Chapter XIII: His Tour On The Continent In 1844 (2)

Friday, Aug. 16.--Mass at the cathedral at 11. We went with Mr.
Dugdale to the Pinacotheke, a grand building of this king,
containing the vast collection of pictures which I saw with Lefevre
at Schlussheim in 1820. What struck me most was the gallery on one
side of the building, ornamented like Raphael's, in the Vatican. We
dined at two; then went to see the new palace, which is opened at
times regularly to all visitors. We went among a party of all sorts.
I was recognised by Lady Lowther--that was, at least. This was from
Lowther Castle, 1816. In the palace, the floors are beautiful
wood-work, inlaid. Some rooms have fine pictures of the former
German history, of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, Rodolph of Hapsburg, &c.
The hall of audience is surrounded with striking colossal statues of
ancient dukes of Bavaria. We cannot say much for the two rooms of
Bavarian beauties; the king's fondness for them is not edifying,
they say. From the palace we went to the studios; at half-past 7
went to tea at Dr. Döllinger's, and met almost all whom we visited
yesterday, and, besides, Mr. Windischmann, canon of the cathedral. I
got a long conversation with him in English. He became very zealous
for promoting the prayers for England. There was there Mr. Raby, of
Leicester, who was at Munich with his mother; his sister is become a
nun at Nymphenburg.

Saturday, Aug. 17.--Said mass at the cathedral at 8½. After
breakfast, I visited Mr. and Mrs. Farrell and their family, who are
in this hotel. He is uncle to John Farrell. She said she had seen me
at Leamington with Mr. Martyn. Then Count de Senufft Pilsach,
Austrian ambassador, to whom Mr. Phillipps brought a note from
Father Lythgoe, called. We then walked to the palace, and saw the
rich chapel, in which many relics are kept in cases of gold and
silver, with pearls and jewels, some carved by Benvenuto Cellini;
the right hand {304} of St. John Baptist and St. Chrysostom among
them, and some earth stained with the blood of Our Lord. A little
triptic used on the scaffold by Mary Queen of Scots. We then went to
the palace of the Duc de Leuchtenberg, son of Eugene Beauharnais.
One room full of modern paintings, and another much larger, with a
very choice collection of the Italian and Flemish schools, struck
me. Dr. Döllinger dined with us, and then took us to the Public
Library, a magnificent building, calculated for 1,000,000 volumes,
and containing now 500,000, lately built by Ludwig I. We stayed a
long time looking about it, and then went on to the University,
another new building, very splendid. Dr. Döllinger is rector this
next year. The library here is of 200,000 vols.; he is the chief
librarian of it. We returned at 8, looking in, _en passant_, to the
Ludwig Kirche. A beautiful sunset.

Sunday, August 18.--I went by invitation to say mass at the Auer
Kirche, _i.e._, the new Gothic church in the suburb Au. Trusting to
the fine sunset of last night, I took no umbrella, and very nearly
got a wetting before I got home. At 9, Mr. Schlager called on me. He
is studying the law, and looks so smart that I did not of myself
recognize him. We went to high mass at the Theatine church. At 12, I
went with Mr. Windischmann, to be presented to the Nuncio, Mgr.
Vichi, to plead for England. I could not do much, as other visitors
came in. After dinner, we went to seek vespers unsuccessfully at the
Theatine church. At 5, we took a carriage, and went to the Sisters
of Charity, where we got on badly for want of German, and saw
nothing but the church, where service was going on. We then went to
the public cemetery, near it. It is in the style of Père la Chaise,
but inferior. What is remarkable is the place where the bodies newly
dead are exposed for three days before burial. We saw several behind
glass windows, dressed out and adorned with flowers. After coming
home, I went at 7½ to Professor Görres's. He has open house for the
circle of his friends every Sunday evening. Dr. Döllinger wished us
all to go, but Phillipps thought it hardly proper without an
invitation. There were twelve at supper; among them Dr. {305}
Döllinger, Phillipps, Moy. The party was very agreeable, though I
knew nothing of the German conversation, except what Dr. Döllinger
translated to me. I came home at half-past 10.

Monday, August 19.--Said mass at the cathedral. Mrs. Dugdale came
after breakfast, and went with us to the Glyptotheke, where are some
fine pieces of ancient sculpture. I suppose the AEgina marbles are
among the most valued. They are of an earlier style than the perfect
models of Greek sculpture, finely designed but stiff. The whole
thing is too heathenish and so immodest. It is a mystery to me how
all these sights are consistent with Catholic principle, especially
the Venuses and Adonises by Christian masters, like Canova. The
building is very noble. We went thence to what was far more
satisfactory, the Basilica, built on the plan of the old church of
St. Paul, at Rome, 300 feet long, with two ranges of glorious holy
pictures, one range being the whole history of our English St.
Boniface. I hope this is there as a memorial of what Germany owes to
England, and as an excitement to pray for us. I came back to receive
Mr. Schlager to dine with me at the _table d'hôte_. Phillipps dined
at Mr. Rio's, where I joined them at 3, having first gone with Mr.
Schlager to his lodgings. Rio talked splendidly about England, and
Dr. Döllinger promised to write articles to call to prayer for it. I
came home at 5, said office in the cathedral, and at 7½ we went to
supper with Dr. and Mrs. Phillipps, where we met all the circle, the
Görreses, Windischman, Döllinger, Rios, Mrs. Raby, Mrs. Dugdale, &c.

