Chapter IV: Part 4

This is so like the preceeding, that I thought I might fairly take the Liberty to make these Additions to it. And what we may Collect from both, and divers others of a like Import, is, That as the State, the Senate, and People, did sometimes Honour those that had been in Publick Trust, with Inscriptions upon these Pillars: So when this was not done by them, private Persons had the Liberty to do the same for their Friends. And I shall give you an Instance by and by of one Engraven by a Husband in Memory of his Wife. Upon several of these Pillars are little Pedestals jetting out about the middle of them, sometimes one way only, and sometimes more, which seem to have been the Bases or standing Places of Statues. But none of these are remaining; neither is it to be expected they should, in a place which has been so long in the Hands of the _Turks_. On these Pedestals we saw many Inscriptions, sometimes when there were none upon the Body of the Pillar, and sometimes when there were. As for Instance this that follows upon the Pedestal, thus.

ΣΕΠΤΙΜΙΟΝ ΑΙΡΑΝΗΝ ΟΔΑΙΝΟΘΟΥ ΤΟΝ ΛΑΜΠΡΟΤΑΤΟΝ ΣΥΝΚΛΗΤΙΚΟΝ. And upon the Body of the Pillar this Imperfect one; which I dare not venture to fill up, but shall give it you as we found it.

ΕΞΑ......ΝΤΩΝ ΑΥΡΗΛΙ.....Ρ ΗΛΙΟΔΩΡ..... ΣΤΡΑΤΙΩΤΗΣ ΛΕ.......ΚΗΣ ΤΩΝ ΠΑΤΡΩΝ ΤΕΙΜΗΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΥΧΑΡΙΣΤΙΑΣ ΧΑΡΙΝ ΕΤΟΥΣ ΓΞΦ.

We see they esteemed it very Honourable to have their Memories preserved after this manner; but it is but little Knowledge of them we can get from hence, save now and then the Time when they lived. As here, 563 Years after the Death of _Alexander_ reach to the Year of our Lord 239. Another Inscription in the same Piazza was thus.

Η ΒΟΥΛ[Η ΚΑΙ Ο ΔΗ]ΜΟΣ ΣΕΠΤΙΜΙΟΝ ΤΟΝ ΚΡΑΤΙΣΤΟΝ Ε[ΠΙΤΡΟΠΟΝ Σ]ΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ ΔΟΥΚΗΝ[ΑΡΙΟΝ] ....ΕΟΔΟΤΗΝ ΤΗΣ ΜΗΤ[ΡΟΚΟΛΩ]ΝΕΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΑΝΑΚΟΜΙΣΑ(ΝΤΑ Τ)ΑΣ ΣΥΝΟΔΙΑΣ ΕΞ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΜΑΡΤΥΡΗΘΕΝΤΑ ΥΠΟ ΤΩΝ ΑΡΧΕΜΠΟΡΩΝ ΚΑΙ ΛΑΜΠΡΩΣ ΣΤΡΑΤΗΓΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΑΓΟΡΑΝΟΜΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΤΗΣ ΑΥΤΗΣ ΜΗΤΡΟΚΟΛΩΝΕΙΑΣ ΚΑΙ ΠΛΕΙΣΤΑ ΟΙΚΟΘΕΝ ΑΝΑΛΩΣΑΝΤΑ ΚΑΙ ΑΡΕΣΑΝΤΑ ΤΗ ΤΕ ΑΥΤΗ ΒΟΥΛΗ ΚΑΙ ΤΩ ΔΗΜΩ ΚΑΙ ΝΥΝΕΙ ΛΑΜΠΡΩΣ ΣΥΜΠΟΣΙΑΡΧΟΝ ΤΩΝ ΤΟΥ ΔΙΟΣ ΒΗΛΟΥ ΙΕ[Ρ]ΩΝ ΤΕΙΜΗΣ ΕΝΕΚΕΝ ΕΤ..... ΞΑΝΔΙΚΩ.

This affords a sufficient confirmation of what I before observed, that these were Honorary Inscriptions in Memory of those that had behaved themselves well in Publick Offices; of which we have several mentioned here, whereof some are very well known, but the others not easie to be met with in Books. By the Word ΜΗΤΡΟΚΟΛΩΝΕΙΑΣ, we may be assured that though the City was reduced by the _Romans_ into the form of a Colony, yet it had a peculiar mark of Honour set upon it, to signifie that it was the chief of their Colonies in these Oriental Parts. That the Authority also of their Senate and People was continued to them. And besides that there was a Society of Men, either Curators of the Temple of _Jupiter Belus_ (to whom the Temple before described perhaps was dedicated,) or Overseers of the Sports and Festivals that were celebrated in Honour of him; of which Sodality this _Septimius_ was, when this Inscription was made, a _Symposiarch_, perhaps their Chief and Governour. By this too we find they did not wait for the Deaths of those they thus honoured, before they provided for the Preservation of their Memories; but Famous Men were thus Registered for After-Ages even while they were alive. Upon one of these Pedestals before described, not far from the former, was the following Inscription; which I valued the more for the little remainder it has preserved of the Name of _Palmyra_, by which the Place was known to the _Romans_.

...ΥΠΙΛΙΟΝ ΟΥΟΡΩΔΗΝ [ΣΥΝΚΛ]ΗΤΙΚΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΒΟΥΛΕΥΤΗΝ ΠΑΛΜΥΡΗΝΟΝ ΒΗΛΑ ΚΑΒΟΣΑΡΣΑ ΤΟΝ ΦΙ[ΛΟΝ] ΤΕΙΜΗΣ ΧΑΡΙΝ ΕΤΟΥΣ Ο Φ.

[Sidenote: The Banquetting-House.]

The upper end of this spacious Piazza was shut in by a row of Pillars, standing somewhat closer than those on each side; and perhaps there might have been a kind of Banquetting-House above, but now no certain Footsteps thereof remain. But a little farther to the left Hand, and, it may be, continued with the former Walk, lie the Ruins of a very stately Building, which I am apt to believe might have been for such an use. 'Tis built of better Marble, and has an Air of Delicacy and Exquisiteness in the Work, beyond what is discernable in the Piazza. The Pillars which supported it are of one entire Stone; and on one of them that is fallen down, but so firm and strong that it has received no Injury thereby, we measured, and found 22 Foot in length, and in compass 8 Foot and 9 Inches. Among these Ruins we found the only _Latin_ Inscription we saw in the Place, and that so imperfect, there is but little of it Intelligible.

