Chapter V: Part 5

_October_ the 3d. We mounted from _Almyrrha_ between five and six in the Morning, making to the point of a high ridge of Mountains, through an uneven Desart Way, frequently interrupted with Gutts and Channels, probably made by the descent of the Waters from the Hills, upon sudden Rains: We came to the ascent after about four Hours Travel, which we found not difficult; and when we were on the top, we had a pleasant Prospect of the Country, and what we rejoyced at most, we were shewn a little Hill, just behind which, we were told lay _Tadmor_. This Mountain was cover'd on both sides with great plenty of Turpentine-Trees, which was an Object very pleasing, having seen very few greens in our whole Journey: This Tree grows very thick and shady, and several of them we saw loaded with a vast abundance of small round Nut, the chief use whereof is to make Oil, though some eat them, and account them as great a Regalio as Pistaches; their outward Husk is green, and more Oily than that of Pistaches, and within a very thin Shell is contained a Kernel both in colour and relish very much resembling them; but those that eat them, seldom take the Pains to search for the Kernels, but eat Husk and Shell all together, which have no ungrateful Taste: From this Hill we had a tedious descent, and coming at the foot into a narrow Gut, winding this way and that between the Mountains, our Passage seemed very long, hot and tiresome; our want of Water however obliged us to proceed, whereof we now began to be in great necessity, especially for our Horses and Mules, who had none the Night before, nor none all that Day; with this we had hopes of being supplied two different ways; having had a shower of Rain the Night before, we hoped to have found Water standing in the hollows of the Rocks; but either the Rain had not reach'd so far, or not in such plenty as to fill those naturally hewed Cisterns: Our other expectation was from the Wells that were in the Road; but these our Guide advancing before and examining, met us with the unwelcome News, that they were all dried up, and the best Advice he could give us, was to pitch where we were, and content our selves with the remains of what we had brought two Days in our Vessels, till our Horses and Mules might be sent to a Fountain two Hours out of our way, and being watered there themselves, bring a fresh supply for us: This way, with some difficulty, we assented to, as more eligible, than weary as we were, to wander so far out of the Road, to have the same Ground to stage over again the next Morning: We resolved therefore to send our Guide, with one or two of our Servants, in search of the Water, and afterwards others with our Horses, while in the mean time we pitch'd our Tents, it being then about two a Clock in the Afternoon: As soon as they were gone, a small drizzling Rain, which we had about half an Hour, encreased to a very plentiful Shower, which put us upon producing all the Vessels we had to catch it as it fell from the Heavens, or ran down the Skirts of our Tents, our Horses at the same time greedily drinking it from the Ground; but we might have spared our Pains, for in less than half an Hours time, our Camp was in a manner a-float, and we were surrounded with Water not only sufficient for us, but for an Army of 20000 Men; those hollow Gutts which we passed over without the least appearance of moisture, were, by the Cataracts which descended from the Mountains, become Rivers; and our Guide with those Servants we had sent out, that before rode over it dry, it being swoln to such a Torrent, were put to some difficulty to repass it; so plentifully was God pleased to provide for us in our greatest streight; and which encreases both the Wonder and Mercy, the next Morning, all this great quantity of Water was past away, so that in about two Hour's Riding we could hardly perceive that there had been any Rain at all. This memorable Place is known by the Name of _Al-Wishal_.

_October_ the 4th. From _Al-Wishal_ we proceeded for _Tadmor_, some of the Ruins of which we perswaded our selves we could see the Day before; perhaps it might be the Castle, which is more than half an Hour's distance from the City; our way lay Southward, but the Gut in which we travelled would not permit us to keep a direct course: However, in about an Hour's Walk, we past by _Antor_ Mountains (our Guide call'd them _Toul Antor_) through a Gut or Rent, both sides of which so directly answered one to the other, they would tempt a Man to believe they were separated by Art, for an entrance into the Country; but it must have been a work of prodigious Labour and Charges to have cut through such vast Mountains: And if any one was so hardy as to attempt it, he certainly grew weary of his Undertaking; for the Ground is levelled but a very little way, and almost as soon as we were well got within the open space, we were obliged to ascend another Hill, and so our Road continued over Hills and Valleys interchangeably all the way. On the left Hand, some distance from the Road, we saw a _Sheck_'s House on the top of a high Hill, which made a better show than usually those Buildings do, but being assured by our Guide it was a modern Structure, and eager too to come to the principal Place we aimed at, we would not prolong our Stage so much as to turn out of the Road, to see more of it: So pressing still forwards, we had hardly proceeded four Hours, when we came to the brow of a Rocky Mountain, separated from that whereon stands the Castle of _Tadmor_, but by a narrow Valley: In which Hill, by the Way, appeared some Quarries of fine Stone, which probably might afford Materials to the curious Buildings in the City. Our Guide here (according to his accustomed Diligence) advanced some few Paces before us, and having espied three or four Country-Fellows driving Asses towards us, he caused us to make halt, to give them an opportunity to come nearer to us, resolving to speak with them, to know whether the Coast was clear, or if any of the Mountain _Arabs_ were then at _Tadmor_, or not. After a little space, with our Arms in our Hands, we marched in as good order as the Way would permit, down a rocky and steep Precipice, into the Valley; and our Guide making greater speed than we could, gallop'd after the poor affrighted Country Fellows; who seeing such a Company unexpectedly descend the Hill, left their Asses, and fled towards the City with all possible speed: But they were soon overtaken, and brought back again to us; to whom they related the good News, that there was no Force at all in _Tadmor_, and that we might proceed with Courage, and see what we would there with all safety: Which News obtained them their Liberty to go again to their Asses, and we continued in our Way.