Tuesday, August 20. St. Bernard.--Mass at the cathedral at 10. I
took a carriage and went with Mrs. Dugdale and Mrs. Raby to
Nymphenburg, where is the principal convent of the English nuns, of
which I saw a house at Augsburg. There are ten houses in Bavaria;
Mrs. Raby's daughter is a novice there. We stopped a good while, and
I hope a good step was taken in my work. Mr. Dugdale promises to
follow up ardently the begging prayers. I came home before 2, and
stayed at home till 5, when we went with the two boys to a grand
dinner with le Comte de Zeuft, {306} the Austrian ambassador. There
were twenty at table: the Nuncio, Mr. Aebel, minister of the
interior, the chief Catholic physician, a Polish Countess Kitzka,
and all our friends the Professors were there. I sat between Dr.
Phillipps and Windischman. We stayed till near 10. The Comte de
Zeuft promised great help for England. It is my first opening in
Austria. Mrs. Aebel assured me that the Government would be well
pleased with whatever was done in this way, which is a great point
secured. I also had an interesting talk on the subject with the
Countess Kitzka, who proposed prayer for Poland also on Saturdays.
This was, in short, a productive evening.

Wednesday, August 21.--Mass at the cathedral. I walked with Mr.
Dugdale to the convent of Sisters of Providence joining the great
hospital we failed in entering on Sunday. We got one nun who spoke a
little French to show us over the hospital, but we made little of
gaining prayers. I found palpitations coming from the walk, and so I
came home and stayed till I went with Phillipps to dine at 4 with
the Nuncio. The chief guests were Comte de Zeuft and Baron Frujberg,
_conseilleur d'état_, and twelve or fourteen more. The Nuncio took
charge of the little prayer for England adopted by the Belgian
bishops, and promised to get ample indulgences at Rome for the
masses, communions, and prayers for England. We came home and took
Mrs. Phillipps to tea at Dr. Döllinger's, Baron Frujberg, Rio,
Hüffler, the historian of the German popes of the 11th century.

Thursday, August 22.--Mass at 8. I stayed at home writing to Dr.
Wiseman from 11 to 12; then went with Dr. Döllinger to be presented
to Madame di Frujberg, and her sister Amelia de Mongeras. Talked
about England and prayers. At home I found Comte de Zeuft and the
Nuncio paying a visit. Then dinner at 2½. Mr. Windischman took me to
see the Archbishop, 84 years old. He has his intellect quite sound,
and was favourable to the prayers, but not very zealous. I came home
and stayed till 7, writing to Mrs. Beaumont and Mrs. Canning, saying
office, &c. At 7 Mr. and Mrs. Rio and two children, Dr. Phillipps,
{307} Döllinger, and Windischman came to tea and supper, so a
parting visit. Little Miss Rio got sick with the smoke in the salon.

Friday, August 23.--Mass at 7½ in the cathedral for the last time.
After breakfast a visit from Mr. Dugdale and old Görres, and a talk
with Mr. Woodwich, a very nice young Anglican, whom Phillipps met at
Cologne, and came yesterday to Munich. The horses came for our
departure at 11, but we did not start till ¼ to 1. I sat in the
carriage saying office. We had a pretty journey, approaching a line
of fine mountains. We reached a town called Tegern See, and we put
up at Le Troitteur Hof. When we came to dine, we found ourselves
worse off than we have yet been. No bread without aniseed, and
hardly enough to eat for all but me, who took meat. However, this is
an interesting spot. Out of my window I have a sweet view of the
lake and mountains opposite, with a bright moon upon them.

Saturday, August 24.--I went before 7 to find the old priest to say
mass. The church is a handsome one attached to a large building
which once was a Benedictine convent, but was turned by the old
king, my former acquaintance, into a country palace. Prince Charles
lives here now. The old priest was one of the monks. There are four
now alive out of forty-three. We started at 9, and went through
beautiful mountain scenery, especially that part of the road which
lies along the bank of Achensee, a beautiful blue lake. We dined at
about 2, at Achenthal, just before coming to the lake. We were
delayed by a spring breaking, and only reached Schwartz, a town of
4,500 people. The inn La Poète is kept by Anthony Reiner, one of a
family of three men and a sister, who about 1830 were 2½ years in
England, singing Tyrolese songs, and made £4,000. Mrs. Ambrose heard
them at Sir Thomas Acland's. We had tea in the billiard-room, and
saw some beautiful play.

Sunday, Aug. 25.--I said mass at 6½, at the Franciscan church. In
the convent are twenty-one priests and twenty-five students, besides
lay brothers. I recommended England and was kindly heard. After
breakfast we went together to the parish church; at 8 a sermon
begins--we heard the end of it, preached by a Franciscan. Mass
follows the {308} sermon. The style of music, both here and in the
Franciscan church, where I heard part of the high mass, is high
figured. We set off for Innspruck after. It was raining all the way.
We arrived at 2 at the Golden Sun (die goldene Sonne), in a fine
wide street. We had dinner, during which we were surprised and
pleased by a visit from Mrs. Amherst and Mary. She has a house in
this street, and saw us pass by. Three daughters are with her. Soon
after we went to see the Franciscan church, in which is the famous
monument of Maximilian, and round it bronze figures of illustrious
personages, and on the side a marble monument of Hoffa. They are not
all saints, and it is thought to be an unbecoming ornament to a
church. They certainly cause distractions by the number of people
who come to see the sculpture, which makes this small church almost
like a Glyptotheke. After this, Mrs. Amherst took me to the
Redemptorists, where Father Prost talks English, and received me
most cordially, and presented me to the Rector. I then went to the
Franciscan convent, where, as at Munich, I saw the fathers at
supper, and recommended England to the Provincial, who promised to
convey my wishes to the 300 subjects of the 10 houses of his
province. In this little house there are eight priests. He sent a
man to take me to the Decanus, living near the parish church, to ask
for leave to hear confessions to-morrow. He was a most amiable, kind
old man, and promised to speak for me to all the clergy. I went to
meet our party at tea with the Amhersts at 7, and had a very
pleasant evening. Home at 9¼.