_......es Orbis & Propagatores Generis Humani D. D. N. N. _Diocletianus_ ............ssimi Impp. Et _Constantius_ & _Maximianus_ Nobb. Cæs. Castra feliciter condiderunt._

And upon the same Stone a little lower,

_........ntes _Ossiano Hieroclete_, V. P. Præs. Provinciæ D. N. M. O. Eorum._ The Name of _Maximianus Hercules_, who was Partner in the Empire with _Dioclesian_ which should have followed in the Inscription, seems to have been on purpose scratch'd out, and defaced, for what reason I cannot guess. The rest is lost by the breaking of the Stone.

[Sidenote: The Palace.]

In the West side of the great Piazza are several openings for Gates leading into the Court of the Palace: Two whereof, one would easily believe when they were in their Perfection, were the most Magnificent and Glorious in the World, both for the Elegancy of the Work in general, and particularly for those stately Porphyry Pillars with which they were adorned. Each Gate had four, not standing in a Line with the others of the Wall, but placed by couples in the Front of the Gate, facing the Palace, two on one Hand, and two on the other. Of these remain two entire, and but one standing in its place. They are about 30 Foot in length, and 9 in circumference; of a Substance so exceeding hard, that it was with great difficulty we broke off a few shivers to bring home with us for a pattern of the Stone, the Art of making which, I think is quite lost. We saw several other broken pieces of Porphyry, but neither of so accurate a Mixture and Composition, nor so large as the former. The hard Fate of one I could not but lament, when I saw it debased to support the corner of a little Hut, scarce good enough for a Dog-Kennel, or a Hogsty. The Palace it self is so entirely ruined, that no Judgment can be made what it was in its Ancient Splendor, either for the Figure or Workmanship thereof. There is only here and there a broken piece of a Wall remaining, beat into pieces by Violence, and consumed by Time to that degree, that without the help of Tradition we could hardly be well assured, that a Royal Palace did once fill that Space. We may guess however that it fronted the Famous Piazza before mentioned, and was surrounded with rows of Pillars of different Orders, many of which are still standing, some plain, and some wrought and channell'd, as those immediately encompassing the Temple. And upon those little Pedestals which stood out of the middle of some of them, I observed several Inscriptions, but could not conveniently take more than one, which together with the Pillar that supported it was fallen to the Ground. 'Twas this.

ΜΑΡΘΕΙΝ ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΚΑΠΑΔΗΤΟΥ ΟΥΑΒΑΛΛΑΘΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΣΥΜΩΝΟΥ ΣΟΡΑΙΧΟΣ ΑΙΡΑΝΟΥ ΑΝΗΡ ΑΥΤΗΣ ΜΝΗΜΗΣ ΕΝΕΚΕΝ ΜΗΝΕΙ ΔΥΣΤΡΩ ΤΟΥ Ϟ Υ ΕΤΟΥΣ.

If the rest were of a like Nature with this, we have lost no great matter by not taking them, this being only a Memorial, which a kind Husband caused to be set up in Honour of his Wife. The Month _Dystrus_, answers our _March_, and the Year 490 from the Death of _Alexander_ the Great, the Year of our Lord 166.

I omitted to mention before, that under the long Walk runs a Current of hot Sulphureous Waters; and there is a Well and other Passages down to them. But whatever they may have been of old, they are not now so convenient as another about half a Mile Westward from hence; where there is a very good Descent into the Water, and it is still used by the People to Bath in. Near to which, upon the Pedestal of a broken Pillar, (or perhaps it might be an Altar) remains this following Inscription.

ΔΙΙ ΥΨΙΣΤΩ ΜΕΓΙΣΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΕΠΗΚΟΩ ΒΩΛΑΝΟΣ ΖΗΝΟΒΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΑΙΡΑΝΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΟΚΙΜΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΑΘΘΑ ΕΠΙ ΜΕΛΕΤΗ ΣΟΗ ΑΙΡΕΘΕΙΣ _ΕΦΚΑΣ_ ΠΗΓΗΣ ΥΠΟ ΙΑΡΙΒΩΛΟΥ ΘΕΟΥ ΤΟΝ ΒΩ [forsan ΒΩΜΟΝ] ΕΞ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕΝ ΕΤΟΥΣ Δ Ο Υ ΜΗΝΟΣ YΠΕΡΒΕΡΕΤΑΙΟΥ Κ.

I am pretty confident that the Word I have mark'd with a Line under it, is rightly taken, and therefore know not what to guess it to be, unless the proper Name of the Fountain. And upon that Supposition the Inscription is easily Intelligible, shewing that _Bolanus_, Son of _Zenobius_, &c. being elected Overseer or Curator of this Fountain, under _Jaribolus_, built this Altar to _Jupiter_, in the Year of _Alexander_ 474. _i. e._ of our Lord 150. and on the 20_th_ of _October_, if the last _Kappa_ be a Numeral, as I suppose it must. But who this _Jaribolus_ was, on whom they bestow, as generally upon the _Roman_ Emperors, whose Names occur in the Inscriptions, the Title of ΘΕΟΣ, is not so facile a Conjecture. They were under the _Parthians_, before the _Romans_ fell in amongst them; but the Date shews this to be after the time of _Hadrian_, and so after their coming. Nay, and in an Inscription before mentioned, which is of a later Date than this by 88 Years, we have the Name of the same Person. Hot Sulphureous Baths are things very frequent in this Country; and thence it was that it obtained the Name of _Syria Salutifera_. The scent of the Waters here is much like those of _Bath_ in _England_, but not so strong, neither is the Taste so offensive. On the contrary, when they have run so far from the Fountain, as to become cold, they are very potable, and are the only Waters the Inhabitants use. But we, during our stay there, sent to a Fountain of very excellent Water, about an hour distant from the City.

