Chapter IX: Wayside Ministries and Work in Amritsar

In India Dr. Elmslie had two homes–if indeed he had a home at all, for he spoke of himself as being like Noah's dove, without a resting place for the sole of his foot–two homes and three spheres of labour. For six months in the year he lived and worked, as we have seen, in Kashmir. Then going each season to and from this, his main centre of action, he had no home whatever–sometimes like his Divine Master he had no place to lay his head–but he had a precious sphere of usefulness in wayside ministries amongst the sick and suffering, of which he gladly availed himself; and then for a few months in the year, in Amritsar, or some other city, he opened a dispensary and carried on his Medical Missionary operations. Leaving the beautiful valley we shall accompany him as he moves by the Pir Panjal towards Amritsar, exemplifying as he goes the _heaven-appointed_ plan of missions–HEAL AND PREACH.

"_Journal, October 20th, 1865._–Road to Haripur rough, but the scenery more and more beautiful, reminding me of the dear Scotch Highlands. No shelter at Haripur, so breakfasted on the path-side and set out for Aliabad Serai, which is near the very highest point to which we ascend the Himalayas. Road all precipitous and rough, a pony indispensable for comfort, but not quite free of danger, for as I was urging my tuttoo up one of the knotty points of the mountain he fell back. I threw myself to one side and escaped all injury, but the pony went rolling down the rocks for some distance. The scenery from Haripur to Aliabad is very grand; the towering mountains are covered with magnificent pines, and deep down in the ravine below, there dashes a wild river, its course fretted by many a boulder. About five P.M. I reached the Serai, tired and longing to rest, very hungry, but my servants had not arrived. The night was bitterly cold, and I had to spend it without even a blanket to cover me, for my servants had stayed at the foot of the last ascent and did not arrive till morning."

"A little beyond Aliabad Serai the traveller reaches the summit of the pass, about 12,000 feet above sea level. On it there stands a watch-tower, inhabited by the guardian of the pass. The view is inconceivably grand, it entrances one, making one forget all the fatigues of the journey and rejoice in the glories of God's creation. India's plains lie stretched before you, with an intervening foreground of marvellously verdant mountains, while towering above and around are the thousand snowy peaks of the Himalayas. The descent is not so easy as it seems at first. The paths are precipitous, and often dangerous, and always lonely. The marches from one Serai to another are sixteen miles." On arriving, tired and footsore, Dr. Elmslie often found that his servants were far behind him, and he was thankful to accept the hospitality of the natives, and to partake of milk and chipatties gladly supplied by them. At every resting place he called the sick, and did what he could to relieve their sufferings, while his catechist addressed them from the Word. He writes, "I am delighted to be able to follow Qadir Bakhsh in his addresses now: his similes are always apt; for instance, to-day when speaking of faith he said, 'Faith is like a seed which the Holy Spirit takes and sows in the heart; from the seed grows the Christian tree, and the fruit of the tree is good works.' Though tired, I felt impelled to say a word or two about God's unspeakable love. The people listened with marked attention." Again he writes:–"_October 25th._–Soon after leaving Rajaori we saluted a company of Chinese Mussulmans on their way to Mecca, and again we met in the Serai at Sialsui–a wretched mud building in which I took refuge from a thunderstorm. Qadir Bakhsh told me he had had a long conversation with one of them, and it had ended in his asking him for a Testament. He could read and speak Persian, he said, so I called him and had some conversation. I learned that he came from Foochow, one of four Mussulman cities in China, and, anxious to show his repentance for sin, he had set out on the pilgrimage to Mecca. I tried to show him the utter impossibility of any man obtaining eternal life through mere repentance without an atoning sacrifice, such a sacrifice as our blessed Saviour had offered up. He listened to Qadir Bakhsh and me silently, and again expressed his desire to possess a copy of the 'Injil.' Not having any with me in Persian, we gave him a copy of the Old Testament, and he was much pleased. He read the Decalogue with great interest. Poor fellow, he said he had been nine months on his pilgrimage already. What a lesson in earnestness! Lord, bless thine own word to this deluded follower of the false prophet.

