Chapter XIII: His Tour On The Continent In 1844 (1)

In 1844 he became so nervous and weak that he was forbidden exertion of any kind; his ailment is manifest in his tremulous handwriting. On medical advice, he takes a tour on the Continent with Mr. and Mrs. Phillipps and their children. His account of this tour is preserved in a Journal, and we think it well to give it entire, without any compression.

On Wednesday, July 3rd, 1844, I set off from Grace Dieu Manor for a
tour on the Continent with my dear friend, Ambrose Phillipps, his
wife, his two eldest boys, Ambrose and Edward, and John Squires, his
servant. He took his carriage, in which he and his family sat on the
railway from Loughborough to London, while I went in a second-class
carriage. We arrived at the Burlington Hotel, and dined about 7
o'clock. Afterwards we went out different ways. I called at Dr.
Griffiths, but he was not at home. I had tea with Dr. Maguire, whom
I found at home; we had an hour's talk, about the Oxford men
principally. Got home about 10.

Thursday, July 4.--Went with the Phillippses to Father Lythgoe's, in
Bolton Street, where I said mass, and breakfasted at 10. I went to
see Dr. Chambers, in Brook Street, being ordered by Dr. Wiseman to
consult him as to the propriety of taking a long tour, as is
proposed by Phillipps. Dr. Chambers recognized me at once, as I used
in 1824 or 1825 to follow his visits to the patients in St. George's
Hospital, with a view to learn medicine. He judged it quite
necessary that I should have at least three months' absence from
work, and approved of my travelling with {281} moderate exertion. So
I am fixed at last to set off. God knows how I shall go through. The
present plan is to go through Belgium, to Munich, the Tyrol, Venice,
Milan, Turin, Lyons, Paris, and home; and my purpose is to get
prayers for England's conversion, and to see men rather than places
and things. After Dr. Chambers, I went to the Bank, to get my letter
of credit, then to Buckingham Palace, to see my sister. After I had
waited a half-hour she returned from her drive, and took me to her
nursery apartments at the top of the house. I had my first glance at
Prince Albert, going out to ride with Colonel Bouverie. From Sarah,
I went to Lyttelton's house, 39, Grosvenor Place, where I found
Caroline Lyttelton was expected home in an hour, and so I went on to
call on Sisk, who was out, and I came back and saw Lyttelton, with
whom I went in his carriage towards the House of Lords, and was set
down in St. James's Street. On the table in Grosvenor Place I saw
what I was 21 years ago, in a miniature painted by Ross--a blooming
rosy youth. I did not believe it till Caroline told me. I came to
dine with Sarah at 8, and staid till 10. Our conversation was most
interesting, about the Queen and the children, and the great people
from abroad, &c., whom she saw; above all, the Czar and the Duke of
Wellington. She set me down at our hotel at 10½, after calling at
Neville Grenville's, where I saw Lady Charlotte and a large family.

Friday, July 5th.--Mass and breakfast as yesterday. About 11 started
for Dover, in the same order as from Loughborough; arrived at 5. I
went to call on Mr. Savage, the priest, my old companion at Rome. He
does not seem a movement man. He came to tea with us.

Saturday, July 6th.--As the packet was to start at 7, I missed
saying mass. As it happened, we had to wait on board till 9 for the
mail. We had intended to cross to Ostend, but Phillipps, getting
afraid of the long crossing for sickness, so we all agreed to prefer
the shorter-by-half passage to Calais. We had a good passage, but we
all were miserable; the two boys were very sick. However, as the
French boatmen assured us, the tread of the dry land of {282} France
worked wonders to cure us all. We went to Dessin's Hotel. I was full
well reminded of September, 1819, my first landing in France, and of
divers other epochs, Sept. 1820, Nov. 1820, and Feb. 1830. Before
dinner we went to the church to give thanks, and commend our future
to God. I asked _le Suisse de l'Eglise_ (the verger) to pray for
England. Nothing else done at Calais. We started in the afternoon
for S. Omer, which we reached late. The country we passed was very
fertile; for the first time I have seen cultivation which struck me
as superior to English; the state of the people is manifestly more
happy and prosperous. After tea I went to the Grand Vicaire, M.
Dumez, to ask leave for mass, &c. I had forgotten to get credentials
from Dr. Wiseman, and so he hesitated, but gave the _celebret_. I
went on, though tired, to M. Durier, Curé de Notre Dame, who
received me most cordially, and on my stating my errand, pressed me
to preach at the high mass on the morrow. I hesitated, but he came
with me to our hotel, and Phillipps joined in pressing it, and so I
wrote a quarter of an hour's worth before going to bed, hoping I was
not out of rule, but doubting.

Sunday, July 7.--Said mass at Notre Dame, a fine Gothic church; went
home to breakfast, and back to high mass at 9½. After the Gospel, M.
Durier first read the _annonces_, the Epistle, and the Gospel, and
introduced my object to the people. Then I went into the pulpit, and
made my address without any difficulty. He then rose opposite to me,
and pledged himself and his flock to pray for England. After mass, I
went a round of the convents of the town with an old man sent from
one of them with me. The convents which promised their prayers were
the following:

Les Ursulines, 37 nuns; 300 scholars.

Les Soeurs Hospitalières de S. Louis.

L'Hospice de S. Jean, served by nuns.

L'Hôpital Général des enfants trouvés, &c.

Les Religieuses de la Sainte famille.

Le Couvent du Saint Sacrement,
where are only 3 nuns, the Superioress an Englishwoman, who
observed that in her profession, when prostrate--a time when it
is said the chosen prayer is sure to be granted--the first thing
she asked was England's conversion.

Les Frères des Écoles Chrétiennes.
The Superior promised to recommend the prayers to his brethren
of 30 houses in this district, who meet in August for a retreat.

