Chapter VII: Part 7

The eyes of every one were now fixed on her, who had made so distinguished a figure, in the accounts that had been given by the first discoverers of this island. The person of the queen Oberea was of a large make, and tall; she was about forty years of age, her skin white; her eyes had great expression and meaning in them; she had been handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was soon conducted to the ship, and went on board, accompanied with some of her family. Many presents were made her, particularly a child’s doll, which seemed the most to engross her attention. Captain Cook accompanied her on shore; and as soon as they landed, she presented him with a hog, and some plantains, which were carried to the fort in procession, Oberea and the Captain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though not King, seemed to be at this time invested with a sovereign authority. He immediately became jealous of the Queen’s having the doll; which made them find it necessary to compliment him with one also. A doll now was preferable to a hatchet, though it was not considered so long, as they soon were looked upon as trifles of little or no value.

The ship’s provisions seemed to be very acceptable to the men, but the women were shy of tasting any of them. They were solicited strongly, this day, to dine with the gentlemen; but they refused, and chose to partake of plantains with the servants; a mystery that could not be explained.

On Saturday 29, in the forenoon, Mr. Banks paid a visit to Oberea, who was still asleep under the awning of her canoe, whither he went with an intention of calling her up. Upon entering her chamber, to his great surprise, he found her in bed with a handsome young fellow, about five and twenty; upon which he immediately retired with some precipitation, not a little disconcerted at this discovery; but he was soon given to understand, that such amours were by no means considered scandalous, and that Obadie, the person found in bed with the queen, was by every one known to have been selected by her as the object of her lascivious hours. The queen soon got up and dressed herself to wait upon Mr. Banks. After dressing him in a suit of fine cloth, they proceeded together to the tents. Mr. Banks paid a visit in the evening to Tubora Tumaida, and was greatly surprized to find him and his family all in tears; he in vain attempted to discover the cause, and soon took leave of them. Upon his return he was told by the officers, that Owhaw had foretold that the guns would be fired in four days, and as this was the eve of the third day, they were alarmed at the situation they judged themselves to be in. In consequence of this intelligence they doubled the centries at the fort, and the gentlemen slept under arms. Mr. Banks, about two in the morning, went round the point, but finding every thing as he could wish, he dropt all suspicions of the Indians having hostile intentions, and dwelt quite secure, as the little fortification was now complete.

The next day, Sunday the 30th, Tomio came running to the tents, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, to whom they applied in all emergent cases, told him that Tubora Tumaida was dying, owing to something which had been given him to eat by his people, and prayed him to go instantly to him. Accordingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very sick. He was told, that he had been vomiting, and had thrown up a leaf, which they said contained some of the poison which he had taken. Upon examining the leaf, Mr. Banks found it to be nothing more than tobacco, which the Indian had begged of some of their people. He looked up to Mr. Banks, while he was examining the leaf, as if he had not a moment to live. Mr. Banks, now knowing his disorder, ordered him to drink of cocoa-nut milk, which soon restored him to health, and he was as chearful as ever.

On the 1st of May Captain Cook produced an iron adze, made in imitation of one of their stone ones, which had been brought home by Captain Wallis, and shewed it to Tootahah, who took such a fancy to it, that notwithstanding he was offered the choice of any of the things that were in his chests, he snatched it up with the greatest eagerness, and would accept of nothing else. The same day a Chief, who had dined on board a few days before, accompanied by some of his women, who used to feed him, came on board by himself, and when dinner was on table, the Captain helped him to some victuals, thinking upon this occasion he would condescend to feed himself; but he never attempted to eat, and had not one of the servants fed him, he would certainly have gone without his dinner.

In the afternoon they took the astronomical quadrant, with some other instruments, on shore.

On Tuesday the 2d, having occasion to use the quadrant, to their great astonishment and concern it was missing; this was the more extraordinary, as a centinel had been posted the whole night within a few yards of the tent in which it had been deposited; and it had never been taken out of the case in which it was packed. Their own people were at first suspected, imagining they might have mistaken the contents for articles used in traffic. They searched the fort and the adjacent places, and a considerable reward was offered, as the loss of this instrument would have rendered it impossible for them to have made the necessary observations respecting the Transit, one of the principal objects of their voyage. After every fruitless search had been made, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green, and some other gentlemen, set out for the woods, where he thought he might gain some intelligence of the robbery, if it had been committed by the natives. In the course of their journey they met Tubora Tumaida, with a few of the natives, who was made by signs to understand, that some of his countrymen had stolen the quadrant, and Mr. Banks insisted upon being conducted to the place where it was concealed. Accordingly they proceeded together a few miles, and, after some enquiry, Tubora Tumaida received information of the thief, and that he was to be found at a place about four miles distant; as they had no other arms but a brace of pistols, and the spot for which they were destined was at so considerable a distance from the fort, they were not without some apprehensions of danger. They accordingly dispatched one of their company to Captain Cook, desiring him to forward another party after them; having laid an embargo upon all the canoes in the bay; a party accordingly set out, with the Captain at their head.

