Chapter II

MERSINA. POMPEIOPOLIS. ASAAB-EL-KEF. TCHANDEER.

Heat and Unhealthiness of Mersina—Summer Resorts of
the People—Geuzna—Ichma—Causes of the Misery of the
Turkish Population—The Government does nothing, and
will allow nothing to be done—Corruption of Provincial
Governors—Ingratitude of Turks—Good Qualities, especially
of the Lower Classes—A Comment on the Charge of
Ingratitude brought against the Turks—Pompeiopolis—City
Wall—Port now a Corn-field—Moles—Dimensions
of Port—Colonnade—Inscriptions—Theatre—Utter
Destruction of Town—Colonnade hitherto spared—Greek
Schools—Hospital—Church—Funereal Monument—Purchase of
Horses—Only one Road in Cilicia—Its History—Khalil, Taki
Ed-Deen, and Mahmoud Pashas—Soil of Plain like that of the
Delta of Egypt—Geuzlük Kalaat a Necropolis—Way in which a
Finder of Antiquities is rewarded here—Filthiness of Tarsus—Its
Unhealthiness—The Christians advancing—Bazaars—Excellent Iron
and Leather Work—Gardens round Tarsus—Nightingales—Armenian
Church—Antique Treasure—Lower Level of Old City—Gates of
Town—Walls—Tomb of Sardanapalus—Form and Dimensions—Falls of
the Cydnus—Water of the Cydnus Unwholesome—Changes in Course of
Stream—S. Paul’s Well—Excursion to Asaab-el-Kef—Sheikh of the
Mosque and his Family—Imperial Benefactress—An Ancient Armenian
Fortress—Church and Hermitage—Oppression endured by all
Classes, Muslim and Rayah alike—Rock of Tchandeer—Translation
of Armenian Inscriptions 16-47