Chapter X: Part 10

Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a small island, about a mile distant from the north-east point of the main; and this being the most eastern part of it, the Captain named it EAST CAPE, and the island EAST ISLAND: it was but small, and appeared barren. The cape is in latitude 37 degrees 42 minutes 30 seconds south. There are many small bays from Tolaga Bay to East Cape. When the Endeavour had doubled the cape, many villages presented themselves to view, and the adjacent land appeared cultivated. In the evening of the 30th, Lieutenant Hicks discovered a bay, to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, several canoes came off from shore with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been seen, full of armed Indians came off, and made towards the Endeavour with great expedition. The Captain now judging it expedient to prevent, if possible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads; this not producing the desired effect, another gun was fired with ball, which threw them into such consternation, that they immediately returned much faster than they came. This precipitate retreat, induced the Captain to give the cape, off which it happened, the name of CAPE RUNAWAY, which lies in latitude 37 degrees 32 minutes, longitude 181 degrees 48 minutes. Next morning, at day break, they saw between forty and fifty canoes along shore, many of which came off in the manner they had done the day before, shouting, and menacing an attack. One of their Chiefs in the largest of the canoes made several harangues, and by the menacing flourish of his pike, seemed to bid the ship defiance; but the gentlemen continuing to invite them to trade, they at last came close along-side, and the Chief who had been declaiming, after uttering a sentence, took up a stone and threw it against the side of the ship, which appeared to be a declaration of hostilities, as they instantly seized their arms; Tupia told them, that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered in their design, and at the same time assured them of the gentlemens pacific intentions, and that they only wanted to traffick with them. Neither his threats nor persuasions would probably have had any effect, had he not at the same time shewn them some pieces of cloth, which attracted their eye, and brought them to reason. The gentlemen now purchased a great quantity of cray-fish, muscles and conger-eels. These Indians did not attempt any fraud in their trading; but some others, who succeeded them, took the goods from the ship without making proper returns: one of them, who had been particularly culpable, and seemed to pride himself upon his cunning, putting off with his canoe, was brought back by a musquet being fired over his head, and this presently produced good order. But when the sailors began to traffick with the Indians, they renewed their former fraudulent practices, with great insolence. One of them seized some linen that was hanging to dry, and made off with it; a musquet was fired over his head to make him return, but this did not prevail, and even after another was fired at him with small shot, which hit him in the back, he still persevered in his design. Upon this the rest of the Indians dropt a-stern at some distance, and set up their song of defiance. They did not, however, make any preparations for attacking the ship; but the Captain judged, that if he suffered them to go off without convincing them of his power of avenging the insult, it might give an unfavourable opinion of the English, to the natives on shore. He accordingly fired a four pounder, which passed over them, and the effect it had in the water terrified them so greatly, that they made to shore with the utmost precipitancy. In the afternoon they descried a high island to the west, and some time after perceived some other islands and rocks in the same quarter; not being able to weather them before night came on, they bore up between them and the main-land. About seven in the evening a double canoe, built like those at Otaheite, but carved after their peculiar manner, came up to the ship, and Tupia entered into a friendly conversation with the Indians on board; when, on a sudden, it being now dark, they pelted the ship with stones, and then retreated. Tupia was told by the Indians in the canoe, that the island close to which the Endeavour lay, was called _Mowtohera_; it was but a few miles from the main-land, of no great extent, but pretty high. They saw a high round mountain, south-west by west of _Mowtohera_, which the Captain named MOUNT EDGECOMBE.

The next morning, November 2, many canoes made their appearance, and one, which proved to be the same that gave the salute the night before, came up, and Tupia again engaged in conversation with the people in her. After behaving very peaceably about an hour, the fit of pelting again seized them, and they gave the ship another volley of stones; but a musquet being fired, they instantly took to their paddles.

In the forenoon, of the same day, the Endeavour sailed between a low flat island and the main: the villages upon the latter were more extensive than any they had yet seen. They were upon the high land next the sea, and were surrounded by a bank with rails on the top of it, and a ditch. There were some inclosures that resembled forts, and the whole had the appearance of fortified places. The Endeavour passed the night under an island about twenty miles from the main, which they named the MAYOR. In the morning of the 3d, they gave the name of THE COURT OF ALDERMEN to a number of small islands that lay contiguous, about twelve miles from the main, between which there are several other small islands mostly barren, but very high. The aspect of the main-land was now much changed, the soil appearing barren, and the country very thinly inhabited. The Chief, who governed the district from Cape _Turnagain_ to this coast, was named _Teratu_.

On Friday the 3d, three canoes came a-longside with several Indians. These canoes were built very different from the others, being formed of the trunks of single trees, made hollow by burning: they were not carved, or in any shape ornamented. These Indians were of a darker complexion than the others, but made use of the same modes of defiance, and threw several stones and some of their lances into the ship.

