs and study astronomy through the roof, and in case of rain put our clothes under the bed.

Our single rough pine table was well covered with arms, which travellers use largely for safety and shooting. Deer are found in great abundance, consequently venison, as well as fish and oysters, in the vicinity of Galveston, is abundant.

After some few excursions I returned to New Orleans, much gratified with my trip, and the exhibition of American energy in adapting itself to the settlement of a new country.

I asked a Mississippi land speculator what he thought of Houston. He unhesitatingly replied: “It is the largest three-year-old I ever saw.”

The steamer Merchant brought me through Lake Pontchartrain, sighting Fort Pike in the pass to Lake Bourgne, passing the mouth of Pearl river and the Dauphin Island, into the Gulf of Mexico, and up Mobile Bay to the city. The shipping lies thirty miles below; light draught ships and brigs come up to the city; heavy vessels load by lighters; large numbers of steamers are at the wharves from the Upper Tombigbee and Alabama rivers. It is an agreeable city, with hospitable inhabitants, and an extensive cotton trade; many broad fine avenues and streets are studded with the Pride of India, a tree filling the air with fragrance.

My friends have driven me out to Spring Hill in the suburbs, with its pretty private residences, the race-course, Choctaw point, and other localities. The hotel is comfortable; the markets and restaurants are well supplied, and lunches at the saloons supply the inner man with game, Barataria Bay oysters, and all their accompaniments. The South prides itself upon its choice imported liquors, and the genuine leaf Havana cigars. The sabbath is well observed here; attendance at church is general. The negro population is well dressed and happy.

* * * * *

N. B. Some years since the writer visited Galveston, Houston, and many other portions of Texas in the interior, and was highly gratified at the great growth of the cities named, the style of brick dwellings which had replaced frame buildings, the march of civilization, and the general comfort. In the interim of time since his first visit he had seen the early settlement of California and Oregon, as well as the new states of Iowa, Minnesota, Missouri, Illinois, and watched the progress of American advancement.

V.

TRIP FROM ALABAMA THROUGH FLORIDA AND GEORGIA.

The steamer Champion brought us in nine hours to Pensacola, well known as a United States’ Naval Station. We took the steamer Leroy for Lagrange, with three passengers, passing through Santa Rosa sound; the island of the same name rose in the distance, by moonlight, like a walled city, with some verdure and shrub trees, and the beach of white sand appeared like snow; the main land, covered with live oak, has been purchased by Government, for ship building. We left Pensacola at five P.M. and arrived at Lagrange in time for breakfast, and took stage for Choctahatchie, Dead Lake, where we left the conveyance and went a mile and a half in small boats to connect with another stage coach. This Dead Lake is surrounded with cypress trees, and abounds with alligators; a huge fellow, with distended jaws, showed himself beside our little canoe; we fired a musket shot and he sank. We crossed the Choctahatchie, a rapid stream, in a small boat, walked up the hill to a barn, and found a stage to proceed. Magnolias of immense height were found in the everglades in abundance, and in full bloom. A day’s ride from Lagrange brought us to the village of Mariana; we stopped at Holmes’ Village, P. O., and dined by the road in a log-house, in a wilderness of pines; we could look through the sides and roof of this dwelling. The woman said she had nothing in the house for dinner, which was true: salt bacon, corn bread, and buttermilk, were the prominent articles. At Mariana, twenty-seven miles from the Chattahoochie, we found supper and the first signs of a town since we left Pensacola. Leaving Mariana, the stage had seven passengers inside and three outside, with heavy luggage; coming down Chipola hill, the equilibrium was almost lost; we were going over when the driver let the horses go to save an upset, and they ran away. A refractory horse has given us a good fright. We crossed the Apalachicola river in a flat, poled up the stream, and took the current to the opposite bank; negroes lay by a camp fire waiting for the boat. Walked a mile to Mount Vernon, and stopped at Scott’s new Arsenal and Magazine; the steamer coming in view, we heard the puff of steam fifteen miles. I took the steamer Commerce for Apalachicola; we had undertaken to haul a raft of timber, when we saw the Irvington coming. Come on, boys, says the Irvington. Don’t be alarmed, says the Capt. of the Commerce. Firemen all anxious, passengers hurried on board. Cut the hawser, cries the Capt.; now go it. The vibration of the boat was excessive; we could scarcely raise a cup to the lips at table; boilers and flues almost red hot, the upper deck grew so hot that my clothing in the trunk was heated through. The scenery is pretty, the trees and growth of underbrush and cane-brake, down to river bank of this serpentine river, are picturesque.