Mr. Banks and Mr. Green in the interim pursued their route, and at the very place which had been mentioned were met by one of Tubora Tumaida’s own people, with part of the quadrant; soon afterwards the box in which it had been packed, containing the other parts of it, was recovered; and, upon examination, though it had been taken to pieces, they had the satisfaction to find it had received no material injury.

In the evening, when Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen, with Tubora Tumaida, returned, they were very much surprized to find Tootahah confined in the fort, the gate of which was surrounded by the natives, who expressed the utmost dread and anxiety on the occasion, as they had no other expectation but it was intended to put him to death.

Upon enquiry into this affair, it appeared that the Indians were so much alarmed at Captain Cook’s going up into the country with a party of armed men, that in the evening most of them forsook their habitations near the fort; a canoe likewise attempted to leave the bay, which the Lieutenant, who commanded on board the ship, and had been ordered not to permit any canoe to go out, perceiving, dispatched a boat to detain her, but she no sooner came near them than they jumped into the sea; among this unfortunate number was Tootahah, who, being taken up, was sent by the Lieutenant to the fort; and the commanding officer thought it his duty to detain him.

He could not be persuaded that he was not to be put to death, till Captain Cook gave orders for him to be conducted out of the fort. He was received with great affection by the people, every one pressing forward to embrace him.

On Wednesday the 3d, in the morning, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander attended as usual to purchase provisions, but the Indians brought nothing to market; nor could they procure any from some fishing-boats which came a-breast of the tents, though they were in great want of cocoa-nuts and bread fruit. Mr. Banks walked into the woods, and heard great complaints from the people of the ill treatment of their Chief, who they said had been beaten, and otherwise ill used, of which Mr. Banks declared he was totally ignorant. The hogs which he had left as a present, were sent for back by the Chief, which, probably, he was of opinion they had ill-deserved. However, they would not send them till he came himself, by which means they thought to procure a reconciliation, knowing that absence would promote that coolness between them, to which the first interview might put an end, especially as they were told, the Chief did not intend coming to the fort for near a fortnight.

Their provisions now were extremely scarce, and the markets ill supplied, the people resenting the ill usage their Chief had received. The next day, with some difficulty, Mr. Banks obtained a few baskets of bread-fruit from Tubora Tumaida in the woods, which were a very seasonable relief. An axe and shirt were sent for this day by Tootahah, in return for his two hogs which they promised to bring him the next day. If they had not complied with this request, they could have scarcely procured any provisions.

After his sending again early in the morning, on Friday 5, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with the Captain, set out in the pinnace, taking one of Tootahah’s people with them, they soon reached Eparre, the place where he dwelt, which was but a few miles to the west of the tents.

Upon their arrival, they found great numbers of people upon the shore waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the Chief, whilst the people shouted round them, _Taio Tootahah_, “Tootahah is your friend;” they found him sitting under a tree, and some old men standing round him. As soon as he had made signs for them to sit down, he asked for his axe, which Captain Cook presented to him, with a shirt and a broad cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly pleased; and put the garment on. After eating a mouthful together in the boat, they were conducted to a large area, or court-yard, on one side of his house, where an entertainment was provided for them, consisting of wrestling. The Chief sat at the upper end of the area, with several of his principal men on each side of him, by way of judges, from whom the conquerors received applause.

Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple ceremonies of challenging each other, they engaged, endeavouring to throw one another by dint of strength; then seizing hold of each other by the thigh, the hand, the hair, or the cloaths, they grappled without the least art, till one was thrown on his back; this conquest was applauded by some words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one engagement succeeded another, but if they could not throw each other during the space of a minute, they parted either by consent, or the intervention of their friends. Several women of rank were present; but it was thought, they would not have attended this amusement, only in compliment to the English gentlemen.

A man with a stick, who made way for them when they landed, officiated here as master of the ceremonies, keeping order among the people.

When this entertainment was at an end, they were informed, that some hogs and a quantity of bread-fruit were preparing for their dinner; which intelligence was the more agreeable, as their appetites were at this time exceedingly keen. But instead of dining either on shore or on board of the boat, they had the mortification of going as far as the ship by the desire of the Chief.

As soon as the Chief was known to be on board the ship, the people brought plenty of bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, and other provisions to the fort.

On Monday 8, early in the morning, Mr. Molineux, the Master, and Mr. Green, set out in the pinnace to the eastward, in order to procure some hogs or poultry; but after proceeding a considerable way, and seeing many hogs and a turtle, they could not purchase either. They belonged to Tootahah, and the people told them, that they could not sell them without his consent; so absolute was the power of this man.

They were now obliged, for the first time, to bring out their nails to purchase provisions; for one of the smallest size, they obtained near twenty cocoa-nuts and some bread-fruit, so that they soon got great plenty.

