Chapter XI: Section IV (1)

_Containing observations on the_ Spanish America _in general, and
the remarks I made while I was confined in_ Peru.

CHAP. I.

About the middle of _March 1720_, when _Shelvocke_ sent _Hatley_ and the rest of us to seek our fortunes in the lighter, calld the _Mercury_, he himself in the _Speedwel_ went to plunder the village of _Payta_, which was just under our lee, and where we might easily have joind him, had he imparted his design to us: however we had not cruised long in sight of _Cape Blanco_, when we took a small bark with a good parcel of chocolate and flower. There was an elderly gentlewoman aboard, and a thin old fryer, whom we kept two or three days; and after taking out what we wanted, we discharged the bark and them together.

Soon after this we took the pink which _Shelvocke_ calls the rich prize; She had no jealousy of our being an enemy, but kept her way to the southward, till seeing the _Mercury_ standing towards her she began to suspect us. About noon she puts the helm hard a weather, and crowded all the sail she could afore the wind: and being in her ballast this was the best of her sailing, which also proved the greatest advantage they could give us; for had she held her wind, we in our flat bottom could have had no share in her. About ten at night, with rowing and hard sailing, we got within shot of the chase and brought her to, being pretty near the shore: they were about seventy persons aboard, thirty of which were _Nigros_. _Hatley_, I remember, upon going aboard left me and _Pressick_ with four more hands in the _Mercury_; where we continued two or three days, till a heavy shower of rain (hardly ever known upon that coast, and which _Shelvocke_ takes notice of p. 185) spoild all our bread and other dry provision; it was then time for us to get aboard the prize, which we did; sending three hands afterwards to take care of the _Mercury_.

We stood off and on the said cape seven or eight days expecting to meet with the _Speedwel_; and there we set ashore the _Spanish_ captain, the _padre_, and some gentlemen passengers. At last we spyd a sail about five leagues distance, plying to windward: not doubting it was the _Speedwel_ or _Success_, we stood towards her, while she kept edging towards us. About ten in the morning we were got near enough to discover it was a warlike ship, as she proved; tho’ neither of those we wishd for. The master of our prize had before informd us, that he met the _Brilliant_ man of war cruising for our privatiers; which till now we intirely disregarded.

Hereupon captain _Hatley_ advising with me what to do we concluded that some advantage might be made of the information given us by the _Spaniard_: that as the _Brilliant_ had spoke so lately with the pink, probably there would not be many questions asked now. Upon which _Hatley_ and I drest our selves like _Spaniards_, and hoisted _Spanish_ colours: we confined our prisoners in the great cabin, suffering none of them but the _Indians_ and _Nigros_ to appear upon deck, that the pink might look as she did before; in which contrivance we had succeded, but for the obstinacy of _John Sprake_, whom we could not keep off the deck.

As the Admiral came up he fired a gun to leeward: hereupon we lowerd our topsails, making easy sail till we got along side of him. Their first question was, if we had heard any thing of the _English_ privatier? we answerd, No. The next was, how it happend we were got no farther in our way to _Lima_? We answerd, by reason of the _currents_. They askd us two or three more questions, which we still answerd in _Spanish_. They seemd thoroughly satisfyd; and were just getting their tacks aboard in order to leave us, when the said _Sprake_ and two more of our men appeard on the main deck: a _Frenchman_ aboard the admiral looking out at the mast-head spyd their long trowsers, by which knowing them to be _English_ he cryd out, _par Dieu Monsieur, ils sont Anglois_, they are _Englishmen_. Upon this they immediately fired a broad side into us with round and partridge shot; by one of which _Hatley_ was slightly wounded in the head.

After we had surrenderd they took all the _English_ aboard them, and put a couple of their own officers into the prize. The admiral then bore down to the _Mercury_ about two leagues to leeward, and tho’ they fired at least twenty five guns into her, the three men escaped unhurt; and the vessel tho’ full of water had not weight enough to carry her to the bottom. After taking in the three men, our commander _Don Pedro Midranda_ went in to _Payta_ carrying the pink with him, where he set us ashore. He orderd me to _Piura_ about forty mile up the country; and did me the favour to let _Pressick_ the surgeon and _Cobs_ a marine serjeant go with me: but captain _Hatley_ and the rest he sent under a guard, with mules to carry them to _Lima_, which is above four hundred miles further on the coast; the reason of which I have partly given at the close of my second section: for the cape _Frio_ story being blown, and the moydors found upon _Hatley_, they had a mind the thing should be sifted and the guilty punishd. The admiral having taken in water and refreshments, quickly put to sea again in quest of the _British_ privatiers, designing to take us up to _Lima_ as he came back.

