Chapter XVIII: Prologue: 1 1 (1)

INTRODUCTION. MEETING OF MASTER AND PUPIL 2-3 13
[Headnote: IOHN RUSSELL MEETS WITH HIS PUPIL.]

THE PANTER OR BUTLER. HIS DUTIES 3-9 41
(And Herein of Broaching Wine, of Fruits and Cheese,
and of the Care of Wines in Wood)
[Headnote: THE DUTIES OF THE PANTER OR BUTLER.]
[Headnote: OF FRUITS BEFORE DINNER AND AFTER SUPPER.]
[Headnote: THE TREATMENT OF WINES WHEN FERMENTING.]
NAMES OF SWEET WINES 9 117
HOW TO MAKE YPOCRAS 9-12 121
[Headnote: HOW TO MAKE YPOCRAS.]
THE BOTERY 12-13 177
[Headnote: THE BOTERY.]
HOW TO LAY THE TABLE-CLOTH, ETC. 13-14 185
[Headnote: HOW TO LAY THE CLOTH AND WRAP UP BREAD.]
HOW TO WRAP UP BREAD STATELY 14-16 209
HOW TO MAKE THE SURNAPE 16-17 237
[Headnote: HOW TO LAY THE SURNAPE AND TABLE.]
HOW TO MANAGE AT TABLE 17-18 257

SYMPLE CONDICIONS, 18-21 277
(Or Rules for Good Behaviour for Every Servant)
[Headnote: SYMPLE CONDICIONS: HOW TO BEHAVE.]
THE CONNYNGE OF KERVYNGE 21-3 313
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE, AND TO LAY TRENCHERS.]
FUMOSITEES 23-4 349
[Headnote: FUMOSITEES.]
KERUYNG OF FLESH 24-30 377
[Headnote: KERUYNG OF FLESH.]
BAKE METES (How to Carve) 30-2 477
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE LARGE ROAST BIRDS,
SWAN, CAPON, &C.]
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE THE CRANE, FAWN, VENISON, &C.]
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE LARGE AND SMALL BIRDS.]
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE DOWCETES AND PAYNE PUFF.]
FRIED METES; WITH L’ENVOY 33-4 501
POTAGES 34-5 517
[Headnote: POTAGES.]
DIUERCE SAWCES 35-7 529
[Headnote: THE SAUCES FOR DIFFERENT DISHES.]
KERVYNG OF FISCH{E} 37-45 546
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE HERRINGS AND SALT FISH.]
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE PLAICE AND OTHER FISH.]
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE CRABS AND CRAYFISH.]
[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE WHELKS AND LAMPREYS.]

OFFICE OF A SEWER 46-7 658
(Or Arranger of the Dishes on the Table, etc.)
[Headnote: THE SEWER’S OR ARRANGER’S DUTIES.]
A DYNERE OF FLESCH{E}:
THE FURST COURSE 48 686
[Headnote: FIRST COURSE OF A FLESH DINNER.]
THE SECOND COURSE 49 693
THE iij^D COURSE 49-50 705
[Headnote: 3RD COURSE OF A FLESH DINNER.]
A DINERE OF FISCH{E}:
THE FURST COURSE 50-1 719
[Headnote: 1ST COURSE OF A FISH DINNER.]
THE SECOND COURSE 51 731
THE THRID COURSE 52 744
[Headnote: 3RD AND 4TH COURSES OF A FISH DINNER.]
THE .iiij. COURSE OF FRUTE, WITH FOUR SOTELTEES 52-3 757
THE SUPERSCRIPCIOUN OF THE SUTILTEES
ABOUE SPECIFIED 53-4 787
A FEST FOR A FRANKLEN 54-5 795
[Headnote: A FEST FOR A FRANKLEN.]
SEWES ON FISH{E} DAYES 55-6 819
SAWCE FOR FISCH{E} 56-9 831
[Headnote: SAUCE FOR FISH.]

THE OFFICE OFF A CHAMBURLAYNE 59-64 863
(How to Dress Your Lord, Prepare his Pew in Church,
Strip his Bed, Prepare his Privy, etc.)
[Headnote: THE OFFICE OFF A CHAMBURLAYNE.]
THE WARDEROBES 64-6 939
(How to Put Your Lord to Bed,
and Prepare his Bedroom, etc.)
[Headnote: THE CHAMBERLAIN IN THE WARDEROBES.]
[Headnote: TO PUT A LORD TO BED.]
A BATHE OR STEWE SO CALLED 66-7 975
(How to Prepare One for Your Lord)
[Headnote: TO MAKE A BATH.]
THE MAKYNG OF A BATH{E} MEDICINABLE 67-9 991
[Headnote: THE MAKYNG OF A BATHE MEDICINABLE.]
THE OFFICE OF VSSHER & MARSHALL{E} 69-78 1001
(With the Order of Precedency of All Ranks)
[Headnote: USHER AND MARSHAL: THE ORDER OF
PRECEDENCE OF PERSONS.]
[Headnote: USHER & MARSHAL: WHAT PEOPLE RANK
AND DINE TOGETHER.]
[Headnote: USHER AND MARSHAL: OF BLOOD ROYAL
AND PROPERTY.]
[Headnote: THE DIFFERENCES OF MEN EQUAL IN RANK.]

THE SUMMARY 78-82 1173
[Headnote: THE DUTIES OF THE USHER AND MARSHAL.]
[Headnote: THE USHER AND MARSHAL IS THE
CHIEF OFFICER.]
L’ENVOY 82-3 1235
(The Author Asks the Prayers of his Readers,
and He or the Copier Commends this Book to Them)
[Headnote: IOHN RUSSELLS REQUEST TO THE READER.]

NOTES 84-123
(With Bits from Lawrens Andrewe, on Fish, &c.)

ILLUSTRATIVE EXTRACTS.
WILYAM BULLEYN ON BOXYNG AND NECKEWEEDE 124-7
ANDREW BORDE ON SLEEP, RISING, AND DRESS 128-32
WILLIAM VAUGHAN’S 15 DIRECTIONS TO PRESERVE HEALTH 133-7
SIR JN. HARINGTON’s DYET FOR EVERY DAY 138-9
SIR JN. HARINGTON ON RISING, DIET, AND GOING TO BED 140-3

John Russells

Boke of Nurture.

[_Harl. MS. 4011, Fol. 171._]

[Sidenote: In the name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, God
keep me! I am an Usher to a Prince, and delight in teaching the
inexperienced.]

++In nomine patris, god kepe me / et filij for charite,
Et spiritus sancti, wher{e} that y goo by lond or els by see!
an vssher{e} y Am / ye may behold{e} /
to a prynce of high{e} degre,
þat enioyeth{e} to enforme & teche /
all{e} þo thatt will{e} thrive & thee[1], 4

Of suche thyng{es} as her{e}-aft{ur} shall{e} be shewed
by my diligence
To them þat nought Can / w{i}t{h}-owt gret exsperience;
Therfor{e} yf any mañ þ{a}t y mete with{e},
þat[2] for fawt of necligence,
y wyll{e} hym enforme & teche,
for hurtyng{e} of my Conscience. 8

[Sidenote: It is charitable to teach ignorant youths. If any such
won’t learn, give them a toy.]

To teche vertew and co{n}nyng{e}, me thynketh{e} hit charitable,
for moche youth{e} in co{n}nyng{e} / is bareñ & full{e} vnable;
þer-for{e} he þ{a}t no good cañ / ne to nooñ will{e} be agreable.
he shall{e} neu{er} y-thryve /
þ{er}for{e} take to hym a babull{e}. 12

[Headnote: IOHN RUSSELL MEETS WITH HIS PUPIL.]

[Sidenote: One May I went to a forest, and by the Forester’s leave
walked in the woodland,]

++As y rose owt of my bed, in a mery sesou{n} of may,
to sporte me in a forest /
wher{e} sightes wer{e} fresch{e} & gay,
y met w{i}t{h} þe forst{er} / y prayed hym to say me not nay,
þat y mygh[t] walke in to his lawnde[3] where þe deer{e} lay. 16

[Sidenote: where I saw three herds of deer in the sunshine.]

as y wandered weldsomly[4] / in-to þe lawnd þat was so grene,
þer lay iij. herdis of deer{e} / a semely syght for to sene;
y behild oñ my right hand / þe soñ þat shoñ so shene;
y saw wher{e} walked / a semely yong{e} mañ,
þat sklendur was & leene; 20

[Sidenote: A young man with a bow was going to stalk them, but I
asked him to walk with me, and inquired whom he served.]

his bowe he toke in hand toward þe deer{e} to stalke;
y prayed hym his shote to leue / & softely w{i}t{h} me to walke.
þis yong{e} mañ was glad / & louyd w{i}t{h} me to talke,
he prayed þat he myȝt with{e} me goo /
in to som herne[5] or halke[6]; 24

[Sidenote: ‘No one but myself, and I wish I was out of this
world.’]

