Chapter XI: Part 11

Some of the Indians brought four skulls one day to sell, which they rated at a very high price. The brains had been taken out, and probably eaten, but the scalp and hair remained. They seemed to have been dried by fire, in order to preserve them from putrefaction. The gentlemen likewise saw the bail of a canoe, which was made of a human skull. In a word, their ideas were so horrid and brutal, that they seemed to pride themselves upon their cruelty and barbarity, and took a peculiar pleasure in shewing the manner in which they killed their enemies, it being considered as very meritorious to be expert at this destruction. The method used was to knock them down with their patoo patoos, and then rip up their bellies.

An amazing number of birds usually began their melody about two o’clock in the morning, and serenaded the gentlemen till the time of their rising. This harmony was very agreeable, as the ship lay at a convenient distance from the shore, to hear it. These feathered choiristers, like the English nightingales, never sing in the day time.

On the 17th, the ship was visited by a canoe from the hippah, or village; it contained, among others, the aged Indian, of superior distinction, who had first visited the English upon their arrival. In a conference which Tupia had with him, he testified his apprehensions, that their enemies would very soon visit them, and repay the compliment, for killing and eating the four men.

On the 18th they received no visit from the Indians, but going out in the pinnace to inspect the bay, they saw a single man in a canoe, fishing in the manner already described. It was remarkable, that this man did not pay the least attention to the people in the pinnace, but continued to pursue his employment even when they came along-side of him, without once looking at them. Some of the Endeavour’s people being on shore found three human hip bones, close to an oven: these were brought on board, as well as the hair of a man’s head, which was found in a tree. The next day a forge was set up to repair the iron work, and some Indians visited the ship with plenty of fish, which they bartered very fairly for nails.

On the 20th, Mr. Banks purchased of the old Indian a man’s head, which he seemed very unwilling to part with; the skull had been fractured by a blow, and the brains were extracted, and like the others it was preserved from putrefaction. From the care with which they kept these skulls, and the reluctance with which they bartered any, it was imagined they were considered as trophies of war, and testimonials of their valour. In this day’s excursion they did not meet with a single native; the ground on every side was quite uncultivated; but they discovered a very good harbour. The succeeding day the ship’s company were allowed to go on shore for their amusement, and the gentlemen employed themselves in fishing, in which they were very successful. Some of the company in their excursion met with fortifications that had not the advantage of an elevated situation, but were surrounded by two or three wide ditches, with a draw-bridge, which, tho’ simple in its structure, is capable of answering every purpose against the arms of the natives. Within these ditches is a fence, made with stakes, fixed in the earth. A decisive conquest or victory over the besieged occasions an entire depopulation of that district, as the vanquished, not only those who are killed, but the prisoners likewise are devoured by the victors. From what has been related by such unquestionable authority, there can remain no doubt with the unprejudiced reader, that the inhabitants of this part of the globe are cannibals. There are, indeed, some closet travellers, who treat every thing as visionary, that they have not been eye-witnesses of, and therefore disbelieve all they read, related by real travellers, that does not square with their own notions and ideas; but as it may be impossible to convince these sceptical readers, we shall leave them to amuse themselves with their doubts and objections.

The 22d was employed by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander in collecting of plants, whilst Captain Cook made some observations on the main land on the south-east side of the inlet, which consisted of a chain of high hills, and formed part of the south-west side of the streight; the opposite side extended far to the east. He also discovered a village, and many houses that had been deserted, and another village that appeared to be inhabited. There were many small islands round the coast that seemed entirely barren, and what few inhabitants were upon them then lived principally upon fish. On the 24th they visited a hippah, which was situated on a very high rock, hollow underneath, forming a fine natural arch, one side of which joined to the land, and the other rose out of the sea. The inhabitants received the gentlemen with great civility, and very readily shewed them every thing that was curious. This hippah was partly surrounded with a pallisade, and it had a fighting stage like that already described. Here they met with a cross resembling a crucifix, which was ornamented with feathers, and which was erected as a monument for a deceased person; but they could not learn how his body was disposed of. From a conversation that Tupia had with these people, a discovery was made, that an officer being in a boat near this village, and some canoes coming off made him imagine they had hostile designs, and he fired upon them with ball, which made them retire with much precipitation, but they could not effect their retreat before one of them was wounded. What made this rash action the more to be lamented was, that the Indians afterwards gave every possible assurance that their intentions, upon this occasion, were entirely friendly.

On the 25th the Captain, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander went on shore to shoot, when they met with a numerous family, who were among the creeks catching fish: they behaved very civilly, and received some trifling presents from the gentlemen. The next day they went to take a view of the streight, that passes between the eastern and western seas: they accordingly attained the summit of a hill, but it being cloudy weather, they could not see at any considerable distance. Here, however, they erected a pile, leaving in it musket balls, small shot, beads, &c. as a testimonial of this place having been visited by Europeans. Upon their return they met with another Indian family, who behaved to them very respectfully, and assisted in procuring them water. They also visited another hippah upon a rock that was almost inaccessible; it consisted of about ninety houses, and had a fighting stage. The gentlemen made the inhabitants some small presents, and they in return furnished them with dried fish.

