Chapter C: W. V (1)

LXI.

LADRONE ISLANDS, _July 21, 1851_.

The cry of “Land Ho” to the traveller on a sea voyage is always refreshing, but particularly so after having been some weeks out of sight of terra firma. Our ship is deserving of the name of clipper when she has good breezes, and when full rigged is perfectly white with canvass, carrying from thirty-five to forty sails.

We have been running with the trades almost in a direct route from the Sandwich Islands, some three thousand five hundred miles, and have never furled a sail since our departure until yesterday, when appearances indicated one of the much dreaded typhoons, which are so much feared at this season, and which appear in the region of the islands, and extend through the China Sea. The strongest and swiftest ships are unable to resist them; they have their spars carried away, and even their masts taken out, and are not unfrequently lost, as was the case with the clipper-ship Rainbow. The heavens at mid-day were only comparable to the blackness of night, and the whole horizon seemed to be circumscribed; it appeared as if our bowsprit would soon enter into the tar-colored circle ahead of us. The orders of officers were given and responded to by an active crew of sixteen sailors. The orders, “Brail the spanker,” “Haul up the mainsail,” “Reef the foresail,” and so on, were rapidly given until she could be got in safe trim. It proved to be more a deluge of rain than a gale of wind, with terrific peals of thunder, as if all the artillery of heaven was in commotion; the lightning played beautifully and awfully about us.

It was one of those magnificent sights which must be witnessed to be appreciated. If we had not shortened sail we should have run out of it, but prudence dictated the greatest caution, particularly in this latitude. The sailors, as the rain abated, amused themselves like a parcel of ducks, playing and bathing in the water upon deck, before the scuppers could carry off the copious supply.

Our ship is spacious, with fine promenade, quarter and main decks unencumbered. Our cabin is large and handsomely finished, and furnished with accommodations for thirty-two passengers, but there being only two of us we are not elbowed, and find our supplies bountiful.

My companion from San Francisco, is bound to Canton only. I had once made a passage with him from Charleston to New York, and we subsequently met in Havana, and now chance throws us again together under pleasant circumstances. We occupy our time like most others on shipboard, to relieve monotony, by the usual labor of eating, drinking, and considerable sleeping; of course, also in writing and reading, the latter being the great resource, and my neighbor, being fond of music, whiles away many a weary hour upon his guitar and accordeon.

Our Anniversary of the glorious Fourth, we ushered in by discharging our six-shooters, and ringing the steward’s bell, and afterwards firing at a mark, to commemorate the day. Dined patriotically, with sentiments to friends and home, heard an occasional salute from Jack, of the forecastle, carrying the mind back to the scenes of former days. Thus passed the day, and at ten at night, while pacing the quarter-deck by moonlight, under a press of canvas, with a nine-knot breeze, the trade-wind dead aft and sailing on even keel, the ocean calm, and now entitled to its Pacific name, I could not help reflecting upon the events of home, and found, at that moment, judging from our position of latitude and longitude, you were then returning from a Church Oration, or listening to the mid-day salute. Sunday the 6th, was observed as the Sabbath on shipboard, but had been lost in the calculation of nautical time, as we had passed the one hundred and eightieth degree of west longitude, or the world’s centre, being the antipodes of Greenwich. We then counted it as ship’s time, Monday 7th, and commenced in east longitude. On the ninth day out from Honolulu, we lost sight of the bark Isabella Hine, with which vessel I went to the islands from St. Francisco; we left in company, and kept in view during all this time, which was a little remarkable, showing the equality of sailing of these two clippers--the average runs being from one hundred and sixty to two hundred miles per day, with moderate breezes. The weather has been very hot during the entire passage, the thermometer now standing eighty-six degrees, with an occasional refreshing shower, favorable for fresh supplies, as the old stock of water is repugnant to smell.

As we have had no weather to admit of fishing, such calms not being desirable, our curiosity has not been excited with the sights of whales, sharks, sea lions, or porpoises, of which we had an abundance while going down to the islands; we conclude therefore that we have got away from their cruising grounds. There is nothing to call one’s attention, except the water-spouts, which we are disposed to give a wide berth. The moonlight nights are delightful, and the most pleasant part of the twenty-four hours; they incline one to pace the deck, and give him plenty of time to reflect upon the many changes and scenes in life.

Having no opportunity to forward this letter, I shall not close it till our arrival at Hong Kong or Macao.

* * * * *

MACAO, _Aug. 4, 1851_.

Having an opportunity of sending the annexed letter immediately on entering port, I can now announce our arrival, although in the latter part of our voyage we were becalmed and had to contend with the head-winds, after the regular trades had left us, on passing the Bashee Islands in the China sea, where we had reason to expect the south-west trades, or monsoons, but on the contrary had to contend with heavy tide ripples or counter currents, running at the rate of two and a half miles per hour. I assure you it was disheartening to make only twenty miles per day, within three hundred miles of our haven, while liable to meet a stray pirate, or a frightful typhoon, not to mention the sun’s rays, which were overpowering; but our for fortunes changed after a few days’ reverse, a strong south-wester having brought us in sight of the Celestials with their long tails, who are surrounding us in their sharp, lightly constructed boats, with sails of matting, and are proffering their services for pilotage, supplies of fish, fruits, &c. I have not time to add further, but shall write you from Canton, seventy-five miles up the river.

