Chapter IX: Part 9

In the afternoon, finding themselves to windward of some harbours that lay on the west side of Ulietea, they intended to put into one of them, in order to stop a leak which they had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in some additional ballast. The wind being right against them, they plied on and off till the afternoon, of the 1st of August, when they came to an anchor in the entrance of the channel which led into one of the harbours.

Wednesday 2, in the morning, when the tide turned, they came into a proper place for mooring, in twenty-eight fathom. In the interim many of the natives came off, and brought hogs, fowls, and plantains, which were purchased upon very moderate terms.

Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went on shore, and spent the day very agreeably; the natives shewing them great respect. Being conducted to the houses of the chief people, they were received in an uncommon manner. Upon their entrance into a house, they found those who had ran hastily before them, standing on each side of a long matt, spread upon the ground, and the family sitting at the further end of it. In one house they observed some very young girls, dressed in the neatest manner, who kept their places, waiting for the strangers to accost them: these girls were the most beautiful the gentlemen had ever seen.

One of them, who was about seven or eight years old, was dressed in a red gown, and her head was decorated with a great quantity of plaited hair; this ornament is called _Tomou_, and is held in great estimation among them. She was sitting at the upper end of one of their long mats, on which none of the people present presumed to set a foot; and her head was reclined on the arm of a decent looking woman, who appeared to be her nurse; when Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander approached her, she stretched out her hand to receive some beads, which they presented to her, with an air of such dignity and gracefulness, as would have done honour to the first princess in Europe.

Before their departure they were entertained with a dance, different from any they had seen before. The performer put upon his head a large piece of wicker-work, about four feet long, of a cylindrical form, covered with feathers, and edged round with shark’s teeth. Having this head-dress on, which is called a _Whou_, he began to dance with a slow motion, frequently moving his head, so as to describe a circle with the top of his wicker cap, and sometimes throwing it so near the faces of the bye-standers, as to make them jump back; this they considered as an excellent piece of humour, and it always produced a hearty laugh, when practiced upon any of the English gentlemen.

On Thursday the 3d, as Mr. Banks and the Doctor were going along the shore to the northward, with a design to purchase stock, they met with a company of dancers, who retarded the progress of their excursion near two hours, and afforded them much diversion. The company was composed of six men and two women dancers, with three drums. They were informed, that these dancers were some of the principal people of the island, and though they were an itinerant troop, they did not, like the strolling parties of Otaheite, receive any gratuity from the by-standers. The women wore a considerable quantity of Tamou, or plaited hair, ornamented with the flowers of the cape jessamine, which were stuck in with taste, and made an elegant head dress. The womens necks, breasts and arms were naked; the other parts of the body were covered with black cloth, which was fastened close round them; and by the side of each breast, next the arms, was a small plume of black feathers, worn like a nosegay.

Thus apparelled they advanced sideways, keeping time with great exactness to the drums, which beat quick and loud; soon after, they began to shake themselves in a very whimsical manner, and put their bodies into a variety of strange postures, sometimes standing in a row one behind another, sometimes sitting down, and at others falling with their faces to the ground, and resting on their knees and elbows, moving their fingers at the same time with a quickness scarcely to be credited. The chief dexterity, however, of the dancers, as well as the amusement of the spectators, consisted in the lasciviousness of their attitudes and gestures, which decency forbids us to describe.

Between the dances of the women, a kind of dramatic interlude was performed by the men, consisting of dialogue as well as dancing; but for want of a sufficient knowledge of their language, they could not learn the subject of this interlude.

Friday the 4th, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen, were present at a more regular dramatic entertainment. The performers, who were all men, were divided into two parties, one dressed in brown, and the other in white, by way of distinction. Tupia being present, informed them, that the party in brown acted the parts of a master and his servants, and the party in white a gang of thieves; the master having produced a basket of meat, which he gave in charge to his servants; the white party exhibited a variety of expedients, in endeavouring to steal this basket, and the brown set as many in preventing the accomplishment of their design. After some time had been spent in this manner, those to whom the basket was entrusted, laying themselves down on the ground round it, pretended to fall asleep; the other party availing themselves of this opportunity, stole gently upon them, and carried off their booty; the servants awaking soon after discovered their loss, but they made no search after the basket, and began to dance with as much alacrity as before.

On Saturday the 5th, some hogs and fowls, and several large pieces of cloth, many of them being fifty or sixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plantains and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain Cook as a present, from the Earee rahie of the island of Bolabola, accompanied with a message, that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the Captain the next day.