The weather in this latitude being too hot, the custom is to travel from six in the evening till eight in the morning. My _Indian_ guide set me on the best mule he had, which not caring to follow company, I led my fellow travellers the way till ten a clock. While day-light lasted, I observed the country one open plain, with _Indian_ plantations regularly enough cantond out on each side of us. This level is from 30 to 100 mile broad, and extends 300 mile along shore; for I am now going to the southward, having the _Cordileer_ mountains on the left hand, and the great ocean on the right. If this land was well waterd, as the soil is pleasant and fertile, it might be as fine a country as any: but travellers are here obliged to carry water for their mules as well as themselves. At the approach of night we were puzzled in the way: I often found my self stopt by great hills of sand, and my mule as often indeavourd to pull the reins out of my hand, which proving troublesome, the _Indian_ advised me to throw the reins on the mule’s neck; and as soon as that was done the creature easily hit the way. These sands are often shifted by from place to place, which I take to be occasiond by the strong eddies of wind reverberated from the mountains. At night we rested a little at an old empty house in a coppice about half way, which the guide told us was built by the inhabitants of _Piura_, for the accommodation of the prince St. _Bueno_ viceroy of _Peru_, where they met him in formality and regaled him.

At seven in the morning we arrived at _Piura_, being a regular handsom town scituate on the banks of the river _Collan_. The _Indian_ conducted us to the house of a good _Spanish_ gentleman and his wife who having received his charge, the guide returnd to _Payta_. In a quarter of an, hour’s time the towns people flockd in to see the rary show; and instead of being used like prisoners at discretion, we were entertaind with respect and civility, which we were not sure to meet with. Our landlord, I should say keeper’s name was _Don Jeronimo Baldivieso_. He had five daughters, upon the sight of which and their candid way of receiving us, we hoped our time would slide easily away, and our captivity prove agreeable. I began now to be sensible of the admiral’s favour in ordering us to this place; for he had such interest in all the kingdom of _Peru_, that for his sake we found good genteel treatment. Soon as we had refreshd ourselves, according to the custom of the place, with chocolate, biskets and water; we were diverted with the sound of a _Welch_ harp in some inner apartment: the artist had good command of it; for I heard parts of several famous _Italian_, as well as _English_ compositions; and upon inquiry, was informd that all the _Spaniards_ daughters had learnd music, and sung or playd upon some instrument or other. Tho’ at first this seemd a little unaccountable to us, yet I afterwards found that music was common in _Peru_: for the _Italian_ party having a few years before prevaild at the court of _Madrid_, the said viceroy prince St. _Bueno_, who was an _Italian_, had brought a great many musicians of that country along with him; which has now, spread music every where, and is as good in _Peru_ as in old _Spain_.

This I thought proper to mention, because by means of music and an inoffensive carriage, we lived in good harmony with those who had a right to treat us as enemies.

It was a practice here every day for the neighbours to come and view us; at which I was well enough diverted: for _Cobs_ being my serjeant, we had exercised the brown musket together; so that we turnd readily about to shew our selves: but Mr. Pressick hung down his head, and grew melancholy.

_Payta_ being the place, as I said afore, where the pedlars or walking merchants are set ashore, they make _Piura_ their first stage to _Lima_, disposing of their goods and lessening their burthens as they go along: some take the road through _Caxamarca_; others through _Truxillo_ along shore. From _Lima_ they take their passage back to _Panama_ by sea; and perhaps carry a little purchase of brandy with them. At _Panama_ they again stock themselves with _European_ goods, returning by sea to _Payta_, where they are set down: there they hire mules and load them; the _Indians_ going with them, in order to bring them back: and so these traders keep in a continual round till they have got enough to live on. Their traveling expenses are next to nothing; for the _Indians_ are brought under such subjection, that they find lodging for them, and provender for their mules. This every white face may command, being a homage the poor _Indians_ are long accustomd to pay; and some think they have an honour done them into the bargain, except out of generosity they now and then meet with a small recompense. In the _British_ and _French_ nation a pedlar is despised, and his imployment lookd upon as a mean shift to get a living: but it is otherwise here, where the quick return of money is a sufficient excuse for the manner of getting it. And there are many gentlemen in _Old Spain_, who, when their circumstances in life are declining, send their sons to the _Indies_ to retrieve their fortune this very way.

Our lodging was in an outhouse purposely kept for these traveling merchants. According to the _Spanish_ custom, we had our dinner sent to table under cover, where _Don Jeronimo_ and we eat together; while the good lady of the house and her daughters sat together in another room: this is the practice at all meals, and if any strong liquors are drank, it is then. In all our conduct I think the good _Spaniard_ was never disobliged, except once when he saw me drinking a dram with the doctor at a little victualing house. As nothing is more disagreeable to the _Spaniards_ than drunkenness, I had much ado to make amends for this step towards it, tho’ they easily admit of gallantry in the most familiar degree: so that ’tis only changing one enormity for another. Here are several churches endowd; one convent of _Franciscans_, and a seminary for youth instructed by two _Jesuits_.

After we had past about six weeks at _Piura_, our _Indian_ guide came again to wait on us to _Payta_, the man of war being returnd. When we were upon the point of taking leave, our surgeon was missing, which retarded us a day longer: they had conceald him in the town, and designd to keep him there, being a very useful man: and if he could have had a supply of medicines, he might soon have made a handsom fortune. However the next day we mounted our mules and parted with great reluctance, especially with _Don Jeronimo_ and his family.

