Chapter VIII: Section II

_Voyages of Ohthere to the White Sea and the Baltic, in the Ninth Century._[1]

Some of the Norwegian chieftains, who were dissatisfied with the usurpation of supreme authority by Harold, took refuge in England, where Alfred had recently settled many of the vanquished Danes and Nordmen in the northern part of his dominions, which had been almost entirely depopulated and laid waste, by their long-continued and destructive ravages. Among these was one Ohthere, who had made himself famous by his voyages to unknown parts of the north, and who was invited to court by Alfred, to give an account of the discoveries and observations he had made during his unusual expeditions. This person had been a chief of some note in his own country, and dwelt at a place which he called Halgoland, supposed by some to have been in Numadalen, while others say in Nordland, the most northerly p province of Norway proper. In the succeeding paragraph, he is said to have dwelt opposite to the _West Sea,_ and as Alfred only uses the word sea to denote a confined expanse or narrow channel, while he calls the ocean Garsecg, it seems highly probable, that, by the West Sea, the _west ford_ was intended,--a channel or strait which divides the Luffoden islands from the coast of Nordland, which would clearly place the residence of Ohthere in this northern province. The account which he gave of his voyages to his royal patron, is as follows.

Ohthere told his lord King Alfred, that lie lived to the north of all the Nordmen or Norwegians; and that he dwelt in that land to the northward, opposite to the west sea; and that all the land to the north of that sea is waste and uninhabited except in a few places, to which the Finans[2] or Fins repair in winter for hunting and fowling, and for fishing in the summer. Being desirous to ascertain how far this country extended towards the north, and whether there were any inhabitants beyond these wastes, he proceeded by sea due north from his own habitation, leaving the desert land all the way on the starboard or right-hand, and the wide sea on the larboard or left-hand of his course. After three days sail, he was as far north as the whale-hunters ever go[3]; and then proceeded in his course due north for other three days, when he found the land, instead of stretching due north, as hitherto[4], to trend from thence towards the east. Whether the sea there lies within the land, he knew not[5], as he only waited for a west wind, and then sailed near that land eastwards, as far as he could, in four days; as he found the direction of the coast then to change to due south, he waited for a north wind, and then sailed due south as far as be could in five days.

In this land he found a large river, at the mouth of which he lay to, as he could not proceed much farther, on account of the inhabitants being hostile. All the land on one side of this river was inhabited, and tolerably well cultivated, but he had not met with any inhabitants till now, since he left his own country; the whole land on his right being a desert, and without inhabitants, except the fishers, fowlers, and hunters, before-mentioned, who were all Fins; and the open sea lay on his left hand during his whole voyage. The Beormas [6], indeed, had well peopled their country, for which reason he did not venture to enter upon it; and the land of the Terfenna [7], which he had passed hitherto, was all a desert, with the exception of the hunters and fishers already mentioned.

The Beormas told him many particulars about their land, and of the neighbouring countries; but he could not rely on their accounts, as he had no opportunity of seeing with his own eyes, but it seemed to him that the Beormas and Fins spoke the same language [8]. Ohthere stated, that his motive for this expedition, besides some little curiosity to explore these countries, which were unknown to his countrymen, was principally in pursuit of horse-whales [9], which are valuable, because their tusks are excellent ivory, some of which he brought to the king, and because their hides serve for making into ropes for ships. This species of the whale is much smaller than the other kind, being seldom more than seven ells in length; while the other species is often forty-eight ells long, and sometimes even fifty. In this country was the best whale-fishing that Ohthere had ever seen, the whales being so numerous, that he was one of six who killed threescore in three days[10].

Ohthere was a very rich man in those things which are considered as valuable in his country, and possessed, at the time when he came to the king, six hundred tame deer, none of which he had bought; besides which, he had six decoy deer, which are much in request among the Fins, as by means of them, they are enabled to catch wild deer. Yet, though one of the richest men in these parts, he had only twenty head of cattle, twenty sheep, and twenty swine; and what little land he had in tillage was ploughed by horses. The principal wealth of the Norman chiefs in that country consisted in tribute exacted from the Fins; being paid in skins of wild beasts, feathers, whalebone, cables and ropes for ships, made from the hides of whales or seals. Every one pays in proportion to his substance: the wealthiest paying the skins of fifteen martins, five rein-deer skins, and one bear-skin, a coat or cloak made of bear-skin or otters skins, and two cables or ship ropes of sixty ells long each, one of which is made of whale hide, and the other from the skins of seals.

According to the description given to the king by Ohthere, Northmanna-land, or Norway, is very long and narrow, all the land which is fit for pasture or tillage being on the seacoast, which is very rocky in some places. To the east of this, and parallel to the cultivated land, there are wild and huge mountains and moors, which are inhabited by the Fins. The cultivated land is broadest in the south[11], where it is sixty miles broad, and in some places more; about the middle of the country, it is perhaps thirty miles broad, or somewhat more; and where it is narrowest in the north, it is hardly more than three miles from the sea to the moors. In some places, the moors are so extensive that a man can hardly travel across them in a fortnight, and in other places perhaps in six days.