Monday, Aug. 26th.--Father Prost gave himself to me all to-day. I
went to say mass at the Redemptorist church; breakfasted there; then
went out with him to the hospital of the Sisters of Charity, where
there are 15 nuns, and it is the mother house of about eight houses
in all. They are under the direction of the Redemptorists. Then to
the Jesuits' college, where we saw the Rector; then to dine with the
Redemptorists at 12. They are about ten in number. The Rector is
most zealous for my cause. At 2 we walked out of the town to a fine
Premonstratensian {309} abbey to which belong 42 monks; but about
half are employed as coadjutors to parish priests. The Abbot
received us very kindly, and showed us all over his house, which has
a great suite of fine rooms, full of pictures of great personages.
We came back to settle for my departure to-morrow; and lastly
visited the Servites. They have a fine large house in the great
street. Their number is only fifteen. Lastly, we called on a lady
who can talk English, having learned it, where Father Prost did, in
America. I went at 6½ to tea with the Amhersts, among whom I also
found William just come. I went home to stay at the Redemptorists,
in order to be able to say mass to-morrow. The Rector and Father
Prost sat some time with me.

Tuesday, Aug. 27th.--Said mass at 3½; at 4½, Father Prost saw me in
the still-wagen, or omnibus, for Brixen. I forgot to say that
Phillipps agreed with me to meet at Caldaron on Thursday. They went
off yesterday by Landeck, Marenn, &c., for finer scenery. I took my
way to see the Bishop of Brixen. My principal companions were four
students at the Inspruck University, going out for their vacations.
They were two couples of brothers, one called Ehrhart, the other
Benz, all of Inspruck. The weather was become beautiful, and we went
through splendid scenery. We went over the Brenner mountain, and
were going till 8 o'clock at night. We stopped three times for
refreshment: at Matraey, Strarzing, and Mittewald. We came to the
Kreutz Hof--the Cross Inn--at Brixen, where I took my bed. First, I
went to see a pleasing old priest, by name Graffanara, who is
Domscholasticus here, and whom I saw by chance at Inspruck. He told
of the Bishop being gone to Botzen, and introduced me to the Decanus
and Parish Priest, to settle for mass to-morrow.

Wednesday, Aug. 28th. Great St. Augustine's.--I was up soon after 3,
and went to the Pffarr-Kirche, where I said mass at 4. The Pffarr
treated me with extraordinary respect and kindness, and came back
with me to my inn, where I started again, with the same company, to
Botzen, in another still-wagen, at 5. We followed the downward
course of a beautiful torrent, through rocks and mountains {310} all
the way, till we reached Botzen, at 12. I went to the Kaiser's
Krone, and dined at the _table d'hôte_ at 12½, next to an English
gentleman, by name Harley, who was chiefly taken up with attacks on
cookery out of England. He was a man of much information, and gave
gloomy accounts of the prospect of war with France. His father was
an admiral. I stayed at home till 4½, then went out to the Capuchins
and then to the Capellani--the Paroco being out. The chief Capellano
came back with me to the hotel, and waited till the Bishop of Brixen
came in. He had been out in the country. I was admitted to see him,
but quite disappointed in my hopes of finding help from him. He gave
me no signs of zeal, and hardly spoke of England. Perhaps it may be
for the better some way. No doubt disappointments are good for me,
and so thank God for this one. I afterwards went to the Franciscans,
where I found real sympathy in one of the fathers, with whom I
walked in the garden. This was a refreshment after the Bishop. In
the evening I had a visit from the young Baron Giovanelli, whose
father has some authority about sending people to see Maria Mörl. He
could hardly speak Italian, and though very civil, did not help me
much.

