Chapter XIII: His Tour On The Continent In 1844 (3)

Sunday, Sept. 15.--We went together this morning to the old basilica
of St. Ambrose, where I said mass at the saint's tomb, in the crypt.
The Phillippses received communion. Then we saw the splendid
covering of the altar above, in the church. It is exposed only on
three days at mass--St. Ambrose, SS. Gervase and Protase, and Corpus
Christi. SS. Gervase and Protase's relics are there, with St.
Ambrose's. This altar cost to a bishop who gave it, 80,000 sequins
of gold, about the year 1000. I spoke to the Directeur du Séminaire
de Chamberry, who was there, and he promised to speak of England. We
went home to breakfast at 10½. Assisted at high mass in the Duomo
again; not so solemn as yesterday. The procession of the Blessed
Sacrament before it did not please me much. After high mass I went
to call on the Cardinal again. I was not so much disappointed as in
the case of the Bishop of _Brixen_, for I had heard nothing
promising about this interview as in the other cases; but I felt as
one defeated when I went away. I went to the Piazza del Castello to
see the Contessa del Verme and her sister, English people, converts
to whom Abbate Vittadini, at Bergamo, recommended me. Her sister,
Miss Mary Webster, is just about entering the order of the
Visitation here. The Count came in just when I was gone out, and
followed me to S. Alessandro, of the Barnabites, which he had heard
me ask for as I left his house. I brought him to see Phillipps. We
dined at 3½, and at 4½ went to the Arena, or Amphitheatre, where
there was a grand _spettacolo nautico e pirotecnico._ The arena was
full of water, and we had five races of boats, three of men, one of
{326} women, and one of boys rowing; then a procession of two great
illuminated galleys filled with musicians; then what struck me most,
as most new to me, the ascent of fifty fine balloons; then of one
very large one; then a splendid display of fireworks, ending as
often with an illuminated palace, with an inscription _alle scienze,
alle letters, alle arti_, as the spectacle was in honour of the
Sixth Italian Scientific Congress, now being held here. We got home
at ¼ to 9; I almost well again.

Monday, September 16.--I said mass at St. Fidele, formerly one of
the three Jesuit churches. At 8 we set off in a carriage to see the
Certosa of Pavia. We got to it at 10½, and were two hours examining
its beautiful details. Women are now forbidden entrance into the
choir, and so Mrs. Ambrose had to stay in the body of the church,
while we, with other people who had come to see it, saw the rich
high altar and many of the finest things. There are not many
precious stones, like rubies, emeralds, &c., but a profusion of
altar-fronts of Pietra-dura, beautiful _alto relievos_ in marble,
and many fine pictures. The convent is but lately reinhabited. Count
Mellerio was the means of replacing monks there. They are all
French. We saw the Prior, who knew Michael MacMahon. He promised to
recommend England not only here, but by letter in other houses. We
dined at an inn half a mile from the church, called Albergo della
Certosa, and came back to Milan by 5. I got off near the Contrada S.
Maria Falconeria, to call at a convent of Sisters of Charity of the
same order as those of Sta. Lucia, at Venice. I saw the Superioress.
Then I went to the Count del Verme's palace. La Contessa was
confined this morning. I saw Miss Webster, who spoke about two
English girls whom they are instructing, wishing me to receive the
confession of one who cannot speak Italian. I went out with the
priest who instructs them, Don Gaetano Fumagalli, to see them. We
first went to the convent of the Salesiani, 54 nuns (visitation),
into which Miss Webster is about to enter, and though the time was
past, we saw the mistress of novices through the grate, who was very
gracious about England. Then we went to a high story in a house
where these girls lodge, paid {327} for by the Cardinal. After
coming home I went, on an invitation obtained by the Conte del
Verme, to a grand assembly and concert at the Accademia, or the
_Nobil Società_. The gayest rooms I have seen a long time. I came
home soon after ten, for I knew nobody there, and was almost the
only priest I saw; certainly the only one in a cassock.