{283}

"We proceeded at 3 to Lille, stopping at the exit from St. Omer to
see the ruined Abbaye de St. Bertin. We stopped at Cussel, a place
on the top of a mountain commanding a grand prospect over a vast
plain richly wooded and cultivated. The maître d'hôtel wanted us
sadly to stay, but we went on, after a walk to the top of the mount,
and to the church. We came late to Lille, and not finding room at
l'Hôtel de l'Europe, we put up at l'Hôtel de Gand, not a very nice
one, in the Grande Place.

Monday, July 8.--I first went to the Church of St. Catherine, to see
Abbe Bernard, my friend, introduced by Mrs. Canning. He was gone,
yesterday, to Paris. I then went to Rue Royale, No. 61, memorable
for ever as the direction to which my letters from Brington to Miss
Dolling were addressed. M. Friot Chombard, who lives there, was also
absent from Lille. I then went to the Church of St. Étienne, where
the Grand Doyen lived; and, having seen him, I said mass. I then
called on him in his house, and obtained his promise to advocate the
cause of England. After breakfast, I went to the Church of St.
Maurice, which is called the Cathedral. It is the first I have seen
with four aisles. I saw nothing more in Lille; we left it about 12,
and reached Tournay about 2. I went at once to the Évéché, where I
found the Bishop's Secretary, who took me to a great convent of
nuns, which the Bishop has founded, and is building this house for.
It is to contain sixty nuns, and a great number of _pensionnaires_.
I was presented to his lordship in the garden, and obtained a full
promise of his patronage of the cause of England. I came back to
dine at the Hotel (du Singe d'Or); to my surprise and pleasure,
Talbot came in with Phillipps, who had met him in the Cathedral.
After dinner, he and I took a {284} carriage and went to see the
Passionists au Château d'Ere, about three miles off. Le Père Pierre,
Superior of the house, received us with all kindness. He has three
companions priests, and three brothers. They were building a church
of good size, and seem to prosper; but he complains that no
postulants come; they have received not one cleric yet. He thinks
they fear the bare feet. He came back with us to Tournay, to see
Phillipps. Soon after, we started on our way to Brussels; still by
post horses, as all the way from Calais. We stopped at Alte to
sleep. The hotel was one of the most agreeable and cheapest, though
small.

Tuesday, July 9.--There are two churches at Alte. I went to St.
Julien's, and said mass. Afterwards I introduced Phillipps and
Madame to the Doyen, M. Picquart, who was most pleasing and full of
knowledge, and promised all for England. We here had a contest with
John, which threatened his being sent home, but he came round before
the day was out. We started at 10 for Brussels. The country not
equal to France. We came to the Hôtel de Belle Vue, in the Place
Royale. Having engaged a suite of rooms, we sat down at once at the
_table d'hôte_. After it, I went to seek for the Abbé Donnet, to
whom I had a note from Seager. He was out. I then went to Ste.
Gudule, the cathedral, and saw the Vicaire, a Dutch priest, with
whom I settled to say mass to-morrow. Then I took a _vigilante_
(i.e. a cab) to the College de St. Michel, of the Jesuits, where I
saw the Second Superior. Then to the Redemptorists, where the
Superior took up the cause warmly. Home to tea.

Wednesday, July 10.--Went at 7 to Abbé Donnet; then to mass at Ste.
Gudule. At 9, Abbé (Chanoine) Donnet called, and, after an hour's
talk about Oxford, took us to Monsignor Pacci, the Pope's Nuncio,
Archbishop of Damietta. He is a most holy-looking man; conversed
with us most kindly; knew much about the Oxford people; promised his
help. I then let the Phillippses go their way, intending to make a
day of canvassing convents. But M. Donnet took me only to three, and
then had to go his way at 12. The three were:--

Soeurs de Notre Dame, Rue de l'Étoile, 14 nuns.

Pauvres Claires, Rue de Manige, Maison Mère a Bruges, 13 nuns.

Couvent de Bellaymont. Chanoinesses Régulières de St. Augustin.
Unique Maison.

{285}

After this, I went to Ste. Gudule, and met Phillipps, with whom I
went to the Jardin Botanique, and to the hospital for old men. It is
a grand establishment, by private charity. It contains 700 old men,
of whom 100 pay for themselves; the rest are kept free, and with
wonderful regard to their comforts. I called on a curé close by,
thinking to get the prayers of these _vielliards_; but he took me
for a begging priest, and turned me out of doors. _Deo gratias_.
Thence to the Musée, a collection of pictures, which hardly paid the
trouble of looking at. After dinner at the _table d'hôte_, we took a
carriage to go to Jette St. Pierre, to meet the Cardinal Archbishop
of Malines, at the Convent of the Sacré Coeur there. On the way we
saw an interesting church; outside was a tomb of Madame Malibren. At
Jette, Madame de Wall, my friend of 1832 at Bordeaux, introduced us
to the Cardinal. This was a consolation indeed. He undertook to
recommend England to all the Bishops of Belgium, invited me to their
meeting on the 29th July, and promised that all their priests and
convents should engage in the cause. This is a noble convent. Madame
de Wall said they prayed for England every half-hour in the day.

Thursday, July 11.--Said mass at St. Jacques, in the Place Royale.
Went to Malines by the _chemin du fer_, Phillipps in the carriage on
a truck, I in a _char-à-banc_. Arrived at l'Hôtel de la Grue just in
time for the _table d'hôte_, on which I only remark the immense
length of time taken to dine. After it, we went to the Petit
Séminaire, where we were warmly greeted by the Abbé Bonquéan, our
friend of Oscott and Grace Dieu. He took us about to a few places;
and at 5 to the Salut, at the Cathedral; after which he introduced
Miss Young, the convert, sister to Isabella. She went with us to
Hanicq's, the printer's, and to a fine old church, &c. I visited no
convents, reserving this for my return. Opposite our hotel, the
grand {286} Theatre des Lapons forced itself to be noticed till late
at night.