We went aboard the _Brilliant_ at _Payta_, which having done nothing at sea, made a sort of cruising voyage to _Callao_, the port of _Lima_. The civility I received from the admiral or general of the _South-Seas_, as he is there calld, is what I have touchd upon at the end of my first section, both before we were set ashore at _Payta_, and in our passage from thence to _Callao_. I shall only add one particular to the honour of _Monsieur de Grange_, a captain under the general. Soon as we were taken by the _Brilliant_, as aforesaid, this gentleman seeing the soldiers had stript us, being the conquerers usual perquisit in all these cases; he generously gave me a handsom sute of clothes, two pair of silk stockins, a hat, wig, shirts, and every thing according. We arrived at _Lima_ in about five weeks, and were immediately committed to the same prison where the rest of our companions were sent, except _Hatley_, who, having a particular mark set on him, was confined by himself. And I can’t help remarking, tho’ Mr. _Hatley_ was no friend to me, that it was a cruel thing in _Shelvocke_ to send him of all men upon that enterprize in the _Mercury_. For when captain _Rogers_ came into these seas upon a like cruise 1709, _Hatley_ upon some occasion was separated from him, and made a prisoner afterwards upon the continent: and now being catchd the second time, with the aggravation of the _Portuguese_ money found upon him, he had like to have been torn to pieces.

The court of judges went soon upon the examination of our story, and drew up a charge against us as pyrates: since by the moidors found upon _Hatley_, it appeard they were taken from the subjects of a prince in perfect amity with the crown of _England_: but it was happy for us that the viceroy _Don Diego Marsilia_, who was an archbishop and in the decline of life, was pleased coolly to discriminate the affair, and finding really but one of us guilty, would not sign any order for shedding innocent blood. As for _Hatley_, some were for sending him to the mines for life; others for hanging him: but the several accounts of capt. _Shelvocke_’s vile procedings contributed to his deliverance, the truth of which here were enough of our people at _Lima_ to witness. For besides lieutenant _Serjeantson_ and his men who were brought hither, here came the men whom _Shelvocke_ sent with _Hopkins_ to shift for themselves in a poor empty bark, who for want of sustenance were forced to surrender to the _Indians_: so that the court finding _Shelvocke_ more a principal in the pyratical story than _Hatley_, and believing we had been plagued enough before we came hither, they thought fit to let us all go by degrees. _Hatley_ indeed was kept in irons about a twelvemonth, and then got to _England_.

I was released out of prison in about ten days, by the interest of captain _Fitzgerald_ a native of St. _Malo_, who was in favour with the viceroy, and past his word for my limitation at _Lima_. Upon inquiry for Mr. _Serjeantson_ and his men, I understood that most of them had taken up the religion of the country, had been christend, and were dispersed among the convents in the city. The first that I saw had got his new catechise in one hand, and a pair of large beads dangling in the other. I smiled, and askd the fellow how he liked it: he said very well; for having his religion to chuse, he thought this better than none, since it brought him good meat and drink, and a quiet life. Many of _Shelvocke_’s men followd this example; and I may venture to say this was as good a reason as most of our people could give for their conformity. Tho’ ’tis reckond very meritorious to make a convert, and many arguments were used for that end; yet was there no rigour shewn to bring any of us over. Those who thought fit to be baptized, had generally some of the merchants of _Lima_ for their _padrinos_ or god-fathers, who never faild giving their children a sute of clothes, and some money to drink their healths.

About this time four or five of _Clipperton_’s men, and as many of _Shelvocke_’s got leave from their convents to meet together at a public house kept by one _John Bell_, an _Englishman_, who had a _Nigro_ wife that for some services or other had got her freedom. The design of this meeting was to confirm their new baptism with a bowl of punch: the consequence of which was, they all got drunk and quareld; and forgeting they were true catholics, mistook an image of some good saint that stood in a corner for one of their own company, knockd him down, and demolishd him. I missing the fellows for a few days, inquired at _John_’s house what was become of them. He told me the story, and said they were all put in the _Inquisition_; for the thing having took air, he was obliged to complain of it, or go there himself: but promised that underhand he would indeavour to get them released; which I found afterwards was done in five days: so that they had time enough to say their catechise, repent and be sober. _Bell_ said, if the men had still remaind heretics, this drunken-bout had not come within the verge of the ecclesiastical power; but being novices, and just let into the church, they were the easier pardond; since their outrage upon the saint was no proof of their relapse into error, or an affront to the catholic faith, because they were all disorderd with liquor.

At length about a dozen men of both our ships, being now pretty well instructed, were discharged from the cloysters, and sent to _Callao_ to help careen and fit out the _Flying Fish_, then designd for _Europe_. Here they enterd into a project to run away with the _Margarita_, a pretty sailing ship that lay in the harbour, and go upon the account for themselves: but not knowing what to do for ammunition and a compass, they applyd to Mr. _Serjeantson_, telling him they had a design to steal away by land to _Panama_, where being an _English_ factory, they might have a chance to get home; that they had got half a dozen firelocks with which they could kill wild hogs or get some game as they went along, if he would be so kind to help them to a little powder and shot, and a compass to steer their way through the woods: the fellows, by begging and making catholic signs to the good people at _Lima_, that they were poor _English_ newly baptized, had got together some dollars which they desired _Serjeantson_ to lay out; who not mistrusting the plot, took their money and bought them what they wanted. Thus furnisht one of them came to me at _Lima_, and said there was an opportunity offered to make my fortune, by running away with the _Margarita_ at _Callao_, if I would imbrace it: whereupon he told me the story, and that _Sprake_ was to have the command, as being the only artist among them. I answerd that it was a bold design; but as captain _Fitzgerald_ had ingaged for my honour, I was obliged not to meddle with it. In a few days the plot was discoverd, their lodgings were searchd, their arms taken away and they put in prison. The government was greatly provoked, and had near determined their execution, when an order came to release all but _Sprake_; who being the projector was kept in irons two or three months and then set free. I believe, in this affair their late conformity did them great service: but both these stories are an argument, that neither the _church_ nor _state_ are so rigorous in _Peru_, as the _Romish_ dominions in _Europe_.