Thursday, 29th.--The good Bishop sent me to-day a present of a large
number of religious prints, with German instructions, and showed
thus his good will to me; and I hope it may be well for my cause. At
7½ I said mass in the cathedral. At 10 I went in a one-horse
carriage to Calddaron, or more rightly Caltern. I went directly to
see Father Capistrano, confessor to Maria Mörl, at a Franciscan
convent, and then dined at the White Horse inn. At 4½, according to
his direction, I went to the convent of the Tertiariae, where Maria
Mörl has been for ten years, being removed from her father's house
by the Bishop, at her own request, to avoid being seen by so many
people. I waited in the convent church till Father Capistrano, who
is a tall and venerable monk, I suppose of forty-five years old,
came to call me, with eight or nine other persons, to see the
_estatica_. (N.B. Father Capistrano told me that the Bishop of
Brixen is very deaf, and probably understood nothing of {311} what I
talked about, which explains all my disappointment.) We went into a
small room within her convent, rather darkened, where the first
sight of Maria on her knees upon her bed was most striking. She
kneels with her head and eyes fixed upwards, her hands joined before
her breast, just below the chin, and her body leaning forwards in a
position out of the centre of gravity, in which, ordinarily, no one
could continue without support. It is most moving to see her thus--I
think more so than in any of the other positions which she assumed.
This was the time when on every Thursday she goes through the
contemplation of the Agony of Our Lord; and so, soon after we came
in, she being quite unconscious of what goes on around her, began to
make signs in her throat of earnest emotion, and then, clenching her
hands together, she dropped her head over them, her long, flowing
hair being thrown forward over her face, as it were accompanying our
Lord in the commencement of His prayer in the garden; after about
five minutes thus, she suddenly bends down, placing her face between
her knees, as when our Lord was prostrate in His agony. After
another five minutes, she rises, her face again fixed with
expression of intense earnestness on heaven, and her arms extended
back downwards, as expressing perfect resignation. After five or ten
minutes thus, she returns calmly to her original attitude of prayer,
and thus remained till Father Capistrano spoke to her by name,
saying a few words almost indistinctly, and she instantly returned
to herself, reclined back on her bed, and, without exertion of
moving her limbs, appeared simply recumbent, with the bed-cover over
her whole body. I did not see her rise again, but this is done
instantly without effort, in the same way. The moment that she was
thus awakened from the ecstasy, she looked round on us all with
great good-humour, and smiled; and, being forbidden to speak, she
made many signs, asking questions of some whom she knew before. One
priest, il Conte Passi, offered her some cotton perfumed from the
body of Sta. Maria Maddalena di Pazzi; but she would not have it,
nor smell it, refusing it in a truly pleasant way. I spoke of
praying for England, and she nodded graciously, but did not take
much {312} apparent notice. I suppose she does it about nothing but
what comes by obedience. If the conversation had a pause, she
immediately became again absorbed in God till Father Capistrano
recalled her again. After a proper time, he gave us signs to retire;
on which she earnestly made signs for a cartoon-box full of holy
prints to be brought, and she began with great earnestness to turn
them over, seeming to recollect herself very intently. She then gave
me two, and afterwards another. I was struck when I saw the first
was a figure of St. George, as she had not heard my name I knew.
Afterwards, I supposed she might allude only to England, as she knew
I was English. Soon after, she fell back into ecstasy as she lay,
and we went away. I walked down to the inn with Conte Passi and a
priest of the place, who visits her nearly every day. I began a
letter, when, about 6, I was agreeably surprised by seeing Phillipps
and his party drive up. He and I went to the Franciscan convent, but
could not see Father Capistrano. Conte Passi and I slept in the same
room, and into a third bed tumbled some one else, I thought, like
the ostler, after we were in bed. I slept none the worse, and why
should I?

Friday, Aug. 30.--Said mass in the parish church at eight. Phillipps
after breakfast went and had a long conversation with Father
Capistrano, who received to-day a letter from the Bishop of Trent,
to give leave for all of us to see the _estatica_. Phillipps came
back with wonderful accounts of Father Capistrano's views of the
future in the Church. He has no bright anticipations. I wrote all
the morning, letters to Dr. Döllinger, Signor Giovanelli, and Mr.
LeSage Ten Broek. We dined at 1. At 2½ we all went to the convent
church, where, as yesterday, P. Capistrano came to take us to la
Mörl. Three o'clock, being the time of Our Lord's death, this is the
subject of her contemplation at that time every Friday. Soon after
we came in, from the attitude of prayer in which we found her as
yesterday; she again clasped her hands, and, looking up with an
expression of suffering, she continued for some time to make a sort
of sobbing noise, and stertation, as I have seen people dying of
apoplexy; this grew more painful till, exactly at {313} three, she
dropped her head forward, and her hands yet clasped hung down before
her and so she remained quite motionless, still leaning forward
beyond the perpendicular, "_inclinato capite emisit spiritum_." This
continued till, at one of those almost inaudible suggestions of the
confessor, she fell back on the bed, as yesterday, but still in
ecstasy, and extended her hands in the form of a crucifix. The
fingers were guttered over the palm of the hands, but yet we saw
plainly in the palm the sacred stigma. I saw it yesterday outside
both her hands, quite plainly, as she was distributing the prints.
The marks are not as of an open wound, but red cicatrices like those
represented in pictures of Our Saviour when risen from the dead.
Father Capistrano said that she eats a little bread and fruit
occasionally, not every day; she communicates three or four times a
week; she sleeps generally in the night, I understood, but her
spirit still continues in a less degree of contemplation. She had a
younger sister with her in the convent, to wait on her. The Emperor
allows her 400 florins a year. On more solemn feasts, the ecstasy is
more intense, and she then appears for a time raised above the bed,
touching it only with the tips of her feet. The priest whom I saw
yesterday says that he has himself passed his hand at those times
under her knees without touching them. It is a rule that no money is
given by visitors either to her or the convent. We went away, and
prepared for our departure about 4. I engaged a small one-horse
carriage to go to _Egna_ in Italian, in German _Neumarkt_, intending
to see the _Addolorata_, and to meet the Phillippses again at
Venice. I began to have a distaste to the rude-looking driver, at
the first sight, still more, when I found that the carriage belonged
to a priest who had come from Egna this morning. I made it straight
for time by taking him with me. A second nuisance was, finding, when
I set off, that Phillipps had to go to the same place, as his first
stage towards Trent. In a narrow road down the hill, out of Caldaro,
we met an immense number of carts, loaded with hay, and drawn by
oxen, from eighty to a hundred, which was a good delay, and
Phillipps's carriage got terribly scratched in passing one. At {314}
Egna, I put up at the Krono. I went out to see a priest, who took me
to the Franciscans about saying mass tomorrow. I preached England.