þis yong{e} mañ frayned[7] / w{i}t{h} hoom þ{a}t he wo{n}ned þañ,
“So god me socour{e},” he said / “Sir, y serue myself /
& els nooñ oþ{er} mañ.”
“is þy gou{er}naunce good?” y said, / “soñ, say me ȝiff þow cañ.”
“y wold y wer{e} owt of þis world” / seid he /
“y ne rouȝt how sone whañ.” 28

[Sidenote: ‘Good son, despair is sin; tell me what the matter is.
When the pain is greatest the cure is nearest!’]

“Sey nought so, good soñ, bewar{e} /
me thynketh{e} þow menyst amysse;
for god forbedith{e} wanhope, for þat a horrible synne ys,
þerfor{e} Soñ, opeñ thyñ hert /
for p{er}aveñtur{e} y cowd the lis[8];
“wheñ bale is hext / þañ bote is next” /
good sone, lerne well{e} þis.” 32

[Sidenote: ‘Sir, I’ve tried everywhere for a master; but because I
know nothing, no one will take me.’]

“In certeyñ, sir / y haue y-sought /
Ferr{e} & ner{e} many a wilsom way
to gete mete[9] a mastir; & for y cowd nouȝt /
eu{er}y mañ seid me nay,
y cowd no good, ne nooñ y shewd{e} /
wher{e} eu{er} y ede day by day
but wantouñ & nyce, recheles & lewd{e} /
as Iangelyng{e} as a Iay.” 36

[Sidenote: ‘Will you learn if I’ll teach you? What do you want
to be?’]

++“Now, son, ȝiff y the teche,
wiltow any thyng{e} ler{e}? [Fol. 171b.]
wiltow be a s{er}uaunde, plowȝmañ, or a laborer{e},
Courtyour or a clark / Marchaund /
or masou{n}, or an artificer{e},
Chamburlayn, or buttiller{e} / panter{e} or karver{e}?” 40

[Sidenote: ‘A Butler, Sir, Panter, Chamberlain, and Carver. Teach
me the duties of these.’]

++“The office of buttiler, sir, trewly /
panter{e} or chamburlayne,
The connyng{e} of a kerver{e}, specially /
of þat y wold lerne fayne
all{e} þese co{n}nyng{es} to haue / y say yow in certayñ,
y shuld pray for your{e} sowle nevyr to come in payne.” 44

[Headnote: THE DUTIES OF THE PANTER OR BUTLER.]

[Sidenote: ‘I will, if you’ll love God and be true to your
master.’]

++“Son, y shall{e} teche þe with{e} ryght a good will{e},
So þat þow loue god & drede / for þat is ryght and skyll{e},
and to þy mastir be trew /
his good{es} þat þow not spill{e},
but hym loue & drede /
and hys co{m}maundementȝ dew / fulfylle. 48

[Sidenote: A Panter or Butler must have three knives: 1 to chop
loaves, 1 to pare them, 1 to smooth the trenchers.]

The furst yer{e}, my soñ, þow shall{e} be panter{e}
or buttilar{e},
þow must haue iij. knyffes kene /
in pantry, y sey the, eu{er}mar{e}:
Oñ knyfe þe loves to choppe, another{e} them for to pare,
the iij. sharpe & kene to smothe
þe trenchurs and squar{e}.[10] 52

[Sidenote: Give your Sovereign new bread, others one-day-old
bread; for the house, three-day bread; for trenchers four-day
bread;]

alwey thy sou{er}aynes bred thow choppe,
& þat it be newe & able;
se all{e} oþ{er} bred a day old or þ{o}u choppe to þe table;
all{e} howsold bred iij. dayes old / so it is p{ro}fitable;
and trencher bred iiij. dayes is co{n}venyent & agreable. 56

[Sidenote: Have your salt white, and your salt-planer of ivory,
two inches broad, three long.]

loke þy salte be sutill{e}, whyte, fayre and drye,
and þy planer{e} for thy salte / shall{e} be made of yverye /
þe brede þ{er}of ynches two / þen þe length, ynche told thrye;
and þy salt seller{e} lydde / towche not thy salt bye. 60

[Sidenote: Have your table linen sweet and clean, your knives
bright, spoons well washed, two wine-augers some box taps, a
broaching gimlet, a pipe and bung.]

Good soñ, loke þat þy napery be soote / & also feyr{e} & clene,
bordcloth{e}, towell{e} & napkyñ, foldyñ all{e} bydene.
bryght y-pullished your{e} table knyve, semely in syȝt to sene;
and þy spones fayr{e} y-wasch{e} / ye wote well{e} what y meene. 64
looke þow haue tarrers[11] two / a mor{e} & lasse for wyne;
wyne canels[12] accordyng{e} to þe tarrers, of box fetice & fyne;
also a gymlet sharpe / to broche & perce /
sone to turne & twyne,
w{i}t{h} fawcet[13] & tampyne[14] redy /
to stoppe whe{n} ye se tyme. 68

[Sidenote: To broach a pipe, pierce it with an auger or gimlet,
four fingers- breadth over the lower rim, so that the dregs may
not rise.]

So wheñ þow settyst a pipe abroche /
good [sone,] do aft{ur} my lor{e}:
iiij fyngur ou{er} /
þe ner{e} chyne[15] þow may percer or bor{e};
with tarrer{e} or gymlet perce ye vpward þe pipe ashor{e},[16]
and so shall{e} ye not cawse þe lies vp to ryse,
y warne yow eu{er} mor{e}. 72

[Headnote: OF FRUITS BEFORE DINNER AND AFTER SUPPER.]

[Sidenote: Serve Fruit according to the season, figs, dates,
quince-marmalade, ginger, &c.]

Good sone, all{e} man{er} frute /
þat longeth{e} for sesoñ of þe yer{e},
Fygg{es} / reysons / almand{es}, dat{es} /
butt{ur}, chese[17] / nottus, apples, & per{e},
Compost{es}[18] & confit{es}, char{e} de quync{es} /
white & grene gynger{e};
and ffor aft{ur} questyons, or þy lord sytte /
of hym þow know & enquer{e}. 76

[Sidenote: Before dinner, plums and grapes after, pears, nuts, and
hard cheese. After supper, roast apples, &c.]

Serve fastyng{e} / plommys / damsons / cheries /
and grapis to plese; [Fol. 172.]
aft{ur} mete / peer{es}, nottys /
strawberies, wȳneberies,[19] and hardchese,
also blawnderell{es},[20] pepyns / careawey in comfyte /
Compost{es}[21] ar like to þese.
aftur sopper, rosted apples, per{es},
blaunche powd{er},[22] yo{ur} stomak for to ese. 80

[Sidenote: In the evening don’t take cream, strawberries, or
junket, unless you eat hard cheese with them.]

[Footnote *: ‘at eve’ has a red mark through as if to cut it out]

Bewar at eve[*] / of crayme of cowe & also of the goote,
þauȝ it be late,
of Strawberies & hurtilberyes /
w{i}t{h} the cold Ioncate,[23]
For þese may marr{e} many a mañ changyng{e} his astate,
but ȝiff he haue aft{u}r, hard chese /
wafurs, w{i}t{h} wyne ypocrate.[24] 84

[Sidenote: Hard cheese keeps your bowels open.]

hard chese hath{e} þis condiciou{n} in his operaciou{n}:
Furst he will{e} a stomak kepe in the botom opeñ,[25]
the helth{e} of eu{er}y creatur{e} ys in his condiciou{n};
yf he diete hym̅ thus dayly / he is a good co{n}clusiou{n}. 88

[Sidenote: Butter is wholesome in youth and old age,
anti-poisonous, and aperient.]

buttir is an holsom mete / furst and eke last,[26]
For he will{e} a stomak kepe / & helpe poyson a-wey to cast,
also he norisheth{e} a mañ to be laske /
and evy humer{us} to wast,
and w{i}t{h} white bred / he will{e} kepe þy mouthe in tast. 92

[Sidenote: Milk, Junket, Posset, &c., are binding. Eat hard cheese
after them.]