On Sunday the 6th, the King of Bolabola did not visit them agreeable to his promise, his absence, however, was not in the least regretted, as he sent three very agreeable young women to demand something in return for his present. After dinner, they set out to pay the King a visit on shore, as he did not think proper to come on board. As this man was the Earee rahie of the Bolabola men, who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neighbouring islands, they were greatly disappointed, instead of finding a vigorous, enterprising young Chief, to see a poor feeble decrepid old dotard, half blind, and sinking under the weight of age and infirmities. He received them without either that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met with among the other Chiefs.

On Wednesday the 9th, having stopped their leak, and taken on board their fresh stock of provisions, they sailed out of the harbour. Tho’ they were several leagues distant from the island of Bolabola, Tupia earnestly entreated Captain Cook, that a shot might be fired towards it; which, to gratify him, the Captain complied with. This was supposed to have been intended by Tupia as a mark of his resentment against the inhabitants of that place, as they had formerly taken from him large possessions which he held in the island of Ulietea, of which island Tupia was a native, and a subordinate Chief, but was driven out by these people.

They had great plenty of provisions, as well of hogs and fowls, as of vegetables, during the time they continued in the neighbourhood of those islands, so that they were not obliged to use any considerable quantity of the ship’s provisions, and they had flattered themselves, that the fowls and hogs would have supplied them with fresh provisions during the course of their voyage to the southward; but in this they were unhappily disappointed, for as the hogs could not be brought to eat any sort of European grain, or any provender whatever that the ship afforded, they were reduced to the disagreeable necessity of killing them immediately on their leaving those islands; and the fowls all died of a disease in their head, with which they were seized soon after they had been carried on board.

As they were detained longer at Ulietea in repairing the ship than they expected, they did not go on shore at Bolabola; but, after giving the general name of the _Society Islands_ to the islands of Huhaheine, Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha and Maurua, which lie between the latitude of 16 deg. 10 min. and 16 deg. 55 min. south, they pursued their course, standing southwardly for an island, to which they were directed by Tupia, at above an hundred leagues distant, which they discovered on Sunday the 13th, and were informed by him, that it was called _Ohiteroa_. The next morning they stood in for land, and saw several of the inhabitants along the shore; one of the Lieutenants was now dispatched in the pinnace, to sound for anchorage, and obtain what intelligence he could of the natives, respecting any land that might lay further to the south. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia went also in the boat, with the Lieutenant, when they came near the shore, they could perceive that the inhabitants were armed with lances of a considerable length. The appearance of the boat soon drew together a great number of them upon the beech, two of whom leaped into the water, and endeavoured to gain the boat, but she soon left them behind; several others made the same attempt, but with as little success.

The boat having doubled the point where they intended to land, opened a large bay, and discovered another party of the natives standing at the end of it, armed in the same manner as those they had already seen. The boat’s crew now rowed towards the shore, and began to make preparations for landing, upon which a canoe, with some of the natives on board, came off towards them; they ordered Tupia to acquaint these people, that they did not intend doing them any injury, but wanted to traffick with them with nails, which they shewed them; this information encouraged them to come along-side the boat, and they accepted of some nails, which were given them with much apparent pleasure and satisfaction; it soon appeared, however, to be nothing more than dissimulation; for, in a few minutes, several of them unexpectedly boarded the boat, with an intention of dragging her on shore; some musquets were immediately discharged over their heads, which had the desired effect, all of them leaping directly into the sea; and as soon as they reached the canoe, they put back to the shore as fast as they could paddle, where a vast concourse of their countrymen were assembled to receive them. They were followed to the shore by the people in the boat, who found the surf so violent, that they did not think it safe to attempt landing. They therefore coasted along the shore, in hopes of finding a place where they might land with less danger; presently after the canoe got on shore, a man with a lance in his hand ran along opposite to the boat, flourishing his weapon, and calling out with a shrill voice, which, upon enquiry of Tupia, they were informed was a mark of defiance.

Not being able to find a more convenient landing place, they returned, with a design of attempting it at the place where the canoe went on shore: as they were going back, the same mode of defiance was repeated by another warrior of a more formidable appearance than the first; having a high cap on, made of the tail feathers of a bird, and his body painted with streaks of a variety of colours. When this man retired, another advanced in years, with a grave and sedate countenance, made his appearance upon the beach, and asked them several questions, such as from whence they came, whither they were bound, and who they were. Tupia having answered these questions, and repeated his assurances, that our intentions were amicable, they appeared to be somewhat pacified. The people in the boat now proposed going on shore, to trade with them for such articles as they chose to dispose of, if they would quit their weapons; but they would not agree to this proposal on any other terms, than the English leaving their musquets behind them in the boat; with this, however, prudence would not permit them to comply, especially as they had so lately experienced the dissembling nature of these people. They therefore gave over all hopes of establishing a friendly intercourse with them, and returned to the ship. And as neither the bay which the boat entered, nor any other part of the island afforded either harbour or anchorage, the Captain did not think it worth while to attempt a second landing.