The same afternoon the Endeavour sailed towards an inlet they had discovered, and anchored in seven fathom water. She was soon after surrounded by several canoes, and the Indians at first did not shew any signs that they intended committing hostilities. One of the Endeavour’s people shot a bird, which the Indians conveyed on board, without testifying any surprise at the event. For their civility, the Captain gave them a piece of cloth. But this favour had a very opposite influence to what was expected, for when it grew dark, they sung one of their menacing songs, and attempted to carry off the anchor’s buoy. Some musquets were now fired over them, which seemed rather to irritate than terrify them, and upon their going off, they threatened to return the next morning in greater numbers; they came back however the same night about eleven o’clock, in hopes of surprising the ship’s crew; but finding them on their guard, they again retired.

In the morning of the 4th, a great number of canoes, with near two hundred men, armed with spears, lances and stones, made their appearance, seemingly resolved to attack the ship, and desirous of boarding her, but could not determine at what part, changing their stations, and paddling round her. These motions kept the crew upon the watch, in the rain, whilst Tupia, at the request of the Captain, used every dissuasive argument he could suggest to prevent their carrying their apparent designs into execution; but his expostulations did not pacify them till some musquets were fired; they then laid aside their hostile intentions, and began to trade: they sold two of their weapons without fraud, but a third, for which they had received cloth, they would not deliver up, and instead of paying any attention to the demand that was made of it, they only laughed at them, and turned their expostulations into ridicule. As the Captain proposed to stay some days at this place, that he might observe the Transit of Mercury, he judged it expedient to chastise these people for their insolence and knavery; accordingly some small shot were fired upon the principal offender, and a musquet-ball went through his canoe. His companions left him to his fate, without taking the least notice of him, though he was wounded, and continued to trade without any discomposure. They for some time traded very fairly, but returning to their male practices, another canoe was fired upon, and struck: they soon after paddled away, whilst a round shot was fired over them.

Thus we find, that theft and chicane are as prevalent amongst the inhabitants of New Zealand, as those of Otaheite; from whence we might conclude, that in all uncivilized nations, probity is not considered as a virtue, or theft as a vice. Having no punishment for crimes of this kind, it may be urged, that they are not taught to consider them as such; but if nature has implanted in us just ideas of right and wrong, they must operate as forcibly upon the inhabitants under the line, as on those of other climes; and a native of Otaheite must be equally conscious of a breach of natural justice as the most polished European. However, as this is establishing the doctrine of innate ideas, which would lead us into a large field of controversy, we shall leave the reader to his own opinion upon this subject.

In searching for a convenient anchoring-place, the Captain saw a village upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified like those villages already mentioned. Having met with a place to his mind near where the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ship, and sailed to that spot, where he cast anchor.

Several of the Indians came off to the ship on the 5th, but behaved much better than they had done the preceding day. They had with them an old man, who had before testified his probity and discretion; and he appeared to be of superior rank to the rest. He came on board with another Indian, when the Captain presented them with some nails, and two pieces of cloth of English manufacture. _Tojava_ (which was the name of the old man) informed Mr. Banks, that the natives had been in great terror of the English; when he was informed, that the Captain and his people had no ill design against the Indians; but, on the contrary, wanted to establish a friendly intercourse, and to traffick with them. Tojava then acquainted the Captain, that they were often visited by freebooters from the north, who stripped them of all they could lay their hands on, and often made captives of their children and wives; and that being ignorant who the English were upon their first arrival, the natives had taken the alarm upon the ship’s appearing off the coast, but were now satisfied of their good intent. He added, that to secure themselves from these plunderers, their houses were built contiguous near the tops of rocks, where they are more able to defend themselves. Probably their poverty and misery may be ascribed to the ravages of this banditti, who often strip them of every necessary of life. Whilst they were fishing for mullets in the bay, the Indians who were upon the banks testified their friendship by every possible means, and gave them an invitation to come on shore.

The assurances of friendship, which they had received from the gentlemen on board, seemed to have a proper influence upon the natives, who were now very tractable and submissive, and behaved with much civility to the people in the long-boat, which was again dispatched into the bay to fish, but with little success; the Indians however brought great quantities of fish, dressed and dried; and though they were very indifferent, they were purchased, that trade might not be discouraged. In a word, the natives now treated the English with great hospitality; a large supply of wood and good water was obtained, and the ship, being very foul, was heeled, and her bottom scrubbed in the bay.

November the 8th the ship was visited by several canoes, in one of which was Tojava, who perceiving two strange canoes paddling from the opposite shore, suddenly turned about, and acquainted the Captain that he was under apprehensions, the people in them were some of the freebooters, but he soon found his mistake, and returned to the ship. The Indians supplied the ship’s crew with as much excellent fish, resembling mackrel, as was sufficient for all their dinners, for which they gave them some pieces of cloth.