We beat our enemy, and he was obliged to round to, as a make-believe, for wood.

I found Apalachicola a small place, with some good brick stores; the shipping lies below, brigs and schooners only get over the bar. They are trying to make St. Joseph a rival, with a railway from Iola to the junction of the Chattahoochie and Flint rivers, but it is not probable that the river trade can be diverted from its natural channel. I visited cotton plantations to see the young plant growing, and the gins for dressing; saw the poisonous moccasin snakes, five feet long, and alligators in abundance. Visited Quincy, a county seat, in Florida; the stage had eleven passengers, nine inside, among the rest a gentleman’s black servant; in the night I found him fast asleep, quietly resting on my shoulder. I supped at Bainbridge, and tolerably well, and one man offered a Watumpka bill, to which the woman objected, and he said he could pay when he came along again. He left his card to the amusement of all concerned. We halted at a place in the piny woods, where the man had his wife and a dozen white-headed, flaxy children, dirty as pigs; he said he was from North Carolina, and could give us corn bread and molasses, fat bacon, and three cups of coffee, for the whole party.

At twelve at night coming to a station, I found a part of my baggage and valise missing; I put a negro on the track and went myself in search through the woods; detached one of the lead horses and sent another negro in hot pursuit. I heard or saw some wild animals in the brush, and hurried up and found the boys who had found my baggage by the road-side, where it had fallen. Arrived at Macon, on the Ocmulgee river; it is a pretty city, with several churches, a young ladies’ seminary, one of the largest in the Union, besides several banks. Rode from thence to Milledgeville, the capital of Georgia, thirty-six miles; a rough country, scenery different from that of Florida. A State Convention was being held to reduce the number of representatives in the Legislature. The public-houses were crowded. The Government House and States Prison are prominent buildings.

The heat and dust were overpowering. I took supper at Sparta at twelve at night, arrived at Warrenton at four A.M.; went to bed and slept for the first time in three days. I was rejoiced to find the first railroad since I left New Orleans; rode fifty-one miles to Augusta, on the Savannah river. The yellow nankeen cotton is produced in this section. They are now raising 20,000 bales of staple annually. The city has ten thousand population. There are many northern people among the residents; the markets, wharfs, public buildings, and society give evidence of thrift and progress. The Morus multicaulis speculation is now the rage. This reminds me of meeting a northern man in Matanzas, who proposes taking out plants to get the winter growth and profit by the advance of the cuttings. The bubble will soon burst. Hamburg, in South Carolina, lies on the opposite bank of the Savannah, connecting with a bridge, where are seen the fortifications of nullification days.

VI.

TRIP FROM AUGUSTA, GEORGIA, TO NEW YORK.

I left Augusta by the South Carolina Railroad for Charleston, stopping at Aiken, a dining station on the road, where a hurried dinner was taken, and the bell rung when the party was half through, which induced one of the number to snatch a roasted fowl, to the amusement of the passengers and chagrin of the landlord. The distance was one hundred and thirty-six miles, mostly in light soil and pine wood region. There were some good plantations. When in sight of the Four Mile House I recognised the spot which I had visited some years previous. The great oak trees were still standing as if clad in mourning, with the moss three or four feet in length hanging from the branches.

In the low humid regions of Texas, and upon the banks of rivers, are found large quantities of this material, which is dried and used for mattresses, cushions, etc., and is quite an article of commerce. My mind was carried back to my former retreat on Sullivan’s Island, upon which is situated Fort Moultrie, and which is the resort and residence of many who fly thither to enjoy the sea air, and to escape the fevers produced from the low banks of the Ashley and Cooper rivers, and the marshes in the neighborhood.