Milke, crayme, and crudd{es}, and eke the Ioncate,[27]
þey close a ma{n}nes stomak / and so doth{e} þe possate;
þerfor{e} ete hard chese aftir, yef ye sowpe late,
and drynk romney modou{n},[28] for feere of chekmate.[29] 96

[Sidenote: Beware of green meat; it weakens your belly.]

bewar{e} of saladis, grene metis, & of frut{es} rawe
for þey make many a mañ haue a feble mawe.
Þ{er}for{e}, of suche fresch lust{es} set not an hawe,
For suche wantou{n} appetit{es} ar not worth a strawe. 100

[Sidenote: For food that sets your teeth on edge, eat almonds and
cheese, but not more than half an ounce.]

all{e} man{er} met{is} þat þy teth{e} oñ egge doth sette,
take almond{es} þ{er}for{e}; & hard chese
loke þ{o}u not for-gette.
hit will{e} voide hit awey /
but looke to moche þ{er}of not þ{o}u ete;
for þe wight of half an vnce w{i}t{h}-owt rompney is gret. 104

[Sidenote: If drinks have given you indigestion, eat a raw apple.
Moderation is best sometimes, at others abstinence.]

Ȝiff dyu{er}se drynk{es} of their{e} fumosite haue þe dissesid,
Ete an appull{e} rawe, & his fumosite will{e} be cesed;
mesur{e} is a mery meene / whañ god is not displesed;
abstyne{n}s is to prayse what body & sowle ar plesed. 108

[Headnote: THE TREATMENT OF WINES WHEN FERMENTING.]

[Sidenote: Look every night that your wines don’t ferment or leak
[the _t_ of the MS. has a _k_ over it.] Always carry a gimlet,
adze, and linen cloths; and wash the heads of the pipes with cold
water.]

Take good hede to þe wynes / Red, white / & swete,
looke eu{er}y nyȝt w{i}t{h} a Candell{e}
þ{a}t þey not reboyle / nor lete;
eu{er}y nyȝt w{i}t{h} cold wat{ur} wash{e} þe pipes hede,
& hit not forgete,
& all{e}-wey haue a gy{m}let, & a dise,[30]
w{i}t{h} lynneñ clowt{es} small{e} or grete. 112

[Sidenote: If the wine boil over, put to it the lees of red wine,
and that will cure it. Romney will bring round sick sweet wine.]

Ȝiff þe wyne reboyle / þow shall{e} know by hys syngyng{e};
þ{er}for{e} a pipe of colour{e} de rose[31] /
þ{o}u kepe þ{a}t was spend in drynkyng{e}
the reboyle to Rakke to þe lies of þe rose /
þ{a}t shall{e} be his amendyng{e}. [Fol. 172b.]
Ȝiff swete wyne be seeke or pallid /
put in a Rompney for lesyng{e}.[32] 116

++Swete Wynes.[33]

[Sidenote: _The names of Sweet Wines._]

++The namys of swete wynes y wold þ{a}t ye them knewe:
Vernage, vernagell{e}, wyne Cute, pyment, Raspise,
Muscadell{e} of grew,
Rompney of modoñ, Bastard, Tyre, Oȝey, Torrentyne of Ebrew.
Greke, Malevesyñ, Caprik, & Clarey whañ it is newe. 120

[Headnote: HOW TO MAKE YPOCRAS.]

++Ypocras.

[Sidenote: _Recipe for making Ypocras._ Take spices thus,
Cinnamon, &c., long Pepper]

++Good soñ, to make ypocras, hit wer{e} gret lernyng{e},
and for to take þe spice þ{er}to aft{ur} þe p{ro}porcionyng{e},

[Sidenote: +for lord{es}[34] [MS].+]

[Sidenote: +fo[r] co{m}mynte+]

Gynger, Synamome / Graynis, Sugur /
Turnesole, þ{a}t is good colouryng{e};
For co{m}myñ peple / Gynger, Canell{e} / long{e} pepur /
hony aft{ur} claryfiyng{e}. 124

[Sidenote: Have three basins and three straining-bags to them;
hang ’em on a perch.]

look ye haue of pewt{ur} basons ooñ, two, & thre,
For to kepe in you{re} powdurs /
also þe lico{ur} þ{er}in to renne wheñ þ{a}t nede be;
to iij. basou{n}s ye must haue iij bagges renners /
so clepe ham we,
& hang{e} þem̅ oñ a p{er}che, & looke þat Sur{e} they be. 128

[Sidenote: Let your ginger be well pared, hard, not worm-eaten,
(Colombyne is better than Valadyne or Maydelyne);]

Se þat your{e} gynger be well{e} y-pared /
or hit to powd{er} ye bete,
and þ{a}t hit be hard / w{i}t{h}-owt worme /
bytyng{e}, & good hete;
For good gyng{er} colombyne / is best to drynke and ete;
Gyng{er} valadyne & maydelyñ ar not so holsom in mete. 132

[Sidenote: your sticks of Cinnamon thin, hot and sweet; Canel is
not so good. Cinnamon is hot and dry, Cardamons are hot and
moist.]

looke þat yo{ur} stikk{es} of synamome be thyñ,
bretill{e}, & fayr{e} in colewr{e},
and in your{e} mowth{e}, Fresch{e}, hoot, & swete /
þat is best & sure,
For canell{e} is not so good in þis crafte & cur{e}.
Synamome is hoot & dry in h{i}s worchyng{e}
while he will{e} dur{e}. 136

[Sidenote: Take sugar or sugar candy, red wine,]

Graynes of p{ar}adise,[35] hoote & moyst þey be:
Sugre of .iij. cute[36] / white /
hoot & moyst in his p{ro}purte;
Sugr{e} Candy is best of all{e}, as y telle the,
and red wyne is whote & drye to tast, fele, & see, 140

[Sidenote: graines, ginger, pepper, cinnamon, spice, and
turnesole, and put each powder in a bladder by itself.]

Graynes[35] / gyng{er}, long{e} pepur, & sugr{e} /
hoot & moyst in worchyng{e};[37]
Synamome / Canelle[38] / red wyne /
hoot & drye in þeir{e} doyng{e};
Turnesole[39] is good & holsom for red wyne colowryng{e}:
all{e} þese ingredyent{es}, þey ar for ypocras makyng{e}. 144

[Sidenote: Hang your straining-bags so that they mayn’t
touch,--first bag a gallon, others a pottle.]

Good soñ, your{e} powdurs so made,
vche by þam self in bledd{ur} laid,
hang{e} sur{e} your{e} p{er}che & bagges
þ{a}t þey from yow not brayd,
& þat no bagge touche oþ{er} / do as y haue yow said{e};
þe furst bag a galou{n} / all{e} oþ{er} of a potell{e},
vchoñ by oþ{er} teied. 148

[Sidenote: Put the powders in two or three gallons of red wine;
then into the runner, the second bag,]

Furst put in a basou{n} a galou{n}
ij. or iij. wyne so red; [Fol. 173.]
þeñ put in your{e} powdurs, yf ye will{e} be sped,
and aftyr in-to þe renner{e} so lett hym be fed,
þañ in-to þe second bagge so wold it be ledde. 152

[Sidenote: (tasting and trying it now and then), and the third
vessel.]

loke þ{o}u take a pece in þyne hand eu{er}mor{e} among{e},
and assay it in þy mouth{e} if hit be any thyng{e} strong{e},
and if þow fele it welle boþe w{i}t{h} mouth{e} & tong{e},
þañ put it in þe iij. vessell{e} / & tary not to long{e}. 156

[Sidenote: If it’s not right, add cinnamon, ginger, or sugar, as
wanted.]