CHAP. II.

_Describing the City of_ Lima.

_Lima_ is the metropolis of _Peru_ and the seat of an archbishop. ’Tis a regular built city, the streets all strait and spacious: so that you go thro’ it almost any way without turning a corner. It is composed of little squares like _St. Jago_ the capital of _Chili_, which is copyd from this. It stands in an open vale, having only a gentle stream to water it; and which divides it as the _Thames_ dos _London_ from _Southwark_, allowing for the great disproportion. The port of _Lima_ is at _Callao_ seven mile below it. The houses are only one story high, of twelve or fourteen foot, because of the frequent earthquakes in that country. There are about eight parishes, three colleges for students, twenty eight monasteries of fryers, and thirteen monasteries of nuns: so that the religious take up a fourth part of the city. However by the easy flow of money, and the vast sums bequeathd, being the effects of celibacy, they are all well endowd and supported. Besides which, there are two hospitals for the sick, poor and disabled; and where several of our men were kindly lookt after. The length of the city from north to south is two mile: the breadth one and a half; the wall with the river making a circumference of six mile. On the east side of the stream lies the other part of the city; being joynd by a very handsom stone bridge of five or seven arches.

I compute there are now sixty or seventy thousand persons in _Lima_, all sorts and colours included: and I don’t wonder at any multiplication in a city which is the centre of so much affluence and pleasure. For besides the natural increase of the inhabitants, all ships which trade that way, whether private or public, generally leave some deserters who chuse to stay behind for the incouragement all white faces meet with.

The Inhabitants are thus distinguisht.

_Spaniards_ Natives of _old Spain_.
_Creolians_ Born in _America_ of _white_ parents.
_Mulattas_ Issue of _white_ and _nigro_.
_Mestizos_ Issue of _white_ and _indian_.
_Quartron nigros_ Born of _white_ and _mulatta_.
_Quartron indians_ Born of _white_ and _mestizo_.
_Sambo de mulatta_ _Nigro_ and _mulatta_.
_Sambo de indian_ _Nigro_ and _indian_.

Issue of _sambo mulatta_, and _sambo indian_ are calld _giveros_. These are lookt on as having the worst inclinations and principles; and if the cast is known, they are banisht the kingdom.

* * * * *

Hence procede endless denominations according to the variety of mixture: and some people make a science of it, to know the multiplicity of casts and give them a name: but the forementiond are the chief and most particular. It is counted creditable to mend the breed by ascending or growing whiter; but a descent or cast the other way is calld _saltatras_; from _saltare retrò_, to go backward; and is lookd upon as base born and scandalous.

The difference of birth and parentage causes an observation pleasant enough: for they are as great strangers to each other as _chevaliers_ are in _France_, or graduates and scholars in our universities. So that a _quartron indian_ will hardly keep company with a _mulatta_: and a _mestizo_ thinks himself a king to a _sambo_.

Of all parts of the world, the people here are most expensive in their habit. The men dress as they do in _England_, their coats being either of silk, or fine _English_ cloth, and hair camblets imbroiderd or laced with gold and silver, and their waistcoats commonly the best brocades. The women never wear hoops or stays, only a sticht holland jacket next their shifts: they generally throw over their shoulders a square piece of swanskin flannel intirely coverd with _Flanders_ lace, besides the silver or gold lace round the peticoat: when they walk out, the _Creolian_ women are veild, but not the _Mulatta_; and till the age of thirty or forty they wear no headcloths: their hair being tyed behind with fine ribands. But the pride of both sexes appears chiefly in _Maclin_ and _Brussels_ lace, with which they trim their linen in a most extravagant manner, not omitting their sheets and pillows. Beside the outward covering of the mantle aforesaid, their linen is doubly borderd with it top and bottom, with ruffles of four or five furbelows hanging down to the knee. Then as to pearls and costly stones, which they wear in rings and bracelets for the neck and arms, they are very immoderate; though the value is hardly equal to the appearance.

Of all the convents in _Lima_, that of _St. Domingo_ is the richest, and _Francisco_ the largest. The provincial or governer of the _Dominicans_ is chosen triennially out of their own body, and his income above seven thousand pound a year. I was present at one election, which I mention because of the great splendor and cost which attended it. A large triumphal arch was built cross the street: the inside lined with scarlet cloth and velvet, and hung all over with jewels and wrought plate. Thro’ this the principal people of _Lima_ past with the new provincial at their head; where he stopd to hear a short oration pronounced by a girl upon that occasion, and then went to his convent to finish the solemnity.