The people of this island are very tall, well proportioned, and have long hair, which, like the inhabitants of the other islands, they tie in a bunch on the top of their head; they are likewise tataowed on different parts of their bodies, but not on their posteriors.

This island does not shoot up into high peaks, like the others which they visited, but is more level and uniform, and divided into small hillocks, some of which are covered with groves of trees; they saw no bread-fruit, and not many cocoa-nut trees, but great numbers of the tree called Etoa, were planted all along the shore.

Their cloth, as well as the manner of wearing it, differed in many respects from any they had met with; all that they saw was died yellow, and painted on the outside with a variety of colours. Their habit consisted only of one piece with a hole made in the middle of it, thro’ which they put their head; it reaches as low as their knees, and is tied close round their bodies with a kind of yellow sash; some of them wear caps of the same kind as that already mentioned, and others bind their heads with a piece of cloth resembling a turban.

On Tuesday, the 15th of August, they sailed from this island to the Southward, with a fine breeze from the north, and clear pleasant weather; and on the 16th it being rather hazy, they were deceived by an appearance like several high peaks of land, for which they bore away, but the weather clearing up, convinced them of their mistake, and they resumed their course to the south.

On Friday the 25th, they celebrated the anniversary of their leaving England, from whence they had now been absent one year: a large Cheshire cheese, which had been carefully preserved for that purpose, was brought out, and a barrel of porter tapped, which proved to be as good as any they had ever drank in England. On the 29th John Raden, the Boatswain’s mate, died; this man’s death was occasioned by drinking too freely of some rum which was given him by the Boatswain. On the 30th, about four o’clock in the morning, they saw a large comet about 60 degrees above the horizon.

On Thursday the 7th of October, they discovered land at west by north, and in the afternoon, of the next day, they came to an anchor opposite the mouth of a little river about a mile and a half from the shore. The Captain, with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gentlemen, accompanied by a party of marines, went on shore in the evening, in the pinnace and yawl.

Having left the pinnace at the entrance of the river, Captain Cook, Mr. Banks, &c. proceeded a little farther up, when they landed, and leaving the yawl to the care of some of their boys, went up to a few small houses which they saw at a little distance. Taking the advantage of their absence from the boat, some of the natives, who had concealed themselves behind the bushes, suddenly rushed out, and ran towards it, brandishing the long wooden lances which they had in their hands in a threatening manner. The boys perceiving them, instantly dropt down the stream, but were very closely pursued by the Indians; the Cockswain of the pinnace therefore fired a musquetoon over their heads, which did not seem to intimidate them, as they still continued their pursuit; he then fired a second time over their heads, but with no better effect; alarmed at the situation of the boat, as they were now got near enough to discharge their lances at it, the Cockswain levelled his piece at them, and shot one man dead on the spot. Struck with astonishment at the fall of their companion, the others stood motionless for some time, but as soon as they recovered from their fright, retreated to the woods with the utmost precipitation. The report of the gun soon brought the advanced party back to the boats, and both the pinnace and yawl immediately returned to the ship.

On Monday the 9th in the morning, a great number of the natives were seen near the place where the gentlemen in the yawl had landed the preceding evening, and the greatest part of them appeared to be unarmed. The long-boat, pinnace and yawl, being ordered out, and manned with marines and sailors, Captain Cook, together with Mr. Banks, the rest of the gentlemen and Tupia went on shore, and landed on the opposite side of the river, over against several Indians who were sitting on the ground; as soon as the gentlemen began to land, they immediately started up, each producing either a long pike, or a kind of truncheon made of stone, with a string through the handle of it, which they twisted round their wrist. Tupia was ordered to speak to them in his language; and the gentlemen were agreeably surprized to find that he was well understood, the natives speaking the Otaheitean language, only in a different dialect. Their intentions at first appeared to be very hostile, brandishing their weapons in the usual threatening manner; upon which a musquet was fired at some distance from them, at the effect of which the ball happening to strike the water, they appeared rather terrified, and desisted from their menaces. The marines being drawn up, the Captain, with four or five of the gentlemen and Tupia, advanced nearer to the side of the river; Tupia again spoke to them, and informed them, that they wanted to traffick with them for provisions. They readily consented to trade, and requested the English gentlemen to cross the river and come over to them; which was agreed to, upon condition that the natives would quit their weapons; but this the most solemn assurances of friendship could not prevail on them to comply with. Not thinking it prudent therefore to cross the river, as they would not be persuaded to lay by their arms, the gentlemen in their turn intreated the Indians to come over to them, which after some time they prevailed on one of them to do; he was presently followed by several others, bringing their weapons with them. They did not appear to set any great value on the beads, iron, &c. which was presented to them, nor would they give any thing in return, but proposed to exchange their weapons for those belonging to the English, which being consequently objected to, they endeavoured several times to snatch them out of their hands. But as the gentlemen were on their guard, from the information given them by Tupia that they were still their enemies, their attempts to seize the arms were repeatedly frustrated, and Tupia, by the direction of the gentlemen, gave them notice, that any further offer of violence would be punished with instant death. One of them had, nevertheless, the audacity to snatch Mr. Green’s hanger, and retiring a few paces, flourished it over his head; he, however, paid for this temerity with his life, Mr. Monkhouse firing at him with a musquet loaded with ball; and that gentleman afterwards, with some difficulty, recovered the hanger, one of the Indians endeavouring to seize it.