LXII.

CANTON, CHINA, _Aug. 20, 1851_.

We arrived at Whampoa, where the foreign shipping lies, some fourteen miles below this city, and where we cast anchor. We were immediately surrounded by a multitude of boatmen, and amongst the rest a host of washerwomen, neatly dressed, with flowing pantaloons and a loose vest which falls over the hips, and is made of blue or black cotton or silk. They crowd around with commendations in their hands, and solicit the preference at the extremely low rate of one dollar and a half per hundred. You can judge of my surprise, who had paid five dollars for the single dozen in California, which of itself was the strongest evidence of the great disparity of population. The hair of the married women is put up in an artistic manner, and the young girls wear the long queue braided, but their heads are not shaved like those of the men. The following day I came up to this city through a perfect fleet of junks, and other boats, with their teeming population, the study of whose habits and modes of life would occupy much time. It is computed that there are eighty thousand boats, with a floating population of four hundred thousand souls, upon the waters of the Canton River.

I was particularly struck with the appearance of the large junks with their painted eyes at the bow, as the Chinese say, “_Suppose no have eyes, no can see_.” The Mandarin War Boats carry fifty oarsmen, and their broad-brimmed conical bamboo hats answer as a shield from the sun and spears. The peculiar open stern which incloses the rudder and place for ingress and egress, and the sudden manner in which they turn the boats, surprised me; the neatness displayed on board the small ferry and passenger boats, where families are born, live, and die upon their native element, is without example. They are covered by permanent and also sliding roofs of bamboo matting, and propelled mostly by women with a scull-oar on a pivot at the stern. Some are nicely fitted up and gilded, for parties of pleasure, and are really fine.

The foreign population of Canton is made up of about fifty persons of different nations, mostly occupying a fine range of buildings, called Factories, fronting a beautiful garden of about two acres square, with high walls at the ends, and extending to the river; it is filled with every variety of tropical trees, plants, and flowers, and affords a delightful lounge upon Chinese settees, or a fine promenade upon its cemented walks. In the centre is a neat Episcopal Chapel, and the flags of three nations, ours being one of the number, are flying from elevated flag-staffs. Adjoining the grounds is an extended boat-house which contains the finest collection of race-boats of the most delicate construction in the world, for the regattas of the English and American residents, and for daily exercise, as it is not safe to penetrate into the country; there are no drives, and in fact horses are rarely seen or used, the dense population and low price of labor with the use of the buffalo, supplying their places. The latter animal is nearly amphibious, and gets a portion of his supplies in low grounds unfit for cultivation; in fact the Chinese, being the most laborious, economical, and indefatigable people perhaps in the world, cultivate every inch of ground, as far as I can perceive in my excursions up and down the river, and along the paddy or rice fields. I arrived opportunely for the Festival of the Dead, but it reminded me more of the Fourth of July at home, from the constant discharge of crackers and fireworks. The flower boats, which are eighty to one hundred feet in length, with cabins beautifully decorated, and literally overhung and festooned with large, beautiful, vari-colored lanterns at night in long processions, with the beating of gongs, and the playing of instruments, in sound not unlike the Scotch bagpipe, produced a most singular effect. The offerings, which are made to the deceased friends and burned in the streets, are made to represent clothes, money, and other articles; and the consumption of prepared folded paper of different colors, some of gold and silver gilt, which are placed together by the masses and then fired, is not a slight tax upon the people. An exhibition of this kind took place at the angle of our house, and our coolies and servants were among the group, after which copper coins, called cash, one thousand two hundred to the dollar, were thrown out to the beggars who were scrambling among the embers. I am indebted to the hospitalities of Wm. Buckler, Esq., to whom I had letters, there being no hotel deserving of the name, and have received many invitations and civilities at the hands of other parties. The servants here are excellent, and anticipate your every want.

I must describe mine to you. His face, as also the skin around his eyes and ears, and his head to the crown, is well shaved; his long, black hair falls plaited nearly to his ankles; his white frock or long vest with sleeves, flows over his flowing pants of white grass linen; he has white leggings attached to his turned up and embroidered shoes, and tied at the knee, and they are perfect patterns of cleanliness, although droll-looking objects.

The usual hour for tiffin, or lunch, is three in the afternoon, and dinner is at seven in the evening. In accepting invitations out, custom demands and admits in this hot climate, a full dress of white, the round jacket included, and your servant to accompany you.

Canton contains probably a million of inhabitants. Ingress cannot be obtained within the walls. I effected an entrance for a short distance, but was soon expelled. The town outside is probably more interesting than within, as the streets run parallel with the walls, and the houses are built close up against them. They are ordinarily one or two stories high, the latter class forming a hollow square inside, with galleries surrounded by merchandise, and arranged for the display of goods. The signboards run up and down, are gaudily painted in various colors in Chinese characters, with tasteful lanterns at the entrance, and in the narrow streets have a gay appearance.