The processions in _Lima_ are made with more show and pageantry than those in _Europe_, and are sometimes very extravagant. I was present at that noted one when the image of _St. Dominic_ goes to church to wait upon that of _St. Francis_, which is attended with a deal of firework and equipage: and I doubt not the managers of our opera and comedy would improve much by seeing the odd figures and machinery of this grand visit, which is made yearly to keep up the singular esteem the _Spaniards_ have for those two orders. Tho’ these expenses are profuse, yet at _Lima_ they are common, where the begging fryers often die possest of dollars, from the value of ten to twenty thousand pound. One instance of the riches of this place, I was told by several who rememberd it: that when the duke _de la Plata_ their viceroy made his entry, the inhabitants paved the merchant street thro’ which he past with bars of silver, each of which was 2500 dollars at least: which piece of finery I can liken to nothing but the account we have of _Jerusalem_ in the days of king _Solomon_.

The viceroy has a handsome palace in the great quadrangle of the city; which I take to be near as large as _Lincolns-Inn-Fields_ at _London_. His salary is ten thousand pound a year, and his perquisits double that sum: and tho’ his government expires at three, four, or five years end as the king pleases, yet ’tis supposed he makes a good fortune for life; for he has all places in his gift, both in the government and army throughout _Peru_, except particular persons are sent or nominated by the king.

The judicial court consists of twelve judges, not to mention the inferior officers, council and solicitors. Here all causes should come to be decided; but they are too often determined aforehand in favour of the party who gives most mony. And tho’ these vast dominions abound in riches, yet there is not abundance of work for the lawyers; because the statutes are few and plain: which is certainly happier than a multitude of laws _explaining_ one another ’till they are so _intricate_ that the issue of a cause depends more upon the craft of the solicitor and advocate, than the truth of the case. Moreover, a multiplication of laws begets an infinity of attorneys and council, who live high and great upon the distresses of other people, and as often argue a man _out_ of his right as _into_ it.

Yet in _Peru_ there are _corregidors_ or magistrates in districts from _Lima_ who find ways and means to oppress the poor _Indians_, notwithstanding they are perjured if they trade with them. These natives live chiefly by husbandry and working the mines; and the _Spanish_ court have found it necessary to forbid the _corregidors_ trading with them, in order to secure them a quiet possession of the fruit of their labour. To evade this oath, another person under-hand procures a parcel of _European_ goods and disperses them among the _Indians_, who, tho’ they want none of them, must buy them at 3 or 400 _per cent._ more than prime cost; a time being positively fixt for the money.

These hardships are past retrieving, because every magistrate knows his reign to be but short, and if he don’t make a fortune he is laught at: So that they wink at one another; and the great distance between _Peru_ and _Spain_ is a reason the king’s orders are seldom regarded, being two years going backward and forward: whence arise many clandestine doings. For according to law, the king should have a twentieth part of all gold, and a fifth part of all silver; but there are vast quantities that never pay duty carryd privately over the continent the north way, as well as the south way by trading ships. And tho’ there are prodigious sums allowd for militia, garisons, and repairs of fortifications: yet it is not one half applyd. From all which it is easy to imagine what immense revenues would come to the treasury at _Madrid_, if his _Catholic_ majesty was but faithfully served.

The country in _Peru_ is naturally subject to earthquakes: and I have heard that the _English_ plantations in the north of _America_ have felt them. At _Lima_ they had two great ones about fifty years ago, which overturnd houses, churches and convents: and in the reign of _Charles_ the late king of _Spain_, there was an earthquake near the equinoctial line that lifted up whole fields, and carryd them several miles off. Small shocks are often felt without doing any harm; and I have been two or three times calld out of bed when such a thing has happend, tho’ we have heard no more of it: but upon these occasions the bells always toll to prayers.

Notwithstanding this country, especially nigh the coast, has sufferd much by earthquakes; yet their churches are lofty enough, and neatly built. That part of their architecture which requires most strength is generally finisht with burnt bricks; but their houses are all built with _bambo_ canes and bricks dryd only by the weather, which are durable enough because it never rains. The covering is a matting with ashes upon it to keep out the dews, which is all the wet they have.

The small river of _Lima_ is mostly snow water descending from the neighbouring mountains, which are coverd all the year with snow; but partly dissolved in the summer season, which is from _September_ to _March_. One would expect it much hotter thereabouts than it is, there being no proportion between the heat of this climate in _America_ and the same degree of latitude in _Africa_; for which there are two reasons: one is the cool temper of the air proceding from the congealed snow on the mountains, which diffuses it self every way: the other is, the humidity of the vapours which hang over the plains, and which are so frequent, that when I came first to _Lima_, I often expected it would rain. These vapours are not so coarse, low and humble as our fogs, nor separated above like our summer clouds; but an exhalation between both, being spread all round, as when we say the day is overcast. So that sometimes a fine dew is felt upon the outward garments and discernd by the eye upon the nap of the cloth. This is a happy convenience at _Lima_, the people being thus screend one half of the day from the sun; and tho’ the afternoon be sunshine, ’tis very tolerable being mixt with the sea breezes, and not near so hot as at _Lisbon_, and some parts of _Spain_ in _Europe_ which are thirty degrees further from the equator.

