Chapter II: Part 2

They now sailed westward, and soon discovered another island, distant four leagues. The natives pursued them in two large double canoes, in each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the boats were at a considerable way to leeward of the ships, and were chaced by the canoes; on which the Commodore making a signal, the boats turned towards the Indians, who instantly pulled down their sails, and rowed away with great rapidity: they drove through the violent surf on the shore, and were followed by the boats; when, apprehending the invasion of their country, they armed themselves with stones and clubs; on which the boat’s crew fired, and killed two or three of them, one of whom died as he was throwing a stone at his enemy, after three balls had gone thro’ his body[1]. This poor fellow dropping close to the boats, his body was brought to the ship; but the Indians carried off the rest of their companions. The boats carried the two canoes with them, as the trophies of their scandalous victory. These vessels consisted of planks sewed together, with a strip of tortoiseshell fixed over each seam: they had sharp bottoms, and were very narrow; and two of them were fastened a-longside each other by two timbers, which left a space of full six feet between the canoes: a sail, made of neat matting, passed from one vessel to the other, being fixed to a mast which was hoisted in each of them: when they sail, several men sit on the timbers which lay from boat to boat: their cordage appeared to be formed of the outer covering of the cocoa-nut, and was exquisitely well made.

[1] Horrid, wanton murder!--If discoveries are to be purchased at such
a price, the southern hemisphere had better have remained unknown.

As no refreshments could be obtained, owing to the violence of the surf, the Commodore returned to his former station at the inlet, and again sent the boats in search of an anchoring-place. A number of the Indians were on the spot where he had left them, and were loading some large canoes, most probably to attack the boats; on which a shot was fired over their heads, and they instantly ran away and secreted themselves. The boats returned in the evening, with a few cocoa-nuts; and in the morning were sent out again, with all the invalids who were able to go in them. The Commodore went on shore this day, and saw many Indian huts, which were covered with the branches of the cocoa-nut-tree: they were mean buildings, but finely situated among groves of lofty trees. The men went naked; but some women were seen, who wore a kind of cloth from the waist to the knee. The shore abounded with coral, and the shells of large pearl oysters; and ’tis probable a valuable pearl-fishery might be established here. There were many dogs in the huts, who kept barking constantly till our adventurers went on board.

The next day the seamen found, in one of the huts, the carved head of a rudder, which had evidently belonged to a Dutch long boat: they likewise found a piece of brass, another of iron, and some iron tools; but by whom these things were left is wholly unknown.

The burial-places of the natives were under high trees, near their houses; and their tombs consisted of flat stones, laid on perpendicular side stones, like those in the church-yards of England. On the branches which shaded these repositories hung baskets of reeds, containing the heads and bones of turtle and other fish, and near the graves were several boxes filled with human bones.

The flies on this island were extremely troublesome, but no venomous creature was seen. Parrots and other birds were very plentiful, and they saw some beautiful doves, so tame as to follow them into the huts of the Indians. The water of the island is good, and the surface of the ground is almost covered with scurvy-grass. This part of the island is situated in 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and 148 degrees 50 minutes west.

On Wednesday, June the 12th, they sailed to another island, and as they coasted along it, the natives, armed as those of the other islands, kept even with the ship for some leagues. They frequently plunged into the sea, or fell on the sand, that the surf might break over them, to cool and refresh themselves. The boats being near the shore, the crew made signs that they were in want of water; on which the natives pointed farther along the shore, where, when the boats arrived, they saw a number of houses, and whither they were followed by the Indians, many more of whom joined them at this place. The boats having got close in shore, and the ships laying at a small distance, a venerable old man, with a white beard, advanced from the houses to the beach, attended by a young fellow. Having made a signal for the other Indians to retire, he came forward to the edge of the water, pressing his beard to his breast with one hand, and holding a branch of a tree in the other. He now made a kind of musical oration, during which the people in the boat threw him some trifling presents, which he would neither take up, nor permit his attendant to touch till he had finished his harangue, when he walked into the water, and throwing the branch to the boat’s crew, he retired, and picked up their presents. Most of the natives having complied with a sign made for them to lay down their arms, one of the Midshipmen swam ashore; on which they flocked round him, admiring his cloaths; as his waistcoat pleased them most he gave it to them, which he had no sooner done, than one of them untied his cravat and ran away with it. He now thought it time to retreat to the boat, whither several of the natives swam after him; some bringing each a cocoa-nut, and others fresh water in the nut-shell. The boat’s crew had taken with them some shells of the pearl oyster, in order to learn of the natives how to procure some pearls; but they could not possibly make them comprehend their meaning. This island is situated in 14 degrees 41 minutes south latitude, and 149 degrees 15 minutes west longitude; and both the islands the Commodore called KING GEORGE’S ISLANDS, in respect to his Sovereign. In a lake belonging to the last island, two or three very large vessels were seen, one of which had two masts, with proper cordage.

