Chapter XX: Prologue: 1 1 (3)

¶ Wisdom woll{e} a m{er}shall{e}
man{er}abely þ{a}t he vndirstand
all{e} þe worshipfull{e} officers of the comunialte of þis land,
of Shires / Citees / borowes; like as þey ar ruland,
þey must be sett aft{ur} þeir{e} astate dewe
in degre as þey stand. 1132

[Sidenote: and that a Knight of blood and property is above a poor
Knight,]

¶ hit belongeth{e} to a m{er}shall{e} to haue a for{e} sight
of all{e} estatis of þis land in eu{er}y place pight,
For þestate of a knyght of blode, lyvelode, & myght, [Fol. 188.]
is not p{er}egall{e} to a symple & a poouere knyght. 1136

[Sidenote: the Mayor of London above the Mayor of Queenborough,]

¶ Also þe meyr{e} of londoñ, notable of dignyte,
and of queneborow[269] þe meir{e}, no þyng{e} like in degre,
at one messe þey owght in no wise to sitt ne be;
hit no þyng{e} besemeth{e} /
þ{er}for{e} to suche semble ye se / 1140

[Sidenote: the Abbot of Westminster above the poor Abbot of
Tintern,]

¶ Also þe abbote of Westmynster{e}, þe hiest of þ{is} lande /
The abbot of tynterne[270] þe poorest,
y vndirstande, [Fol. 188a.]
þey ar boþe abbot{es} of name, & not lyke of fame to fande;
ȝet Tynterne w{i}t{h} Westmynster
shall{e} nowþ{er} sitte ne stande. 1144

[Sidenote: the Prior of Canterbury above the Prior of Dudley,]

¶ Also þe Pryour{e} of Caunturbury,[271]
a cheff churche of dignyte,
And þe priour{e} of Dudley,[272] no þyng{e} so digne as he:--
ȝet may not þe priour{e} of dudley, symple of degre,
Sitte w{i}t{h} þe priour{e} of Caunturbury:
þ{er} is why, a dyu{er}site. 1148

[Sidenote: the Prior who is Prelate of a Cathedral Church above
any Abbot or Prior of his diocese,]

¶ And reme{m}br{e} eu{er}mor{e} / añ rule þ{er} is generall{e}:
A p{ri}our{e} þat is a p{re}late of any churche Cathedrall{e},
above abbot or priour{e}
w{i}t{h}-in the diocise sitte he shall{e},
In churche / in chapell{e} / in chambur / & in hall{e}. 1152

[Sidenote: a Doctor of 12 years’ standing above one of 9 (though
the latter be the richer),]

¶ Right so reu{er}end docturs, degre of xij. yer{e},
þem ye must assigne
to sitte aboue hym / þat co{m}mensed hath but .ix.
and þaugh{e} þe yonger may larger spend gold red & fyne,
ȝet shall{e} þe eldur sitte aboue /
wheþ{ur} he drynke or dyne. 1156

[Sidenote: the old Aldermen above the young ones, and 1. the
Master of a craft, 2. the ex-warden.]

¶ like wise the aldremen, ȝef þey be eny wher{e},
þe yonger{e} shall{e} sitte or stande
benethe þe elder riȝt þer{e};
and of eu{er}y crafft þe mastir aftur rule & maner{e},
and þeñ þe eldest of þem, þ{a}t wardeñ was þe for{e} yer{e}. 1160

[Sidenote: Before every feast, then, think what people are coming,
and settle what their order of precedence is to be.]

¶ Soche poyntes, w{i}t{h} many oþ{er},
belongeth{e} to a m{er}shall;
þerfor{e} whensoeu{er} your{e} sovereyñ a feest make shall,
demeene what estates shall{e} sitte in the hall,
þañ resoñ w{i}t{h} your{e} self lest your{e} lord yow call{e}; 1164

[Sidenote: If in doubt, ask your lord or the chief officer,]

¶ Thus may ye devise your{e} marshallyng{e},
like as y yow ler{e},
þe honour{e} and worshipp{e}
of your{e} sou{er}eyñ eu{er}y wher{e};
And ȝeff ye haue eny dowt / eu{er} looke þ{a}t ye enquer{e},
Resorte eu{er} to your{e} souereyn{e} /
or to þe cheff officer{e}; 1168

[Sidenote: and then you’ll do wrong to no one, but set all
according to their birth and dignity.]

¶ Thus shall{e} ye to any state / do wronge ne pr{e}iudice,
to sette eu{er}y p{er}sone accordyng{e} w{i}t{h}-owteñ mys,
as aftur þe birthe / livelode / dignite /
a-fore y taught yow this,
all{e} degrees of high{e} officer{e}, & worthy as he is. 1172

[Headnote: THE DUTIES OF THE USHER AND MARSHAL.]

[Sidenote: Now I have told you of Court Manners, how to manage in
Pantry, Buttery, Carving, and as Sewer, and Marshal,]

¶ ++Now good soñ, y hau{e} shewed the / & brought þe in vre,
to know þe Curtesie of court / & these þow may take in cur{e},
In pantry / botery / or celler{e} /
& in kervyng{e} a-for{e} a sovereyn{e} demewr{e},
A sewer / or a m{er}shall{e}: in þes science /
y suppose ye byñ sewr{e}, 1176

[Sidenote: as I learnt with a Royal Prince whose Usher and Marshal
I was. All other officers have to obey me.]

¶ Which in my dayes y lernyd with{e} a prynce full{e} royall{e},
with whom̅ vscher{e} in chambur was y,
& m{er}shall{e} also in hall{e},
vnto whom̅ all{e} þese officer{es} for{e}seid /
þey eu{er} ente{n}d{e} shall{e},
Evir to fulfill{e} my co{m}maundement wheñ þat y to þem call{e}: 1180

[Headnote: THE USHER AND MARSHAL IS THE CHIEF OFFICER.]

[Sidenote: Our office is the chief, whether the Cook likes it or
not.]

For we may allow & dissalow / our{e} office is þe cheeff
In celler{e} & spicery / & the Cooke,
be he looth{e} or leeff.[273]

[Sidenote: All these offices may be filled by one man, but a
Prince’s dignity requires each office to have its officer, and a
servant under him,]

¶ ++Thus þe diligences of dyu{er}se officeȝ
y haue shewed to þe allone, [Fol. 188b.]
the which science may be shewed & dooñ
by a syng{e}l{er}[274] p{er}sone; 1184
but þe dignyte of a prince req{ui}reth{e}
vche office must haue ooñ
to be rewler{e} in his rome / a s{er}uand hym̅ waytyng{e} oñ.

[Sidenote: (all knowing their duties perfectly) to wait on their
Lord and please his guests.]

¶ Moor{e}-ou{er} h{i}t requireth{e}
eu{er}ich of þem in office to haue p{er}fite science,
For dowt and drede doyng{e} his souereyñ displicence, 1188
hym to attende, and his gest{is} to plese
in place wher{e} þey ar p{re}sence,
that his souereyñ þrough{e} his s{er}uice
may make grete co{n}gaudence.

[Sidenote: Don’t fear to serve a prince; take good heed to your
duties, watch, and you need not fear.]

¶ For a prynce to s{er}ue, ne dowt he not /
and god be his spede!
Furþ{er} þañ his office / & þ{er}-to let hym̅ take good hede, 1192
and his warde wayte wisely //
& eu{er}mor{e} þ{er}-in haue drede;
Þus doyng{e} his dewte dewly, to dowte he shall{e} not nede.

[Sidenote: _Tasting_ is done only for those of royal blood, as a
Pope, King, Duke, and Earl: not below.]

¶ ++Tastyng{e} and credence[275]
longeth{e} to blode & birth royall{e},[276]
As pope / emp{er}our{e} / E{m}p{er}atrice, and Cardynall{e}, 1196
kyng{e} / queene / prynce / Archebischoppe in palle,
Duke / Erle and no mo / þat y to remembraunce / calle.