A great variety of plants were this day collected by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander; they had never observed any of the kind before. These gentlemen remained on shore till near dark, when they observed the manner of the natives disposing of themselves during the night. They lay under some bushes; the men nearest the sea in a semicircular form, and the women and children the most distant from it; their arms were placed against trees very near them, to defend themselves in case of a surprize from the freebooters. They had no king, whose sovereignty they acknowledged, which was a circumstance unparalleled on any other parts of the coast.

Early in the morning of the 9th, several canoes brought a prodigious quantity of mackrel, one sort of which was no way different from the mackrel caught on our coast. These canoes were succeeded by many others, equally well loaded with the same sort of fish; and the cargoes purchased were so great, that when salted, they might be considered as a month’s provision for the whole ship’s company.

This being a very clear day, the astronomer (Mr. Green) and the other gentlemen landed to observe the Transit of Mercury, and whilst the observation was making, a large canoe, with various commodities on board, came alongside the ship and Mr. Gore, the officer who had then the command, being desirous of encouraging them to traffick, produced a piece of Otaheitean cloth, of more value than any they had yet seen, which was immediately seized by one of the Indians, who obstinately refused either to return it, or give any thing in exchange; he paid dearly however for his temerity, being shot dead on the spot.

The death of this young Indian alarmed all the rest; they fled with great precipitancy, and for the present could not be induced to renew their traffick with the English. But when the Indians on shore had heard the particulars related by Tojava, who greatly condemned the conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think that he merited his fate. His name proved to be Otirreeoonooe.

This transaction happened, as has been mentioned, whilst the observation was making of the Transit of Mercury, when the weather was so favourable, that the whole Transit was viewed without a cloud intervening. Mr. Green made the observation of the ingress, whilst Captain Cook was engaged in ascertaining the time, by taking the sun’s altitude. The Transit commenced at 7 hours, 20 min. 58 sec. by Mr. Green’s observation the internal contact was at 12 hours, 8 min. 57 sec. the external at 12 hours, 9 min. 54 sec. the latitude 30 deg. 48 min. 5 sec. In consequence of this observation having been made here, this bay was called _Mercury Bay_.

On the 10th Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and the Captain went in boats to inspect a large river that runs into the bay. They found it broader some miles within than at the mouth, and intersected into a number of streams, by several small islands, which were covered with trees. On the east side of the river the gentlemen shot some shags, which proved very good eating. The shore abounded with fish of various kinds, such as cockles, clams and oysters; and here were also ducks, shags, seapies and curlieus, with other wild fowl in great plenty. At the mouth of the river there was good anchorage in five fathom water. The gentlemen were received with great hospitality by the inhabitants of a little village, on the east side of the river. There are the remains of a fort called Eppah, in a peninsula that projects into the river, and it was well calculated for defending a small number against a greater force. From the remains, it nevertheless seemed to have been taken and partly destroyed.

The Indians sup before sun-set, when they eat fish and birds baked or roasted; they roast them upon a stick, stuck in the ground near the fire, and bake them in the manner the dog was baked, which the gentlemen ate at King George’s Island.

A female mourner was present at one of their suppers; she was seated upon the ground, and wept incessantly, at the same, time repeating some sentences in a doleful manner, but which Tupia could not explain; at the termination of each period she cut herself with a shell upon her breast, her hands or her face; notwithstanding this shocking, bloody spectacle greatly affected the gentlemen present, yet all the Indians who sat by her, except one, were quite unmoved. The gentlemen saw some, who from the depth of their scars must, upon these occasions, have wounded themselves still more violently.

November 11, great plenty of oysters were procured from a bed which had been discovered, and they proved exceedingly good. Next day the ship was visited by two canoes, with unknown Indians; after some invitation they came on board, and they all trafficked without any fraud.

Two fortified villages being descried, the Captain, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went to examine them: the smallest was romantically situated upon a rock, which was arched; this village did not consist of above five or six houses, fenced round. There was but one path, which was very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were invited by the inhabitants to pay them a visit, but not having time to spare, they took another route, after making presents to the females. A body of men, women and children now approached the gentlemen, who proved to be the inhabitants of another town, which they proposed visiting. They gave many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, among others they uttered the word _Heromai_, which, according to Tupia’s interpretation, implied Peace, and appeared much satisfied, when informed the gentlemen intended visiting their habitations. Their town was named _Wharretouwa_; it is seated on a point of land over the sea, on the north side of the bay; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. Within the ditch a stage is erected for defending the place in case of an attack; near this stage, which they call _Porava_, quantities of darts and stones are deposited to be in readiness to repel the assailants. There is another stage to command the path that leads to the town, and there are also some outworks. Upon the whole, the place seemed calculated to hold out a considerable time against an enemy armed with no other weapons than those of the inhabitants. It appeared however deficient in water for a siege. They eat instead of bread fern root, which was herein great plenty, with dried fish.