Friday, July 12.--After mass and breakfast, we went to visit the
Cardinal Archbishop, who graciously gave me a paper of testimonial,
which will, I hope, save some trouble. His countenance and manner
are highly prepossessing. At 12 we started for Antwerp, by railway,
leaving the carriage at the station at Malines. We arrived at the
Hôtel St. Antoine, just in time for the _table d'hôte_ at 2. There I
met Mr. Blore, with his daughter, now grown a fine young woman.
After dinner, to the Cathedral. I need not speak of the glorious
tower, 466 feet high. What attracted our attention most was the
wonderfully beautiful restoration of the stalls in oak carved work;
40,000 francs have been spent in this already, and not half the
stalls are finished, and this actually in process of work is more
pleasing to see than the most beautiful morsels of ancient work, for
the promise it gives of better days. The pulpit is a mass of
exquisite carving, in a style seemingly favourite in this part of
Belgium. The most beautiful we saw was at Brussels, Ste. Gudule,
where, below the preacher, are seen Adam and Eve banished from
Paradise; and above, the head of the serpent, who winds round the
pulpit, crushed by Mary. The same style of carving is around the
pulpit at Marines, Louvain, &c., but is seen no more at Liége. After
seeing the cathedral, we went to the Musée, containing first-rate
specimens of Rubens, citizen of Antwerp; as also of Van Dyke and
Quintin Matsys, of whom there is an excellent picture of the Descent
from the Cross. Finding myself near the College of the Jesuits, I
went in and saw the Rector, who took up our cause zealously. He
walked home with me to see Phillipps, and they soon got intimate.

Saturday, July 13.--After mass in the cathedral, we went, by last
night's appointment, to visit the Superior of the Jesuits, who
showed us his house. Then, Phillipps going to see some churches,
&c., I went with a lay brother, given me for guide by the Superior,
to visit convents.

{287}

We called at the following:--

Coletines, près la Porte Rouge, 28 nuns

Dames de l'Instruction Chrétienne, 17 nuns

Soeurs de Notre Dame, 20 nuns

Soeurs Grises, 34 nuns

Soeurs Noires, 49 nuns

Apostolines, in two houses, 67 nuns

Soeurs de Charité, 12 nuns

Béguinage (that is, a collection of houses, in which Sisters live
under a Superioress, not bound by vows for life) 54 nuns

Except the latter, where I was referred to the Director, who was not
so attentive, all received the proposal warmly. The brother was my
interpreter with many, who did not know French. At 1 we got home,
and I took the Phillippses to the curé of the cathedral, who
introduced to us M. Durlet, the young architect, who, with a partner
at Louvain, is doing the beautiful work in the choir. We went into
the cathedral again, and I was prevented going to two remaining
convents, but the curé promised to do it for me. M. Durlet came to
dine with us at the _table d'hôte_. I just called at l'Hôtel du
Park, to see Miss Dalton, who is ill there. Mr. Turpin and Mr.
Crowe, two Lancashire priests, are with her. The former accosted me
in the cathedral. We set off then to Malines by the railway; there
met Abbé Bonquéan; had tea, and went on to Louvain. We got in late,
in heavy rain; Phillipps had to walk from the railway a mile in the
rain. I went first to the Hôtel de Suide, where I found Dr.
Ullathorne and Mr. Hansom, his architect.

7th Sunday af. Pent. July 14.--I had my palpitation worse than ever
to-day. I wish to attribute it to my two days' abstinence, and not
to my walking after convents. It went off after breakfast. I said
mass at the Cathedral St. Pierre. High mass at 10. It was one of
extreme opposition to plain chant, with drums and orchestra. In this
church remember the beautiful tabernacle, a stone pinnacle, on the
Gospel side of the altar. There was no _prône_, and a second high
mass immediately after. The Hôtel de Ville is a famous piece of
Gothic, not so admirable to my view as {288} that at Brussels, which
is much larger, not so highly wrought, and has a beautiful spire.
After dinner, at 1, with Dr. Ullathorne, and at the _table-d'hôte_,
we went to see M. and Madame de Coux. We got into interesting talk
with him on matters religions, ecclesiastical, and political. He is
a professor of political economy, a Frenchman, brought up in England
under old Dr. Woods. We went on till after 5, and so missed the
_salut_, sermon, and procession at the church. He took us to the
University, where we saw Abbé Malou, who claimed me as an old
acquaintance, one of the three at the Collegio Nobile whom I knew at
Rome. He is Professor of Dogmatic Theology, most learned, high bred,
and amiable. M. Bonquéan came kindly to meet us from Malines, and
was with us till 6. After having spent nearly an hour with M. Malou,
who showed us the library (10,000 vols.) of which he is keeper, we
went to tea with M. de Coux, and came home at 9½.

Monday, July 15. St. Swithin.--Mass at St. Pierre, for the Feast _de
Divisione Apostolorum_. After breakfast I went again to M. de Coux,
who took me to see a M. Mühler, whom he recommended as tutor to John
Beaumont. At 12, railway to Liege. Dined at 5, at l'Hôtel de France.
At 6, _salut_ at St. Denys. Before dinner I went to the
Redemptorists, but found Père Van Held and Deschamps out of town.
The Bishop also away. We went at 7 a walk to a bookseller's, from
which I went in quest of the Grand Vicaire. I met an old priest in
the street, Abbé Marsomme, who took me to M. Jacquenot, the second
Grand Vicaire, and then walked home and took tea with us. These two
promised to spread prayer for England through Liege. I wrote to Mrs.
Beaumont before bed.