[Sidenote: Tasting is done for fear of poison; therefore keep your
room secure, and close your safe, for fear of tricks.]

¶ ++Credence is vsed, & tastyng{e}, for drede of poysenyng{e},
To all{e} officers y-sworne / and grete oth{e} by chargyng{e}; 1200
þ{er}for{e} vche mañ in office kepe his rome sewr{e}, closyng{e}
Cloos howse / chest / & gardevyañ[277],
for drede of congettyng{e}.

[Sidenote: A Prince’s Steward and Chamberlain have the oversight
of all offices and of tasting,]

¶ ++Steward and Chamburlayñ of a p{r}ince of royalte,
þey haue / knowleche of homages, s{er}uice, and fewte; 1204
so þey haue ou{er}sight of eu{er}y office /
aft{ur} þeir{e} degre,
by wrytyng{e} þe knowleche / & þe Credence to ou{er}se;

[Sidenote: and they must tell the Marshal, Sewer, and Carver how
to do it.]

¶ Therfore in makyng{e} of his credence, it is to drede, y sey,
To m{er}shall{e} / sew{e}r{e}[278] and kerver{e}
þey must allowte allwey, 1208
to teche hym̅ of his office / þe credence hym to prey:
þus shall{e} he not stond in makyng{e}
of his credence in no fray.

[Sidenote: I don’t propose to write more on this matter. I tried
this treatise myself,]

¶ ++Moor{e} of þis co{n}nyng{e} y Cast not me to contreve:
my tyme is not to tary, hit drawest fast to eve. 1212
þis tretyse þat y haue entitled, if it ye entende to p{re}ve,
y assayed me self in youth{e} w{i}t{h}-outeñ any greve.

[Sidenote: in my youth, and enjoyed these matters, but now age
compels me to leave the court; so try yourself.”]

while y was yong{e} y-nough{e} & lusty in dede,
y enioyed þese maters foreseid / & to lerne y toke good hede; 1216
but croked age hath{e} co{m}pelled me /
& leue court y must nede.
þerfor{e}, son{e}, assay thy self / & god shall{e} be þy spede.”

[Sidenote: “Blessing on you, Father, for this your teaching of me!
Now I shall dare to serve where before I was afraid.]

++“Now feir{e} falle yow, fadur / & blessid mote ye be,
For þis comenyng{e} / & þe co{n}nyng{e} /
þat y[e] haue her{e} shewed me! 1220
now dar y do s{er}uice diligent / to dyu{er}s of dignyte,
wher{e} for scantnes of conny{n}g{e} y durst no mañ y-se.

[Sidenote: I will try, and shall learn by practice. May God reward
you for teaching me!”]

So p{er}fitely seth{e} y hit p{er}ceue /
my parte y woll{e} p{re}ue and assay; / [Fol. 189.]
boþe by practike and ex{er}cise / yet som good lerne y may: 1224
and for your{e} gentill{e} lernyng{e} / y am bound eu{er} to pray
that our{e} lorde rewarde you in blis that lasteth aye.”

[Headnote: IOHN RUSSELLS REQUEST TO THE READER.]

[Sidenote: “Good son, and all readers of this _Boke of Nurture_,
pray for the soul of me, John Russell, (servant of Humphrey, Duke
of Gloucester;)]

++“Now good soñ, thy self w{i}t{h} other
þ{a}t shall{e} þe succede,
which{e} þus boke of nurtur{e} shall{e} note /
lerne, & ou{er} rede,
pray for the sowle of Iohñ Russell{e}, þat god do hym mede,
Som tyme s{er}uaunde w{i}t{h} duke vmfrey,
duc[A] of Glowcet{ur} in dede.

[Text note: The _duc_ has a red stroke through it, probably to
cut it out.]

[Sidenote: also for the Duke, my wife, father, and mother, that we
may all go to bliss when we die.”]

For þat prynce pereles prayeth{e} / & for suche other mo,
þe sowle of my wife / my fadur and modir also, 1232
vn-to Mary modyr and mayd / she fende us from owr{e} foe,
and bryng{e} vs all{e} to blis wheñ we shall{e} hens goo.
+AMEN+.”

[Sidenote: Little book, commend me to all learners, and to the
experienced, whom I pray to correct its faults.]

Go forth{e} lytell{e} boke, and lowly þow me co{m}mende
vnto all{e} yong{e} gentilmeñ / þ{a}t lust to lerne or entende, 1236
and specially to þem þat han exsperience,
p{ra}yng{e} þe[m] to amend{e}
and correcte þat is amysse, þer{e} as y fawte or offende.

[Sidenote: Any such, put to my copying, which I have done as I
best could.]

¶ And if so þat any be founde / as þrouȝ myñ necligence,
Cast þe cawse oñ my copy / rude / & bar{e} of eloquence, 1240
which{e} to drawe out [I] haue do my besy diligence,
redily to reforme hit / by resoñ and bettur sentence.

[Sidenote: The transcriber is not to blame; he copied what was
before him, and neither of us wrote it,]

¶ As for ryme or resoñ, þe for{e}wryter was not to blame,
For as he founde hit aforne hym̅, so wrote he þe same, 1244
and þaugh{e} he or y in our{e} mater{e} digres or degrade,
blame neithur of vs / For we neuyr{e} hit made;

[Sidenote: I only corrected the rhyme. God! grant us grace to rule
in Heaven with Thine elect!]

¶ Symple as y had insight / somwhat þe ryme y correcte;
blame y cowde no mañ / y haue no p{er}sone suspecte. 1248
Now, good god, graunt vs grace /
our{e} sowles neu{er} to Infecte!
þañ may we regne in þi regiou{n} /
et{er}nally w{i}t{h} thyne electe.

[Some word or words in large black letter have been cut off at the bottom of the page.]

[Footnote 1: do, get on.]

[Footnote 2: ? þat = nought can.]

[Footnote 3: The Lawnd in woodes. _Saltus nemorum._ Baret, 1580.
_Saltus_, a launde. Glossary in _Rel. Ant._, v. 1, p. 7, col. 1.
_Saltus_, a forest-pasture, woodland-pasture, woodland; a forest.]

[Footnote 4: at will. A.S. _wilsum_, free willed.]

[Footnote 5: A.S. _hirne_, corner. Dan. _hiörne_.]

[Footnote 6: Halke or hyrne. _Angulus_, _latibulum_; A.S. hylca,
_sinus_ Promptorium Parvulorum and note.]

[Footnote 7: AS. _fregnan_, to ask; Goth., _fraihnan_; Germ.,
_fragen._]

[Footnote 8: AS. _lis_ remissio, lenitas; Dan. _lise_, Sw. _lisa_,
relief.]

[Footnote 9: _for_ me to]

[Footnote 10: In Sir John Fastolfe’s _Bottre_, 1455, are “ij.
kerving knyves, iij. kneyves in a schethe, the haftys of every
(ivory) withe naylys gilt ... j. trencher-knyfe.” _Domestic
Arch._, v. 3, p. 157-8. _Hec mensacula_, a dressyng-knyfe, p. 256;
trencher-knyves, _mensaculos_. Jn. de Garlande, Wright’s Vocab.
p. 123.]

[Footnote 11: An Augre, or wimble, wherewith holes are bored.
Terebra & terebrum. _Vng tarriere._ Baret’s Alvearie, 1580.]

[Footnote 12: A Cannell or gutter. _Canalis._ Baret. _Tuyau_,
a pipe, quill, cane, reed, canell. Cotgrave. _Canelle_, the faucet
[l. 68] or quill of a wine vessel; also, the cocke, or spout of a
conduit. Cot.]

[Footnote 13: A Faucet, or tappe, a flute, a whistle, a pipe as
well to conueigh water, as an instrument of Musicke. _Fistula_ ...
_Tábulus._ Baret.]