The ship’s company were, on the 27th and 28th, engaged in making necessary repairs, and getting her ready for sea. The next day they were visited by Topoa, their old friend, and some other Indians. They said, that the man who had received a wound from the officer, near the hippah, was dead; but this assertion proved afterwards groundless. The Doctor and Mr. Banks often went on shore whilst the ship was preparing for sea, and made several observations upon the coast to the north-west: they perceived an island, at about ten leagues distance, between which and the main there were several smaller islands. The Captain also went on shore, and erected another pyramid of stones, in which he put some bullets, beads, &c. as before, with the addition of a piece of silver coin, and placed part of an old pendant on the top, to distinguish it. Some of the people who had been sent out to gather celery, met with several of the natives, among whom were some women, whose husbands had lately fallen into the hands of the enemy, and they were cutting many parts of their body in the most shocking manner with sharp stones, in testimony of their excessive grief. What made this ceremony appear ridiculous as well as shocking, was, that the male Indians, who were with them, paid not the least attention to it, but with the greatest unconcern imaginable, employed themselves in repairing some empty huts upon the spot.

On Tuesday the 30th, two posts were erected, inscribed with the ship’s name, &c. as usual; one was placed at the watering-place, with the Union flag upon it, and the other in the same manner, on the island of _Motuara_; and the inhabitants being informed, that these posts were meant as memorials of the Endeavour having touched at this place, promised never to destroy them. The Captain then named this inlet _Queen Charlotte’s Sound_; and took possession of it in the name, and for the use of his Majesty, and a bottle of wine was drank to the Queen’s health.

The Captain made the old man some presents; among others there were a silver three-pence and some spike nails, with the broad arrow upon them. Topoa being questioned concerning a passage into the eastern sea, answered, that there certainly was such a passage; and he also informed the Captain, that the land to the south-west of the streight, where he then was, consisted of two islands, named _Tovy Poennammoo_, and that it would take about two days to sail round them; he added, that there was a third island to the east, called _Eaheinomauwe_, which was of considerable extent; and that the land contiguous to this inlet was called _Tiera Witte_.

Towards night, on the 31st, a brisk gale arose, attended with heavy showers, and the next morning the weather became so very tempestuous, that the Endeavour had her hawser broke, and several casks of water that had been left on shore were washed away with the rain.

The 2d, 3d and 4th of February, were chiefly spent in preparing for their departure, and purchasing fish of the natives, who confirmed the accounts that Topoa had given, respecting an eastern passage and the adjacent islands. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were in the mean while chiefly engaged in collecting seeds and shells of different kinds. They got under sail the 5th, but the wind not continuing, they came again to an anchor. Topoa visited the gentlemen again to bid them farewel; and being questioned, whether he had ever heard that such a vessel as the Endeavour had touched there, he answered in the negative; but added, there was a tradition of a small vessel coming from a place called _Ulimaroa_ (a distant country to the north) that there were only four men in her, and that they were all put to death.

Mr. Banks and the Doctor went again on shore, in search of natural curiosities, when they met with a very amiable Indian family, among whom was a widow, and a pretty youth about ten years of age. She had just lost her husband, and was performing the ceremony of the country upon the occasion. They behaved with the utmost hospitality and courtesy, and endeavoured to prevail with the gentlemen to stay all night, but they expecting the ship to sail, could not accept of the invitation. This family seemed the most enlightened and intelligent set of Indians the gentlemen had as yet met with, which made them regret they had not fallen into their company before, as they would probably have derived much information from them.

On the 6th of February, in the morning, the Endeavour sailed out of the bay, which the ship’s company, from an abhorrence of the brutal custom that prevails here of eating men, called _Cannibal Bay_. They bent their course to an opening on the east; in the evening, being in the mouth of the streights, they were becalmed in latitude 41 deg. south, longitude 184 deg. 45 min. west. The two points which form this entrance, were named cape Koomaroo, and point Jackson. The natives call the land about it Totarranue; and the harbour, which the Captain named _Ship Cove_, is very safe and commodious. A ship may enter it either between Motuara and the island of Hamote, or between the western shore and Motuara. Care, however, must be taken to attend to the tides; when there is little wind they flow about nine or ten o’clock at the full and change of the moon, and rise and fall about seven feet and a half, passing through the streight from the south-east.

The natives about this sound are not above four hundred in number; they are scattered along the coast, and live upon fern root and fish; the latter of which was the only commodity they traded in. They were not entirely ignorant of the use of iron, bartering their fish for nails, and often giving them the preference to any other trifles that were offered them; they soon rejected paper when they found it was not water proof; nor was the cloth of Otaheite held in much estimation by them; but the cloths of English manufacture they highly valued. The timber here is very good, and fit for almost all purposes, except masts; besides fish, which is in great plenty, here are shags, and some other kinds of wildfowl, in abundance.