Tuesday, July 16.--Our Lady of Mount Carmel.--Mass at St. Denys,
where is a beautiful piece of old oak carving. Phillippses received
communion. After breakfast, at 9, we went to high mass at the
cathedral. It was solemn plain chant. The church has many
stained-glass windows, like those of Ste. Gudule, Brussels, of 1550,
much gone off from the older time. The pulpit is new carved oak,
with a beautiful tower with pinnacles above, a great improvement on
{289} the carved pulpit above named, though not so costly perhaps.
The church is much debased, as usual, in other parts. We met
Chanoine Erroye, who took us to the other great church, St. Jacques,
which rivals or surpasses the cathedral. The ceiling coloured,
though like the cathedral. They are doing a great deal to restore
this church. The Doyen was there overlooking the work. The stained
glass was much better than at Brussels, but not the best (date
1527); not so far down hill. The Chanoine then took us to the Abbé
Marsomme, who is Director of an hospice with 19 nuns, taking care of
180 old women, beautifully kept. The Quarant' Ore was being
celebrated in this church. It is kept up in Liége all the year
round, and comes four times to each church. We then went with the
Chanoine Erroye to the Grand Séminaire. The library is beautiful.
There are here 120 students; and at the Petit Séminaire, 360. They
go through nine courses at the Petit, and three at the Grand, so
that 40 are sent on the mission every year, and 40 more come on
below. Came home to _table d'hôte_ at 1. After it we made an attempt
to go to Angleur, 3 miles off, where Mrs. Ambrose's father, Hon.
Thomas Clifford, who died at Liége in 1817, is buried. We were
stopped by mud and rain, and came back, seeing the church of Ste.
Croix, which was not very remarkable (_Mem_. a dog carrying the keys
as porter), and St. Martin, a fine church of second rate, but famous
as the place where, at one of the side altars, the feast of Corpus
Christi was celebrated for the first time, owing to the inspirations
received by a nun called Soeur Julienne. The 6th Centenary will be
held in 1846. We met a young, amiable-looking priest in the church.
He promised to think of England at the altar, in the special mass of
the Blessed Sacrament, which is celebrated at it every Thursday,
whatever feast may interpose. It was heavy rain, and we came home to
_salut_ at St. Denys, and thence to the hotel. I wrote up a good
deal of this journal.

Wednesday, July 17. St. Osmond.--We took a stouter equipage, and got
to Angleur early. I said mass, and the Phillippses communicated over
the place of her father's repose. The boys served the mass. The
Curé, Matthias Jn. Convardy, who remembered Mr. Clifford while
himself quite {290} young, gave us breakfast after, very kindly. All
these priests were warm for England. We returned to Liége, and I
went to the banker; then home to dinner at 1. Then went off by
railway to Aix-la-Chapelle. It passes through beautiful romantic
scenery. There is no railway with so many tunnels in the distance. I
got into conversation with a party of Oxonians going to spend the
long vacation at Baden. One of them, Mr. G. F. Brown, of Trinity,
was full of information, and quite moving on, a great friend of W.
Palmer, of Magdalen. He promised to visit Oscott. We came to the
Hôtel Nuelleus, a very grand one. I went to the Chief Canon, the
Grand Vicaire being gone to Cologne, and got leave for mass
to-morrow. We are now in Prussia, and all on a sudden all
German--hardly a word of French spoken. We had tea, and I finished
my Journal up, in my room, after saying matins.

Thursday, July 18.--I went to the cathedral, and after mass, saw the
wonderful relics which are preserved in the sacristy of the
cathedral. This cathedral consists of a round Byzantine building,
which was built by Charlemagne as the chapel to his palace; and a
high Gothic choir, which was added to it after the palace had been
burnt down. A young priest showed the relics; he is always in
waiting for the purpose, except for the time of high mass and
office. The great relics--viz., the dress of the Blessed Virgin, the
clothes which our Lord had on Him on the cross, and the cloth into
which John Baptist's head fell--are kept in a magnificent chest,
which is shown, but is only opened every seven years, and when a
crowned head comes. The next time is July 10, 1846. Above this chest
is one containing the bones of Charlemagne, whose skull and
spine-bone, and even hunting-horn, are shown in separate
reliquaries. His crown and sword are at Vienna. Here is shown also
the girdle of our Lord, of leather, with Constantine's seal upon it;
the rope with which he was tied to the pillar; the girdle of Our
Lady; and many other glorious relics less important. The interior of
the doors enfolding these treasures is lined most beautifully with
paintings of Albert Durer, and many admirable Byzantine paintings.
{291} These relics were principally given to Charlemagne by the
Caliph, Haroun Alraschid. The cases were gifts of several emperors,
&c., as Lothaire, Charles V., Philip II. They were preserved in the
French Revolution by a priest, who conveyed them to Paderborn and
hid them. After breakfast I returned to the cathedral with Phillipps
for high mass, which was in solemn plain chant, and then saw the
relics again at 11½, after going to the Palais de Justice. At 12 I
got a little dinner, and went by the railway to Grand, parting from
the Phillippses, please God, for a fortnight only. I went to bed at
the Hôtel de Flandre, leaving no luggage--all left at Malines.

Friday, July 19.--Went to the cathedral to say mass. My morning was
taken up with going to the railway about my poor luggage, which at
last I saw, and visiting the Provincial of the Jesuits, to see about
my retreat. I dined at the hotel. The cathedral is a most beautiful
specimen of the Greek fittings in a Gothic church. I did not stop to
have the finest pictures uncovered, for I had my business to see
after. Two other beautiful churches, St. Nicholas and St. Michael.
No signs here of Gothic restorations. At 3 I went with the
Provincial to Franchismes, where they have bought an ancient
Prémontré Abbey, which does not preserve much of the abbey still,
except some corridors, once, as it seems, cloisters. It is, however,
a beautiful establishment for its end. I saw and spoke to two
English and one Irish novice, of course about England. I went back
to Gand; and there Père Coultins, by desire of the Provincial, went
with me to the Recollets, a reform of the Franciscans; their chief
house is at St. Froud. Then to the Pauvres Claires; and then to one
of the two Béguinages. Here are establishments, in one of which 800,
and in the other 300, _quasi_ nuns live in a cluster of separate
houses.

