Chapter XII: Third Year's Work in Kashmir

Again Dr. Elmslie strikes his tent, and leaving Chamba, starts for another campaign in Kashmir. These constant changes are very trying. His first letter _en route_ is dated

"_Goojerat, 17th April 1867._–MY EVER DEAREST MOTHER,–I am now on my way to Kashmir, and am hopeful that the season may be a blessed and prosperous one. I am sure I am followed by earnest prayers for my success as a winner of souls to our blessed Saviour. This only is worth living for.

"_Journal, 18th._–Left Goojerat early in the morning along with the Rev. R. Paterson. After resting a little while on our arrival at Bimbhar, we went together into the city. Passing along the bazaar I saw several cases of disease, and as I stopped to examine one or two of them we were soon surrounded by a little crowd. One man in the throng was very earnest and importunate that we should go and see a female relative, who, he said, was very ill. We went, and, as a good many people were gathered near the house, I asked Mr. P. to address them. This he did, and they seemed interested. We were importuned to go and see another case of illness. There is no lack of opportunity everywhere. Oh, God, bless the seed sown for Thine own name's sake! About a dozen sick people were waiting our return, but, as the daylight was almost gone, I was obliged to dismiss the little company, with the request that they would return next morning.

"_19th._–Mr. P. left me and returned to Goojerat. The patients returned this morning, and were treated. On the way from Bimbhar to Saidabad I met a number of camels laden with salt, on their way to Kashmir. Read Arnold's life on the journey. Admire the man.

"_21st.–Sunday._–I am resting in this picturesque village, Nowshera, to-day, having arrived yesterday evening, after a good ride from Saidabad. I held a reception of the sick, and my assistant, Thomas, addressed them in a very simple, earnest way. After this I held service with the servants, and in the afternoon went into the little town, where I saw an old dilapidated serai, which is said to have been built by the Mogul emperor, Shah Jehan. On the roof of this ruinous building a trial for theft was being carried on. In the evening had a second reception for the sick. Treated in all 85 patients to-day.

"_22d._–Started from Nowshera at 6.30; reached Chungas Serai about 1 P.M. The road good. Captain –– is here, and we dined together. After a struggle with myself I summoned courage to ask a blessing aloud. What a religious coward I sometimes am!

"_23d.–Rajaori._–Twenty-five sick people here. Addressed them on John iii. 16. Jesus Christ is the only balm for a sinner's wounds. Nothing but Jesus will do. The people's interest increased as I went on, and they gathered more closely round me to hear better. One man said that the prophets were good and holy, and had interest in heaven to procure us blessings, especially salvation. I answered that their own testimony was that they were themselves sinners, and therefore needed a Saviour to atone for their sin. No one could save us without bearing the penalty due, even death. Oh, that God may bless His own Word for His own glory!

"_24th.–Dhanna._–How glad I am that I had an opportunity of bearing medical testimony in favour of total abstinence in presence of Captain ––! It may be helpful to him. We had a large gathering of sick people to-day.

"_25th._–After proceeding for a short time along the Pir Panjal route, I turned to the left and began the ascent of the Ratan Pir, which is by no means easy. The descent is particularly rough, and my boxes were a good deal damaged by to-day's journey. This place–Surim–is not a town, but only a number of houses scattered on the hillside.

"_28th.–Kahuta, Sunday._–We have had two receptions here, and a large number of sick people attended. The little son of a distant Nawab was brought to me by a servant. The little fellow was suffering from partial paralysis of the lower extremities, caused by bathing in cold water when in a state of perspiration.

"_29th._–Through the snow to-day, and across the Haji Pir, 7000 feet above sea level.–_Hyderabad._

"_30th._–Uri.–A most beautiful march from Hyderabad. Passed a lovely waterfall on the right hand of the stream along which we marched. Its height is about 50 feet. The mountains have their summits crowned with snow; soft, white clouds nestle in their bosoms or float down their rugged cliffs. The firs wear their beautiful fresh green, and the other trees present a variety of lovely blossoms; the flowers, the birds, the ever-changing face of the landscape, all lighted up by the glorious sun! Who can behold such scenes without lifting up the heart in thankfulness to Him who has clothed His earth with such beauty and grandeur? I visited the dilapidated-looking fort which guards the road near Uri. It boasts of one brass gun of 10 lbs. and four iron ones of smaller calibre. The Nawab whom I here treated two years before came to see me, and stayed to the address given to the sick. He listened attentively while I spoke on 'The wages of sin is death,' and he answered questions intelligently. May the Spirit of Life quicken him!