Having tired our selves with roving from Ruin to Ruin, and rummaging among old Stones, from which little Knowledge could be obtained; and more especially not thinking it safe to linger too long in a Place, where should the Mountain _Arabs_ (who were Enemies to _Assyne Abasse_, our Friend) have Intelligence of us, they might either fall upon or endeavour to intercept us in our return; (for which reason also we had all along concealed our intended Course, under a pretence of proceeding forward to _Damascus_.) On _Thursday_, _October 8._ about half an Hour after four in the Morning, we departed from _Tadmor_, being very well satisfied with what we had seen, and glad to have escaped so dreaded a Place, without any Trouble or Pretences upon us; but else with some Regret, for having left a great many things behind, which deserved a more particular and curious Inspection. Our Road lay almost due East, or a little inclining to the North; and on the left Hand, a ridge of Hills stretched along for a great space, sometimes about half an Hour distant from the Road, and sometimes opening wider: These Hills, we were told, were stored with rich Veins of divers Minerals, and afforded all that vast quantity of Marble, the Remains whereof we had seen at _Tadmor_; and it was from a Fountain call'd _Abulfarras_, at the foot of one of them, they fetch out Water, which we drank there; the Inhabitants contenting themselves with that which runs from the Hot Springs. To the right Hand lay a vast barren Plain, perfectly bare, and hardly any thing green to be seen therein, except it were a few Gourds which our Servants found on the side of a little rising-Ground, where there was no shew of any thing moist to feed them. Our Way being plain, we had the sight of _Tadmor_, especially the Castle, for above half our Stage, till we came to an old _Caphar_ House. We made indeed a very short Days Journey, in the whole, finding a Fountain of excellent Water in about five Hours and a half's Riding; which, as it was a most welcome Refreshment to us in such a thirsty Desart, so it was the only good Water we met with till we came to _Euphrates_, which was not till the third Day from this Place. At this Fountain we pitch'd, near to which is a Village, but almost wholly ruined and deserted. 'Twas some time before any Body would be seen, for they were afraid of us; at length, three Men came out to our Tents, Spectacles of a miserable Poverty, occasion'd by their being frequently pillaged by the Mountain _Arabs_, and a great Duty they pay to _Assyne Abasse_ their King, for his Protection: Three hundred Dollars they pay him Annually, when one would think the whole Village was not able to make up the Sum of one Hundred; yet being the remotest Place that was under his Jurisdiction, they often suffer by the Inroads of the other. The Name of the Place is _Yarecca_, a Name it received (as we were inform'd) from a Victory obtained there by the _Turks_ over the _Mamalukes_.

_October_ the 9th. From _Yarecca_ we mounted early, and Travelling N. E. or near that Point, in seven Hours time arrived at _Soukney_. The Road we found much like what we had the Day before, lying over a barren Plain; only we had Hills on both sides, and sometimes closing within half an Hours riding one of the other. The Village has its Name from the Hot Waters, (for so the Word imports,) which are of the same Nature with those of _Tadmor_; herein they Bath frequently, the same little dirty Hole serving both for Men and Women; only they have so much Modesty remaining, that they have different Hours for one and the other. To say the Truth, 'twas the only mark of Modesty I could observe among them; in other respects they seemed a Confident, or rather Impudent Generation of People. Before we could pitch our Tents, they flock'd about us in multitudes, Men, Women, and Children; and of the last, many of them as naked as ever they came into the World, not so much as a Rag about them to cover them; and so numerous they appeared, that if we had reason to think _Yarecca_ wanted Inhabitants, we had no less, to conclude _Soukney_ over-stock'd. At this Place usually resides an Officer of _Assyne_'s, who is their Sub-Basha, or Governor: He whom we found there, was call'd _Dor_, of a good Family among the _Arabs_, to whom we made a Present; and he civilly return'd it in Barley for our Horses. Afterwards he came under our Tents, and invited us to an Entertainment; which, considering the Circumstances of the Place, was very Splendid, though it was nothing but _Pilaw_ at last, a little diversify'd by the dressing; and, to speak truly, I judge we could not have less than a Bushel of Rice set before us. His Palace, indeed was not very stately, there being few Cottages in _England_ but might vie with it. To the Room wherein we were entertain'd, which, doubtless, was the best, if not the only one he had, we were forced to clamber, rather than ascend, by broken Steps made of Stone and Dirt. When we were got in, and commodiously seated after the _Turkish_ Mode, it seemed large enough for about a dozen or fourteen People: At the upper end was a little space separated from the rest by a ridge made up of Earth, within which, I suppose, he slept. The Walls were mean; but the Roof much worse, having no other Covering but Faggots; so that certainly it could not be Proof against a Shower of Rain which fell that Night, and forced us out of our Tents, into in old ruinous _Cane_, for shelter: However, it served well enough for our Afternoons Collation; and we had come away with a good Opinion of the Gentleman's Civility, had he not afterwards endeavoured to make a Pretence upon us, and so would have forced us to pay dear for our Rice: He pretended to a Customary Duty of a Chequeen a Head of all _Franks_ that past that Road; though probably neither he, nor his Grand-father before him, had ever seen a _Frank_ there before. But when he understood by our Guide, that we were not so easily to be imposed upon; and withal, that we were _Assyne_'s Friends, and in our Way to his Tents; and especially our Treasurer a Person he very much esteemed, who therefore would be sure to acquaint him with any Exaction or Injury offer'd us, his Mouth was quickly stop'd, and he grew so sensible of his Error, that he sent to excuse it, and presented our Treasurer with a Fan of Black Ostrich Feathers; and not only so, but in the Morning came himself, and begging Pardon, desired nothing might be said of what had past, and so conducted us about an Hour on our way. This Village pays to _Assyne_ fifteen hundred Dollars _per Annum_.