Their origin is immemorial. They are bound by vows of obedience and
chastity, not poverty, for the time that they remain. Hardly ever
does one return to the world. The Père Coultins promised to visit
for me the other convents of the town. This is what I could do for
Ghent. At 6, I started by railway to Louvain, where I was received
as an {292} old acquaintance at the Hôtel de Suide. The Provincial
sends me here for my retreat. In the train to Malines, I had Mr.
Maude and Mr. Perry. Finished Journal, and to bed at near 12.

Saturday, July 20.--After mass at the cathedral, and breakfast, I
went to the Seminary of the Jesuits, with a letter from the
Provincial to Père Rosa, the rector. He introduced me to Père
Vanderghote, who is to direct my retreat, and left me with him. We
went to walk about the town, called on M. Malou, who undertook to
translate a prayer from Dr. Wiseman's prayers for England, into
French. I called on Mr. De Coux, and at I dined with these two
fathers, and we went into the garden. I then wrote to Dr. Wiseman,
Phillipps, and M. Bonquéan, and at ¼ to 5 began my retreat for eight
days please God, till the end of which my present journal intermits.
_Orate pro me omnes qui diligitis Deum_.

Monday, July 29.--I rose this morning out of my retreat, hoping that
by the help of Almighty God I may preserve some of its fruit
durably. I said mass once more at 7½ in the private chapel, then
after a conversation with my kind Father Vanderghote, I went to the
College du Saint Esprit, where I saw M. Malou, and then went into
the hall, where theses were defended by a young priest called
Bacten, and then degrees conferred, and a discourse in Latin
pronounced by Abbé Malou. The Nuncio and the Bishop of Amiens were
there, with many others. At 2 I dined with M. Malou. The chief
guests were the Grand Vicaire de Bruges, a monseigneur, and Abbé
Marais, of the Sorbonne; much conversation was on England, and some
good interest excited. I went again to see Père Rosa, and
Vanderghote, and at 6½ was on the railway to Malines with a
multitude of priests. I went to the Petit Séminaire, and supped, and
M. Bonquéan walked with me to the Grue.

Tuesday, July 30.--Said mass at the cathedral, and then at 8 went to
the Archbishop's palace, where, with much trouble, I got at the
Chanoine's private secretary, who introduced me to the Cardinal and
his five suffragan Belgian {293} Bishops of Bruges, Tournay, Gand,
Namur, and Liege, sitting after breakfast. I sat down, and in a
short conversation a great deal seemed to be done for the cause. I
was desired to draw up documents with M. Bonquéan to-day, and to
dine with the prelates at 1 to-morrow, to hear their conclusion.
_Laus Deo semper_. At 10½ I went to M. Bonquéan, where I found two
young Oxford men, whom I afterwards found were Christie of Oriel and
his brother. They went with M. Bonquéan and me on all our rounds to
the convents of the town to-day. At 12 I dined at the Petit
Séminaire, then, with M. Bonquéan and M. Vandervelde, who was very
zealous for England, I began to prepare for to-morrow; at 4½ the
Christies came, and we walked till 7. The convents which we went to,
and which all promised, and (except one which was cold) all with
great warmth, were:--

Les Soeurs Hospitalières de Ste. Elisabeth, 21 nuns.

Les Marie Colae 17 nuns.

Soeurs de Charité, not St. Vincent's, but a house under the
direction of the Grand Séminaire, 23 nuns.

Soeurs de Notre Dame, Abbé Bonquéan is Director here; we saw an
interesting English novice, and stayed some time, 30 nuns.

Les Soeurs Apostolines, 24 nuns.

Les Pauvres Claires, not so zealous, 25 nuns.

Lastly, we visited a new house and institute called Frères de la
Miséricorde, lately founded by a canon of the cathedral, by name
Scheppers. There are now 27 brothers, of whom 25 are on their
mission, which is to enter, several together, the prisons of the
country, and devote themselves to the spiritual and bodily care and
cure of the prisoners. The Government favours them remarkably; it
seems a most notable institution, and the founder was a most
interesting man. He promised warmly to engage all his brethren. At
7½ I went to the station, and met Elwes, on his way home from
Kissengen. I brought him up, and we had supper at the Grue. I went
to bed after a good bit of work to be got up, office, Journal,
account, &c.

{294}

Wednesday, July 31. St. Ignatius.--Elwes and I said mass at the
cathedral. From 10 till near 1 he and I were both at work copying an
address for the Bishops, of which I thought to give each a copy. At
one I went to dine at the Cardinal's. There were there six Bishops
and the Nuncio, and many of the chief clergy. I sat next to Mgr. de
Namur; afterwards I took an hour's walk in the garden, and at 4
attended the meeting of the Bishops, who came to a happy resolution
of granting an indulgence of 40 days for every mass, every
communion, even hearing mass, or saying it with a memento for
England, and reciting a prayer which they determined on. The
Cardinal was full of noble kindness. This grant was more than I had
proposed in my paper, and so my morning's work and Elwes's was
useless in a very agreeable way. I went to the Grue and found M.
Bonquéan and the Christies with Elwes. In packing up I found my
passport was lost, and went off, therefore, uncertain whether I
could pass the frontier without writing for one to Brussels. The
Christies travelled with me. I had some interesting conversation
with each about their position in the Church of England. They took
it with great gentleness, and answered well. They seem not to have
thought of coming over, and yet to be in good disposition to do what
they shall see right. We met very agreeably with the very priest of
whom we have heard so much, who learnt English to instruct a lady in
his parish near Bruges, whose daughter was already a convert, and
writes letters to Dr. Wiseman for publication in England (Miss
Heron). We became great friends, and he, with another young priest,
his neighbour, who are taking a little tour together, came with us
to the Aigle Noir, nearer the Redemptorists than l'Hôtel de France.
We were very nearly upset in the omnibus, as we came up from the
station; it was overloaded with luggage, and struck the wheels on
the right in the sand, having got off the paving. We got out,
unhurt, into another omnibus passing by; supper, and to bed.

