Chapter II: Part 2

The Country about it was afterwards called _Romania_ in a limited and restrained sense, (for that _Romania_ was anciently the same with _orbis Romanus_, seems clear from[5]_Epiphanius_) and the People Ρωμαῖοι. But I suppose this was not done till about the middle times of the Empire, when it began to decline. The _Greeks_ still retain this Name. For if you ask any of the _Greeks_ born upon the Continent of _Thrace_, what Country Man he is? he answers forthwith, Ρωμαῖος _Romios_, for so they pronounce it. The _Turks_ in like manner call a _Greek_ Christian _Urum Gaour_, or the Roman Infidel, as they will call sometimes the Emperor of _Germany_, _Urumler Padisha_ or Emperor of the _Romans_. Hence it was, that the latter _Græcian_ Emperors stiled themselves βασιλεῖς Ρωμαίων, Kings of the Romans, that is, such as were Born in _Romania_ and the other Countries, which made up the Eastern division of the Empire. Tho' perchance by this flourishing Title they pretended a right to the Government of the West: Upon which vain presumption they assumed also the Title of Κοσμοκράτορες, or Emperors of the World, as if they had been the true Successors of _Augustus_, and the Western Emperors, Usurpers, whom they called by way of contempt and indignation, Ρῆγες, Reges, as[6] _Luitprandus_ informs us in the accompt of his Embassy to _Nicephorus Phocas_, and afforded the People of _Italy_ no other Title than that of[7]_Longobards_ or _Lombards_. The present _Greeks_ call all the Western Christians Λατῖνοι or φράγγοι _Latins_ or _Franks_, the _Turks_ only making use of the latter, when they speak civilly of us, and calling _Christendom_ _Phrenkistan_, in the present _Greek_ φραγγία. The _Turks_ now as proudly call _Constantinople_ _Alem pena_, or the refuge of the World: Where indeed seems to be a medley of all or most Nations of three parts of it, and of all Religions, which are allowed to be publickly profest and exercised every where throughout the Empire, except the _Persian_. For they look upon it as a corruption of, and deviation from the Rules and Doctrine of _Mahomet_, their great false Prophet, and therefore absolutely forbid it, as repugnant to, and destructive of the Doctrine of Life and Salvation, as they speak. And accordingly they condemn with all imaginable fury the Professors of it, who pretend to follow _Ali_, as Sectaries and Apostates, and entertain worse Opinions of them, than of _Christians_, or _Jews_ or _Infidels_. The _Persians_ are not behind-hand with them in their hatred and disrespect, deriding them as gross and stupid, and looking upon them as little less than barbarous; Interest and Zeal for their several Tenets heightning their differences so much, that in time of War they destroy one anothers _Moschs_. I remember, that there was a great Discourse in _Constantinople_ among the _Turks_ concerning an impudent hot-headed _Persian_, who publickly in the new _Mosch_ built by the Mother of the present Emperor, asserted that _Ali_ was equal to _Mahomet_. But it seems he very luckily made his escape out of their Hands, at which the Priests and the more zealous _Turks_ were very much scandalized.

The _Greeks_ have twenty six Churches within the Walls of the City, besides 6 in _Galata_, of which I have given an Account elsewhere. They have also two Churches at _Scutari_, one at _Kadikui_ or _Chalcedon_. So at _Staurosis_, _Chingilkui_, and several other Villages upon the Asian Shore off the Bosphorus, as at _Beshictash_, _Ortakui_, _Chorouch chesme_, which Church is dedicated to St. _Michal_ the Archangel, _Jenikui_ or _Neochorion_, _Therapia_, _Bujukdere_, and other Villages on the _European_ side. They have also a Church at _Haskui_, where is their Burying place, and another near the _Bagnio_, dedicated to St. _Parasceve_. And at _Tatoula_ about a Mile from _Pera_, upon a Hill, which from the Name of the Church is thence called by the _Greeks_ and _Franks_, St. _Demetrius_ his Hill. Next to the holy Virgin, St. _Demetrius_ and St. _George_ have most Churches dedicated to them.

The _Armenians_ have not, if I remember aright, above seven Churches; they being few in number in comparison of the _Greeks_.

The _Jews_ may have in the City and places adjacent between twenty and thirty Synagogues, this being the greatest shelter of that accursed contemptible People in the Grand Signiors Dominions, next to _Caire_ and _Saloniki_: and I believe there may be about twenty or thirty thousand families of them. They are of great use and service to the _Turks_, upon accompt of their Brocage and Merchandise, and Industry in several mechanical Trades. All these I look upon as Natives, or Slaves rather, each paying mony for his Head every year. The _Jews_ indeed very wisely collect this Tax among themselves, and according to an agreement made with the _Teftardar_ or Treasurer, pay a certain sum in gross for their whole Nation residing there: by which piece of cunning they are great gainers, and spare the poor among them less able to pay, by a contribution of the rich to make up the sum. The _English_ and _Dutch_ Ambassadors have their Chappels in their Palaces common to their respective Nations.

The Churches and Chappels of the Western _Christians_ of the _Roman_ Communion in _Galata_, are

St. _Peters_, belonging to the _Dominicans_, where is the famous piece of _Madonna di Constantinopolis_ as the _Italians_ call it, or of the blessed Virgin, holding the holy Child _Jesus_ in her arms: which they pretend to be drawn by the hand of St. _Luke_, celebrated by some of the latter Ecclesiastical Writers to have been a famous Painter. Out of respect to this idle tradition the credulous and superstitious _Latins_ and _Greeks_ of the _Roman_ Communion shew great veneration to it, which otherwise hath little in it of proportion, art, or beauty, to derive any reputation upon the designer, or upon his work.

St. _Francis_, belonging to the _Conventuali_, Friars of the order of St. _Francis_; the ground of this by the wise conduct and intercession of _Caviliere Molino_, the Venetian _Bailo_, after the surrender of _Candia_, upon the Peace made by the Republick with the Grand Signior, was procured to be restored, and a handsome Church rebuilt with the large contributions of mony sent out of _Christendom_.

