Chapter VII: Life in Adana

Always try to be a Debtor in the Levant, never a Creditor—My
Friend’s Sickness—Danger of neglecting the Endemic Diseases
of these Lands—Great amount of Malaria in the Plain—Epidemic
of Typhus in 1873-4—Of Small-pox in 1874—Religious
Sects in Adana—Sleeping Cribs in Summer—Midnight Call
to Prayer—Market Day in Adana—Labourers—Wages—Scarcity
of the Precious Metals—Great Mortality amongst the
Labourers—Their Peaceable Behaviour—A Model to Nations of
higher pretensions to Civilization—Executions in Adana—A
Scene of Horror at an Execution—Prisons in Adana—Increasing
Sickness of my Friend—The End—River-side Café—Beauty of
Adana—Noble Mountain Scenery—Ajemi Kahve—True Politeness of
the Company—Exquisite Atmospheric Effects—Free Trade not
the Rule here—Supply and Price of Food—No Adulteration in
Turkey—Mechanics’ Wages—Produce and Trade of Cilicia—Scarcity
in 1873—Barley—Transport—Cotton of Cilicia—Wool—Sesame
Seed—Imports—Rate of Interest—Fellahhin Borrow—but Repayment
uncertain—The Dîme—Protestant Armenian Chapel—Real Religious
Liberty in Turkey—Education in Adana—Christian Sects fast
advancing in Education—Backwardness of Turks in this
respect—The Sheikh of the Sourijis—The Defterdar of the
Province—Scene in his Bureau—Prefect of Police of Adana—A
Conversation on Politics—The Russians—Yakoob Beg—Environs of
Adana unsafe even now—Support from the Authorities necessary
for the Traveller in Asia Minor 165-197