And þañ ȝiff þ{o}u feele it be not made p{ar}fete,
þat it cast to moche gyng{er}, with synamome alay þ{a}t hete;
and if hit haue synamome to moche,
w{i}t{h} gyng{er} of iij. cute;
þañ if to moche sigur{e} þ{er} be /
by discressiou{n} ye may wete. 160

[Sidenote: If it’s not right, add cinnamon, ginger, or sugar, as
wanted. Mind you keep tasting it. Strain it through bags of fine
cloth,]

Thus, son, shaltow make p{ar}fite ypocras, as y the say;
but w{i}t{h} þy mowth{e} to prove hit, /
be þow tastyng{e} all{e}-way;
let hit renne in iiij. or vj bagg{es}[40];
gete þem, if þow may,
of bultell{e} cloth{e}[41], if þy bagg{es} be þe fyner{e}
w{i}t{h}-owteñ nay. 164

[Sidenote: hooped at the mouth, the first holding a gallon, the
others a pottle,]

Good soñ loke þy bagg{es} be hoopid at þe mothe a-bove,
þe surer{e} mayst þow put in þy wyne vn-to þy behoue,
þe furst bag of a galou{n} /
all{e} oþ{er} of a potell{e} to prove;
hang{e} þy bagg{es} sur{e} by þe hoopis; do so for my loue; 168

[Sidenote: and each with a basin under it. The Ypocras is made.
Use the dregs in the kitchen.]

And vndur eu{er}y bagge, good soñ, a basou{n} cler{e} & bryght;
and now is þe ypocras made / for to plese many a wight.
þe draff of þe spicery / is good for Sewes in kychyn diȝt;
and ȝiff þow cast hit awey, þow dost þy mastir no riȝt. 172

[Sidenote: Put the Ypocras in a tight clean vessel, and serve it
with wafers.]

++Now, good son, þyne ypocras is made p{ar}fite & well{e};
y wold þan ye put it in staunche & a clene vessell{e},
and þe mouth{e} þ{er}-off y-stopped eu{er} more wisely & fell{e},
and s{er}ue hit forth w{i}t{h} wafurs boþe in chambur & Cell{e}. 176

[Headnote: THE BOTERY.]

[Sidenote: _The Buttery._]

++The botery.

[Sidenote: Keep all cups, &c., clean. Don’t serve ale till it’s
five days old.]

++Thy cuppes / þy pott{es}, þ{o}u se be clene
boþe w{i}t{h}-in & owt;
[T]hyne ale .v. dayes old er þow s{er}ue it abowt,
for ale þat is newe is wastable w{i}t{h}-owteñ dowt:
And looke þat all{e} þyng{e} be pure & clene þat ye go abowt. 180

[Sidenote: Be civil and obliging, and give no one stale drink.]

Be fayr{e} of answer{e} / redy to s{er}ue /
and also gentell{e} of cher{e},
and þañ meñ will{e} sey
‘þer{e} goth{e} a gentill{e} officer{e}.’
be war{e} þat ye geue no p{er}sone palled[42] drynke,
for feer{e}
hit myȝt bryng{e} many a man in dissese /
duryng{e} many a ȝer{e}. 184

[Headnote: HOW TO LAY THE CLOTH AND WRAP UP BREAD.]

[Sidenote: _To lay the cloth_, &c. Wipe the table. Put a cloth
on it (a cowche); you take one end, your mate the other;]

++Son, hit is tyme of þe day /
þe table wold be layde. [Fol. 173b.]
Furst wipe þe table w{i}t{h} a cloth{e}
or þ{a}t hit be splayd,
þañ lay a cloth{e} oñ þe table /
a cowche[43] it is called & said:
take þy felow ooñ ende þ{er}of /
& þ{o}u þat other{e} that brayde, 188

[Sidenote: lay the fold of the second cloth(?) on the outer edge
of the table, that of the third cloth(?) on the inner.]

Thañ draw streight þy cloth{e}, & ley þe bouȝt[44]
oñ þe vtt{ur} egge of þe table,
take þe vpper part / & let hyt hang{e} evyñ able:
þanñ take þe .iij. cloth{e}, & ley the bouȝt
oñ þe Inner side plesable,
and ley estate w{i}t{h} the vpper part,
þe brede of half fote is greable. 192

[Sidenote: Cover your cupboard with a diaper towel, put one round
your neck, one side on your left arm with your sovereign’s
napkin;]

Cover þy cuppeborde of thy ewery w{i}t{h}
the towell{e} of diapery;
take a towell{e} abowt thy nekke / for þat is curtesy,
lay þ{a}t ooñ side of þe towaile oñ þy lift arme manerly,
an oñ þe same arme ley þy sou{er}aignes napkyñ honestly; 196

[Sidenote: on that, eight loaves to eat, and three or four
trencher loaves: in your left the salt-cellar. In your right hand,
spoons and knives.]

þañ lay oñ þat arme viij. louys bred /
w{i}t{h} iij. or iiij. trencher{e} lovis;
Take þat oo ende of þy towaile /
in þy lift hand, as þe man{er} is,
and þe salt Seller{e} in þe same hand, looke þ{a}t ye do this;
þat oþ{er} ende of þe towaile /
in riȝt hand w{i}t{h} spones & knyffes y-wis; 200

[Sidenote: Put the Salt on the right of your lord; on its left,
a trencher or two; on their left, a knife, then white rolls,]

Set your{e} salt oñ þe right side /
wher{e} sitt{es} your{e} soverayne,
oñ þe lyfft Side of your{e} salt /
sett your{e} trencher oon & twayne,
oñ þe lifft side of yo{ur} tr{e}nchour{e} lay
your{e} knyffe syng{u}l{e}r & playñ;

[Textnote: [* a space in the MS.]]

and oñ þe ....[*] side of your{e} knyff{es} /
ooñ by oñ þe white payne; 204

[Sidenote: and beside them a spoon folded in a napkin. Cover
all up. At the other end set a Salt and two trenchers.]

your{e} spone vppoñ a napkyñ fayr{e} / ȝet foldeñ wold he be,
besides þe bred it wold be laid, soñ, y telle the:
Cover your spone / napkyñ, trencher, & knyff,
þ{a}t no mañ hem se.
at þe oþ{er} ende of þe table /
a salt w{i}t{h} ij. trenchers sett ye. 208

[Sidenote: _How to wrap up your lord’s bread in a stately way._
Cut your loaves all equal.]

[Textnote: [† ? MS.]]

+S+{ir},[†] ȝeff þow wilt wrappe þy sou{er}aynes bred stately,
Thow must square & p{ro}porciou{n} þy bred clene & evenly,
and þat no loof ne bunne be mor{e} þañ oþ{er} p{ro}porcionly,
and so shaltow make þy wrappe for þy mast{er} man{er}ly; 212

[Sidenote: Take a towel two and a half yards long by the ends,
fold up a handful from each end,]

þañ take a towaile of Raynes,[45] of ij. yard{es}
and half wold it be,
take þy towaile by the end{es} dowble /
and fair{e} oñ a table lay ye,
þañ take þe end of þ{a}t bought /
an handfull{e} in hande, now her{e} ye me:
wrap ye hard þat handfull{e} or mor{e} it is þe styffer,
y telle þe 216

[Sidenote: and in the middle of the folds lay eight loaves or
buns, bottom to bottom;]

Þañ ley betwene þe endes so wrapped, in myddes of þat towell{e},
viij loves or bonnes, botom to botom̅,
forsothe it will{e} do well{e},
and wheñ þe looff{es} ar betweñ,
þañ wrappe hit wisely & fell{e};
and for your{e} enformaciou{n}
mor{e} playnly y will{e} yow tell{e}, 220

[Sidenote: put a wrapper on the top, twist the ends of the towel
together, smooth your wrapper,]

ley it oñ þe vpper part of þe bred,
y telle yow honestly; [Fol. 174.]
take boþe endis of þe towell{e}, & draw þem straytly,
and wrythe an handfull{e} of þe towell{e}
next þe bred myghtily,
and se þat thy wrapper{e} be made strayt & evyñ styffely. 224

[Sidenote: and quickly open the end of it before your lord.]

wheñ he is so y-graithed,[46] as riȝt befor{e} y haue saide,
þeñ shall{e} ye opeñ hym thus / & do hit at a brayd,
opeñ þe last end of þy wrapper{e} befor{e} þi sou{er}ayne laid,
and your{e} bred sett in man{er} & forme:
þeñ it is honestly arayd. 228

[Sidenote: After your lord’s lay the other tables. Deck your
cupboard with plate, your washing-table with basins, &c.]