Tuesday, September 17.--Mass at St. Fidele. At 8 Count Mellerio
came, and we started for his villa at Gernetto, beyond Monza. He
took Mrs. A. and Amb., and I and a boy went in our carriage, with
four vetturino horses. We stopped at Monza to see the glorious relic
of the Iron Crown given by the Empress Helena to Constantine, in
which is inserted, as a ring of iron within a larger ring of gold,
one of the nails of Our Lord's crucifixion beat out into that form.
It has crowned from thirty to forty kings of Italy. Among them,
Napoleon last but one. Other grand relics of the Passion are with
it, two thorns, and a piece of the sponge. Other relics are in the
sacristy. This is kept over an altar within rich doors. The
Canonico, who was with us in the church, promised to recommend
England. We went on to the palace of the Archduke, surrounded by a
park fifteen miles round, dressed like an English park, a noble
palace. Then on to Gernetto, where we were for two or three hours
before dinner walking gaily with the Count round his beautiful
grounds. The villa is very handsome. Two priests of the
neighbourhood dined with us at 3. One told me that Count Mellerio is
one of the richest, or rather the richest nobleman in Milan,--about
£15,000 a year of our money. He is alone, having lost his wife and
four children. He came back with us to our hotel, where I found
Count del Verme to tell me that the confession of the girls was put
off. They have been left here by their mother. Their parents, ----
and Ann Carraway, live at Newcastle-under-Lyne. Their grandfather
and mother, James and Mary Freakley, at Cheapside, Handley. I went
with the Count to the assembly of the learned men who are now met in
Milan,--not so smart as yesterday, but very numerous. Then to a
café, to read news about the effects of O'Connell's liberation.

{328}

Wednesday, September 18.--I went with Phillippses to the Duomo to
say mass for them at St. Charles's tomb, but I found it occupied,
and so I went to San Fidele again, came back to breakfast, and saw
Conte Mellerio, who had called. Then went with them to the Brera,
where I went quickly through the gallery, and left them, taking the
carriage to go to the hospital of the Fate-bene Fratelli, which is a
fine establishment for 100 sick. The Vicario, whom I saw, promised
to recommend England to the Provincial, who is here, and through him
to the thirty brothers here, and five houses in Lombardy--_vento_.
Then I went to the bank. Dined at 1, and at 2 we started with a
Swiss _voiturier_, whom we had engaged to take us to Geneva. We
passed the beautiful triumphal arch, L'Arco della Pace, reckoned the
finest in the world, ancient and modern. We got to sleep at a nice
inn, in a place called Casiua buon Jesu. I wrote a letter to Dr.
Wiseman.

Thursday, September 19. San Januarius.--I said mass at the little
oratory of the village. There is mass here only on Sundays
generally, but the bell rung three times for my mass, and we had a
full chapel. This chapel not very neat; it seemed used for a
school-room. We started at ½ past 7, and reached Avona at 12 to
dine. How I was struck with the remembrance of the last time in this
place with my father and mother, after coming in a boat with Dr.
Wilson from Bavino. The inn is a fine new house since then. We saw a
steamboat pass, which plies daily the whole length of the lake. I
missed going to St. Charles's statue and the seminary near it,
belonging to the diocese of Novara, where I should have liked to go
to preach England. After dinner we started and went round to Strass,
where we stopped and went up the mountain's side to see Rosmini's
Novitiate, which overlooks the village. It is a large house, without
beauty or character, unhappily. We knew we should not find Rosinini,
who is at Roveredo. We saw Segnini and two other priests, Paoli and
Gagliardi. They have thirty novices. The situation is beautiful. The
ground belonged before to Madame Bolognaro, who has a large house in
the town, where, while we were at the convent, the Bishop of {329}
Novara came. I would not have failed to ask an audience had I been
alone, but I made the priests promise to speak to him of England. We
took a boat to go to the Isola Bella, to see the palace and gardens
on our way to Bavino, the carriage going on there by itself. It was
almost dark when we got there, and we could only see the suite of
grand rooms and pictures, and the chapel with the old family tombs
brought from Milan, by candlelight. _Mem_. A room of rockwork
underneath the chief suite, where Bonaparte dined, and the bedroom
he slept in. The whole of this grandeur is made worse than worthless
by the indecent statues and pictures which are all about the place.
We got to Bavino at 8; a nice new inn.

Friday, Sept. 20.--Ember Day, but no fast for me! I got to say mass
at 4½, and we started at 6 to ascend the Simplon. The day was
beautiful. We got to Domodossola at 11. We went up the beautiful
road to the Monte Calvario, of which Gentili has made me think so
much, first having taken a look at their college in the town, where
there are 19 boarders and more than 200 out-students. At the Calvary
two priests received us kindly. Along the road to it are chapels
with the stations represented in groups of figures as large as life,
well executed; only two or three are complete. The situation here
again is admirable. The house and church not remarkable. I was well
received for England. Coming down, which I did after the rest, I
visited a pretty Capuchin convent, half-way up, of fifteen friars,
and had a good reception (promise to write to the other houses).
After dinner at 2 we set off for Simplon, which we reached after 8.
The _voiturier_ (coachman), to spare his horses, put us on
post-horses at his own expense. The road on the Piedmontese side is
sadly dilapidated. It was broken down (by water, as it seems) six
years ago, and the King of Sardinia will not have his part repaired,
to make people go by Mount Cenis and Turin. Put up at the Simplon
Inn.