I tarried six days enjoying the hospitalities of numerous friends whom I had known there, and in Cuba. My health had suffered some from exposure, and I was happy to repose myself. The steamer Gov. Dudley took me to Wilmington, N.C., upon Cape Fear river.

The great quantity of saw-dust from the steam mills and bark from the tannery, filled up the low places. The trade of the place is in pitch, tar, and turpentine. I crossed over the river to look at the rice fields, which at will are flooded from the river. Gangs of negroes were engaged in hoeing and pulling out weeds.

Our landlord gave us the best the place afforded. But he was a wag, and had placed the sharpest-breasted turkey I had ever met with on the table. Standing at the head, he disarmed all complaint by saying: “Now, gentlemen, I wish to call your attention to this bird. He was kept for the races, and could outrun any turkey in all Wilmington.” A burst of laughter ensued, and all were delighted with the dinner. We proceeded from Wilmington to Waynesburg on the Neuse river, eighty miles, and were obliged to take stage over a corduroy road, the railway not being yet constructed within seventy miles of Abbeville.

Such a horrible jolting I had never experienced, except in the low grounds along the Bay of Quinte in Canada. Rails and logs were thrown across marshy soil with but little earth upon them, and from time to time one found himself with his hat over his eyes, striking the top of the stage. At three in the morning we found ourselves at the point where the railway was progressing. The little tavern had only one bed left. What was to be done? I had made application and secured it. We were all exhausted with the ride, and six passengers had equal claims for a portion.

The bed was taken off, placed upon the floor, and occupied by three. Two took the bed cords, with some of the covering, and I reconnoitred the house. I found a country doctor’s room with his pharmacy and some anatomical remains; as good luck would have it for once, his services had been required elsewhere, so the doctor’s room was occupied, and Morpheus’s subject lost sight of dry bones. Twenty miles by rail brought us to Weldon, and from thence to Petersburgh, Virginia, on the Appomatox river. Here I visited some friends whom I had formerly known at Tappahanock, on the Rappahannock river, when I first visited the Old Dominion.

* * * * *

The writer of these Letters, finding his health, which had improved from his last winter’s trip to Cuba, again suffering in a northern climate, left the cold weather behind him, and proceeded south, via Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Richmond, and thence to Charleston. He made the outside passage to Savannah by steamer, and thence proceeded by steamboats to Brunswick, in Georgia, passing through the Florida wilds to Tallahassee, at imminent risk from the Seminole Indians. From Tallahassee he proceeded to St. Joseph, and embarked for Mobile and New Orleans, which cities he had left the spring before. He revisited the island of Cuba during the winter, and returned in the spring to the Crescent City. He took steamer bound up the Red river to Natchitoches and Alexandria; returned and visited Natchez, Mississippi, a few days after the great tornado, which destroyed a large portion of the city under the hill, and did immense damage in the city on the bluff. Many lives were lost, and a fleet of flat-boats and steamers sunk. He then proceeded up the Mississippi to Memphis, Tennessee, and St. Louis, Missouri; from the latter place he embarked for Louisville, Kentucky, and Cincinnati. His next route was via Wheeling, Virginia, over the beautiful Cumberland pass of the Alleghany mountains to Hagerstown and Frederick, Maryland; thence to Baltimore; up to Philadelphia, and so home.

To avoid repetition, and inasmuch as the cities and countries of our Union are so generally known, and, not to tax the reader, he has avoided the recounting of the thousand incidents of travel which would require too much space in this limited work. Suffice it to say, he returned in improved health, with a superficial knowledge, at least, of the products and resources of our country.

1840.

VII.

A TRIP TO EUROPE.

_Dec. 7, 1840._

I left by the British Queen, in bad health, on Tuesday, upon two days’ notice, as I had intended to go to Santa Cruz. The weather was cool but pleasant, until Friday, which was stormy; it continued blowing a gale until Sunday, which was very rough and boisterous. I was very sea-sick, and was afraid of raising blood. We had a cold, disagreeable passage, and were on the ocean three Sundays; we reached Southampton on the twenty-first of December. The ship arrived at London on the twenty-third. Our coal was exhausted, and we burned up all the spare wood we could find to carry us to Southampton.