On Tuesday 9, in the forenoon, Oberea paid them a visit, accompanied by her favourite Obadee; she presented them with a hog and some bread-fruit.

The forge being now set up and frequently at work, became not only a new subject of admiration to the Indians, but afforded the Captain an additional opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by permitting the smith, during his leisure hours, to convert the old iron, which they were supposed to have procured from the Dolphin, into different kinds of tools.

The natives, after repeated attempts, finding themselves incapable of pronouncing the names of the English gentlemen, had recourse to new ones formed from their own language, Mr. Cook was named Toote; Hicks, Hete; Gore, Touara; Solander, Tolano; Banks, Opane; Green, Treene; and so on for the greatest part of the ship’s crew.

As Mr. Banks was sitting in his boat, trading with them as usual, on Friday the 12th, a very extraordinary ceremony was performed by some ladies who were strangers, to whom the rest of the Indians giving way on each side, and forming a passage, they advanced in procession towards Mr. Banks, to whom they presented some parrots feathers, plantains, and other plants. They then brought a large bundle of cloth, consisting of nine pieces, which being divided into three parcels, one of the women, who appeared to be the principal, stepping on one of the parcels, pulled up all her cloaths as high as her waist, and then, with an air of unaffected simplicity, turned round three times. This ceremony she repeated in the same manner on the other two parcels of cloth, and the whole being then presented to Mr. Banks, the ladies went and saluted him; in return for which he made them such presents as he thought would gratify them the most.

The next evening Mr. Banks was under the disagreeable necessity of reprimanding, in very strong terms, Tubora Tumaida, for having the insolence to snatch his gun from him, and firing it in the air; a thing which surprised Mr. Banks greatly, as he imagined him totally ignorant of the use of it. And as their safety in a great measure depended on keeping them in that state, he told him, with threats, that his touching his piece was the greatest of insults. The Indian made no reply, but set off with his family to his house at Eparre. He being an useful man, Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Molineux, thought fit to go after him, and they found him among a number of people, greatly dejected. However, as Mr. Banks judiciously caused all animosity to cease, they brought him back to supper; after which the Chief and his wife both slept in Mr. Banks’s tent. One of the natives, not intimidated by their presence, attempted that very evening to scale the walls of the fort, but was prevented by the centinel. These Indians could not resist making attempts to steal the iron and iron tools within the works.

Sunday morning the 14th, divine service was performed at the fort, in hopes that some of the principal Indians might be present, but most of them returned home before the time. However, Tubora Tumaida, and his wife Tomio, were present; they behaved with great decency, but without the least apparent curiosity. They made no enquiries with respect to the ceremonies, and their brethren were as little inquisitive upon their return. This evening several of their people were witnesses to an entertainment of a very extraordinary nature, which consisted of the most indecent acts of lewdness. For example, a young fellow cohabited in public with a girl about eleven or twelve years of age, without the least sense of shame; and what is still more extraordinary, Oberea, with several other females of the first rank, were present during the whole time.

On Monday the 15th, Mr. Banks detected Tubora Tumaida in having stolen some nails. Mr. Banks having a good opinion of this Chief, was willing to put his fidelity to the test, and several temptations were thrown in his way, among the rest a basket of nails, which proved irresistible. He confessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks’s insisting upon restitution, he declared the nails were at Eparre; this occasioned high words, and at length the Indian produced one of them. He was to have been forgiven upon restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his engagement, he fled with his furniture and family before night.

On the 17th, one of the natives who came in the morning before day-light to steal some casks, it not being the first offence, the centinel snapped his gun at him, but it missing fire he escaped.

On Wednesday 24, Tootahah having sent many messages to request a visit from the Captain, declaring that he would acknowledge the compliment by a present of some hogs. Mr. Hicks the first Lieutenant was sent, in hopes of getting the hogs without the visit. He was received in a very friendly manner at a place called Tettehah, five miles farther to the westward, where Tootahah had taken up his residence. He brought away one hog only, which had been produced immediately upon his arrival, with a promise of receiving more the next morning; but, when morning came, he was obliged to depart without them. Mr. Banks, on the 25th, seeing Tubora and his wife Tomio at the tent, for the first time after he stole the nails, endeavoured to persuade him to restore them, but in vain. He was treated with great coolness during his short stay, and his departure was very abrupt.