Saturday, Sept. 21. St. Matthew.--I said mass at 7, spoke to the
curé after, who promised for England. We started at 8; we still had
two hours going up the hill. {330} About the summit is the Hospice
de St. Bernard, begun by Bonaparte. I remember it in an unfinished
state. It now contains four or five priests, and some brothers. We
stopped and saw the Prior, M. Barras, who promised kindly to
recommend England to the mother house. Phillipps bought a puppy of
the famous breed, three months old, who was added to our company in
the carriage. We reached Brigy between 12 and 1. I went out before
dinner, and saw the Superior of the Jesuits' College here, who is a
nice old man, and received us very kindly. I hurried away quickly,
thinking to return again after dinner, but the dinner was long after
time, and we had at once to set off for Turtinan, which we reached
at 6½. We went out before tea to see a waterfall: it was a dark, wet
walk, for rain was beginning.

Sunday, Sept. 22.--I said mass at 5. Soon after 6 we set off for
Sion. Arrived at 10, and found a grand military pontifical high mass
begun in the cathedral. I never heard drums and cannon and the word
of command in a mass before. The music was not military, but noisy
figured. The occasion of the solemn mass was the feast of St.
Maurice, patron of the Valais. After mass the Bishop walked with a
great procession about the town, with a feretrum, with relics of St.
Maurice. The chief part are at the town of the name, which we are to
pass to-morrow. The procession had an excellent effect. I went then
to the Jesuits' College, and spoke to the Rector, who told me the
first I had heard of the attempt at revolution in the month of May
here, which was defeated in a gallant style by the inhabitants of
the Valais arming to the number of 10,000, from a population of
70,000, under an old French officer, _i.e._, a Swiss, trained in the
French army, who repelled the party of the Jeune Suisse, who
otherwise would have overturned religious order, and perhaps, as he
said, have massacred all the religious. Young Bodenham was in their
house when the danger threatened. The Rector was very kind, but did
not promise much. I went then to dine at a _table d'hôte_, but soon
got off, and went to the Bishop lately consecrated, who came from
table to speak with me. He was educated at the Collegio Germanico;
knew Baldacconi and Father Daniel. {331} He promised his help. I
then went to a Capuchin convent outside the town. The guardian, a
young man, was rather cold, but said meanwhile that he always prayed
for England, as ordered in the Confrérie de l'Immaculé Coeur. Then
to a convent of Ursulines, close to the Bishop's; eleven nuns (well
received); then in a hurry to an hospital outside the town on the
other side, with eight nuns. The director gave me one of my most
favourable receptions, and promised that the nuns should change
their day of communion from Friday to Thursday to meet my wishes. We
set off at 2 for Martigny, which we reached at 5½. It has a
different look from 1819, the year after the inundation. I called on
the curé, who is one of the monks of Grand St. Bernard, with the
white linen scapular to represent the surplice, which they always
wear as canons regular of St. Augustine, to which they belong. He
was very good about England. From thence, I went to an hospital kept
by six French nuns, to receive poor travellers, female St.
Bernardites. The Superioress was very agreeable and zealous. They
are going directly to France to make their retreat with 600 other
nuns, assembled under the Bishop of Belley. She promised to get him
to recommend it to them all. I came back to tea after a happy,
successful day (Hôtel de la Cigne). Alpine strawberries at tea.

Monday, September 23.--I said mass at 6. Came away, fearing it would
be too late, without saying farewell to the Prior, which was
mortifying, as there was time enough. We went to dine at St.
Gingolph, beautifully placed on the bank of the Lake of Geneva. On
the way we stopped at St. Maurice, where we saw in the church the
rich shrine of St. Maurice, containing his body, and several others;
two of the sons of Sigismund, King of Burgundy, who did penance
here, after putting them to death. In the abbey, which is of the
Canons Regular of St. Augustine, I saw the superior, who is a bishop
_in partibus_; he spoke very kindly about England. I also met a nun
there of a convent of Sisters of Charity, who promised for Thursdays
at St. Gingolph. I went to the curé, where the Vicar introduced me
to several priests dining with him, who became greatly interested,
and {332} promised to speak to the Bishop of Annecy, and to their
_confrères_ at Thonon, where we came to sleep. I called on the curé,
who promised, but I could not quite satisfy myself about him; but
was quite satisfied with the brothers of the Christian Doctrine;
there are eight. The Superior promised well, and sent two brothers
home with me to the inn. The names of the priests at St. Gingolph
were:--M. Veuillet, Curé de Désingy; M. Maitre, Curé de Novel; M. La
Croix, Vicaire de Chilly; and M. Pollien, Vicaire de St. Gingolph.
The first most interesting: the last extremely tall.