The boats having returned on board, they sailed westward the same day; and the next afternoon decried another island, towards which they immediately sailed, and found that it was well inhabited, and had a fine appearance of verdure; but that a violent surf broke all along the coast. It lies in 15 degrees south, and 151 degrees 53 minutes west, and received the name of the PRINCE OF WALES’S ISLAND.

They now sailed northward. From the vast flocks of birds they had repeatedly seen, which always winged their way to the south, on the approach of evening; and from the islands being so well peopled, the Commodore concluded that there was a chain of islands leading to a continent, the discovery of which he would certainly have attempted, but the crews of both ships were so unhealthy, as to render it impossible for us to succeed.

On Monday, June the 17th, they concluded that land was near, from the multitudes of birds which flocked about the ship; but they saw no land till the 21st, when it was discovered at eight leagues distance, having the appearance of three islands, with rocks between them. These islands abounded with inhabitants, whose dwellings lined the coast; and the beauty and fertility of the soil, seemed to excel that of any place they had seen: but the rocks and breakers with which it was surrounded, were an insuperable bar to any attempt at landing. On the night of the 21st all hands were on deck, as it rained hard, and the wind blew violently. Soon after nine o’clock the Tamar fired a gun, and the crew of the Dolphin imagined they saw breakers to leeward; but it proved to be only the undulating reflection of the setting moon on the waters.

On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the DUKE OF YORK’S ISLAND. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the place itself had a pleasing appearance. The boats landed with some difficulty, and brought off a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, which were a great relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls were found sitting on their nests in high trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked down, and there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This island has a large lake in the midst of it, but has no inhabitants.

On the 29th they sailed northward, with a view to cross the equinoxial line, and then sail for the Ladrone Islands. On the 2d of July they discovered a low flat island, abounding with the cocoa-nut and other trees, and affording a most agreeable prospect. A great number of the natives were seen on the beach, many of whom, in above sixty canoes or proas, sailed, and formed a circle round the ships; which having surveyed for a considerable time, one of the Indians jumped out of his boat, swam to the ship, ran up its side in a moment, sat down on the deck, and began laughing most violently: he then ran about the ship, pilfering whatever he could lay hands on, which was taken from him as fast as stolen. This man having as many antic tricks as a monkey, was dressed in a jacket and trowsers, and afforded exquisite diversion. He devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, and having played the buffoon some time, made prize of his new dress, by jumping over the side of the ship, and swimming to his companions. Several others now swam to the ship, and running up the side to the gun-room ports, committed some petty theft, swimming off with their booty with surprising expedition. These Indians are of a bright copper, with regular and chearful features, and are tall and well made. Their hair, which is long and black, is either tied in three knots, or in a large bunch behind. Their ears were bored, and they certainly had worn heavy ornaments in them, as some of them were drawn down almost to their shoulders: their ornaments were shells strung together, and worn round the waist, wrist, and neck; but they were otherwise naked. One of them, who seemed to be of some rank, wore a string of human teeth round his waist. Some of them carried a long spear, the sides of which, for the length of three feet, were stuck with the teeth of the shark, which are as keen as a razor. Some cocoa-nuts being shewn them, and signs made that more were wanted, they endeavoured to steal those, instead of directing where more might be found.

The officers named this place BYRON’S ISLAND, in honour of the Commodore. It lies in 1 degree 18 minutes south latitude, and 173 degrees 46 minutes east longitude. They sailed from hence on the 3d of July, on the 21st of which month the men again grew ill of the scurvy, having eaten up all the cocoa-nuts, which are, perhaps, the best cure for this disorder in the world. Several of the people were also troubled with fluxes, owing to the extreme heat of the weather. On the 22d they sailed for the island of Tinian, being nearly in the latitude of that place; and six days afterwards they had sight of the islands Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan, which lie between two and three leagues from each other. At noon, on the 31st, they anchored at the south-west end of Tinian, in the situation where the Centurion had anchored with Commodore Anson. The water is so wonderfully clear at this place, that, though 144 feet deep, they could see the ground.

The Commodore went on shore, where he saw many huts, which had been left the preceding year by the Spaniards and Indians. Having chosen a spot on which to erect tents for the sick, Mr. Byron and his company, with prodigious difficulty, worked their way through the woods, in search of those elegant meadows and lawns, of which so enchanting a picture is given in Anson’s Voyage: but, to their unspeakable mortification, they found the lawns covered with reeds, in which their legs were entangled, and cut as with whipcord; and these reeds were, in some places, higher than their heads, and in none less than half that height. From head to foot they were covered with flies, which got down their throats as often as they opened their mouths. In this excursion they killed a bull, and then retiring to the tents, which had been erected in their absence, they sent a party to fetch home their prize.