Thursday, August 1.--Said mass at the Redemptorists. Le Père Van
Held invited us all to breakfast, i.e., the Christies {295} and the
priests, our new friends. I met there the Bishop's secretary, who
gave me a letter to the Governor of Liege, Baron Van der Stein, who,
happily, was come this morning into town, and gave me my passport. I
then went on with my _vigilante_ to see the Miss Nicholls, who have
been living two years at the Benedictine convent, Quai d'Avroy. I
met them last at Boulogne, in 1838. They promised to be busy in
getting prayers. I then visited the Jesuits' College, and Abbé
Marsomme. Dined at 1 at the _table d'hôte_ with the Christies, whom
Père Van Held had sent about sight-seeing with one of his priests.
At 2.45 we took the convoy to Cologne, which we reached duly at 9¼,
and went to the Hôtel du Douane, Gasthof zum Kölner Dom, close to
the cathedral; we took a walk round the cathedral by moonlight after
supper.

Friday, August 2.--I went to say mass in the cathedral, which we
then looked round. It gives a melancholy spectacle of what miserable
times have been gone through while it remained thus unfinished so
long; but it is a consolation to see the glorious restoration now
going on. The most beautiful points of the decoration of the choir
are the fresco paintings above the pillars, and the rich gilded
diapering on the lower part of them round the choir, in which one
column alone is finished; and beautiful figures under canopies on
each column, half-way to the top. The building is surrounded with
great masses of stones for the completing of it. It is expected that
it will be finished, fit for consecration, in four years, but not
quite complete till twenty years hence, please God, if we have
peace. After breakfast we went to call on Professor Michel, at the
Seminary. He could not come with us. We saw the Jesuits' church, and
returned to assist at part of a requiem mass at the cathedral, the
anniversary of the Archbishop Ferdinand. I spoke to the
Vicar-General about England, then went home, wrote to M. Malou,
dined alone; and at 1 set off by a steamboat on the Rhine for
Koenigswinter, parting from the Christies in the boat. I had nothing
very remarkable in the passage; reached Koenigswinter at 5. I took
up my lodgings at the Hôtel de Berlin, where the Phillippses had
been for twelve days. {296} They came in from a ride in the
mountains about 6, and we went to tea with Count and Countess
Kurtzrock. He is Mrs. Ambrose's second cousin. Their daughter Marie
and her governess gave us music.

Saturday, August 3.--Said mass at the little church at Sta. Maria.
The altar with altar-cloth only over the altar stone. The rest of
the altar was brown wood. We breakfasted with Mrs. P.'s aunt, La
Baronne de Veich, whom they are visiting. She lives in a small house
with two nieces, Antoinette and Fanny Lutzou. At 10 we went across
the Rhine to Gothsburg, a watering-place, where Mrs. Amherst and
daughter have been staying; but they are gone to Italy. We walked up
to a castle battered into ruin in the Thirty Years' war, overhanging
the town. The little church half-way up the hill is a bad specimen
of taste enough inside. We came back to dinner at the Baroness's at
2. I went home for two hours, then walked with Phillipps and Tony,
as they call Antoinette, to see a house which she is undertaking to
form into an asylum for old poor women; back to tea, and home to the
hotel at 9.

Sunday, August 4. 10th after Pentecost, here marked 9th.--I heard
mass at 7 with the famous Kirchen Gesang, of whom I heard from Dr.
Sweers while translating Overbury's Life. All the people sang German
hymns through the whole mass with wonderful unison. After it I said
mass. At 10 was the high mass, i.e., another mass with Kirchen
Gesang, rather more solemn; and a sermon. I came home then and wrote
a letter to the Vicar-General at Cologne. I received from M.
Bonquéan my book of papers pro Anglia, which I had left at Malines.
At 1, dinner. Professor Schutz, of the University of Bonn, came to
dine. We saw him off at 3, and then found that some one must go to
Bonn to get money from the bank; so I took the charge, that I might
see Bonn. I crossed the Rhine in a boat, and met an omnibus which
took me on the road I travelled in 1820. The cathedral at Bonn,
called the Münster, is of a style older than Gothic, but not quite
Byzantine, something like our Saxon churches. The choir is elevated
high above the nave, which sinks below the level outside, or the
outside {297} must have risen. Some arches are Gothic. The
University is a large building, what would be called Grecian. In
front of it is a handsome promenade or park. At 7½ I called a second
time at Professor Schutz's house, and found him with M. Marais, of
the Sorbonne. He gave me coffee, &c. His rooms are full of
curiosities from Palestine and Egypt. In 1819, 1820, and 1821, he
was travelling, commissioned by Government, a literary journey
through Egypt, Abyssinia, &c. He is Professor of Scripture, a great
Orientalist, a friend of Dr. Wiseman's. We spoke about Humanarianism
and Overbury, and the Paris University, &c. I went out and met my
omnibus at a ¼ to 9, crossed the Rhine, and got home at 10.