++Soñ, wheñ þy sou{er}eignes table is drest in þus array,
kou{er} all{e} oþ{er} bord{es} w{i}t{h} Salt{es};
trenchers & cuppes þ{er}oñ ye lay;
þan emp{er}iall{e} þy Cuppeborde /
w{i}t{h} Silu{er} & gild full{e} gay,
þy Ewry borde w{i}t{h} basons & lauo{ur},
wat{ur} hoot & cold, eche oþ{er} to alay. 232

[Sidenote: Have plenty of napkins, &c., and your pots clean.]

loke p{a}t ye haue napkyns, spones, & cuppis eu{er} y-nowe
to your sou{er}aynes table, your{e} honeste for to allowe,
also þat pott{es} for wyne & ale be as clene as þey mowe;
be eu{er}more war{e} of flies & mot{es},
y telle þe, for þy prowe. 236

[Headnote: HOW TO LAY THE SURNAPE AND TABLE.]

[Sidenote: Make the _Surnape_ with a cloth under a double napkin.]

++The surnape[47] ye shull{e} make w{i}t{h} lowly curtesye
with a cloth{e} vndir a dowble of riȝt feir{e} napry;
take thy towailes end{es} next yow w{i}t{h}-out vilanye,
and þe ende of þe cloth{e} oñ þe vttur side
of þe towell{e} bye; 240

[Sidenote: Fold the two ends of your towel, and one of the cloth,
a foot over, and lay it smooth for your lord to wash with.]

Thus all{e} iij. end{es} hold ye at onis, as ye well{e} may;
now fold ye all{e} ther{e} at oonys
þ{a}t a pliȝt passe not a fote brede all{e} way,
þañ lay hyt fayr{e} & evyñ þer{e} as ye cañ hit lay;
þus aft{ur} mete, ȝiff yowr{e} mastir will{e} wasch{e},
þat he may. 244

[Sidenote: The marshal must slip it along the table, and pull it
smooth.]

at þe riȝt ende of þe table ye must it owt gyde,
þe marchall{e} must hit convey along{e} þe table to glide;
So of all{e} iij clothes vppeward þe riȝt half þat tide,
and þat it be draw strayt & evyñ boþe in length{e} & side. 248

[Sidenote: Then raise the upper part of the towel, and lay it
even, so that the Sewer (arranger of dishes) may make a state.]

Then must ye draw & reyse / þe vpper p{ar}te of þe towell{e},
Ley it w{i}t{h}-out ruffelyng{e} streiȝt
to þat oþ{er} side, y þe telle;
þañ at eu{er}y end þ{er}of convay half a yarde or an elle,
þat þe sewer{e} may make[A] a state /
& plese h{i}s mastir well{e}. 252

[Text note A: _make_ is repeated in the MS.]

[Sidenote: When your lord has washed, take up the Surnape with
your two arms, and carry it back to the Ewery.]

whan þe state hath wasch{e}, þe surnap drawne playne,
þeñ must ye ber{e} forþe þe surnape befor{e} your{e} souerayne,
and so must ye take it vppe with{e} your{e} armes twayne,
and to þe Ewery bere hit your{e} silf agayne. 256

[Sidenote: Carry a towel round your neck. Uncover your bread; see
that all diners have knife, spoon, and napkin.]

a-bowt your{e} nekke a towell{e} ye ber{e},
so to s{er}ue your{e} lorde,
þañ to hym make curtesie, for so it will{e} accorde.
vnkeu{er} your{e} brede, & by þe salt
sette hit euyñ oñ þe borde;
looke þer{e} be knyfe & spone /
& napkyñ w{i}t{h}-outy[{n}] any worde. 260

[Sidenote: Bow when you leave your lord. Take eight loaves from
the bread-cloth, and put four at each end.]

Eu{er} whañ ye dep{ar}te from your{e} sou{er}aigne,
looke ye bowe yo{ur} knees; [Fol. 174b.]
to þe port-payne[48] forth{e} ye passe,
& þer{e} viij. loues ye leese:
Set at eiþur end of þe table .iiij. loofes at a mese,
þañ looke þat ye haue napkyñ &
spone eu{er}y p{er}sone to plese. 264

[Sidenote: Lay for as many persons as the Sewer has set potages
for, and have plenty of bread and drink.]

wayte well{e} to þe Sewer{e} how many potag{es} keuered he;
keu{er} ye so many p{er}sonis for your{e} honeste.
þañ serve forth{e} your{e} table /
vche p{er}sone to his degre,
and þat þ{er} lak no bred / trenchour{e}, ale, & wyne /
eu{er}mor{e} ye se. 268

[Sidenote: Be lively and soft-spoken, clean and well dressed.
Don’t spit or put your fingers into cups.]

be glad of cher{e} / Curteise of kne / & soft of speche,
Fayr{e} hand{es}, clene nayles / honest arrayed, y the teche;
Coughe[*] not, ner spitte, nor to lowd ye reche,
ne put your{e} fyngurs in the cuppe /
moot{es} for to seche. 272

[Footnote *: Mark over _h_.]

[Sidenote: Stop all blaming and backbiting, and prevent
complaints.]

yet to all{e} þe lord{es} haue ye a sight /
for groggy{n}g{e} & atwytyng{e}[49]
of fellows þat be at þe mete, for þeir{e} bakbytyng{e};
Se þey be s{er}ued of bred, ale, & wyne,
for complaynyng{e},
and so shall{e} ye haue of all{e} meñ /
good loue & praysyng{e}. 276

[Headnote: SYMPLE CONDICIONS: HOW TO BEHAVE.]

[Sidenote: _General Directions for Behaviour._]

++Symple condicions.

[Sidenote: Don’t claw your back as if after a flea; or your head,
as if after a louse.]

++Symple Co{n}dicyons of a p{er}sone þ{a}t is not taught,
y will{e} ye eschew, for eu{er}mor{e} þey be nowght.
your{e} hed ne bak ye claw / a fleigh as þaugh{e} ye sought,
ne your{e} heer{e} ye stryke, ne pyke /
to prall{e}[50] for a flesch{e} mought.[51] 280

[Sidenote: See that your eyes are not blinking and watery. Don’t
pick your nose, or let it drop, or blow it too loud,]

Glowtyng{e}[52] ne twynkelyng{e} w{i}t{h} your{e} yȝe /
ne to heuy of cher{e},
watery / wynkyng{e} / ne droppyng{e} /
but of sight cler{e}.
pike not your{e} nose / ne þat hit be droppyng{e}
w{i}t{h} no peerlis cler{e},
Snyff nor snityng{e}[53] hyt to lowd /
lest your{e} sou{er}ayne hit her{e}. 284

[Sidenote: or twist your neck. Don’t claw your cods, rub your
hands,]

wrye not your{e} nek a doyle[54] as hit wer{e} a dawe;
put not your{e} hand{es} in your{e} hoseñ
your{e} codwar{e}[55] fer to clawe,
nor pikyng{e}, nor trifelyng{e} /
ne shrukkyng{e} as þauȝ ye wold sawe;
yo{ur} hond{es} frote ne rub /
brydelynge w{i}t{h} brest vppoñ yo{ur} crawe; 288

[Sidenote: pick your ears, retch, or spit too far. Don’t tell
lies,]

w{i}t{h} your{e} eris pike not / ner be ye slow of heryng{e};
areche / ne spitt to ferr{e} / ne haue lowd laughyng{e};
Speke not lowd / be war of mowyng{e}[56] & scornyng{e};
be no lier w{i}t{h} your{e} mouth{e} /
ne lykorous, ne dryvelyng{e}. 292

[Sidenote: or squirt with your mouth, gape, pout, or put your
tongue in a dish to pick dust out.]

w{i}t{h} your{e} mouthe ye vse nowþ{er} to squyrt, nor spowt;
be not gapyng{e} nor ganyng{e}, ne w{i}t{h} þy mouth to powt
lik not w{i}t{h} þy tong{e} in a disch, a mote to haue owt.
Be not rasche ne recheles, it is not worth a clowt. 296

[Sidenote: Don’t cough, hiccup, or belch, straddle your legs, or
scrub your body.]

w{i}t{h} your{e} brest / sigh{e}, nor cowgh{e} /
nor brethe, your{e} sou{er}ayne befor{e}; [Fol. 175.]
be yoxing{e},[57] ne bolkyng{e} /
ne gronyng{e}, neu{er} þe more;
w{i}t{h} your{e} feet trampelyng{e},
ne settyng{e} your{e} leggis a shor{e}[58];
w{i}t{h} your{e} body be not shrubbyng{e}[59];
Iettyng{e}[60] is no loor{e}. 300

[Sidenote: Don’t pick your teeth, cast stinking breath on your
lord, fire your stern guns, or expose your codware before your
master.]