The merchants, mechanics, and artisans, in their many occupations, can hardly be described on paper. The latter are well clad in the costume of the country, and mostly in black, and carry fans or umbrellas. The laborers at this season have the upper part of the body exposed; they carry their burdens suspended from the extreme end of a pliable round shoulderpole, and cry out for space as they thread the dense throng in the narrow passages. At certain hours at night, the gates of the different quarters are closed, and the district is liable for any robbery committed within it. If the culprit is found, his head is taken off at the execution ground, in the open space within the heart of the town outside the walls. Their punishments are most severe, some victims being chopped in pieces, and some flayed alive. The ground was red with gore as I passed through that quarter, from the recent execution of fifteen men for treason; a revolt has lately taken place in one of the provinces, and the rebels succeeded in destroying five hundred of the celestial troops, with the exception of ten who escaped the ambuscade.

The object is to change the present dynasty. Since the late opium war and treaty with the English, with the privileges of trading, many advantages have been gained, and gradually the country will be penetrated, and we shall know more of this peculiar and interesting people, who boast of the highest civilization, and consider all outsiders as barbarians. The maxims of Confucius, who is held in great veneration, teach affection, and obedience towards parents, respect for elder brothers, and esteem on their part for younger brothers. The people are Boodhists in religion, and the doors and entrances of all the shops have figures and offerings suspended, and incense tapers burning night and morning, to keep off the evil spirits.

Temples and Joss Houses, where are placed the figures of their gods, are seen frequently along the river bank, and the great Temple of Honan on the opposite side of the river is extensive and very curious. On entering the gate from the river side you pass under a line of shade trees, and enter three temples in succession, with colossal figures of Joss, seven in number, of giant form, in sitting postures, and in size reminding me of the figures Gog and Magog, in London. The architecture of the buildings is strikingly Chinese, with figures of lions and dragons at the angles. The priests have their heads clean shaved, and the beating of the kettle-drums of huge size, and the sound of their instruments at hours of worship, are almost deafening. The contents of some of the temples remind one of a museum, from the great variety of armor and figures. The grounds attached to the temple of Honan contain a pond for the cultivation of the sacred lotus, or water lily, and granite monuments wherein repose the ashes of the priests, who are buried in a small stone structure, which is inclosed on three sides, within shady bamboo trees; the blackened and smoky chimney betokened recent use. Eight noble fat hogs are within the inclosure of the temple, and are represented to the faithful as immortal; in the event of accident, however, others are in reserve.

Opium is freely used by the people, and the trade in it has increased to a frightful extent, although contraband, the officials being engaged in the traffic, so that the consumption has increased to twenty-five millions of dollars per annum. This, in a population of three hundred millions, is considered not to be a great excess, but it tells a sad story on the constitution of an habitual smoker. The use of tea is of course general, and spirit is distilled from rice. The Houqua gardens belonging to the great merchant deceased, some few miles above the city, are in good taste, with fish-ponds, artificial cascades and grottoes, and a vast number of fruit trees, plants, and flowers, peculiar to the climate.

LXIII.

HONG KONG, CHINA, _Aug. 20, 1851_.

This island, the name of which translated is Fragrant Springs (it is certainly supplied with running water, though barren and hilly), is twenty-one miles in circumference, and is situated on the north side of the bay which communicates with the Canton river, to which it is the key. It was ceded in treaty to the English, and is a great acquisition, but has cost them five or six millions in erecting buildings for troops, fortifications, and general improvements, in addition to the large expenditures of English capitalists. It is decidedly an English town, although their numbers are not great therein, though it contains a regiment of one thousand troops. Its being a free port facilitates contraband trade; it has a large Chinese population, and in all contains probably twenty thousand inhabitants. Macao, on the opposite side of the bay, about thirty miles distant, occupied for centuries by the Portuguese, is an agreeable place of residence, but it has, through bad management, lost its trade, and its harbor is quite deserted. It is now used as a place of summer resort, but rents have declined, and the people are poor. The heat of Hong Kong and Canton is very oppressive at this season of the year; we had the thermometer in the latter city from ninety-eight to one hundred for several days in succession, with but little difference in the night. Humboldt says that La Guayra, in South America, is the hottest place in the world, but I suffered more from the heat in Canton than there.

Before leaving Hong Kong, I made an excursion to the Whampoa Pagoda, which is nine stories high, of an octagonal form, and has in the distance a most imposing effect. The duck boats by the river bank attracted my attention; the ducks are driven ashore in large numbers to feed, and at the sound of a bell they rush back to their quarters, from the circumstance that the last one who enters gets whipped for being dilatory. The Chinese have a temple here, also, well fitted up; and last evening it was magnificently lighted by their fanciful lanterns, and a festival called Sing Song came off, with the beating of gongs, kettle drums, and other instruments, and a supply of confectionery and other eatables, inside and outside the building, upon stands, for sale.

There were immense figures of men and animals, made of painted pasteboard strengthened by wires, which were taken out and burned as offerings to their gods. We could expose ourselves with perfect safety among the people, and examine minutely the idols of the altars, feeling a sense of security on British soil which I could not feel in and about Canton, under like circumstances.