[Footnote 14: _Tampon_, a bung or stopple. Cot. Tampyon for a
gon--_tampon._ Palsg.]

[Footnote 15: The projecting rim of a cask. Queen Elizabeth’s
‘yeoman drawer hath for his fees, all the lees of wine within
fowre fingers of the _chine_, &c.’ _H. Ord._ p. 295, (referred to
by Halliwell).]

[Footnote 16. _Ashore_, aslant, see note to l. 299.]

[_Labeled in text as “l. 71” and printed between notes 13, 14.
The “note to l. 299” is Footnote 58._]

[Footnote 17: ? This may be _butter-cheese_, milk- or
cream-cheese, as contrasted with the ‘hard chese’ l. 84-5; but
butter is treated of separately, l. 89.]

[Footnote 18: Fruit preserves of some kind; not the stew of
chickens, herbs, honey, ginger, &c., for which a recipe is given
on p. 18 of _Liber Cure Cocorum._ Cotgrave has _Composte_: f.
A condiment or composition; a wet sucket (wherein sweet wine was
vsed in stead of sugar), also, a pickled or winter Sallet of
hearbes, fruits, or flowers, condited in vinegar, salt, sugar, or
sweet wine, and so keeping all the yeare long; any hearbes, fruit,
or flowers in pickle; also pickle it selfe. Fr. _compote_, stewed
fruit. The Recipe for _Compost_ in the Forme of Cury, Recipe 100
(C), p. 49-50, is “Take rote of p{er}sel. pasternak of raseñs.
scrape hem and waische he{m} clene. take rap{is} & caboch{is}
ypared and icorne. take an erthen pa{n}ne w{i}t{h} clene wat{er},
& set it on the fire. cast all þise þ{er}inne. whan þey buth
boiled, cast þ{er}to peer{is}, & p{ar}boile hem wel. take þise
thyng{is} up, & lat it kele on a fair cloth, do þ{er}to salt whan
it is colde in a vessel; take vineg{ur}, & powdo{ur}, & safrou{n},
& do þ{er}to, & lat alle þise þing{is} lye þ{er}in al nyȝt oþ{er}
al day, take wyne greke and hony clarified togidur, lumbarde
mustard, & raisou{n}s corance al hool. & grynde powdo{ur} of
canel, powdo{ur} douce, & aneys hole. & fenell seed. take alle
þise þing{is}, & cast togyd{ur} i{n} a pot of erthe. and take
þ{er}of whan þ{o}u wilt, & s{er}ue forth.”]

[Footnote 19: ? not A.S. _wínberie_, a wine-berry, a grape, but
our _Whinberry_. But ‘Wineberries, currants’, Craven Gloss.; Sw.
_vin-bär_, a currant. On _hard cheese_, see note to l. 86.]

[Footnote 20: _Blandureau_, m. The white apple, called (in some
part of England) a Blaundrell. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 21: See note to l. 75.]

[Footnote 22: _Pouldre blanche_. A powder compounded of Ginger,
Cinnamon, and Nutmegs; much in use among Cookes. Cotgrave. Is
there any authority for the statement in _Domestic Architecture_,
v. 1, p. 132; that sugar ‘was sometimes called _blanch powdre_’?
P.S.--Probably the recollection of what Pegge says in the Preface
to the _Forme of Cury_, “There is mention of _blanch-powder or
white sugar_,” 132 [p. 63]. They, however, were not the same, for
see No. 193, p. xxvi-xxvii. On turning to the Recipe 132, of
“Peer{is} in confyt,” p. 62-3, we find “whan þei [the pears] buth
ysode, take he{m} up, make a syrup of wyne greke. oþ{er} v{er}nage
w{i}t{h} blau{n}che powd{ur}, oþ{er} white sug{ur}, and powdo{ur}
gyng{ur}, & do the per{is} þ{er}in.” It is needless to say that if
a modern recipe said take “sugar or honey,” sugar could not be
said “to be sometimes called” honey. See Dawson Turner in Howard
Household Books.]

[Footnote 23: _Ioncade_: f. A certaine spoone-meat made of creame,
Rose-water and Sugar. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 24: See the recipe to make it, lines 121-76; and in
_Forme of Cury_, p. 161.]

[Footnote 25: Muffett held a very different opinion. ‘Old and dry
cheese hurteth dangerously: for it stayeth siege [stools],
stoppeth the Liver, engendereth choler, melancholy, and the stone,
lieth long in the stomack undigested, procureth thirst, maketh a
stinking breath and a scurvy skin: Whereupon Galen and Isaac have
well noted, That as we may feed liberally of ruin cheese, and more
liberally of fresh Cheese, so we are not to taste any further of
old and hard Cheese, then to close up the mouth of our stomacks
after meat,’ p. 131.]

[Footnote 26: In youth and old age. Muffett says, p. 129-30,
‘according to the old Proverb, _Butter is Gold in the morning,
Silver at noon, and lead at night._ It is also best for children
whilst they are growing, and for old men when they are declining;
but very unwholesom betwixt those two ages, because through the
heat of young stomacks, it is forthwith converted into choler
[bile]. The Dutchmen have a by-Verse amongst them to this effect,

_Eat Butter first, and eat it last,_
_And live till a hundred years be past’_]

[Footnote 27: See note to l. 82.]

[Footnote 28: See ‘Rompney of Modoñ,’ among the sweet wines,
l. 119.]

[Footnote 29: _Eschec & mat._ Checke-mate at Chests; and
(metaphorically) a remedilesse disaster, miserie, or misfortune.
Cot.]

[Footnote 30: _? ascia_, a dyse, Vocab. in _Reliq. Ant._ v. 1,
p. 8, col. 1; _ascia_, 1. an axe; (2. a mattock, a hoe; 3. an
instrument for mixing mortar). _Diessel_, ofte _Diechsel_,
A Carpenter-axe, or a Chip-axe. Hexham.]

[Footnote 31: ? The name of the lees of some red wine. Phillips
has _Rosa Solis_, a kind of Herb; also a pleasant Liquor made of
Brandy, Sugar, Cinnamon, and other Ingredients agreeable to the
Taste, and comfortable to the Heart. (So called, as being at first
prepared wholly of the juice of the plant ros-solis (sun-dew) or
drosera. Dict. of Arts and Sciences, 1767.)]

[Footnote 32: See note, l. 31.]

[Footnote 33: See note on these wines at the end of the poem.]

[Footnote 34: In the Recipe for Jussel of Flessh (Household Ord.,
p. 462), one way of preparing the dish is ‘for a Lorde,’ another
way ‘for Commons.’ Other like passages also occur.]

[Footnote 35: Graines. _Cardamomum, Graine de paradis._ Baret.
‘Graines of Paradise; or, the spice which we call, Graines.’
Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 36: _Cuite_, a seething, baking. Cot.]

[Footnote 37: _Spices._ Of those for the Percy Household, 1512,
the yearly cost was £25 19s. 7d., for _Piper_, Rasyns of Corens,
Prones, _Gynger_, Mace, Clovvez, Sugour, _Cinamom_, Allmonds,
Daytts, Nuttmuggs, _Granes_, _Tornesole_, Saunders, _Powder of
Annes_, Rice, Coumfetts, _Galyngga_, _Longe Piper_, _Blaynshe
Powder_, and Safferon, p. 19, 20. Household Book, ed. Bp. Percy.]

[Footnote 38: Canel, spyce. _Cinamomum, amomum._ Promt. Parv.
_Canelle_, our moderne Cannell or Cinnamom. Cot. (Named from its
tube stalk?)]

[Footnote 39: _Tourne-soleil._ Tornesole, Heliotropium. Cotgrave.
Take bleue _turnesole_, and dip hit in wyne, that the wyne may
catch the colour thereof, and colour the potage therwith. _H.
Ord._, p. 465.... and take red _turnesole_ steped wel in wyne, and
colour the potage with that wine, _ibid._ ‘And then with a little
_Turnsole_ make it of a high murrey [mulberry] colour.’ Markham’s
Houswife, p. 70.]