Very little land is here cultivated, sweet potatoes and yams being the only vegetables they found. There are two rocks near the foot of this fortification, both separated from the main land; they are very small, nevertheless they are not without dwelling-houses and little fortifications. They throw stones in their engagements with their hands, being destitute of a sling, and those and lances are their only missile weapons; they have, besides the _Pattoo Pattoo_, already described, a staff about five feet in length, and another shorter.

They sailed from this bay, after taking possession of it in the name of the King of Great Britain, on the 15th of November; Tojava, who visited them in his canoe just before their departure, said he should, as soon as the English were gone, prepare to retire to his fort, as the relations of Otirreeoonooe had menaced to take his life, as a forfeit for that of the deceased, Tojava being judged partial in this affair to the English. A number of islands of different sizes appeared towards the north-west, which were named _Mercury Islands_. Mercury bay lies in latitude 36 deg. 47 min. south; longitude 184 deg. 4 min. west, and has a small entrance at its mouth. On account of the number of oysters found in the river, the Captain gave it the name of _Oyster river_. _Mangrove river_ (which the Captain so called from the great number of those trees that grew near it) is the most secure place for shipping, being at the head of the bay. The north-west side of this bay and river is much more fertile than the east side. The inhabitants, though numerous, have no plantations; their canoes are very indifferently constructed, and are no way ornamented; they lie under continual apprehensions of Teratu, being considered by him as rebels.

Upon this shore iron sand is in plenty to be found, which proves that there are mines of that metal up the country, it being brought down by a rivulet from thence.

On the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour steered between the main, and an island which seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Uli Etea. Many canoes filled with Indians came along-side, and the Indians sung their war song, but the Endeavour’s people paying them no attention, they threw a volley of stones, and then paddled away; but they presently returned and renewed their insults. Tupia spoke to them, making use of his old argument, that inevitable destruction would ensue if they persisted; they answered with brandishing their weapons, intimating, at the same time, that if the English dared to come on shore they would destroy them all. Tupia still persisted in expostulating with them, but to no purpose; and they soon gave another volley of stones; but upon a musket being fired at one of their boats, they made a precipitate retreat.

In the evening they cast anchor in 23 fathom, and early the next morning they sailed up an inlet. Soon after two canoes came off, and some of the Indians came on board; they claimed an acquaintance with Tojava, and knew Tupia’s name; and after they had received some presents they retired peaceably.

The Endeavour was now in the bay, called by the natives Ooahaouragee, and Captain Cook, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, &c. went in the boats to the bottom of the bay to examine it, and they did not return till next morning. They had been up a fresh water river, at the bottom of the bay, in three fathoms water, which would make a good harbour. They met with an Indian town, and a hippah, or place of refuge, the inhabitants of which invited them to land, and gave them a friendly reception. At the entrance of a wood they met with a tree ninety-eight feet high from the ground to the first branch, quite strait, and nineteen feet in circumference and they found still larger trees of the same kind as they advanced into the wood. The Captain called this river THAMES, being not unlike our river of that name. They also found several young cabbage trees, and a new species of the palm-nut, or _Pardanus_.

Captain Cook weighed anchor the same afternoon, sailing down the river with the tide, the wind blowing fresh from north-north-west; the next morning the flood obliged him to cast anchor again; and the Captain, with Dr. Solander, went on shore to the west, but made no observations worth relating. The ship, at their departure from it, was surrounded with canoes, which induced Mr. Banks to remain on board, that he might trade with the Indians. The chief object of these people was paper, for which they exchanged their arms and cloaths, and took no unfair advantages. Though the traders were honest in their dealings, there was one amongst them, who took a fancy to a half-minute glass, but was detected in secreting it, and he was punished with the cato’nine tails. The other Indians endeavoured to save him from this punishment; but being opposed, they got their arms from the canoes, and some of the people in them attempted to get on board. Mr. Banks and Tupia now coming upon deck, the Indians applied to Tupia but he having no influence upon Mr. Hicks, the commanding officer, informed them of the nature of the offender’s intended punishment, which pacified them, as they imagined he was going to be put to death. The criminal not only received twelve lashes, but afterwards a drubbing from an old man, who was thought to be his father. The canoes immediately went off, the Indians saying, they should be afraid to return again on board. Tupia, however, had so much influence over them as to bring them back; but they seemed to have lost that confidence, which they had before reposed in the English.

On the 23d the wind being still against them, they were obliged to tide it down the river, anchoring between tides; they passed a point of land, which the Captain called _Point Rodney_, and which is the north-west extremity of the river. As they could not approach the land, on account of the wind, they had but a distant view of the main for a course of near thirty miles. Captain Cook comprehended, under the name of the River Thames, the whole bay; and the promontory at the north-east extremity, he called Cape Colville, in honour of the peer of that name. This cape is in latitude 36 deg. 26 min. longitude 194 deg. 27 min. it is distinguishable at a considerable distance by a very high rock. The river runs south by east from the south point of this cape; it is, in the narrowest parts, at least three leagues over for near fourteen leagues, when it becomes narrower. It was thought to contain fish in abundance, as there appeared many implements necessary for fishing; the water was in some places twenty-six fathoms deep, and gradually diminished. There are several small islands within cape Colville, which appear to form tolerable harbours. There are also islands towards the western shore. The anchorage is good in all parts of the bay, which is defended from the sea by a number of small islands, which Captain Cook named _Barrier Islands_.