"While conversing with him, the Kotwal of the village and his followers had come in. Afterwards we had a remarkably interesting conversation with a very intelligent Kashmiri, who had been listening attentively to all that was said to the Chinaman.

"_October 28th._–One of our Chinese friends who follow in our track, has an attack of tonsillitis, for which he applied for medicine, which he got, along with a few words intended to reach the seat of the spiritual disease. This is my Indian birthday. Help me, Lord, to do more in the coming year, towards spreading the news of Thy marvellous love to lost men!

"_31st October, near Thāh._–Crossed the Chenab by a rudely constructed ferryboat; the road to Thāh comparatively good, but long and broken by tributaries of the Chenab. There is a wonderful difference between the cultivation of the neighbouring country compared to that of the territory through which I have come. An extensive system of irrigation is carried on by the native farmers. About three o'clock I arrived alone at Thāh, where I was intending to pass the night, but found that the 'Sahib Log' went to a village at some distance. So at least the rogue of a bombardār informed me. After a ride of ten minutes, I reached the said village and dismounted under the shade of a clump of trees, requesting my conductor, the son of said bombardār, to go back to Thāh and send me some milk and fruit, also some grain for my horse, as I feared my servants would not arrive till late. His promises of a speedy return with all I wanted were not fulfilled, and I sat there alone, tired with my journey, from four till seven o'clock, when Qadir Bakhsh arrived, much to my joy. He at once set out to forage, but without success. Having tasted nothing since early morning, and seeing no prospect of dinner, I set out with Qadir Bakhsh to see what we could effect by our combined forces. I shall never forget the furious rage dear old Qadir Bakhsh acted, greatly to the terror of all who came near him. When no one was looking he turned round and laughed heartily to me. It was an amusing scene even to a hungry man as I was, and as the fruit of it, one woman brought us, partly from fear, partly from pity, some milk, a charpae and some straw, and with these we had to be content for the night. I drank my milk, thanking God for all His goodness during the day, and went to sleep under the shade of the trees. In the morning found my followers had arrived through the night. Walked most of the way to Sealkote with a mussulman, and told him about Jesus and His great salvation.

"_November 5th._–Early this morning arrived at Amritsar. Busy preparing house in city for dispensary, &c. Mean to live there in order to be near my patients.

"_Amritsar, 20th November, 1865._–MY EVER DEAREST MOTHER,–Since my return from Kashmir I have had a very sorrowful work to perform; one of the young missionaries connected with the work here, had had an attack of dysentery, and had been ordered off to Dalhousie in hope of benefiting from the mountain air. But he became worse and worse. I went up to this hill station in order to help his poor young wife in nursing him, and if possible, to bring him down to the plains again, but it was too late; he died three hours before I arrived. You can imagine the scene of sorrow. Mr. Watkin was a very promising young missionary, and we all feel deeply our loss in his death. After a few days my friend and his, Mr. R., came down, bringing Mrs. W. with us.

"_3d January, 1866._–God continues to give me in His great goodness an ordinary quantum of health and spirits. I know nothing so conducive to both, as the assurance that God is reconciled to you, and you to God, through the precious blood of Jesus. How is your soul prospering? Is Jesus becoming more and more precious, and is the world becoming more like a wilderness to you? We have been taught this lesson very solemnly of late. Another of our number has been summoned home. The Rev. W. Stevenson of Peshawur died some days ago of fever. Mr. Clark's fine little boy too has been taken away. These events solemnize us greatly, while they remind us also of God's great mercy in sparing us a little while longer. Yet St. Paul is right when he says that to depart and be with Christ is far better than to remain here in this sinful imperfect world. My work is slowly progressing in Amritsar. Yesterday I had twenty-nine patients, all of whom listened attentively to the word read and explained. You will be happy to hear that I am now able to read the native language, and to make short comments on the passages of Scripture, and also to close our meetings with extempore prayer. I have four assistants here besides the native doctor, and for these lads I have begun two classes,–one for the study of materia medica, and another for anatomy. I find the people here more bigoted than in Kashmir. They would much rather pay a small fee than listen to the address and prayer, although they love money ardently. Next week I hope to open a class for chemistry, in hope of gathering some of the lads in the city who speak English, and who intend taking a degree in the University. It is said I shall have a large class, and I think I may thus come into closer relationship with many young men.