"_Nowshera, May 1st._–Left Uri at 6.15, and arrived here at 11.45. March a long one, but the scenery very lovely and grand. I intimated my readiness to receive the sick from the neighbouring houses, but the moonshee of the place told me the people here think that one day's medicine could be of no avail.

"_2d.–On the River Jhelum._–This morning started from Nowshera for Baramula, where we arrived about 10 A.M., and at once hired two large boats to convey us to Srinagar. Sailed at noon. The change from walking to sailing delightful. The view we had of the valley from Baramula hill is most enchanting. The valley lies encircled by lofty mountains, whose peaks are white with snow. The mountains on the north and east of the valley seem as if the materials of which they are composed had at one time been molten, and as if, while in this state, they had been lashed into great waves, and then suddenly set into their abrupt forms. They are remarkably barren. The mountainous ridge on the south and west has a more diversified outline, and two or three very lofty peaks towards the south form a grand offset to the whole range. The quantity of snow on the northern aspect of this mountain boundary is much greater than that on the southern range. Reached Sopur about 6 P.M. This is a picturesque-looking town on the western extremity of the Wular lake, through which the Jhelum flows. Sleeping in one's boat is cold at this season.

"_3d._–Awoke early and found we were still sailing on the spacious Wular lake. Much engaged in prayer for God's blessing on me and mine, and on His own work. Very happy from trust in Jesus. Reached Srinagar about 5 P.M., and at once called on the Rev. A. Brinckman.

"_4th._–Early this morning I took possession of the bungalow I occupied last year. Paid my boatmen 3 rupees, which is the proper price for the journey from Baramula. Gave the men each 8d. as bakhshish, but found that the Maharajah's officials were already on the spot to take from them the usual tax at the rate of one anna on the rupee, Breakfasted with Mr. Brinckman–called on the Resident. Busy the rest of the day in getting my house into order. Dedicated myself and all that I am to God afresh, imploring His gracious blessing on my work and my people.

"_Sunday, May 5th._–Divine service at the Residency. In the evening the Rev. Mr. Walsh, American missionary from Futtegurh, held a Hindustani service which was pretty well attended.

"_6th._–I heard to-day by a letter, from the Rev. Mr. Ferguson of Chamba, that the Rajah of that state has declared that henceforth there shall be the widest religious toleration in his territories. This is joyful news, the Lord's name be praised! Dined with Major Maclean, and at half-past six, attended the first prayer-meeting of the season at the Rev. Mr. Walsh's house; it was a delightful meeting. Spirit much refreshed.

"_9th._–Opened the dispensary to-day–four present. In God's strength I hope to be more diligent than ever before, in spreading the glorious gospel of God's marvellous grace, and in everything which my hand finds to do for God's glory. _I must_ study Persian: it is an essential part of Kashmiri; Lord, help me!

"_10th._–Ten patients present to-day. Read the parable of the Prodigal Son which I always find arresting to the people. One man told me that a Government officer had tried to prevent his coming to me, by urging him to go to the Government Dispensary, where medicine, clothing, and food would be got for nothing. I took the man to the Resident, but, as his house is surrounded by spies, the poor man was timid in his answers to all the inquiries put to him. The result of the examination proved, however, that the people have been prohibited from attending the Mission Dispensary. Here the matter ended. The shed built by order of the Maharajah for the dispensary last year is still uninhabitable, I have complained to the Baboo in charge of English affairs, and he promises to have it completed. [This was never done.] Persian for two hours.

"_11th._–The man whom I took to the Commissioners yesterday has not returned to-day, I fear some mischief has befallen him.

"_Sabbath, May 12th._–The man referred to is still absent, and the attendance of patients so small that I fear there is truth in the report I have heard–_i.e._, that the sepoys are employed to prevent the sick from coming to me. I am told that during my absence the Diwan exacted a written promise from the Pundits to the effect that they should never again come to the Padre Doctor Sahib, on the penalty of a fine of 500 rupees.

After divine service at the Residency, I had a large gathering of the blind beggars of Srinagar in the tent, when I read to them the story of the blind man who saw men as trees walking. After the address they each received a small gratuity, and were told to return next Sabbath. O Lord, bless this effort to open the eyes of the blind!

"_13th._–Rained very heavily. Began Materia Medica and Chemistry Class with my native doctor and assistants.

"_16th._–Still only five patients. I do fear that the local Government is using some means of preventing the sick from coming, but the Lord reigneth!

"_17th._–Nine patients present. Oh, my God, how helpless I am! my trust must be in Thee only.