Monday, August 5. Sta. Maria ad Nives.--Mass at 7½; at 9 we went to
a high mass de requiem. They always sing one for every person who
dies; and when the family can afford it, bread is given to the poor,
as was done to-day. I stayed at home nearly, till one, then dinner
at la Baronne's. Mr. Ambrose was not there, having had a fall
yesterday, and taking rest for precaution. After dinner, looked over
the Life of Napoleon in German; came home till I went to tea. The
Count and Countess Kurtzrock and daughters came. The Countess
promised to be an associate for England, and to spread it at
Hamburg, where they live.

Friday, August 6th.--Mass at 6. I started at 7.30 by a steamer for
Mayence. We passed Coblentz (lat. _confluentia_), at the confluence
of the Moselle and the Rhine, at 1, and then dined (_table d'hôte_)
on deck. We made agreeable acquaintance with two priests, M. Bandry,
Chanoine of Cologne, and M. Steigmeier, a P.P. in the Black Forest.
The first went off at Coblentz, the second spoke only Latin; both
were highly interested for England. I was busy a good deal with
reading German, with a dictionary. The weather was beautiful till
about 6, when suddenly a terrible squall of wind, and thunder and
lightning came on. The steamer was driven aground on a sand-bank,
and seemed likely to capsize with the wind and waves. Terrible
fright and crying among ladies and children. We seemed to think
little of the rain and lightning which gleamed on every side {298}
of us. It was very frightful; at least, it appeared so, and I saw
what a warning was given here to be ready at a moment. No great
preparation, I found, would be likely to be made in a time like
that. It brought on me a palpitation which lasted till morning. We
got off after ten minutes, as the storm blew over, and got to the
Hôtel du Rhine at Mayence (Mainz) about 9. My greatest alarm since
Messina.

Wednesday, Aug. 7. San. Gaetano. Remembered Affi, 1820.--Said mass
at the cathedral. This is a venerable old church, St. Boniface's
see. It is something like our Norman style of architecture; at the
west end is a remarkable baptistery, with a high vaulted roof now
opening to the church. There are many fine monuments, and many more
of the worst style; fauns and dragons supporting archbishops, &c.
They showed us a holy-water stoup, where Gustavus Adolphus, having
ridden into the church, made his horse drink! Near the church is a
statue of Guttenburg, the first printer, claimed as a citizen of
Mainz; bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen. We had not time to see more. I
was not disposed, with my palpitation just subsiding, to go after
the Archbishop or others. We started past for Manheim; on the way we
looked at the torn-down cathedral of Worms, in a later style than
Mayence, and very venerable. This place was famous in the contests
between Charles V. and Luther. We dined at Manheim, then took the
railway to Heidelberg, where we put up at the Badische Hof. We saw
nothing at Manheim but the appearance of the town, which is very
handsome. A French gentleman whom I met in the town, Girardon, of
Lyons, said the ducal palace was very grand.

Thursday, Aug. 8.--I went out at 9½, having had rather a bad night,
and said mass at the Jesuits' old church, which is now the only
exclusively Catholic church in Heidelberg. The curé lives in an old
college; the church was dreary and empty, and things seem to be at a
low point. We went after breakfast in a carriage to the ruins of the
castle, which are fine in their way, but not of the right style.
Luther was fostered here by the Elector Palatine. It was burnt by
{299} lightning in 1764. In the altar we saw the great tun, which is
no wonder to my mind. At 11 we took the railway to Baden, through
Carlsruhe. There we took a walk before dinner, saw the gaming-table,
which is a famous occupation here; I never saw one before in a
public saloon. I met Mr. Woollett. a Catholic of London, and his two
daughters. He wants confession to an English priest, and I went with
him to the convent of the Sepulchrines to see about it. They
promised prayers for England. 12 nuns; the same order as New Hall;
dinner at 5. Then we took a carriage to the ruins of the old castle,
much grander than at Heidelberg. I did not venture to go up the
castle, as I felt myself not fit. We came back to tea with Mrs.
Craven, née La Ferronaye, wife of the English _Chargé d'affaires_,
who is a convert. We met l'Abbé Martin de Nerlieu, curé de S. Jaques
à Paris, and his vicaire, and Miss Jane Young. Home at 9½.

Friday, August 9.--I had to take a carriage and go at 6 o'clock to
Lichtenthal, a mile or two from Baden, where the Herr Landherr is
curé, and has power to give leave to hear confessions. There is a
convent there of 18 nuns, Bernardines, who promised to pray for
England. I returned and said mass at the convent in Baden, having
first heard the confessions of Mr. Woollett and Miss Young's maid. I
thought that night, as I lay in bed with my heart beating, that I
must see a doctor to-day, and consult about the propriety of
travelling; but the Phillippses both reasoned against this, and I
saw it differently by daylight. We dined at the _table d'hôte_ at 1,
and then set off on our way towards Munich. We travelled to-day
through the grand scenery of the Black Forest, and arrived at 9 at
Neuenburg, where there was a very civil host, and a nice inn, though
a second rate.

Saturday, August 10. St. Lawrence.--The first, I think, (no, except
1835), on which I have lost mass since my priesthood; but there was
no Catholic church. We made a slow day's journey; we began badly by
going the first stage to Wildbad, from which we returned nearly to
Neuenburg, as it seemed on our road right. The reason was, as we
{300} thought, that they directed us wrong yesterday, and sent us a
longer road, whereas we should have got straight to Wildbad, without
going to Neuenburg. We should have had a chapel at Wildbad, where a
priest came during the season only. We got to Stuttgard at 5, and
had a splendid dinner at the hotel. We met an old courier of Mr.
Phillipps's, afterwards clerk at the Foreign Office, who lives here
on a pension from England. He knew Cavani. He lives now at this
hotel. Stuttgard seems an uninteresting place for a capital; has
4,000 inhabitants only. It is well to have seen it. We went on again
in the evening to get to Göppingen, where we we were told there was
a Catholic church, and we did not get to bed till 2; I fasting for
to-morrow, and fearing a bad night.