This behaviour of the natives, added to the want of fresh water, induced Captain Cook to continue his course round the head of the bay. He was still in hopes of getting some of the Indians on board, and by presents, added to civil usage, convey through them a favourable idea of the English to their fellow countrymen; and thereby settle a good correspondence with them. Soon after an event occured, though attended with disagreeable circumstances, that promised to facilitate this design. Two canoes appeared making towards land, and Captain Cook proposed intercepting them with his boats. One of them got clear off, but the Indians in the other finding it impossible to escape the boats, began to attack them with their paddles: this compelled the Endeavour’s people to fire upon them, when four of the Indians were killed, and the other three, who were youths, jumped into the water, and endeavoured to swim to shore: they were however taken up and brought on board. They were at first greatly terrified, thinking they should be killed; but Tupia, by repeated assurances of friendship, removed their fears, and they afterwards eat very heartily of the ship’s provisions. When they retired to rest, in the evening, they appeared perfectly easy in their minds, and slept very quietly for some hours, but in the middle of the night their fears again returned, and they appeared in great agitation, frequently making loud and dismal groans. After some time, however, the friendly promises and kind caresses of Tupia again prevailed over their fears, and they became so calm and resigned as to sing a song, the tune of which was solemn and slow, and, at the dead of night, when an universal silence prevailed throughout the ship, had an awful and pleasing effect. The next morning, after they were dressed and ornamented, according to the mode of their country, with necklaces and bracelets, Captain Cook proposed setting them on shore, that they might give a favourable report to their countrymen of the reception they had met with. They testified much satisfaction when told they were going to be released: but seemed under great apprehensions of danger, at finding the boat approach Captain Cook’s first landing-place, intimating, that the inhabitants here were their foes, and that they always killed and ate their enemies. The Captain, nevertheless, judged it expedient to land near the same spot, which he accordingly did with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander and Tupia, resolving at the same time to protect the youths from any injury that might be offered them. The gentlemen had not been long on shore before the boys left them, but on seeing two large parties of the Indians advancing hastily towards them, they returned, and again put themselves under their protection. As the Indians drew nearer, one of the boys discovered his uncle amongst them, and a conversation took place between them across the river, in which the lad gave a very just account of the hospitality he had met with, and took great pains to display their cloaths and finery. Soon after the uncle swam across the river, bringing with him a green bow, as a token of friendship, which was received as such, and several presents were made him. The body of the Indian, who was shot the day before, lay in the same place where he fell: one of the boys had covered it with part of his cloaths; and after the gentlemen had retired, the Indian performed a kind of ceremony over it, by throwing a green branch towards it, and the body was afterwards carried in a raft across the river. Notwithstanding the presence of the uncle of one of the boys, all three of them, by their own desire, returned to the ship, but as the Captain intended sailing the next morning, he sent them on shore again in the evening, though much against their inclination; the names of these boys were Taahourange, Koikerange and Maragovete. They informed Captain Cook, that there was a particular kind of deer upon the island, likewise taro, eapes, romara, yams, a kind of long pepper, bald coote, and black birds.

On the 11th Captain Cook set sail, in hopes of finding a better anchoring place, after giving this bay (called by the natives Toaneora) the name of _Poverty Bay_; and the south-west point he called _Young Nick’s Head_, on account of its being first perceived by a lad on board named Nicholas Young. They were becalmed in the afternoon, and several canoes came off from the shore with Indians, who received many presents, and afterwards bartered even their cloaths, and some of their paddles, so eager were they of being possessed of as many European commodities as possible. A single tree formed the bottom of their canoes, and the upper part consisted of two planks sewed together: they sat on thwarts; their paddles were painted red, representing many uncommon figures, and were curiously wrought.