[Sidenote: The little Temple.]

On the East side likewise of the long Piazza stands, if I may use such an Expression, a Wood of Marble Pillars, some perfect, and others deprived of their beautiful Capitals; but so scattered and confused, that it is not possible to reduce them into any Order, so as to conjecture to what they anciently served. In one place are Eleven together in Square after this manner

. . . .
. .
. .
. . .

paved at the bottom with broad flat Stone, but without any Roof or Covering. And at a little distance from that stands the Ruins of a small Temple, which by the remains seems to have been for the Workmanship very curious: But the Roof is wholly gone, and the Walls very much defaced and consumed with Time. Before the Entrance which looks to the South, is a Piazza supported by six Pillars, two on one Hand of the Door, and two on the other, and at each end one. And the Pedestals of those in the Front have been filled with Inscriptions, both in _Greek_ and the other Language; but they are now so obliterated and worn out, as not to be Intelligible. The most perfect was this that follows.

ΜΑΛΕΝΤΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΑΓΡΙΠΠΑΝ ΙΑΡΑΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΡΑΑΙΟΥ ΓΡΑΜΜΑΤΕΑ ΓΕΝΟΜΕΝΟΝ ΤΟ ΔΕΥΤΕΡΟΝ ΕΠΙΔΗΜΙ[Α] ΘΕΟΥ ΑΔΡΙΑΝΟΥ ΑΛΙΜΜΑ ΠΑΡΑΣΧΟΤΑ ΞΕΝΟΙΣ ΤΕ, ΚΑΙ ΠΟΛΕΙΤΑ[ΙΣ]...... And a little below were these straggling Letters visible.

ΕΝΗ....Ν ΥΠΗΡΕΤΗΣΑΝΤΑ ΤΗΤ.... ΣΤΡΑΤΕΥΜΑ ΤΟΥ ... ΥΠΟ....ΗΚΑΙ.....ΤΟΝ ΝΑΟΝ ΤΟΝ....ΔΙΟΣ....ΝΤΩΤ......

I should have imagined the ΚΑΙ to have been a Copulative, and the second Name _Agrippa_ distinct from the former, but that the Words following in the Singular Number, will not admit of such a Construction. The Person then in Memory of whom this Inscription was made, must have been named _Malentus Cæagrippa_, who bearing such an Office as Scribe, or the like, in the Expedition of _Adrian_ the Emperor, performed an Act of Publick Benificence and Generosity, both to Strangers and Citizens, denoted by the Word[16] ΑΛΙΜΜΑ, or ἄλειμμα, which signifies Unction. Perhaps he distributed amongst them Sweet Oyls, to be used in or after their Bathings. 'Tis pity what follows is so imperfect; and especially that we cannot find out the Date: For that might have directed us to the precise time of _Hadrian_'s Expedition into these Oriental Parts, where he made great Conquests, and enlarged the Bounds of the _Roman_ Empire.

[Sidenote: The Sepulchers.]

But as great a Curiosity as any were their Sepulchers, being Square Towers, four or five Stories high, and standing on both sides of a hollow way, towards the North part of the City. They stretch out in length the space of a Mile, and perhaps formerly might extend a great way further. At our first view of them, as we entred the place, we could not conjecture what they were; some thought them the Steeples of ruined Churches, and were in hopes we should have found some footsteps of Christianity here. Others took them to have been Bastions, and part of the Old Fortifications, tho' there is not so much as any Foundation of a Wall to be seen. But when we came a Day or two after, more curiously to enquire into them, we quickly found their use. They were all of the same Form, but of different Splendor and Greatness, according to the Circumstances of their Founders. The first we viewed was entirely Marble; but is now wholly in Ruins, and nothing but a heap of broken Stones, among which we found the pieces of two Statues, one of a Man, and another of a Woman, cut in a sitting, or rather leaning posture; and the Heads and part of the Arms of both being broken off, but their Bodies remaining pretty entire; so that we had the Advantage of seeing their Habits, which appeared very Noble, but more approaching the _European_ Fashion, than what is now in use in the East; which inclined me to believe they might be _Romans_. Upon broken pieces of Stone tumbled here and there, we found some as broken Inscriptions, but not affording any perfect Sense, they are not worth the Transcribing.

Many other Sepulchers there were, as much gone to decay as this, which therefore we past by, to go to two, which stood almost opposite to one another, and seemed most perfect of any, though not without marks of the _Turkish_ Malice. They are two square Towers, rather larger than ordinary Steeples, and five Stories high, the outside being of common Stone, but the Partitions and Floors within of good Marble; and beautified too with very lively Carvings and Paintings, and Figures both of Men and Women, as far as the Breast and Shoulders; but miserably defac'd and broken. Under these Statues, or by their sides, are in the unknown Character, the Names probably of the Persons there buried, or by them represented; or else some other Memorials of them. We entred one of these by a Door on the South side, from which was a Walk cross the whole Building just in the middle. But the Floor was broke up, and so gave us a sight of a Vault below, divided after the same manner. The Spaces on each Hand were again sub-divided into six Partitions by thick Walls, each Partition being capable of receiving the largest Corps: And piling them one above another, as their way appears to have been, each of those Spaces might contain at least six or seven Bodies. For the lowest, second and third Stories, those Partitions were uniform, and altogether the same; save from the second Floor, which answered the main Entrance, one Partition was reserved for a Stair-Case. Higher than this, the Building, being something contracted towards the top, would not afford space for the continuation of the same Method: Therefore the two uppermost Rooms were not so parted, nor perhaps ever had any Bodies lain in them. Unless it was that of the Founder alone, whose Statue wrapt up in Funeral Apparel, and in a lying Posture, is placed in a Nich, or rather Window in the Front of the Monument, so as to be visible both within and without. Near to this Statue was the following Inscription.

ΤΟ ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΕΚΤΙΣΑΝ ΕΛΑΒΗΛΕΣ ΜΑΝΝΑΙΟΣ ΣΟΧΑΕΙΣ ΜΑΛΧΟΣ ΟΥΑΒΑΛΛΑΘΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΑΝΝΑΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΕΛΑΒΗΛΟΥ ΑΥΤΩ ΚΑΙ ΥΙΟΙΣ ΕΤΟΥΣ ΔΙΥ ΜΗΝΟΣ ΞΑΝΔΙΚΟΥ.