[Footnote 40: Manche: f. A sleeue; also a long narrow bag (such as
Hypocras is made in). Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 41: boulting or straining cloth. ‘ij bulteclothes.’
Status Domus de Fynchall, A.D. 1360. _Dom. Arch._ v. 1, p. 136,
note _f_.]

[Footnote 42: Stale, dead. Pallyd, as drynke (palled, as ale).
_Emortuus._ P. Parv. See extract from A. Borde in notes at end.]

[Footnote 43: See _Dict. de L’Academie_, p. 422, col. 2, ed. 1835.
‘_Couche_ se dit aussi de Toute substance qui est étendue,
appliquée sur une autre, de manière à la couvrir. _Revêtir un mur
d’une_ couche _de plâtre, de mortier, &c._’]

[Footnote 44: Fr. _repli_: m. A fould, plait, or _bought_.
Cotgrave. cf. _Bow_, bend.]

[Footnote 45: Fine cloth, originally made at Rennes, in Bretagne.]

[Footnote 46: A.S. _gerǣdian_, to make ready, arrange, prepare.]

[Footnote 47: See the mode of laying the Surnape in Henry VII.’s
time described in _H. Ord._, p. 119, at the end of this Poem.]

[Footnote 48: “A _Portpayne_ for the said Pantre, an elne longe
and a yerd brode.” The _Percy_, or Northumberland Household Book,
1512, (ed. 1827), p. 16, under _Lynnon Clothe_. ‘A _porte paine_,
to beare breade fro the Pantree to the table with, _lintheum
panarium_.’ Withals.]

[Footnote 49: A.S. _ætwítan_, twit; _oðwítan_, blame.]

[Footnote 50: ‘prowl, proll, to seek for prey, from Fr. _proie_ by
the addition of a formative _l_, as kneel from knee.’ Wedgwood.]

[Footnote 51: Louse is in English in 1530 ’Louse, a beest--_pov._
Palsgrave. And see the note, p. 19, _Book of Quinte Essence_.]

[Footnote 52: To look sullen (?). _Glowting_ round her rock, to
fish she falls. _Chapman_, in Todd’s Johnson. Horrour and
_glouting_ admiration. _Milton._ _Glouting_ with sullen spight.
_Garth._]

[Footnote 53: Snytyn a nese or a candyl. _Emungo, mungo._ Prompt.
Parv. _Emungo_, to make cleane the nose. _Emunctio_, snuffyng or
wypynge of the nose. Cooper. _Snuyt uw neus_, Blow your nose.
Sewel, 1740; but _snuyven, ofte snuffen_, To Snuffe out the Snot
or Filth out of ones Nose. Hexham, 1660. A learned friend, who in
his bachelor days investigated some of the curiosities of London
Life, informs me that the modern Cockney term is _sling_. In the
dress-circle of the Bower Saloon, Stangate, admission 3d., he saw
stuck up, four years ago, the notice, “_Gentlemen_ are requested
not to _sling_,” and being philologically disposed, he asked the
attendant the meaning of the word.]

[Footnote 54: askew. _Doyle_, squint. Gloucestershire. Halliwell.]

[Footnote 55: Codde, of mannys pryuyte (preuy membris). _Piga,
mentula._ Promptorium Parvulorum.]

[Footnote 56: Mowe or skorne, _Vangia vel valgia_. Catholicon, in
P. P.]

[Footnote 57: Ȝyxyñ _Singulcio_. Ȝyxynge _singultus_. P. P. To
yexe, sobbe, or haue the hicket. _Singultio._ Baret. To yexe or
sobbe, _Hicken_, To Hick, or to have the Hick-hock. Hexham.]

[Footnote 58: ? shorewise, as shores. ‘Schore, undur settynge of a
þynge þat wolde falle.’ P. Parv. Du. _Schooren_, To Under-prop.
_Aller eschays_, To shale, stradle, goe crooked, or wide betweene
the feet, or legs. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 59: Dutch _Schrobben_, To Rubb, to Scrape, to Scratch.
Hexham.]

[Footnote 60: Iettyn _verno_. P. Parv. Mr Way quotes from
Palsgrave, “I _iette_, I make a countenaunce with my legges, _ie
me iamboye_,” &c.; and from Cotgrave, “_Iamboyer_, to _iet_, or
wantonly to go in and out with the legs,” &c.]

[Footnote 61: grinding.]

[Footnote 62: gnastyn (gnachyn) _Fremo, strideo_. Catholicon.
Gnastyng of the tethe--_stridevr, grincement_. Palsg. Du.
_gnisteren_, To Gnash, or Creake with the teeth. Hexham.]

[Footnote 63: Short coats and tight trousers were a great offence
to old writers accustomed to long nightgown clothes. Compare
Chaucer’s complaint in the Canterbury Tales, The Parsones Tale,
_De Superbiâ_, p. 193, col. 2, ed. Wright. “Upon that other syde,
to speke of the horrible disordinat scantnes of clothing, as ben
these cuttid sloppis or anslets, that thurgh her schortnes ne
covereth not the schamful membre of man, to wickid entent. Alas!
som men of hem schewen the schap and the boce of the horrible
swollen membres, that semeth like to the maladies of hirnia, in
the wrapping of here hose, and eek the buttokes of hem, that faren
as it were the hinder part of a sche ape in the fulle of the
moone.” The continuation of the passage is very curious. “Youre
schort gownys thriftlesse” are also noted in the song in Harl. MS.
372. See Weste, _Booke of Demeanour_, l. 141, below.]

[Footnote 64: Fr. _tache_, spot, staine, blemish, reproach. C.]

[Footnote 65: sobriety, gravity.]

[Footnote 66: Edward IV. had ‘Bannerettes IIII, or Bacheler
Knights, to be kervers and cupberers in this courte.’ _H. Ord._,
p. 32.]

[Footnote 67: See the _Termes of a Keruer_ in Wynkyn de Worde’s
_Boke of Keruynge_ below.]

[Footnote 68: to embrew. _Ferrum tingere sanguine._ Baret.]

[Footnote 69: The table-knife, ‘Mensal knyfe, or borde knyfe,
_Mensalis_,’ P. Parv., was, I suppose, a lighter knife than the
trencher-knife used for cutting trenchers off very stale coarse
loaves.]

[Footnote 70: ? Fr. _pareil_, A match or fellow. C.]

[Footnote 71: A.S. _gramian_, to anger.]

[Footnote 72: Sowce mete, _Succidium_. P. Parv.]

[Footnote 73: ? Crop or crawe, or cropon of a beste (croupe or
cropon), _Clunis_. P. Parv. Crops are emptied before birds are
cooked.]

[Footnote 74: A.S. _beniman_, take away, deprive.]

[Footnote 75: Fr. _achever_, To atchieue; to end, finish. Cot.]

[Footnote 76: Hwyr, cappe (hure H.), _Tena_. A.S. _hufe_, a tiara,
ornament. Promptorium Parv.]

[Footnote 77: Chyne, of bestys bakke. _Spina._ P. Parv.]

[Footnote 78: slices, strips.]

[Footnote 79: ‘_De haute graisse_, Full, plumpe, goodlie, fat,
well-fed, in good liking.’ Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 80: Fr. _arracher_. To root vp ... pull away by
violence. Cotgrave. [[Compare, “and the Geaunte pulled and drough,
but he myght hym not _a-race_ from the sadell.” _Merlin_, Pt. II.
p. 346 (E. E. T. Soc. 1866).]] ]

[Footnote 81: The Bittern or Bittour, _Ardea Stellaris_.]

[Footnote 82: _Egrette_, as _Aigrette_; A foule that resembles a
Heron. _Aigrette_ (A foule verie like a Heron, but white);
a criell Heron, or dwarfe Heron. Cot. _Ardea alba_, A crielle or
dwarfe heron. Cooper.]