They were armed with bludgeons made of wood, and of the bone of a large animal; they called them _Patoo, Patoo_, and they were well contrived for close fighting.

After they had finished their traffic, they set off in such a hurry, that they forgot three of their companions, who remained on board all night.

They testified their fears and apprehensions, notwithstanding Tupia took great pains to convince them they were in no danger; and about seven the next morning a canoe came off, with four Indians on board. It was at first with difficulty the Indians in the ship could prevail on those in the canoe to come near them; and it was not till after the former had assured them that the English did not eat men, that they came along-side the Endeavour. The Chief came on board, whose face was tataowed, with a remarkable patoo patoo in his hand; and in this canoe the three Indians left the ship. Captain Cook gave the name of _Cape Table_ to a point of land about seven leagues to the south of Poverty Bay, its figure greatly resembling a table; and the island, called by the natives _Teabowry_, he named _Portland Island_, it being very similar to that of the same name in the British Channel. It is joined to the main by a chain of rocks, near a mile in length, partly above water. There are several shoals, called shambles, about three miles to the north-east of Portland, one of which the Endeavour narrowly escaped; there is, however, a passage between them with 20 fathom water. Some parts of Portland Island, as well as the Main, were cultivated; and pumice-stone in great quantities lying along the shore, within the bay, indicated that there is a volcano in the island. High pailings upon the ridges of hills were also visible in two places, which were judged to be designed for religious purposes.

On the 12th several Indians came off in a canoe; they were disfigured in a strange manner, danced and sung, and appeared at times to be peaceably inclined, and at others to menace hostilities; but, notwithstanding Tupia strongly invited them to come on board, none of them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavour was getting clear of the shambles, five canoes full of Indians came off, and seemed to threaten the people on board, by brandishing their lances, and other hostile gestures; a four pounder, loaded with grape shot, was therefore ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. This had the desired effect, and made them drop a-stern. Two more canoes came off, whilst the Endeavour lay at anchor; but the Indians on board behaved very peaceably and quiet, and received several presents, but would not come on board.

On Friday the 13th, in the morning, they made for an inlet, but finding it not sheltered they stood out again, and were chaced by a canoe, filled with Indians, but the Endeavour out-sailed them. She pursued her course round the bay, but did not find an opening.

The next morning they had a view of the inland country; it was mountainous, and covered with snow in the interior parts, but the land towards the sea was flat and uncultivated, and in may places there were groves of high trees. Nine canoes full of Indians came from the shore, and five of them, after having consulted together, pursued the Endeavour, apparently with an hostile design. Tupia was desired to acquaint them that immediate destruction would ensue, if they persevered in their attempts; but words had no influence, and a four pounder, with grape shot, was fired, to give them some notion of the arms of their opponents. They were terrified at this kind of reasoning, and paddled away faster than they came. Tupia then hailed the fugitives, and acquainted them, that if they came in a peaceable manner, and left their arms behind, no annoyance would be offered them: one of the canoes submitting to these terms, came along side the ship, and received many presents; but the other canoes returning, and persisting in the same menacing behaviour, interrupted this friendly intercourse.

The following day, Sunday the 15th, they were visited by some fishing boats, the people in which conducted themselves in an amicable manner; though the fish which they had on board had been caught so long that they were not eatable, Captain Cook purchased them, merely for the sake of promoting a traffick with the natives. In the afternoon a large canoe, with a number of armed Indians, came up, and one of them who was remarkably cloathed, with a black skin, found means to defraud the Captain of a piece of red baize, under pretence of bartering the skin he had on for it. As soon as he had got the baize into his possession, instead of giving the skin in return agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them up together, and ordered the canoe to put off from the ship, turning a deaf ear to the repeated remonstrances of the Captain against his unjust behaviour. After a short time this canoe, together with the fishing boats which had put off at the same time, came back to the ship, and trade was again begun. During this second traffick with the Indians, one of them unexpectedly seized Tupia’s little boy Tayota, and pulling him into his canoe instantly put her off, and paddled away with the utmost speed; several musquets were immediately discharged at the people in the canoe, and one of them receiving a wound they all let go the boy, who before was held down in the bottom of the canoe. Tayota taking the advantage of their consternation, immediately jumped into the sea, and swam back towards the Endeavour, he was taken on board, without having received any harm; but his strength was so much exhausted with the weight of his cloaths, that it was with great difficulty he reached the ship. In consequence of this attempt to carry off Tayota, Captain Cook called the Cape off which it happened _Cape Kidnappers_, lying in latitude 39 deg. 43 min. and longitude 182 deg. 24 min. west, and is very distinguishable by high cliffs and white rocks, that surround it. Its distance from Portland Island is about 13 leagues, forming the south point of a bay, which the Captain named _Hawke’s Bay_, in honour of Sir Edward, who then presided at the admiralty board.