"_18th._–Still only a few patients present. A man and a woman told me they had been sent away by a sepoy stationed at the gate through which they had to pass from the city; they came round another way. Went to the city to see Samad Shah, shawl merchant, who is ill, and on the way stopped at the house of my Kashmiri Pundit, who ought to have come to me last Monday. Found him at home and well; he stated that he had been prohibited from coming to me, on pain of imprisonment, fine, and the destruction of his house. He also informed me that a prohibition had been issued by the Diwan, to the effect that no one was to go to the Padre Doctor; the penalty–imprisonment and fine. The Pundit also told my catechist that inquiry had been made as to what wages he had received from Mr. Brinckman and me, and that employment was to be given him to the same amount.

"_Sabbath, May 19th._–Went out very early this morning and met an old man and woman, who said, in answer to my inquiry where they were going, 'to the Doctor Sahib's.' I asked if they were not afraid, they answered 'yes,' for they had been on their way to me yesterday, but had been beaten and sent away by sepoys stationed near one of the bridges. They came to the dispensary, and in the presence of Mr. Brinckman, my catechist, and native doctor, told me exactly the same story. A sepoy, evidently a spy sent to report who were present at this morning's reception, was asked to sit down, and he heard the gospel for once in his life.

"_21st._–My catechist tells me that copies of the prohibition have been given to each zilladar, and that more active measures are being taken to prevent the people from coming to my dispensary. They dare not come. The poor old man and woman who ventured to come on Sunday, were beaten publicly, and their names with all particulars were noted. An old pundit has attended at each morning's reception, for the purpose of writing the names of all present. To-day I sent him about his business.

"_Srinagar, May 27th, 1867._–MY DEAREST MOTHER.–You will see by the heading of this letter, that I am again in Kashmir. The journey to the valley this year was rather difficult, owing to the amount of snow on the high mountains we had to pass, two of which are about twice the height of Ben Nevis. We were busy on the way, as formerly, in telling of Jesus and His marvellous love, and in dispensing medicines and advice. My dispensary is now fairly opened, but I grieve to say that the usual number of patients have not yet taken advantage of it. The native Government do all in their power to oppose me, and I sometimes despond and think my lot a trying one, being cast among so down-trodden and degraded a people. At such times a voice seems to say to me, 'Wait patiently on the Lord; in due season ye shall reap _if ye faint not_.' Assured that the Lord reigneth I shall stick to my post, and you, dear mother, can help me much by prayer. In the secrecy of your own chamber, meet me often at the throne of grace, and thus you will do genuine mission work of the most exalted character. Be like Jacob–wrestle with God in prayer, and, through faith in our beloved Saviour, you will win the victory. He loves to bless us; He delights to grant our requests, but He will try us first whether we desire them with all our hearts. Pray much for poor enslaved Kashmir. Few take pity on her and the evils which exist, and which daily come before my eyes, are inconceivable!... My word of comfort for you today is Lam. iii.–Your ever loving and dutiful son, WILLIAM.

"_Sabbath, June 2d._–Received from the chaplain Rs. 12, 15a. 6p., to be distributed among the poor. Had my usual meeting with the blind and lame. Qadir Bakhsh addressed them, after which I distributed among them three annas each. While I was doing so one of the boatmen of Mr. L.'s boat, which was lying close by, robbed a poor old blind man of his few paise. Mr. B. saw it, and pursued the man, made him restore the money, and took away his turban for the purpose of identification. On complaining of him to his master, he received such a thorough beating that I do not mean to say anything further about this. I have sent a report of the past month's opposition to the Resident, and he means to forward it to headquarters.

"_June 16th._–Cholera has appeared among the troops; to-day six men died. Sher Ali Khan, the Pathan, has been fined 200 rupees, and the merchants in the city have been forbidden to supply him with provisions because he is suspected of being a Christian. Eighteen were present at the Dispensary this morning, and I think they were more anxious than in former years to hear the Gospel. Their hearts seem softer and more impressible. The Rev. W. Walsh has written to ask one of his sons in America to devote himself to Medical Missions. Lord, let Thy kingdom come!

_19th June, 1867._–TO C. J. RODGERS, ESQ.–"... I sympathise deeply with you in your domestic loss. If the attractive power of the unseen and eternal world be increased to you through this means however, then you will yet rejoice and thank God for this tribulation. Heaven is our home, all that is most precious and desirable is there, Jesus our Divine Saviour and Friend is there, besides many dear ones. Let us then not sorrow as those that are without hope!