St. _Benedict_, belonging to the _Jesuits_, where is a rich Altar curiously adorn'd with several figures in _Mosiack_. This Convent was purchased for them by their great Benefactor, _Henry_ the fourth of _France_.

St. _Mary_, belonging to the _Observantines_ or _Zoccolanti_, a branch of the order of St. _Francis_, so called from their going in _Zoccoli_ or wooden clogs.

The _Capuchines_ have a little Chappel dedicated to St. _George_, hard by the _French_ Ambassadors Palace.

St. _Ann_, a Chappel frequented by the _Perotes_.

St. _Paul_ and St. _Anthony_, were both taken away some years since from the _Christians_, and turned into _Moschs_. The former of which is now known by the name of _Arab Giamesi_, or the Mosch of the _Arabians_. Our Interpreters mentioned also to me the Church of St. _John_, which the _Turks_ have seized upon for their use, St. _George_, which the _Jews_ are possest of, and St. _Sebastian_, which was used to be visited chiefly on Holy days.

The North-wind blows for the most part at _Constantinople_. Which must be ascribed to its nearness to the _Euxine_ Sea, which bears that point from it. So that for want of a Southwardly wind Ships have been forced to lye a month or two sometimes near the mouth of the _Hellespont_. This was taken notice of long since by _Eunapius_ in the life of _Ædesius_, who ascribes the seldom blowing of the _South_ wind to the situation of the mountains, whereas it is checked and overpowered by the exuberance of the Vapours continually sent forth from the _black_ and _great Sea_, as the _Greeks_ call it in comparison of the _Mediterranean_. _Vide ad finem Codini de origin. Constantinopol. Edit. Paris. Pag. 80._

The _Hellespont_ is about forty miles in length, and at the Castles of _Sestos_ and _Abydos_ the streight may be about three quarters of an English mile over, or less.

The length of the _Propontis_ is about a hundred and fifty miles, both shores may be seen in the middle of it. In it are,

_Cyzicus_, an Island near the _Asian_ shore, to which it is joined by two bridges. It still retains its ancient name Κυζικὸ, and is the seat of a Bishop, being inhabited by a considerable number of _Greeks_.

_Proconnesus_, not far from the former; now, as for some centuries past, called _Marmora_, from the excellent quarries of Marble there found, the marmor _Cyzenicum_ also being famous in the time of _Pliny_.

_Besbychus_, now called by the Greek καλόλιμνο, or the good haven, not far from the entrance into the bay of _Montanea_ to the North and by East. The _Turks_ call it _Imralme_.

There are several Islands over against the bay of _Nicomedia_, formerly called _Sinus Astacenus_, according to _Strabo_, about six or seven leagues from _Constantinople_.[8]

_Prote_, so called because they approach first to it, coming from _Constantinople_; to the South of this _Prencipe_ and _Pytis_, which I take to be the same with _Pyrgos_, that lyes inmost toward the bay: _Chalcitis_, in modern Greek, _Chalce_ or _Chalcis_. _Oxia_ and _Platy_ to the North-west. I have expressed the _Turkish_ names of the lesser and uninhabited islands elsewhere, which perchance were phantastically imposed by some _Franks_.

The _Seraglio_ is at the extreme point of the North-east Angle of _Constantinople_, where formerly stood old _Byzantium_, within which towards the Haven is a stately _Kiosk_ or summer house, from whence the _Grand Signior_ usually takes Barge, when he passes into _Asia_, or diverts himself upon the _Bosphorus_, at which time the _Bostangi Bashi_, who hath the principal care of the Emperors palace, and hath the command of the _Bosphorus_, sits at the helm and steers.

The seven Towers are at the South-east extremity.

The only Suburbs are to the North-west, along the Haven-side; for above the hill, where the three walls begin, lies an open champaign Country, except that here and there at considerable distances farm houses are scatter'd.

The Haven runs in from the West, and so opens East.

At the East end of _Galata_ is _Tophana_, where they cast their great Guns.

_Pera_ and _Galata_ have about six gates to the Seaward. The whole tract of ground was anciently, before the times of the Emperor _Valentinian_, who enclosed and fortified _Galata_ with walls and towers, styled Περαῖα or Regio _Peræa_ being πέραν τῆς πόλεως, on the other side of the City to the North, which is the reason of its name, seated on higher hills, and whose ascent is more steep and difficult.

Our modern _Geographers_, such as _Mercator_ and _Ortelius_, who herein follow _Ptolomy_, place _Constantinople_ in the Latitude of 43. degrees and 5 minutes: the _Arabian_ and _Persian Astronomers_, as _Abulfeda_, _Nassir Edin_, _Vlugh Beigh_, and so the πρόχειροι κανόνες, _Chrysococcas_ translated out of the _Persian_ tables, place it more Northerly in 45. But by latter and better observation it is found, that they have erred in assigning the Latitude of this City, as of several other places. To salve these differences, there is no just ground of pretence to say, that the _Poles_ are moveable and have changed their situation since their time, whereas it may better be imputed to their want of due care, or to their taking things upon trust, from the reports of _Travellers_ and _Seamen_, not having been upon the places themselves: which certainly is to be said for _Ptolomy_ whose observations, as to places more remote from _Alexandria_, are far from being accurate and true. The learned Mr. _John Greaves_, as I find in a Manuscript discourse, very worthy of being Printed, which he presented to the most reverend and renowned _Arch-bishop Usher_, took the height of the _Pole_ at _Constantinople_ with a brass sextant of above 4 feet _radius_, and found it to be but 41 degrees 6´. but by the observation we made in our Court-yard at _Pera_ with a very good _Quadrant_ we found it but 40 degrees and 58 minutes of North Latitude.

There is no place between the _Propontis_ and the walls of the City, except just at the Seraglio-point, which may be two hundred paces in length; where they have raised on a platform a battery for Great guns; but from the point to the end of the Haven West, the space to the gates is unequal in some places about twenty paces broad, in others three or four times as many more.

The distance between _Constantinople_ and _Chalcedon_ upon the opposite _Bythinian_-shore may be about three or four miles.