The invalids having been brought on shore the preceding day, they, on the 1st of August, began clearing the well, which Mr. Byron supposes to be the same that the Centurion watered at; but he says the water was brackish, and full of worms. While they lay here the wind once drove in so violently from the west, that the ships were obliged to put to sea for a week, to avoid being dashed against the rocks. The armourer’s forge was brought on shore, to repair the iron-work of the ships; and the Commodore had a tent erected, as he was very ill of the scurvy. The crew recovered apace from the scurvy; but many of them were seized with fevers, of whom two died, being the first they had lost since they left England. The rains were violent, and almost perpetual; and the heat so intense, that the thermometer on board the ship generally stood at 86, only 9 degrees less than the heat of the blood at the human heart. Innumerable insects tormented them; and they were perpetually infested by musquitos in the night, and flies by day. The island swarms also with black ants, centipieds, and scorpions.

Parties were sent out to kill cattle, which, after being absent three days and nights, and killing a bullock, had seven or eight miles to drag it through the woods and lawns, and when it arrived, it was commonly fly-blown, and stunk intolerably: add to this, that the extreme toil of this duty brought on fevers, which confined the men to their tents. They killed poultry with ease; but the heat was so excessive, that it would turn green, and swarm with maggots, in less than an hour after it was killed. They killed wild hogs that weighed 200 pounds each, which afforded them their chief supply of fresh meat. A negro belonging to the Tamar contrived a method to ensnare these animals, so that they sent many on board alive, and were thus always certain of having fresh meat both in the ship and on shore.

A spot having been found where cattle were plentiful, a party was sent to kill them, having a tent erected for their use, and boats were sent daily to bring away what they killed: three of the crew of the Tamar were lost in this service, by the violent breaking of the sea upon the rocks. Bread was now baked every day for the use of the sick, and, upon the whole, they were well supplied with provisions.

The island of Saypan is not only larger, but pleasanter than Tinian. It is, in a great degree, covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, at stated periods, carry on a pearl-fishery at this island, as there were evident signs of people having been lately there, and large heaps of the oyster-shells were seen.

The Commodore remained at Tinian till the 30th of September, by which time the sick being tolerably well recovered, he weighed anchor, and stood to the northward. This island produces plenty of cotton and indigo, with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, guavas, paupaus, sour oranges, and limes.

On the 18th of October several land-birds, apparently much fatigued, flew near the ship; one of which, of the size of a goose, rested on the booms: its legs and beak were black, but every other part white; and the beak was of a most monstrous length and thickness. On the 30th they saw a number of trees and bamboos floating near the vessel, which was then in 23 fathom water. On the 5th of November they came to an anchor off the Island of Timoan, on which Mr. Byron landed the day following. The inhabitants, who are Malays, no sooner saw the boat making for the shore, than many of them came to the beach, each having a dagger by his side, a spear in one hand, and a long knife in the other. The boat’s crew, however, made no hesitation to land, and bartered a few handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and a dozen of fowls.

The Malays are of a copper complexion, well made, but of small stature. They wore turbans on their heads, and pieces of cloth, fastened with a silver clasp, round the waist; but one old man among them was habited nearly in the Persian fashion. Their houses, which are raised on posts eight feet from the ground, are composed of the bamboo, slit, and are very neatly constructed. The island produces the cocoa-nut and cabbage-trees in great abundance, and there are some rice grounds on it. While the ships lay at anchor, some of the inhabitants brought a living animal on board, which had legs like that of a deer, with a body like a hare, which proved to be very fine eating. The crews catched large quantities of fish in this harbour, from whence they sailed on the 7th of the month.

Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, when a sloop being seen at anchor in the harbour of an Island named Pulo Toupoa, Mr. Byron, having anchored in the same harbour, and observed that the vessel hoisted Dutch Colours, sent an officer on board her, who was received with great politeness, tea being immediately made for him and his attendants; but he could not make himself understood, the crew consisting entirely of Malays. This vessel, which was made of slit bamboo, had a piece of timber on each quarter, which served to steer her instead of a rudder.

The Commodore sailed the following day, and held his course till the 19th, when he spoke with an English Snow, bound from Bencoolen to Malacca and Bengal, in the East India Company’s service. At this time their biscuit was filled with worms and rotten, and their beef and pork was stinking. The master of the Snow being apprized of this circumference, sent Mr. Byron two gallons of arrack, a turtle, twelve fowls, and a sheep; which is supposed to have been the half of his stock, and for which he refused to accept the slightest return. They dropped their anchors this day in the road of Sumatra; and on the 27th, came to an anchor in that of Batavia.

Having anchored nearer the town on the following day, they fired eleven guns, which were returned; and an English ship from Bombay fired 13 guns in honour of the Commodore.

The Dutch Commodore sent his boat on board the Dolphin, under the command of his cockswain, who made but a shabby appearance. He put several questions to Mr. Byron respecting his voyage and destination, and took a book from his pocket to write down his answers, which Mr. Byron considering as an indignity, desired him instantly to leave the ship; which he did not think proper to hesitate at doing.