On the 27th of May, Tootahah being removed to a place called _Atahourou_, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set out in the pinnace to pay him a visit; after making presents of a few trifling articles, they were invited to stay the night. Mr. Banks having accepted of a place in Oberea’s canoe, left his companions, in order to retire to rest. Notwithstanding the care Oberea took of his cloaths, by having them in her own custody, they were stolen with his pistols, powder-horn, and many other things that were in his waist-coat pockets. The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slept in the next canoe, and who went with Oberea in search of the thief, leaving Mr. Banks with only his breeches on, and his musquet uncharged. They soon returned, but without success; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss for the present, and a second time endeavour to sleep. But he had scarce composed himself, before he heard some musick, and perceived lights at a small distance from shore; this proved to be a concert, which they call Heiva. Mr. Banks judged it then necessary to get up and try to find his companions. As soon as he approached the lights, he found the hut, where Mr. Cook and three of his associates lay, and began to relate his melancholy tale; but instead of receiving much comfort from them, he was told, that they had shared the same fate, having lost their stockings and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out the concert, which consisted of drums, flutes, and several voices, after which they retired to rest.

The next morning Mr. Banks got his musquet from Tupia, with whom he had intrusted it, and some cloaths from Oberea; in which he made a whimsical appearance. They then got together, and were joined by Dr. Solander, who was the only one among them that had not been robbed, having slept at a house about a mile distant. As to the others they were obliged to put up with their loss; their cloaths, &c. having never been heard of afterwards. They set out for the boat not very well pleased, carrying with them only one hog, which had been intended for their supper the night before.

In their return to the boat, they were greatly amused by seeing some Indians swimming for their diversion, amidst a surf, which no European boat could have lived in, or the best swimmer in Europe have saved himself from drowning, had he by accident been exposed to its fury. This extraordinary surf breaks upon the shore in a few places, where access to the island is not guarded by a reef, and makes it very dreadful and dangerous.

Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to which Captain Wallis gave the name of DUKE OF YORK’S ISLAND, informed them of more than twenty islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite.

They now began to make necessary preparations for observing the Transit of Venus, and, from the hints Mr. Cook had received from the Royal Society, he sent out two parties to make observations from different spots, that in case they failed at Otaheite, they might succeed elsewhere; they employed themselves in preparing their instruments, and instructing such gentlemen with the use of them, as were to go out. And on Thursday the 1st of June, the next Saturday being the day of the Transit, they sent the long boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks; each furnished with necessary instruments by Mr. Green. Mr. Banks and several of the Indians went out with this party. Others were dispatched to find out a convenient spot, at such a distance from their principal station, as might suit their purpose.

Those who went to Eimayo in the long boat, after rowing the best part of the night, by the help of some Indians aboard a canoe, which they hailed, found a proper situation for their Observatory upon a rock, which rose out of the water about one hundred and forty yards from the shore, where they fixed their tents, and prepared the apparatus for the following day’s observation.

On Saturday the 3d, as soon as it was light, Mr. Banks left them to go to the island for fresh provisions. As he was trading with the natives who belonged to Tarrao, the King of the island, his majesty arrived with his sister, whose name was Nuna, in order to pay him a visit. It being customary among these people to be seated during their conferences, Mr. Banks spread on the ground his Indian cloth turban, that he wore instead of a hat, on which they all sat down. After this the royal present was brought, consisting of a hog and a dog, some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. A messenger was dispatched by Mr. Banks for an adze, a shirt, and some beads, and they were presented to his majesty, who received them with great pleasure. Tubora Tumaida and Tomio, Indians who had gone with Mr. Banks upon the expedition, came from the Observatory: Tomio, said to be related to Tarrao, brought him a long nail, and a shirt for Nuna, by way of presents. Mr. Banks returned to the Observatory with Tarrao, Nuna, and three beautiful young women, their chief attendants. He shewed them the Transit of Venus over the Sun, and informed them, that he and his companions had come from their own country solely to view it in that situation.

The produce of this island, according to the inspection of Mr. Banks, proved to be much the same as that of Otaheite, the people also resembling those of that island, many of them he had seen upon it, who were well acquainted with the value of the trading articles.

Both the parties which were sent out, made their observation with great success. They nevertheless differed in the accounts of the times of the contacts more than might have been imagined.

Mr. Green’s Account was as follows.

Hours Min. Sec.
The first external contact, or first
appearance of Venus on the Sun, was 9 25 4 Morning.
The first internal contact or total
immersion was 9 44 4 Morning.
The second internal contact, or
beginning of the immersion 3 14 8 Afternoon.
The second external contact, or total
immersion 3 32 10 Afternoon.

Latitude of the Observatory 17° 29′ 15″.
Longitude 149° 32′ 30″ W. of Greenwich.

While they were viewing the Transit of Venus, some of the ship’s company broke into one of the store-rooms, and stole a quantity of spike-nails. As the circulation of these nails might have been greatly detrimental to them, strict search was made, and one of the thieves was detected. He had only a few in his custody; but was however punished with two dozen lashes.