"You express a hope that we may be found in Jesus. Why should we doubt it? Jesus is ready to receive us. We know He is more willing to bless than we are to receive the blessing. The Father has constructed a stupendous machinery for the express purpose of bringing us to Him; we _will_ go to Jesus and dwell where He dwells.

"_February 19th, 1866._–Did I tell you that I had commenced a course of lectures on chemistry? There are twenty-six names on the list, and I trust my object may be realized in counteracting some of the evil influences of much of our scientific literature.

"_July 19th, 1866._–As the Lieutenant Governor, with his court, is expected to be present at the Durbār, which will be held here next week, we purpose having a meeting of our Medical Mission Committee, when a new Secretary and Treasurer is to be appointed. I trust I shall not be called on to undertake this work, for I feel sure it would hinder me from doing so much direct mission work as I should be able to do if free of all money matters and correspondence. They say in Amritsar that I am to meet with much opposition from Government this season in Kashmir. If the work is the Lord's, then all things must ultimately work together for His glory. He can restrain the fury of men, saying to them, as He did to the great deep, 'Hitherto shalt thou come, and no further.' I am often with you in spirit, often with you, dearest mother, at the throne of grace, breathing out desires for a blessing on you. How very near we are in Christ.

"I had a visit from three priests of the golden temple to-day, who presented me with a quantity of sweetmeats and flowers, and after the usual civilities, we entered into conversation about 'Namak Sahib' and the Grunth; I trying to tell them something of the gospel. They were, however, bent on something else. After telling me of the liberal bakhshish so many great sahibs had given them, they at last, provoked at my not taking the hint, asked me point blank what I would give them. I replied in some such words as Peter, 'Silver and gold have I none, but such as I have give I thee,' and assured them of my willingness to give them medicine for body and for soul. They gathered up the sweetmeats and flowers, and stalked off, not a little disappointed.

"_January 23d, 1866._–TO DR. CLEGHORN.–It would have afforded me unbounded pleasure to have met you, and talked over with you the concerns and prospects of the mission, of which you have the honour of being the father, and I that of being the agent....

"We had a most delightful week of prayer the week before last. We felt indeed that the Lord was in our midst. We shall expect great blessings after such united supplications on the part of God's people, according to His own gracious promise. On the 31st inst. we are to have another day for prayer on behalf of medical missions, according to the appointment of the home society. Would that God would pour out His Holy Spirit on our Universities, that men may come and offer themselves for this glorious work!

"_March 6th, 1866._–_To be ready!_ What does this imply? Does it require some great effort or labour on my part to become ready for the coming of the Son of Man? Nay, I have only to believe in Jesus; He is my righteousness. In Him is all the Father requires. Blessed Jesus, how very very precious Thou art to me! Why should I ever hunger or thirst, when in Thee is fulness of all I need. Why should any perish, seeing that Jesus has done and suffered so much that we might have life. Let me, with humble, thankful, loving, joyful, and faithful heart, take this full salvation, and even _now_ feast upon it, even _now_ become rich through it, even _now_ rejoice with joy unspeakable and full of glory!" This precious thought regarding our completeness in Christ came out in an interesting form during his student days in Edinburgh. A patient of his was subject to attacks of cramp, and on one occasion fainted from the severity of the pain. When the sufferer emerged from unconsciousness, he found the hand of the young doctor resting gently on his clammy brow and exclaimed, 'Oh, doctor, to be ready, and to get away from this terrible suffering!' The doctor answered softly, '_You are always ready_ IN JESUS, _you will never be ready_ OUT OF HIM.'

"_March 7th, 1866._–Still labouring away in Amritsar, but intend to close my dispensary soon, and to pack up for the journey over the mountains. I continue to enjoy excellent health, and am very happy in soul. Jesus, my Saviour, becomes dearer and dearer to me every day. My faith in Him is growing stronger, and my delight in my work is also increasing. I am persuaded that to labour for Christ in this world is the greatest honour and the surest and speediest way to becoming strong and happy in the Lord.

