Chapter V

THE KURSOULOU AND KAYISH RIVERS. BAZAAR. BOUDROUM.

Bridge over the Pyramus—Conglomerate—Landslips—An
Armenian Hamlet—Confluence of the Rivers Kursoulou and
Jeihaàn—Bridge over the Kursoulou—The Pass of Khadj
Bel—Dourbin Dagh—Grand Volcanic Ridges of the Giaour
Dagh—Bivouac in the Forest—Endurance of the Cappadocian
Horses—Little Cultivation—Scanty Population—Scarcity of
Birds and Animals—Great Heat of Mountain Valleys—Ajemli—An
Armenian United Family—Scorpion—Centipede—Venomous Snakes
in Cilicia—Difficulty of obtaining precise Information
from Orientals—Greek Inscription—The Guide to Boudroum—The
Kayish Sou, and Broken Ancient Bridge—Koum Kalaat—Dangerous
Ford—Churning—Forest Hills—Absence of Animal Life—Exhilarating
Air—The Village of Kars or Bazaar—Site of a Considerable
Ancient City—Antiquities—An angry Imām—Inscriptions—Exemption
from Military Service Tax—Governor or other Official gives a
Tone to the Administration—Mount Hemita—The only Relics of
former Muslim Villages—Fort of Boudroum—Temple—Tombs—Site
of the Ancient City—Colonnade—Churches—Second
Colonnade—Theatre—Gymnasium—Inscription—Danger of lingering
in such Solitary Spots near the Frontier—Summer Camp of the
Villagers of Hemita 104-135