I was rejoiced to get ashore in a comfortable English hotel, with kind and attentive servants. I left for London the following day, and was struck with the style of the English farm-houses and cottages--stacks of grain--thatched roofs--hedge fences--the straight furrows in ploughing--draining of lands--the old style of brick buildings with pot chimneys, and the dense smoke from the bituminous coal.

Our captain had promised us to land at Plymouth, if could not work up to Cowes; the ship was out of trim, and short of water. A little tug-boat came alongside for passengers and luggage; a heavy sea was on, and it was difficult to get transferred. I took cold, and was fearful I could not proceed south, but soon improved.

On approaching London, it appeared as if a cloud of smoke enveloped it as from a great conflagration. I remained in London ten days, visiting all the great works of art and public buildings; St. Paul’s Church--four hundred steps to the cupola--occupying one square--forty years in building, and said to have cost seventy million dollars, our money--remarkable echo in dome, the closing of a door producing a report like the discharge of cannon. The statues of Lord Nelson and scores of others are contained therein. The tunnel under the Thames is one thousand one hundred and forty feet through; thirty-eight feet wide, for two carriage ways. Looked in at Drury Lane, Covent Garden, and Haymarket Theatre. Visited St. James’s Park, Waterloo Barracks, Regent’s Park, Houses of Lords and Commons, and Westminster Abbey. Made an excursion to Windsor Castle, Virginia Water, and drove through the extensive Park ground. Visited the West India Docks, with basins of immense extent, and massive stone wharfs, solid as rocks. Returned from Southwark by railway, three and one-half miles, upon arches over the tops of houses. Visited the armory rooms in the old Tower, and saw the crown jewels, of great value. The spot was pointed out where Lady Jane Grey and Anne Boleyn were beheaded. Was in the cell where Walter Raleigh was confined and wrote his history.

Newgate Prison and St. Giles’s were not neglected--the latter dirty and filthy to a degree--low buildings, black as night--streets ten to twelve feet wide--carts blocking up the way--no living animal inside except pigs--shavings for fuel--men cutting up old wood in little bundles to sell to the poor wretches. Decent-looking men hurried rapidly through. I was almost afraid some wretch would sally out upon me--signs in the windows “Shaving half-penny--hair-cutting one penny”--“Travellers’ lodgings, and rooms for single persons”--rooms like so many hog-sties--looked in at Goldsmiths’ Hall, and saw statues of Gog and Magog. The sights of London would demand a volume itself for description.