'Tis a little doubtful whether ΑΥΤΩ should not rather be made ΑΥΤΟΙΣ; or else there must be a Fault in the Verb, and all those but the Names of one Person. The other Monument on the other side of the way is very much like this; only the Front and Entrance are towards the North, and 'tis not altogether so Polite, nor so well Painted. But the Carvings are as good, and it shews altogether as Stately and Magnificent as the former. Besides, it has the Advantage in Age of a whole Century of Years: As appears from the Date of the following Inscription. 'Tis placed above a Nich in the Front, adorned with handsom Borders and Cornishes; the place, doubtless, of some Statue, and probably that of the Founder.

ΜΝΗΜΕΙΟΝ ΑΙΩΝΙΟΝ ΓΕΡΑΣ ΩΚΟΔΟΜΗΣΕΝ ΓΙΧΟΣ ΜΟΚΙΜΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΚΑΙΛΚΙΑΛΣΙΣΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΜΑ......ΟΥ ΕΙΣΤΕ ΕΑΥΤΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΥΙΟΥΣ ΚΑΙ ΕΓΓΟΝΟΥΣ ΕΤΟΥΣ ΔΙΤ ΜΗΝΕΙ ΞΑΝΔΙΚΩ.

This is the most Ancient Inscription I met with in _Tadmor_, the 314th. Year from the Death of _Alexander_ the Great, preceding the Birth of our Saviour about Ten Years. The other also is between Twenty and Thirty Years before the Reign of _Hadrian_, and consequently before the _Romans_ got footing here. And from these sumptuous Structures, and these costly _Mausolæa_, we may reasonably conclude, they were a Potent and Opulent People, before they became subject to the _Romans_, and were not obliged to them for their Greatness.

And now I believe I have wearied you sufficiently by leading you up and down the Ancient and Famous City of _Tadmor_, and giving you so dry an Account of our Employment there. After 4 Days stay we returned, not the way that we came, but proceeding Eastward towards the River _Euphrates_. In our way to which, the third Day, passing though a Village called _Tieve_, upon a Stone set wrong End upwards, in the midst of the Wall of the Mosch, we met with the following Inscription.

ΔΙΙ ΜΕΓΙΣΤΩ ΚΕΡΑΥΝΙΩ ΥΠΕΡ ΣΩΤΗΡΙΑΣ ΤΡΑ: ΑΔΡΙΑΝΟΥ ΣΕΒ... ΤΟΥ ΚΥΡΙΟΥ ΑΓΑΘΑΝΓΕΛΟΣ ΑΒΙΛΗΝΟΣ ΤΗΣ ΔΕΚΑΠΟΛΕΟΣ ΤΗΝ ΚΑΜΑΡΑΝ ΩΚΟΔΟΜΗΣΕΝ ΚΑΙ ΤΗΝ ΚΛΙΝΗ.... ΕΞ ΙΔΙΩΝ ΑΝΕΘΗΚΕΝ ΕΤΟΥΣ ΕΜΥ ΜΗΝΟΣ ΛΩΟΥ.

And under this was another in the same Language and Character we had seen at _Tadmor_; I was surprized to find such an Inscription in this Place, nor can any way guess how they should come by it: And the mention of _Decapolis_ makes me still more in the Dark. If one might extend the Bounds of _Decapolis_, as some are said to have done, as far as _Cælosyria_, and comprize under this Name again all _Syria_, _Phænicia_ only excepted, then need it not be brought from elsewhere, but first set up in this Village. But this will not be allowed by those who make _Decapolis_ only a part of _Palestine_. The Matter of Fact it contains is only an Account of the Magnificence of this _Agathangelus Abilenus_, whoever he was; who for the safety of the Emperor _Hadrian_, erected at his own Charges, and Dedicated to _Jupiter_ the Thunderer, a Royal Banquetting-House, (for so I take [17]ΚΑΜΑΡΑ to signifie) and a Bed of State; for after ΚΛΙΝΗ there is doubtless a Letter omitted, and it ought to be ΚΛΙΝΗΝ. The Date 445 agrees to the Year of our Lord 123. which was the seventh of the Reign of _Hadrian_. And the Month ΛΩΟΣ is our _August_.

[Sidenote: _Arsoffa._]

The next Day we past by the Ruins of a large Monastery of the _Maronites_, as I guess it to have been by an Inscription we met with upon the Capitals of several Marble Pillars, which supported the middle Isle of a handsome Church, which was to this effect.

† ΕΠΙ ΣΕΡΓΙΟΥ ΕΠΙΣΚΟ. ΤΟΥ ΣΥΝΓΕΝ~ ΜΑΡΩΝΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΧΩΡΕΠΙΣΚΟ.

From thence we past on, and came the same Night to _Euphrates_, and having travelled two Days on the Banks of that Famous River, we came to the Tents of the King of the _Arabs_, who had furnish'd us with a Guide for our Voyage. With him we remained two Nights, and in two Days Travel more came back safe to _Aleppo_, having been out in the whole just 18 Days.

_The Reverend and Learned Author of this Account, cannot with Justice be censured, if some Minute Particulars of the History of this Place, have escaped his Memory, being obliged to write without recourse to the Books proper for his purpose, which were not to be had in that Country. We have since procured a Curious Prospect of these Noble Ruins, taken on the Place; which, with some further Remarks thereon, are here Published._

FOOTNOTES:

[14] This _Assyne_ was in the Year of our Lord 1693. Deposed by the _Turks_, and one _Dor_ advanced to fill his place; so that now he is constrained to live upon Rapine, being followed by a considerable Number of Men, who delight not to Labour, nor to live under any settled Government.

[15] 'Tis not improbable that ΟΛΟΓΕΣΙΑΣ might have been the Name of a Person. _Vologeses_ is a known Name in History among the _Parthian_ Kings; to which the other seems to bear a great Affinity.