"The training of Christian native teachers is a noble work. May God grant you strength and grace to accomplish it. Let us not be weary in well-doing, for in due season we _shall_ reap, _if we faint not_.

"I am meeting with unusual opposition from the native Government this year. Cholera has been committing its ravages among the Maharajah's troops, but we trust the efforts made to check the progress of this awful scourge may be blessed. Pray for us in this trying crisis.

"_Journal, 20th._–Cholera has broken out in the city, and an order is issued by the Resident forbidding any people to come to the European quarters. I wrote a polite letter in Persian to the Diwan, expressing my deep sorrow at the sad news which I hourly receive of deaths in the city from cholera. I said I should be delighted to assist him with advice and personal attendance. Have received no answer. Am studying hard. As Mr. Clark says:–'While the door of ministry to the sick is closed, God may open the door of my lips. He may give me the gift of this difficult language, and touch my tongue as with fire. May He grant me wisdom and patience!'"

The journals during the months of May and June are filled with instances of the opposition of Government, and the sufferings of the people; that of July recounts daily visits to the city, where cholera raged for seven weeks. A few notices may be given.

"_Journal, June 29th._–Nursed Colonel S. to-day. He is very ill but peaceful.

"_July 1st._–Went early this morning to see Colonel S. His spirit passed away at 7.45. May the Lord comfort his family, and bless this heavy trial to me and to all who knew him! This is the first case the least resembling cholera which has occurred amongst Europeans here.

"_7th._–To-day recovering from a threatening of cholera. The Rev. Mr. B. and I had a long conversation with two Kashmiris, who have been for some time inquiring after the truth. They stated their disbelief in the Koran: they firmly believe it to be false. They gave instances wherein statements made in it contradict each other. They believe Jesus Christ to be the Son of God, equal with God the Father, and the only Saviour of men. They say they have taken Him to be their Saviour, and now wish to receive baptism. Their answers to all our questions were remarkably satisfactory, yet they have not been long inquirers, and I feel disposed to recommend delay. What was the apostolic practice (?) that must guide us. Told them to return on Wednesday.

"_9th._–Abadu and Alunad Jan returned, and declared their desire to receive baptism. We again spoke to them about the way of salvation, and asked them to consider the momentous nature of the step they were about to take. We put the whole case before them, and urged them to make their decision prayerfully.

"_11th._–Abadu and Alunad Jan returned to-day, and after again trying to give them a true view of what it is to be a Christian, we agreed that it would be wrong to withhold the rite of baptism from them. They were baptized in the Medical Mission Bungalow, in the presence of all my servants. May the Lord bless and keep them, for doubtless a stormy future lies before them, if they remain steadfast to their Saviour. After the baptism, Mr. Brinckman left for Gulmarg–the 'meadow of flowers' is the Kashmiri signification of this name. Here the Resident and European visitors spend most of the summer.

"_13th._–Sailed down the river to the Habba Kadal, where cholera seems to be worst. There I visited 28 cases of indubitable cholera. I was gladly welcomed even by the women, who remained in their houses instead of fleeing from me, as they usually do. Hindoos and Mussulmans alike ask me to come into their houses, and there is no purda-work now."

More than once formerly Dr. Elmslie was called to give advice to native ladies, in cases of serious illness, but he was obliged to judge of the case with the usual thick veil between him and his patient, through a hole in which he examined the tongue. He was not troubled with veils in the present emergency.

"No wonder that cholera carries off hundreds of victims here, for the poverty, filth, and distress which prevail are most favourable agents for its development. To-day saw many dead bodies carried out of the city for cremation....

"_14th._–Several of my patients much better to-day. Going into the house of a poor man, who was very ill, a few days ago, I found him discussing a quantity of boiled rice and vegetables with an apparently keen appetite,–his wife, with her baby in her arms, looking on with a face beaming with joy. Her words of gratitude flowed in swift torrents; and it did make me happy to think I had, under God's blessing, been the means of saving that life. Received a fresh supply of medicines to-day, and have made a large quantity of pills for distribution through the city.... Had a large congregation of beggars, who heard the gospel in its fulness of blessed promise, and received alms. The two converts were present at service to-day, and seem anxious to learn the will of God. The Resident urges me to go to Gulmarg. I feel exhausted, but cannot leave. The cry of woe reaches me wherever I go. I am alone among 127,000, and the utmost I can do is but like a drop in the ocean.