Mr. Byron visited the Dutch Commodore at his country-house, was received with great politeness, and told, that he might take a house in any part of the city, or be lodged at the hotel. Any inhabitant of Batavia permitting a stranger to sleep, though but for a single night, in his house, incurs a penalty of 500 dollars; the hotel being the only licensed lodging house, the Governor appoints the keeper of it, who at this time was a Frenchman. This hotel is the most superb building in the city, having more the air of a palace than an inn. All the streets of Batavia are well disposed, and having canals running through them, resemble the cities of Holland. The inhabitants are a motley herd of Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Persians, Moors, Malays, Javanese, &c. and their numbers are amazingly great. The Chinese live in a kind of separate town without the city walls, and deal very largely, having annually ten or twelve vessels laden from China. The roads, for several miles round the city, are very wide, and have a canal, shaded with trees, running by them, which is broad enough for the navigation of large vessels. Adjoining to this canal are the country-houses and gardens of the citizens.

The ships remained in this harbour till the 10th of December, when they sailed, being saluted with eleven guns by the fort, and thirteen by the Dutch Commodore. During their run from hence to Prince’s Island, in the Streight of Sunda, they were so abundantly supplied with turtle, by boats from the Java shore, that the common sailors subsisted wholly on that fish. They staid at Prince’s Island till the 19th, when they sailed for the Cape of Good Hope.

On the 10th of February they saw a great smoke arising from a sandy beach, which they supposed to have been made by the Hottentots. On the 13th they came to an anchor, and the next morning the Governor sent his coach and six for the Commodore, and received him with great politeness, offering him the accommodations of the company’s house in the garden, and the use of his coach. The Cape is a fine country, situated in a healthy climate, and abounding with various kinds of refreshments. In a paddock adjoining the Company’s garden, which is extremely elegant, ostriches, zebras, and other curious birds and animals are constantly kept. The Commodore frequently gave his men permission to go on shore, and they as constantly returned--drunk with the Cape wine.

They sailed on the 7th of March, and on the 25th crossed the equinoctial line. About this time an accident happening to the rudder of the Tamar, and it being impossible to make a perfect repair of it at sea, the Captain was ordered to bear away for Antigua; in consequence of which, they parted company on the first of April; and the Dolphin, without meeting with any other material occurrence, came to an anchor in the Downs on the 9th of May, 1766, after having been rather above twenty-two months in the circumnavigation of the globe.

CAPTAIN WALLIS’S
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.

Samuel Wallis, Esq; having been appointed to the command of his Majesty’s ship the Dolphin, which was destined for a Voyage round the World, he sailed down the river on the 26th of July, and came to an anchor in Plymouth Sound on the 16th of August; three days after which he received sailing orders, and directions to take under his command the Swallow sloop, and Prince Frederick store-ship. These vessels sailed on the 22d, and on the 7th of September, in the evening, came to an anchor in the road of Madeira. The next morning Captain Wallis saluted the Governor with 13 guns, and the compliment was returned with an equal number.

They sailed thence on the 12th, after having taken in beef, wine, and onions, as sea-stores. On the 16th, as they were sailing off the Island of Palma, at the rate of eight miles an hour, the wind suddenly died away, so that the vessels lay quite still. On the 20th they catched several bonettas, out of a great number which surrounded the ship; and this day they saw some herons flying to the eastward. The Swallow, which was a bad sailer, parted from the other vessels, in the night between the 21st and 22d, but she joined company again on the 24th, within six leagues of the Isle of May. This day the three vessels came to an anchor in Port Praya, in the above-mentioned island; and the next morning they obtained leave from the commanding officer at the fort, to get water and other necessaries. This being the sickly season there, and the small-pox being very fatal, the Captain detained every man on board who had not had that distemper.

They here catched great quantities of fish, and having procured cattle and water, and found some wild purslain that was very refreshing, they sailed on the 28th; and, in the night, saw the burning mountain on the peak of Fuego. Captain Wallis now ordered every man to be furnished with hook and line, that he might supply himself with fish; and likewise, to prevent infection, commanded that no man should keep his fish above twenty-four hours. On the 20th they began to serve the crews with oil, all the butter and cheese being consumed; and orders were issued, that, during the remainder of the voyage, they should be served with vinegar and mustard once a fortnight. On the 22d they judged that they were within 60 degrees of land, from the sight of a great number of birds. Two days after this orders were given for serving the men with brandy, the wine being reserved for those that were ill. On the 27th the Prince Frederick sprung a leak, and her crew were at this time so sickly, through the fatigue of pumping, and the badness of their provisions, that her commander, Lieut. Brine, was apprehensive he could not keep company much longer, except some assistance could be given him. The Captain sent a carpenter and six sailors on board, but he was unable to supply her with better provisions. As the carpenter found he could do little toward stopping the leak in the store-ship, the Dolphin and Swallow compleated their provisions from her stores, and put on board her the empty oil jars, staves, and iron hoops.