Tuesday, Sept. 24. B.M.V. di Mercede.--At 5½ I went to the Convent
of the Visitation, where there are thirty-four nuns, who have
recovered their house after the Revolution. The Superioress received
me most kindly, and promised all. I then went to the Sisters of
Charity, who have two houses--a _pensionnat_ and an hospital. The
Superioress was not up. I left my card with a lay sister. I then
went and said mass at the parish church. The Phillippses went to
communion. It was at the altar of St. Francis of Sales, in this, the
first church which he (or any other one) regained from the
Calvinists--St. Hippolyte. I offered the mass for the recovery of
our dear cathedrals. The curé spoke to me again, and much more
zealously promised all for Thonon, M. De la Millière. We ought to
have gone to the Château d'Allinges, where St. Francis lodged when
he began the holy work. The chapel has been wonderfully preserved,
and lately reopened, Sept. 14, 1836. On our way to Geneva, where we
arrived at 12½, we read some of the account of his mission. We came
to the Hotel de Bergues, a new grand house in a new part of the
town, built out on the lake about 1834. I took a carriage to
Plainpalais, and brought back my good friend l'Abbé de Baudry. I
dined after at the _table d'hôte_. He is a tall, venerable old man,
dressed in his cassock, as all the priests are. His account of
things here was better than I thought. We set off at 3½, and could
not get farther than Nyon, where Phillipps and I went to see the
curé and his church, all new. There was no mission here till 1831.
We interested him for England, I hope. The hotel is de la Couronne.
In {333} every room, as at Geneva, is a New Testament of the Geneva
Bible Society.

Wednesday, Sept. 25.--I went at 5 to say mass at the new church; the
curé, M. Rossiaud, got up to serve it, and came with me to see us
off. We went up the Jura; but the grand view of Mont Blanc was
clouded, so we have but once seen it dimly. Yesterday evening we had
a troublesome sorting of all our baggage at Les Rousses. We dined at
St. Laurent. I went to the curé, M. Gottez, who spoke painfully of
the state of France (I think too much so), but brightened up when we
were about England. We went on to Champagnole, at the Hôtel de la
Poste, a nice little inn. Phillipps and I went to the church; and I
called and saw the curé, like Dr. Rock in looks. He accepted my
appeal agreeably.

Thursday, Sept. 26.--I got to say mass at the parish church, at 5.
The curé, M. Patit, and the vicaire, M. Bouvet, were both up, and
the latter walked back with me to the inn, la Poste. We started at
6½; dined at 1 at l'Hôtel de France, at Dole: we got there at 12. I
went out and saw a father at the Jesuits', who received me very
agreeably; and then a nun at the Visitation Convent. The Jesuit
promised for all the convents himself. The Prince and Princess Doria
were come to the inn, on their way to Italy. When we came back, I
went to see them after our dinner. We went on through Auxonne, where
Phillipps and I went to see the church,--_diligence_ to Dijon.
Arrived at the Hôtel de la Cloche at 7½. I went out to see the
Bishop, but he was out. I called at the Séminaire, and saw the
Superior and others, who were very kind, and spoke of Brother Luke
asking them; then back to supper; after which I went again to the
évêché, and waited in the porter's lodge, talking to a nice old man
of eighty about the Revolution, &c., till the Bishop came in. He,
Monseigneur Rivet, promised his help very graciously. I got home at
10, having also tried in vain to get at the sacristan for mass
tomorrow.

Friday, Sept. 27.--I went out at ten minutes to 4, to try once more
the sacristan's bell, but no answer, and so I had {334} to come back
and give up mass, as we were to start at 5. We took provisions in
the carriage, and we had no mind to stop all day, till at 7½ we
reached St. Florentin, a town of 2,400 people, in the diocese of
Sens. The weather was beautiful, and we admired the high cultivation
and seeming prosperity of the country. We passed a fine château at
Aucy le Franc, of the Duce or Marquis de Clermont-Tonnerre. At St.
Florentin I went out and saw the curé and the sacristan, to provide
better for mass to-morrow than today. Hôtel de la Poste.