The death of an old woman of some distinction gave them an opportunity of observing the manner of the Indians disposing of their dead, whom they never bury. The kind of bier, on which the corpse is deposited, has already been described, and the bread-fruit, &c. placed as before, which Tubora Tumaida informed Mr. Banks was deposited as an offering to their Gods. A sort of stile was placed in the front of the square, where the relations of the deceased stood to testify their sorrow; beneath the awning were several pieces of cloth, on which were the tears and blood of the mourners, for upon these occasions they wound themselves with a shark’s tooth. At a small distance two temporary houses were erected, in one of which some of the relations of the deceased constantly remained, and in the other the chief mourner resided, who was dressed in a peculiar manner, to perform a particular ceremony. After the corpse is rotten, the bones are buried near the spot. It was afterwards discovered, that these repositories of the dead were used also for religious worship.

There having been a scarcity of bread-fruit for some days, an enquiry was made of the cause, and the reasons the Indians gave was, that there being a great crop, the fruit had been gathered to make a sort of sour paste, which the natives call _Mahie_, which, after fermentation, will keep a long time, and supply them in times of dearth.

The funeral ceremony, in honour of the old woman, was performed on the 10th by the chief mourner, and Mr. Banks was so desirous to be a spectator, that he agreed to take a part in the performance of this ceremony, being informed, that he could not be present on any other condition. He accordingly went in the evening to the place where the body was deposited, there he was met by the relations of the deceased, and afterwards joined by several other persons. The chief mourner was Tubora Tumaida; his dress was whimsical, though not altogether ungrateful. Mr. Banks was obliged to quit his European dress, and he had no other covering than a small piece of cloth, which was tied round his middle; his body was then blacked with charcoal and water, as were the bodies of several others, particularly some females, who were as little covered as himself; the procession then began. The chief mourner uttered some words, that were judged to be a prayer, when he approached the body; and he repeated it as he came up to his own house. After this the procession went on, by permission, towards the fort. It is usual for the Indians to shun these processions as much as possible; they accordingly ran into the woods in great haste, as soon at it came in view. From the fort it proceeded along the shore. Having crossed the river, it entered the woods, passing several houses, which became immediately uninhabited; and, during the rest of the procession, which continued above half an hour, not a single Indian was visible, Mr. Banks filled an office they called _Nineveh_, and there were two others in the same character. When none of the other natives were to be seen, they approached the chief mourner, saying, _imatata_; then those who had assisted at the ceremony bathed in the river, and resumed their customary dress.

Such was this uncommon ceremony, in which Mr. Banks performed a capital part, and met with the applause of Tubora Tumaida, the chief mourner.

Complaint was made on Monday the 12th to the Captain, that the Indians had lost some bows and arrows, and strings of plaited hair; the affair was enquired into, and the fact being well attested, two dozen lashes were inflicted upon each of the criminals.

The bows and arrows of the Indians have not hitherto been noticed; but this day Tubora Tumaida brought his hither, occasioned by a challenge he had received from Mr. Gore. The Indian Chief imagined it was a trial of skill who could shoot the farthest; but Mr. Gore proposed shooting at a mark. The mistake being soon discovered, the champions declined the trial. The Indian, however, to display his skill, drew his bow, and sent an arrow, unfeathered, as they all were, nearly the sixth part of a mile. They shoot kneeling, and drop the bow the instant the arrow is discharged.

In this morning’s excursion, Mr. Banks met several of the natives, who were itinerant musicians, and the place of the evening’s rendezvous being known, all the English gentlemen went thither to partake of the diversion. Their instruments were flutes and drums, and a great number of the Indians were got together upon the occasion. The drummers sung to the music, and to the astonishment of Mr. Banks and the rest of his companions they found, that they were the chief subject of the minstrels lays. These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, the rewards whereof were such necessaries as they required.

An iron coal rake for the oven being stole in the night of the 14th, and many other things having at different times been taken by the Indians, the Captain judged it of some consequence, if possible, to put an end to these practices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He had already given strict orders, that the centinels should not fire upon them, even if they were detected in the fact. About twenty-seven of their double canoes with sails were just come in with cargoes of fish, which the Captain seized, and then gave notice, that unless the rake, and all the other things, which had at different times been stolen, were returned, the vessels should be burnt. The Captain had, indeed, no such design, as will appear by the event. The menace produced no other effect than the restitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in their possession; at length the Captain thought proper to give up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress for want of them; and at last, to prevent confusion, from the difficulty of ascertaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promised also to release the canoes.

About this time another event had nearly involved the English in a quarrel with the Indians. The Captain having sent a boat on shore to get ballast, the officer not meeting immediately with what he wanted, began to pull down one of their sepulchral buildings: this measure was strenuously opposed by the Indians. Mr. Banks, having received intelligence of the affair, repaired to the spot, and the matter was soon amicably terminated, there being stones sufficient found elsewhere. This was the only opposition they had, hitherto, made, and the only personal insult received (besides the affair of the musket at the tent, for which the Indian forfeited his life) was by Mr. Monkhouse, who having pulled a flower within one of their burial inclosures, was struck by an Indian; the gentleman laid hold of him, but he was rescued by two more, who pulling Mr. Monkhouse’s hair forced him to quit his hold, after which they all ran off.