In the Walls are engraven the Names of several Emperors, who reigned toward the declension of the _Græcian_ Empire, as _Theophilus_, _Michael_, _Basilius_, _Constantius Porphyrogenitus_, by whose care, and at whose expence the several breaches caused in them by the Sea or by Earthquakes, were repaired.

_Kumkapi_ or the sand-gate lies toward the _Propontis_; this the _Greeks_ call in their vulgar language Κονδοσκάλι, _Contoscalium_, or the little scale or landing-place. Here formerly was an Arsenal for Gallies and other small vessels; it being a convenient passage over Sea. Over this Gate was anciently engraven a curious Inscription still preserved in that excellent collection published by[9]_Gruterus_.

_Jedicula Kapi_, or the Gate of the seven Towers, so called from its nearness to that _Acropolis_, is that, I guess, which the _Greeks_ formerly called χρυσῆ or the Golden Gate, and by some late _Latin_ Writers _Chrysea_, in _Luitprandus_, _Carea_, by a mistake either of the Transcriber or Printer, for _Aurea_, for so certainly it must be mended. Over this Gate was this inscription,

_Hæc loca Theudosius decorat post fata Tyranni,
Aurea secla gerit, qui portam construit auro._

cited by _Sirmond_ in his notes upon[10]_Sidonius_. This Gate is in the twelfth Region, and was also called ὡραῖα from its beautiful and curious structure.

The Gun gate formerly called Roman gate, not because it leads towards the continent of _Romania_ or _Thrace_, but from[11]St. _Romanus_, where the last Christian Emperor was killed at the assault which the _Turks_ made to force their Way into the City by it.

Near _Adrianople_ gate is a fair large _Mosch_ called _Ali-bassa_, upon a hill accounted the highest in the City.

The distance between tower and tower in the upper wall to the landward may be about ninety of my paces; the space between that and the second wall about eighteen paces over.

The place, where the _Lyons_, _Leopards_, and such like wild creatures are kept, (where I saw also several _Jackalls_) was formerly, as the _Greeks_ told me, a Christian Church dedicated to Παναγία or the Blessed Virgin, where this Verse is still legible,

Κατὰ Σκυθῶν ἔπνευσας θερμὸν ἐν μάχαις.

There is no tide or running back of the water on any side of the _Bosphorus_ into the black Sea, as[12]some have imagined, whose mistake might possibly arise hence, that the wind being at North, and blowing hard, the current sets more violently at such times against the several headlands jetting out into the channel, which admits of several turnings, and so the waters are forced back to some little distance: or else because when the South-wind freshens and grows boisterous, it makes a high rolling Sea in the _Propontis_ and _Bosphorous_, and being contrary to the current, gives a check to it, so that it becomes less sensible, and is easily stemmed. Where it is narrowest, the distance seems to the eye to be scarce a mile over from one shore to another; where broadest, not much above a mile and a half, unless where it runs into the deep Bays, which by reason of their shallowness only harbour Boats.

The channel certainly is natural and not cut by art, as some have idly fansied, not considering, how the _Euxine_ Sea should discharge it self otherwise of those great quantities of waters, poured into it by the _Ister_ and _Tanais_, now called _Don_, and the other Rivers, whereby it becomes less salt, even very sensibly to the taste, than several parts of the _Mediterranean_.

The Fish, by a strange kind of instinct, pass in vast shoals twice a year, Autumn and Spring, through the _Bosphorus_, that is, out of one Sea into another, of which the _Greeks_, who live several months of the year upon them, take great numbers, and supply the markets at easie rates; the Cormorants and other ravenous water-fowl, which the _Turks_ will not suffer to be destroy'd or otherwise molested, preying upon them.

The weather in some months is very inconstant, great heats and colds happening the same day upon the change of the wind.

The winters at _Constantinople_ are sometimes extraordinary severe. I have heard it related by several old _Greeks_, as a thing most certain that the _Bosphorus_ was frozen over in the time of _Achmed_, and that a Hare was coursed over it. It hapned thus, that upon a thaw huge cakes of Ice came floating down the _Danube_ into the black Sea, and were driven by the current into the _Bosphorus_, whereupon the return of the frost, they were fixed so hard that it became passable. In the year 1669 there was Ice in the Haven to the great amazement of the _Turks_; and some were so frighted at this unusual accident, that they lookt upon it as a dismal prodigy, and concluded, that the World would be at an end that Year. The _Aguglia_ or _Obelisk_ in the _Hippodrome_ is betwixt fifty and sixty Foot high.

The Historical Pillar in _basso relievo_, raised in honour of the Emperors _Arcadius_ and _Honorius_, may be in height about an hundred seven and forty feet.

_Alexius Comnenus_ lies buried in the Patriarchal Church against the wall, and his daughter _Anna Comnena_, the Historian, who lived about the year of Christ 1117. They pretend to shew there the reliques of St. _Anastasia_, who suffered Martyrdom under the Emperor _Valerianus_, and of St. _Euphemia_, Virgin and Martyr, who lost her life most gloriously for _Christ's_ holy religion at _Chalcedon_ under _Dioclesian_.

In _Sancta Sophia_ there are pillars so great, that a Man can scarce fathom them at twice. At the end of the Gallery, that joins the other two, each about thirty of my paces wide, there is a piece of transparent Marble, two or three Inches thick. In the North gallery upon the Pavement is a reddish sort of a Marble Stone, brought, as the _Turks_ and _Christians_ relate, from _Palestine_, on which they Fable, that the blessed Virgin used to wash the linnen of our Saviour.

I observed but one step from the Body of the Church to the _Bema_ or place where the Altar formerly stood.

The great _Mosch_ at _Chasim-bassa_ on _Pera_ side to the West, was formerly a Church dedicated to St _Theodosia_.

_Gianghir_, a Mosch so called, upon a hill at _Fondaclee_ near _Tophana_.

In _Constantinople_ there are several narrow streets of Trade, closed up with sheds and pent-houses, which I suppose were in use before the _Greeks_ lost their Empire, and are the same with the σκεπαστοὶ καὶ φρακτοὶ δρόμοι in _Chrysaloras_ his[13]Epistle. But besides these places, several Trades have their distant quarters. The streets are raised for the most part on each side for the greater convenience.