Saturday, Sept. 28.--Got up about 3. At a quarter to 4 I went to the
sacristan, and with him to the church, and said mass; a pretty
little Gothic church. We set off at a quarter to 5, with provisions
again, for Paris, which we entered about 11 at night. We stopped at
Sens to see the cathedral. I first went to the archévêché, and was
most graciously received by the Archbishop, Monseigneur Mellon
Jolly, a young man translated here from Séez last March. He said he
had introduced prayers for England at Séez, and would begin again
now. He took me into the cathedral, and left me to see the trésor,
where the Phillippses already were. The most precious relic was of
the true cross, as the sacristan said, the largest in the world; but
he could not know of Rome and Jerusalem. It was given by
Charlemagne. There are two pieces, placed in a cross under crystal;
I should say the upright piece of nine or ten inches, the transverse
of four or five, well polished. What was perhaps most interesting to
us was the case containing St. Thomas of Canterbury's chasuble, alb
with apparel, stole, &c., from which the late Archbishop separated
what he gave to Dr. Wiseman. There is also an arm of St. Lupus, a
case of St. Gregory's relics, from which some have been begged for
Rome. We stopped again at Fontainebleau, and took a rapid view of
the palace. The servant who led said it was the finest in the world.
I think he must be partial, as the sacristan this morning about the
relic of the cross. Louis-Philippe has done a good deal here; spent
800,000 fr. in ornamenting one room. I was much pleased with the
gallery with pictures of the history of France. This is the {335}
finest matter for a palace. There was much very indecent. After this
it began to rain till we got to Paris. We got rooms at the Hôtel de
l'Europe, just opposite the gardens of the Tuileries. Nothing could
be better.

Sunday, Sept. 29.--I went at 7½ to say mass at the Madeleine, that
glorious church for its style. Then home to breakfast, and then,
with the rest, to high mass at Notre-Dame; one of the grandest plain
chant masses I ever was at. There I met Mr. Moore, of Birmingham;
and I went with him after, in his hackney-coach, on a few errands,
and at last to the English convent, from whence he takes one of the
Misses Bingham to the convent at Handsworth. Then I went again to
Notre-Dame, and very much to my loss: I came too late for vespers.
After, I went to St. Jacques, but did not find the Curé de Noirlieu,
nor his vicaire. I came back by the omnibus to dine at the
_restaurant_, and directly we went to Notre-Dame des Victoires,
where we assisted at the service, from 7 to 20 minutes to 10. It was
wonderful to see the attention of the people all this time. The old
curé, after the sermon by another priest, gave the _annonces_ in an
interesting way. We heard him recommend England. I went in to ask
him.

Monday, Sept. 30.--I said mass at the Madeleine. After breakfast, I
went to Mr. Blount, the banker, who told me that Heneage was to be
in Paris on Thursday, the very day we go away. Then to the post, and
find no letters; then by omnibus to St. Sulpice (where the retreat
of the clergy begins to-day), to see the Archbishop. I was
introduced to him in a room, where he was among several priests. I
got on but poorly. He was gracious, but made little of the affair.
The secretary of Mgr. Quelin was there. He testified to his
recommending the thing before, but no effect followed. This was
damping enough, though I knew something to the contrary. The
Archbishop sent me to M. Vollemaux (Mr. Hand's friend), who conducts
the retreat, and he promised to recommend England this evening. So
the point is gained; though, judging from the tone in which he spoke
of England, it is not so promising a prospect as some. But among 600
priests some will be inspired, let {336} him speak as he may. I then
went to the rue de Chaillot, to seek Captain Cooke, to know about
John Beaumont. Had to come back empty, and stopped at home, not very
well, till 5½, when Phillippses came in from St. Denis to dinner.
After dinner Mr. Gordon, of the _Univers_, came to tea, and stopped
till 10 nearly.