The Endeavour having left the sound, steered eastward, and about six o’clock in the evening they were greatly alarmed at their being carried, by the rapidity of the current, very close to one of the two islands which lie off Cape Koamaroo, at the entrance of the sounds. The ship was in such imminent danger, that they expected every minute she would be dashed to pieces; but letting go an anchor, and veering one hundred and sixty fathoms of cable, she was brought up, when they were not above two cables length from the rocks: in this situation they were obliged to wait for the ebb of the tide, which was not till after midnight; at three o’clock in the morning they weighed anchor, and a fine breeze springing up soon after, they were carried through the streight with great velocity. At the entrance of the streight, on the north-side, there is a small island, which was named _Entry Island_. The narrowest part of this streight, which was called _Cooke’s Streight_, is between Cape Tierawitte and Cape Koamaroo; it is about thirteen miles long and fourteen broad; the safest passage is on the north-east shore, the other being rocky and dangerous. The two eastern points of the streight Captain Cook named _Cape Palliser_ and _Cape Campbell_; the first is in latitude 41 deg. 44 min. south; longitude 183 deg. 45 min. west; and the latter in latitude 41 deg. 34 min. south-east, and longitude 183 deg. 58 min. west. The Endeavour was now about three leagues from land, facing a deep bay, which was called _Cloudy Bay_. Some of the gentlemen on board expressing a doubt that Eahienomauwe was not an island, the Endeavour steered south-east, in order to ascertain whether it was or not; upon the wind’s shifting, she stood eastward, and steered all night north-east by east. They were off Cape Palliser next morning (the 8th) when they discovered that the land reached away to the north-east towards Cape Turnagain. Three canoes came off in the afternoon, with several people in them; they made a good appearance, and their canoes were ornamented like those of the Indians of the northern coast. They came on board without the least hesitation, and behaved very civilly; a mutual exchange of presents took place, which was the first instance they met with of such courtesy among any of the Indians. By their asking for _Whow_, which signified nails, it was imagined they had heard of the Endeavour’s people from the inhabitants of some other place where she had touched. They resembled the natives of Tolaga Bay in their dress. One old man was tataowed in a very remarkable manner; he was likewise marked with a streak of red paint across the nose, and over both cheeks; his hair was quite white as well as his beard. His garment was made of flax, with a wrought border, under which was a kind of petticoat, made of a cloth called Aooree Waow; his ears were decorated with teeth and pieces of green stone. His voice was soft and low, and he appeared, upon the whole, to be a person of distinguished rank. These Indians retired greatly satisfied with the presents they had received; and the Endeavour, after parting from them, steered coastwise, till the 9th in the morning, which being a clear day, it was easily determined that Eahienomauwe was certainly an island.

On the 14th of February about sixty Indians, in four double canoes, came within a stone’s cast of the ship, which they beheld with surprise. Tupia endeavoured to persuade them to approach nearer, which they refused, and made towards the shore, but did not reach it till after it was dark. From the behaviour of these people, the place from whence they came was called the _Island of Lookers-on_. On the 17th of this month they saw an island, five leagues from the coast of Tovy Poenammoo, which was called after the name of Mr. Banks. This island appeared to be inhabited, as they saw a few Indians on it, and in one place beheld the smoke of a fire. As no farther signs of land appeared to the southward, they steered to the west on Sunday the 18th, and made various way till the 23d, when it fell calm. Mr. Banks took this opportunity to go a shooting in his boat; when he shot some Port Egmont hens, like those found on the island of Faro, and were the first they had seen on this coast. On Sunday the 25th they saw a point of land, in 45 deg. 35 min. south latitude, which Captain Cook named CAPE SAUNDERS, in honour of the Admiral of that name. They kept at a small distance from the shore, which is interspersed with hills that are green, and abound in trees; but they did not see a single inhabitant. They had various winds and seas till the 4th of March, when they saw several whales and seals.--On the 9th they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon afterwards another ledge, three leagues from the shore, which they passed to the north during the night, and discovered the others under their bow at day-break. Thus they had a narrow escape from destruction; and these ledges of rocks were denominated the TRAPS, from their being adapted to entrap the unwary. The southermost point of this land they called SOUTH CAPE, and indeed it proved to be the southern extremity of the whole country.

In the morning they sailed northward, and, on the day following, discovered a barren rock, about a mile in circumference, very high, and five leagues from the main land. This was called SOLANDER’S ISLAND. On the 13th they discovered a bay, which contains several islands, behind which, if there be depth of water, there must be shelter from all winds. Captain Cook called this DUSKY-BAY, and it is remarkable for having five high, peaked rocks, lying off it, which look like the thumb and four fingers of a man’s hand; whence it was denominated POINT FIVE FINGERS. Three leagues to the south of Dusky Bay lies the westermost point of land on the whole coast, which was therefore called WEST-CAPE.