I was quartered in Canton in the most desirable part for sights, and some of a most amusing character were constantly seen. One day I counted from my window eighteen stout barbers, who carried on their backs a three-legged stool with straps attached, and in the bottom a chest of lances; they were engaged on, or waiting for, customers in the open court. The operation of dressing the long tail and scraping the pate, in addition to the practice of cleaning the eye and ear, occupies some time, for all of which they get about six cash, or half a cent each. Mandarins occasionally passed in sedan chairs, with suites of attendants, and the hurry of the crowd was observed to allow their mandarinships a free passage. A large wedding procession attracted my attention from the great quantity of presents therein. I counted fifty coolies with loaded hand-barrows, filled with fruit, flowers, confectioneries, cakes, nuts, robes, &c., in rich profusion, preceding the bride, who was conducted to the house of the groom veiled, in a sedan chair, as the tiny feet of the ladies are seldom seen in the streets. They are affianced early by their parents without ever having seen their lovers; and when their intended husbands gaze upon them, if acceptable, they are supported by women across a pan of coals into the house.

They are sometimes rejected, but damages are expected. This leads to unhappy marriages and polygamy, which is recognised by the law, the children having legitimate rights. The river-women all go bare-footed in warm weather, and their feet are of natural size.

The upper classes still continue the bandaging of the feet as a mark of rank, which is eulogized in Chinese poetry. This barbarous practice consists in turning under the small toes of the infant and bandaging them, leaving only the great toe exposed, which system in course of time raises the instep and throws the heel backwards, giving them more equilibrium; the iron shoe is not used, but the wrappers are changed daily. Among the poorest classes, female children are much neglected, and frequent instances of infanticide occur, woman being considered born to drudgery, and not meriting an education.

I came down by steamer, the only passenger, and in the evening found fire-arms brought up and laid on the companion-way; I naturally asked the cause, and was informed there was nearly a million of bullion on board for shipment, and that an attempt had recently been made by a Chinese crew who had concerted a plan with some fifteen forward deck passengers, by previous understanding, for the taking of the shipment of specie, and to cut off the officers while at table, and run the boat outside of Boca Tigris. The plot, however, was discovered in time to prevent it.

Not unfrequently the piratical Chinese attack the junks, notwithstanding all their crews go armed with spears and lances. Now they employ all Englishmen on board of the river boats which contain treasure. We have had news of the loss of the steamer Pasha, which was run down by the steamer Erie, in the Straits of Malacca, with the loss of several lives, and a large quantity of opium. It was from carelessness, as the steamers had exchanged signals about midnight, but notwithstanding, the Erie at full speed struck the Pasha with her port bow, a little slanting, a few feet abaft the mainmast, and she sank in five minutes, without having time to lower her boats.

This has produced great excitement here, both steamers belonging to the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Co. I think now I can embark with safety to-morrow on board the steamer Malta for Singapore, as more care is always exercised after an accident.

LXIV.

SINGAPORE, _Sept. 1, 1851_.

Having arrived at Singapore, I will resume my narrative. We had rather a rough passage down, in the face of a south-west monsoon in the China Sea, for a distance of about one thousand four hundred miles. The Malta is an iron steamer of thirteen hundred tons burden, well disciplined and manned by Lascars, or Indians, from Bombay, Chinese as deck hands, and Seedes, or blacks from the African coast as stokers, or firemen, the heat being too great for Europeans.

It was curious to see the variety of costume of the deck hands as they left port; it was Sunday at the time, and they did not doff the costume of the holiday until we left the harbor. I noticed more particularly the gay-colored turbans, white frocks and fancy belts of the Lascars, and the long tails of the Chinese, while many of their female friends were in boats around the ship, keeping up a constant discharge from bunches of firecrackers. We were only seven passengers, English gentlemen and officers of the army, myself the only American. The system adopted throughout by the steam navigation company is to charge enormous prices, more than double the rates of fare of our Atlantic steamers; for instance, from Hong Kong to this place, the passage, including exchange, costs one hundred and seventy dollars, the passage to Calcutta being upwards of four hundred dollars. They furnish a profusion of everything available in the way of supplies, rendering the consumption of liquors, wines, and soda, greater than in the West India line, where each individual signs a card for the steward as he gives his order, and settles weekly, or at the expiration of the voyage.

The English officers and gentlemen are particular in dressing for dinner; considerable etiquette is observed, and they generally occupy much time at table. I am frequently called upon to combat error and prejudice against my country in a variety of ways. The minds of some have been poisoned by such works as those of Mrs. Trollope, and others.

I was told that I was the first overland California traveller. I could answer the interrogations about lynch law, rapid eating or bolting of food at hotels and on board of steamers; and in the latter charges, I could only admit, American-like, that we were a young but fast people, and that we could not enjoy the luxurious ease of old countries, as time did not permit; that pioneer life on the borders cautioned the sovereign people where laws did not exist, to rid themselves of robbers and assassins.