Tuesday, Oct. 1.--I went to say mass at Notre-Dame des Victoires, in
les Petits Pères, at 8½. I breakfasted near them, and had a talk
with Abbé Desgenettes. Then went to breakfast _à la fourchette_, at
11, with M. Noirlieu, Curé of St. Jacques, and his vicaire,
Bourjéant. The latter forced me, against my will, to have some
papers with an image and a prayer for England printed. It is the
like case with Belgium. I hope it may be well, as it certainly was
not my will, and so the denial of my will may be a blessing. We then
went to call on the nuncio, Mgr. Fornari; and then to the engravers
for this said work. Mgr. Fornari is grown very stout and unwieldy,
but was very kind and pleasing; he encouraged my pursuit and this
printing. We went home again to St. Jacques to _rédiger_ the
prayers, when again my friend would have his way against my mind in
a point or two. I came thence to the Bank, M. Blount's, then home,
and dined alone; then went to call on Captain Cooke, to ask about
John Beaumont, who, it seems, does not come to Paris at all; then
home, where I found the Phillippses going out to a spectacle, and so
I had to go off and try to stop at l'Abbé Desgenettes', who was to
come to see him, but he was already from home, and so I came back
and received his visit, when I pressed him for England, and he took
it well.

Wednesday, Oct. 2.--By desire of M. Gallard, Vicaire of the
Madeleine, expressed by M. Bourgoiner, I said mass there. After
breakfast, I called on Mrs. Heneage and her daughter, 17, rue St.
Florentin; then took omnibus to St. Denis, where I looked through
the church below ground and above. It is greatly altered since
1838--wonderful work of painting and stained glass, yet a very
little is done of what has to be done. I came back by omnibus to
Porte St. Martin; then walked home at 6. I dined with Captain
Cooke--a family dinner, purely English, as he is himself. {337} I
liked his conversation much, blunt and plain as it is. He talked of
his twenty years' service--Egypt--America. I came home at 8 to meet
MM. Noirlieu and Bourgoigne and Gordon, who came to tea and made
interesting company till 11, I think.

Thursday, Oct. 3.--Said mass at St. Roch; after, I went to the
Jesuits, Rue des Postes, and saw the Provincial, M. Boulanger; then
to the Sisters of Charity, Rue de Bac; the Sacré Coeur, where Mad.
de Gramont gave me a most amiable reception; the Lazarists, Rue de
Sevres; then I tried to see one of the Society of St. Vincent de
Paul, and went with a zealous young clerk from their office, 37, Rue
de Seine, St. Germain, to seek an _avocat_ at the Palais de Justice.
I was handing about the engravings, which were ordered on Tuesday,
and which are well received. The sister, deputed to see me at the
Sisters of Charity, alone, was cold. She was the same as six years
ago, when she was very gracious. I came home to dine at 1 alone; at
2 I went to see Heneage, just arrived at his father and mother's
from Dieppe. I sat an hour very happily with him, and came home at
the time appointed to go away, but it was deferred till to-morrow.
So I went to the chief house of the Ecoles Chrétiennes, about 126,
Rue du Faubourg St. Martin. The Superior-General was very
favourable, and promised to recommend England to his community of
300, and to the 400 houses of his order. I then took omnibus to the
Rue de Bac, and had an interesting conversation with Abbé Dubois,
now eighty years old. Ever since 1838, he prays for England every
day in the mass. He is in retreat. He receives a pension of £100 a
year from England. I went again and had tea with him, and so
finished the day happily.

Friday, Oct. 4.--Mass at St. Roch. We started for Boulogne at 9½. We
stopped on the way to see the Church of St. Vincent de Paul,
building in most splendid style, in form of a basilica inside, but
with a portico without. Then I stopped at St. Denis, and walked
round it again; saw in addition the winter choir most richly
adorned. _Mem._--The twelve Apostles holding the consecration
crosses round the walls. We went on to dine at Beauvais. We went,
when {338} it was growing dark, to take a look at the cathedral. The
choir alone complete--the finest in the world. We said that the
French, with their present zeal and prosperity, would finish this
cathedral if the peace lasts ten more years. I left them in the
church, and went to see the Bishop. He was at dinner, but came out
and introduced me to the party, namely, the directors of the
Seminary (among them my acquaintance, M. Bareau), and some Jesuits.
He was most kind and favourable, and promised before them all that
he would say mass for England once a week for a year. The others all
sympathised. After this beautiful incident, I came home, and we
dined at the Écu de France. We afterwards drove on to Grandvilliers;
arrived at 11. The King of the French dined there yesterday; the
landlady was in raptures at it; there was the Queen, and in all
twenty-six, at table.

Saturday, Oct. 5.--As they failed to awake me, I missed saying mass.
We set off at 6½, and went, almost without a stop, dining in the
carriage (135 kilometres, about 85 miles), to Boulogne, where we
stopped at the Hôtel des Bains. I went directly to see the Grand
Doyen, who was very kind. Returning, I found Mr. Digby with them.
Louis-Philippe's birthday--71 years old.