On the 14th they passed a small narrow opening in the land, where there appeared to be a good harbour, formed by an island. On the land behind it were mountains covered with snow. On the 16th they passed a point, consisting of high red cliffs, which received the name of CASCADE POINT, from a cascade of water which fell down it in several small streams. On the 18th in the morning they observed the vallies as well as the mountains covered with snow, which they thought had fallen in the night, when they had rain at sea. On the 23d they gave the name of _Rock’s Point_ to a head of land, off which lay some rocks above the water.

They had now almost passed the whole of the north-west coast of Tovy Poenammoo; the face of the country afforded nothing worth notice, but a ridge of rocks of a stupendous height, “which Dr. Hawkesworth describes as totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with snow, which is to be seen in large patches in many parts of them, and has probably lain there ever since the creation of the world; a prospect more rude, craggy, and desolate than this country affords from the sea, cannot possibly be conceived; for as far inland as the eye can reach, nothing appears but the summits of rocks, which stand so near together, that, instead of vallies, there is only fissures between them.”

By the 27th they had sailed round the whole country, and determined to depart from the coast, as soon as they had taken in a stock of water. For this purpose the Captain went ashore in the long-boat, and found an excellent watering-place, and a proper birth for the ship; which being moored, they began filling their casks; while the carpenter and his crew were employed in cutting wood. On the 30th the Captain, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went in the pinnace to examine the bay, and the land on its borders, on which the two last mentioned gentlemen found several plants, of a species they had not seen before. They saw no inhabitants; but found several Indian huts, which appeared to have been long deserted. When they returned on board in the evening, the ship was ready to sail, all the wood and water being on board. A council of the officers was now held, as to the passage they should take to England; when it was resolved to return by the East Indies, and with that view to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the northward.

This resolution being taken, they sailed at day-break, on Saturday March 31, 1770, and taking their departure from an eastern point, which they had seen on the 23d, they called it CAPE FAREWELL. The bay from which they sailed was named ADMIRALTY BAY, and the two Capes thereof CAPE STEPHENS, and CAPE JACKSON, the names of the then Secretaries to the Board of Admiralty. Between the island and Cape Farewell is a bay, which they called BLIND BAY, and which Captain Cook supposes, to be the same that is distinguished in Tasman’s Voyage, by the name of Murderers Bay.

We shall now proceed to give such an account of the country and its inhabitants, as could be acquired during the circumnavigation of the coast. Abel Jansen Tasman, a Dutchman, was the first European that made a discovery of NEW ZEALAND, to which he gave the name of STAATEN LAND, that is, the land of the States General. Tasman never went on shore, as the Indians attacked him soon after he came to an anchor, in the bay to which he gave the name of Murderers Bay. From the time of Tasman’s discovery, which was in December 1642, till the present voyage, the whole country, except that part which Tasman saw, remained totally unknown, and has been supposed to be part of a southern continent; but it now proves to be two large islands, separated by a streight, of the breadth of about twelve miles.

The situation of these islands is between 34 and 48 degrees of south latitude, and 181 and 194 degrees of west longitude. The natives call the northern island Eaheinomauwe, and the southermost Tovy Paenammoo.

Eaheinomauwe, though hilly, and in some places mountainous, is well stored with wood, and there is a rivulet in every valley. The soil of the vallies is light, but is so fertile, as to be well adapted for the plentiful production of all sorts of the fruits, plants, and corn of Europe; the inhabitants of which, if a settlement should be effected, might supply themselves with the necessaries and even luxuries of life, without any extraordinary exertion of their industry. The summer is more equally warm, though not hotter than in England; and it is imagined, from the vegetables that were found, that the winter is not so severe.

Dogs and rats are the only quadrupedes that were seen, and of the latter only a very few. The inhabitants breed the dogs for the sole purpose of eating them. There are seals and whales on the coast; and they once saw a sea-lion. The birds are hawks, owls, quails; and there are song-birds, whose note is wonderfully melodious. There are ducks and shags of several sorts, not unlike those of Europe; and the gannet, which is exactly the same. The sea-coast is visited by albatrosses, sheerwaters, pintados and penguins, descriptions of which have been given in other voyages. The insects are flesh-flies, beetles, butterflies, sand-flies and musquitos.

Tovy Poenammoo appears to be a barren country, is very mountainous, and almost destitute of inhabitants.

The sea which washes these islands abounds with fish, which are equally delicate and wholesome food. They seldom came to anchor but they catched enough, with hook and line only, to supply the whole ship’s crew: and, when they fished with nets, every mess in the ship, except those who were too indolent, salted as much as supplied them when at sea for several weeks after. The fish was not less various in kind than plentiful in quantity: there were many sorts they had never before seen; but the sailors readily gave names to all of them. They had several sorts of mackrel, one of which was the same as we eat in England. These fish were catched by the natives in immense quantities, and sold to the crew on the most moderate terms: but the richest dainty these seas afforded was the sea cray-fish, which differ from those seen in England, by having more prickles on the back, and being red when first catched. These they purchased of the natives on the north coast, who dive for them, and find where they lie with their feet. They had several kinds of skate, and a kind of dog-fish, of a more delicate flavour, though otherwise similar to the skate eaten in London. Eels, congers, clams, oysters, cockles, and flat-fish, resembling both soles and flounders, were likewise found in great plenty on this coast.