Throughout the East the Punkah is made use of while the guests are at meals; it is a long frame from three and a half to four feet in depth, covered with white cloth, with a fringe running the whole length of the table, and suspended on hinges from the ceiling, to which is attached a cord passing over a pulley, and put in motion by an invisible hand behind a screen, or passing through the wall into the adjoining room. We have three Lascar boys in costume, who are seated on the opposite side of the dining saloon, keeping up a constant circulation of air during meals.

I have been under the surgeon’s hands since I embarked, with a slight attack of Hong Kong fever; consequently I could not enjoy my passage, and was disgusted with the sight of eatables and drinkables. I am now quite recovered, and a drive about the environs of this city in a palanquin has had a good effect. These palanquins are small carriages with forward and back seats, adapted for two persons, and on low wheels, drawn by small Sumatra ponies full of spirit. The drivers, or rather runners, are Malabars from Madras, of a dark ebony color. The costume of my man is a white scarf bound round the head, loose white pants coming to his knees, and a red sash about his loins, so that his limbs are perfectly free, and he runs beside the horse at the top of his speed, holding one rein and the trace at the same time for safety and support. These men will run to the end of the island, sixteen miles, if occasion requires. You not unfrequently see persons galloping on horseback, and the man running along to take the reins when the rider dismounts.

Singapore, near the Straits of Malacca, is a small city on a small island, well built by the English. It is a free port, and large numbers of vessels from all parts visit it for purposes of traffic.

Great numbers of Chinese, say as many as thirty thousand, have migrated to this point, and can be seen in every kind of pursuit; they monopolize almost every species of labor, and being more vigorous than the others, can work cheaper at the various mechanical branches. The greatest variety of costume and language is found here, congregating from all the East and all the islands, Singapore being in the high-road from east to west.

I shall proceed to Penang upon Prince of Wales Island, by steamer, and thence to the island of Ceylon, on the other side of the bay of Bengal, where I shall wait for the steamer from Suez, on her way up to Calcutta, and as Ceylon is represented as being a beautiful island, and I shall be there some two weeks, you may expect to hear from me.

LXV.

KANDY, ISLAND OF CEYLON, _Sept. 16, 1851_.

I find myself now one hundred and forty-four miles from Point de Galle, the place where I left the steamer on my route from Penang to Singapore. Galle is a small fortified town which was first occupied by the Portuguese, taken afterwards by the Dutch, and finally acquired by the English, who are now in full and complete possession of this large island, extending from 6° to 10° N. Lat., from the Tropic of Cancer, at the west entrance of the Bay of Bengal opposite the Coromandel coast. It is about two-thirds the size of Ireland, and once contained a large population, but at present only one and a half million. From Point de Galle I proceeded to Colombo, the chief commercial mart, distant by land seventy-two miles, winding along through almost uninterrupted cocoa-nut groves, for some sixty miles, with long lines of thatched cabins, villages at intervals, and the most peculiar and primitive population in many respects I have ever met with. The natives along the coast are copper-colored, with fine features and slender forms; they wear long hair, falling half down their backs when loose and male and female wear two shell combs, one over the crown, and the other of great height to make the coiffure behind; it is difficult at first to distinguish the sexes among the young. The cocoa-nut tree is the chief support; they pay some attention to fishing, however, in the oddest vessels that ever floated, consisting in many instances of simple “dug-outs,” with an outrigger of bent boughs, which are lashed to the side of the vessel, and to the end is attached a pointed log, floating on the surface, and if the canvas is carrying the bark over, they balance it by sitting on the outrigger, sailing with great rapidity.

The harvest of the cocoa is now at hand. The milk is refreshing, and quenches thirst; the fruit is not only eaten, but large quantities of oil are made from it for use and exportation. The bark is rotted in pits of water, and bruised, then the fibres are pulled and made into cordage and rope of different kinds. The trees stand from six to fifteen feet apart, and are from fifty to eighty feet in height; large use is made of the liquid that exudes from the off-shoots near the top of the tree, which is distilled into arrack, and the natives may be seen like ourang-outangs, moving from the tops of the trees on the cordage made from the fibre to aid in climbing, while lower down are the earthen vessels in which the juice is collected. After passing through the cocoa-nut forests the cinnamon plantations present themselves, within a range of eight to ten miles of Colombo, and are mostly owned by foreigners.

One of the vices to which the natives are mostly addicted is the excessive use of the betel, which is a composition of the betel-leaf, the areka-nut, and chanam or luire, made from the muscle-shell, to which is sometimes added tobacco; it not only has a stimulating effect, but causes the lips, teeth, and inside of the mouth to appear blood-red, and tends in time to blacken the teeth, which is considered by some a mark of beauty. The stranger, when he first finds himself among a group of dark, ebony Kandians, and copper-colored Cingalese, with a sprinkling of Malabars in the primitive state, and in the costume of our first parents, with their mouths full of betel, imagines he has fallen among demons; at least I did, though I soon became accustomed to the sight.

The old kingdom of Kandy successfully resisted the Dutch and Portuguese, and for a long time the English, as from their fastnesses in the mountains, without roads to facilitate the enemy, the natives were long enabled to keep possession of the interior, after their sea-ports were occupied, and until they finally succumbed to the English. It lies seventy-two miles from Colombo, and fourteen hundred and sixty-seven feet above the level of the sea, and is characterized by the grandeur of the mountain scenery, and its wooded hills and luxuriant vegetation. The climate is very pleasant, its average temperature being 74°. The approach to this place is full of interest and novelty.