_October_ the 10th. Continuing our Voyage still to the N. E. or something more Easterly, we found it another pleasant and easie Stage to another Village call'd _Tiebe_, so called (as they say) from the goodness of the Water, the Word signifying _good_: But we found them not so over excellent; they had the Tast, and were doubtless tinctured with the same Mineral, with those of _Soukney_ and _Tadmor_, though not so strong. But the Village it self made a better Shew than usual; and the People appear'd of something better Fashion, and more civiliz'd, than those we had left. It's pleasantly situated, and makes a good appearance as one comes up to it; the Prospect being helped by a well built Steeple, to which is now adjoyned their Mosch: But I am apt to believe it the remains of a Christian Church, being built with more Art and Beauty than you shall easily find in Turkish Fabricks: And there are also several Ruins about it, which speak it to have been a more famous Place than now it is. Into the Mosch we were permitted to enter, without any Disturbance. This Village lies in one of the Roads from _Aleppo_ to _Bagdatt_, and pays to _Assyne_ an Annual Tribute of one thousand Dollars. From hence we mounted again in the Afternoon, and proceeded about two Hours and a half farther, to shorten our next Days Stage. Having travelled this Day, in all, about seven or eight Hours, the Place we pitch'd at was a Fountain, and known by the Name of _Alcome_; but neither Town nor House by it: neither was the Water fit to be Drank, being of the same nature with that of _Soukney_, and almost as warm.

_October_ the 11th. From _Alcome_ we rose about an Hour and an half after Midnight, our Guide groping out the way, by the help of the Stars, which now bended more to the North than formerly. As soon as it was light enough to look about us, we found our selves in a wild open Desart, the Ground, in some Places covered with a sort of Heath, and in others quite bare. Nor had we travelled long after the Sun was up, before, by the help of a rising Ground, we discovered _Arsoffa_, the Place whither we were tending, which gave us hopes we should quickly be there: But having a dry tiresome Plain to traverse, and the hot Sun causing our Mules a little to slacken their Pace, 'twas after ten a Clock before we reach'd it: And which was more vexatious still, finding no Water any where near, we were necessitated to proceed forward for the River _Euphrates_, which we found four Hours distant from hence. _Arsoffa_, or (as the _Arabs_ call it) _Arsoffa Emir_, seems to be the remains of a Monastery, having no Town nor Village near it, and being one continued Pile of Building of an oblong Figure, stretching long ways East and West, and enclosing a very capacious Area: At a distance it makes a glittering shew, being built of _Gypsine Stone_, or Rock-Ising-glass, resembling Alabaster, but not so hard; several Quarries of which we past by in our way to it. When the Sun shines upon it, it reflects the Beams so strong, that they dazzle the Eyes of the Spectators. Art or Accuracy in the Workmanship we found none; and but very little Carved Work, and that mean enough; nay, the very Cement they made use of, is but little better than Dirt; so that it's no great Wonder to see it in Ruins, though it has not the appearance of any great Antiquity. Round about were the little Apartments or Chambers for the Monks, built Arch-wise, only one Story above Ground; but underneath are several Cells or Vaults, larger than the Chambers, which perhaps might serve for their Schools, or Working-houses. In the midst of the Area stand the Ruins of several Buildings, some of which seem to have been Cisterns for Water, and it may be the Bathing-Places: But the most remarkable was one, which probably was the Abbot's or Bishop's House, there having been something more Pains bestow'd upon it, than the rest: And another, which was the Relicks of their Church. This was formerly no unhandsom Structure, being built in the form of our Churches, and distinguish'd into three Isles, of which the middle one is supported by eighteen turned Marble Pillars, with Capitals upon them, not of Marble, but of a sort of Clay, and Cast into the shape they are in, but of a Colour exactly resembling the Pillar it self. That which perswades to believe them Cast, is a Greek Inscription to be seen on all of them; the Letters whereof are not made by Incision in the Stone, but seem to be stamped, standing out higher than the distance between them; and on one of them, by mistake, they are so placed, as to be read after the Oriental manner, from the right Hand to the left. The Words are these, with the Crucifix before, as follows:

✠ ΕΠΙ ΣΕΡΓΙΟΥ ΕΠΙΣΚΟ. ΤΟΥ ΣΥΝΓΕΝ ΜΑΡΩΝΙΟΥ ΤΟΥ ΧΩΡΕΠΙΣΚΟ.

From hence our Guide led us to the River, by the assistance of two little Hills, which are known by the Name of _Aff Dieu_, our way lying North, and a little bending to the East. The sight of the River was a very pleasing Prospect; and to our great comfort, we found the Water very clear, happening to be there before the Rains, and after the Snow-Waters (which swell and disturb it in the Summer-time) were all past: And our Happiness seemed the greater, having had so tedious and thirsty a Journey of at least fourteen Hours, and neither our Selves nor our Horses touch'd a drop of Water all Day. We pitch'd upon a Reach of the River, where it was not very broad, not being above half a Musket-shot over.