Saturday, Aug. 31.--I fell into the hands of the sulky driver of
yesterday, who undertook to find me a mule to go over the mountains
at once to Capriana, but he came last night to say none was to be
found; I heard before that there was danger of this in harvest time.
I therefore first said mass at the Franciscans', at 3 o'clock,
doubtful whether it was not uncanonically early, and at 4 went with
my friend driving me, with one horse on the left of the pole, to
Cavallesi, a small town in the mountains, which we reached at 8
o'clock. There I saw the physician of Dominica Lazzari, whom Count
Passi told me to go to. He was very civil, and recommended me a
pleasant guide, who at 9 set off, walking by the pony which I rode
to Cavallesi. The day was beautiful, and not too hot for me, though
it was for him on foot. It was a most interesting, picturesque ride
of 2¼ hours, reminding me of my Sicilian and other rides long since,
and I was surprised how this seemed to agree with me now. Capriana
is a little very poor village, occupying a spot on an open space,
high among the mountains. The very first cottage in the body of the
town, and one of the poorest, is where this wonderful being spends
her suffering days. The Medico Yoris had written me a note to the
primissario, or second priest to the curate, who is Dominica's
confessor, who might have helped me about seeing her; but he was not
at home, so we went to the house at once. The door of the little
place, a part of a building, where Dominica lives with her sister,
was locked. The sister was out. I heard her groaning slightly at
every breath. She made something of an answer when my guide knocked.
He went to seek her sister, and came back saying that she begged us
to delay a little, as others had been with her, and she was much
fatigued. So we went to the Osteria, and got the best they could
give, which was a _brodo d'acqua_, in English, I fancy, tea-kettle
broth. This shows that the place is not chosen for its riches to be
honoured by God with His wonders. After this pause we returned to
the little house, {315} which has a Tyrolese roof overhanging, and a
little gallery outside her door. The sister, who is married and has
her children about her, took us in, and in an inner room we saw the
Addolorata in her bed. Her appearance naturally will not have been
interesting, like that of Maria Mörl, but rather of an ordinary
young countrywoman, of low stature, like her sister. She has
ordinarily the appearance of great pain and suffering; but when I
spoke to her about England, she lifted her eyes and moved her hands
in a way more earnest than _l'estatica_, and showed great feeling at
the thought of its conversion. Now for her appearance: her face was
almost all covered with clotted blood, which flowed, I suppose,
yesterday morning, for so it does every Friday, from the punctures
as of thorns on her brow. These were not, as I expected, irregularly
placed as by a crown of thorns made at hazard, but they formed a
line close together on the forehead, and do not go round the head to
the back part. Her legs were gathered up as if the sinews were
contracted; her body, the doctor told me, is all covered with sores,
which, the more that is done to cure, the worse they grow. She keeps
her hands clenched before her heart, and groans slightly with every
breath. On her hands were seen stigmata, much more marked than Maria
Mörl, like fresh wounds by a nail passing through and sinking into
the flesh. Her sister said the same was the case with her side and
feet. I only spoke to her a little about England, and was delighted
at her manner then, which shows how superior she is to her pains. It
seems to distress her to be too near her, and as I have learned
since it does. She is always hot; her sister was fanning her all the
time, and in the depth of winter it is the same thing, when snow
drives into her room. She also gives her prints; she made her sister
show her prints out of a little case, and when she has chosen them
she kisses them and gives them to each with great kindness. There
were a young man and woman there, who offered money for them to her
sister, but she will take nothing. The sight of her is not at first
so striking and pleasing as of la Mörl, but the remembrance is more
impressive. It seems a state more meritorious, more humble. It is
more poor, and patient. {316} Having been delayed so long, I could
not get to Cavallesi till 3; the sulky face of the driver betokened
no good for my return; the horse, too, he said was ill, and in fine,
he brought me to Egna just too late for the still-wagen to Lavorno,
and I was not so patient as I ought to have been after seeing that
example, but I was helped by it a little. I had to take a carriage
for myself and the same miserable driver, who was going to sleep all
the way, and grunted at me once when I awoke him. I got to a nice
inn at Lavorno, the white house again.

Sunday, Sept. 1.--I started at 5 by a still-wagen for Trent, all
alone in it. I came to the Rose Inn, and waited to say mass at the
Church di S. Maria Maggiora, where the Council of Trent was held,
and prayed, as usual on Sundays, for the gift of Faith, which was
appropriate here. The church is quite uninteresting in appearance. I
breakfasted at a cafe, and went about my way of travelling; then at
¼ to 11 went and heard the end of a high mass. I thought to be in
time for all. After it I was very happy in getting myself introduced
to the Bishop, who was extremely agreeable, and said he prayed daily
for England, and promised to recommend it to Maria la Mörl, and to
all the clergy. I left, as if I need take no more trouble about
Trent. I went to the Rosa, and stayed there quiet till dinner at
12½, and then till 4, writing my long days of late in the Journal.
At 4, I got into a carriage carrying four inside to Roveredo, where
I got to the Corona, and went to bed at 8½ or 9.

Monday, Sept. 2.--I set off soon after 3½ with an old _vetturino_,
who rather displeased me last night in making his bargain, by his
flattering way; but I found him a nice old man, and very civil. We
got to Bosketto, on the banks of the Adige (which indeed we followed
all day), at 7¼. I said mass and breakfasted. Then we went on to
dine at a single house, called Ospitaletto. We stayed from 12 to 2;
I wrote two letters. We then started and got to Verona at 4, to the
Hotel di Londra. I took a _laquais de place_, and walked to Count
Persico's house. I was sorry to find him in the country. Then to the
Jesuit Noviciate, where I {317} thought I might possibly find
Connolly. The Superior showed me Padre Odescalchi's room, where he
passed his noviciate. I recommended myself to his prayers. I had
been reading on the road his memoirs, given me at Louvain. The
Superior promised to recommend England. I went then to the
cathedral, and the Bishop being out, I saw the Vicario, who kindly
promised to speak for me to the Bishop. I then went into the
cathedral, where there was a brilliant illumination, and a most
solemn benediction, and then a litany before the altar of the
Blessed Virgin, which reminded me of the holy litanies of Rome. I
have seen nothing like this on the Continent, nor have I seen a town
so full of respectable clergy in every part. Came home and to bed at
8½.