The circumjacent country, which is pretty extensive, appeared to be but thinly inhabited; the natives are a stout and active people, and are painted red all over: their canoes were ornamented with carving, and were constructed upon a good model.

On the 24th, they still continued steering along the shore, between the islands and the main, and in the evening anchored in an open bay, in about fourteen fathoms water. Here they caught a large number of fish of the scienne, or bream kind; from which the Captain named this _Bream Bay_, and the extreme points of it _Bream Head_. There are numbers of rocks off this bay, which were called the _Hen and Chickens_; it is situated in latitude 35 deg. 46 min. seventeen leagues north-west of cape Colville. There is an extent of land of about thirty miles between Point Rodney and Bream Head; it is woody and low. No inhabitants were visible, but from the fires perceived at night, the gentlemen concluded it was inhabited.

On the 25th, early in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, keeping to the northward near the shore. Some islands were soon after discovered, about ten miles to the north-north-east, which they called the _Poor Knights_; upon these islands there were some houses, and a few towns that appeared fortified, and the land round them seemed cultivated. Towards night several canoes, with a number of Indians, came up to the ship, and some came on board. Two of the Chiefs received presents, and told the gentlemen, that they had had an account of the arrival of the English in those parts. After their departure other Indians came up to trade, and soon began their usual fraudulent practices; the gentlemen had recourse to the old remedy of firing some small shot, and a round shot, which soon put them to flight.

Sunday the 26th, Captain Cook continued his course slowly along the shore to the north. This day two canoes came up, and some of the Indians came on board, when they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes soon after followed them, and coming up to the ship, the people in them hailed the others, when they conferred together, and afterwards came along-side of the ship. The last two canoes were finely ornamented with carving, and the people, who appeared to be of higher rank, were armed with various weapons; they held in high estimation their _Patoo Patoos_, which were made of stone and whalebone, and they had ribs of whale, with ornaments of dog’s hair, which were very curious. These people were of a darker complexion than those to the southward, and their faces were stained blacker, with what they call Amoco; and their thighs were striped with it, very small interstices of the flesh being left visible. Though they all used the black _Amoco_, they applied it to different parts, and in various forms. Most of them had the figure of volutes on their lips, and one woman in particular was curiously marked upon various parts of her body. These Indians seemed the superiors of the others, they were nevertheless not free from the vice of pilfering, for one of them having agreed to barter a weapon for a piece of cloth, he was no sooner in possession of the cloth, than he paddled away without paying the price of it; but a musquet being fired, he came back and returned the cloth. All the canoes then returned ashore.

The Endeavour passed a remarkable point of land, which the Captain called _Cape Bret_, in honour of the baronet of that name: this cape is much higher than any of the adjacent land. Within a mile to the north-east by north is a curious rocky island; it is arched, and has a pleasing effect at a distance. The natives call this _Cape Motugogogo_: it lies in latitude 35 deg. 10 min. 30 sec. south; and longitude 185 deg. 23 min. west. It forms a bay to the west, which contains many small islands, and Captain Cook named the point at the north-west entrance _Point Pococke_. There are many villages on the main as well as on the islands, which appeared well inhabited, and several canoes, filled with Indians, made to the ship, and after coming along-side to trade, shewed the same itch for cheating as the others. One of the midshipmen was so nettled at being imposed upon, that he had recourse to a whimsical expedient by way of revenge; taking a fishing line, he threw the lead with so much dexterity, that the hook caught the Indian who had imposed upon him by the buttocks, when the line breaking, the hook remained in his posteriors. These Indians were strong and well proportioned; their hair was black, and tied up in a bunch stuck with feathers: the Chiefs among them had garments made of fine cloth, ornamented with dog’s skin; and they were tataowed like those who had last appeared.

On the 27th the Endeavour was among a number of small islands, from which several canoes came off; but the Indians, from their frantic gestures, seemed disordered in their minds; they threw their fish into the ship by handfuls, without demanding any thing by way of barter. Some other canoes also came up, who saluted the ship with stones. One of the Indians, who was particularly active, threw a stick at one of the Endeavour’s men. It was then judged time to bring them to reason, and a musquet, with small shot was fired at him, when he fell down in the canoe. A general terror was now spread amongst them, and they all made a very precipitate retreat. Among the fish obtained from these canoes, were _Cavalles_ in great plenty, and for this reason the Captain called these islands by the same name.