I left London for Dover by the mail coach, which is comfortable and fast when railways are not spoken of. Rode alone to Gravesend, twenty miles; it is much resorted to by the Londoners in summer. Passed through Stroud, Rochester, and Chatham; the three towns almost join; the latter has dockyards on the river Mersey. Passed Canterbury, and many other towns, and came in sight of the chalk hills of Dover. At every change the coachman presents himself, “I leave you here, sir,” which means a fee. The servants in hotels, if not taxed in the bill, array themselves in line at the door, “Remember the chambermaid, sir.” “Boots, sir, if you please.” “I am the waiter, sir, if you will be so kind.” The guineas vanish rapidly in England. A little iron mail steamer carried us over the British Channel in three hours to Calais in France. Sea so rough, we could not land for some hours. Passengers very sick. When the tide rose we run in harbor. At next day’s low tide I saw brigs, schooners, and steamers floundering in the mud all aground; good substantial docks. Walled city; population, ten thousand inside, seven or eight thousand outside; garrisoned by a regiment of soldiery; luggage taken to custom-house, and examined closely. Visited Notre Dame Church; no pews; chairs all around upon the paved floor, with tops to lean upon; payment is exacted for use of them. The streets are narrow; the women wear caps, few bonnets, and perform all the menial service of men. Coming from America and England it strikes one’s attention. Left with the diligence in the coupé or front part, with glass windows, and a good look-out; pleasant ride to Boulogne. We were overtaken by the phenomena of a violent storm, thunder and lightning, hail and snow. We passed through Montreuil and Abbeville, prominent towns. The roads were in bad order, and it took thirty-three hours for the one hundred and sixty miles to Paris. To cross some of the hills we were obliged to put on nine horses, and look like a caravan. As soon as I got settled in the French capital I found constant occupation in sight-seeing, all being new to me. The remains of Napoleon, brought back from the island of St. Helena, by order of Louis Philippe, have just been deposited with extraordinary pomp at the Hotel des Invalides. I am not prepared to describe the sights of Paris in detail on this occasion. My health had suffered from cold, and I found it necessary to push off south. My passport being prepared at the Prefecture de Police, and all the necessary visés of ministers from the different countries which I may visit, obtained, I took the lumbering diligence en route for Marseilles, a distance of some five hundred miles. We reached Chalon on the Saône, where I had hoped to get a steamer, but the freshet prevented our passing the bridges. Proceeded to Lyons, the great manufacturing city of France, and rejoiced to get in quarters with a good fire and comfortable bed. The ravages of the flood and inundation of the country were distressing to behold. Left Lyons, in a little steamer, for Avignon upon the Rhone, not much wider than a canal boat, but very long in proportion, say one hundred and fifty feet. It was cold and blustering, blowing a hard gale. We descended rapidly. The steamer had no wheel, but four men at the rudder; it was hard to keep her straight. Passed the bridges and stone arches over the river with lightning speed, the inundation and current being tremendous. Struck an arch, and came near being dashed to pieces; all hands frightened; the engineer said that he had been on the river for years, but never had seen such a blow. Dust flew so, we could scarcely see the shore; clouds of it covered rigging and deck. Passed Vienne, Valence, Tournon, and arrived at St. Esprit. Great doubt expressed if we could pass through the arches of the stone bridge, but it was done safely and splendidly. There being no sleeping accommodation, we went ashore to get the best lodgings we could. We found an old castle of a hotel; arched entrance, stone steps worn by time, and replaced in part with wood; heavy, massive doors and windows; large chimney and fire-places; grape-vines and green wood for fuel; violent wind, and cold. In the morning looked around the ancient town, around the fort, and crossed the narrow stone bridge, with solid, heavy abutments, the work of the monks in the middle ages. The steamer started at two P.M., much to our relief, for our wants were better supplied in her than ashore. The gale was over, and we arrived at Avignon, and thence proceeded to Aix and Marseilles, where I was obliged to rest myself for a few days. A funeral service next door attracted my attention. First came the Catholic clergy, in full robes; next sisters of charity and little girls; then charity boys; the bearers, all sturdy, clod-hoofed fellows, covered with coarse cloth, and sacks over their heads, with holes only for the eyes; candles and torches burning in their hands.

Passing through the south of France, I was struck with the immense resources of the country in the vine. Millions of acres are cultivated with it as the products of the cereals are in our own country. The refuse and dried branches are sold for fuel and lighting fires. The beauty of the Rhone, with its old towers and castles, high peaks and mountain scenery, amphitheatred walls, and hanging gardens, covered with the vine, is remarkable. The limestone country approaching Marseilles produces the olive and fig in great abundance. The houses in southern France generally have tile or porcelain floors, and are very cold at this season. At Marseilles, I saw the column of Napoleon; it is at the head of the promenade, with a fine view of the harbor.

A great variety of character and costume is found in this seaport, and all the different dialects are spoken; Arabs, Italians, Greeks, Germans, and Swiss abound; and it is quite amusing, to stroll upon the quays.

I looked about the city, and saw all there was of interest. I stopped at the Hotel d’Orient, recently opened, and was glad to get where comfort was to be found. The floors are all of hexagonal tile, glazed or polished, and slippery; the stairs of the same, except the projecting part of wood. Good table-d’hôte; a dozen dishes of meat and vegetables come on in succession, all hot. The cuisine in the south of France will not compare with that of Paris. Dessert of native fruits, prunes, olives, pears, apples, raisins, figs. Visited the theatre; large house, but poorly supported; no style in fitting up; the outside presents a fine front, but miserable inside. Opera-glasses in general use. On entering, you see women with stands for coats, hats, sticks, etc., and a table filled with opera-glasses for hire, all of which gives a small emolument to these honest people. The civility and politeness of the French are proverbial: a glove or a handkerchief left on your seat is sure to be respected, and your right of place maintained. In comedy the French excel. With two American gentlemen, with whom I crossed the Atlantic, and whom I now met here, I dined at the house of our Consul, Mr. Fitch, who entertained us handsomely.