On the 19th in the evening, soon after dark, while the canoes were detained by the Captain, Oberea the Queen, and several of her attendants, paid the gentlemen a visit; she came from Tootahah’s palace, in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread-fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog; but none of the things that had been stolen; those she pleaded had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for which she had beaten him. She did not, however, seem to think her story deserved credit, but appeared at first much terrified, though she surmounted her fears with great fortitude; and was desirous of sleeping with her attendants in Mr. Bank’s tent; but this being refused, she was obliged to pass the night in her canoe. The Captain declined accepting of her presents, at which she seemed very sorrowful. Mr. Banks and the rest of the gentlemen retired to bed, and a whole tribe of the Indians would have slept in the bell-tent, but were not permitted.

The next morning the Queen returned to the fort, and Captain Cook having altered his mind accepted of her presents. Two of her attendants were very earnest in getting themselves husbands, in which they succeeded, by means of the Surgeon and one of the Lieutenants: they seemed very agreeable till bed-time, and determined to lie in Mr. Banks’s tent, which they accordingly did, till the Surgeon having some words with one of them Mr. Banks thrust her out, and she was followed by the rest, except Otea Tea, who cried for some time, till he turned her out also. This had like to have become a serious affair, a duel being talked of between Mr. Banks and Mr. Monkhouse, but it was happily avoided. Dogs are esteemed here more delicate eating than pork; as those bred to be eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon vegetables; and the experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dress him, which he did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed by every one to be a very good dish.

They were visited on the 21st at the fort by many of the natives, who brought various kinds of presents, and among the rest Oamo, a Chief of several districts on the island, whom they had never before seen, who brought with him a hog. This Chief was treated with great respect by the natives, and was accompanied by a boy, and a young woman. The boy was carried upon a man’s back, though he was very able to walk. Oberea and some other of the Indians went out of the fort to meet them, their heads and bodies being first uncovered as low as the waist. This was considered as a mark of respect, they had not noticed it before, but judged it was usually shewn to persons of distinguished rank among them. Oamo entered the tent, but the young woman, who was about sixteen, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him, tho’ she seemed to combat with her curiosity and inclination. Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand, and conducted him in; but the natives without, who had prevented the girl’s entrance, soon found means to get him out again.

The curiosity of Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen being excited from these circumstances, they made enquiry, who these strangers were, and were informed, that Oamo was Oberea’s husband, but that by mutual consent they had been for a considerable time separated; and that the youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named _Terridiri_, and was heir apparent to the sovereignty of the island; and he was to espouse his sister as soon as he had attained the proper age. The present sovereign being a minor, called OUTOU, and son of Whappai; Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers; Whappai was the senior, and Oamo the next; wherefore, Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, son of Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. To us it will appear singular, that a boy should reign during the life of his father; but in the island of Otaheite, a boy succeeds to his father’s authority and title as soon as he is born; when a regent is elected, which office usually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes of age: at this time, however, the election had fallen upon his uncle Tootahah, on account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquisitive with respect to the English, and by his questions he appeared a man of understanding and penetration.

A woman called Teetee, who came from the west of the island, presented to the Captain an elegant garment, of a bright yellow ground, bordered with red, and in the middle of it were several crosses, which they had probably learned from the French.

On the 23d in the morning, one of their hands being missing, they enquired for him among the natives, and were told that he was at Eparre, Tootahah’s residence in the wood; and one of the Indians offered to fetch him back, which he did that evening. On his return he informed them, that he had been taken from the fort, and carried to the top of the bay, by three men, who having stripped him, forced him into a canoe, and conducted him to Eparre, where he received some cloaths from Tootahah, who endeavoured to prevail on him to continue there. They had great reason to suppose this account true, for the natives were no sooner acquainted with his return, than they left the fort with much precipitation.

Monday June 26, early in the morning, the Captain set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. They sailed to the eastward, and in the forenoon they went on shore, in a part of the island under the government of Ahio, a young Chief, who had often visited them at the tents. They also found here some other natives of their acquaintance. They then proceeded together to the harbour, wherein M. Bougainville lay when he visited this island, and were shewn the ground on which he fixed his tent, and the watering-place. They also met with _Orette_, a Chief, who was their particular friend, whose brother went away with M. Bougainville.

Having taken a survey of this harbour, and a large bay near which it is situated, they proposed going to the opposite side of the bay, but Titubaola, who was their conductor, not only refused to accompany them, but endeavoured to dissuade the Captain and Mr. Banks from going, saying, “That country was inhabited by people who were not subjects to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.” This information did not, however, prevent the execution of their design; and upon loading their pieces with ball, Titubaola took courage to go with them; they rowed till it was dark, when they reached a narrow neck of land, that divided the island into two peninsulas, which are distinct governments. As they were not yet got into the hostile part of the country, they agreed to spend the night on shore, where they were provided with supper and lodging by Ooratooa, the lady who paid her compliments to Mr. Banks in so remarkable a manner at the fort.