Tuesday, Sept. 3rd.--Started at 4 with my new _vetturino_, who
cheated me as usual, but was civil. It rained almost all day. I said
mass at a place called Montebello, and got to Vicenza to dine at
11½. Then started for Padua with a new _vetturino_, and had for
company an old and a young Roman priest. The old one was Bighi, a
well-known professor, who taught Dr. Wiseman and S. Sharples, &c.,
and was full of kindness to me. I talked myself almost hoarse with
him. They stopped at Padua. I went on railroad to Venice. I sat by a
priest of Illyricum of the _scuole pie_ of St. Joseph Calasanctius;
but what was wonderful was my being in the midst of Mrs. Neville and
her family, whom Mrs. Rio desired me to see, coming back from a
visit to Vicenza. We kept together all across the Sayburne, and made
a great acquaintance. I got into a gondola, and had to go a great
round to put down another young man, who had already engaged it. I
had a great battle about my fare, and for a wonder I conquered. I
waited a little, having my chocolate, when Phillipps and all came
in, and we made a happy meeting, giving an account of our respective
travels.

Wednesday, Sept. 4th.--I went at 7 to say mass at San Marco, but was
obliged to wait till 8, as they are very strict here not to allow a
priest to mass without leave from the Patriarch, except the first
day, when, as to me, leave {318} is given. I breakfasted at a cafe,
then went with Phillipps to St. Georgio dei Greci, and heard a high
mass of the schismatic Greeks, of whom there is a colony at Venice;
the occasion was the octave of the Assumption, old style. The mass
was all celebrated behind a close screen; which is open part of the
time, but not during the most solemn part. After the consecration,
the host and chalice are carried outside this screen in procession,
and presented for adoration; one man before us was making his
prostrations all the time. The priests had chasubles, hanging evenly
all round to near the ankles; they lifted them to use their hands;
there is no musical instrument, but singing all the time. I then
went to the Cancellaria to get my licence to say mass, and then to
Mrs. Neville at the Corte dell' Albero. She soon after took me to
the Armenian College, where the examinations were just finished.
There are eighteen scholars, with two priests over them, in an old
grand palace of a ruined family of Pesaro. The _vicario_ and several
others from the island were there. We talked much about England. I
came to dinner at the Tavola, returned at 4, Then we went to the
Island of St. Lazzaro, to see Padre Pasquale and the Archbishop
Sutrio Somal (as the name sounds), great friends of Phillipps at
Rome in 1831, and of mine, too. When we came back. I went in a
gondola to Mrs. Neville, and back to tea.

Tuesday, Sept. 5.--This being the feast of St. Lorenzo Giustiniani,
I went out at 6¾ to find the church where his body is laid. He died
in the very hotel where we are. The church I went to in a gondola in
rain to St. Pietro at Castello--the ancient patriarchal church--and
said mass at the high altar, where he lies. I walked back in rain,
without umbrella, as I lost mine yesterday. I bought another. At 12,
Padre Raffaelle, an Armenian priest, Mrs. Neville's confessor, to
whom she introduced me yesterday, called and took me to the
patriarch, Cardinal Monico, who received most graciously my
propositions for England. I am to call again with the Phillippses on
Saturday, and get something more exactly settled about the prayers;
we then went across the Great Canal to the Del Redentore, where
{319} is a convent of eighty Capuchins. The church is reckoned a
_chef d'oeuvre_ of Palladio, built _ex voto_ by the Republic, after
a plague. We saw the guardian, who is also provincial; he learned
our want, and promised for his own house and ten others of the
province. I came back to dinner. A Greek priest whom Phillipps got
acquainted with the other day, came to dine with us, and sat till 9.
His conversation was very interesting as showing the ideas of the
Greeks about the Roman Church, and their doctrines on many points
varying from ours. What a terrible evil is that of separation of
nearly half of Christendom! The greater reasons to hasten the
reunion of England, that we may draw the others.