This country abounds with forests, filled with very large, strait, and clean timber. There is one tree about the size of an oak, which was distinguished by a scarlet flower, that appeared to be composed of several fibres; and another which grows in swampy ground, very strait and tall, bearing small bunches of berries, and a leaf resembling that of the yew tree. About four hundred species of plants were found, all of which are unknown in England, except garden night-shade, sow-thistle, two or three kinds of fern, and one or two sorts of grass. They found wild celery, and a kind of cresses, in great abundance, on the sea shore; and of eatable plants raised by cultivation, only coccos, yams, and sweet potatoes. There are plantations of many acres of these yams and potatoes. The inhabitants likewise cultivate the gourd; and the Chinese paper mulberry-tree is to be found, but in no abundance. There is only one shrub or tree in this country which produces fruit, and that is a kind of berry almost tasteless: but they have a plant which answers all the uses of hemp and flax. There are two kinds of this plant, the leaves of one of which are yellow, and the other a deep red, and both of them resemble the leaves of flags. Of these leaves they make lines and cordage, and much stronger than any thing of the kind in Europe. These leaves they likewise split into breadths, and tying the slips together, form their fishing-nets. Their common apparel, by a simple process, is made from the leaves, and their finer, by another preparation, is made from the fibers. This plant is found both on high and low ground, in dry mould, and in deep bogs; but as it grows largest in the latter, that seems to be its proper soil.

Our adventurers were of opinion, that no part of this country is peopled but the sea coast; so that the number of inhabitants is greatly disproportioned to the extent of country; and the settling a colony there, is recommended as an object worthy the notice of Great Britain.

The men of this country are as large as the largest Europeans. Their complexion is brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard. They are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious; and are stout and well shaped. The women possess not that delicacy which distinguishes the European ladies; but their voice is singularly soft, which, as the dress of both sexes is similar, chiefly distinguishes them from the men. The men are active in a high degree; their hair is black, and their teeth are white and even. The features of both sexes are regular; they enjoy perfect health, and live to a very advanced age. They are of the gentlest dispositions, and treat each other with the utmost kindness: but they are perpetually at war, every little district being at enmity with all the rest. This is owing, most probably, to the want of food in sufficient quantities, at certain times. They have neither black cattle, sheep, hogs, nor goats; so that their chief food being fish, and that not at all times to be obtained, they are in danger of dying through hunger. They have a few, and but a very few dogs; and when no fish is to be got, they have only vegetables, such as yams and potatoes, to feed on; and if, by any accident, these fail them, their situation must be deplorable. This will account for their shocking custom of eating the bodies which are slain in battle; for he who fights through mere hunger, will not scruple to eat the adversary he has killed.

Notwithstanding this custom respecting their enemies, the circumstances and temper of these people are in favour of those who shall settle among them as a colony. They are in need of protection; and their dispositions are so sweet, that it would be an easy task to attach them by kindness. Civilization would be a blessing to people, whom nature has barely furnished with the necessaries of life.

The inhabitants of New Zealand are as modest and reserved in their behaviour and conversation as the most polite nations of Europe. The women, indeed, were not dead to the softer impressions; but their mode of consent was, in their idea, as harmless as the consent to marriage with us, and equally binding for the stipulated time. If any of the English addressed one of their women, he was informed, that the consent of her friends must be obtained, which usually followed, on his making a present. This done, he was obliged to treat his temporary wife at least as delicately as we do in England. A gentleman who sailed in the Endeavour having addressed a family of some rank, received an answer, of which the following is an exact translation.--“Any of these young ladies will think themselves honoured by your addresses, but you must first make me a suitable present, and you must then come and sleep with us on shore, for daylight must by no means be a witness of what passes between you.”

These Indians anoint their hair with oil, melted from the fat of fish or birds. The poorer people use that which is rancid, so that they smell very disagreeable; but those of superior rank make use of that which is fresh. They wear combs, both of bone and wood, which is considered as an ornament when stuck upright in the hair. The men tie their hair in a bunch on the crown of the head, and adorn it with the feathers of birds, which they likewise sometimes place on each side of the temples. They commonly wear short beards. The hair of the women sometimes flows over the shoulders, and sometimes is cut short. Both sexes, but the men more than the women, mark their bodies with black stains, called Amoco. In general the women stain only the lips; but sometimes mark other parts with black patches: the men, on the contrary, put on additional marks from year to year, so that those who are very ancient are almost covered. Exclusive of the amoco, they mark themselves with furrows. These furrows make a hideous appearance, the edges being indented, and the whole quite black. The ornaments of the face are drawn in the spiral form, with equal elegance and correctness, both cheeks being marked exactly alike; while the paintings on their bodies resemble fillagree work, and the foliage in old chafed ornaments: but no two faces or bodies are painted exactly after the same model. The people of New Zealand frequently left the breech free from these marks; which the inhabitants of Otaheite adorned beyond any other. These Indians likewise paint their bodies, by rubbing them with red oker, either dry, or mixed with oil.