"_16th._–Went to the quarter inhabited by people from the Punjaub, where, I had been told, that there were many cases of cholera. Saw fifteen. One poor woman's jaw was dislocated on both sides from excessive yawning. I reduced the dislocation in a few moments, much to the astonishment of her friends. Heard to-day that search is being made for the two men who were baptized. The Baboo called during my absence to examine my servants.

"_18th._–Dear Mr. Brinckman has returned. In company with him and my servant, saw thirty cases. Every one glad to receive our medicine. I hear that a Mussulman fakir has offered to cause the cholera to disappear, and that the Diwan has given him money on condition that his promise is fulfilled within three days. This is now the sixth day since the bargain was made, but there is no abatement. Saw one remarkable case: Patient, a man of 30, recovering from worst symptoms, but gradually consecutive fever supervened, and with it a red or purple rash, like that of measles, slightly raised above surrounding skin, disappearing on pressure and returning on removal of pressure.

"_23d._–Quantities of unripe fruit are daily sold in the bazaars. This, with the filthiness of the whole city, accounts for the development of the epidemic. The Diwan has requested the British Resident to command me not to visit the cholera patients in the city. He has refused to give such an inhuman command. I have been going to the city ever since I was sure that cholera existed, and shall continue to do as I have done.

"_26th._–Mr. Brinckman has returned to Gulmarg. I should have been extremely lonely but for him. The majority of cases met with in my rounds to-day are very bad. One poor boy had lost father and mother within the past few days, and seemed very ill himself. Made an arrangement to have him cared for. Met the hakim of the district, who confessed that he knew nothing of medicine, but had been sent by the Diwan to distribute the same medicines as the hakims in other districts were giving the sick. Those, he said, were arak, and one or two carminatives. On my way home met boats containing ten dead bodies.

"_29th._–Received a letter from Dr. Dallas, authorising me to spend 100 rupees among the distressed in the city. Sent for native banker, and bade him give me 10 rupees in paise. He gave 600 instead of 640, telling me that the local government orders the English rupee to be valued at 15 annas instead of 16. Made him write this statement on paper, and sent it to proper quarter, with inquiry as to its truth. Had a large gathering of blind and lame in the Chinar Bagh. Distributed 10 rupees among them.

"_August 1st._–Mr. Brinckman came back on 30th. We translated a charm against cholera which has been issued by order of His Highness the Maharajah. Each copy is sold for four annas. It directs the possessors to perform certain acts of worship and to give alms, assuring them that in so doing they are safe from the plague.

"_2d._–Great storm of wind and rain for about an hour. May good result from this!

"_8th._–Mr. Brinckman sent for the Baboo in order to obtain a pass for Abadu and Alunad Jan, that they may accompany Mr. B. to the Punjaub. We said we wished them to be known as distinct from Mr. B.'s servants, being Christians, who, as such, were leaving the valley. He objected, but in the evening brought a '_parwana_,' saying that they had been included as Mr. B.'s servants. Against this we protested. Saw Mr. Brinckman off. May God bless him! I feel very happy just now. Jesus is more precious to me than ever. My will _seems_ to be more submissive to God....

"_13th._–Pestilence seems to be on the wane. Saw thirteen patients to-day. Met my old pundit, who tells me it would be as much as his life is worth to come and see me. My heart much drawn out in prayer for the salvation of my assistants. Have mercy on them, O God!

"_21st._–Rained heavily. I spent all forenoon in the city with my assistant and catechist, and saw seven new cases of cholera. Two of those were boys, both of whom were left orphans within the last month. What is to be done with the many orphans?... My assistant, a Brahmin, received a letter from Jummoo to-day, asking him to become editor of the newspaper which the Maharajah proposes to publish, containing news from all parts of his territories. He has declined the honour. Called at Amiri Kadal dispensary; no cholera patients; but saw a case of cancer of the breast being treated with poultices. Also case of nasal polypus; the tumour had not been touched, although the nose had been slit open; poultices were being applied.

"_24th._–Feel very weak to-day. Mr. A. called for me.... After some deeply interesting conversation we prayed together that God might strengthen both of us to walk before Him holily all the days of our life. May God bless this young man and help him with His all-sufficient grace! The Cordon is still in force.

"_25th._–Few new cases now. Met my congregation of beggars, and distributed first the Word of Life, then 10 rupees, amongst them. Mr. A. spent part of evening with me. Lord, bless him, keep him in Thy ways, give him no rest till he has found it in Christ! Very dissatisfied with myself. The spiritual life within me is not vigorous; indeed it is very weak and alloyed. O God, purify it–quicken it–strengthen it–renew it! Let love reign within me–make it the motive power of my inner man!