Sunday, October 6.--I said mass at 8½; got back to breakfast, and
then we went together to the high mass, sung by Dr. Walsh, Bishop of
Halifax. He had no mitre. After this, Mrs. Canning met me in the
sacristy, and we went to her house, No. 5, Rue de Doyen. At 2 we
walked to the Haute Ville, where we visited the Visitation Nuns in
their grand new house, twenty-seven in number, and the Ursulines,
fifty-two in number; then to M. Haffreingue. At 6 I went to dine
with the Digbys; saw Mrs. Digby for the first time. The Phillippses
were there, and four or five more. I walked back with the Doyen in
heavy rain at 10, and entered my lodgings with L'Abbé Daniel, 73,
Grande Rue.

Monday, October 7.--I went with Mrs. Canning to the Visitation
Convent, and said the community mass at 9. After it we breakfasted
in the parlour at 11. M. Haffreingue came in with the Phillippses,
who had breakfasted {339} with him, and the Superioress, an English
lady of the name of Muller, and other nuns, showed us round the
house, which is most stately and beautiful, though it would have
been wonderfully better had the money been spent on Gothic work.
Mrs. Canning and I left at 12½, and called on Mr. Errington. We came
down to dine at 2. The Doyen and M. Daniel came. The Bishop also
came to luncheon at 8. I went up to the Haute Ville, and first
called on M. Gillies, a Scotch gentleman, converted last year; then
went to Digby's for the evening. Besides Phillippses, &c., I saw
Nicholas Ball. Came back at 10½.

Tuesday, October 8.--Said mass at 7½; then went to breakfast with
Mrs. Canning. About 11 we set off for the Haute Ville, and went once
more to the Visitation Convent, where we were allowed to see the
whole community through their grate for three quarters of an hour,
that I might do my best to recommend England, which I tried to do.
Then I visited M. Gillies, and got down to dinner at 2¼. M. Le
Cointe, M. Le Roy, and M. Daniel, dined with us. After dinner we
went out and visited, first, the Soeurs Grises, an austere convent
of poor nuns, who teach school. They have 900 girls under care. The
Superioress promised for all; if she fulfils it, it is a fine gain.
Then to the Ecoles Chrétiennes. They are seventeen brothers,
teaching 1,100 boys in different schools. They were very
encouraging; promised for themselves and the boys. After an hour's
office and tea, I went to the Haute Ville to see Phillipps and his
party at Digby's for the last time, as they go to-morrow. Met Mr. W.
Jones and wife, and others. Then at 9 I went to visit Judge Ball at
the Hôtel de Londres. The Bishop and others were there. The family
was Mr. Ball, Nicholas, and Alexander, and a daughter.

Wednesday, October 9.--I said mass at the Ursulines at 7½, first
addressing them on England for a quarter of an hour. Then
breakfasted, during which six English nuns were in attendance, and
Miss Swift. Then my cousin and I walked to the Annonciades, when we
could not see the Superioress; then to the Dames de Notre-Dame du
bon Secours (_gardes malades_, seventeen nuns). Then in the Basse
Ville {340} to the Hospitalieres (thirteen nuns); these promised
well. Then I went home to office till dinner at 2. Mrs. Canning and
M. Tallier, Curé de Nemfchatel, who takes care of them, came over to
meet me. At 4 M. Thillay came. These two promised to do all they
could. At 5 Mrs. C. and I walked to the steamboat office,
post-office, &c. Came back to office and tea. Then I went up to
change my quarters, and pass some days at the college with M.
Haffreingue. I first called and saw Mrs. Gillies. I sat some time
with M. Haffreingue, and to bed at 10.

Thursday, October 10.--Said mass at ¼ to 8. At 10 Dr. Walsh came up
and sung mass _de Spiritu Sancto_, for the opening of studies. The
boys came back yesterday. I assisted him as Assistant Deacon. At 1½
we dined. The Bishop, M. O'Reilly, and a M. Cardham, a London
convert, were all the strangers. The rest were the professors of the
house. After dinner we had toasts, cheers, and speeches, on England,
Mr. O'Reilly leading it. At 10, I went and saw Abbate Melia at Mrs.
Errington's. He is going to replace Baldacconi in London. Then to
Mrs. Canning's to tea. Returned for night prayers at 7½. Supper
comes after. I talked to M. Haffreingue about architecture.