Good soñ, þy teth{e} be not pikyng{e}, grisyng{e},[61]
ne gnastynge[62];
ne stynkyng{e} of breth{e} oñ your{e} sou{er}ayne castyng{e};
w{i}t{h} puffyng{e} ne blowyng{e},
nowþ{er} full{e} ne fastyng{e};
and all{e} wey be war{e} of þy hyndur part
from gu{n}nes blastyng{e}. 304

These Cuttid[63] galaunt{es} with their{e} codwar{e};
þat is añ vngoodly gise;--
Other tacches[64] as towchyng{e} /
y spar{e} not to mysp{ra}ue aft{ur} myne avise,--
wheñ he shall{e} s{er}ue his mastir,
befor{e} hym̅ oñ þe table hit lyes;
Eu{er}y sou{er}eyne of sadnes[65]
all{e} suche sort shall{e} dispise. 308

[Sidenote: Many other improprieties a good servant will avoid.’]

Many moo condicions a mañ myght fynde /
þañ now ar named her{e},
þ{er}for{e} Eu{er}y honest s{er}uand /
avoyd all{e} thoo, & worshipp{e} lat hym leer{e}.
Panter, yomañ of þe Celler{e}, butler{e}, & Ewer{e},
y will{e} þat ye obeye to þe marshall{e},
Sewer{e}, & kerver{e}.[66]’ 312

[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE, AND TO LAY TRENCHERS.]

[Sidenote: ‘Sir, pray teach me how to carve, handle a knife, and
cut up birds, fish, and flesh.’]

“++Good syr, y yow pray þe connyng{e}[A]
of kervyng{e} ye will{e} me teche,
and þe fayr{e} handlyng{e} of a knyfe, y yow beseche,
and all{e} wey wher{e} y shall{e} all{e} man{er} fowles /
breke, vnlace, or seche,[67]
and w{i}t{h} Fysch{e} or flesch{e},
how shall{e} y demene me w{i}t{h} eche.” 316

[Text note: MS. comynge.]

[Sidenote: ‘Hold your knife tight, with two fingers and a thumb,]

++“Soñ, thy knyfe must be bryght, fayr{e}, & clene,
and þyne hand{es} fair{e} wasch{e}, it wold þe well{e} be sene.
hold alwey thy knyfe sur{e}, þy self not to tene,
and passe not ij. fyngurs & a thombe oñ thy knyfe so kene; 320

[Sidenote: in your midpalm. Do your carving, lay your bread, and
take off trenchers, with two fingers and thumb.]

In mydde wey of thyne hande set the ende of þe haft Sur{e},
Vnlasyng{e} & mynsyng{e} .ij. fyngur{s} w{i}t{h} þe thombe /
þ{a}t may ye endur{e}.
kervyng{e} / of bred leiyng{e} / voydyng{e} /
of cromes & trenchewr{e},
w{i}t{h} ij. fyngurs and a thombe / loke ye haue þe Cure. 324

[Sidenote: Never touch others’ food with your right hand, but only
with the left.]

Sett neu{er} oñ fysch{e} nor flesch{e} / beest /
nor fowle, trewly,
Moor{e} þañ ij. fyngurs and a thombe, for þat is curtesie.
Touche neu{er} w{i}t{h} your{e} right hande
no man{er} mete surely,
but w{i}t{h} your lyft hande / as y seid afor{e},
for þ{a}t is goodlye. 328

[Sidenote: Don’t dirty your table or wipe your knives on it.]

All{e}-wey w{i}t{h} your{e} lift hand
hold yo{ur} loof w{i}t{h} myght, [Fol. 175b.]
and hold your{e} knyfe Sur{e}, as y haue geue yow sight.
enbrewe[68] not your{e} table / for þañ ye do not ryght,
ne þ{er}-vppoñ ye wipe your{e} knyff{es},
but oñ your{e} napkyñ plight. 332

[Sidenote: Take a loaf of trenchers, and with the edge of your
knife raise a trencher, and lay it before your lord;]

Furst take a loofe of trenchurs in þy lifft hande,
þañ take þy table knyfe,[69] as y haue seid afor{e} hande;
w{i}t{h} the egge of þe knyfe
your{e} trencher{e} vp be ye reysande
as nyghe þe poynt as ye may,
to-for{e} your{e} lord hit leyande; 336

[Sidenote: lay four trenchers four-square, and another on the top.
Take a loaf of light bread,]

right so .iiij. trenchers ooñ by a-nothur
.iiij. squar{e} ye sett,
and vppoñ þo trenchurs .iiij. a trenchur
sengle w{i}t{h}-out lett;
þañ take your{e} loof of light payne / as y haue said ȝett,
and w{i}t{h} the egge of þe knyfe nygh{e} your hand ye kett. 340

[Sidenote: pare the edges, cut the upper crust for your lord,]

Furst par{e} þe quarters of the looff round all{e} a-bowt,
þañ kutt þe vpper crust /
for your{e} sou{er}ayne, & to hym alowt.
Suffer{e} your{e} parell{e}[70] to stond still{e}
to þe botom / & so nyȝe y-spend owt,
so ley hym of þe cromes[A] a quarter of þe looff
Sauncȝ dowt; 344

[Text note: MS. _may be_ coomes.]

[Sidenote: and don’t touch it after it’s trimmed. Keep your table
clean.]

Touche neu{er} þe loof aft{ur} he is so tamed,
put it, [on] a plater{e} or þe almes disch þ{er}-for{e} named.
Make clene your{e} bord eu{er}, þañ shall{e} ye not be blamed,
þañ may þe sewer{e} his lord s{er}ue /
& neyth{ur} of yow be gramed[71] 348

[Headnote: FUMOSITEES.]

[Sidenote: _Indigestibilities._]

Fumositees.

[Sidenote: You must know what meat is indigestible, and what
sauces are wholesome.]

++Of all{e} man{er} met{es} ye must thus know & fele
þe fumositees of fysch, flesch{e},
& fowles dyu{er}s & feele,
And all{e} man{er} of Sawc{es} for fisch{e}
& flesch{e} to p{re}serue yo{ur} lord in heele;
to yow it behouyth to knew all{e} þese eu{er}y deele.” 352

++“Syr, hertyly y pray yow for to telle me Certenle
of how many met{es} þat ar fumose in þeir{e} degre.”

[Sidenote: These things are indigestible:]

++“In certeyñ, my soñ, þat sone shall{e} y shew the
by letturs dyu{er}s told{e} by thries thre, 356

[Sidenote: Fat and Fried, Raw and Resty, Salt and Sour,]

+F, R,+ and +S+ / in dyu{er}se tyme and tyde
+F+ is þe furst / þat is, ++Fatt, ++Farsed, & ++Fried;
+R+, ++raw / ++resty, and ++rechy, ar combero{us} vndefied;
+S+ / ++salt / ++sowre / and ++sowse[72] /
all{e} suche þow set a-side, 360

[Sidenote: also sinews, skin, hair, feathers, crops, heads,
pinions, &c., legs, outsides of thighs, skins;]

w{i}t{h} other of the same sort, and lo thus ar thay,
Senowis, skynnes / heer{e} / Cropyns[73] /
yong{e} fedurs for certeñ y say,
heedis / py{n}nyns, boonis / all{e} þese pyke away,
Suffir neu{er} þy sou{er}ayne / to fele þem, y the pray / 364

[Sidenote: these destroy your lord’s rest.’]

All{e} man{er} leggis also, bothe of fowle and beestis,
the vttur side of the thygh{e} or legge
of all{e} fowlis in feest{is},
the fumosite of all{e} man{er} skynnes
y p{ro}mytt þe{e} by heestis,
all{e} þese may benym[74] þy sou{er}ayne /
from many nyght{is} rest{is}.” 368

[Headnote: KERUYNG OF FLESH.]

[Sidenote: ‘Thanks, father, I’ll put your teaching into practice,
and pray for you.]