"_26th._–Mr. A. breakfasted with me. Much interested in him. May God keep him!

"_28th._–Saw four new cases of cholera to-day and two old cases. Took tea with Sher Ali, the Pathan, this evening. Saw his old father and his two fine boys. Sat with them on the floor, like a native, eating rice and fowl. This was followed by a large dish of almonds, then tea, made very thick, so that I almost mistook it for chocolate. On my way home I met a lad in great distress, and he told me that Mahdu Ku Karn had forcibly taken away his little sisters and sold them, one to Mahommed Bakhsh, merchant, the other to a man in the city. Lord, have mercy on Kashmir, for this is not an uncommon case!

"_Sept. 4._–Heard the sad news from Mr B. that his dear wife was seized with cholera on the journey, and died at Abbottabad. O God, comfort my sorrowing friend, who so joyfully helped me during these weeks of trial!... Great sorrow is felt at this everywhere. In the evening had a long and interesting talk with Mr A. May God continue the good work in him!

"_Sept. 5._–This morning received a letter from the civil surgeon, requesting me to come immediately to assist him in a case at Baba Murishi. After making necessary arrangements started at 9 A.M., and reached journey's end at 10 P.M.

"_Sept. 6_.–This morning assisted Dr. J. in stopping the hæmorrhage proceeding from the wound from which Major –– was suffering. As Major –– expressed a wish that I should remain and travel with him to-morrow. I have consented to wait. Went this evening to see Gulmarg, a beautiful little mountain valley it is.

"_7th._–Set out at 7 A.M. with Major ––, who was carried all the way on a charpae to Suttaupur. We reached it about 4 P.M., and I started at once for Srinagar in my little boat.

"_Sunday, Sept. 8._–Arrived here (Srinagar) about 4 A.M. and found a letter from the Resident, informing me that he had removed the Cordon Sanitaire. Had my gathering of blind and lame in the mission tent to-day. Finished reading Goulburn's 'Thoughts on Personal Religion.'

"_9th._–Re-opened dispensary, but few patients were present, the guard of sepoys still being posted at the avenues.

"_12th._–Had some interesting talk with the Pathan to-day. He allows that the Christian religion is vastly superior to theirs, and that its effects are wonderful on those who with the heart embrace its doctrines, and make them the rule of life. I am hopeful of this man, but the love of money and the fear of man are strong in him. O God, grant him the enlightening influences of thy Holy Spirit! To-day a remarkable scene took place. A Hindu fakir, who has frequently come to the mission premises for conversation on religious subjects, returned a few days ago from a pilgrimage. He happened to see a Hindu bathing in the Jhelum to-day, praying at the same time. The fakir called to him, and said that he must not suppose that there was any efficacy in washing with water. He said–'Ever so much water can never wash away sin; only the atonement paid by Christ can suffice to do that.' He then spoke of the Christian religion being the only true one. He was overheard by one of the Maharajah's servants, who gave him into the charge of a sepoy. Orders have been given to see him out of Kashmir without delay.

"_15th._–A Mullah, who has been a bitter enemy to the Gospel, called on me to-day. He seems softened. I tried to lay the Gospel scheme before him, and to show its adaptability to fallen man's every want. Qadir Bakhsh joined us, and we prayed in turn for him in his presence, that God would graciously grant His Holy Spirit to teach him. Dined with M––. May God lead him into the truth; he is groping after it.

"_20th._–The Pathan and his eldest son took tea with me this evening: they ate heartily of everything, much to my surprise, as in former days they have refused to touch what has been prepared by my Christian servant. He told me much about the war in Cabul, about the advance of the Russians, &c.; then consulted me about the education of his two sons. O God, give him Thy light.

"_22d._–Read Judson's Life again with much pleasure. O God, make me like him in so far as he resembled my precious Saviour! Mr. A–– called, and brought me a present of beautiful peaches. We have long talks together. I think the truth is taking firm hold of him.

"_29th._–Read Whately's essay on the 'Love of Truth.' Mr. A–– was present at our native service.

"_30th._–Sixty patients present. A Hindu called on me, he had been in the service of the Maharajah, Dhuleep Sing, in England; he has travelled a great deal, and expresses great admiration of the English nation.

"_October 4th._–Received a notice from the Resident, to the effect that all visitors must quit the valley on the 15th inst. An order has been received from the Maharajah, by the Jagirdars for 1,400 maunds of grain to be sent by coolies to Gilghil. There are 45 Jagirdars in Kashmir, only 5 of whom are Mussalmans, the remaining 40 are Hindoos.