By the 12th of November they were in 30 degrees of south latitude, when they found the weather so cold as to have recourse to their thick jackets. On the 19th, at eight o’clock at night, they saw a meteor, which flew horizontally from north-east to south-west, leaving a train of light, which made it as bright as at mid-day on the deck. From the 20th to the 22d they saw whales, seals; snipes, plover, and other birds, and some butterflies. On the 8th of December they saw land, and on the 9th remarked, that the sea appeared coloured, by the immense quantities of red shrimps that surrounded the ship.

On the 16th, being very near Cape Virgin Mary, they saw several men riding on the shore, who made signs for them to land. Having come to an anchor, they observed that the natives remained opposite the ship all night, shouting aloud, and keeping up large fires. In the morning the Captain went on shore, with a boat’s crew from each ship, and having made signs for the Indians to sit down, he gave them combs, buttons, knives, scissars, beads, &c. and pleased the women greatly by the distribution of some ribbands. He then intimated that he should be glad to accept some guanicoes and ostriches, in exchange for bill-hooks and hatchets, which he shewed them; but they were either really or designedly ignorant of his meaning. The tallest among these people was six feet seven inches, several others were from one to two inches shorter; but the general height was from five feet ten to six feet. They were muscular and well made, but their hands and feet very small, in proportion to the rest of their bodies. They were dressed in the skin of the guanico, with the hairy side to their bodies; and some of them wore a square piece of cloth, made of the hair of the guanico, and a hole being cut to admit the head through, it reached down to the knees: they wore likewise a kind of buskin from the middle of the leg to the instep, which was also conveyed under the heel, but the rest of the foot was bare: their hair, which was strait and coarse, was tied back with a cotton string; and their complexion was the dark copper. They rode on horses about fourteen hands high, and had dogs of the Spanish kind; both men and women rode astride, and the men were furnished with wooden spurs: some of the men had their arms painted, the faces of others were variously marked, and others again had the left eye enclosed by a painted circle. Their arms were two round stones, enclosed with leather, one of which was fastened at each end of a string eight feet in length: and one stone being held in the hand, the other was swung round the head with great force for some time, and then discharged at any mark they chose to strike. They likewise catch guanicoes and ostriches by means of this cord, which is thrown so, that the weight twists round and hampers the legs of the intended prey. Some of them were observed to devour the paunch of an ostrich raw, having only turned the inside outwards, and shook off some of the filth.

These people, who are great talkers, were often heard to say _Ca-pi-ta-ne_, on which they were successively addressed in Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, and French; but they had no knowledge of either of those languages. When they shook hands with any of the crew, they always said _chevow_; and they were amazingly ready in learning English words, and pronounced the sentence “Englishmen come on shore” with great facility.

As they seemed desirous of going on board, the Captain took eight of them into the boats, on which they instantly began singing for joy; but when they came into the ship, they expressed no kind of surprize at the novelties they beheld, till a looking glass being observed, they acted many antic gestures before it, occasionally walking to and from it, talking with earnestness, and laughing immoderately. They would drink nothing but water, but they eagerly ate every article of the ship’s provisions. They were highly pleased with some turkies and guinea-hens which were on board, nor did the hogs and sheep escape their attention. One of them making signs that he should be glad of some cloaths, the Captain gave him a pair of shoes and buckles, and presented the rest with a little bag each, in which he put new six-pences and halfpence, with a ribband passed through a hole in them, to hang round their necks: the remaining contents of the bag were, a looking-glass, a comb, some beads, a knife, a pair of scissars, some twine, and a few slips of cloth: being offered some tobacco, they smoked a few minutes, but did not seem to like it. The marines being exercised before them, they were terrified at the firing of the muskets, and one of them falling down, shut his eyes, and lay without motion, as if to intimate that he knew the destructive nature of those weapons.

It was with difficulty that they were at length prevailed on to go on shore; and one of them would not leave the ship till he had sung a long kind of prayer, and even petitioned to stay till evening, by pointing to the sun, and then moving his hand round to the western horizon. As soon as they were in the boat they began to sing, and did not cease till they reached the shore, where many of their companions pressed eagerly to be taken into the boat, and were highly affronted at being refused.

This day they turned into the Streight of Magellan with the flood-tide, and saw many people on horseback hunting the guanicoes, which ran up the country with prodigious swiftness. The natives lighted fires opposite the ships, and in the morning about 400 of them, with their horses feeding near them, were observed in a valley. This being the spot where Mr. Byron saw the Patagonians, some officers were sent towards the shore, but with orders not to land, as the ships were too far off to assist them in case of necessity. When they came near the land, many of the natives flocked towards them, among whom were women and children, and some of the very men they had seen the preceding day: these waded towards the boat, frequently calling out, “Englishmen come on shore;” and were with difficulty restrained from getting into the boat, when they found the crews would not land. Some bread, tobacco, and toys were distributed, but not an article of provisions could be obtained in return.

On the 23d the tide was so violent, that the ships were driven three several ways; but in the evening they were safely anchored. On Christmas-day they procured a quantity of celery from Elizabeth Island, which being boiled with portable soup and wheat, the crews breakfasted on it several days. Many huts were found on this island, and two dogs were seen; but the Indians had quitted it for the present. Many high mountains were observed, which, though it was then the midst of summer, were, in a great degree, covered with snow.