_October_ the 12th. This Morning, about Sun-rise, we proceeded on our Voyage, keeping along the Banks of the River, which, for the most part, led us West and North-West: And here we had pleasant Travelling, having the River on the right Hand, and Hills of Marble or other fine Stone, on the left; and delightful Groves of Tamarisk, Mulberry, and other Trees to pass through. Here every thing about us lookt fresh and verdant, and we met frequently Men and Women passing on their Occasions, a thing to which (in our former Stages) we had not been accustomed. We had also a pleasing Prospect of the opposite Shore, and could see a great way into _Mesopotamia_, but could meet with no Convenience to cross the River, which we were very desirous to have done. There are no Places of Note remaining upon the River either on one side or the other, only on the farther side we saw an old Castle call'd _Giabar_, which made a good Shew, being situated on the top of a Hill, and both for that and the way of Building, very much resembling that of _Aleppo_, only that is the larger, and in the midst of a City; this less, and has neither Town nor Houses about it. On our side we past by a _Sheck_'s House call'd _Abul-Rarra_, and the Ruins of a Town a little farther, where there was a square Tower built of a very ordinary Brick, but pretty entire. After we had left these Ruins, we rested to bait, under the Shadow of a Rock, wherein were many Apartments and Conveniences cut to lodge in, which I suppose are made use of in the Winter by the People, who, during the Summer, pitch among the Trees by the River-side. In the Afternoon we continued our Journey as before, keeping always at a little distance from the River, till a little before Sun-set; when we came to a very convenient Place upon the Banks, where we took up our lodging for that Night, having travell'd between seven or eight Hours the whole Day.

_October_ the 13th. This Day we had the same Satisfaction as the Day before, proceeding as near the River as the Road would permit; and having made a Stage of about six Hours, we rested under the shade of the Tamarisk Trees by the River side, hoping to have found conveniency to have crossed it, but we could not. In our Way we saw nothing observable but the Ruins of a City call'd _Baulas_, where the _Turks_ had formerly a _Sangiack_; but now there is never an Inhabitant in the Place, nor House standing, but the Ruins of Houses, and an Octagonal Tower of a considerable height, _viz._ One hundred and seven Steps, and beautified on the outside with Flourishes and an Arabick Inscription round about: It's a handsome Structure, and probably the Work of the _Mamalukes_, since whose time little has been done to adorn, but abundance to destroy and wast this Country. After Dinner, we mounted sooner than ordinary; because hoping to reach the Tents of _Assyne_, we were unwilling it should be late when we arrived: yet we made it near Sun-set before we got to _Fay_, a Fountain by which he lay. We had travell'd still on the same Point N. W. with the Prospect of the River the greater part of the Way; the nearest Reach thereof not being above an Hours Riding from the Fountain. On the Road we met with several _Bandera_'s of the _Emir_'s Soldiers, who knowing our Guide, and understanding we were going to him, gave us a very courteous _Salam_, who else, perhaps, might have treated us with another sort of Civility. The King's Tents spread over a large Plain, and took up so vast a Space, that though we had the advantage of a rising Ground, we could not see the uttermost extent of them. His own particular Tent was pretty near the middle of the rest, which were pitch'd about it, not in a circular manner, but stretching out in length as the Plain open'd, or for the better conveniency of a Current of Water, which from the Fountain ran through the midst of them. 'Twas not at all distinguishable from the rest, but by its bigness, and a little more Company about it, being all made of a sort of Hair-Cloth, which seemed hardly a defence against Rain or Sun: But certainly they must find otherwise, else their Necessity (they spending their Lives in such moveable Habitations) would have taught them to have contrived something better. It cannot well be doubted but they are descended from the old _Arabs Scenitæ_, they living just after the same manner, having no settled Abode, but remove from Fountain to Fountain, as they find Grass for their Sheep and Camels, and Water for them and themselves. They love to derive themselves from _Ismael_ the Son of _Abraham_; and it may be they are descended from him, but I believe they would be hard put to't to prove their Pedigree.

As soon as we alighted, we were attended by the Officers of the _Emir_, and conducted to a very noble Tent built after the _Turkish_ Mode, and pitch'd next to his own. Hither he sent to bid us welcome, and to enquire how we had past in our Voyage; and presently after we had a Repast of several Dishes of Meat set before us, to stay our Appetites till a more plentiful Supper could be got ready. But before Supper the King himself made us a Visit in Person, bidding us Welcome to _Fay_, and asking what we had seen in our Travels that pleas'd us? how we liked _Tadmor_? and whether we had found a Treasure there? For this Notion sticks in the Heads of these People, That the _Franks_ go to see old Ruins, only because they there meet with Inscriptions which direct them to some hid Treasures. And therefore it's no unusual thing with them, when they find a Stone with an Inscription on one side, to turn that down to the Ground, that it might not be seen or read of any. But we assur'd him we went with no such Expectations, but only out of a desire to see the Place: Neither had we brought any thing away with us; but a piece of Porphyry Stone, which, upon his Request, we shew'd him. We let him see too, a kind of rude Draught which we had taken of the Place; which he seemed to like. He made his Visit the shorter, that he might not incommode us after our Journey; but desir'd us we would live after our own Pleasure and to our Satisfaction, and command freely whatever the Camp would afford; ordering some of his People constantly to attend upon us. When there was mention made of our Design to be gone the next Morning, he answer'd, It must not be; himself was invited the next Day, to a great Entertainment, by one of his _Grandees_, and we should accompany him: But the Day following, he would go out with us, and Hunt part of our Way towards _Aleppo_. When Supper was brought in, there was Victuals enough for three times our Number: A large Dish of _Pilaw_ in the middle, and twelve or fifteen Dishes of several sorts of Meat about it, all dress'd after their manner, but exceeding good, and such as one might have fed heartily upon, had he not spoil'd his Appetite before. After we had Eat and Drank what we pleas'd, we rose up, and our Servants sat down in our Places; it being the Custom of the _Arabs_, and _Turks_ too, from the Highest to the Meanest, all to eat at the same Table: The best sort sit down first, and so in order till all are satisfy'd, and then what remains is carry'd away. We might, if we had pleas'd, have lodg'd under the same Tent where we eat; but having Tents of our own pitch'd, some of our Company chose rather to retire thither, to avoid being disturbed by too many Visitants.