Not far from _Suleimania_ is the house of the _Aga_ or General of the _Janizaries_, which so often changes its Masters.

_Pompey_'s pillar, as the _Franks_ erroneously call it, is of the _Corinthian_ order, curiously wrought, about eighteen foot in height and three in Diameter.

_Beshiktash_, a Village within three or four miles of _Constantinople_ towards the _Bosphorus_, where lies buried the famous Pirate _Ariadin_, whom the _Christian_ Writers call _Barbarossa_, who built here a handsome Mosch, having two rows of Pillars at the entrance. The Captain _Bassa_ usually, before he puts to Sea with his Armata of Gallies, visits the Tomb of this fortunate Robber, who had made several thousand _Christians_ Slaves, and makes his Prayers at the neighbouring Church for the good Success of his expedition.

They reckon in the City above a hundred publick Baths, every street almost affording one. They are esteemed works of great Piety and Charity; there being a continual use of them, not only upon the accompt of Religion, but of Health and Cleanliness. For their Diet being for the most part hot spiced meats in the Winter, and crude fruits in the Summer, their Liquor Fountain Water, or Coffee, to which we may add their lazy kind of Life (for walking is never used by them for digestion, or otherwise in the way of diversion) frequent bathing becomes necessary.

There are several receptacles of Water under Ground, and one particularly under the Church of _Sancta Sophia_, as I was informed; but I did not think it worth my curiosity to descend into it. These were of great use to the poor _Greeks_ in the last fatal Siege; but the _Turks_ are so secure, that they do not think, that they deserve either cost or pains to keep the Waters sweet, or the cisterns in repair.

The _Aqueducts_, which answer to those glorious _Aqueducts_, near _Pyrgos_, and convey the water to the great cistern near Sultan _Selim_'s Mosch, are in that part of _Constantinople_, which lies between the Mosch of _Mahomet_ the Great and _Shaxade_.

The _Turks_ began to besiege _Constantinople_ on the fifth of _April_, and took it the twenty ninth of _May_ on _Whitsun Tuesday_ morning 1453. or as the _Turks_ reckon in the year 857. of the _Hegira_, or flight of _Mahomet_, the 22 day of the first _Jomad_.

The Chappel, where _Ejub Sultan_ is interred, at whose Head and Feet I observed great wax Candles, is enclosed with latten wire Grates, for the better accommodation of such religious _Turks_ as come to pay their respect to the memory of this great _Musulman_ Saint. In the middle of the Area there is raised a building sustained by excellent marble Pillars, ascended by two several pair of stairs, where the new Emperor is inaugurated, and where he usually goes in _Biram_-time.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Κατὰ τὴν ἐπώνυμον ἡμῖν πόλιν. _So the Emperor_ Constantine _in a Letter to_ Eusebius. de vita Constantini. _lib._ 4. _cap._ 36. & apud Theodoritum Histor. Eccles. _lib._ 1. _cap._ 16. _v._ etiam Socrat. Scholast. Hist. Eccles. _lib._ 1. _cap._ 16.

[2] V. Socratem ibidem. Et Theophanem in Chronographia XXV. anno Constantini.

[3] _The _Italian_ Word _Rione_ is a manifest corruption of the _Latin_ Word._

[4] In Panegyrico, quem Romæ dixit Anthemio Augusto, bis Consuli.

[5] __Hæresi LXIX. quæ est Arianorum. Sect. 2._ where he says a sad dismal Fire was kindled by _Arius_; πῦρ ὀυ τὸ τυχὸν ὃ κατείληφε πᾶσαν τὴν Ρωμανίαν σχεδὸν, μάλιστα τῆς ἀνατολῖς τὰ μέρη, which seized almost upon all _Romania_, or _Universum Romanorum imperium_, as _Petavius_ renders it, but especially the Eastern parts of it._

[6] Pag. 144, 152, 153.

[7] Pag. 139.

[8] v. Gillium de Bosp. Thracio lib. III. cap. 12. &c.

[9] Pag. 169. Num. 3.

[10] Pag. 121.

[11] Vid. Historiam Politicam Constantinopoleos apud Crusium in Turco-Græcia, pag. 9.

[12] This was an old error; for thus writes Dionysius Byzantinus in his little Book of the Bosphorus. Τοῦ ῥεύματος τὸ μὲν πλεῖον κατιόντος ἐστὶ δὲ ὅτε κατ' ἐπικράτειαν ἀναστρέφοντος.

[13] Pag. 119.

_An account of the City of _Prusa_ in _Bythynia_, and a
continuation of the Historical Observations relating to
_Constantinople_, by the Reverend and learned _Thomas Smith_ D.
D. fellow of _Magd. Coll. Oxon._ and of the _Royal Society_._

_Montanea_ formerly called _Nicopolis_ according to _Bellonius_, or rather _Cios_, the bay hence called _Sinus Cianus_, lies in the bottom of a Bay about Fourscore miles from _Constantinople_, and is the Scale or Landing-place for _Prusa_, from which it may be about twelve miles; in the middle way to which is the Village _Moussanpoula_.

_Prusa_, now called by the _Turks_ _Bursia_, the chief City of _Bythynia_, is seated at the foot partly, and partly upon the rising of the mount _Olympus_, which is one of the highest Hills of the lesser _Asia_. Its top is covered with Snow for nine or ten Months of the Year, several streams of Water flowing down the Hill continually, accounted very unwholesom from the Snow mixed with it. In the upper part of the City to the North-west lies the Seraglio, which is walled round; but the Emperors not residing here since their acquests in _Thrace_, or scarce making visits to this Imperial City, and none of their Sons living here of late, according to the former Policy of the _Turkish_ Emperors, who did not permit their Sons, when grown up, to be near them, but sent them to some Honourable Employment, accompanied with a Bassa and Cadi to instruct them in the Arts of War and Government, it lies now neglected and despoiled of all its ornaments.

In this part also are the Sepulchers of _Osman_, the founder of the Family, which now Reigns, and his Son _Urchan_, who took the City, near a Mosch, formerly a _Christian_ Church dedicated to St. _John_, and where was formerly a Convent of Religious, built by _Constantinus Iconomachus_, where I saw the figure of a Cross still remaining upon the Wall. Here hangs up a Drum of a vast bigness, such as they carry upon the backs of Cammels, and I suppose is one of those which they used in the taking the Place.