++“Now fayr{e} befall{e} yow fadur / & well{e} must ye cheve,[75]
For these poyntes by practik y hope full{e} well{e} to p{re}ve,
and yet shall{e} y p{ra}y for yow / dayly while þat y leue /
bothe for body and sowle / þat god yow gyde from greve; 372

[Sidenote: But please tell me how to carve fish and flesh.’]

Prayng{e} yow to take it, fadur / for no displesur{e},
yf y durst desir{e} mor{e} / and þat y myght{e} be sur{e}
to know þe kervyng{e} of fisch{e} & flesch{e} /
aftur cock{es} cur{e}:
y hed leu{er} þe sight of that /
thañ A Scarlet hur{e}.”[76] 376

[Sidenote: _Carving of Meat._]

Kervyng of flesh:

[Sidenote: Cut _brawn_ on the dish, and lift slices off with your
knife;]

++“Son, take þy knyfe as y taught þe while er{e},
kut bravne in þe disch{e} riȝt as hit lieth{e} ther{e},
and to þy sou{er}eynes trenchour{e} / w{i}t{h} þe knyfe /
ye h{i}t ber{e}:
pare þe fatt þ{er}-from / be war{e} of hide & heer{e}. 380

[Sidenote: serve it with mustard. Venison with furmity.]

Thañ whan ye haue it so y-leid / oñ þy lord{es} trenchour{e},
looke ye haue good mustarde þ{er}-to and good licour{e};
Fatt venesou{n} w{i}t{h} frumenty / hit is a gay plesewr{e}
your{e} sou{er}ayne to s{er}ue with in sesou{n}
to his honowr{e}: 384

[Sidenote: Touch _Venison_ only with your knife, pare it, cross it
with 12 scores,]

Towche not þe venisou{n} w{i}t{h} no bare hand
but with{e} þy knyfe; þis wise shall{e} ye be doand{e},
with{e} þe fore part of þe knyfe looke ye be hit parand,
xij. draught{es} w{i}t{h} þe egge
of þe knyfe þe venison crossand{e}. 388

[Sidenote: cut a piece out, and put it in the furmity soup.]

Thañ whañ ye þat venesou{n} so haue chekkid hit, [Fol. 176b.]
with þe fore p{ar}te of your{e} knyfe /
þ{a}t ye hit owt kytt,
In þe frume{n}ty potage honestly ye co{n}vey hit,
in þe same forme w{i}t{h} pesyñ & bakeñ
whañ sesou{n} þ{er}-to doth{e} sitt. 392

[Sidenote: Touch with your left hand, pare it clean, put away the
sinews, &c.]

With{e} your{e} lift hand touche beeff / Chyne[77] /
motou{n}, as is a-for{e} said,
& pare hit clene or þ{a}t ye kerve /
or hit to yo{ur} lord be layd;
and as it is showed afor{e} / bewar{e} of vpbrayd{e};
all{e} fumosite, salt / senow /
Raw / a-side be hit convayd{e}. 396

[Sidenote: _Partridges_, &c.: take up by the pinion, and mince
them small in the sirrup.]

In siripp{e} / p{ar}trich{e} / stokdove /
& chekyns, in s{er}uyng{e},
w{i}t{h} yo{ur} lifft hand take þem
by þe pynoñ of þe whyng{e},
& þat same w{i}t{h} þe fore p{ar}te
of þe knyfe be ye vp reryng{e},
Mynse hem small{e} in þe sirupp{e}:
of fumosite algate be ye feeryng{e}. 400

[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE LARGE ROAST BIRDS, SWAN, CAPON, &C.]

[Sidenote: Larger roast birds, as the _Osprey_, &c., raise up [?
cut off] the legs, then the wings,]

Good soñ, of all{e} fowles rosted y tell{e} yow as y Cañ,
Every goos / teele / Mallard / Ospray / & also swanne,
reyse vp þo leggis of all{e} þese furst, y sey the thañ,
afft{ur} þat, þe whyng{es} large & rownd /
þañ dar{e} blame þe no man; 404

[Sidenote: lay the body in the middle, with the wings and legs
round it, in the same dish.]

Lay the body in mydd{es} of þe disch{e} /
or in a-nod{ur} charger{e},
of vche of þese w{i}t{h} whyng{es} in mydd{es},
þe legg{es} so aftir ther{e}.
of all{e} þese in .vj. lees[78] /
if þat ye[A] will{e}, ye may vppe arer{e},
& ley þem̅ betwene þe legg{es},
& þe whyng{es} in þe same plater{e}. 408

[Text note: _MS. may be_ yo.]

[Sidenote: _Capons:_ take off the wings and legs; pour on ale or
wine, mince them into the flavoured sauce.]

Capoñ, & hen of hawt grees[79], þus wold þey be dight:--
Furst, vn-lace þe whynges, þe legg{es} þan in sight,
Cast ale or wyne oñ þem̅, as þ{er}-to belo{n}geth of ryght,
& mynse þem̅ þañ in to þe sawce w{i}t{h} powdurs kene of myght. 412

[Sidenote: Give your lord the left wing, and if he want it, the
right one too.]

Take capou{n} or heñ so enlased, & devide;
take þe lift whynge; in þe sawce mynce hit eueñ beside,
and yf your{e} sou{er}ayne ete sau{er}ly /
& haue þ{er}to appetide,
þañ mynce þat oþur whyng{e} þ{er}-to
to satisfye hym̅ þ{a}t tyde. 416

[Sidenote: _Pheasants_, &c.: take off the wings, put them in the
dish, then the legs.]

Feysaunt, p{ar}trich{e}, plou{er}, & lapewynk, y yow say,
areyse[80] þe whyng{es} furst / do as y yow pray;
In þe disch{e} forth{e}-with{e}, boþe þat ye ham lay,
þañ aftur þat / þe leggus / w{i}t{h}out lengur delay. 420

[Sidenote: _Woodcocks_, Heronshaws, Brew, &c. break the pinions,
neck, and beak.]

wodcok / Betowr{e}[81] / Egret[82] / Snyte[83] / and Curlew,
heyrou{n}sew[84] / resteratiff þey ar /
& so is the brewe;[85]
þese .vij. fowles / must be vnlaced, y tell{e} yow trew,
breke þe pynons / nek, & beek, þus ye must þem shew. 424

[Sidenote: Cut off the legs, then the wings, lay the body between
them.]

Thus ye must þem vnlace / & in thus manere: [Fol. 177.]
areyse þe leggis / suffir{e} þeir{e} feete still{e}
to be oñ ther{e},
þañ þe whyng{es} in þe disch{e} / ye may not þem forber{e},
þe body þañ in þe middes laid / like as y yow leer{e}. 428

[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE THE CRANE, FAWN, VENISON, &C.]

[Sidenote: _Crane_: take off the wings, but not the trompe in his
breast.]

The Crane is a fowle / þat strong{e} is w{i}t{h} to far{e};
þe whyng{es} ye areyse / full{e} large evyñ thar{e};
of hyr{e} trompe[86] in þe brest / loke þ{a}t ye bewar{e}.
towche not hir trompe / eu{er}mor{e} þat ye spar{e}. 432

[Sidenote: _Peacocks_, &c.: carve like you do the Crane, keeping
their feet on.]

Pecok / Stork / Bustarde / & Shovellewr{e},
ye must vnlace þem in þe plite[87] / of þe crane prest & pur{e},
so þ{a}t vche of þem̅ haue þeyre feete aft{ur} my cur{e},
and eu{er} of a sharpe knyff wayte þat ye be sur{e}. 436

[Sidenote: _Quails_, larks, pigeons: give your lord the legs
first.]

Of quayle / sparow / larke / & litell{e} / m{er}tinet,
pygeou{n} / swalow / thrusch{e} / osull{e} / ye not forgete,
þe legges to ley to yo{ur} sou{er}eyne ye ne lett,
and afturward þe whyngus if his lust be to ete. 440

[Sidenote: _Fawn_: serve the kidney first, then a rib. Pick the
fyxfax out of the neck.]