You find the paddy or rice fields in the valleys cultivated by the natives, who subsist mostly upon rice, made into curry, adding a sauce composed of cocoa, pepper, ginger, and coriander seed. Most of them are Boodhists, and touch no animal food, it being contrary to their religion to take life. They are often seen with almost naked skins, and hatless heads, their hair tied up in a bunch behind or falling over their shoulders, following black, uncouth, and sluggish buffaloes, which drag a rude wooden plough through the muddy field, inundated from the mountain streams.

Since the English have occupied the country, the colonial government has opened good roads, and much attention has been given to the planting of coffee, which is the chief source of profit, and enables it to place its troops in different parts of the island. An attempt at rebellion in this the most warlike province, two years since, after a considerable massacre, was soon suppressed. The road to Colombo is now much travelled by two-wheeled carts with high covered tops of cocoa-nut plaited branches, drawn by diminutive black cattle, about three or four feet high, with short horns, looking not unlike large calves, but tough and strong. Travelling Bandys are frequently seen; they are about the size of a good dog cart, with a small bullock in the shafts, and a cord running through his nose and over his head, to the sides of which a pair of lines are attached; two or three persons sit inside with their knees drawn up to the chin. The cabins by the road-side are in low and sheltered positions; they are furnished with two or three stools, a few plaited mats, earthen water-jars, a rice mortar, and some few culinary articles. Such of the women as are not engaged in weeding and reaping in the fields busy themselves in preparing betel, cooking curry, or in attending to their children. In approaching Colombo, as also this place, appearances change, the difference of caste, of which they were very particular under the old regime, being still seen.

The Kandians, despising the effeminate combs of the low-country people, wear a gay-colored handkerchief tied around the head, leaving the top exposed; they wear a white or fancy colored cloth of double breadth wrapped around the loins, while Mormons or Mussulmans with turbans, and Hindoos with painted faces, and also Malabars and other races, make up the picturesque masquerade. The Rhodias, or outcasts, a sort of Gipsies, are not permitted to wear any garment other than a sense of propriety suggests. The better caste of women appear here with heads uncovered, a long cloth of single breadth wrapped around the loins and falling to the ankles, and a portion thrown over the left shoulder. They wear silver, crystal, and brass bangles or bracelets, and flat ear-rings about the size of a quarter dollar, and the thickness of a child’s tin whistle; the holes of the ears are cut and distended by weights while young, to receive their flat rings; they also wear gold clasps in the top of the ear, which gives them a strange appearance, particularly with the addition of rings in the nose and on the toes. Umbrellas and dried branches of the tallipot tree are much in use to prevent the action of the sun’s rays. This is the residence of Governor Anderson, whose houses and grounds are quite pretty. There are some fifty foreigners, inclusive of ladies, as civilians, in addition to a regiment of troops, partly Europeans and partly Malays.

From Singapore we passed up the Straits of Malacca to Penang, on Prince of Wales Island, where we coaled and remained one day, which gave an opportunity for a ride to see the town, and then proceeded to Ceylon, making the distance of some fourteen hundred miles within eight days to Point de Galle, where I left the steamer on my way north to Calcutta, while she proceeded to Suez.

LXVI.

KANDY, ISLAND OF CEYLON, _Sept. 20, 1851_.

I am surprised to find such remains of civilization among a people who once had a dense population, and were somewhat advanced in the arts, as their relics testify, but who had fallen to the darkest period of the middle ages. The palace of the king, the hall of audience, with its elaborately-carved wooden columns, the hexagonal tower two stories high, and the chief Boodhist temple of the island, formerly under royal patronage, present a front of some six hundred feet of ground, with a wall and moat with drawbridge, supplied with water from a beautiful artificial lake, with a long line of parapet with triangular centres whereon to place lamps during the illuminations, and when the king addressed the people from the balcony overhanging the canal, and witnessed the religious processions with elephants which are annually continued.

These buildings are now all occupied for government purposes, except the temple of Boodh. On its archways and walls are sculptured hideous figures of dragons, and images of gods and devils; the paintings are rude, and bear a mixed resemblance to those of China and Egypt. The present powder-house is in a small building in the centre of the lake, which was a great resort for the king, while the harem-building on its banks is the hospital for sick soldiers.

We have just had a festival day, and I have occupied some time among the Boodhists. Their daily hours of worship are from six to eight in the morning, and the same time in the evening, and on this occasion the noise of the silver tom-toms, or kettle-drums, and the harsh sound of as many instruments resembling the Scotch bagpipe, with their discordant sounds, were almost deafening. One of the sanctums of the temple, which is ascended by a small flight of steps, has two immense pairs of elephant tusks, also the carved and painted figures of devils, to guard the entrance, and the room is about twelve feet square, hung with gold brocade, somewhat rusty. Upon a raised platform, inclosed by railings, and hourly unlocked, is seen a figure not unlike a huge bell, thirty-four and a half feet high, and nine and a half feet in circumference. It is in three pieces, which are joined, and which contain within each other seven smaller caskets; the smallest is supposed by the people to contain the tooth of their god Boodh.