For several days the wind was so very unfavourable, that the vessel rather lost than gained ground; on the 29th, having weathered Cape Bret, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands, and suddenly came into four fathom and a half water. Upon sounding, they found they had got upon a bank, and accordingly weighed and dropped over it, and anchored again in ten fathoms and a half; after which the ship was surrounded by thirty-three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians all armed. Some of them were admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broad cloath to one of the Chiefs, and some small presents to the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the fire arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted with; but whilst the Captain was at dinner, on a signal given by one of their Chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and they attempted to tow away the buoy; a musquet was now fired over them, but it produced no effect; small shot was then fired at them, but it did not reach them. A musquet, loaded with ball, was therefore ordered to be fired, and _Otegoowgoow_ (son of one of the Chiefs) was wounded in the thigh by it, which induced them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their confusion a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon as they landed they ran in search of it. If these Indians had been under any kind of military discipline, they might have proved a much more formidable enemy; but acting thus, without any plan or regulation, they only exposed themselves to the annoyance of fire arms, whilst they could not possibly succeed in any of their designs.

The Captain, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander landed upon the island, and the Indians in the canoes soon after came on shore. The gentlemen were now in a small cove, and they were presently surrounded by near four hundred armed Indians; but the Captain not suspecting any hostile design on the part of the natives, remained peaceably disposed. The gentlemen marching towards them, drew a line, intimating that they were not to pass it; they did not infringe upon this boundary for some time, but at length they sung the song of defiance, and began to dance, whilst a party attempted to draw the Endeavour’s boats on shore; these signals for an attack being immediately followed by the Indians breaking in upon the line, the gentlemen judged it time to defend themselves, and accordingly the Captain fired his musquet, loaded with small shot, which was seconded by Mr. Banks discharging his piece, and two of the men followed his example. This threw the Indians into confusion, and they retreated; but were rallied again by one of their Chiefs, who shouted and waved his patoo patoo. The Doctor now pointed his musquet at this hero, and hit him; this stopt his career, and he took to flight with the other Indians. They retired to an eminence in a collective body, and seemed dubious whether they should return to the charge. They were now at too great a distance for ball to reach them; but these operations being observed from the ship, she brought her broad side to bear, and by firing over them soon dispersed them. The Indians had in this skirmish two of their people wounded, but none killed. Peace being thus restored, the gentlemen began to gather celery and other herbs; but suspecting some of the natives were lurking about with evil designs, they repaired to a cave, which was at a small distance; here they found the Chief, who had that day received a present from the Captain; he came forth with his wife and brother, and solicited their clemency. It appeared, that one of the wounded Indians was a brother of this Chief, who was under great anxiety lest the wound should prove mortal; but his grief was in a great degree alleviated, when he was made acquainted with the different effects of small shot and ball; he was at the same time assured, that upon any future hostilities being committed ball would be used. This interview terminated very cordially, after some trifling presents were made to the Chief and his companions.

The prudence of the gentlemen upon this occasion, cannot be much commended. Had these four hundred Indians boldly rushed in upon them at once with their weapons, the musquetry could have done very little execution; but supposing twenty or thirty of the Indians had been wounded, for it does not appear their pieces were loaded with ball, but only small shot, there would have remained a sufficient number to have massacred them, as it appears they do not give any quarter, and none could have been expected upon this occasion. It is true, when the ship brought her broad-side to bear, she might have made great havock amongst the Indians; but this would have been too late to save the party on shore.

Being again in their boats, they rowed to another part of the same island, when landing and gaining an eminence, they had a very agreeable and romantic view of a great number of islands, well inhabited and cultivated. The inhabitants of an adjacent town approached unarmed, and testified great humility and submission. Some of the party on shore, who had been very violent for having the Indians punished for their fraudulent conduct, were now guilty of trespasses equally reprehensible, having forced into some of the plantations, and dug up potatoes. The Captain upon this occasion shewed strict justice in punishing each of the offenders with twelve lashes: one of them being very refractory upon the occasion, and complaining of the hardship, thinking an Englishman had a right to plunder an Indian with impunity, was flogged out of this opinion with six additional lashes. Probably his adding “that in this, he had only followed the example of his superiors,” might have had no little weight in procuring him this last sentence.

It being a dead calm on the 30th, two boats were sent to sound the harbour, and many canoes came up, and traded with great probity: the gentlemen went again on shore, and met with a very civil reception from the natives; and this friendly intercourse continued all the time they remained in the bay, which was several days. Being upon a visit to the old Chief, he shewed them the instruments used in tataowing, which were very like those at Otaheite employed upon the like occasion. They saw the man who had been wounded by the ball, when the attempt was made to carry off the ship’s buoy; and though it had gone through the fleshy part of his arm, it did not seem to give him the least pain or uneasiness.

On Tuesday the 5th, in the morning, they weighed anchor, but were soon becalmed, and a strong current setting towards the shore, they were driven in with such rapidity, that they expected every moment to run upon the breakers, which appeared above water not more than a cable’s length distance; they were so near the land, that Tupia, who was totally ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with the Indians, who were standing on the beach. They were happily relieved, however, from this alarming situation by a fresh breeze, suddenly springing up from the shore.