[Footnote 83: Snype, or snyte, byrde, _Ibex._ P. P. A snipe or
snite: a bird lesse than a woodcocke. _Gallinago minor_,
&c. Baret.]

[Footnote 84: A small Heron or kind of Heron; Shakspere’s editors’
_handsaw_. The spelling _heronshaw_ misled Cotgrave, &c.; he has
_Haironniere_. A herons neast, or ayrie; a _herne_-shaw or shaw of
wood, wherein herons breed. ‘An Hearne. _Ardea._ A hearnsew,
_Ardeola_.’ Baret, 1580. ‘Fr. _heronceau_, a young heron, gives E.
_heronshaw_,’ Wedgwood. I cannot find _heronceau_, only
_heronneau_. ‘A yong _herensew_ is lyghter of dygestyon than a
crane. A. Borde. _Regyment_, fol. F i, ed. 1567. ‘In actual
application a _heronshaw_, _hernshaw_ or _hernsew_, is simply a
Common Heron (Ardea Vulgaris) with no distinction as to age, &c.’
Atkinson.]

[Footnote 85: The Brewe is mentioned three times, and each time in
connection with the Curlew. I believe it to be the Whimbrel
(_Numenius Phæopus_) or Half Curlew. I have a recollection (or
what seems like it) of having seen the name with a French form
like Whimbreau. [Pennant’s British Zoology, ii. 347, gives _Le
petit Courly, ou le Courlieu_, as the French synonym of the
Whimbrel.] Morris (Orpen) says the numbers of the Whimbrel are
lessening from their being sought as food. Atkinson.]

[Footnote 86: “The singular structure of the windpipe and its
convolutions lodged between the two plates of bone forming the
sides of the keel of the sternum of this bird (the Crane) have
long been known. The trachea or windpipe, quitting the neck of the
bird, passes downwards and backwards between the branches of the
merry-thought towards the inferior edge of the keel, which is
hollowed out to receive it. Into this groove the trachea passes,
... and after making three turns passes again forwards and upwards
and ultimately backwards to be attached to the two lobes of the
lungs.” Yarrell, _Brit. Birds_ ii. 441. Atkinson.]

[Footnote 87: Way, manner. Plyte or state (plight, P.). _Status._
P. Parv.]

[Footnote 88: A sort of gristle, the tendon of the neck. Germ.
_flachse_, Brockett. And see Wheatley’s Dict. of Reduplicated
Words.]

[Footnote 89: The ‘canelle boon’ between the hind legs must be the
pelvis, or pelvic arch, or else the _ilium_ or haunch-bone: and in
cutting up the rabbit many good carvers customarily disjoint the
haunch-bones before helping any one to the rump. Atkinson.]

[Footnote 90: Rabet, yonge conye, _Cunicellus_. P. Parv. ‘The
Conie beareth her _Rabettes_ xxx dayes, and then kindeleth, and
then she must be bucked againe, for els she will eate vp hir
_Rabets_. 1575. Geo. Turbervile, The Booke of Venerie, p. 178, ch.
63.’ --H. H. Gibbs.]

[Footnote 91: slices, or rather strips.]

[Footnote 92: board-cloth, table-cloth.]

[Footnote 93: Part IV. of _Liber Cure Cocorum_, p. 38-42, is ‘of
bakun mete.’ On Dishes and Courses generally, see _Randle Holme_,
Bk. III. Chap. III. p. 77-86.]

[Footnote 94: rere a _cofyn_ of flowre so fre. _L. C. C._, p. 38,
l. 8. The crust of a raised pie.]

[Footnote 95: _for_ thin; _see line_ 486.]

[Footnote 96: ? A dish of batter somewhat like our Yorkshire
Pudding; not the _Crustade_ or pie of chickens, pigeons, and small
birds of the _Household Ordinances_, p. 442, and Crustate of
flesshe of _Liber Cure_, p. 40.]

[Footnote 97: ? _buche de bois._ A logge, backe stocke, or great
billet. Cot. I suppose the _buche_ to refer to the manner of
_checkering_ the custard, buche-wise, and not to be a dish.
Venison is ‘chekkid,’ l. 388-9. This rendering is confirmed by
_The Boke of Keruynge’s_ “Custarde, cheke them inch square” (in
Keruynge of Flesshe). Another possible rendering of _buche_ as a
dish of batter or the like, seems probable from the ‘Bouce Jane,
a dish in Ancient Cookery’ (Wright’s Prov^l. Dict^y.), but the
recipe for it in Household Ordinances, p. 431, shows that it was a
stew, which could not be checkered or squared. It consisted of
milk boiled with chopped herbs, half-roasted chickens or capons
cut into pieces, ‘pynes and raysynges of corance,’ all boiled
together. In _Household Ordinances_, p. 162-4, _Bouche_, or
_Bouche of court_, is used for allowance. The ‘Knights and others
of the King’s Councell,’ &c., had each ‘for their _Bouch_ in the
morning one chet loafe, one manchet, one gallon of ale; for
afternoone, one manchett, one gallon of ale; for after supper, one
manchett, &c.’]

[Footnote 98: See the recipe, end of this volume. In Sir John
Howard’s Household Books is an entry in 1467, ‘for viij boshelles
of flour for _dowsetes_ vj s. viij d.’ p. 396, ed. 1841. See note
5 to l. 699, below.]

[Footnote 99: The last recipe in _The Forme of Cury_, p. 89, is
one for Payn Puff, but as it refers to the preceding receipt, that
is given first here.

THE PETY P{ER}UAU{N}T.[*] XX IX.XV.[= 195]

Take male Marow. hole parade, and kerue it rawe; powd{our} of
Gyng{ur}, yolk{is} of Ayren{e}, dat{is} mynced, raisoñs of
corañce, salt a lytel, & loke þ{a}t þ{o}u make þy past with ȝolkes
of Ayren, & þat no wat{er} come þ{er}to; and fo{ur}me þy coffyn,
and make up þy past.

PAYN PUFF XX IX.XVI[= 196]

Eodem m{odo} fait payn puff, but make it more tendre þ^e past, and
loke þ^e past be rou{n}de of þ^e payn puf as a coffyn & a pye.

Randle Holme treats of Puffe, Puffs, and Pains, p. 84, col. 1, 2,
but does not mention _Payn Puff_. ‘Payn puffe, and pety-pettys,
and cuspis and doucettis,’ are mentioned among the last dishes of
a service on Flessh-Day (_H. Ord._, p. 450), but no recipe for
either is given in the book.]

[Footnote 99*: Glossed _Petypanel, a Marchpayne._ Leland,
Coll. vi. p. 6. Pegge.]

[Footnote 100: In lines 707, 748, the _pety perueys_ come between
the fish and pasties. I cannot identify them as fish. I suppose
they were pies, perhaps _The Pety Peruaunt_ of note 2 above; or
better still, the fish-pies, _Petipetes_ (or _pety-pettys_ of the
last note), which Randle Holme says ‘are Pies made of Carps and
Eels, first roasted, and then minced, and with Spices made up in
Pies.’]

[Footnote 101: De cibi elecc{i}one: (Sloane MS. 1986, fol. 59 b,
and elsewhere,) “Frixa nocent, elixa fouent, assata cohercent.”]

[Footnote 102: Meat, sage, & poached, fritters?]

[Footnote 103: Recipe in _L. Cure_, p. 39.]

[Footnote 104: There is a recipe ‘for a Tansy Cake’ in _Lib. C._,
p. 50. Cogan says of _Tansie_,-- “it auoideth fleume.... Also it
killeth worms, and purgeth the matter whereof they be engendred.
Wherefore it is much vsed among vs in England, about Easter, with
fried Egs, not without good cause, to purge away the fleume
engendred of fish in Lent season, whereof worms are soone bred in
them that be thereto disposed.” Tansey, says Bailey (_Dict.
Domesticum_) is recommended for the dissipating of wind in the
stomach and belly. He gives the recipe for ‘A Tansy’ made of
spinage, milk, cream, eggs, grated bread and nutmeg, heated till
it’s as thick as a hasty pudding, and then baked.]