The outer casket, or figure, is ornamented with rich gold chains and gems; the most remarkable is the figure of a gold bird, suspended by massive chains, beset with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. This is considered by the natives the most valuable acquisition in the world. Another of the sanctums contains the figures of gods, of gold and silver gilt, and of colossal size; the entrance is guarded by lions, the altars are covered by sweet smelling sacred flowers, which the devotees of all classes and sexes make as offerings before prostrating themselves and retiring in succession, and which the priests, with shaved heads, in yellow robes, receive. The people came loaded from the country with supplies suspended at the two ends of poles, borne upon the naked shoulder--the usual manner of carrying burdens; and at twelve (noon), the priests partook of a repast. It reminded me of a vegetable and fruit market, with heaps of rice, cocoas, pineapples, and prepared betel, to the use of which the priests are addicted, besides a variety of presents. As I stood alone among these half-clad heathen, who stared at me with surprise, I accosted a boy whose dress indicated Christian discipline, and who, speaking English, was able to give me much information, having been educated by a Protestant missionary.

I saw one marriage party in the country, a few days since; they marry young, and ordinarily in the presence of a witness, and according to caste; where they are of any rank, the parents arrange the matter. The girl in this instance carried presents to the house of the groom, when both parties sat around a pail of paddy and ate with their hands, exchanging balls of rice and cocoa-nut milk, with presents of clothes and jewels. The order of things is reversed here, for it is quite common for women to have two husbands, who seem to live happily together; they think it polite to do so, besides being less expensive; while in the event of the death of either husband, the family is provided for. Boodh came from the east, consequently in life they lie in that direction, but in death they turn the body; the higher castes here burn the corpse, the lower bury it in shallow graves. The funeral pile of the former is a layer of cocoa-nut shells, a layer of husks of the same, then a layer of wood; the nearest relative fires the heap in presence of a priest, and then returns home. Strips of young cocoa-nut stalks split are put up to mark the locality, which is visited after seven days; stones are erected to mark the spot, and a devil called “Sohou-Yaka” is appointed to the care of the burial grounds; at night, the natives will not approach these places, fearing malignant influences. The Boodhists have a great variety of devils, and have the greatest fear of evil spirits, some of which preside over the cocoa-nut, toddy and other trees. The favorite devil of the Kandians is called Gaveleyaka. He takes care of the children, cattle, and grounds, and the people feed him well with rice and curry, to keep him in good temper, otherwise he gets vexed, and they are attacked by the misfortunes against which they strive to propitiate him.

The other morning, at an early hour, in the country, I heard music, and saw lights beaming in the wood. It was, I found, a devil-dance. Some one having fallen sick, it was attributed to witchcraft, and a devil-priest was called to cure him. They had made a house of bushes and put the sick man in it, and had commenced dancing at eight o’clock at night, and the priest was just concluding, and performing a charm of some sort. Taking the leaves of a certain tree, they make up several dishes, and put rice on top with a lighted match, that the surrounding devils may inhale the odor; the priest then says another charm, and commands all other devils to “vamose.” He then says they have “put out,” and they throw everything in the bushes and leave them there, and he gets well paid for his trouble.

This is a remarkable country for elephants; the government employs them for heavy work on the roads; the immense carts and wagons are drawn by them, and the rollers for flattening the earth are made in proportion to their strength. I visited the stables and saw them on the road, but none have crossed my track, though they are still very numerous in the jungle, and sometimes very destructive to the plantations. I was informed that eleven were taken from this region and shipped to New York not long since, and presuming that you are familiar with the manner in which they were caught, I will not attempt a description. We are subject here to a land leech, which during wet weather is very troublesome, and makes leggings necessary for protection in the grass and woods. A gentleman travelling in our company found the blood flowing freely, not having provided himself with leggings; the natives have remedies against the bite. Ceylon is famous for the variety of rare and precious stones found in Galle and Colombo, which are a source of considerable traffic with vendors. The pearl fishery of the coast was formerly very productive, but of late years it is of little value; the cause is supposed to be over-fishing the original stock of oysters when nearly exhausted.

LXVII.

CALCUTTA, INDIA, _Oct. 8, 1851_.

I left Ceylon by the steamer Hindostan, on her way from Suez, with the overland mail, having about forty passengers, mostly from England. I now find myself in the so-styled city of palaces, upon the banks of the Hoogley, one of the many branches of the Ganges, and about one hundred and forty miles from the Sand Heads of hazardous navigation, while the jungle, on its lower banks, is haunted with the famous Bengal tiger, a terror to the shipwrecked mariner. Strong indications of a heavier storm than we had already encountered, two days below the entrance, induced our captain to turn back and run south, which was most unusual and unwarrantable, with a well-found steamer of fourteen hundred tons burden, and caused a delay of thirty-six hours, proving an error of judgment.