The want of rain in this part of the continent obliged the poor, I should say happy _Indians_, before the conquest, to make dreins and canals for bringing down water from among the distant mountains; which they have done with such great labour and skill that the vallies are kindly refresht, producing grass, corn, and variety of fruits: to which the aforesaid dews may also a little contribute.

_Zarate_ the _Spanish_ historian has given us the natural cause of this perpetual drought. He observes that the south-west winds blow upon the _Peruvian_ coast all the year round; and the ocean is therefore calld _pacific_, because the winds never disturb the waters. These easy gales always bear away the vapours from the plains before they can rise and form a body sufficient to descend in a shower: but when they are carryd farther and higher, they grow more compact and at length fall by their own weight into rain.

This is so fair and rational an account, that I wonder _Monsieur Frezier_ has affected to contradict it. ’Tis convincing to a stranger; and to most gentlemen there who are curious enough to think about it. Any one who reads _Frezier_’s voyage may see he has not only mistaken the _Spaniard_, but given us long conjectures of his own, very confused and improbable.

They have plenty of cattle, fowl and fish; and all provision common to us except butter; instead of which they always use lard. They have oyl, wine and brandy enough, tho’ not so good as in _Europe_. They drink much of the jesuits herb _camini_ brought from _Paraguay_ by land; for all _East-India_ tea is forbid. They make a decoction of it, and suck it through a pipe or quill. It is generally here calld _mattea_, being the name of the bowl out of which they drink it. Chocolate is their usual breakfast and a grace-cup after dinner: Sometimes they drink a glass of brandy for digestion, but scarce any wine at all. In the kingdom of _Chili_ they make a little butter, such as it is; and their way of doing it is remarkable. The cream is put into a sheepskin stript off whole, and kept on purpose: after tying the ends fast, two women lay it on a table, and shake it and sowse it between them ’till it comes.

Tho’ the _Spaniards_ are no friends to the bottle, yet gallantry and intrigue are here brought to perfection, for they devote so much of their time to the service of the fair sex, that _Venus_ seems here to keep her court. It is unmannerly not to have a mistress, and scandalous not to keep her well. As for the women they have many accomplishments both natural and acquired; their conversation is free and sprightly, their motion graceful, their looks winning, and their words ingaging: they have all a delicate shape, not injured with stiff bodyd stays, but left to the beauty of nature; so that there’s no such thing as a crooked body among them. Their eyes and teeth are particularly excellent, and their hair being generally of a dark polisht hue is finely combd, and platted or tyd behind with ribands, but never disguised with powder: for the brightness of their skin round the temples appears very well shaded thro’ the hair like light thro’ a landskip.

Tho’ these amours are universal at _Lima_, yet the men are careful enough to hide them; for no indecent word or action is allowd in public. They have two usual times for these entertainments: one is at the _siesta_ or afternoons nap, which is commonly with the mistress; the other is in the evening cross the water in calashes, or at the great square in the town where the calashes meet in great numbers towards the dusk: these are slung like our coaches, but smaller; and many of them fit only for two sitting opposite. They are always drawn by one mule with the _nigro_ driver upon his back: and it is usual among these calashes to observe several of them with the windows close up, standing still for half an hour together.

In these pastimes they have several customs peculiar to themselves. After evening prayers the gentleman changes his dress, from a cloak into a _montero_ or jocky coat, with a linen laced cap and a hankerchief about his neck instead of a wig. If he wears his hair it must be tuckt under a cap, and that flapt all down: so that it is a universal fashion to be disguised some way or other; for those who have no mistress are ashamed to be thought strictly virtuous, and must be in some mask or other to countenance the way of the world. But as all this is night work, they have an establisht rule to prevent quarels, which is never to speak or take notice of one another; whether they are going in quest of amorous game, or visiting their ladies: so that in short the forepart of the night is a masquerade all the year round.

Among that rank of people who don’t keep calashes there are several points to be observed. Particularly when they take the evening air, one couple never walks close upon the heels of another; but to prevent the publishing any secret whispers, each couple walks at the distance of twelve yards at least: and if any lady drops a fan or any thing by accident, a gentleman may civilly take it up; but he must not give it to the lady, but the gentleman who is with her; for she may be the sister or wife of him that takes it up: and as the women are all veild, these wise laws are instituted to prevent any impertinent discoveries. A freedom of that kind is lookt upon as the highest affront in all gallantry, and merits a drawn sword thro’ the liver. They are so careful in these rules, that if a man sees his intimate friend any where with a girl, he must in no wise take notice of him, or speak of it afterwards:

These things are all done with the greatest gravity imaginable; and thus the practice of love becomes decent, safe and easy: so that a man may possess his mistress without any visible inconvenience, and spend all the money he has in the world without fear of brawls, duels, or a roundhouse: not like the rude hectoring blades and prentices of a certain _northern_ metropolis who are continually affronting the female sex, with shocking words or scandalous actions.