In the morning they pursued their passage for the other government.

They landed in a district, which was governed by a Chief, named MARAITATA, the _burying place of men_, and his father was called PAHAIREDE, _the stealer of boats_. Notwithstanding their names were so ominous, they gave the Captain and Mr. Banks a very civil reception; furnished them with provisions, and sold them a large hog for a hatchet. The curiosity of the natives was soon excited, and a crowd gathered round the English gentlemen, but they saw only two people whom they knew, neither did they observe any trinkets that had come out of the Endeavour, though they met with several European commodities, particularly two twelve pound shot, one of which had the English broad arrow upon it, though the Indians said they had them from M. Bougainville’s people. They then advanced till they reached the district, which was under the dominion of the principal Chief, or King, named _Waheatua_, who had a son, but it was not known in whose hands the sovereign power was lodged. Here they found a spacious verdant plain, watered by a river of so great a width, that they were obliged to pass it in a canoe, but their Indian followers swam over it with the greatest facility. There was no house that appeared inhabited; but the ruins of several large ones. Having continued their journey along the shore for a considerable way, they at last saw the Chief, and with him an agreeable young woman about two and twenty, named Toudidde. They were not unacquainted with her name, as they had often heard it mentioned by the natives; and they had great reason to suppose she was the Queen of this peninsula.

In passing through this part of the island, they found it better cultivated, and more improved than any they had hitherto met with; though the houses were but few, and those very small, but there were a great number of canoes which excelled any they had seen, both in size and workmanship. The burial places were likewise numerous, being found not only at every point, but at different places in the interior parts of the island. These buildings nearly resembled, in form, those which they had seen at Opouroenu, but they were neater, and adorned with carvings of various figures; in one there was a cock, which was painted in imitation of the natural colour of the feathers of that bird. Notwithstanding the fertility of the country, and its being well cultivated, scarce any bread-fruit was to be met with, and the inhabitants subsisted chiefly upon a nut, called _abee_.

Finding themselves fatigued, they now took to their boat, and in the evening landed on an island named Otooareite; being in want of some refreshment, Mr. Banks went into the woods to try what he could obtain, but it being dark, he met with no inhabitants and but one house, in which he found only a bread-fruit, and a few of the nuts before-mentioned; nor were they more successful in procuring provisions the next morning.

Towards the southermost part of the island they found a good harbour, formed by a reef, and the circumjacent country is remarkably fruitful. At about three miles distant they landed, at a place where they found several of the natives, with whom they were intimately acquainted. After having, with a good deal of difficulty, obtained some cocoa-nuts, they again embarked.

They landed again a little further to the east. Mathiabo, the Chief, with whom they had no acquaintance, nor had ever seen before, soon came to them, and supplied them with cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit. They also purchased a hog of him for a glass bottle, which he took in preference to every other thing that was offered him. They saw here a turkey cock and a goose which the Dolphin left on the island, they were remarkably fat, and seemed to be greatly admired by the Indians.

A very uncommon sight presented itself in a house near this place, several human jaw-bones were fastened to a board of a semicircular form; they seemed fresh, and had not lost any of their teeth; but Mr. Banks could obtain no explanation of this mystery. Upon their quitting the place, the Chief accompanied them, and piloted them over the shoals. They opened the bay in the evening, on the north-west side of the island, which corresponded with that on the south-east, in such a manner, as to intersect the island at the isthmus.

Several canoes came off here with some very beautiful women, who appeared to be desirous of their going on shore, to which they readily assented. They met with a very friendly reception from the Chief, whose name was Wiverou, who gave directions to some of his people to assist them in dressing their provisions, which were now very plentiful, and they supped at Wiverou’s house, in company with Mathiabo. Part of the house was allotted for them to sleep in, and soon after supper they retired to rest. Mathiabo having obtained a cloak from Mr. Banks, under pretence of using it as a cover-let when he lay down, immediately made off with it, unperceived by that gentleman or his companions. News however of the robbery was soon brought them by one of the natives; in consequence of which intelligence they sat out in pursuit of the thief, but had proceeded a very little way before they were met by a person bringing back the cloak, which Mathiabo had given up through fear.