As every circumstance that tends to elucidate the manners and customs of these people must attract the attention of the curious reader, we cannot omit Tayota’s behaviour upon recovering from his fright, occasioned by his being kidnapped. He produced a fish, and acquainted Tupia, that he designed to make an offering of it to his God, or Eatua, as a testimonial of his gratitude for his deliverance. Tupia approved of his intention, and by his direction the fish was cast into the sea. This is an evident proof, that even these unenlightened savages, by the mere impulse of nature, believe in the existence of a particular providence.

The Endeavour now passed a small island, white and high, supposed to be inhabited only by fishermen, as it appeared quite barren, and was named _Bare Island_. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape _Turn Again_ to a head-land, in latitude 40 deg. 34 min. S. longitude, 182 deg. 55 min. west, because the Endeavour here turned again. Before the Endeavour touched at New Zealand, it was not certainly known whether it was an island, or part of the continent, wherefore the lords of the admiralty had, by their instructions, directed Captain Cook to sail along the coasts as far as 40 degrees south latitude, and from thence, if the land appeared to extend farther, to return again to the northward. Agreeable to these instructions, the Captain being opposite to Cape _Turn Again_, changed his course from south to north; and the wind having likewise veered to the south, he returned nearly in his former track, sailing along the coast. This Cape is remarkable for a stratum of clay of a bright brown colour; its prominence gradually diminishes towards the north-side, but to the south its descent is not so regular.

The land between this Cape and Kidnapper’s Bay is unequal, and resembles the high downs of England. There appeared numerous inhabitants, and several villages. Wednesday the 18th the Endeavour came a-breast of a peninsula in Portland Island, named _Terakako_, when a canoe, with five Indians, came up to the ship. Two Chiefs who were in this canoe came on board, where they remained all night, and were treated with great civility. One of the Chiefs was a remarkable comely man, and his countenance was open and prepossessing. Their curiosity was uncommon, and their acknowledgments, for the trifling presents they received, were extremely grateful. The Chiefs would neither eat nor drink, but the servants made up for their masters abstinence, by their voracious appetites. The three boys had given these natives an account of the hospitality and liberality of the English, which had prevailed upon them to pay this visit.

Thursday the 19th the Endeavour passed a remarkable head land, which Captain Cook named _Gable End Foreland_. It is distinguished by a rock, in the shape of a church spire, which is very near it. Here three canoes came up, and one Indian came on board; he received some small presents, and retired to his companions. He wore a new garment of white silky flax, with a border of black, red and white.

Many of the Indians had pieces of green-stone round their necks, by way of necklaces; they were transparent, like an emerald, and appeared, on examination, to be a species of Nephritic-stone, of which all their ornaments of this kind consisted. Mr. Banks and the other gentlemen obtained several pieces of it.

The dialect of these Indians was not so guttural as that of the others, and they spoke the most like the inhabitants of Otaheite. The physiognomy of some was agreeable, their noses being rather prominent than flat.