Opposite to the south part of this country is Sueoland[12], or Sweden, on the other side of the moors, and opposite to its northern part is Cwenland. The Cwens sometimes pass the moors and mountains to invade and plunder the country of the Normans; who likewise sometimes retaliate, by crossing over to spoil their land. In these moors, there are some very large _meres_ or lakes of fresh water, and the Cwenas[13] sometimes carry their small light ships over land into these lakes, and employ them to facilitate their depredations on the Nordmen. Ohthere says, that the shire or district which he inhabited is called Halgoland, and that there were no inhabitants beyond him to the north. There is likewise a port in the southern land, which is called Sciringes-heal[14], which no one could reach in a month's sailing, even with a fair wind, at least if he lay to at night. During this voyage, the navigator must sail near the land, or make a coasting voyage along the coast of Norway towards the south, having _Iraland_[15], and the islands which are between that country and Norway, on his right hand; for this country continues all the way on the left hand of the navigator, from Halgoland to Sciringes-heal. As he proceeds again to the northward, a great sea to the south of Sciringes-heal runs up into this land, and that sea is so wide, that a person cannot see across it. Gotland[16] is opposite on the other side, or right-hand; and afterwards the sea of Sillende[17] lies many miles up in that country.

Ohthere farther says, that he sailed in five days from Sciringes-heal to that port which is called Haethum [18], which lies between Winedum, Seaxun, and Anglen, and makes part of Dene. When he sailed to this place from Sciringes-heal, Dene, or Denmark, was on his left, and on his right was a wide sea for three days; as were also on his right, two days before he came to Haethum, Gotland, Sillende, and many other islands, which were inhabited by the Angles before they came to Britain; and during these two days, the islands belonging to Denmark were on his left hand.

[1] Anglo-Saxon Version of Orosius, by Alfred the Great, translated by
Daines Barrington, p. 9.--Langebeck, Script. Dan. II. 106-118.--
Forster, Voy. and Disc. in the North, p. 53.

[2] Ohthere here calls the inhabitants of the desert Fins, and it would
appear that the Laplanders are actually Fins, or Finlanders; the name
of Laps or Laplanders being of modern origin, and the Danes and
Norwegians still call this country Finmark.--Forst

[3] In former translations of Alfred, this passage is rendered as follows:
"He was within three days sail of being as far north as the
whale-hunters ever go." This expression is vague and ambiguous, and
rather means that the residence from whence he set out was within
three days sail, &c.; whereas the next member of the same sentence
distinctly indicates a preceding three days sail, as in the adopted
translation.--E.

[4] This is not quite accurate, as the coast of Norway, in the course of
Ohthere, stretches N.N.E. He was now arrived at the North Cape, whence
the coast towards the White Sea trends E. and by N.--E.

[5] This doubt, of whether the sea lies within the land or not, probably
refers to the numerous inlets or fiords along the whole coast of
Norway and Finmark, and may mean, that he did not examine whether the
land might not be parcelled out into innumerable islands.--E.

[6] The Beormas are the Biarmians or Permians of the northern writers; and
Perm or Permia is still mentioned among the numerous titles of the
emperors of Russia.--Forat.

[7] The Terfennas are mentioned as different from the Scrite-fennas. These
were distinguished by Guido, the geographer of Ravenna, in the seventh
century, into Rerefinni and Scritifinni. The latter lived entirely
by hunting, and wore snow-shoes in winter, called Schrit. The former
subsisted on their herds of rein-deer, and perhaps ought to have been
therefore called Rene-finni. The name in the text ought perhaps to
have been Rhane-fenna, as he tells us they had rein-deer, and employed
decoy deer to catch the wild. Perhaps Fer-fenna, from their
travelling in sledges; from farra, to travel in a carriage.--Forst.

[8] It is highly probable, from this remark, in which Ohthere could not be
mistaken, as it will appear in the sequel that he must have been
perfectly well acquainted with the Fins, that the Biarmians were a
branch of the great Finnish stock. The principal difference seems to
have been, that the Fins continued to be wandering hunters and
herdsmen, while the Beormas or Biarmians had advanced to the state of
fixed cultivators of the soil. They had likewise an idol called
Jomala, which is still the name of one of the deities of the
Finlanders.--Forst.

[9] The morse is here named horse-whale by king Alfred, with infinitely
greater propriety than the appellation of sea-horse, which long
prevailed in our language. The tusks of this animal are still
considered as excellent ivory, and are peculiarly valuable for the
construction of false teeth; and leather made from the hide is still
used in Russia for coach-harness, but stretches more when wet than any
other leather.--Forst.

[10] It would appear, from the vast number killed, that this successful
fishing must refer to the morse or horse-whale, not to the ordinary
large whale.--E.

[11] In the original, the broad and comparatively fertile part of Norway
is said to be in the _east_: the correction adopted in the text
is obvious and necessary.--E.

[12] In former translations, this passage is: "opposite to this land,
_to_ the south, is Sueoland." The alteration in the text removes
the ambiguity--E.

[13] Cwenland and the Cwenas appear to refer to Lapmark, and its
inhabitants, the Finlanders.--Forst.

[14] See Sect. iii. p. 12, in which this place is supposed by Mr J. R.
Forster to have been where Stockholm now is.

[15] Iraland obviously here means Scotland, with the Faro, Shetland, and
Orkney islands.--E.

[16] This is plainly the isle of Gothland.--E.

[17] Apparently the Baltic proper is here called the sea of Sillende, and
may have been named from the isle of Zeeland. Yet in this passage it
seems to refer to the gulf of Bothnia, as running far up into the
country.--E.

[18] See Sect. iii. p. 14, in which Forster endeavours to fix this place at
Aarhuus in Jutland.