[16] _Plin. Secun. Ep. l._ 2. Tells us of one, who was accused of an Illegal Exaction of Money from a Province, _Titulo Unguentarii_; now what was in that case unjustly exacted, might be in this a Voluntary Donation, not of the Province to the Governour, but of a great Man to the People. Or else _Unguentarium_ may be supposed to be a Donative, like _Clavarium_ or _Culinarium_, used sometimes by the _Romans_.

[17] This Word I find both in _Tacitus_ and _Strabo_, used for a kind of Ships or Boats, long, narrow, light, and capable of receiving 20, or at most 30 Men; but what they should do with Boats in an Inland Town, without either River or Lake near it, I cannot imagine. I rather adhere to the other signification.

_An Extract of the Journals of two several Voyages of the _English
Merchants_ of the Factory of _Aleppo_, to _Tadmor_, anciently
call'd _Palmyra_._

Our Merchants of this worthy Factory, being generally Men of more than ordinary Birth and Education, have not been wanting (as the intervals of leisure from their gainful Traffick would permit) to make Voyages of Curiosity, to visit the celebrated Remains of Antiquity in those Parts, whereby the once flourishing State of the World, under the _Roman Empire_, is abundantly evinced. And being inform'd by the Natives, that the Ruins of the City of _Tadmor_ were more considerable than any they had yet seen, they were tempted to enterprize this hazardous and painful Voyage over the _Desart_; but having been, by the perfidy of the _Arabs_, disappointed of their Desires in their first Attempt, they were obliged to defer their Curiosity, till they could better provide for their Security: whereof being assured, from the Confidence some of them had in the Friendship of _Assyne_ then King of the _Arabs_, they adventured again, in the Year 1691, and had full liberty to visit, observe and transcribe what they pleased.

What Account they there took, the Publick has already seen in our Last, since which, by the Favour of Mr. _Timothy Lanoy_ and Mr. _Aaron Goodyear_, two very Eminent Merchants, who were both in the first Voyage, we have received not only the Draught of the Prospect of those noble Ruins, taken upon the Place, (of which we here give a Copy,) but also the Journals of both the Voyages; which, for the Satisfaction of the Curious, we have thought fit to Publish.

_The first Voyage_, Anno 1678.

_July 18._ at Five in the Morning, we set out from _Aleppo_, being sixteen _English_; but with Servants and Mulettiers in all forty; and in four Hours and an half, travelling South by East, we arrived at a Village call'd _Cafferabite_, being at the edge of the Desart, here we reposed the rest of that Day.

_July 19._ we rose at one in the Morning, and directed our Course S. S. E. over the Desart, for a Fountain call'd _Churraick_; but our Guide losing his Way, there being no Path, 'twas near Noon before we found it: which made us doubt of our Safety. This Well has no Signs near it to discover it by. Here we pitch'd our Tents, and refresh'd our Selves and Horses; and the Water being of a Purgative Quality, made us some Diversion. In our way, we found two _Arabs_ with two Asses, one whereof carried Water and a little Bread, the other they rod on by turns; they had one Gun, with which they they shot Antelopes, the Bullet being a hard Stone broken round, and cased with Lead; they had on the Palms of their Hands, Elbows, Knees and Feet, some Antelope-Skin tied, that they may be able to creep the better on the Ground, to Shoot; one of the Asses walking by as a Stalking-horse, and the _Arab_ imitating the Cry of the Gazel till he get within Shot: These _Arabs_ are called _Selebee_. At the Well came to us some _Arabs_ that were making Ashes of the ordinary sort of Weeds call'd _Chuddraife_, _Ruggot_ and _Cuttaff_; these they cut and dry, and putting them into a Pit, set Fire to them, and the Ashes cake at the bottom. The Ashes they carry to _Eglib_ and _Tripoli_, to make Soap of: But the best sort of Ashes are made of the Weed _Shinon_, which grows about _Tadmor_, _Soukny_, _Tibe_ and _Yarecca_; it grows like Broom in _England_, and in Shape resembles Coral.

_July 20._ we rose at four in the Morning, and Travelling two Hours E. S. E. we arrived at _Andrene_, where we found the Ruins of two or three Churches, and of a great Town lying in a large Plain; where having tarried about an Hour and an half, and taken some fragments of Greek Inscriptions, which afforded no certain Sense, but yet were evidently Christian, we march'd again S. by E. and in about four Hours time came to a pleasant Aqueduct call'd _Sheck-alal_; this Aqueduct is cut through the main Rock, for a great way from the Mountains; and where it ends, the _Arabs_ have made a Garden, which afforded us Melons, Cucumbers, Purslain, _&c._ In a Grotto hard by, there dwelt an _Arab_ with his Family; he had a dozen _Buffalo's_, which they used both for their Milk, and to Plow the Ground, Sowing both Wheat, and Barly: Hither the _Arabs_ resort, when they have committed any Robbery about _Aleppo_, or _Hama_, and here they repose, and divide the Spoil.

_July 21._ we rose at four in the Morning, and riding two Hours South, we came to a Ruin call'd _Briadeen_; here we found the following Inscription on a Stone, good part in the Ground:

ΑΦΙΕΡΩΘΗ ΑΑΙΛΥΝΔΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΑΜΦ ΕΤΟΥΣ
ΔΙΑ ΜΑΤΕΡΝΟΥ ΚΑ(Ι Π)ΑΠΠΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΑΙΚΟΥ ΚΝΕΤΜΝ
-------- Υ -------- Ν

From hence going South-East, in four Hours more we came to a Well called _Costal_ (which signifies a _Spring in Arab_.) Most part of our way through the Desart we were troubled with _Rat-holes_ in great numbers, like Coneyboroughs, which by the sinking in of the Earth, very much incommoded our Horses and Mules. These _Rats_ have at the ends of their Tails a bush of Hair, and the _Arabs_ eat them all, excepting one part. From this Well we arose about four in the Afternoon, and began to ascend small Hills, covered with Trees, which, for the most part, were the small _Pistacho_'s which the _Arabs_ pickle with Salt; but eaten green, are good to quench Thirst. We travelled on three Hours up the Hills, where we pitch'd that Night, having no other Water but what we carry'd with us; and at Night we had a small Shower of Rain, a thing unusual in that Country at that time of the Year.