The bay which they had left was called the _Bay of Islands_, on account of the numerous islands it contains; they catched but few fish while they lay there, but procured great plenty from the natives, who are extremely expert at fishing, and display great ingenuity in the form of their nets, which are made of a kind of grass; they are two or three hundred fathoms in length, and remarkably strong; and they have them in such plenty, that it is scarce possible to go a hundred yards upon the beach, without meeting with numbers lying in heaps. These people did not appear to be under the government of any particular Chief or Sovereign, and they seemed to live in a perfect state of friendship, notwithstanding their villages were fortified. According to their observations upon the tides, the flood comes from the south, and there is a current from the west.

Dec. 7, several canoes put off and followed the Endeavour, but a breeze arising, Captain Cook did not wait for them: on the 8th they tacked, and stood in for the shore: and on the 9th, they were about seven leagues to the westward of the Cavalles, and soon after came to a deep bay, which the Captain named _Doubtless Bay_. The wind prevented their putting in here, and being soon after becalmed, they were visited by several canoes from shore, with whom they trafficked. From these Indians they learnt, they were about two days sail from _Moore Whennua_, where the land changed its shape, and instead of extending to the westward, turned to the south; and that to the north-north-west there was an extensive country, named _Ulimaroah_, where the inhabitants lived upon hogs, which they called _Booah_, and was the same name given them by the inhabitants of the islands in the South Seas. They saw upon the coast several plantations, of the Eaowte, or cloth trees, and some of the Koomarra. They beat to windward four days, and made but little way. On the 10th, the land appeared low and barren, but was not destitute of inhabitants; the next morning, they stood in with the land, which forms a peninsula, and which the Captain named _Knuckle Point_. Another bay, that lies contiguous, Captain Cook called _Sandy Bay_, in the middle of it is a high mountain, which was named _Mount Camel_, on account of its resembling that animal. Several canoes put off, but could not reach the ship, which now tacked and stood to the northward, till the afternoon of the 12th, when she stood to the north-east. Towards night it began to rain and blow, and in the morning it was so tempestuous, as to split the main-top-sail, and the fore mizen-top-sails. Early in the morning of the 14th, they saw land to the southward; and on the 15th, they tacked and stood to the westward; next day they discovered land from the mast-head to the south-south-west; and on the 16th came off the northern extremity of New Zealand, which the Captain called NORTH CAPE. It lies in latitude 34 deg. 22 min. south, longitude 186 deg. 55 min. west, and forms the north point of Sandy Bay. Their situation varied but little till the 24th, when they discovered land, which they judged to be the islands of the Three Kings, though they did not resemble the description of them in Dalrymple’s account. The chief island is in latitude 34 deg. 12 min. south, longitude 187 deg. 48 min west, between fourteen or fifteen leagues from North Cape. Mr. Banks went out in the small boat, and caught some birds that greatly resembled geese, and they were very good eating. On the 27th, it blew very hard from the east all day, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, and they brought the ship under a reef main-sail. On the 30th they saw land, bearing north-east, which was thought to be Cape Maria Van Diemen, but the sea being very boisterous, they did not venture to approach it, but tacked about and stood to the north-west.

January 1, 1770, they tacked and stood to the eastward; and on the 3d they saw land again; it was high and flat, and tended away to the south-east, beyond the reach of the naked eye. It is remarkable, that the Endeavour was three weeks in making ten leagues to the westward, and that she met with a violent gale of wind in latitude 35 deg. south, at Midsummer. On the morning of the 4th they stood along the shore, the coast appearing sandy and barren, dreary and inhospitable; steering northward on the 6th they saw land again, which they imagined to be Cape Maria: on the 7th, they had light breezes, and were sometimes becalmed, when they saw a sun-fish, short and thick in figure, with two large fins, but scarce any tail, resembling a shark in colour and size. They continued steering east till the 9th, when they perceived land, and were soon after a-breast of a point, which Captain Cook named _Woody-head_. From the south-west there is a small island, which the Captain called _Gannet Island_. Another point remarkably high to the east-north-east, the Captain named _Albetross Point_, on the north side of which a bay is formed that promises good anchorage. At about two leagues distance from Albetross Point to the north-east, they discovered a remarkable high mountain, equal in height to that, of Teneriffe, the summit of which was covered with snow, and it was named Mount _Egmont_. It is in latitude 39 deg. 16 min. longitude 185 deg. 15 min. west, and the country round it is pleasant, presenting an agreeable verdure, intersected with woods: the coast forms an extensive cape, which the Captain likewise called cape Egmont, in honour of the nobleman of that name. It is about twenty-seven leagues to the south-south-west of Albetross Point, having two small islands to the north, near a very high point of a conic figure. This day some very heavy showers of rain fell, accompanied with thunder and lightening. The Captain proposed careening the ship here, and taking in wood and water; and accordingly, on the 15th, steered for an inlet; when it being almost a calm, the ship was carried by the current very near the shore, but got clear with the assistance of the boats. Whilst this was doing a sea lion made its appearance; it is a very curious creature, and answers the description given of it in Lord Anson’s Voyage. The Captain sent the pinnace to examine a small cove that appeared, but soon after recalled her, on seeing the natives launch and arm their canoes. The Endeavour anchored in a commodious part of the bay, in sailing towards which spot an Indian town was descried, when the inhabitants waved their hands, seemingly to invite the Endeavour’s people to land. In passing the point of the bay, they observed an armed centinel on duty, who was twice relieved. Four canoes came from shore to visit the ship, but none of the Indians would venture on board, except an old man, who seemed of elevated rank: his countrymen took great pains to prevent his coming on board, but they could not divert him from his purpose, and he was received with the utmost civility and hospitality. Tupia and the old man joined noses, according to the custom of the country, and after receiving several presents, he returned to his associates, when they began to dance and laugh, and soon after retired. The Captain and the other gentlemen now went on shore, where they met with plenty of wood and water, and were very successful in fishing, catching some hundred weight in a short time.