On the 20th they anchored in a bay, about two leagues to the north of the Foreland. The natives in canoes invited them hither, and behaved very amicably. There appeared to be two Chiefs, who came on board: they received presents of linen, which gave them much satisfaction; but they did not hold spike-nails in such estimation as the inhabitants of some of the islands. They were dressed in jackets, the one ornamented with tufts of red feathers, the other with dog’s skin. The other Indians in the canoes traded with the Endeavour’s people, without attempting any imposition; and towards the evening the Chiefs returned. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, now went on shore, and were courteously received by the inhabitants, who did not appear in numerous bodies, to avoid giving offence. They received several trifling presents, and the Captain had the pleasure to find fresh water, in the course of a tour round the bay. They remained on shore all night, and next day Mr. Banks and the Doctor discovered several plants, and many beautiful birds, particularly quails and large pigeons. There were some houses with fences, to shelter them from the wind, and many stages for drying fish near the place where the gentlemen landed. Dogs with small pointed ears, and very ugly, were the only tame animals among them. At the watering-place the Captain ordered a line to be drawn, and enjoined the natives not to pass it, which injunction they civilly complied with. Many houses were contiguous, and the lands in the adjacent vallies were regular flats, neatly laid out in small plantations, the ground appearing to be broken, as if designed for gardens. They have sweet potatoes, like those of North America, in great quantities; and the cloth plant grows here spontaneously. There is plenty of fish in the bay, such as crabs, cray-fish, and ship-jacks or horse mackrel, which are larger than those upon our coasts. The number of supple jacks that grow in the adjacent woods, render them almost impassable; but they thereby afford shelter to their feathered inhabitants: the flat land was planted with cocos, and the hollow parts with gourds. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander visited several of the natives houses, and they met with a very civil reception. Fish constituted their principal food at this time, and the root of a sort of fern served them for bread, which when roasted upon a fire, and divested of its bark, was sweet and clammy; in taste not disagreeable, but unpleasant from its number of fibres. Vegetables were, doubtless, at other seasons very plentiful. The women paint their faces red, which so far from increasing, diminishes the very little beauty they have. The mens faces were not in general painted, but some were rubbed over with red ocre from head to foot, their apparel not excepted. Though they could not be compared to the inhabitants of Otaheite for cleanliness in general, they surpassed them in this respect in some particulars. Every dwelling was supplied with a privy, and they had dunghills for depositing dirt and filth. The women wore a girdle made of the blade of grass under a petticoat, and to this girdle was tied in front a bunch of fragrant leaves. They seemed to hold chastity in but little estimation, many of the young females resorting to the watering-place, where they bountifully bestowed every favour that was requested. One of the officers on shore, meeting with an elderly woman, he accompanied her to her house, and having presented her with some cloth and beads, a young girl was singled out, and he was given to understand he might retire with her. Soon after an elderly man, with two women, came in as visitors, and with much formality saluted all the company, according to the custom of the place, which is by gently joining the tips of their noses together. The officer upon his return was furnished with a guide, who led him a much better road than that he had come, and whenever they came to a brook or rivulet, the Indian took him upon his back to preserve him from being wet; several of the inhabitants were curiously tataowed, and one old man, in particular, was marked on the breast with various figures. There was an axe made of the green stone, already mentioned, which could not be purchased, though many things were offered in exchange. At night they danced in a very uncouth manner, making antick gestures, lolling out their tongues, with other strange grimaces; and in these dances old men with grey beards were, as well as the young ones, capital performers. They carried their civility so far, as to assist Mr. Banks and his company with one of their canoes to carry them on board; but the Endeavour’s people being unacquainted with the method of steering such a vessel, she was overset, but no one was drowned; and they reached the ship without any farther accident, some of the Indians having voluntarily engaged to conduct her. During the stay of the gentlemen on shore, many of the natives went off in their canoes, and trafficked with the ship’s company, preferring at first the cloth of Otaheite to that of Europe; but it soon diminished in its value. Several of the Indians went on board, and testified their curiosity and surprise, with regard to the different parts of the ship.

Sunday 22, in the evening, they sailed from this bay, which by the natives is called _Tegadoo_, and lies in latitude 38 deg. 10 min. south. The wind being contrary, they put into another bay a little to the south, called by the natives _Tolaga_, in order to complete their wood and water, and extend their correspondence with the natives; in this bay they came to an anchor in about eleven fathom water, with a good sandy bottom. Several canoes appeared, with Indians on board, and they trafficked very fairly for glass bottles and cloth. The Captain, Mr. Banks, and the Doctor, went in the afternoon to examine the water, and found it extremely good; here was also plenty of wood, and the natives behaved with as much civility as those they had just departed from.

On the 24th, Mr. Gore and the marines were sent on shore, to guard the people employed in cutting wood and filling water. Captain Cook, Mr. Banks and the Doctor also went on shore; the two latter employed themselves in collecting plants. In their route they found in the vales many houses uninhabited, the natives residing chiefly in slight sheds, on the ridges of the hills, which are very steep. In a valley between two very high hills they saw a curious rock, that formed a large arch, opposite to the sea; this cavity was in length above seventy feet, in breadth thirty, and near fifty in height; it commanded a view of the hills and the bay, which had a very happy effect. Indeed, the whole country about the bay is agreeable beyond description, and if properly cultivated would be a most fertile spot. The hills are covered with beautiful flowering shrubs, intermixed with a great number of tall and stately palms, which perfume the air, and make it most agreeably odoriferous. Mr. Banks and the Doctor found the tree that produces the cabbage, which, when boiled, was very good; and some other trees that yielded a fine transparent gum. Between the hills were fruitful villages, that might have been successfully cultivated, or turned into pasturage. Various kinds of edible herbage, were met with in great abundance, and there was reason to believe there were many trees that produced fruit fit to eat, some of which the gentlemen examined. The plant, from which the cloth is made, is a kind of Hemerocallis, the leaves of which afford a strong glossy flax, equally adapted to cloathing, as making of ropes. There are sweet potatoes and yam plantations near their houses, which are carefully cultivated. These gentlemen, upon their return, met an old man, who entertained them with the military exercises of the natives, which are performed with the _Patoo Patoo_, and the lance. The former has already been mentioned, and is used as a battle-axe; the latter is ten or twelve feet in length, made of extreme hard wood, and sharpened at each end. A stake was substituted for their old warriors supposed enemy; he first attacked him with his lance, when, having pierced him, the Patoo Patoo was used to demolish his head, and the force with which he struck would at one blow have split any man’s skull. This mode of fighting induced the gentlemen to believe no quarter was ever given here in war. The natives in this part are not very numerous; they are tolerably well shaped, but lean and tall; their faces resemble those of Europeans; their noses are aqueline; their eyes dark coloured; their hair is black, which is tied up on the top of their heads, and their beards are of a moderate length. Their tataowing is done very curiously in various figures, which makes their skin resemble carving; it is confined to the principal men, the females and servants using only red paint, with which they daub their faces, that otherwise would not be disagreeable. Their cloth is white, glossy and very even; it is worn principally by the men, though it is wrought by the women, who, indeed, are condemned to all the drudgery and labour.