Friday, October 11.--I said mass at 7½ in the chapel of Notre-Dame
de Boulogne; breakfasted with M. Haffreingue. At 10 I called on
Digby, then Mrs. Canning, and Mrs. Gillies. I dined in the
Infirmary, to eat meat with M. Grettan, the English teacher, and
little Rosamel, grandson of a great admiral. M. Haffreingue and I
took a walk, and went through the crypt of the cathedral. Night
prayers and supper in the refectory at 7½. After it, M. Haffreingue
and I went to call on Mrs. Muller and Digby.

Saturday, October 12.--Said mass in the Chapelle de Notre-Dame. Miss
Muller breakfasted with us. She is the great support of M.
Haffreingue's great work of building the cathedral, having begged
for it for years past. I asked her to have prayers made for England,
as M. Haffreingue announces the cathedral to be undertaken mainly
for that enterprise. She promised to interest the poor. I thought of
my sermon, and did other things till near 12. When I {341} went out,
called on Mr. Stewart, a Scotch pastrycook, lately converted and
received by Sisk. At 1, I dined (_gras_) with Mrs. Canning. After,
called on Lady Burke and her two daughters, near the Porte. Came
back after; walked an hour in the Grande Salle with Haffreingue,
talking over projects for England and France.

Sunday, October 13.--Got up after 7, and sung high mass in the
chapel at 9. After it I went to Mrs. Canning's till dinner time,
when I returned and dined in the refectory. The afternoon was mostly
preparing my sermon, which I preached on the conversion of England
at the _salut_ at 7. The boys clapped their hands to my surprise
when I entered the refectory to supper; in token of acceptance, I
hope. I got on better than I could have thought, and was not a bit
tired. After supper I went with M. Haffreingue and M. Le Roy; a
farewell visit to Digby. It blows hard, and I fear it will be a bad
passage to-morrow, or none at all.

Monday, October 14.--The Abbate Melia, Dr. Baldacconi's intended
successor, came to sing songs, and breakfast at the college, and
went down with me to the port. Mr. Bodenham came with us, too. We
waited from 9 till 10.20 before they set off. They seemed to fear
the wind. When we got out it was a most stormy passage to
Folkestone, of three hours. I stood up all the way, holding on,
talking with M. Crawley, of the Hotel, Albemarle Street, except we
were nearly sick. We swung through the narrow walk of Folkestone
Harbour, and were at once smooth, and soon on England's soil. It was
a long work passing the Custom House, but we got off by a train at
3.49. I set Mr. Melia down at Pagliano's, where we found Dr. Walsh
(of Halifax), and had tea. Sisk and Mgr. Eyre came in by good
fortune, and I went with them home to their quarters at the Chelsea
chapel-house.

Tuesday, October 15.--Said mass at 8½. Then went to try Dr.
Chambers, who is out of town. Then to Spence House, and saw
Appleyard. By his advice, I determined to go to Windsor to-day, the
Queen being just now away. I called on Father Lithgoe, and attended
a meeting of ladies at Sisk's, then off by the Great Western Railway
to Slough, {342} and so to Windsor. I saw Caroline at Lady Grant's,
where she lodges, close to the Castle, where I dined at 8, first
having seen Sarah at the Castle, and the Prince of Wales, with whom
she was playing. He is a weakly-looking child of four, but noble and
clever looking. He behaved prettily to us all in going off to bed.

Wednesday, October 16.--After sleeping at the Castle Inn, I walked
to the Catholic chapel at Chrom, attended last Sunday by
Louis-Philippe, who charmed them all. I said mass, and then Mr.
Wilson took me in a gig a mile on to call on Mr. Riley, at Forest
Hill. He was out. I thence called to Windsor, and was with Sarah
from 12 to 1½, while the children were asleep. Then went down to
Eton, called on Mr. Coleridge, then walked about the well-known
places, the chapel, the cloisters, where I left a card on Wilder,
now a fellow. I went and mused over the place which once was
Godley's, but all is levelled. I stood by the oak-tree there, saw
the boys assembling for 3 o'clock school, and talked to some. I
brought back many a scene thirty years and more ago. At 3, started
back and dined with Sisk. After dinner we went to see Mrs. Bagshawe
and Mrs. Jauch back in an omnibus.

Thursday, October 17.--Mass at 8½. Went to see Dr. Watson, whom I
found to be my former friend, fellow of St. John's. It was a good
account of me, thank God. Then to Mr. Nerincx, at Somers Town. Then
to Mr. Morel, at Hampstead, and Mrs. Sankey, near him; then called
at the Sardinian Chapel, and home to dine, and sit the evening with
Sisk.

Friday, October 18.

(_This journal breaks off here, and is not resumed._)

{343}