The steamer Maria Antoinette takes me to Genoa.

1841.

VIII.

NAPLES, _February 22, 1841_.

After landing at Marseilles I proceeded by steamer to Genoa. On approaching the city from the sea it shows to great advantage. Its numerous and stately edifices resemble the seats of a vast amphitheatre placed on the declivity of the Apennines. It is termed the City of Palaces, and deservedly so, as its palaces are very numerous, and composed of beautiful marble, splendidly adorned with noble entrances and elegant staircases, with floors of marble. Among the most prominent sights of the city are the palaces and churches. The cathedral of St. Lorenzo is an ancient Gothic structure, built of marble, and paved with the same material. The sacristy contains an emerald vase, found at Cesarea when the Genoese captured that town, and they chose it in preference to any other tribute offered. (A.D. 1101.) This vase is said to have been presented by the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, and deposited by him in the temple at Jerusalem. Napoleon carried it to Paris when he conquered the Genoese, but it was afterwards returned. I was shown the mortal remains of St. John the Baptist, brought from Lycia and placed in the cathedral, inclosed in a silver sarcophagus. The plate of beautiful agate and gold which held the head of the saint, when presented to Herod, is also exhibited. The cross of gold worn by Constantine was also shown. It is two feet long, one foot wide, and weighs almost ten pounds, and is filled with precious stones, and contains a small fragment of the _true cross_. I visited the palace of the king of Sardinia, which is a large and magnificent edifice, and contains a large collection of paintings, among the most remarkable of which is one representing Mary Magdalen at the feet of our Saviour in the house of the Pharisee, by Paul Veronese; also one of Titian’s, representing Christ bearing his cross. I visited several other palaces where are to be seen beautiful collections of paintings. The rooms are gorgeous. One saloon in the palazzo Serra is lined with the most costly materials, white marble, large mirrors, etc., with ornaments of precious stones and the richest gilding; in short, it combines taste with splendor in its gorgeous decorations, and is considered equal to any single saloon in Europe.

From Genoa I, with two travelling companions, took private carriage to Pisa, a distance of one hundred and thirty miles, passing through several interesting towns, visiting the marble mines of Carrara, where are eighty-five workshops, preparing statuary and various kinds of work for foreign markets.

The scenery on this route is enchanting. Genoa is left in the distance as you wind along the coast of the Mediterranean, at the base of the Apennines. Villages are continually presenting themselves; the walled hills and mountains are filled with olives and the vine, and cultivated to their tops. The valleys, beautified with gardens, produce an abundance of the orange, lemon, &c. On arriving at Pisa, which is situated on the banks of the Arno, fourteen miles from Leghorn, I visited all the objects worthy of notice. One of the most remarkable is the Leaning Tower. It is of a circular form, one hundred and ninety feet high, and declines thirteen feet from perpendicular. This beautiful structure was commenced in the year 1174, and consists of eight stories, adorned with two hundred and seven columns of granite and marble, many of which have evidently been taken from other buildings. The stairs leading up are easy of ascent, and the view extensive.

The Campo Santo, or ancient burial ground, a beautiful edifice, is a vast rectangle, surrounded by sixty-two light and elegant Gothic arcades of the Greco-Arabic school, built of white marble, and paved with the same. It is founded on a part of the earth brought from Mount Calvary, by two warriors from the Holy Land, and was commenced in the year 1200. The interior walls are decorated with ancient fresco-paintings, statues, and monuments of the best artists, bearing testimony of the most distinguished characters.

From Pisa I went to Leghorn, a fine commercial city, with a population of sixty thousand, and took steamer for this city.