Friday, Sept. 6.--The two Neville boys came with me to St. Marco,
and served my mass, as their mother had desired. After breakfast, I
called on Mrs. Neville, who was not up, then went to Palazzo Pasaro,
to Padre Raffaelle. He came with me first to the Franciscans; the
guardian promised for his house of fifty, and for three or four at
some distance from him. Then to the Dominicans, who are fifteen, a
new establishment a year old. Then to the Jesuits, who are eight in
number, only this summer returned to their old church, which is one
of the most remarkable for its ornaments in Venice, white marble
inlaid with black. I remembered it well from twenty-six years ago.
The superior, Padre Ferrario, is going to Rome to-morrow, and
promised to see about my matters there with Cardinal Acton and the
general of the Jesuits. I came home in haste, and found Phillipps,
and Mrs. Neville and her friends with her, gone to St. Marco, where
we followed them to see the treasury--_i.e._, the inestimably rich
treasures brought by Doge Dandolo from Constantinople, just before
it was taken by the Turks. The chief thing is an antependium and a
reredos of massive gold, with splendid pearls and enamels. Mrs.
Neville took us to the Convent of the Visitation, where is preserved
the heart of St. Francis of Sales, which was brought from France
when the Revolution drove off all religious. They could not show
this relic; but promised prayers, and to write to other houses.
There were there {320} forty nuns. Back to dinner at the _table
d'hôte_. After dinner we went all together to see the only large
Gothic church in Venice, called St. ---- di Frari, which is the
Venetian for Frati; it used to be the Franciscan church, and their
house is turned into a public Archivium. Phillipps said they
deserved it for having such a palace. The church is a fine one, and
has some good morsels; but what is most startling, or rather
glaring, is the immense marble monument to Canova--a pyramid, with a
heathen procession into it. His heart is here. His right hand in an
urn at the Arcadinia. We tried at St. Sitorstro (Silvestro) to
assist at the 40 _ore_, but all was over. We came back by a fine
star light, and went to St. Marco, where we had ices at Floriano's
_café_, and heard military music. Canonico Pio Bighi, and his young
companion Don Giovanni Moneti, joined us, _ad cor. sat._ We came
home at 9.

Sept. 7th.--Said mass at St. Marco, on the altar where the
miraculous picture of Our Lady is, by St. Luke. The Greek priest
told us there existed seventy-five of them. I went at 8½ to the
Jesuits, to give a letter for Cardinal Acton, about indulgences for
prayers for England, to Padre Ferrarrio, the Superior, who sets off
to-day for Rome. I found Mrs. Neville and Father Raffaelle talking
to him. The latter kindly went around with me to-day again. We went
first to the Institute of St. Dorothea, founded lately by Conte
Passi and his brother, which we desired to see. The Superioress was
out, but another made excellent promises.--15 nuns. Then to St.
Lucia, to the Sisters of Charity, and another house dependent on
them. In the latter was an Armenian lady who spoke English, having
been six years at Hammersmith Convent. The Superioress of the chief
house spoke of Gentili with great respect; she knew him when she was
at the house at Verona. She promised me for thirteen houses under
her authority. Then we went past the Jesuits to a house of Reformed
Franciscans (Zoccolanti). St. Michele di Marano. Promised for three
houses as large as this, about twenty-six, and many more smaller.
This is where Gregory XVI. was educated, made his novitiate, and was
Superior. We saw the outside of his room; the key could {321} not be
got. We got back at 12½. I went with Phillipps to the Cardinal
Patriarch, as appointed before. I gave him the prayer for England
which I gave to Padre Ferrario, and he promised to speak with him
also. Thence to the Accademia, where for two hours we looked at the
pictures and statues. It did not greatly answer me. Thence left our
cards on the Duc de Levis, who, with his master the Due de Bordeaux,
is at the Albergo Reale. Then dined. Another _maigre_. After I did
not go out with them, as I had office to say. At 7½ we had a party
to tea--the Greek priest, with Mrs. Neville and three children. They
stayed till past 11.

Monday, Sept. 8. Nativity of Blessed Virgin.--I said mass at S.
Marco. We went to the high Armenian mass at S. Lazzaro at 10. We
were a little late. After it we stayed there with our friends the
fathers till vespers and benediction, at 3. And after that, dinner
at 4. Mrs. Neville and family were there too. It was an interesting
day for seeing and conversing. I saw, in the visitors' book, my name
under Lefevre's, written by him July, 1820. We sat in the cloister,
with the old Archbishop, &c., till twilight. He made us presents of
many handsome books printed there. We came back to S. Marco, and sat
to hear the band, &c. On coming home, at 7½, we were in great demand
with cards and notes, left by the Duc de Levis, to invite us to the
Duc de Bordeaux's (Comte de Chombard) salon at 7. We were all thrown
back by Phillipps having no dresses to go in. So we had to keep easy
at home.

Sunday, Sept. 9.--Mass at the cathedral (S. Marco). P. Raffaele and
the Greek priest came to breakfast. At 10 I had a visit from the
Superioress of the Institute of Sta. Dorothea and a companion. At
10½ we went to visit the Duc de Bordeaux, who gave us a quarter of
an hour's most affable conversation, spoke with great kindness of
his reception in England, and asked after Dr. Wiseman, &c. His
confessor, the Abbé Trélouquet, was introduced to us, and came in
our gondola to Mrs. Neville, of whom we took leave. Mr. Trélouquet
promised to engage the French royal {322} family in prayers for
England. He said, the Duc de Bordeaux had spoken of my asking him at
Oscott. We went then to S. Tommaso, where I left the Phillippses and
went to the banker, Holme, who is Armenian consul. Then back to S.
Tommaso, where I found them looking at an extraordinary collection
of relics made by a priest, who devoted himself to the work when all
things were in confusion in the revolution. He gave the collection
to the church, on condition of their being open to the public for
veneration. The chief relic is some of the blood of Our Lord, in a
beautiful gold or gilt reliquary. I found there Monsignor Arfi, the
Pope's Caudatario, and invited for England. I then went to Padre
Raffaele, at the college, and went with him to see the two brothers,
priests Cavanis, founders of an excellent institute of _Scuole di
Carità_. They are in a poor house, with a few companions; one of
them complained that no one helped them; but they are like their
patron S. Joseph Calasanctius, losing ground in old age, but with
hope of better things. P. Raffaele, who has indeed been an angel to
me in Venice, came with me to the inn where they were at dinner. At
4 we left Venice, with pleasant remembrances. We crossed the lagune
in a procession of boats, and got into the railway carriage, which
took us to Padua about 7. At the Stella d'Oro I went out to try to
find the Bishop; but he was not in town.