This city, the capital of the Bengal Presidency, is said to contain from five to six hundred thousand inhabitants, the foreign population not exceeding one thousand, besides the troops. The public buildings of the East India Company, inclusive of the Governor’s palace, and private residences of the employees of government, are well constructed, and discover a good deal of taste in their erection and site. The course or esplanade, and general drives along the river banks to Garden Reach (the out of town residences), are extensive and beautiful, and display more luxurious vehicles, and finer horses with outriders, and bearers in costume, than can be found for the same population anywhere in the world. The evening six o’clock drive before dinner being the greatest means of enjoyment in this hot climate, every sacrifice is made on the part of all classes to sport their equipages. I arrived here just after the commencement of the annual Hindoo festival called the _Doorgah Poojah_, during which all business is suspended. The heat is most oppressive, and no white man of any means is seen walking in the streets during the day, but palanquins are in general use. They are not unlike small houses with sliding doors on each side; they contain a mattress to lie upon, covered with matting, and sofa pillows of light material upon which to recline the head, and are supported on the shoulders of four Hindoo bearers, whose black shining skins, reeking with perspiration, denote the fatigue they endure. It is astonishing how fast they get over the surface; they are to be found in all public places and anxious for employment. It is a luxurious mode of travel, and long journeys are performed by Dawk, so called, with relays of men, but to me it is a painful mode of conveyance, and scarcely fast enough for an American. The Punkah here is indispensable; in the large hotel where I am staying, and which equals in size some of our large New York hotels, all the rooms are furnished with them, suspended from the ceiling, and necessity obliges each occupant to employ a punkah driver, who by means of his cord and pulley in the passage, keeps up a constant circulation of air. The great diversity of caste among the Hindoos, makes it necessary that housekeepers should employ a multitude of servants. The punkah driver being inferior, cannot be employed as bearer or body-servant, and he in turn will not wait at table. They must be employed as grooms, coachmen, footmen, cooks, water-carriers, washerwomen, and an infinite number of occupations. In dining with an official in the East India Company’s service, of large appointment, who had been a fellow passenger, and who had a large retinue of servants, he informed me that he required fifty for his establishment. Their wages are low and they furnish their own supplies, which are mostly rice and curry, as they disdain the food of the Christians. The Mussulmans, of which I have one, are not so tenacious, and turn their attention to different kinds of work. The expenses of life here are enormous, exceeding those of all other oriental cities. They grow out of the luxurious extravagance of the East India Company’s servants, through its extensive patronage, and the officers of the Queen’s troops, who not only exhaust their liberal salaries but are heavily in debt.

The native portion of the city, which extends for miles, exhibits a striking contrast to the palaces of the European quarter. The bazaars are worthy of being seen, but having visited those of Constantinople and Grand Cairo, they were no novelty to me. The other evening I attended the “nautches,” a species of ball or entertainment given by the native princes some three miles distant from the hotel; driving my buggy through immense masses of the populace, with the continual cries of my servant and footman to clear the track, I made my way slowly, coming in contact with a variety of vehicles in the darkness and confusion. At last I emerged from this chaos of equipages, and managed to get up to the extreme end of the lane to the Sohha Bazaar, where my vision was dazzled with the immense number of torches. The illuminations of the princes were intended to out-rival each other, and were got up with a good deal of fanciful display in oriental style. On pressing among the crowd through the spacious arena of the building amid the display of tinsel and torchlight, I found a large assembly of mixed nations and great variety of costume. The interior was covered with matting and chairs, with divans around the wall for the multitude. The Rajah was very polite, offering his divan with refreshments, and ordered the “nautch” or dancing girls before us to perform their different evolutions, which delight the natives, but to a European are anything but chaste or graceful. They were loaded with ornaments in their ears and noses, and on their necks, arms, wrists, and ankles; their voices were put upon a nasal half key, which enabled them to keep it up much longer.

The Hindoos burn their dead, but the funeral pile is not desecrated as formerly with widows of deceased husbands. In the upper part of the city is found a hollow square on the river bank, enclosed by three high walls, the water-side being open; a large gateway receives the remains of all Hindoos whose friends can afford to furnish the wood for burning. I saw them congregated thither and throwing, according to custom, small broken sticks upon the burning bodies. It was a revolting and disgusting sight to witness the burning bodies, particularly when fuel enough is not provided for their destruction, in which cases they are devoured by hundreds of carrion birds, like the adjutant and vulture. Very many are thrown into the river, and not unfrequently you meet them in passing up and down, though that method of disposing of them is contrary to law. We have just had the great annual Tumasha, and the worship paid to the goddess Kallee, by immersion. I suppose there must have been one hundred shrines mounted on platforms and supported on men’s shoulders, representing the goddess in tinsel of gold and silver, surrounded by artificial flowers, with her six arms, and a variety of other figures upon the pedestal. The procession of votaries to consign this inanimate but adored goddess to the holy waters of the Ganges, consisted of thousands of men, women, and children, with bands of music; the tops of houses, terraces, and balconies were filled with human beings. The different priests of the goddess came from different parts of the city, and congregated at the strand, where this rash tide of humanity despatched their deity on her cloudy voyage in the muddy waters of the sacred stream.