_October_ the 14th. The next Morning, about ten a Clock, we were told that the King was gone to the Entertainment, and expected we should follow him; and that two young Camels were kill'd, to furnish this sumptuous Feast; which is the highest piece of Magnificence and Greatness to which these People, whose greatest Riches consist in Camels, can arrive. The Tent was about a Furlong from ours; so mounting our Horses, we rode to it, and found it surrounded with a numerous train of Guests, three hundred at least, of different Sort and Quality: It was very large of it self, and to be still more capacious, 'twas left open toward the West. The King was seated at the North-end, about the midst of the Tent, upon a Place raised with Cushions and Quilts, and Carpets before him: Neither did he sit cross-Legg'd, as all the rest of the Company were obliged to do, but in a leaning Posture. They seemed to observe an exact Order in their Places; and when any Person of Note enter'd, those that were near his Place, rose up and stood till he had seated himself. But the far greatest part could not come within the compass of the Ring, but stood behind the Backs of the rest, leaving a spacious _Area_ vacant in the middle. When we entred, they made room for us on the King's left Hand, which here is esteem'd the more Honourable; where we sat down in the same Posture with those about us, cross-Legg'd upon a thin Carpet. Before mid-day, a Carpet being spread in the middle of the Tent, our Dinner was brought in, being served up in large Wooden Bowls between two Men; and truly to my apprehension, Load enough for them. Of these great Platters there were about fifty or sixty in number, perhaps more, with a great many little ones, I mean, such as one Man was able to bring in, strewed here and there among them, and placed for a Border or Garnish round about the Table. In the middle of all was one of a larger size than all the rest, in which was the Camel's Bones, and a thin Broth in which they were boiled: The other greater ones seemed all filled with one and the same sort of Provision, a kind of Plumb-Broth, made of Rice, and the fleshy part of the Camel, with Currants and Spices, being of something a darker Colour than what is made in our Country. The lesser were, for the the most part, charged with Rice dress'd after several Modes, some of them having _Leben_, (a thick sour Milk) poured upon them. _Leben_ is a thing in mighty Esteem in these Hot Countries, being very useful to quench Thirst: And truly we had need of it here; for I did not see a drop of any sort of Liquor, excepting a Dish of Coffee before Dinner, drank at this splendid Feast. Knives, Forks, Spoons, Trenchers, _&c._ are silly Impertinent Things in the Esteem of the _Arabs_: However, we being known to make use of such things, had large Wooden Spoons laid before us. When the Table was thus plentifully furnish'd, the King arising from his Seat, went and sat down to that Dish that was directly before him; and so did the rest, as many as it would contain, which could not be much short of a hundred; and so without further Ceremony, they fell to thrusting their Hands into the Dishes, and Eating by Handfuls: Neither was there any occasion of Carving; only because those Dishes in the middle were too remote to be reach'd, there was an Officer on purpose, who stepping in among them, and standing in the Spaces designedly left for that end, with a long Ladle in both his Hands, helpt any one according to their Desire. When the King had eaten what he thought fit, he rose up and wash'd, and retir'd back to his former Seat; and we also did the like; others being ready to fill our Places. Nor did we continue much longer under the Tent in that numerous Crowd; for _Assyne_ perceiving us a little uneasie, and supposing we had now sufficiently satisfy'd our Curiosity, though perhaps not our Appetites, told us we might take our Liberty, and if we thought fit retire to our Tents. This Favour we gladly accepted, and without Ceremony returned, several of his Attendants waiting upon us back. Here we had another Dinner set before us; and having some of our own Wine and Water to Drink with it, it went down better with us than the famous Camel-Feast. In the Evening, the King mounted to see the flight of a new Hawk, and stay'd Abroad very late, his Hawk flying away: But she was afterwards taken up by his Falconer; otherwise he had not been in a good Humour all that Night, being a Man that delights very much in Sport. After his return from Hawking, we went to Wait upon him at his own Tent, to return him Thanks for his most courteous and royal Reception of us, and to desire leave to depart the next Morning. Here we found him surrounded with the chiefest of his People; and being placed again on his left Hand, he entertain'd us with a great deal of pleasant Discourse; and ask'd such Questions, as shew'd him to be a Man of extraordinary Capacity and Judgment. As for Learning, they have no such thing among them, and therefore it's not to be expected that he should be a Scholar: But were he not a Person of more than common Prudence and Understanding, he could never have managed that Wild and Unruly People as he has done, ever since his Advancement to the Throne; which must therefore have been the more difficult, because as he came to it by the Deposition of his Father (though not immediately) who now lives with him as a private Man, so has he never wanted Competitors. To his Father he pays a great deal of outward Respect, but is forced to keep a very watchful Eye over him. After about an Hours Discourse, we were dismiss'd.

_October_ the 15th. In the Morning, _Assyne_ not being at leisure to go a Hunting, we proceeded on our Voyage Homewards, with a great deal of Alacrity; and finding nothing remarkable in our Road, in about 3 Hours and an half arrived at _Seray_. And hence, after a short Repast, we continued our Journey to _Sherby_ Fountain, which took us up about the like space of Time. Here we accounted our selves as good as at Home, being at a Place with which we were well acquainted, and to which several times in the Year some or other of our Nation usually resort, either for Antelope or Hog-hunting, according to their Season; nor had we hence above seven or eight Hours to _Aleppo_.

_October_ the 16th. Getting up pretty early in the Morning, we resolved to Hunt the greatest part of our Way Home, as we did; and Dining at the famous _Round-Hill_, whereon has been spent by the _English_ more Money than would purchase a noble Estate round about it, in the Afternoon we arrived safe at _Aleppo_.

