Chapter XVI

PASS OF DUMBELEK. HIGH RANGES OF TAURUS. EFRENK.

Change in the Climate since our Former Visit—Unable to
Obtain Baggage Horses—High Charges of the Khanji—Greed and
Overreaching Spirit of Most Oriental Christians—Their General
Character when they become Rich—Village of Ibrala—A Cool
Reception—The Evening Prayer—Rocky Plateau above Ibrala to
the Base of the High Mountains—No Water for Seven Hours’
March—Fountain, but no Shade—Characteristic Reply of an
Old Osmanli Shepherd—Camp of Mustafa Tekerlèk—Appearance
and Behaviour of the Yourouk Chief—An Alvanlö Villager in
Hiding—Yourouks Necessary in these Mountains for the Safety of
Travellers—Mustafa examines our Souriji—A Starvation Supper—The
Tea Plant grows Wild here—Our Revolvers—Obtrusive Behaviour
of the Alvanlö Man—Mustafa’s Heart fails Him—Turkish Form of
Taking Leave—We Learn more about Mustafa Tekerlèk—Descent into
Valley of Efrenk—Our Lodging for the Night—Humidity of the
Valley—A Case of Sunstroke 431-447