Altho’ the commerce of love is here so regularly settled, yet there are some jealousies now and then subsisting, which sometimes have ended fatally. There was a story of this sort pretty fresh when I was at _Lima_. A young lady had for some time, as she thought, been sovereign mistress of her lover’s heart; but by cruel chance she found him in company with another woman, and perhaps a handsome one. As _Shakespear_ says, _Trifles light as air are to the jealous confirmations strong_: so she waited for no further proof of his infidelity, nor any excuse for the wrong done her; but suddenly drew his dagger and dispatchd him. She was soon confined and brought to tryal: and when every one expected she would be cast for her life, her judges gave it this turn, that it was not malice fore-thought, but excess of love that prompted her to the rash deed. Whereupon she was acquitted: but the nice casuists thought she should in honour have hangd her self. This instance shews how sacred a thing love is there judged to be, tho’ in a state of concubinage only. And the moral good or evil of some actions are hard to be determined, while different governments have different customs.

How agreeable soever these practices are to the _Creole Spaniards_, yet they cause a great inconvenience to society: for the men are so seriously taken up with their delicacies, that the women ingross most of their time, and spoil all public conversation. For this reason there are no taverns or coffee-houses, so that the men are only to be met with at their offices or at church. They have a sort of playhouse where the young gentlemen and students divert themselves after their fashion: for what performances they have in the dramatical way are so mean, that they are hardly worth mentioning, being scripture stories interwoven with romance and obscenity.

It was at this theatre that two _English_ sailors of _monsieur Martinet_’s squadron fought a prize a little before I came to _Lima_. They first obtaind leave of the viceroy to exercise at the usual weapons; and after the shew-day was fixt, most of the preceding time was taken up with preparatory ceremonies to bring a good house. They each traversed the town by beat of drum in their holland shirts and ribands, saluting the spectators at their windows with a learned flourish of the sword; so that by the extraordinary novelty and manner of the thing, the whole city came to see the tryal of skill: some gave gold, but few less than a dollar. When the company male and female was close packt up together, the masters mounted the stage: and after the usual compliment peculiar to the _English_ nation of shaking hands before they quarel, they retired in great order and stood upon their guard. Several bouts were playd without much wrath or damage: but the design of this meeting being more to get money than cuts or credit, one of the masters had the seasonable fortune to receive a small harm on the breast, which having blooded his shirt began to make the combat look terrible: whereupon the company fearing from such a dreadful beginning that the zele of the champions might wax too intemperate; and till they were reconciled, no man in the house was safe, unanimously cryd out _basta, basta_, which signifys enough, enough; and so the house broke up. The sailors finding this a better prize than any they ever made at sea, humbly besought his excellency for another trial of skill: but the viceroy and people were all against it, from a religious objection which could never be got over; and that was, lest the fellows should kill one another, die without absolution and be damnd.

While I was at _Lima_, I grew acquainted with one _monsieur Thaylet_, a gentleman whose effects were seised by _Martinet_’s squadron, as an interloper from St. _Malo_: after which he remaind in _Peru_, where he was imployd by the government, he having been formerly commander of several good ships. The first service he had, was to fetch the bottle with instructions for _Shelvocke_, buryd by _Clipperton_ at _Fernandes_, p. 97 of this book. On his return with the said instructions and the two men who deserted there, the viceroy willing to incourage him, thought of another short expedition for him in the same vessel; being an _English_ ketch of about sixty ton, and had served captain _Martinet_ as a tender. The viceroy having lately had certain notice by a _Spanish_ ship, that they accidentally made an island in the _South-Seas_ till then unknown to them, tho’ markt in several drafts by the name of _Solomon_’s island; it made his excellency curious to persue the discovery. He thereupon orderd the ketch to be fitted out for two months under _Thaylet_’s command; who accordingly saild into ten degrees south, in which latitude the island was said to lye. He cruised thereabout till his provision was nigh expended; and returnd without success. However as the same account came by two different ships who touchd there, the _Spaniards_ verily believe there is such a place; for the men reported, that the natives, as to their persons and behaviour, were much like the _Indians_ on the continent; that they had many gold and silver things among them, but that their language was new and unintelligible. The reason why Mr. _Thaylet_ could not meet with _Solomon_’s island, might be from the uncertainty of the latitude, and his inability of making further search, being provided for only two months: for I have been informd in _London_ that the said island or islands lye more southerly in the _Pacific_ ocean than where they are laid down in the _Dutch_ maps. And the two _Spaniards_ who had been there, were only small trading vessels carryd thither by irregular currents; and could give no certain account of the latitude, because they kept no reckoning.

To sum up this chapter, I shall only observe that the _Spanish Peruvians_ are better seated for the happiness of this world, than any people I know. If they are indolent, their great affluence makes them so. If they are delicate, the kind serenity of the climate contributes greatly to it. Much husbandry and labor is needless, where the whole year is a fruitful spring. Indeed the _Nigros_ and _Indians_ do all the work; for a white face is exemption enough from all labor and care. In our unequal gloomy regions, many customs would be condemnd, which are there the pure effect of nature: for the night and day make a happy medium between cold and heat. Therefore, if the general bent of human nature be for constant happiness and freedom from pain, the man of pleasure must go to _Peru_, and make _Lima_ his temporal paradise.

CHAP. III.