"_10th._–Saw a great crowd of coolies preparing to set off to the seat of war, with grain, &c., for the troops. Two regiments are gone, and another is going. Every village is bereft of its male inhabitants with the exception of the old men. Had a long talk with K. S. a Sikh, who came to our service to-day–a good attendance at dispensary.

"_14th._–Removed an enormous fibrous tumour from the right breast of a poor woman. This and many other cases require close attention, and I am obliged to close the dispensary to-morrow, and next day must prepare to leave.

"_16th._–Many recovered patients came to show themselves. When the Baboo in the service of his Highness the Maharajah, called with my parwana (passport), I spoke to him on the subject of Christianity. He is very blind spiritually, and what he sees of Christians so-called prejudices him effectually against Christianity. God can give him light. Received the usual parting present from his Highness. It consisted of two sheep, some sugar, tea, flower, salt, condiments, butter, and a few eggs.

"_17th._–Temper much tried by the slowness of my servants, and delay in arrival of boats. God enable me to keep my temper."

Before starting with Dr. Elmslie on his journey to Amritsar, a few extracts from letters to friends written in Srinagar during this season, may serve to throw light on some of the points touched upon in his Journal, and may supply one or two items of additional information. To Mrs. Cleghorn on 9th July, 1867, he writes:–

"The present season in Kashmir has been a most eventful one to the medical mission. It appears that the local Government and the Mussulman Mullahs are now greatly afraid of us, especially as two of their priests have become Christians. The result of this fear and hatred has been great hostility and opposition to my work. From the very beginning of the season, sepoys were placed at the entrances of all the avenues leading from the city to the European quarters. These sentries confessed themselves, that their orders were to stop the sick from going to the Padre Doctor Sahib, as they style me. Some were allowed to pass on, giving the sepoys some money; others who were caught coming to me were roughly handled and beaten, some were fined, and others were imprisoned. The fact that the local Government of Kashmir were thus forcibly preventing the poor, helpless sick of the city of Srinagar, and of the valley generally, from frequenting the Medical Mission Dispensary, became known to the Supreme Government of India, and they sent a request to the Government of the Punjaub to investigate the matter. The British Resident, who is a Christian man, showed me the request, and asked me to state my experience and opinion. This I did, and my report was sent up to the Punjaub Government, who are convinced of the fact, and strongly urge the Supreme Government to adopt measures to put a stop to such cruel, bigoted, and tyrannical proceedings on the part of the Native Government of Kashmir.

"Just as the hostility and opposition of the local Government of Kashmir had reached a climax, cholera broke out amongst his Highness's troops. It appears that some sepoys who had got leave to go and wash in the Ganges at Hardwar, had returned to their regiment at Srinagar, and brought the seeds of cholera with them. At any rate, those sepoys had scarcely arrived, when that awful pestilence broke out and began to carry off many. Everything was done to prevent the spread of the disease, but it at last invaded the city; and the British Resident deemed it necessary, for the safety of the European visitors, to institute a _Cordon Sanitaire_ round the European quarters. As my dispensary is situated there, I was compelled to put a stop to my work for a time. When it was intimated to the suffering sick, that they were not to return to the dispensary until they should receive intimation to do so, the scene can be more easily fancied than described. It would have melted a heart of stone. Since then, I have visited the city almost daily, and done what I could to alleviate the sufferings of the miserable inhabitants, many of whom are daily carried off with cholera. More than a fortnight ago, I sent a most polite letter, in Persian, to the Diwan, or native Viceroy, expressing my sorrow at the heavy calamity that had fallen on his people, and offering him my professional advice, and personal assistance, in this trying emergency. He promised to reply to my letter the day following its receipt, but, up to the present time, I have not heard from him. This is cruelty, bigotry, and tyranny with a vengeance. The poor people of the city are sadly neglected, even by those who ought to take some care of them."

Referring to the same subject in a letter of 13th July to Mrs. Col. Lake, he says:–"In spite of the sepoys, about two hundred and fifty sick have found their way to me. This number, however, is only about one-sixth of what ought to have attended, when compared with the numbers of last season." Adverting to the cholera, he says in the same letter:–"I am left alone here, with my dispensary still closed, as the _Cordon_ has not yet been authoritatively removed. I am not idle, however, as I spend daily several hours in the city amongst the poor people, doing all I can to alleviate their sufferings. This morning I visited and treated twenty-eight cases of cholera; and while on my way home, I saw the bodies of three men being carried away for cremation and burial. It is awfully solemnizing work. This pestilence may be the Lord's messenger for the punishment of some, and for the after good of the valley. I have had a presentiment for some time that God is about to work a change in Kashmir."