[Footnote 105: Slices or strips of meat, &c., in sauce. See note
to l. 516, p. 34.]

[Footnote 106: Recipe ‘For Sirup,’ _Liber Cure_, p. 43, and ‘Syrip
for a Capon or Faysant,’ _H. Ord._ p. 440.]

[Footnote 107: potages, soups.]

[Footnote 108: Soppes in Fenell, Slitte Soppes, _H. Ord._ p. 445.]

[Footnote 109: Recipe for a Cawdel, _L. C. C._ p. 51.]

[Footnote 110: Recipes for Gele in Chekyns or of Hennes, and Gele
of Flesshe, _H. Ord._ p. 437.]

[Footnote 111: A.S. _roppas_, the bowels.]

[Footnote 112: “leeche” is a slice or strip, _H. Ord._ p. 472
(440), p. 456 (399)--’cut hit on _leches_ as hit were pescoddes,’
p. 439,--and also a stew or dish in which strips of pork, &c., are
cooked. See Leche Lumbarde, _H. Ord._ p. 438-9. Fr. _lesche_,
a long slice or shiue of bread, &c. Cot. _Hic lesca Ae_, scywe
(shive or slice), Wright’s Vocab. p. 198: _hec lesca_, a schyfe,
p. 241. See also Mr Way’s long note 1, Prompt. Parv., p. 292, and
the recipes for 64 different “Leche vyaundys” in MS. Harl. 279,
that he refers to.]

[Footnote 113: For Potages see Part I. of _Liber Cure Cocorum_,
p. 7-27.]

[Footnote 114: Recipe for Potage de Frumenty in _H. Ord._ p. 425,
and for Furmente in _Liber Cure_, p. 7, _H. Ord._ p. 462.]

[Footnote 115: Recipe ‘For gruel of fors,’ _Lib. C._ p. 47, and
_H. Ord._ p. 425.]

[Footnote 116: ? minced or powdered beef: Fr. _gravelle_, small
grauell or sand. Cot. ‘Powdred motoun,’ l. 533, means sprinkled,
salted.]

[Footnote 117: Recipes for ‘Mortrewes de Chare,’ _Lib. C._ p. 9;
‘of fysshe,’ p. 19; blanched, p. 13; and _H. Ord._ pp. 438, 454,
470.]

[Footnote 118: Butter of Almonde mylke, _Lib. C._ p. 15; _H. Ord._
p. 447.]

[Footnote 119: See the recipe, p. 145.]

[Footnote 120: Recipe for _Tartlotes_ in _Lib. C. C._ p. 41.]

[Footnote 121: Recipe for _Cabaches_ in _H. Ord._ p. 426, and
_caboches_, p. 454, both the vegetable. There is a fish _caboche_
in the 15th cent. Nominale in Wright’s Vocab. _Hic caput, A^e_,
Caboche, p. 189, col. 1, the bullhead, or miller’s thumb, called
in French _chabot_.]

[Footnote 122: See two recipes for Nombuls in _Liber Cure_, p. 10,
and for ‘Nombuls of a Dere,’ in _H. Ord._ p. 427.]

[Footnote 123: For Sauces (_Salsamenta_) see Part II. of _Liber
Cure_, p. 27-34.]

[Footnote 124: Recipe ‘for lumbardus Mustard’ in _Liber Cure_,
p. 30.]

[Footnote 125: Fleshe _poudred_ or salted. _Caro salsa, vel
salita_. Withals.]

[Footnote 126: The juice of unripe grapes. See _Maison Rustique_,
p. 620.]

[Footnote 127: Chaudwyn, l. 688 below. See a recipe for “Chaudern
for Swannes” in _Household Ordinances_, p. 441; and for “þandon
(MS. chaudon [*]) for wylde digges, swannus and piggus,” in _Liber
Cure_, p. 9, and “Sawce for swannus,” _Ibid._ p. 29. It was made
of chopped liver and entrails boiled with blood, bread, wine,
vinegar, pepper, cloves, and ginger.]

[Footnote 127*: Sloane 1986, p. 48, or fol. 27 b. It is not safe
to differ from Mr Morris, but on comparing the C of ‘Chaudoñ for
swann{is},’ col. 1, with that of ‘Caudell{e} of almonde,’ at the
top of the second col., I have no doubt that the letter is _C_.
So on fol. 31 b. the C of Chaudon is more like the C of Charlet
opposite than the T of Take under it. The _C_ of Caudel dalmo{n}
on fol. 34 b., and that of _Cultellis_, fol. 24, l. 5, are of
the same shape.]

[[Footnote 127a: _Pepper_. “The third thing is Pepper, a sauce for
vplandish folkes: for they mingle Pepper with Beanes and Peason.
Likewise of toasted bread with Ale or Wine, and with Pepper, they
make a blacke sauce, as if it were pap, that is called _pepper_,
and that they cast vpon theyr meat, flesh and fish.” _Reg. San.
Salerni_, p. 67.]]

[Footnote 128: See the recipe “To make Gynger Sause” in _H. Ord._
p. 441, and “For sawce gynger,” _L. C. C._ p. 52.]

[Footnote 129: No doubt the “sawce fyne þat men calles camelyne”
of _Liber Cure_, p. 30, ‘raysons of corouns,’ nuts, bread crusts,
cloves, ginger, cinnamon, powdered together and mixed with
vinegar. “Camelin, sauce cameline, A certaine daintie Italian
sauce.” Cot.]

[Footnote 130: A bird mentioned in _Archæologia_, xiii. 341. Hall.
See note, l. 422.]

[Footnote 131: Shovelars feed most commonly upon the Sea-coast
upon cockles and Shell-fish: being taken home, and dieted with new
garbage and good meat, they are nothing inferior to fatted Galls.
_Muffett_, p. 109. _Hic populus_, a schevelard (the _anas
clypeata_ of naturalists). Wright’s Voc., p. 253.]

[Footnote 132: See note 6 to line 539, above.]

[Footnote 133: Is not this line superfluous? After 135 stanzas of
4 lines each, we here come to one of 5 lines. I suspect l. 544 is
simply de trop. W. W. Skeat.]

[Footnote 134: For the fish in the Poem mentioned by Yarrell, and
for references to him, see the list at the end of this _Boke of
Nurture_.]

[Footnote 135: Recipes for “Grene Pesen” are in _H. Ord._
p. 426-7, p. 470; and Porre of Pesen, &c. p. 444.]

[Footnote 136: Topsell in his _Fourfooted Beasts_, ed. Rowland,
1658, p. 36, says of Beavers, “There hath been taken of them whose
tails have weighed four pound weight, and they are accounted a
very delicate dish, for being dressed they eat like Barbles: they
are used by the Lotharingians and Savoyans [says Bellonius] for
meat allowed to be eaten on fish-dayes, although the body that
beareth them be flesh and unclean for food. The manner of their
dressing is, first roasting, and afterward seething in an open
pot, that so the evill vapour may go away, and some in pottage
made with Saffron; other with Ginger, and many with Brine; it is
certain that the tail and forefeet taste very sweet, from whence
came the Proverbe, _That sweet is that fish, which is not fish at
all_.”]

[Footnote 137: See the recipe for “Furmente with Purpeys,” _H.
Ord._ p. 442.]

[Footnote 138: I suppose this to be Seal. If it is Eel, see
recipes for “Eles in Surre, Browet, Gravê, Brasyle,” in _H. Ord._
p. 467-8.]