In the lower part, near the bottom of the Hill, _Morad_ the second, the Father of _Mahomet_ the Great, lies buried: near whereunto was formerly the Metropolitical Church of the _Holy Apostles_. The _Bezesten_, or Exchange, seems to be much better and larger than the great one at _Constantinople_, as are the several Caravanserais built for the use and accommodation of Merchants, and Travellers; in one of which, the Rice Chane, I took up my quarters.

Without the City toward the East is the Mosch and Sepulcher of the Emperor _Bajazid_ the first, whom the _Turks_ call _Jilderim_ or lightning, and the Greek Writers λαίλαψ. Not far from hence is the Mosch of _Mahomet_ the first, and his Sepulcher. Toward the West upon the side of the Hill is the Mosch of _Morad_ the First, whom they call _Gazi_ or the Conqueror, near which he lies buried. There are in the whole about 124 Moschs, several of which were formerly _Christian_ Churches, and between fifty and sixty Chanes. The Castles built by _Osman_, when he besieged the City, are slighted and altogether unfortified, the one to the North, the other to the South-West.

At _Checkerghe_, about a mile and a half out of Town, are the hot Baths, much frequented both by _Christians_ and _Turks_. They are made very Convenient to Bath in, and are covered over, that they may be used in all Weathers. Among others, there is a large round _Basin_, where they usually divert themselves by Swimming.

What opinions the _Turks_ have of our Blessed _Saviour_ and the _Christian_ Religion, I shall briefly shew, as they lie dispersed in several Chapters of the _Alcoran_, according to which they frame their Discourse, whensoever either Zeal or Curiosity puts them upon this Topick. For _Mahomet_ upon his setting up to be the Author of a new Religion, finding such a considerable part of the World professing the doctrine of _Christ_, with all the Mysteries of Faith therein contained, was cast upon a necessity of saying something both concerning Him and It. By which it will appear, how great the Power of Truth is above Imposture and Subtility, and that as the Devils in the Possessed confess'd, though against their Wills, _Christ_ to be the Son of _God_, so this _Dæmoniack_ in the midst of all his Forgeries and Lies, and Ridiculous and Childish Narratives, not being able to contradict the universal Belief of the _Christians_ of that, and the preceding Ages, founded on the History of the Gospel, hath been forced to give Testimony to several particulars of it.

They confess then that _Christ_ was Born of a Pure Spotless Virgin, the Virgin _Mary_, chosen by _God_ and sanctified above all the Women in the World; and that the Angel _Gabriel_ was dispatched out of Heaven to acquaint her with the News of it. That such a kind of Miraculous and Supernatural Birth never hapned to any besides, and that _Christ_ was conceived by the _Holy Ghost_, and that he wrought mighty Miracles, for Instance, that he cleansed Lepers, gave Sight to the Blind, restored Sick Persons to their Health, and raised the Dead.

That he is a great Prophet, sent by _God_ to convert Men from the Vanity and Error of their false Worship to the Knowledge of the true _God_, to Preach Righteousness, and to correct and restore the Imperfection and Miscarriages of Humane Nature; that he was of a most Holy and Exemplary Life, that he was the true Word of _God_, the _Apostle_ or _Ambassador_ of _God_; That his Gospel was revealed to him from Heaven, and that he is in Heaven standing nigh to the Throne of _God_. They Blaspheme indeed with a Brutishness and Stupidity only befitting _Turks_, the Mysteries of the _Holy Trinity_, and of the Divinity of our _Blessed Saviour_, and deny that he was put to Death, and say that another in his Shape was Crucified by the _Jews_, and that he himself was assumed into Heaven in his Body without dying at all, and consequently they will not own, that he satisfied Divine Justice for the Sins of the World; so great an affinity is there between the Heresie of _Socinus_ and profess'd _Mahometanism_.

I could never yet see any _Turkish_ Translation of the _Alcoran_; they cry up the Elegance of the Style, which being Enthusiastick and High-flown, by reason also of the tinkling of the Periods, is very delightful to their Ears, who seem to be affected with Rhime mightily. Though I suppose it is upon a more Politick Account, that they are so averse, as to the translating it into their vulgar Language, not out of respect to the Sacredness of the Original only, whose full commanding Expressions they think cannot be translated without a great diminution to the Sense; but to keep it in greater Veneration among the People, who might be apt to Slight and Dis-esteem it, should it become thus common among them. It is enough, that the Priests and Learned Men explain the difficult Passages of it to the People, and write Commentaries for the use of the more Curious and Inquisitive. The _Persians_ on the contrary think it no disparagement to the _Arabick_, or Profanation of the Sense, to Translate this cursed Book into their own Language, and Copies are frequent among them.

The _Grand Signior_'s Women are usually the choicest Beauties of the Christian Spoils, presented by the _Bassa's_ or _Tartars_. The present _Sultana_, the Mother of the young Prince _Mustapha_, is a Candiot; the _Valide_ or Emperor's Mother, a _Russian_, the Daughter of a poor Priest, who with her Relations were seized upon by the _Tartars_ in an Incursion, which they made into the _Muscovites_ Country. She being receiv'd into the _Seraglio_, by her beautiful Complexion and cunning Behaviour, gain'd the Heart and Affection of _Sultan Ibrahim_ (a Man wholly addicted to soft Pleasures, and who seldom cared to be long absent from the Women's Apartment, but chose to spend his time among them) having the good fortune to be the Mother of the Prince _Mahomet_, the eldest Son of his Father, who now Reigns, she had all the Honours that could possibly be done her, and was the beloved _Hazaki_ or chief Concubine. During this height of Splendor and Glory, the Court removing from _Constantinople_ to _Adrianople_, distant about an Hundred and Twenty Miles, as she was passing in great State attended with her Guards, through the Streets of the City, in a Coach, much like our Carriage-Wagons, but that they are latticed to let in the Air (for no one must presume to stare or scarce look upon the Women, much less must they themselves suffer their Faces to be seen in this jealous Country) she out of Curiosity looking through the holes, saw a poor _Christian_ Slave in a Shop, where Sugar and such like Wares were Sold. Upon her return she sent one of her Eunuchs to enquire for the Person, and to ask him several Questions about his Country, Relations, Friends, and the time when and how long he had been a Slave: His answers were so particular and satisfactory, that she was soon convinc'd of the Truth and Certainty of her apprehensions, when she first cast her Eyes upon him, that he was her Brother, and accordingly it proved so. Whereupon acquainting the Emperor with it, she immediately redeemed him from his Patron, and having made the poor Wretch turn _Turk_, got him considerably preferred.