"Last week we had a series of grand meetings here. Numbers of Europeans and native gentlemen met together for the purpose of discussing many points bearing on the social condition of this province. The first day was devoted to the delivery of speeches, and reading of addresses on different social questions. We met in a large tent, and the brilliant colouring of the dresses worn by the natives made the scene a most picturesque one. On the second day, prizes were given to all who had distinguished themselves at the recent examinations. The third day was the crowning one, because the wise and noble Governor of the province (a Scotchman, Mr. M‛Leod) honoured the meeting with his presence. On that day and on the next, I had the honour of dining with the Lieutenant Governor. On Thursday, he kindly offered to drive me to a conversazione, given to the native gentlemen. He made me sit by him in the carriage on his right hand, and spoke to me of Scotland. But now, dearest mother, I must stop short. My message for you is Genesis xv. 1, a lovely, true, and comforting word. Pray for me and for poor Kashmir. O may God richly bless you in soul and body.–Your ever loving son, WILLIE.

"_April 2d, 1866._–TO DR. CLEGHORN.–I brought my operations here to a close a short time ago, just immediately before we had our last meeting of committee. One day, while I was engaged in giving my lecture on chemistry, which I continued to do till the last, two of the honorary Magistrates of Amritsar waited on me, as a deputation from (what we should call) the Town Council, to request me to prolong my stay in Amritsar. I need not say that this was exceedingly gratifying to me, as a doctor and as a Christian; and my heart was filled with gratitude to our heavenly Father, who had graciously granted me such favour with the very people whose temporal and spiritual welfare are so dear to my heart. Thinking that I was connected with the Government, and that I was about to leave Amritsar on account of a Government order, the deputation said that they were prepared to draw up a petition to Mr. Egerton, the commissioner, and to have it signed, soliciting him to use his influence in getting the order for my departure cancelled. I explained all to them, and expressed my sorrow at not being able to be in two places at the same time; but that I felt it to be my duty to go to Kashmir, where my proper work lay. The time may be near when we shall see a large Medical Mission Hospital in Amritsar. There is room and need for it.... Just another item of news about our pet, and I must have done. Sir John Lawrence has sent a message to Mr. Macleod, the Lieutenant-Governer of the Punjaub, to request the Resident, this year, to inform the Maharajah of Kashmir, that his hostility to Christianity is not neutrality, and that his policy towards missions is unworthy of a prince of his enlightened views. This is the spirit of the message, but not the very words. 'The Lord reigneth!'

"_Lahore, 3d April, 1866._–Once more I am on my way to Kashmir, to delight in its beauty, and to cope with its sin and wretchedness.

"We had our annual meeting of the Kashmir Medical Mission a few days ago, and to me it was a very great pleasure to find that all the members were satisfied with the manner in which I had conducted the work in Kashmir. I need not tell you how glad I am for this, not so much on my own account as on account of the work I have so much at heart. 'If any man lack wisdom, let him ask of God, who giveth liberally and upbraideth not.' God is my wisdom; the constant cry of my inmost heart is, 'Make me truly wise to win souls, _keep me from doing a right thing in a wrong fashion_.' It does cheer me to remember that you, at least, are praying for me; we have to fight against a strong foe; the devil and his emissaries have long held the fort in Kashmir–poor perishing Kashmir, for whom I could weep all day. I have made my first attempt at Report-writing, and, like all my works, it displeases me: I suppose I never shall be pleased with anything I attempt to do or be, till I stand before God, clothed in the perfect righteousness of Christ; _then_ I shall be _perfectly satisfied_.

"I have sent off my servants and luggage to the borders of Kashmir, and, God willing, hope to set out myself about the 5th inst. I am well, and enabled to lay hold with a firmer grasp on the precious promises of God.

"By-the-bye, if you have not read 'God's Way of Peace,' and 'God's Way of Holiness,' do get them. They have helped me wonderfully. Ever praying that the God of grace and comfort may be with you, I remain your ever loving son, WILLIE."

"_April 9, 1866._–To-day left the hospitable roof of my friend and joint Secretary, Dr. Gray, and set off on the journey to Rawal Pindee. Had a long time alone for prayer, that God would greatly prosper my own soul, making it spiritually fragrant and verdant, that thus I might be enabled to serve Him more truly. Oh, that He would grant to me and all who work with me a double portion of His Spirit, without whose vitalising influence no eternal good can accrue from our efforts. My beloved Saviour, in Thy strength I go up–_strong in Thee_. I enter an enemy's country to fight with Thy weapons the common foe.