The house, upon their return, was entirely deserted, and about four in the morning the centinel gave the alarm, that the boat was missing. Mr. Banks and the Captain were greatly astonished at this account, and ran to the water-side, but though the morning was clear and star-light, no boat was visible. Their situation was now extremely terrifying: the party consisting of but four, with a single musket and two pocket pistols, without a spare ball or a charge of powder. After remaining in this distressful state of anxiety for a considerable time, dreading the advantage the Indians would take of it, to their great joy, the boat, which had been driven away by the tide, returned; Mr. Banks and his companions no sooner breakfasted than they departed. This place is situated on the north side of Tiarrabou, the south-east peninsula of the island, about five miles east from the isthmus, with a harbour equal to any in the island. It was fertile and populous, and the inhabitants every where behaved with civility. The last district in Tiarrabou, in which they landed, was governed by a Chief, named Omoe. He was building a house, and was very desirous of purchasing a hatchet, but Mr. Banks and the Captain had not one left. He would not trade for nails, and they embarked; the Chief following them in a canoe with his wife, in hopes of obtaining something useful to him. The Chief and his wife were afterwards taken on board, and after having gone about three miles, they desired to be put on shore, and their request was complied with, when the Captain met with some of Omoe’s people, who had brought with them a very large hog. The Chief agreed to exchange the hog for a large axe and a nail, and to bring the beast to the fort in Port Royal Bay. This resolution he came to after consulting with his wife; and Mr. Banks judged the exchange to be very advantageous to the English, as the hog was a remarkable fine one.

At this place they saw one of their Eatuas, or Gods, it was made of wicker-work, and resembled the figure of a man; it was near seven feet in height, and was covered with black and white feathers; on the head were four protuberances, which the natives called _Tate ete_, or little men.

Having taken their leave of Omoe, they set out on their return; after rowing a few miles, they went on shore again, but saw nothing remarkable except a sepulchral building, which was ornamented in an extraordinary manner. The pavement, on which was built a pyramid, was very neat; at a little distance there was an image of stone, very uncouthly carved, which the natives seemed to hold in a great estimation.

They passed through the harbour, which was the only one fit for shipping, on the south of Opoureonu, situated about five miles to the westward of the isthmus, between two small islands not far from shore, and within a mile of each other. They were now near the district, named Paparra, which was governed by Oamo and Oberea, where they intended to spend the night. Mr. Banks and his company landed about an hour before it was dark, and found that they were both set out to pay them a visit at the fort. They nevertheless slept at the house of Oberea, which, though not large, was very neat; no inhabitant but her father was now in possession of it, who shewed them much civility. They took this opportunity of walking out to a point, upon which they had observed, at a distance, some trees, called Etoa, which usually grow on the burial-places of these people. They call these burying-grounds Morai, which are also places of worship. They here saw an immense edifice, which they found to be the Morai of Oamo and Oberea, which was by far the most considerable piece of architecture to be found in the island.

It consisted of an enormous pile of stone work, raised in the form of a pyramid, with a flight of steps on each side, something after the manner of those little buildings, which are commonly erected in England to place the pillars of sun dials upon; it was near two hundred and seventy feet long, and about one-third as wide, and between forty and fifty feet high.

The foundation consisted of rock-stones, the steps of coral, and the upper part of round pebbles, all of the same shape and size; the rock and coral-stones were squared with the utmost neatness and regularity, and the whole building appeared as compact and firm, as if it had been erected by the best workmen in Europe. As the Indians were totally destitute of iron utensils to shape their stones, as well as mortar to cement them, when they had made them fit for use, a structure of such heighth and magnitude, must have been a work of infinite labour and fatigue.

In the center of the summit was the representation of a bird, carved in wood; close to this was the figure of a fish; which was in stone. This pyramid made part of one side of a wide court or square, the sides of which were nearly equal; the whole was walled in, and paved with flat stones. Within this place grew (notwithstanding it was in this manner paved) several plantains, and trees which the natives call Etoa. At a little distance to the west of this edifice was another paved square, which contained several small stages, called by the natives Ewattas, which appeared to be altars; upon them they place provisions, as sacrifices to their gods: Mr. Banks afterwards observed whole hogs placed upon these ewattas, or altars.

The inhabitants of the island of Otaheite seem in nothing so desirous of excelling each other as in the grandeur and magnificence of their sepulchres; and the rank and authority of Oberea was forcibly evinced upon this occasion. The gentlemen of the Endeavour, it has been observed, did not find Oberea possessed of the same power, as when the Dolphin was at this place, and they were now informed of the cause. The way from her house to the Morai, was by the sea-side, and they observed, in all places as they passed along, a great number of human bones. Inquiry being made into the cause of this extraordinary sight, they were informed, that about four or five months before Captain Cook’s arrival, the inhabitants of Tiarrabou, the peninsula to the south-east, made a descent here, and slew many of the people, whose bones were those that were seen upon the coast: that hereupon Oberea and Oamo, who then held the government for his son, had fled and taken refuge in the mountains; and that the victors destroyed all the houses, and pillaged the country. Mr. Banks was also informed, that the turkey and goose which he had seen in the district of Mathiabo, were among the booty; this afforded a reason for their being found where the Dolphin had little or no correspondence; and the jaw-bones, being mentioned, which had been seen hanging in a house, he was informed, that they had likewise been carried off as trophies. The jaw-bones of their enemies being considered by the natives of this island, as great a mark of triumph, as scalps are by the Indians of North America.