_July 22._ we rose by Two in the Morning, and Travelling E. S. E. we came by Eleven to a Well call'd _G'hor_, where we found it very Hot, and saw several prints of Horses Feet, so that we suspected some _Arabs_ had newly past that way.

_July 23._ we rose by One in the Morning, and Travelling most East, we came to a large Plain, where we saw before us, on a high Mountain, a great Castle, call'd by the _Arabs_ _Anture_. When we had travelled two or three Hours in this Plain, we espied an _Arab_ driving towards us a Camel, with his Launce, so fast, that he came on a round Gallop, and we supposed him sent as a Spy: being come up to us, he told us he was of _Tadmor_, and that his Prince, the _Emir Melkam_, had that Day made Friendship with _Hamet Shideed_ another Prince, and that together they had four hundred Men; so he kept us Company an Hour or two, and enquired of our _Mulettiers_ if we were not _Turks_ disguised, with intent to seize on _Melkam_; for we travelled with a _Bandiero_, the Impress being a _Hanjarr_ or _Turkish_ Dagger, and a Half-Moon. We told him we were _Franks_, which he could hardly believe, wondering that we travelled thus in the Desart, only out of Curiosity. Being come near to _Tadmor_, he went a little before us, and on a sudden run full speed towards the Ruins, we not endeavouring to hinder him. Our Guide told us he was gone to acquaint the _Arabs_ who we were, and that we ought to suspect and prepare for the worst; so we dismounted twenty of our Servants, each having a long Gun, and Pistols at his Girdle, and placed them abreast before us: we following at a little distance behind, on Horse-back, with Carbines and Pistols. In this order we proceeded, and came to a most stately _Aqueduct_, which runs under Ground in a direct passage five Miles, and is covered with an Arch of Bastard Marble all the Way, and a Path on both sides the Channel for two Persons to walk abreast; the Channel it self being about an _English_ Yard in breadth, and ¾ of a Yard in depth. At 20 Yards distance all the way are Ventiducts for the Air to pass, and the holes are surrounded with small Mounts of Earth to keep the Sand and Dust from falling down. We marched close by these Mounts, which might serve us for Defence, expecting every moment that the _Arabs_ would come to Assail us, having the disadvantage of Sun and Wind in our Faces: wherefore we Travelled hard to gain an Eminence where we might Post our selves advantageously, and stop and repose a little, to consider what we had to do. The _Arabs_ finding us to come on with this Order and Resolution, thought not fit to adventure on us, so we gained the Hill, from whence we might discern these vast and noble Ruins, having a Plain like a Sea for greatness to the Southwards of it. Here having refresh'd our Men, we fetch'd a little Compass and descended by the foot of a Mountain, on which stands a great Castle, but uninhabited. Here two _Arabs_ came to us with Lances, one being Chiah to _Melkam_, and we sent two to meet them; they gave the _Salam alika_, and ours returned the _Alica salam_, and advancing to our Company, told us the _Emir_ had understood of our coming, and had sent them to acquaint us that he was our Friend, and that all the Country was ours. We sent back with them our _Janizary_ and a Servant to visit the Prince in his Tents, which were in a Garden. In the mean time we dismounted at a watering Place amidst the Ruins, but did not unload till our _Janizary_ and Servant returned with the _Emir's Tescarr_, assuring us of Friendship and Protection, a Writing which the _Arabs_ were never known to violate before. With them came also one that belonged to the _Sheck_ of the Town, for whom we had Letters from _Useffe Aga_ the _Emeer_ of _Aleppo_. He desired us for greater Security to pitch our Tents under the Town Walls, which is in the Ruins of a great Palace, the Wall yet standing very high, the Town within but small, and the Houses excepting two or three no better than Hog-sties. So we pitched in a deep Sandy Ground where we found it exceeding hot. Here we waited till three of the Clock without eating any thing, expecting the _Sheck_ should have presented us according to the usual Custom of the _Turks_ to their Friends, and have given some answer to the Letters we brought him; but on the contrary we found by the gesture of the People, that we had Reason to suspect them. Hereupon two of our Company believing that the want of a present to the _Emir_ was the cause thereof resolved to adventure to give him a Visit, and taking the _Janizary_ and one Servant, they carried him a Present of two pieces of Red Cloath, and four of Green, and several other things: Being come he welcomed them into his Tent, and placed the one on his right Hand and the other on his left. _Melkam_ was a young Man, not above Five and Twenty, and well Featur'd, and a most Excellent Horse-man; _Hamet Shideed_, the other Prince, was more elderly, as about forty Years of Age, and was not in the Tent, but sat under a _Palm-Tree_ near it. He treated them with _Coffee_, _Camel's-flesh_ and _Dates_, and enquired of their Journey, and the Cause of their coming: They told him 'twas only Curiosity to see those Ruins; he said that formerly _Solomon Ibnel Doud_ Built a City in that Place, which being destroyed, was Built again by a strange People, and he believed, that we understanding the Writing on the Pillars, came to seek after Treasure, he having but six Moons before found a Pot of _Corra Crusses_. After this he went out of the Tent, leaving them smoaking Tobacco, to the _Janizary_ and Servant, and told them, that never till that Day any _Franks_ had been at that Place, and that now we knew the way through the Desert, we might inform the _Turks_ to their Ruin and Destruction, so that 'twould be convenient for them to destroy us all: But that we coming as Friends, he would only have 4000 Dollars as a Present, else he would hang them and the two _Franks_ up, and go fight the rest. This Message being brought them, they wish'd they had excus'd themselves from this Embassy, and answered, they could say nothing to that Demand, not knowing our Minds, but if he would permit them to go and speak with the rest, they would return an Answer. Hearing this, he threatened present Death, but at length gave leave to our _Janizary_ to carry us a Letter from them, wherein they shewed the danger they were in, and earnestly entreated us to redeem them, the Price set on them being 2000 Dollars, one half in Mony, the other half in Goods, as Swords, Cloaths, Tents, _&c._ which the _Emir_ promised to estimate at their Worth.