"_10th._–A military man is my fellow traveller. Wishing to unfurl my colours, I asked a blessing aloud at breakfast. He did not like my doing so. My soul is very sun-shiny just now. God be praised.

"_13th._–Long march to Haripur. Sat down under a clump of trees and read Schönberg-Cotta Family. The female characters in it are beautifully drawn. The approaching campaign in Kashmir much in my thoughts to-day, and I have had great joy and peace in making over the care of it all to the great Care-bearer. Blessed Jesus, _go with me_!

"_April 16th._–I look on no trial now in the same light as formerly, when I had not tested fully how good the Lord is! The child of God is lifted above the world when there subsists between him and his Saviour a vital union–the union of faith. This union makes the believer invincible. He may be cast down, but he will speedily rise again, to become stronger than before. This is the effect of the divine schooling. It educates the man for the battle of this life, as well as for the life which is to come.

"_18th._–Left Abbottabad with the Rev. Mr. Wade of Peshawur. Road to Manserah very beautiful, passing through extensive pine forests, scenery more and more grand. Reached the Jhelum about 3 P.M., and crossed it by the rope bridge. The current is rapid and the river eighty yards across at this point.

"_19th._–Busy all morning with sick people who had obeyed my summons in great numbers. Qadir Bakhsh addressed them on the opening verses of our Lord's Sermon on the Mount. Journey from Muzufferabad to Do Patta long, and our ponies insufferably bad. About half way my animal stumbled, and down he went. The severity of the blow fell on my right shoulder and side, and at first I really thought some part of the bony apparatus had been fractured. It was some time before I could move, but at last remounted and rode till I could bear the excruciating pain no longer. Walked slowly to the resting place.

"_20th._–Spent to-day in bed, resting my arm and doctoring myself. Qadir Bakhsh addressed the sick, and the native doctor prescribed so far as he could.

"_April 21st._–Starting at 7 A.M., reached Khanda at 1 P.M., having walked all the way. Very much better to-day. The Nawab of the district sent to ask me for two bottles of wine for his horse. Had some doubt that the article was for himself, not for the horse, and was glad to be able to say I had no wine with me. The chief men of this village confirm my suspicions that the wine was for himself, although he is a Mussulman. Told the people, who came to pay their respects to us, something of God's love to fallen man, and gave notice of a reception of the sick to-morrow morning.

"_22d, Sunday._–Early this morning had a gathering of the sick. Twenty-three came, and Qadir Bakhsh addressed them. The Rev. J. R. Wade held service in the afternoon. Another reception of sick in the evening.

"_24th._–Much hawthorn on the way to-day, the fragrance of which was delicious. Visited the tomb of a Mussulman, and was allowed to enter. Within the court a square building of trellis-work, which we entered, and then within a screen, we saw the tomb.

In the evening saw twenty sick people, and addressed them from John iii. 15. Gave two men who could read, copies of St. John's Gospel. Lord, water this seed sown!

"_April 25th, 1866, Gingal._–Terrible thunder storm overtook us on our march to-day, saw a splendid trough cut out of the solid rock. Reception of patients as usual.

"_26th._–Scenery on the way from Gingal to Baramula perfectly sublime. The proud mountains bearing their glistening crowns of snow, the nearer ones clothed with dark-coloured majestic pines. Passed some very ancient ruins, which we thought bore traces of Buddhist origin. Immediately on our arrival here, engaged four large boats for ourselves, servants, and luggage. After tea loosed our moorings and sailed away up the river, which, on account of the melting of snow, is much larger than usual.

"_27th._–What a rest after the toils of the journey this delicious sailing is! Spent the day in admiring the surpassingly beautiful scenery of this fairest portion of God's earth, and in prayer for its spiritual emancipation. One cannot help seeing that the marvellous capabilities of the country are but partially developed, the cultivation is very imperfect, the buildings seem everywhere to be falling into ruins, and the people are rendered indolent and heartless by oppressive taxation."