On the 16th the Endeavour’s people were engaged in careening her, when three canoes came off with a great number of Indians, and brought several of their women with them. This circumstance was judged a favourable presage of their peaceable disposition, but they soon gave proofs of the contrary, by attempting to stop the long-boat that was sent on shore for water, when Captain Cook had recourse to the old expedient of firing some shot, which intimidated them for the present; but they soon gave fresh proofs of their insidious designs. One of them snatched some paper from the Endeavour’s people who were trading with them, and brandishing his patoo patoo, put himself in a threatening posture; upon which it was judged expedient to fire some small shot at him, which wounded him in the knee; this step put an end to the correspondence with regard to trade; but Tupia still continued conversing with them, and making many inquiries concerning the curiosities of New Zealand; he also asked them, if they had ever before seen a ship of the magnitude of the Endeavour; to which they replied, they had never seen such a vessel, nor ever heard that one had been upon the coast, though Tasman certainly touched here, which was only fifteen miles south of Murderer’s bay. There is great plenty of fish in all the coves of this bay; among others here are cuttle fish, large breams, small grey breams, small and large baracootas, flying gurnards, horse mackrel, dog fish, soles, dabs, mullets, drums, scorpenas, or rock fish, cole fish, shags, chimeras, &c. The inhabitants catch their fish as follows; their net is cylindrical, extended by several hoops at the bottom, and contracted at the top; the fish going in to feed upon what is put in the net, are caught in great abundance; there are also birds of various kinds, and in great numbers, particularly parrots, wood pigeons, water hens, hawks, and many different singing birds. An herb, a species of _Philadelphus_, was used here instead of tea; and a plant, called Teegoomme, resembling rug cloaks, served the natives for garments. The environs of the cove where the Endeavour lay is covered entirely with wood, and the supple jacks are so numerous, that it is with difficulty passengers can pursue their way; here is a numerous sand-fly that is very disagreeable. The tops of many of the hills are covered with fern. The air of the country is very moist, and has some qualities that promote putrefaction, as birds that had been shot but a few hours were found with maggots in them. The women who accompanied the men in the canoes wore a head-dress, which the gentlemen had no where met with before. It was composed of black feathers, tied in a bunch on the top of the head, which greatly increased its height. The manner of their disposing of their dead is very different to what is practised in the South-sea islands, they tie a large stone to the body, and throw it into the sea: the gentlemen saw the body of a woman which had been disposed of this way, but which by some accident had disengaged itself from the stone, floating upon the water. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the Doctor visited another cove, about two miles from the ship. There was a family of Indians who were greatly alarmed at the approach of the gentlemen, all running away except one; but upon Tupia’s conversing with him the others returned. They found, by the provisions of this family, that they were cannibals, here being several human bones that had been lately dressed and picked; and it appeared, that a short time before, six of their enemies having fallen into their hands, they had killed four and eaten them, and that the other two were drowned in endeavouring to make their escape. They made no secret of this abominable custom, but answered Tupia, who was desired to ascertain the fact, with great composure, that his conjectures were just, that they were the bones of a man, and testified by signs, that they thought human flesh delicious food. Upon being asked, why they had not eaten the body of the woman that had been seen floating upon the water? They replied, she had died of a disorder, and that moreover she was related to them, and they never ate any but their enemies. Upon Mr. Banks’s still testifying some doubts concerning the fact, one of the Indians drew the bone of a man’s arm through his mouth, and this gentleman had the curiosity to bring it away with him. There was a woman in this family whose arms and legs were cut in a shocking manner, and it appeared she had thus wounded herself, because her husband had lately been killed and eaten by the enemy.