This Letter amazed us mightily, and a little before it arrived, we understanding a little, and fearing more ill Treatment to our Friends, were getting ready to free them or die with them. The Garden where _Melkam_ lay, was about half a Mile from the Tents, full of _Palm-Trees_, and had no Walls, but loose Stones piled up Breast high about them, so we designed to have gone suddenly and given two or three Volleys on them, e'er they could get to Horse; and the _Arab_ know not how to Fight on Foot. And though they bragg'd they had 400 Men, we supposed 200 might be the most, and they not all Lances. But on receipt of this Letter, and the Servants telling us that they would certainly be cut off, if we endeavoured their Rescue, we began to examin what Moneys we had, Cloaths and other Trade, and found we could not near make up that Sum. In this Confusion came two _Arabs_ to receive the things, and immediately Word was brought that the _Emir_ would come and Visit us; we sent him Word, that if he came with more than two followers, we would not admit him: so he came with 2 Servants only; and in conclusion, we made him up in Money and Goods to the Value of 1500 Dollars. He valuing our Things as we pleased; his Design being not so much to compleat the Sum, as to take from us all we had. After this, about Sun Set, he returned us our two Friends, when the _Sheck_ of the Town invited us to Lodge within the Town; which we found afterwards was with a design to have forced something from us: But we giving him to understand that the Emir had taken all already, and had left us only our Arms and the Cloaths on our Backs; which if they would have, they must Fight for: That Resolution daunted them, and away they went, promising us Barley for our Horses in the Morning. We kept good watch in the Night, and when Day broke, we began to consider how to clear our selves; we expected the Barly till Nine in the Morning, when it came, and the Emir himself came and gave us the good Morrow: We feared least they should pretend to stop some of us in the Gate-way, so we placed six of our Company to secure the Passage, 'till all the rest were got out, under pretence of taking an Inscription that was over the Gate. Being all got clear, we returned by the same way we came and arrived at _Aleppo_ _July 29._ in the Morning. This _Melkam_ told us, That if we had not submitted our selves to his Demands, he was resolved to Fight us after this Method: Loading 50 Camels with Baggs of Sand, and making small holes in the Baggs for the Sand to drop out, he would drive these Camels abreast upon us before the Wind, that the Sand might blow in our Eyes, and we spending our Bullets on the Camels, might so be easily overthrown; we answered, that we believed he would not venture his Camels and Horses to such a Combat. He wondered extreamly when we talk'd of Shooting Birds flying, and Hares running.

This and other the like Violences used by this _Arab_ Prince, made the _Bassa_ of _Aleppo_ resolve to destroy him; and not long after he cajoled him with the Hopes of being made King of the _Arabs_, and to draw him near the City, he vested and caressed some of his Followers: Which having its effect, the _Bassa_ surprized him in his Tents by Night, and soon after he was put to Death: This those People were willing to believe the effect of their so abusing the _English_, and might much contribute to the Security and good Usage they found, that went the second time on this Expedition.

We had not time to view these Ruins by reason of this usage, though perhaps we might with safety. We only took one of the Inscriptions as we past by, which was thus.

ΣΕΠΤΙΜΙΟΝ ΟΥΟΡΟΔΗΝ ΤΟΝ ΚΡΑΤΙΣΤΟΝ ΕΠΙΤΡΟΠΟΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΥ ΔΟΥΚΗΝΑΡΙΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΑΡ..ΑΠΗΤΗΝ ΙΟΥΛΙΟΣ ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΣ ΣΑΝΜΗΣ ΜΑΣΣΙΑΝΟΥ ΤΟΥ Μ..ΛΕΝΑΙΟΥ ΙΠΠΕΥΣ ΡΟΥΜΑΩΝ ΤΟΝ ΦΙΛΟΝ ΚΑΙ ΠΡΟΣΤΑΤΗΝ ΕΤΟΥΣ Η Ο Φ ΜΗΝΕΙ ΞΑΝΔΙΚΩ.

Wherein the principal difference is in the Word ἀραπήτην, which in the Account already Published is read ἀράπετην, which seems to signifie some peculiar Officer of the _Syrians_, as _Ducenarius_ of the _Latins_, which perhaps those skill'd in the Oriental Customs and Languages may be able to expound.

As far as we could conclude from our Journeys, and the Position of the Ways taken by two good Compasses, the Distance of _Tadmor_ from _Aleppo_ is about a 150 English Miles, and the Course S. S. E. or rather somewhat more Southerly, considering the Variation of the Compass, which is above a half a Point Westward in these Parts.

_The second Voyage_, Anno 1691.

We set out from _Aleppo_ for _Tadmor_ on _Michaelmas-day_, being in all, Masters and Servants, thirty Men, well armed, having obtained a Promise of Security from _Assyne_, then King of the _Arabs_, and one of his own People for a Guide. This Day our Road pointed S. b. E. and in four Hours we came to a Fountain call'd _Caphir-Abiad_, leaving Old _Aleppo_ about an Hour distant on the right Hand: Here we made but a very short stay, but proceeded to a better Fountain at the foot of a very high Hill, cover'd with loose Stones, the Ruins of a Village called _Broeder_, of which there was not one House remaining; and dining here, we advanced in an Hour and a quarter more, in the Afternoon, through a fertile open Place, to a Place called _Emghir_, famous for the best Wheat that is brought to _Aleppo_. This we made our first Stage; and mounting again in the Morning about five a Clock, in less than an Hour, past by an uninhabited Village, call'd _Urghee_, our Road pointing as before, through the fruitful Plain, even and pleasant; but when we came to ascend the Hills, where I reckon'd we entred the Desart, and were to take our leave of Mankind, at least of an inhabited Country for some Days, we had a troublesome Passage, over loose great Stones, without any appearance of a Road.