_Some Account of the Ancient State of the City of _Palmyra_, with
short Remarks upon the Inscriptions found there. By _E. Halley_._

The City of _Tadmor_, whose Remains in Ruins do with so much evidence demonstrate the once happy Condition thereof, seems very well to be proved to be the same City which _Solomon_ the great King of _Israel_ is said to have founded under that Name in the _Desart_, both in 1 _Kings_ 9. 18. and 2 _Chron._ 8. 16. in the Translation of which, the _Vulgar Latin Version_, said to be that of St. _Jerom_, has it, _Condidit Palmyram in Deserto_. And _Josephus_ (in _lib._ 8. _Antiq. Jud._ wherein he treats of _Solomon_ and his Acts) tell us, that he Built a City in the Desart, and called it _Thadamora_; and the _Syrians_ at this Day (says he) call it by the same Name; but the _Greeks_ name it _Palmyra_. The Name is therefore Greek, and consequently has no relation to the Latin _Palma_, and seems rather derived from Παλμυός or Πάλμυς, which _Hesychius_ Interprets βασιλεὺς πατὴρ: or perhaps from Παλμύτης, which (according to the same Author) was an _Egyptian_ God. Neither is the Word תרמר but תמר that in Hebrew signifies a _Palm-Tree_.

History is silent as to the Fate and Circumstances of this City, during the great Revolutions in the several Empires of the East; but it may well be supposed, that so advanced a Garrison as this was, being above three hundred Miles from _Jerusalem_, continued not long in the Possession of the _Jews_, who immediately after _Solomon_, fell into Civil Dissention, and divided their Force: so that it is not to be doubted, but that it submitted to the _Babylonian_ and _Persian_ Monarchies, and afterwards to the _Macedonians_ under _Alexander_ and the _Seleucidæ_. But when the _Romans_ got footing into these Parts, and the _Parthians_ seemed to put a stop to their farther Conquests in the _East_, then was this City of _Palmyra_, by reason of its Situation, being a Frontier, and in the midst of a vast Sandy _Desart_, where Armies could not well subsist to reduce it by Force, courted and caressed by the contending Princes, and permitted to continue a Free State, a Mart or Staple for Trade, for the Convenience of both Empires, as is abundantly made out from the Words of _Appian_ and _Pliny_.

_Appian_ (_lib._ 5. _de Bellis Civil._) tells us, that _M. Antonius_, after his Victory at _Philippi_, about forty Years before _Christ_, sent his Horse to Plunder the City of _Palmyra_, pretending only that they were not sufficiently in the _Roman_ Interest. ὅτι Ρωμαίων καὶ Παρθυαίων ὄντες ἔφοροι ἐς ἑκατέρας ἐπιδεξίως εἶχον, and that being Merchants, they conveyed the _Indian_ and _Arabian_ Commodities by the way of _Persia_ into the _Roman_ Territories; though the true reason were their Riches: But the _Palmyrenes_ being informed of the Design, took care to prevent them, and so escaped Plunder: And this Attempt of _Antony_'s occasioned a Rupture between the two Empires. The Words of _Pliny_ (_lib._ 5. _Nat. Hist._) above an hundred Years after, do likewise testifie that this City then continued in the same Enjoyment of their Liberties. They being very much to the purpose, I thought fit to Copy them: _Palmyra Urbs nobilis situ, divitiis soli atque aquis amœnis, vasto undique ambitu arinis includit agros, ac velut terris exempta à rerum Natura; privata sorte inter duo imperia summa Romanorum Parthorumque, & prima in discordia semper utrinque cura_. Whereby it appears not only that it was a Common-wealth in the time of _Vespasian_; but the situation thereof is truly described, as it were an Island of fertile Land, surrounded with a Sea of barren Sands. Such Spots _Strabo_ tells us were frequent in _Lybia_, and by the _Egyptians_ were called _Abases_; whence possibly the Name of the _Abassyne_ Nation is derived.

With these Advantages of Freedom, Neutrality and Trade, for near two Centuries, 'tis not strange that it acquired the State and Wealth answerable to the Magnificence of these noble Structures. But when the _Romans_ under _Trajan_ had made it appear, that there was no comparison between the Puissance of the _Parthians_ and them, (_Trajan_ having taken _Babylon_ and _Ctesiphon_ the then Seat of the _Parthian_ Empire,) the _Palmyreni_ were at length determined to Declare for the _Romans_; which they did, by submitting themselves to the Emperor _Adrian_, about the Year of Christ 130, when _Adrian_ made his Progress through _Syria_ into _Egypt_. And that Magnificent Emperor being highly delighted with the native Strength and Situation of the Place, was pleased to adorn and rebuild it: When, as 'tis likely, he bestowed on it the Privileges of a Colony _Juris Italici_, which it enjoyed (as _Ulpian_ assures us.) And the Inhabitants of the City, in Gratitude, were willing to call themselves _Hadrianopolitæ_, ἐπικτισθείσης τῆς πόλεως ὑπὸ τοῦ Αὐτοκράτορος (says _Stephanus_.) Nor is it unlikely that many of those Marble Pillars were the Gift of that Emperor, and particularly those of the Long _Porticus_; for that none of the Inscriptions are before that Date. And it was usual for the _Cæsars_ to present Cities that had obliged them, with Marble Pillars to adorn their Publick Buildings. These here were not far to fetch, the Neighbouring Mountains affording _Marble-Quarries_: But the Magnitude of the _Porphyry_ Columns is indeed very remarkable, considering how far those vast Stones must have been brought by Land-carriage to this Place; it being not known that any other Quarries yield it, except those of _Egypt_, which lie about mid-way between _Cairo_ and _Siena_, between the _Nile_ and the _Red-Sea_: The Stone being very valuable for its Colour and Hardness, and so that it rises in Blocks of any magnitude required; _Quantislibet molibus cædendis sufficiunt Lapidicinæ_, (_Plin._ _lib._ 36.) And it is a great mistake of those who suppose it fictitious.