On the 25th an armourer’s forge was set up on shore for necessary uses. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander went again in search of plants. Tupia, who was with them engaged in a conversation with one of the priests, and they seemed to agree in their opinions upon the subject of religion. Tupia, in the course of this conference, enquired, whether the report of their eating men was founded in truth; to which the priest replied it was, but that they ate none but declared foes, after they were killed in war. This idea is, however, horrid and barbarous, and proves that they carry their resentment even beyond death.

Captain Cook and Dr. Solander went on the 27th to inspect the bay, when the Doctor was not a little surprised to find the natives in the possession of a boy’s top, which they knew how to spin by whipping it, and he purchased it out of curiosity. Mr. Banks was during this time employed in attaining the summit of a steep hill, that had previously engaged their attention; and near it he found many uninhabited houses. Here were two rows of poles about fourteen or fifteen feet high, covered over with sticks, which made an avenue of about five feet in width, extending near a hundred yards down the hill in an irregular line: the intent of this erection was not discovered. When the gentlemen met at the watering-place, the Indians, by desire, sung their war song, which was a strange medley of shouting, sighing and grimace, at which the women assisted. The next day Captain Cook and the other gentlemen went upon an island at the entrance of the bay, and met with a canoe that was sixty seven feet in length, six in breadth, and four in height; her bottom, which was sharp, consisted of three trunks of trees, and the sides and head were curiously carved. There was a large unfinished house upon this island; the posts which supported it were ornamented with carvings, that did not appear to be done upon the spot; and as the inhabitants seem to set a great value upon works of this kind, future navigators might find their advantage in carrying such articles to trade with. Though the posts of this house were judged to be brought here, the people have certainly a taste for carving, as their boats, paddles, and tops of walking-sticks evince. Their favourite figure is a volute or spiral, which is sometimes single, double and triple, and is done with great exactness, though the only instruments the gentlemen saw were an axe made of stone, and a chissel. Their taste, however, must be acknowledged whimsical and extravagant, scarce ever imitating nature.

Their huts are built under trees; their form is an oblong square: the door is low on the side, and the windows are at the ends; reeds, covered with thatch, compose the walls; the beams of the eaves, which come to the ground, are covered with thatch; most of the houses the gentlemen saw had been deserted, through fear of the English upon their landing. There are many beautiful parrots, and great numbers of birds of different kinds, particularly one whose note resembled the European black bird; but here is no ground fowl or poultry; nor were there any quadrupeds, except rats and dogs, and these were not numerous. The dogs are considered as delicate food, and their skins serve for ornaments to their apparel. There is a great variety of fish in the bay: shell and crayfish is very plentiful; some of the latter weigh near a dozen pounds.

Sunday, Oct 29, they set sail from this bay, which is called by the natives _Tolaga_. It is seated in latitude 38 deg. 22 min. south, four leagues to the north of Gable end Foreland: there are two high rocks at the entrance of the bay, which form a cove very convenient for procuring wood and water. There is a high rocky island off the north point of the bay, which affords good anchorage, having a fine sandy bottom, and from seven to thirteen fathom water, and is likewise sheltered from all but the north-east wind.

Captain Cook obtained nothing here in trade but some sweet potatoes, and a little fish. This is a very hilly country, though it presents the eye with an agreeable verdure, various woods, and many small plantations. Mr. Banks met with a great number of trees in the woods, quite unknown to Europeans; the firewood resembled the maple tree, and produced a gum of whitish colour; other trees yielded a gum of deep yellow green. The only roots they met with were yams and sweet potatoes, though the soil appears very proper for producing every species of vegetables.