Our Guide had promised to conduct us through pleasant Groves and Forests; but no such thing appeared, unless we would bestow that Name upon low withered Shrubs that grew in the Way, only one Tree we saw, which was of good use to us, serving as a Land-mark; and when we were come up with it, being left at a little distance on the right Hand, we gain'd the Prospect of a remote ridge of Hills before us, and on the top of one of them an old Castle; this Castle, we were told, was known by the Name of _Gazar Ibn Wordan_; but what it anciently was, or in what Condition it is at present, I could not learn; therefore, not unwillingly, I turned my Eyes from it, to a little round Hill more on the left, by which we were to direct our Course, and about a quarter of an Hour from which stood a Sheck's House, call'd _Sheck Ailha_, where we were to bait, with a Well of Water by it, but such that we had but little _gusto_ to taste, though it served our Horses: All the Country hereabouts is stor'd with _Antelopes_, and there is a barbarous sort of People there, that have hardly any thing else to live upon, but what of these they can kill; and Necessity has taught them to be no mean Artists in their way, for they lie down behind the Stones, and as the poor harmless Creature passes, shoot them; and though their Guns be very ordinary, exceeding heavy and thick, with Match-Locks, yet are they such excellent Marks-men, that they kill many. That Morning we had Travelled about five Hours to reach _Sheck Ailha_'s; yet finding nothing to invite our stay there, (though there were four or five Tombs there not ill made, according to the _Turkish_ mode) about one a Clock we mounted again, bending to the S. E. or something more Easterly. In our way we had two remarkable Prospects, one on the right Hand, of the Ruins of an ancient City call'd _Andreen_, and sometimes _Londrine_, which we were told had been formerly inhabited by _Franks_, and that there were many Inscriptions there; but it was too far out of our way, and withal something too dangerous too, for us to take a view of them: The other, on the left Hand, was another Tree, not far from which our Guide assured us of good Water, where we designed to take up our Lodging; the hopes of the Water made us slight a Well we past by on the Road, at which afterwards we repented we had not stay'd; for when we came up with the Tree, from which we had declined a great way to the right, we found our Water still at a very great distance, and were constrained to take new Directions by a white chalky Hill, almost as far as we could see, and yet not much beyond the Place which was to be our Stage; on therefore we proceeded till Sun-set, very weary, and almost without hope of our coming to Water that Night, though at the same time near dead with Thirst; and which the more supriz'd us, our Guide was advanced a great way before, out of our sight, upon what design we knew not, but at his return, we found it was only to assure himself better of the way, and in an Hours time more he brought us to the side of a Bog, call'd by the Name of _Zerga_, where, such as it was, we found Water enough, but it was neither palatable nor wholsome, neither did the Ground seem proper to Sleep upon; yet we were forced to be content, there being no removing thence that Night.

_October 1._ We departed from _Zerga_, about two Hours before Sun-rise, and as soon as it was light, had the Prospect of a very high Hill, which was to be the bounds of our Travel that Day. To this we made as directly as we could look, finding nothing in our way observable either to arrest our curiosity, or to slacken our Pace, except a multitude of Holes made in the sandy Earth, by Rats, Serpents, and other Animals, which render'd our Riding a little troublesome; as we had found it upon the same Account the Afternoon before. About two Hours short of our Stage, we were shewn three little round Hills lying to the right in a direct line, known by the Name of _Tenage_; where we were told there was good Water, and it's for that reason only they deserve the notice of those that Travel through such a thirsty Desart. The Place to which we directed our Course was called _Esree_, where we arrived about eleven a Clock, and found to our great Satisfaction, that our Guide had not deceived us in his Promise of excellent Water: Here we could discern the Foundations of a spacious City, and a piece of a thick Wall, built of a chalky Stone, was standing: This we judged to be the remainder of a Castle situated on the side of the Hill, so as both to defend and command the City. On the top of the Hill, above the Castle, stands the Ruins of a Fabrick, in appearance very Ancient, built of very hard Stone, yet exceedingly worn by the Weather; 'tis of an oblong Figure, pointing near to the N. E. and S. W. with only one Door on the Easterly end, which was once adorned with extraordinary good Carvings, of which there are still some remains, but the greatest part is either worn away, or purposely defaced; and those marks of ancient Beauty that remain are very obscure, and difficultly discernable; the outside of the Walls is beautified with Pilasters quite round, with their Pedestals and Capitals regular and handsom; but the Roof is all fallen down, and within appears nothing which looks either great or beautiful. The Situation, and placing the Door, hinders one from conjecturing it to have been a Christian Oratory, or Chappel, and therefore in probability it must have been a Heathen Temple; and if so, then the piece of the Castle Wall being of a softer Stone, must be much more modern; the goodness of the Water brings the _Arabs_ (who rove up and down the Desart) and the _Turk-men_ frequently hither, which has occasion'd a great many Graves about the Temple; and some have had leisure, and, (which is more difficult to be imagin'd) skill enough to scratch in the Walls the first Letters of their Names, and many more in Arabick Characters, which we could make nothing of, no more than of an Arabick Inscription which lay hard by, but appeared not ancient.

_October_ the 2d. We departed from _Esree_, about an Hour, or an Hour and an half after Midnight, and in six Hours and an half arrived at two Wells, the Water 18 Fathom and 2 Foot deep, known by the Name of _Imp malcha Giub_: Through the greatest part of this Stage we had a broad beaten Road, and where that was not discernible, we guided our selves by a ridge of chalky Hills, under which the Wells lay; the Water we found exceeding bad, and of so noisome a Scent, that we could not endure it so much as at our Noses; which made our Guide laugh at us, who told us, the _Arabs_, and even the King himself used to drink freely of it; which, I am sure, our Horses would not do, though they were under a necessity of drinking that or none: For our selves we had brought from _Esree_ Water, sufficient for one Day at least. In our way hither we were shewn the true Plant which they burn for Soap-Ashes, which has no Leaves, but a soft juicy Stalk shooting into several Branches, and something resembling our Camphire, only it's more round than that; the Ashes likewise we saw, which were made not far from the Wells, which in burning run into Cakes, not much unlike the Cinders of a Forge, only they are heavier, and not so full of Pores, nor so hard as they are. In the Afternoon, we proceeded on our Voyage two Hours and an half, to a place called _Almyrrha_, passing rather between than over the Hills, though we had something of an ascent too; this we did to shorten our Stage the next Morning, for we were told before-hand we should find no Water upon those Mountains; so, for our Selves, we liv'd upon our old Stock, and our Horses were constrain'd to pass that Night without Water. Our Journy hitherto had been altogether Southerly, and but little varying to the Eastward of due South.