From the time of _Adrian_ to that of _Aurelian_, for about an hundred and forty Years, this City continued to flourish and encrease in Wealth and Power, to that degree, that when the Emperor _Valerian_ was taken Prisoner by _Sapores_ King of _Persia_, _Odænathus_ one of the Lords of this Town (which Name occurs in several of these Inscriptions) was able (whilst _Gallienus_ neglected his Duty both to his Father and Country) to bring a powerful Army into the Field, and to recover _Mesopotamia_ from the _Persians_, and to penetrate as far as their Capital City _Ctesiphon_. Thereby rendring so considerable Service to the _Roman_ State, that _Gallienus_ thought himself obliged to give him a share in the Empire: Of which Action, _Trebellius Pollio_ (in the Life of _Gallienus_) has these Words, _Laudatur ejus (Gallieni) optimum factum, qui, Odenatum participato Imperio Augustum vocavit, ejusque monetam, qua Persas captos traheret, cudi jussit: quod & Senatus & Urbs & omnis ætas gratanter accepit_. The same in many Places speaks of this _Odænathus_ with great Respect; and mentioning his Death, he says, _Iratum fuisse Deum Reip. credo, qui interfecto Valeriano noluit Odenatum reservare_. But by a strange reverse of Fortune, this Honour and Respect to _Odænathus_ occasioned the sudden Ruin and Subversion of the City. For he and his Son _Herodes_ being murder'd by _Mæonius_ their Kinsman, and dying with the Title of _Augustus_, his Wife _Zenobia_, in Right of her Son _Waballathus_ then a Minor, pretended to take upon her the Government of the East, and did administer it to admiration: And when soon after _Gallienus_ was murder'd by his Soldiers, she grasped the Government of _Egypt_, and held it during the short Reign of the Emperor _Claudius Gothicus_. But _Aurelian_ coming to the Imperial Dignity, would not suffer the Title of _Augustus_ in this Family, tho' he was contented that they should hold under him as _Vice Cæsaris_; as plainly appears by the Latin Coins of _Aurelian_ on the one side, and _Waballathus_ (which Name is often found in these Inscriptions) on the other, with these Letters V. C. R. IM. OR., which _P. Harduin_ has most judiciously interpreted _Vice Cæsaris Rector Imperii Orientis_, but without the Title of _Cæsar_ or _Augustus_, and with a Laurel instead of a Diadem. But both _Waballathus_ and _Zenobia_ are stiled ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΙ in the _Greek_ Coins, made, 'tis probable, within their own Jurisdiction. Two of the _Latin_ I have seen, and they are as described, excepting the Points.

But nothing less than a Participation of the Empire contenting _Zenobia_, and _Aurelian_ persisting not to have it dismembered: He marched against her, and having in two Battles routed her Forces, he shut her up and Besieged her in _Palmyra_: And the Besieged finding that the great resistance they made, availed not against that resolute Emperor, they yielded the Town; and _Zenobia_ flying with her Son, was pursued and taken: With which _Aurelian_ being contented, spared the City, and leaving a small Garrison, march'd for _Rome_ with this Captive Lady: But the Inhabitants believing he would not return, set up again for themselves, and (as _Vopiscus_ has it) slew the Garrison he had left in the Place. Which _Aurelian_ understanding, tho' by this time he was gotten into _Europe_, with his usual fierceness, speedily returned; and collecting a sufficient Army by the way, he again took the City without any great Opposition, and put it to the Sword, with an uncommon Cruelty, as he himself confesses in a Letter (extant in _Vopiscus_), and delivered them to the Pillage of his Soldiers. And it is observable, that none of the Greek Inscriptions are after the date of this Calamity, which befell the City in or about the Year of _Christ_ 272, as far as may be collected, after it had been nine or ten Years the Seat of the Empire of the East, not without Glory.

In this appears also the great utility of Coins to illustrate Matters of History; for by them alone 'tis made out, that there was such a Prince as _Waballathus_, _Vopiscus_ singly mentioning him by the Name of _Balbatus_. And from the same Coins it appears, that _Odænathus_ had the Title of _Augustus_ four Years, and _Waballathus_ six at least; and that the first Year of _Aurelian_ was the fourth of _Waballathus_. And by the Testimony of _Pollio_, _Odænathus_ was declared Emperor of the East, _Gallieno_ & _Saturnino Coss._ which was _Anno Christi_ 263, and died before _Gallienus_, but in the same Year, _viz._ _Anno_ 267, which, by the Coins, was the first of _Waballathus_. He therefore immediately succeeded _Odænathus_, and was without doubt his Eldest Son by _Zenobia_, and not his Grandson the Son of _Herodes_, as some learned Men have supposed: For if _Zenobia_ could not endure that _Herodes_ Son of _Odænathus_ by a former Wife, should succeed his Father in prejudice to her Children, and for that reason was consenting to his Murther (as _Pollio_ intimates in _Herodes_ and _Mæonius_,) much less would she endure the Title of _Augustus_ in the Son of _Herodes_, especially when her own Sons were, as 'tis probable, elder than such Grandson. So that 'tis most likely that _Herennianus_ and _Timolaus_, whom _Pollio_ reckons among his XXX Tyrants, might be the Younger Sons of _Zenobia_, on whom also, out of Motherly Affection, she might bestow the same Titles of Honour.