On the 26th they anchored in Port Famine Bay, and the sick were sent on shore, where a tent was erected for their reception, as was another for the accommodation of the sail-makers, and those who landed to get wood. On the 28th the empty water-casks were landed; and on this day great quantities of fish were catched, among which were smelts. When they arrived here, many of the people were very bad with the scurvy; but by the plentiful use of vegetables, and bathing in the sea, they all recovered in a very short time.

All hands were now employed in repairing and storeing the ships; and thousands of young trees were carefully taken up with the mould about them, to be carried to Falkland’s Islands, which produce no timber.

On the 17th of January, 1765, the Master of the Dolphin, who had been in search of anchoring-places, returned with an account, that he had found such as were proper for the purpose; and this day the Prince Frederick sailed for Falkland’s Islands.

They sailed on the 18th, and came to an anchor the next day, half a mile from the shore, opposite a current of fresh water, that falls rapidly from the mountains. As a more convenient anchoring-place, and at the same time better adapted for procuring wood and water, had been discovered, they sailed again the next day, and, on the 23d, came to an anchor in the bay near Cape Gallant, where they catched wild ducks in such numbers, as to afford them a very seasonable relief. Near this spot are very high mountains, one of which was climbed by the Master of the Swallow, with the hope of getting a view of the South Sea; but being disappointed in his expectation, he erected a pyramid, and having written the ship’s name and the date of the year, he left the same, with a shilling within the structure.

On the 24th they saw an animal that was as swift as a deer, and had a cloven foot; but in other respects it was like an ass. Near this spot the country has a most forbidding aspect:--the mountains on both sides of the Streight are of a stupendous height; the lower parts of them are covered with trees, above which a space is occupied by withered shrubs; higher up are fragments of broken rock, and heaps of snow; and the tops are totally rude, naked, and desolate.

On the evening of the 28th they saw a great smoke on the southern shore, and another on Prince Rupert’s Island; and the next morning some people being sent on shore for water, they had no sooner landed, than several of the natives came off in three canoes; and, having advanced towards the sailors, made signs of friendship, which being answered to their wish, they shouted aloud, and the English shouted in return. When the Indians came up they were eating the flesh of seals raw, and were covered with the skins, which stunk intolerably. They had bows, arrows, and javelins, the two last of which were pointed with flint. These people were rather low of stature, the tallest of them not exceeding five feet six inches, and their complexion was the deep copper colour.

Three of these people being taken on board the Dolphin, they ate whatever food was offered them; but, like the Patagonians, would drink only water:--like them too, they were highly diverted with a looking-glass, in which they at first looked with astonishment, till, having become a little more familiar with it, they smiled at its effect; and finding a corresponding smile from the figure in the glass, they burst into most immoderate fits of laughter.

The Captain going on shore with them, presented some trinkets to their wives and children, and received some of their arms, and pieces of mundic, of the kind found in the tin mines of Cornwall. These Indians went off in canoes, the sails of which were made of the seal-skin.

The ships sailed on the 3d of February, and came to an anchor in York Road on the same day. The next morning Captain Wallis, with a party, went on shore near Batchelor’s River, and saw many Indian huts, and several dogs, which ran away the moment they were noticed: they likewise saw ostriches, and collected various kinds of fish and vegetables. There is a cataract near this river, the noise of which is tremendous, as it falls more than 400 yards, partly ever a very steep descent, and partly in a perpendicular line.

They sailed on the 14th, and came to anchor again the same day in York Road, after having lost ground by the contrary winds. The next morning they were driven with such violence by the current, as to be in momentary expectation of being dashed against the rocks, from which they were frequently not half the length of the ship; but they were providentially preserved, and came to an anchor in BUTLER’S BAY, which was so called from the name of one of the mates, who discovered it. They kept this station till the 20th, when they encountered a most violent storm, attended with hail and rain, which increased till the evening, the sea breaking over the forecastle upon the quarter-deck; yet, as the cables did not part, they were again wonderfully preserved from destruction. They remained here eight days, taking in wood and water, and repairing the little damage the ship had sustained in the storm. They catched fish of various kinds, among which were muscles near six inches in length; and procured plenty of vegetables. The mountains in this neighbourhood had the most rugged and desolate appearance; but their height could not be ascertained, as their heads were lost in the clouds; and some of them, on the southern shore, were so exceedingly desolate, as not to produce even a single blade of grass; while the vallies were equally barren, and almost covered with snow.

On the 1st of March they sailed again, and anchored on the same day in a bay which they called LION’S COVE, from whence they sailed on Monday; and on the five following days encountered such terrible weather, that they had no prospect before them but that of immediate destruction: and the crew on board the Dolphin were so prepossessed that the Swallow could not ride out the storm, that they imagined they saw some of her hands coming over the rocks towards them.