Tuesday, Sept, 10.--I went to St. Antony's church at 7½ to say mass.
Before going I met Dr. Roskell, of Manchester, just come with a
Manchester party on a rapid tour. I could not have the altar of St.
Antony, which seems always occupied. I spoke to the Superior of the
house of Conventual Franciscans attached to the church, 50 in
number, who promised to recommend my cause. I came back in a little
carriage with Phillipps. We started at 9 for Verona, dined at
Vicenza; then I took a carriage and called on the Bishop, Monsignor
Capellari, a good old man, who received me graciously. We stopped in
going out of Vicenza to see Palladio's Olympic Theatre, built to act
the OEdipus Tyrannus in 1585. This pretends to nothing but paganism.
We reached Verona at 7. I went out to see {323} the Bishop, who was
quite gracious; he begins his retreat with his clergy to-morrow, and
promised to begin then and recommend England. I then called at Conte
Persico's, who is in town, but was just gone to the theatre. Home,
and to bed at 9½.

Wednesday, Sept. 11.--Up soon after 5, and at 7 said mass in St.
Anastasius, a large church close to the hotel. Soon after Conte
Persico came to return my visit, and sat a good while with me, then
with the Phillippses, to whom I introduced him. He is grown very
old, being now 67. He said he was married two years after I had seen
him before, and was now by accident in town with his wife. I thought
him very like his old father. At 10 we went in a carriage to see the
tombs of the Scaligeri, formerly tyrants of Verona, fine Gothic
structure; then the Amphitheatre, and the church of St. Zenone,
where I saw the image of the saint again which I before laughed at,
as a thing so to be treated, in 1820. I then called at Conte
Persico's, and saw his lady. At 12½ we set off for Dezenzano, a
beautiful spot at the town end of the Lake di Garda. We arrived at
6, and had a pleasant evening in a little room of the Albergo
Imperiale, looking over the lake. I wrote to Mrs. Neville and Abbé
de Baudry.

Thursday, Sept. 12.--There was rain in the night, leaving us a fine
day without dust. I said mass at 6½ in the parish church. We went to
dine at the Duc Torri, at Brescia. I went to see the Bishop, who
received me very courteously. There I met a Philippine lay-brother,
who introduced me to the church of his order, Sta. Maria della Pace,
then to five or six of the fathers sitting together. I had a fine
opportunity of recommending England. They are the only religious
house in Brescia (of men at least). After dinner at 3 we set off for
Bergamo, when we came to Albergo Reale at 9 o'clock. I got up to my
knees in a stream near the road at the wet stage, but hope no harm
from it.

Friday, Sept. 13.--Anniversary of my first coming abroad, 1819. I
got up soon after 5, said mass in a church opposite the inn,
breakfasted at a café, then walked up the beautiful road to the high
town called the _Città_, where our {324} inn was is the borga.
Between them there are about 36,000. In the _Città_ I met a priest,
by name Giuseppe Caffi, belonging to the collegiate church, who,
when I asked him for Count Papi, volunteered to be my guide
altogether. He showed me the cathedral, his own church, Sta. Maria,
and a little convent church, Church of the Benedictine Nuns,
beautifully gilt. He also went with me to the Bishop, who gave me
one of the best receptions. By the same good hap as at Verona, the
priests were in retreat. He introduced me to the Abbate Vittadini,
conductor of the retreat, who promised to speak of England to the
clergy. He was already full of zeal for it; he knew a good deal of
the state of things with us. When I wrote my name, he knew it well,
and it had a good effect. I went with Abbé Caffi to the palace of
Count Papi; all were away. He came with us to the hotel, and soon we
started for Milan. We arrived at 3, and found rooms in the best
hotel (de la Ville). _Tables d'hôte_ at 5. I said office, and just
got time to look in the cathedral before dinner, and again after we
all went. It was beyond my recollections of old. I admired the
ceiling, which seemed all beautiful openwork; I did not remember
this. It seemed to be only painted so. How I remember Lord Kinnaird
taking my mother to it. We tried two other churches to find
Benediction in vain. Then I went with Phillipps to a bookseller's.

Saturday, Sept. 14.--Up at 5½. I went to say mass at the cathedral,
and finding that the Roman rite is not allowed in the church alone,
I was in the happy necessity of celebrating in the chapel of St.
Charles, in the crypt, which is almost reserved for strangers. I
waited over two masses. After breakfast we had a visit from Count
Mellerio, Rosinini's great friend. Phillipps and I went with him to
his palace, and saw Abbate Polidori, who lives there. Mrs. Ambrose
came with the carriage to pick us up, and I went to the Church of
St. Celso, and to the great hospital fitted up for 3,000 patients;
then to vespers at the Duomo, and at 3½ to dine with Count Mellerio.
I sat near Polidori. Before we parted he and Signer Mercati seemed
gained for England. At 6½ we went to a Benediction at the Duomo,
only of relics {325} of the Passion, and not very solemn. This was
by occasion of the Feast of the Exaltation of the Cross to-day. I
then went to the Archbishop's palace to find the Grand Vicar, to get
leave for confessions to-morrow, and without expecting it saw the
Cardinal himself instead. As Count Mellerio was to prepare my way
to-morrow, I did not speak of England. When I got home I found
Mellerio at the inn, bringing a permission from the Grand Vicar. To
bed after 10. I have got unwell to-day in the inside,--between
yesterday's _maigre_ and the fruit, I suppose.