But it must be observed, that in the Greek Coins, this Prince's Name is usually written ΑΥΤ. ΕΡΜΙΑΣ ΟΥΑΒΑΛΛΑΘΟΣ ΑΘΗΝΟΥ (as _Tristan_ says he found it upon several Medals,) but _Patin_ has the last Word only ΑΘΗ. I should be glad to peruse some of these curious Coins, especially if found in or near _Palmyra_: but I am inclinable to believe that his true Name was _Æranes Waballathus_ (as was one of his Progenitors, in Inscription _Pag._ 91.) though perhaps the remoter Cities of _Asia_ and _Ionia_ might by mistake write it _Hermias_. And 'tis probable that ΑΘΗΝ might be for the first Letters of the Name of ΟΔΗΝΑΘΟΣ, which in Syriack begun with an _Aleph_; and the Δ was with those People used instead of Θ, as we see the Month _Xanthicus_, written Ξανδικὸς in many of these Inscriptions, which doubtless was pronounced like D _blæsum_ or the Saxon D.

Though this City were at that time so roughly treated by _Aurelian_, yet it is certain that he did not burn it, or destroy the Buildings thereof: And though _Zosimus_, on this occasion, uses the Words τὴν πόλιν κατασκάψας, yet that seems only to relate to his demolishing the Walls and Defences of the Place; and that Emperors own Letter extant in _Vopiscus_, doth sufficiently shew that he spared the City it self, and that he took care to re-instate the beautiful Temple of the _Sun_ that was there, which had been Plundered by his Soldiers. However, the Damage then sustained was never retrieved by the Inhabitants, and I do not find that ever this City made any figure in History after it: Yet the _Latin Inscription_, (Pag. 106.) seems to intimate, as if _Dioclesian_ had restored their Walls within thirty Years after. About the Year of Christ 400, it was the Head Quarters of the _Legio Prima Illyricorum_; and though _Stephanus_ gives it no better Title than φρούριον, yet it appears to have been an Archbishop's See, under the Metropolitan of _Damascus_. To say in what Age, or from what Hand it received its final Overthrow, which reduced it to the miserable Condition it now appears in, there is no light in any of our Historians; but it is probable it perish'd long since, in the obscure Ages of the World, during the Wars of the _Saracen_ Empire; and being burnt and desolated, it was never rebuilt; which occasions the Ruins to lie so entire, in a manner as they were left, neither being used to other Structures on the Place, nor worth carrying away, because of the great distance thereof from any other City.

As to the Geographical Site of _Palmyra_, _Ptolemy_ places it in the Latitude of _Tripoly_ on the Coast of _Syria_, and four Degrees more Easterly, _viz._

Παλμύρα. οα, ϛ′. λδ.

and he makes it the Capital of sixteen Cities in _Syria Palmyrena_, whereof _Alalis_, _Danaba_ and _Evaria_ were afterwards _Bishops Sees_. _Pliny_ places it CCIII Miles from the nearest Coast of _Syria_, and CCCXXXVII from _Seleucia ad Tygrim_ near _Bagdat_, (which Numbers are erroneously Printed 252 and 537 in most Editions, contrary to the Authority of the MSS.) _Josephus_ places it one Days Journey from _Euphrates_, and six from _Babylon_; which must be understood of Horse-man's Journeys of about sixty Miles _per diem_, it being more than so much from this City to _Euphrates_. _Ptolemy_ also mentions a River running by _Palmyra_, which did not appear to our Travellers, unless that Gut or Channel wherein they were overflowed by the Rain-Waters, were the Bed thereof; which may, possibly, run with a constant Stream in the Winter or times of much Rain: But this (as the Rivers of _Aleppo_ and _Damascus_ at this Day) is made by _Ptolomy_ to have no _exit_; but to go off in _Vapour_, and to be imbibed by the thirsty Earth of these Desarts.

The _Æra_ or Accompt of Years observed by the _Palmyreni_ in these Inscriptions, is evidently that of _Seleucus_, call'd afterwards _Dhilcarnian_ or _Bicornis_ by the _Arabians_, and by them kept in use till above 900 Years of Christ (as appears by the Observations of _Albatani_, published in _Numb._ 204 of the _Philosoph. Transact._) and not that of the Death of _Alexander_. This may be demonstrated from the Inscription (_Pag. 101._) wherein _Alexander Severus_ is stiled ΘΕΟΣ; that is, after the Death and Consecration of that Emperor, or after the Year of our Lord 234; and from the Name of _Julius_, who, when this Inscription was put up, was _Præfectus Prætorio_, (and could be no other than _Julius Philippus Arabs_ who might be esteemed by the _Palmyreni_ as their Country-man,) it follows, that it was in the last Year of _Gordian_ _Anno Christi_ 242 or 243: And that Emperor being soon after Murder'd by the Treachery of this _Philip_, who succeeded him: And his Treason coming afterwards to light, 'tis not strange that his Name was purposely effaced in this Inscription. The Date thereof, _Anno_ 554, shews the beginning of this Accompt 311 or 312 Years before Christ, co-incident with the _Æra_ of _Seleucus_, which was likewise observed by several other Cities in the East.

I shall not undertake the part of a Critick on these Inscriptions, but chuse rather to leave them to the more professedly skilful in that part of Learning, and shall only make some few Remarks on them, such as occurred whilst they pass'd through my Hands.

1. That the more ancient of these Inscriptions dated before the Year 500, do no where make use of _Roman Prænomina_, which yet are very frequent in them that follow; particularly _Julius_, _Aurelius_ and _Septimius_, taken up by these People out of Respect to the Emperors that bore those Names; and consequently that _Septimius Odænathus_ (the Inscription of whose Tomb we have, _pag. 91._) was most probably the same who was afterwards _Augustus_. That Name growing in use in the Reign of _Septimius Severus_, under whom or his Son _Caracalla_ this _Odænathus_ was certainly Born. And this Monument being erected by him whilst he was yet a private Man; and he afterwards attaining the Imperial Dignity, it was necessary the Inscription of his Tomb (which perhaps was that single one that was all of Marble) should be changed: Upon which occasion this Stone might be brought back into the Town, and after its Destruction, be clapt up casually over the little Gate-way where now it stands.