Their dress is formed of the leaves of the flag split into slips, which are interwoven, and made into a kind of matting, the ends, which are seven or eight inches in length, hanging out on the upper side. One piece of this matting being tied over the shoulders, reaches to the knees: the other piece being wrapped round the waist, falls almost to the ground. These two pieces are fastened to a string, which, by means of a bodkin of bone, is passed through, and tacks them together. The men wear the lower garment only at particular times.

They have two kinds of cloth besides the coarse matting or shag abovementioned; one of which is as coarse, but beyond all proportion stronger than English canvass; the other, which is formed of the fibres of a plant, drawn into threads which cross and bind each other, resembles the matting on which we place our dishes at table. They make borders of different colours to both these sorts of cloth, resembling girls samplars, and finished with great neatness and elegance. What they consider as the most ornamental part of their dress is the fur of dogs, which they cut into stripes, and sew on different parts of their apparel. As dogs are not plenty, they dispose these stripes with great œconomy. They have a few dresses, ornamented with feathers; and one man was seen covered wholly with those of the red parrot.

The women never tie their hair on the top of their head, nor adorn it with feathers; and are less anxious about dress than the men. Their lower garment is bound tight round them, except when they go a fishing, and then they are careful that the men shall not see them. It once happened that some of the ship’s crew surprized them in this situation, when some of them hid themselves among the rocks, and the rest kept their bodies under water till they had formed a girdle and apron of weeds; in a word, their whole behaviour manifested the most refined ideas of female modesty.

The ears of both sexes are bored, and the holes stretched so as to admit a man’s finger. The ornaments of their ears are feathers, cloth, bones, and sometimes bits of wood; a great many of them made use of the nails which were given them by the English, for this purpose, and the women sometimes adorned their ears with the white down of the albatross, which they spread before and behind the hole, in a large bunch. They likewise hung to their ears by strings, chissels, bodkins, the teeth of dogs, and the teeth and nails of their deceased friends. The arms and ancles of the women are adorned with shells and bones, or any thing else through which they can pass a string. The men wear a piece of green talc, or whalebone, with the resemblance of a man carved on it, hanging to a string round the neck. They saw one man who had the gristle of his nose perforated, and a feather being passed through it, projected over each cheek.

These people shew less ingenuity in the structure of their houses, than in any thing else belonging to them; they are from sixteen to twenty-four feet long, ten or twelve wide, and six or eight in height. The frame is of slight sticks of wood, and the walls and roof are made of dry grass pretty firmly compacted. Some of them are lined with the bark of trees, and the ridge of the house is formed by a pole, which runs from one end to the other. The door is only high enough to admit a person crawling on hands and knees and the roof is sloping. There is a square hole near the door, serving both for window and chimney, near which is the fire-place. A plank is placed near the door, adorned with a sort of carving, and this they consider as an ornamental piece of furniture. The side walls and roof projecting two or three feet beyond the walls at each end, form a sort of portico, where benches are placed to sit on. The fire is made in the middle of a hollow square in the floor, which is enclosed with wood or stone. They sleep near the walls, where the ground is covered with straw for their beds.

Some who can afford it, and whose families are large, have three or four houses, enclosed within a court yard. Their cloaths, arms, feathers, some ill-made tools, and a chest, in which all these are deposited, form all the furniture of the inside of the house. Their hammers to beat fern-root, gourds to hold water, and baskets to contain provisions, are placed without the house.

One house was found near forty feet long, twenty wide, and fourteen high. Its sides were adorned with carved planks of workmanship superior to the rest; but the building appeared to have been left unfinished.

Though the people sleep warm enough at home, they seem to despise the inclemency of the weather, when they go in search of fish or fern-roots. Sometimes, indeed, they place a small defence to windward; but frequently sleep under bushes, with their arms placed round them, without the least shelter whatever.

Besides the fern-root, which serves them for bread, they feed on albatrosses, penguins, and some other birds. Whatever they eat is either roasted or baked, as they have no vessel in which water can be boiled.

They saw no plantations of coccos, potatoes and yams, to the southward, though there were many in the northern parts.--The natives drink no other liquor than water, and enjoy perfect and uninterrupted health.--When wounded in battle, the wound heals in a very short time without the application of medicine; and the very old people carry no other marks of decay about them than the loss of their hair and teeth, and a failure of their muscular strength:--but enjoy an equal share of health and chearfulness with the youngest.--Such are the happy effects of exercise and temperance!