[Footnote 139: Wynkyn de Worde has ‘a salte purpos or sele
turrentyne.’ If this is right, torrentille must apply to ȝele, and
be a species of seal: if not, it must be allied to the Trout or
Torrentyne, l. 835.]

[Footnote 140: Congur in Pyole, _H. Ord._ p. 469. ‘I must needs
agree with Diocles, who being asked, _whether were the better
fish, a Pike or a Conger_: That (said he) sodden, and this broild;
shewing us thereby, that all flaggy, slimy and moist fish (as
Eeles, Congers, Lampreys, Oisters, Cockles, Mustles, and
Scallopes) are best broild, rosted or bakt; but all other fish of
a firm substance and drier constitution is rather to be sodden.’
_Muffett_, p. 145.]

[Footnote 141: So MS., but _grone_ may mean _green_, see l. 851
and note to it. If not, ? for Fr. _gronan_, a gurnard. The Scotch
_crowner_ is a species of gurnard.]

[Footnote 142: Lynge, fysshe, _Colin_, Palsgrave; but _Colin_,
a Sea-cob, or Gull. Cotgrave. See Promptorium, p. 296.]

[Footnote 143: Fr. _Merlus ou Merluz_, A Mellwell, or Keeling,
a kind of small Cod whereof Stockfish is made. Cotgrave. And see
Prompt. Parv. p. 348, note 4. “Cod-fish is a great Sea-whiting,
called also a Keeling or Melwel.” Bennett’s Muffett on Food,
p. 148.]

[Footnote 144: Cogan says of stockfish, “Concerning which fish I
will say no more than Erasmus hath written in his _Colloquio_.
_There is a kind of fishe_, which _is called in English_
Stockfish: _it nourisheth no more than a stock_. Yet I haue eaten
of a pie made onely with Stockefishe, whiche hath been verie good,
but the goodnesse was not so much in the fishe as in the cookerie,
which may make that sauorie, which of it selfe is vnsavourie ...
it is sayd a good Cooke can make you good meate of a whetstone....
Therfore a good Cooke is a good iewell, and to be much made of.”
“Stockfish whilst it is unbeaten is called Buckhorne, because it
is so tough; when it is beaten upon the stock, it is termed
stockfish.” _Muffett._ Lord Percy (A.D. 1512) was to have “cxl
Stok fisch for the expensys of my house for an hole Yere, after
ij.d. obol. the pece,” p. 7, and “Dccccxlij Salt fisch ... after
iiij the pece,” besides 9 barrels of white and 10 cades of red
herring, 5 cades of Sprats (_sprootis_), 400 score salt salmon, 3
firkins of salt sturgeon and 5 cags of salt eels.]

[Footnote 145: Fr. _Merlan_, a Whiting, a Merling. Cot. ‘The best
Whitings are taken in Tweede, called _Merlings_, of like shape and
vertue with ours, but far bigger.’ _Muffett_, p. 174.]

[Footnote 146: MS. may be Cleynes. ? what place can it be;
Clayness, Claynose? Claybury is near Woodford in Essex.]

[Footnote 147: A recipe for Pykes in Brasey is in _H. Ord._
p. 451. The head of a Carp, the _tail_ of a Pike, and the Belly of
a Bream are most esteemed for their tenderness, shortness, and
well rellishing. _Muffett_, p. 177.]

[Footnote 148: Cut it in gobets or lumps a-slope. “Aslet or
_a-slowte_ (asloppe, a slope), _Oblique_.” P. Parv. But _slout_
may be _slot_, bolt of a door, and so _aslout_ = in long strips.]

[Footnote 149: Onions make a man stink and wink. Berthelson, 1754.
‘The Onion, though it be the Countrey mans meat, is better to vse
than to tast: for he that eateth euerie day tender Onions with
Honey to his breakfast, shall liue the more healthfull, so that
they be not too new.’ _Maison Rustique_, p. 178, ed. 1616.]

[Footnote 150: Recipes for this sauce are in _Liber C._ p. 30, and
_H. Ord._ p. 441: powdered crusts, galingale, ginger, and salt,
steeped in vinegar and strained. See note to l. 634 below.]

[Footnote 151: See “Plays in Cene,” that is, Ceue, chives, small
onions somewhat like eschalots. _H. Ord._ p. 452. See note 5,
l. 822. [Footnote 222 in this e-text.]]

[Footnote 152: Of all sea-fish Rochets and Gurnards are to be
preferred; for their flesh is firm, and their substance purest of
all other. Next unto them Plaise and Soles are to be numbered,
being eaten in time; for if either of them be once stale, there is
no flesh more carrion-like, nor more troublesome to the belly of
man. Mouffet, p. 164.]

[Footnote 153: Roches or Loches in Egurdouce, _H. Ord._ p. 469.]

[Footnote 154: _Or_ dacce.]

[Footnote 155: _Rivet_, roe of a fish. Halliwell. Dan. _ravn,
rogn_ (rowne of Pr. Parv.) under which Molbech refers to AS.
_hræfe_ (raven, Bosworth) as meaning roe or spawn. G. P. Marsh.
But see _refeccyon_, P. Parv.]

[Footnote 156: See “Soles in Cyne,” that is, Cyue, _H. Ord._
p. 452.]

[Footnote 157: Black Sea Bream, or Old Wife. _Cantharus griseus_.
Atkinson. “Abramides Marinæ. Breams of the Sea be a white and
solid substance, good juice, most easie digestion, and good
nourishment.” _Muffett_, p. 148.]

[Footnote 158: gobbets, pieces, see l. 638.]

[Footnote 159: Fr. _Dorée_: f. The Doree, or Saint Peters fish;
also (though not so properly) the Goldfish or Goldenie. Cotgrave.]

[Footnote 160: _Brett_, § xxi. He beareth Azure a _Birt_ (or
_Burt_ or _Berte_) proper by the name of _Brit_.... It is by the
Germans termed a _Brett-fish_ or _Brett-cock_. Randle Holme.]

[Footnote 161: Rec. for Congur in Sause, _H. Ord._ p. 401; in
Pyole, p. 469.]

[Footnote 162: This must be Randle Holme’s “_Dog fish_ or _Sea Dog
Fish_.” It is by the Dutch termed a _Flackhund_, and a
_Hundfisch_: the Skin is hard and redish, beset with hard and
sharp scales; sharp and rough and black, the Belly is more white
and softer. Bk II. Ch. XIV. No. lv, p. 343-4. For names of Fish
the whole chapter should be consulted, p. 321-345.]

[Footnote 163: ‘His flesh is stopping, slimy, viscous, & very
unwholesome; and (as Alexander Benedictus writeth) of a most
unclean and damnable nourishment ... they engender palsies, stop
the lungs, putrifie in the stomach, and bring a man that much eats
them to infinite diseases ... they are worst being fried, _best
being kept in gelly_, made strong of wine and spices.’ _Muffett_,
p. 189.]

[Footnote 164: Recipes for Tenches in grave, _L. C. C._ p. 25; in
Cylk (wine, &c.), _H. Ord._ p. 470; in Bresyle (boiled with
spices, &c.), p. 468.]

[Footnote 165: Lamprons in Galentyn, _H. Ord._ p. 449. “Lampreys
and Lamprons differ in bigness only and in goodness; they are both
a very sweet and nourishing meat.... The little ones called
Lamprons are best broild, but the great ones called Lampreys are
best baked.” _Muffett_, p. 181-3. See l. 630-40 of this poem.]

[Footnote 166: Wraw, froward, ongoodly. _Perversus ...
exasperans._ Pr. Parv.]

[Footnote 167: for _whan_, when.]

[Footnote 168: A kind of vinegar; A.S. _eisile_, vinegar; given to
Christ on the Cross.]