The storm at length subsided; but the weather being intensely cold, each of the men was furnished with a thick jacket, made of the woollen stuff called Fearnought. During a week which they remained at this place, they were at two-thirds allowance, brandy excepted.

On the 15th both ships were safely anchored in a place called SWALLOW HARBOUR, from whence they sailed the next morning; and on the following day the Swallow, being driven among breakers, made signals of distress; but she was happily relieved by a breeze from the shore.

This day the waves ran high, and there was so thick a fog, that they narrowly escaped shipwreck among a number of small islands; but the weather clearing up a little in the afternoon, they came safely to an anchor in a bay under Cape Upright.

On the 19th two canoes, having on board several Indians, came a-longside the Dolphin, who had with them a quantity of seal’s flesh, blubber, and penguins, which they ate without any kind of dressing. A seaman having catched a fish bigger than a herring, gave it to one of them, who killed it by a bite near the gills, and instantly devoured it. These people would not drink any liquor but water, but they eagerly ate provisions of any kind, boiled, roasted, raw, salt, or fresh. Though the weather was very cold, they had no covering but a seal-skin, and even that they did not wear when they were rowing. It was remarked that they had all sore eyes, probably occasioned by the smoke of their fires, and they lived in such a nasty way that they smelt as rank as a fox. They had a kind of javelin, pointed with bone, which they used in striking fish. The Captain presented them with a few baubles, with which they departed well satisfied.

Twenty-two of the sailors staying one night on an island, thirty of the natives hurried to their boat, and began to make free with its contents; but the sailors had just time to hinder their depredations, which enraging them, they ran to their canoes, and armed themselves with poles and javelins; but the sailors giving them some small presents, peace and harmony were soon restored.

The 30th of the month proving a fine day, they employed themselves in drying the sails of the ships, which were damaged by having been long wet. Several Indians went on board the next day, and proved to be the people which the boat’s crew had seen on shore.

On the 1st of April some of the natives brought several of the birds called Race-horses, which they sold to the sailors. The next day eight Indians brought six of their children on board, whom the Captain gratified with bracelets and necklaces. These people were exceedingly tender in the treatment of their children; and a circumstance happened which proves that they are not less delicate in other respects.--A boat was ordered on shore to get wood and water; at this time some of the Indians were on board, and others in their canoes a-longside the ship: the latter eyed the boat attentively; and, on her putting off, called aloud to their companions, who, without speaking, instantly handed down the children, and jumped into the canoes, which were hurried after the boat, while the Indians cried out in a most distressful tone. When the ship’s boat was near land, some women were seen among the rocks, to whom the Indians called out aloud, and they all ran away; but the boat’s crew having remarked their jealous fears, lay on their oars, to convince them that no injury was intended. The Indians landed, drew their canoes on shore, and hastily followed the objects of their affection.

On the 5th, at the request of the Surgeon, orders were given that no more muscles, of which they had hitherto collected plenty, should be brought on board, as the crew began to be troubled with fluxes. On the 10th the two ships sailed in company; and on the 11th they lost sight of each other, and did not meet again during the whole voyage. This day the Dolphin cleared the Streight of Magellan, in which she had laboured with innumerable difficulties, and escaped most imminent dangers, in a passage of almost four months, viz. from December the 17th, 1766, to the 11th of April, 1767.

Captain Wallis now proceeds to a description of the places in which the ships anchored, during their passage through the Streight; but as a minute recital of bearings, distances, and soundings, would be unintelligible to most of our readers, and possibly disgusting to them all, we shall omit these particulars; extracting only such anecdotes as may furnish real improvement or entertainment.

In the year 1581 the Spaniards built a town, which they named Phillipville, and left in it a colony of four hundred persons. These were all starved to death except twenty-four, all of whom but one proceeded in search of the river Plata, and most probably perished, as no tidings were ever heard of them: the remaining man, whose name was Hernando, was taken on board by Sir William Cavendish, in the year 1587, and brought to England; and the place was called Port Famine, from the melancholy fate of these unfortunate men. Wood and water abounds at this place; geese, ducks, teal, &c. are in great abundance, and there is no want of fish; so that the face of things must be greatly changed since the Spaniards died there of hunger.

Cape Holland Bay, where fish are catched in great plenty; and the adjacent country produces plenty of cranberries and wild celery, but there are no birds. At Cape Gallant Bay there is wood, water, vegetables, and fish; as there is also at Elizabeth’s Bay, and York Road. Butler’s Bay abounds with rock-fish, muscles, wild-fowls, &c. Lion Cove and Goodluck Bay produce scarce any thing but wood and water. Muscles and rock-fish are found at Swallow Harbour, the mountains round which are desolate beyond description. Upright Bay produces excellent water, and some wild-fowl and fish.