The Bassa's for the most part are the Sons of _Christians_, taken into the _Seraglio_, near the Emperor's Person, and so are prefer'd to considerable Governments, or else they raise themselves by their Conduct and Valour. _Mahomet_ Bassa in the time of _Achmet_, whose eldest Daughter he Married, was the first natural _Turk_, that was made chief Vizir, having before been Captain Bassa. The chief Vizir _Mahomet Kupriuli_, (who settled the Empire in the Minority of this Emperor, when it was ready to be shaken into Pieces, and dissolved by several powerful Factions in the State, and by the Mutinies and Discontents of the _Janizaries_ and _Saphi's_, who drove different ways) was an _Albaneze_ by Birth, the Son of a _Greek_ Priest, whom out of the height of Zeal for _Mahomet_, he made turn _Turk_ in his Old Age, and converted the _Christian_ Church in the Village where he was Born into a Mosch. This Man also forbad the _Dervises_ to Dance in a Ring and turn round, which before was their solemn Practice at set times before the People, which they would do so long, till they were giddy by this swift circular Motion, and fell down in a Swound, and then oftentimes upon their recovery from such Trances, they pretended to Revelation. The Church-Men are not very kind to his Memory, looking upon him as a Man of little or no Religion; and they give out, that if he had lived, he would have forbid their calling to Prayers from the Spires of their Moschs, and hanging out Lamps; both which they look upon as Solemn and Essential to the exercise of Religion; but he as the effect of Bigotry and Superstition.

They have a mighty Honour and Esteem for Physicians, for though they are of Opinion, that they cannot with all their Art prolong Life, the Period and Term of it being Fatal, and absolutely determin'd by God, yet they often consult them upon any violent Sickness or Pain, in order to make the time allotted them in this World more pleasant and easie. It is extraordinary rare, that a natural _Turk_ makes Physick his Profession and Study. They who practice it among them, when I was in _Turky_, were for the most part _Greeks_ and _Jews_, who know nothing of Chymical Medicines, but follow the usual Methods, which they learnt in _Italy_ and _Spain_, the former having studied in _Padua_, and the latter in _Salamanca_, where they pass for good _Catholicks_. And I remember I met with a certain _Jew_ Physician, who had been a Capuchine in _Portugal_. During the tedious Siege of _Candia_, the _Vizir_, what with the melancholy, and what with the ill Air of the Camp, finding himself much indispos'd, sent for a _Christian_ Physician _Signior Massalins_, a subject of the Republick of _Venice_, but Married to a _Greek_ Woman, by whom he had several Children, who was our Neighbour at _Pera_, an experienc'd able Man, to come speedily to him, and made him a Present of about a thousand Dollars, in order to fit himself for the Voyage and bear the expence of it. By this worthy Gentleman's Care, he recovered his Health, and would not permit him to depart, till after the surrendry of that City, which might be about seven Months after his Arrival there, treating him in the mean while with all imaginable Respect. During our short stay at _Bursia_, one of our _Janizaries_ accidentally discoursing with a _Turk_ about us, whom they knew to be _Franks_, told him that there was a Physician in the Company, who had been lately at the Grand _Signior_'s Court at _Saloniki_ with the _English_ Ambassador, and was now upon his return from _Constantinople_ to _Smyrna_, where he lived. This presently took vent, and the _Turks_ thought that they had got a Man among them, that could Cure all Diseases Infallibly; for several immediately came to find us out in behalf of themselves or their Sick Friends, and one of the most considerable Men upon the Place, desir'd the Doctor to go to his House to visit one of his Women Sick in Bed, who being permitted to feel her naked Pulse (for usually they throw a piece of fine Silk or Curl over their Womens Wrists at such times) soon discovered by that and other Symptoms and Indications of her Distemper, that opening a Vein would presently give her Ease and recover her: which he did accordingly; for which he received an embroidered Handkerchief instead of a Fee, and gained the Reputation of having done a mighty Cure.

They have little of Ingenious or Solid Learning among them; their chief Study, next to the _Alcoran_, being metaphysical Niceties about the Attributes of _God_, or else the Maintenance of other odd speculative Notions and Tenets, derived down to them from some of their famed Masters and Holy Men, whom they pretend to follow. Their Knowledge of the motion of the Heavens, for which the _Arabians_ and the other Eastern Nations have been so deservedly famous, as their Astronomical Tables of the Longitude and Latitude of the fixed Stars, and of the appulse of the Moon to them, fully evince, is now very mean, and is chiefly studied for the use of Judiciary Astrology. The great Instrument they make use of is an Astrolabe, with which they make very imperfect Observations, having no such thing as a Quadrant or Sextant, much less a Telescope, or any mechanical Engine, to direct and assist them in their Calculation. Their Skill in _Geography_ is as inconsiderable; I remember I heard the Captain Bassa, whom they stile Admiral of the Black and White Seas, meaning the _Euxine_ and the _Mediterranean_, ask this silly Question; whether _England_ were out of the Streights? and at another time the _Caymican_ or Governour of _Constantinople_, hearing that _England_ was an Island, desired to know, how many Miles it was about, in order, we supposed, to make an estimate of our King's Greatness and Strength by the extent and compass of it.