[Footnote 169: _Escrevisse:_ f. A Creuice, or Crayfish [see
l. 618]; (By some Authors, but not so properly, the Crab-fish is
also tearmed so.) _Escrevisse de mer._ A Lobster; or, (more
properly) a Sea-Creuice. Cotgrave. A _Crevice_, or a _Crefish_, or
as some write it, a _Crevis Fish_, are in all respects the same in
form, and are a Species of the Lobster, but of a lesser size, and
the head is set more into the body of the _Crevice_ than in the
_Lobster_. Some call this a Ganwell. R. Holme, p. 338, col. 1,
§ xxx.]

[Footnote 170: No doubt the intestinal tract, running along the
middle of the body and tail. Dr Günther. Of Crevisses and Shrimps,
Muffett says, p. 177, they “give also a kind of exercise for such
as be weak: for head and brest must first be divided from their
bodies; then each of them must be dis scaled, and clean picked
with much pidling; then the long gut lying along the back of the
Crevisse is to be voided.”]

[Footnote 171: slice by slice.]

[Footnote 172: The fresh-water crayfish is beautiful eating, Dr
Günther says.]

[Footnote 173: Iolle of a fysshe, _teste_. Palsgrave. Ioll, as of
salmon, &c., _caput_. Gouldm. in Promptorium, p. 264.]

[Footnote 174: For to make a potage of welkes, _Liber Cure_,
p. 17. “Perwinkles or Whelks, are nothing but sea-snails, feeding
upon the finest mud of the shore and the best weeds.” _Muffett_,
p. 164.]

[Footnote 175: _Pintle_ generally means the penis; but Dr Günther
says the whelk has no visible organs of generation, though it has
a projecting tube by which it takes in water, and the function of
this might have been misunderstood. Dr G. could suggest nothing
for _almond_, but on looking at the drawing of the male Whelk
(_Buccinum undatum_) creeping, in the Penny Cyclopædia, v. 9,
p. 454, col. 2 (art. Entomostomata), it is quite clear that the
_almond_ must mean the animal’s horny, oval _operculum_ on its
hinder part. ‘Most spiral shells have an _operculum_, or lid, with
which to close the aperture when they withdraw for shelter. It is
developed on a particular lobe at the posterior part of the foot,
and consists of horny layers sometimes hardened with shelly
matter.’ _Woodward’s Mollusca_, p. 47.]

[Footnote 176: That part of the integument of mollusca which
contains the viscera and secretes the shell, is termed the
_mantle_. Woodward.]

[Footnote 177: Recipe “For lamprays baken,” in _Liber Cure_,
p. 38.]

[Footnote 178: A sauce made of crumbs, galingale, ginger, salt,
and vinegar. See the Recipe in _Liber Cure_, p. 30.]

[Footnote 179: See the duties and allowances of “A Sewar for the
Kynge,” Edw. IV., in _Household Ordinances_, pp. 36-7; Henry VII.,
p. 118. King Edmund risked his life for his assewer, p. 36.]

[Footnote 180: The word Sewer in the MS. is written small, the
flourishes of the big initial O having taken up so much room. The
name of the office of _sewer_ is derived from the Old French
_esculier_, or the _scutellarius_, i.e. the person who had to
arrange the dishes, in the same way as the _scutellery_ (scullery)
was by rights the place where the dishes were kept. _Domestic
Architecture_, v. 3, p. 80 _n._]

[Footnote 181: See the duties and allowances of “A Surveyour for
the Kyng” (Edw. IV.) in _Household Ord._ p. 37. Among other things
he is to see ‘that no thing be purloyned,’ (cf. line 680 below),
and the fourty Squyers of Household who help serve the King’s
table from ‘the surveying bourde’ are to see that ‘of every messe
that cummyth from the dressing bourde ... thereof be nothing
withdrawe by the squires.’ _ib._ p. 45.]

[Footnote 182: Squyers of Houshold xl ... xx squires attendaunt
uppon the Kings (Edw. IV.) person in ryding ... and to help serve
his table from the surveying bourde. _H. Ord._ p. 45. Sergeauntes
of Armes IIII., whereof ii alway to be attending uppon the Kings
person and chambre.... In like wise at the conveyaunce of his
meate at every course from the surveying bourde, p. 47.]

[Footnote 183: Compare the less gorgeous feeds specified on pp.
54-5 of _Liber Cure_, and pp. 449-50 of _Household Ordinances_.
Also with this and the following ‘Dinere of Fische’ should be
compared “the Diett for the King’s Majesty and the Queen’s Grace”
on a Flesh Day and a Fish Day, A.D. 1526, contained in _Household
Ordinances_, p. 174-6. Though Harry the Eighth was king, he was
allowed only two courses on each day, as against the Duke of
Gloucester’s three given here. The daily cost for King and Queen
was £4. 3s. 4d.; yearly, £1520. 13s. 4d. See also in Markham’s
Houswife, pp. 98-101, the ordering of ‘extraordinary great Feasts
of Princes’ as well as those ‘for much more humble men.’]

[Footnote 184: See Recipes for Bor in Counfett, Boor in Brasey,
Bore in Egurdouce, in _H. Ord._ p. 435.]

[Footnote 185: _Chair de mouton manger de glouton:_ Pro. Flesh of
a Mutton is food for a glutton; (or was held so in old times, when
Beefe and Bacon were your onely dainties.) Cot.]

[Footnote 186: The rule for the succession of dishes is stated in
_Liber Cure_, p. 55, as whole-footed birds first, and of these the
greatest, as swan, goose, and drake, to precede. Afterwards come
baked meats and other dainties.]

[Footnote 187: See note to l. 535 above.]

[Footnote 188: See the Recipe for Leche Lumbard in _Household
Ordinances_, p. 438. Pork, eggs, pepper, cloves, currants, dates,
sugar, powdered together, boiled in a bladder, cut into strips,
and served with hot rich sauce.]

[Footnote 189: Meat fritter ?, mentioned in l. 501.]

[Footnote 190: See “Blaumanger to Potage” p. 430 of _Household
Ordinances_; Blawmangere, p. 455; Blonc Manger, _L. C. C._ p. 9,
and Blanc Maungere of fysshe, p. 19.]

[Footnote 191: “Gele in Chekyns or of Hennes,” and “Gelle of
Flesshe,” _H. Ord._ p. 437.]

[Footnote 192: See the recipe “At a Feeste Roiall, Pecockes shall
be dight on this Manere,” _H. Ord._ p. 439; but there he is to be
served “forthe with the last cours.” The _hackle_ refers,
I suppose, to his being sown in his skin when cold after
roasting.]

[Footnote 193: The fat of _Rabet-suckers_, and little Birds, and
small Chickens, is not discommendable, because it is soon and
lightly overcome of an indifferent stomack. _Muffett_, p. 110.]

[Footnote 194: Recipe at end of this volume. Dowcet mete, or swete
cake mete (bake mete, P.) _Dulceum, ductileus._ P. Parv. Dousette,
a lytell flawne, _dariolle_. Palsgrave. Fr. _flannet_; m. A doucet
or little custard. Cot. See note 1 to l. 494 above.]

[Footnote 195: May be _Iely_, amber jelly, instead of a beautiful
amber leche.]

[Footnote 196: See the note to line 499.]

[Footnote 197: Compare “For a servise on fysshe day,” _Liber
Cure_, p. 54, and _Household Ordinances_, p. 449.]

[Footnote 198: _For_ of. See ‘Sewes on Fische Dayes,’ l. 821.]

[Footnote 199: ? for _bellies_: see ‘the baly of þe fresch
samoun,’ l. 823 in Sewes on Fische Dayes; or it may be for the
_sounds_ or breathing apparatus.]

[Footnote 200: Pykes in Brasey, _H. Ord._ p. 451.]

[Footnote 201: Purpesses, Tursons, or sea-hogs, are of the nature
of swine, never good till they be fat ... it is an unsavoury meat
... yet many Ladies and Gentlemen love it exceedingly, bak’d like
venison. _Mouffet_, p. 165.]

[Footnote 202: ? due-ing, that is, service; not moistening.]