Hôtel de la Poste, Sunday, Aug. 11.--I slept well, after all. I got
up at 8, and we started directly in heavy rain for Gross Eplingen,
two miles on our way, where the nearest Catholic church was. There
was none in Göppingen. We arrived at the middle of the parochial
mass. The Kirchen Gesangen are very impressive. After it I said
mass, and after visiting the pastor, we went on to Ulm, which we
reached at 5 about. Radhoff (Wheat) Hotel. Before dinner we went and
spent a long time in the old cathedral, now a Lutheran church, and
for that reason, however strangely, preserved wonderfully from
spoiling. It was most magnificent; the aisles divided by most
elegant pillars, a most glorious tabernacle, still standing, far
surpassing Louvain. The old triptic, with a beautiful group in
wood-carving, still over the altar; a beautiful pulpit in the style
of the tabernacle; the screen was gone; and the stained glass
preserved only in the choir and one or two more places; but so far,
I thought it the richest I knew. It was wonderful how much better
was the appearance of the church than if it had been in Catholic
hands. After dinner was busy upstairs till 10½.

Monday, Aug. 12.--Got up at 5½; we were taken to the Catholic
church, a poor thing, compared with the ancient one. I said mass
there at 8; at 9½ we started for Augsburg. There was nothing
remarkable on the way but the {301} excessive slowness of the
Bavarian post-boys; they are remarkable, I believe, among the
Germans. We dined about 5, at a small town called Tusmarchausan, a
neat, clean, country town. Talked French with an old Italian who
attends at the inn, and Latin with a Dominican priest, in a blue
great-coat and Hessian boots. We set off again at 7, and reached
Augsburg at 9½ or 10. Put up at the Three Moors,--Drei Mohren.

Tuesday, Aug. 13.--Went to say mass at the Church of St. Ulrick, at
the altar of St. Afra, whose body was shown in a glass case over it,
as it is within the octave of her feast. She was martyred at
Augsburg, under Domitian. After breakfast, I went to the bank, then
to the cathedral, where there was a high mass _de requiem_; then I
went to seek the Chanoine Stadler, a great friend of the English. I
first saw another canon, and the Dean, at the consistorium; spoke
about England. I found Canon Stadler at a convent called _of the
English nuns_, because founded by English 200 years ago; an
examination of the girls under education was going on. The
Regierung's President and other personages were there. I sat near
the canon at this for half an hour; then went home to dinner. There
came to dine a Scotch Kirk minister, who was at the convent which I
visited, Mr. ---- He is almost a Catholic in doctrine, but is
connected with the Apostolics in England, and so has, I think, no
disposition to turn now. Canon Stadler came late to dinner, and
persuaded me to put off our journey to Munich from the three to the
seven o'clock train. He took us to the Church of the Holy Cross, to
see the miraculous Host, which, in 1194, was stolen by a woman of
Augsburg, taken home, and wrapped in wax. After five years, she
confessed it, and brought it back. On opening the wax, the priest
found the appearance changed into that of flesh and blood. It has
been preserved ever since, and has been the means of many miracles.
We saw it in an _ostensoire_, quite bright-red. The choir of the
church is surrounded with pictures on the subject. We then went to
the convent again, from, whence the Scotch gentleman took me to the
bishop, whom we found near the cathedral. He talked no French, and I
{302} recommended England as I could in Latin. We went to the Canon
Stadler's house, where the Phillippses were waiting; we parted from
him, and came and had tea at the Hof, and then took railway to
Munich. We reached the Bayerische Hof, Hôtel de Bavière, at 9 3/4.
This is one of the largest hotels in Europe, they say.

Wednesday, Aug. 14. Vigil of the Assumption.--I said mass in the
cathedral, which is near our hotel. It is a high, large building,
but very much disfigured. We all stayed at home till 12; then
Phillipps and I went to call on Dr. Döllinger, who was out. I had to
dine alone, as it is reckoned wrong for a priest to _manger gras_ on
a fasting day in public. After dinner, we all went to see the new
Church of St. Louis, decorated splendidly by the King. Then the
Church of St. Blaise in the faubourg, also decorated by him, both
built by the town. We thought them very beautiful, but decidedly
falling short of the right mark in point of style. In Ludwig Church
is a _chef d'oeuvre_ of Cornelius, "The Last Judgment." It is not to
our taste, nor to the king's; for Cornelius went away to Berlin,
disgusted with the king's not admiring it. Among other defects,
there are no real altars, only portable stones to be let into
scagliola altars, which in Ludwig Kirche are all exactly one like
the other. At 7, I went to the Franciscan convent, to confess to
Père Constantius. He introduced me to the Provincial and community
at supper. I spoke of England in lame Latin. At supper, in the
hotel, we were joined by Mr. Wake, son of the Rev. Mr. Wake, of
Courtene Hall, who recognised me, after about seventeen years. He
alarmed us with his idea that a war will break out between France
and England about Pritchard. What a war would this be!

Thursday, Aug. 15. Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.--I had
some difficulty in getting leave to hear the Phillippses'
confessions, but I succeeded, and said mass at nine, during the high
mass, with drums and all sort of music. We went again to mass at 11;
then Phillipps and I went and found Döllinger, who came back and
dined with us at the _table d'hôte_. Then we walked with him to see
Mr. and Mrs. Phillipps. He is a Professor of law, son of an
Englishman {303} in Prussia. Then we went to see old Mr. Gorres, one
of the first minds in Germany. At 8, we went to tea with Mr. and
Mrs. Rio, the sister to Jones of Llanarth. We found there Mr.
Dugdale, a northern English priest, and others. The conversation was
very agreeable. Mrs. Rio is very infirm with sciatica, or settled
pains like it.