One of the great Astrologers of _Constantinople_, having heard that I had a pair of Globes in my Chamber, made me a Visit on purpose to see their contrivance, being introduced by a worthy Gentleman of our own Nation. After the first Ceremonies were over, I took my Terrestrial Globe, and rectified it to the position of the Place, and pointed to the several Circles both without and upon it, and told him in short the several uses of them: Then shewed him how _Constantinople_ bared from _Candia_ at that time Besieged, _Cair_, _Aleppo_, _Mecca_, and other chief Places of the Empire, with the other Parts of the World: At which he was mightily surprized to see the whole Earth and Sea represented in that Figure and in so narrow a compass, and pleased himself with turning the Globe round several times together. Afterwards I set before him the Celestial Globe, and rectified that, and shewed him how all the noted Constellations were exactly described, and how they moved regularly upon their Poles, as in the Heavens; some rising, and others setting, some always above the Horison, and others always under, in an oblique Sphere, and particularly what Stars would rise that Night with us at such an Hour; the Man seemed to be ravished with the Curiosity of it, turning this Globe also several times together with his Finger, and taking a mighty Pleasure in viewing the motion of it: and yet this silly Animal past for a Conjurer among the _Turks_, and was look'd upon as one that could foretel the events of Battels, the fates of Empires, and the end of the World.

They have no Genius for Sea-Voyages, and consequently are very Raw and Unexperienc'd in the Art of Navigation, scarce venturing to Sail out of Sight of Land. I speak of the natural _Turks_, who Trade either into the _Black Sea_, or some part of the _Morea_, or between _Constantinople_ and _Alexandria_; and not of the Pyrats of _Barbary_, who are for the most part Renegado's, and learn'd their Skill in Christendom, which they exercise so much to the Terror and Damage of it. A _Turkish_ Compass consists but of eight Points, the four Cardinal and four Collateral; they being at a mighty Loss how to Sail by a side Wind, when by hauling their Sails sharp, they might lie their Course, and much more, when they are in the Winds Eye, not knowing how to make Tacks and Bords, but choose rather to make hast into some Neighbouring Port, 'till the Wind blows fair. An _English_ and _Turkish_ Vessel both bound for the Bay of _Saloniki_, at the time of the Grand Signior's being there, past together out of the _Hellespont_; but foul Weather happening, the _Turks_ got into _Lemnos_; while our Men kept at Sea and pursued their Voyage, and after three Weeks stay, returned back to us, observing in their way, that the _Turks_ remained in the same place where they left them, for want of a Fore-Wind to put to Sea in.

They trouble not themselves with reading the Histories of other Nations or of antient times, much less with the Study of _Chronology_, without which, History is very lame and imperfect; which is the cause of those ridiculous and childish Mistakes, which pass current and uncontradicted among them. For instance, they make _Job_ one of _Solomon_'s Judges and (_Iscander_) _Alexander_ the great Captain General of his Army. They number _Philip_ of _Macedon_ among the Ancestors of our _Blessed Saviour_, and believe that _Sampson_, _Jonas_, and St. _George_ were his Contemporaries. In this they are more excusable then their false Prophet _Mahomet_, who in his _Alcoran_ has perverted several Historical Notices in the Writings of the Old Testament, and is guilty of vile and absurd Pseudo-chronismes. To remedy this defect, of which he was very conscious, and the better to understand the States of _Christendom_, and the particular Kingdoms and Republicks of it, the late Great and Wise _Vizir_, _Achmet_, made his Interpreter _Panagiotti_, a Learned _Greek_, at leisure Hours, even at the Siege of _Candia_, as well as at other times, read several ancient Histories to him, and render them _Ex-tempore_ into the _Turkish_ Language, and particularly _Blaeus Atlas_, with which he was mightily pleased, and made great use of, and truly gained the Reputation of a solid and judicious States-man, as well as Souldier among the _Christian_ Ministers, who in the ordinary course of their Negotiations apply'd themselves to him.

Tho' their Year be according to the course of the Moon, and so the _Turkish_ Months run round the civil Year in a Circle of thirty three Years and a few odd Days, yet they celebrate the _Neuruz_, which signifies in the _Persian_ Tongue the New Year, the twenty first Day of _March_ (on which Day the vernal Equinox was fixed by the _Greeks_ and other Oriental _Christians_, in the time of the Emperor _Constantine_, who made no Provision for the προήγεσις ἰσημερινὴ, or Precession, which in process of Time the inequality between the Civil and Astronomical Year must necessarily produce) at which time the _Cadyes_ and other annual Magistrates, and Farmers of the Customs take Place, and reckon to that Day twelve Month again.

In their civil Deportment and Behaviour one towards another, the left Hand is the more Worthy and Honourable Place, except among their Ecclesiasticks; and the Reason they alledge is, because they Write from the right Hand, and the Sword is worn on the left Side, and so is more at his disposal, who walks on that Hand. The chief _Vizir_ accordingly in the _Divan_ sits at the left Hand of the _Mufty_, each maintaining their Right of Precedence according to this way of decision.

In their Moschs they sit without any distinction of degrees.

Some of the more zealous _Turks_ cause to be engraven on their Scymitars and Bucklers a Sentence out of the sixty first _Surat_, which is concerning Fighting or Battle-array, and contains Incouragements to Fight in the _Way and Paths of God_, as the Impostor Words it; for which he assures them, besides assistance from Heaven to help them to get the Victory over their Enemies, and that _God will Pardon their Sins and bring them to Paradice_. Thus spirited with Zeal, a _Turk_ lays about him with Fury, when he is a fighting, and seems ambitious of dying to gain the delights of Paradice, at least indifferent whether he dies or lives.