Off Foweñ / kid / lambe, / þe kydney furst it lay,
Þañ lifft vp the shuldur, do as y yow say,
Ȝiff he will{e} þ{er}of ete / a rybbe to hym̅ convay;
but in þe nek þe fyxfax[88] þat þow do away. 444
venesou{n} rost / in þe disch{e} if your{e} sou{er}ayne hit chese,

[Sidenote: _Pig_: 1. shoulder, 2. rib. _Rabbit_: lay him on his
back; pare off his skin;]

þe shuldir of a pigge furst /
þañ a rybbe, yf hit will{e} hym plese;
þe cony, ley hym oñ þe bak in þe disch, if he haue grece,
while ye par awey þe skyñ oñ vche side /
& þañ breke hym̅ or y[e] sece 448

[Sidenote: break his haunch bone, cut him down each side of the
back, lay him on his belly, separate the sides from the chine, put
them together again,]

betwene þe hyndur legg{is} breke þe canell{e} booñ,[89]
þañ w{i}t{h} your{e} knyfe areyse
þe sides along{e} þe chyne Alone;
so lay yo{ur} cony wombelong{e} vche side to þe chyne /
by craft as y co{n}ne,
betwene þe bulke, chyne, þe sid{es}
to-gedur{e} lat þem be dooñ; 452

[Sidenote: cutting out the nape of the neck; give your lord the
sides.]

The .ij. sides dep{ar}te from þe chyne, þus is my loor{e},
þen ley bulke, chyne, & sides, to-gedir{e} /
as þey wer{e} yor{e}.
Furst kit owte þe nape in þe nek / þe shuldurs befor{e};
w{i}t{h} þe sides serve your{e} sou{er}anyne /
hit state to restor{e}. 456

[Sidenote: Sucking rabbits: cut in two, then the hind part in two;
pare the skin off, serve the daintiest bit from the side.]

Rabett{es} sowkers,[90] þe furþ{er} p{ar}te
from þe hyndur, ye devide;
þañ þe hyndur part at tweyñ ye kut þat tyde,
par{e} þe skyñ away / & let it not þer{e} abide,
þañ s{er}ue your{e} sou{er}ayne of þe same /
þe deynteist of þe side. 460

[Sidenote: Such is the way of carving gross meats.]

++The man{er} & forme of kervyng{e} of met{es}
þat byñ groos, [Fol. 177b.]
afftur my symplenes y haue shewed, as y suppose:
yet, good soñ, amonge oþ{er} estat{es} eu{er} as þow goose,
as ye se / and by vse of your{e} self / ye may gete yow loos. 464

[Sidenote: Cut each piece into four slices (?) for your master to
dip in his sauce.]

But furþ{er}mor{e} enforme yow y must in metis kervyng{e};
Mynse ye must iiij lees[91] / to ooñ morsell{e} hangyng{e},
þat your{e} mastir may take w{i}t{h}
.ij. fyngurs in his sawce dippyng{e},
and so no napkyñ / brest, ne borcloth{e}[92],
in any wise enbrowyng{e}. 468

[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE LARGE AND SMALL BIRDS.]

[Sidenote: Of large birds’ wings, put only three bits at once in
the sauce.]

Of gret fowle / in to þe sawce mynse þe whyng{e} this wise;
pas not .iij. morcell{es} in þe sawc{e} at onis, as y yow avise;
To your{e} sou{er}ayne þe gret fowles legge ley, as is þe gise,
and þus mowe ye neu{er} mysse of all{e} co{n}nyng{e} s{er}uise. 472

[Sidenote: Of small birds’ wings, scrape the flesh to the end of
the bone, and put it on your lord’s trencher.]

Of all{e} man{er} smale brydd{is},
þe whyng{is} oñ þe trencher leying{e},
w{i}t{h} þe poynt of your{e} knyfe /
þe flesch{e} to þe booñ end ye bryng{e},
and so co{n}veye hit oñ þe trencher{e},
þ{a}t wise yo{ur} sou{er}ayne plesyng{e},
and w{i}t{h} fair{e} salt & trenchour{e} /
hym̅ also oft renewyng{e}. 476

[Sidenote: _How to carve Baked Meats._]

Bake metes.[93]

[Sidenote: Open hot ones at the top of the crust, cold ones in the
middle.]

Almaner{e} bakemet{es} þat byñ good and hoot,
Opeñ hem aboue þe brym of þe coffyñ[94] cote,
and all{e} þat byñ cold / & lusteth your{e} sou{er}eyñ to note,
alwey in þe mydway opeñ hem ye mote. 480

[Sidenote: Take Teal, &c., out of their pie, and mince their
wings,]

Of capoñ, chikeñ, or teele, in coffyñ bake,
Owt of þe pye furst þat ye hem take,
In a dische besyde / þat ye þe whyngus slake,
thynk[95] y-mynsed in to þe same
w{i}t{h} yo{ur} knyfe ye slake, 484

[Sidenote: stir the gravy in; your lord may eat it with a spoon.]

And ster{e} well{e} þe stuff þ{er}-in
w{i}t{h} þe poynt of yo{ur} knyfe;
Mynse ye thynne þe whyng{is}, be it in to veele or byffe;
w{i}t{h} a spone lightely to ete
yo{ur} sou{er}ayne may be leeff,
So w{i}t{h} suche diet as is holsom
he may length{e} his life. 488

[Sidenote: Cut Venison, &c., in the pasty. Custard: cut in squares
with a knife.]

++Venesou{n} bake, of boor or othur venur{e}, [Fol. 178.]
Kut it in þe pastey, & ley hit oñ his trenchur{e}.
Pygeoñ bake, þe legg{is} leid to your{e} lord sur{e},
Custard,[96] chekkid buche,[97]
squar{e} w{i}t{h} þe knyfe; þ{us} is þe cur{e} 492

[Headnote: HOW TO CARVE DOWCETES AND PAYNE PUFF.]

[Sidenote: Dowcets: pare away the sides; serve in a sawcer.]

Þañ þe sou{er}ayne, w{i}t{h} his spone
whañ he lusteth{e} to ete.
of dowcet{es},[98] par{e} awey the sid{es}
to þe botom̅, & þ{a}t ye lete,
In a sawcer{e} afor{e} your{e} sou{er}ayne
semely ye hit sett
whañ hym̅ liketh{e} to atast: looke ye not forgete. 496

[Sidenote: Payne-puff: pare the bottom, cut off the top. Fried
things are indigestible.]

Payne Puff,[99] par{e} þe botom nyȝe þe stuff, take hede,
Kut of þe toppe of a payne puff, do thus as y rede;

[Textnote: (? p{ar}neys)]

Also pety p{er}ueys[100] be fayr{e} and clene /
so god be your{e} spede.
off Fryed met{es}[101] be war{e}, for þey ar Fumose in dede. 500

Fried metes.

[Sidenote: Poached-egg (?) fritters are best. Tansey is good hot.
Don’t eat Leessez.]

++O Frutur{e} viant[102] / Frutur sawge,[102] byñ good /
bett{ur} is Frut{ur} powche;[102]
Appull{e} frutur{e}[103] / is good hoot /
but þe cold ye not towche.
Tansey[104] is good hoot / els cast it not in your{e} clowche.
all{e} man{er} of leesseȝ[105] / ye may forber{e} /
herber{e} in yow none sowche. 504

_Len-voy_

[Sidenote: Cooks are always inventing new dishes that tempt people
and endanger their lives:]

{ Cook{es} w{i}t{h} þeir{e} newe co{n}ceyt{es},
choppyng{e} / stampyng{e}, & gryndyng{e},
{ Many new curies / all{e} day
þey ar co{n}tryvyng{e} & Fyndyng{e}
{ þ{a}t p{ro}voketh{e} þe peple to p{er}ell{es} of passage /
þrouȝ peyne soor{e} pyndyng{e},
{ & þrouȝ nice excesse of suche receyt{es} /
of þe life to make a endyng{e}. 508

[Sidenote: Syrups Comedies, Jellies, that stop the bowels.]

{ Some w{i}t{h} Sireppis[106] / Sawces /
Sewes,[107] and soppes,[108]
{ Comedies / Cawdell{es}[109] cast in Cawdrons /
ponnes, or pottes,
{ leesses / Ielies[110] / Fruturs / fried mete þat stoppes
{ and distempereth{e} all{e} þe body, bothe bak,
bely, & roppes:[111] 512

[Sidenote: Some dishes are prepared with unclarified honey.
Cow-heels and Calves’ feet are sometimes mixed with unsugared
leches and Jellies.]