To another friend he writes:–

"_Srinagar, 15th July 1867._–MY DEAR BURNS THOMSON,–Your very welcome and refreshing letter of January last is now before me. Let me answer its items one by one; and in doing so we shall have cause to rejoice and heartily to thank God for His unmerited goodness to us. Our little medical mission friend, the _Journal_, is always a welcome visitor with me; indeed it often comes in, just when I most need a word of comfort. I feel greatly stimulated and encouraged when I hear of what others are doing for our unspeakably precious Saviour and a perishing world. The labour you spend on the _Journal_ is therefore well spent. It is a great and necessary work to be fishing for new labourers, but it is an equally great and necessary work that those who are already in the field do their work contentedly, patiently, joyfully, lovingly, and faithfully. Your little _Journal_ helps me in some measure so to work. Ever welcome, therefore, to our little friend! Your graphic sketches about the Arabs delight me much. Continue them. When you have finished the Arabs, why not begin a series of such sketches of a general nature about your home work? What I mean by general is not sticking to one subject, but making suitable selections from your note-book. And such a note-book yours must be! With God's blessing such pictures are likely to do the medical mission cause good, and to gain for it new friends to fill the place of old ones. Verily the cause needs new recruits. Miller away, Coldstream away, Jackson away, Craigie away, and others. Ah! Thomson, when shall we who are graciously allowed to remain labour for Christ as we ought, with our money, our gifts, and all that God has been pleased to bestow upon us? When shall we convert the _meum_ into the _tuum_, and look upon all that we possess as Christ's, and only His? You mention that you and dear Mrs. B. T. try to hold up my hands at family worship and at your prayer-meetings. Let me tell you, for your encouragement, I feel it–I know it. I was never so happy all my life as I am now. Not that I am without troubles and trials of a very heavy description; but in spite of them I rejoice–yea, in them I rejoice, for they drive me the oftener and the quicker to the sheltering, sympathizing breast of Jesus. But in the midst of much to discourage me–of which I shall speak by and bye–God is graciously pleased to give me great reason for gladness and gratitude. I rejoice that God has added two more Kashmiris to His Church. Yes, my dear Thomson, I suppose you are, like me, gladly astonished. What a large element of sheer unbelief there is in our faith! It is nevertheless true that on Thursday last, in this very house of mine, Abadu, clerk or moonshee, and Alunad Jan, shawl-maker, were both baptized by the Rev. Mr. ––, in presence of the medical mission servants. The men were subjected to a very searching examination as to the reason of the faith which they were professing, and their answers were very satisfactory. May the Lord _keep_ these two men, and spare them to become preachers of His gospel to their perishing fellow-countrymen! They both possess very fair abilities, and it is my intention, God willing, to take them with me to the Punjaub for further instruction, should I, at the end of this season, be compelled to leave the valley."

"_Srinagar, 2d Sept. 1867._–MY DEAR M.,–I long to hear from you. How are you and Mrs. M. in this season of sudden death?...

"I don't forget you, my dear M. How sweet a thought it is to know that Jesus never forgets His people–any of His people. Oh, if we were only wise enough to open wide all the doors and windows of our souls, that the sunshine might come in to cheer and gladden us! 'Rejoice evermore!' Let me hear soon, if you have a moment to spare."

"_Srinagar, 28th Sept. 1867._–MY DEAR MRS. THOMSON,–Your long and most interesting letter of the 14th June duly reached me and is now before me. Let me tell you, by way of a secret, that such goods always bring a high, very high, price in this out-of-the-way market. I heartily pity those missionaries who are not blessed with such letters! Speak a word, a quiet word, for the Punjaub to your young friends. There are several ploughs here, standing waiting for good, sturdy, loving, faithful hands to guide them. 'Come over and help us!' I am glad to hear you have taken up the poor female city Arabs. Pardon me for saying it–I think in some respects they are worse than the male ones. I am of opinion that, if there were no female Arabs, by and bye there would be no male Arabs. Get the females of a people put to rights, and the males will soon improve. There have been few good men who hadn't good mothers. If all this be true, you will naturally ask me, What about poor India, where woman is so degraded and unapproachable–what hope is there for her? Comparatively little, humanly speaking, I reply, so long as the women of India occupy their present condition. You have heard of female medical missions. I think they are likely, with the blessing of God, to help forward what zenana work has been effecting."