The _Turks_ are as to their Temper serious, or rather inclining to morosity, seldom Laughing, which is accounted an argument of great Vanity and Lightness. They perform the Exercises, which they use in the way of Diversion, as Shooting and Hunting, with a great deal of gravity, as if they designed them more for Health than for Pleasure; and this too but seldom. The better and richer sort, who have nothing to do, sitting all Day at Home, lolling upon a Sofa or rais'd Place in their Rooms, and taking Tobacco, which their Slaves fill and light for them: And if they retire in the Summer or Autumn, for a Week or Fort-night to some convenient Fountain in a Wood with their Women, it is chiefly to enjoy the Refreshments of the cool Air. In the times of Triumph indeed for some great Success obtained against the _Christians_, when the Shops are open for three Nights together, and hung with Lights, as well as the Spires of the Moschs in curious Figures, they are guilty of extravagant Mirth, running up and down the Streets in Companies, and sometimes Singing and Dancing after their rude way; but this fit being over, they soon return to their former Melancholy. In the Coffee-Houses where they use to resort to Tipple, there is usually one hired by the Owners to read either an idle Book of Tales, which they admire as Wit, or filthy obscene Stories, with which they seem wonderfully affected and pleased, few of them being able to Read. These are the Schools, which they frequent for their Information, tho' in times of War, when things went ill with them, their Discourses would be of the ill Government; and the Grand Signior himself and his chief Ministers could not escape their Censures, which manifestly tending to Sedition, and to the heightning of their Discontents by their mutual Complaints, and by this free venting of their Grievances during the War at _Candia_, the Wise Vizir seeing the evil Consequences that would follow, if such Meetings and Discourses were any longer tolerated, Commanded, that all the publick Coffee-houses should be shut up in _Constantinople_ and several other great Cities of the Empire, where the Malcontents used to rendezvouz themselves, and find fault upon every ill Success and Miscarriage with the administration of Affairs.

The custom of the _Turks_ to salute the Emperor or the _Vizir Bassa_'s with loud Acclamations and Wishes of Health and long Life, when they appear first in their Houses or any publick Place, is derived from the _Greeks_, who took it from the _Romans_. This was done by them in a kind of Singing Tone; whence _Luitprandus_ Bishop of _Cremona_ tells us, that in a certain Procession (προέλυσις) at which he was present, they Sang to the Emperor _Nicephorus_ πολλὰ ἔτη that is, many Years, (which _Codinus_, who lived just about the taking of _Constantinople_, by the _Turks_, expresses τὸ ψάλλειν τὸ πολυχρόνιον or by τὸ πολυχρονίζειν and the wish or salute by πολυχρόνισμα) and at Dinner the _Greeks_ then present wish'd with a loud Voice to the Emperor and _Bardas_, _Ut Deus annos multiplicet_, as he Translates the _Greek_.

The _Turkish_ Coin in it self is pitiful and inconsiderable, which I ascribe not only to their want of Bullion, but to their little Skill in matters relating to the Mint. Hence it comes to pass that Zecchines and Hungars for Gold, and _Spanish_ Dollars and Zalotts for Silver stampt in _Christendom_ pass current among them, most of the great Payments being made in them, they not caring either through Ignorance or Sloth to follow the Example of the _Indian_ or _Persian_ Emperors, who usually melt down the _Christian_ Mony imported by the Merchants into their several Countries, and give it a new Stamp. The most usual pieces are the Sheriphi of Gold, somewhat less in value than a _Venetian_ Zecchine, and Aspers; ten of which are equal to six Pence _English_, and some few three Asper Pieces. A Mangur is an ugly old Copper Piece, eight of which make but one Asper, and is not I think a _Turkish_ Coin, but rather _Greek_. They have no Arms upon their Coin, only Letters embossed on both sides, containing the Emperor's Name, or some short Sentence out of the _Alcoran_.

The _Turks_ look upon Earthquakes as Ominous, as the vulgar do upon Eclipses, not understanding the Philosophy of them. During my stay in _Constantinople_, which was above 2 Years, there hapned but one, which was _October 26. 1669._ about six a Clock in the Morning a stark Calm preceeding. It lasted very near a Minute, and we at _Pera_ and _Galata_ were as sensible of it, as those who were on the other side of the Water; but praised be God nothing fell, and we were soon rid of the Fears in which this frightful Accident had cast us, being in our Beds, and not able by reason of the Surprize in so little a space to have past through a Gallery down a pair of Stairs into the Court, if we had attempted it. The _Turks_ made direful Reflexions on it, as if some Calamity would inevitably fall upon the Empire, quickly forgetting the great Triumphings and Rejoycings which they exprest but a few Days before for the Surrendry of _Candia_. In the Year 1668. in _August_, the Earth shook more or less for forty-seven Days together in the lesser _Asia_ at _Anguri_ (_Ancyra_), and for fifteen at _Bacbasar_, as we heard from a _Scotch_ Merchant, who liv'd there: And particularly, that at this latter Place on the second of _August_, between three and four of the Clock in the Afternoon it lasted for a quarter of an Hour; several Houses were overthrown, and some hundreds of Chimneys fell (it being a very populous Town) and yet there were but seven kill'd. The trembling being so violent, both _Turks_ and _Christians_ forsook their Houses, and betook themselves to the Fields, Vineyards, and Gardens, where they made their Abode for several Days.

Their Punishments are very severe, this being judg'd the most effectual way to prevent all publick Disorders and Mischiefs. They use no great Formality in their Processes: If the Criminal be taken in the Fact, and the Witnesses ready and present to attest it, and sometimes if there be but probable circumstances, without full Conviction, condemn him; and soon after Sentence, sometimes an Hour, or less, hurry him away to Execution. For an ordinary Crime, hanging is the usual Death: But for Robbery and Murder, committed upon the High Way by such as Rob in Parties and alarm whole Provinces, or for Sacriledge, or for any hainous Crime against the Government, either Gaunching or Excoriation, or cutting off the Legs and Arms, and leaving the Trunk of the Body in the High Way, or Empaling, that is, thrusting an Iron Stake through the Body out under the Neck or at the Mouth; in which extreme Torment the miserable Wretch may live two or three Days, if the Guts or the Heart happen not to be wounded by the pointed Spike in its Passage. This Punishment seems to have been in use among the _Romans_, _Seneca_'s Epist. 14. _Cogita hoc loco carcerem, & cruces, & eculeos, & uncum, & adactum per medium hominem, qui per os emergat, stipitem_: and so in his Book _De Consolatione ad Marciam cap._ 20. _Ali capite conversos in terram suspendere: Alii per obscena stipitem egerunt: Alii brachia patibulo explicuerunt._ Murder is seldom Pardon'd, and especially if the Relations of the Murder'd Person demand Justice.

The Circumcision, tho' it be a Sacred Right, is perform'd in their private Houses, and never in the Moschs.