The canoes of this country are not unlike the whale-boats of New England, being long and narrow. The larger sort seem to be built for war, and will hold from thirty to one hundred men. One of these at Tolaga measured near seventy feet in length, six in width, and four in depth. It was sharp at the bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong plaiting: each side was formed of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, and about an inch and a half thick, which were fitted to the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. Several thwarts were laid from one side to the other, to which they were securely fastened, in order to strengthen the canoes.

Some few of their canoes, at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, are all made entirely of one trunk of wood, which is made hollow by fire: but by far the greater part are built after the plan above described. The smaller boats, which are used chiefly in fishing, are adorned at head and stern with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are composed of the white shells of sea-ears, a tongue of enormous size is thrust out of the mouth, and the whole face is a picture of the most absolute deformity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war, are ornamented with open work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which gives the whole an air of perfect elegance: the side boards, which are carved in a rude manner, are embellished with tufts of white feathers.

These vessels are rowed with a kind of paddles, between five and fix feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually decreasing till it reaches the handle; and the velocity with which they row with these paddles is really surprising. Their sails are composed of a kind of mat or netting, which is extended between two upright poles, one of which is fixed on each side. Two ropes, fastened to the top of each pole, serve instead of sheets. The vessels are steered by two men, having each a paddle, and sitting in the stern; but they can only sail before the wind, in which direction they move with considerable swiftness.

These Indians use axes, adzes and chissels, with which last they likewise bore holes. The chissels are made of jasper, or of the bone of a man’s arm; and their axes and adzes of a hard black stone. They use their small jasper tools till they are blunted, and then throw them away, having no instrument to sharpen them with. The Indians at Tolaga having been presented with a piece of glass, drilled a hole through it, and hung it round the neck. A small bit of jasper is thought to have been the tool they used in drilling it.

Their tillage of the ground is excellent, owing to the necessity they are under of cultivating or running the risk of starving. At Tegadoo their crops were just put into the ground, and the surface of the field was as smooth as a garden, the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there remained a hillock. A long narrow stake, sharpened to an edge at bottom, with a piece fixed across a little above it, for the convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, supplies the place both of plough and spade. The soil being light, their work is not very laborious, and with this instrument alone they will turn up ground of six or seven acres in extent.

The seine, the large net which has been already noticed, is produced by the united labour, and is probably the joint property of a whole town. Their fish-hooks are of shell or bone; and they have baskets of wicker-work to hold the fish.

Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, and the patoo-patoo. The spear, which is pointed at each end, is about sixteen feet in length, and they hold it in the middle, so that it is difficult to parry a push from it. Whether they fight in boats or on shore, the battle is hand to hand, so that they must make bloody work of it. They trust chiefly in the patoo patoo, which is fastened to their wrists by means of a strong strap, that it may not be wrenched out of their hand. These are worn in the girdles of people of a superior rank, as a military ornament. They have a kind of staff of distinction, which is carried by the principal warriors. It is formed of a whale’s rib, is quite white, and adorned with carvings, feathers, and the hair of their dogs; and they sometimes carried a stick six feet long, inlaid with shells, and otherwise adorned like the military staff. This honourable mark of distinction was commonly borne by the old men.

When they came to attack the English, there was usually one or more thus distinguished in each canoe. It was their custom to stop at about fifty or sixty yards distance from the ship, when the commanding officer, arising from his seat, and putting on a garment of dog’s skin, used to direct them how to proceed. When they were too far from the ship to reach it either with stone or lance, they cried out, _Haromai, haromai, harre uta a patoo-patoo oge_.--“Come to us, come on shore, and we will kill you all with our patoo-patoos.” During these menaces they approached the ship, till they came along-side, talking peaceably at intervals, and answering whatever questions they were asked. Then again their threats were renewed, till, imagining the sailors were afraid of them, they began the war-song and dance--an engagement always followed, and sometimes continued till the firing of small shot repulsed them; at others, only till they had satiated their vengeance by throwing a few stones on board the ship.

In the war-dance, their motions are numerous, their limbs are distorted, and their faces are agitated. Their tongue hangs out of their mouths to a vast length, and their eye-lids are drawn so as to form a circle round the eye; they shake their darts, brandish their spears, and wave their patoo-patoos to and fro in the air. They accompany this dance with a song, which is sung in concert; every strain ending with a loud and deep sigh. There is an activity and vigour in their dancing, which is truly admirable; and their idea of keeping time in music is such, that sixty or eighty paddles will strike at once against the sides of their boats, and make only one report.

They sometimes sing, in times of peace, in a manner resembling the war-song; but then they do not dance with it. The women, whose voices are exceeding soft and harmonious, likewise sing in a melodious, but mournful manner; and their songs appear as if sung in parts. Their instruments of musick are, a shell, from which they produce a sound, resembling that made by a common horn; and a wooden pipe, not superior in musical found to a child’s whistle.