_Of the mines of_ Chili _and_ Peru; _and the method of working out
the_ gold _and_ silver _from the mass._

_Chili_ being the southermost division of the continent of _America_, is therefore cooler than _Peru_; and perhaps would sute an _English_ constitution better. It is divided from _Peru_ at the tropic of _Capricorn_; and is remarkable for that vast chain of mountains known by the name of _Cordileer_, which coast along from _Magellan_ streights up to the _istmus_ of _Darien_, being about 4000 mile. It is governd by a lieutenant general, stiled _president_ of _Chili_, because he is at the head of all civil affairs as well as military: nevertheless he receives orders from the viceroy of _Peru_. The capital city is St. _Jago_; it was founded in 1541, and is a copy of _Lima_.

I shall here entertain the reader chiefly with an extract from _Frezier_’s voyage relating to the mines, and the manner of separating the mineral from the earth. He undertook the _South-Sea_ voyage by permission of king _Lewis_ the XIV^{th}, and was there about six years before us, on purpose to make such discoveries, plans and observations as he thought fit. His account, as it is good and intirely new, will without doubt be agreeable to the curious reader:

In _Chili_, the mines which at present yield most gold, are about the towns of _Conception_ and _Copiapo_; and the villages of _Tiltil_ and _Lampanqui_ near _Valparaiso_; tho’ the whole mountains are more or less impregnated with it. The silver mines of _Peru_ are at _Lipes_, _Guaico_, _Iquic_ and St. _Anthony_: gold ones being very scarce in that part of the continent. _Potosi_ has originally afforded such surprising quantities of silver, that it has been proverbial for its treasure: the town stands at the bottom of the famous mountain where the mines lye, and is very populous. The country is obliged by the king’s order to send a great number of _Indians_ yearly to work in those mines; for all white faces are excused from servitude, and the _Nigros_ are not able to work in them because the cold will kill them: but they are imployd in all other business on the surface; so that the native _Indians_ are only destined to this labour.

The _Corregidors_ or magistrates who overlook those _Indians_ appointed to work in the mines, summon them to set out all together on a certain day. They generally take their wives and children with them, who, with tears in their eyes, leave their native homes, and travel unwillingly on to the house of bondage. Many indeed forget their habitation, and after the years end settle at _Potosi_, which is the chief reason that town is so populous, and almost equals the city of _Lima_ as to its number of inhabitants.

Tho’ the mines here are far diminisht in their produce, yet the quantity of ore that has been already wrought, and lain many years upon the surface, is thought capable to yield a second crop; and when I was at _Lima_, they were actually turning it up, and new milling it with great success: which is a proof that these minerals generate in the earth like all other inanimate things. And it is likewise certain from all accounts of the _Spaniards_, that gold and silver, as well as other metals, are continually growing and forming themselves in the earth. This opinion is verifyd by experience in the mountain of _Potosi_, where several mines have fallen in and buryd the workmen with their tools. After some years they have dug the same place, and discoverd many bones and pieces of wood with veins of silver actually running through them.

These mines belong to him who first discovers them. He immediately presents a petition to the magistrates to have such a piece of earth for his own; which is no sooner done than granted. They measure eighty _Spanish_ yards in length and forty over, which is about two hundred foot in length and one hundred in breadth, and yield it to the discoverer; who chuses what space he thinks fit, and does what he pleases with it. Then they measure just the same quantity for the king, which is sold to the best bidders; there being many who are willing to purchase a treasure which may prove inestimable. If any other person has a mind to work part of the mine himself, he bargains with the proprietor for a particular vein. All that such a one digs out is his own, paying the king’s duty, which is for gold a 20th part, and for silver a 5th: And some landlords are so well satisfyd with letting out their ground and their mills, that they live upon the profit.

The mill for grinding and separating the gold from the ore is made after the manner of our cyder mills. There is first a round stone cistern about ten foot diameter, with a deep orbicular chanel at the bottom. This stone cistern is bored in the middle to let thro’ the long axil-tree of a horizontal wheel placed under it, and wider than the cistern: the wheel is set round with half pitchers, that it may turn as the water falls upon them. This wheel turning the axil, causes a milstone to roll along edgeways by another spindle in the chanel of the cistern above, which grinds the hard ore put in it.

When the stuff is a little broken, they put quick-silver to it, which immediately clings to the gold, and leaves the dross: then they let fall a stream of water, the force of which dissolves the earth, and drives it out at a notch made for that purpose. The gold with the mercury lyes at the bottom by its own weight; which, after they have done work, they gather up and put into a linen bag to squeese out the quick silver as well as they can: then they lay it to the fire, that the remainder may evaporate. This is what they call _pinna_ gold, being clung together like a pine apple; and when this is once melted, it needs no more refining: so that a gold miner has a great advantage of a silver one; for the mercury, adhering so naturally to the gold, leaves all the dross immediately, and the workman knows every day what he gets: whereas the silver miner can’t know till a month or two after.

The silver ore is ground as the gold aforementiond, or sometimes broke with iron pounders of 200 weight to fall by a machine. But milling being the usual way, they grind the ore with water, which makes first a thin mud that runs out of the cistern into a receiver: whenas ’tis dry pounded, it must be steept in water and moulded with the feet, which occasions much more trouble.