On Sunday the 12th of April they held a westward course, during which a number of sheerwaters, pintadoes, gannets, and other birds, flew about the ship; the upper works of which being open, and the cloaths and bedding constantly wet, the sailors in a few days were attacked with colds and fevers. The 27th of this month proving a fine day, the sick were brought on deck, and nourished with salop, and portable soup, in which wheat was boiled. The violent gales soon returned, so that the beds were again wet through, and it was feared that the ship would lose her masts: they therefore began to think of altering their course, in hope of better weather; and the rather, as the number of sick encreased so fast, that there was danger of soon wanting hands to navigate the vessel.

Nothing material happened from this time till the 14th of May, when something appeared to the eastward, which looked like high land, towards which a flock of brown birds were observed to fly: they therefore steered all night for this supposed land; but at day-break could see no signs of it. As the weather now mended, the people recovered very fast; and the carpenters were busied in caulking the upper-works of the ship, and repairing the boats. On the 21st they saw a number of flying-fish, and on the day following tropic birds, bonettas, and dolphins. About this time those who had recovered from colds were attacked with the scurvy; on which some sweet-wort was extracted from malt for their use, and they were supplied with pickled cabbage, and wine instead of brandy. Two grampuses were seen on the 26th, and on the day following variety of birds, one of which was taken for a land-bird, and resembled a swallow. Every method of cleanliness, and change of food, was now taken to prevent the scurvy, which began to encrease very fast.

On the first of June they saw several men of war birds, and the next day observed some gannets; and the weather being at this time very various, they conceived hopes that they drew near the land. On the 4th a turtle swam close by the ship; and the next day a great variety of birds were seen.

The long wished-for relief was now fast approaching; for on Saturday the 6th the man at the mast-head cried, “Land in the west-north-west.” This proved to be a low island, distant five or six leagues, and was soon seen from the deck, to the great joy of every one on board. When they came within five miles of this island, they discovered another to the west-north-west. Two boats were sent to the first discovered island, under the command of the second Lieutenant, the crews being well provided with arms. When the boats came near the island, two canoes were observed to put off to the other island. The crews having landed, gathered some cocoa-nuts, and collected a quantity of scurvy-grass, with which they returned to the ship, bringing with them some fish-hooks which the islanders had formed of oyster-shells. In this excursion they saw three huts, supported on posts, and open all round, but thatched with cocoa-nut and palm leaves, ingeniously wrought together. As no anchorage was to be found, and the whole island was encompassed with rocks and breakers, the Captain resolved to steer for the other island, giving the name of WHITSUN ISLAND to this, because it was discovered on the eve of Whitsunday.

Having approached the other island, about 50 of the natives, armed with pikes, and some having fire-brands in their hands, were observed running on the coast. Two boats were sent out, manned and armed, and the Lieutenant was instructed to steer for that part of the shore where the people had been seen; to avoid offending them, and to try to procure water and fruit in exchange for such commodities as he took with them. When the boat came near the shore, the natives put themselves in a position as if they would defend it with their pikes; but the crew making signs of friendship, and exposing their trinkets, some of the Indians walked into the water; to whom it was hinted, that some cocoa-nuts and water would be acceptable; which was no sooner done, than they fetched a small quantity of each, which they ventured to bring to the boats, and received some nails and other trifles in exchange. While they were dealing, one of the Indians stole a silk handkerchief with its contents, but the thief could by no means be discovered.

The next morning the boats were again dispatched, with orders to land, if they could do it without offence to the natives. As they approached the shore, they observed seven large canoes, each with two masts, laying ready for the Indians to embark in them: these having made signs to the crew to proceed farther, and this being done, the Indians embarked, and sailed westward, being joined by two canoes at another part of the island. These canoes, two of which were lashed together, appeared to be 30 feet in length, four in breadth, and three in depth. The people had long black hair hanging over their shoulders, were of a dark complexion, and of the middle size. They were dressed in a kind of matting made fast round the middle; and it was remarked, that the women were beautiful, and the men justly proportioned.

The Lieutenant being again sent on shore the Captain commanded him to take possession of the island in the king’s name, and to call it QUEEN CHARLOTTE’S ISLAND. The boats returned loaded with cocoa-nuts and scurvy-grass, after having found two wells of excellent water. Provisions for a week were now allotted for a mate and twenty men, who were left on shore to fill water; the sick were landed for the benefit of the air; and a number of hands were appointed to climb the cocoa-trees, and gather the nuts.

On the 10th the water was brought on board the ship, but the cocoa-nuts, and vegetables which the cutter was bringing off, were lost by the rolling of the waves, which almost filled her with water. On this island were found several tools, resembling adzes, awls and chissels, which were formed of shells and stones. The dead bodies were not buried, but left to decay above ground, under a kind of canopy.

The ship sailed this day, after taking possession of the islands for the king; in testimony of which they left a flag flying, and carved his majesty’s name on a piece of wood, and on the bark of several trees. For the use of the natives they left shillings, sixpences, halfpence, bottles, nails, hatchets, and other things. It should be remarked that, on this island, they found the very people who had fled from Queen Charlotte’s Island, with several others, in the whole near one hundred. It lies in 19 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, and 138 degrees 30 minutes west longitude; and received the name of EGMONT ISLAND.