These people fortify all their hippahs, or towns, of which there are several between the bay of Plenty and queen Charlotte’s sound. In these the inhabitants of those parts constantly reside; but near Tolaga, Tegadoo, Hawk’s bay, and Poverty bay, there are no towns, only single houses at a considerable distance apart. On the sides of the hills were erected long stages, supplied with darts and stones, which were thought to be retreats in time of battle, and on which, from their elevated situation, they can combat the enemy with these weapons to great advantage. In these repositories they store their dried fish and fern-roots. The inhabitants of this part of the country were all subject to Teratu, who resided near the bay of Plenty; and to their being thus united under one Chief, they owed a security unknown to the inhabitants of the other parts of the country. There were several inferior governors in Teratus’s dominions, to whom the most implicit obedience was paid. One of the inhabitants having robbed the English, complaint was made to a Chief, who chastised him by kicking and striking him; while the thief bore his punishment with unresisting humility.

The inhabitants of the southern parts appeared to be co-partners in their fishing-nets and fine apparel. The latter, which probably were obtained in war, were kept in a little hut, destined for that use, in the centre of the town, and the several parts of the nets, being made by different families, were afterwards joined together for the common use. The gentlemen imagined, that the employment of the men consisted in cultivating the ground, making nets, catching birds, and fishing; while the women were engaged in weaving cloth, procuring fern-roots, and shell fish, and dressing food.

With regard to religion, they acknowledge one superior being, and several subordinate. Their mode of worship could not be learned, nor was any place proper for that purpose seen. There was indeed a small square area, encompassed with stones, in the middle of which hung a basket of fern-roots on one of their spades. This they said was offered to the gods, in the hope of a plentiful crop of provisions.

The inhabitants of the southern district said, they disposed of their dead by throwing them into the sea; but those of the north said, they buried them in the ground: our adventurers, however, saw not the least sign of any grave or monument; but the body of almost every inhabitant bore the marks of wounds which they had given themselves, in token of grief for the loss or their friends and relations. Some of these scars were newly made, which is a proof that their friends had died while the ship’s crew were there; yet no one saw any thing like a funeral, as these islanders conceal every thing respecting the dead, with the utmost caution.

A great similitude was observed between the dress, furniture, boats and nets of the New Zealanders, and those of the inhabitants of the South-sea islands, which furnished a strong proof, that the common ancestors of both were natives of the same country. Indeed the inhabitants of these different places have a tradition, that their ancestors migrated from another country many ages since; and they both agree, that this country was called HEAWIGE. But perhaps a yet stronger proof that their origin was the same, will arise from the similitude of their language, of which the following is a specimen.

NEW ZEALAND. OTAHEITE.
Whahine, Aheine, _A woman_.
Taata, Tata, _People_.
Heoo-oo, Eraowroo, _The hair_.
Erai, Irai, _The brow_.
Mata, Matau, _The eyes_.
Ahewh, Eahoo, _The nose_.
Paparinga, Paparea, _The cheeks_.
Ateraboo, Eoboo, _The belly_.
Apeto, Pito, _The navel_.
Heromai, Harre mai, _Come hither_.
Taro, Taro, _Coccos_.
Tahai, Tohe, _One_.
Rua, Rooa, _Two_.
Torou, Torhoo, _Three_.
Ha, Ha, _Four_.
Etu, Hitoo, _Seven_.
Iva, Iva, _Nine_.
Heneaho, Eneeho, _The teeth_.

They sailed from Cape Farewell on the 31st of March 1770, and had fine weather and a fair wind till the 9th of April, when they saw a tropic bird, in the latitude of 38 degrees 29 minutes south, a sight very unusual in so high a latitude. On the 15th they saw an egg-bird and a gannet; and on the day following a small land-bird perched on the rigging, from which they concluded they were near land; but they found no ground with 120 fathom. On the 18th, in the morning, they saw a pintado-bird, and some Port Egmont hens, an infallible sign that land was not very distant. At six o’clock in the morning of the 19th they discovered land four or five leagues distant; the southermost part of which was called POINT HICKS, in compliment to Mr. Hicks, the first Lieutenant, who made the discovery of it. At noon they discovered another point of the same land, rising in a round hillock, extremely like the Ram-Head at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, for which reason Captain Cook gave it the same name. What they had yet seen of the land was low and even, and the inland parts were green, and covered with wood. They now saw three water-spouts at the same time, one of which continued a quarter of an hour. At six in the evening the northermost point on the main land, which was distant about two leagues, was named CAPE HOWE. On the following day they had a distant view of the country, which was in general covered with wood, and interspersed with several small lawns. It appeared to be inhabited, as smoke was seen in several places. At four o’clock the next morning they saw a high mountain, which, from its shape, they called MOUNT DROMEDARY, under which there is a point, which received the name of POINT DROMEDARY. In the evening they were opposite a point of land which rose perpendicularly, and was called POINT UPRIGHT. On Sunday the 22d they were so near the shore, as to see several of the inhabitants on the coast, who were of a very dark complexion, if not perfect negroes. At noon they saw a remarkably peaked hill, to which the Captain gave the name of the PIGEON-HOUSE, from its resemblance to such a building. The trees on this island were both tall and large; but they saw no place fit to give shelter even to a boat.