Chapter VI: From Calcutta to Kashmir

As the secretary of the Church Missionary Society was up country when Dr. Elmslie arrived in Calcutta, and none of the mission circle expected him so soon, he found no one awaiting him, and so for a time he went to a hotel. To his mother he writes:–"On Sunday we went to the Free Church Mission Church and heard a good Scotch sermon from the Rev. Mr. Don. After service I was introduced to Dr. Robson, who is Free Church Medical Missionary in Calcutta. Dr. and Mrs. Robson kindly asked us to spend the day at the Free Church Mission House, where we were introduced to the native Christian students, and to one who is not yet in Jesus, but who is groping his way to the Saviour out of heathen darkness. I accompanied Dr. Robson and two of the native Christian students to a small open meeting-house, situated in the native town. Here Dr. Robson read one or two chapters of the Holy Scriptures in Bengali to a crowd collected outside. Many listened with great attention as if pondering what they heard. After Dr. Robson had finished, one of the students addressed the assembly in Bengali on the words to which they had been listening. His address seemed earnest and eloquent. Questions were asked and objections raised, and, while the two students were busy in answering them, Dr. Robson was giving away religious tracts in English to those in the crowd who could read English. In the evening Dr. Robson took me to the Deistical Church, where thirty young men were gathered together. The services were begun by a hired musician, who played on a kind of native harp accompanying it with his voice. After this, one of the members read prayers, the congregation repeating them after him. Prayers ended, another of the company read what would correspond to a sermon, but which consisted of a description of the miseries of the pitiable sufferers in the recent cyclone, and a collection was made on their behalf. The members of this association are men thoroughly convinced of the absurdities of Hinduism, but to whom the pure and man-humbling doctrines of Christianity are unattractive and therefore rejected. Oh that the Lord would open their eyes that they may see!

"On Monday, the 31st, the Governor-General arrived in Calcutta, and Dr. F. came at once to see me, and I got a very cordial reception from him.

"_Journal, Nov. 2, 1864._–Visited the Medical College and the Sailors' Home with Dr. F.

"_Nov. 3._–Read in 1st Epistle of John (Greek); met several members of Church Missionary Society Committee, among whom was Colonel Bacon, who has been in Kashmir, and thus able to give me some information about the state of its people. My Lord, fit me for my work among them, I beseech thee!

_Nov. 6th._–To-day read Duff's Missionary Addresses. Oh for his enthusiasm as a missionary! I do love Thee, my Saviour, and think I am quite willing to take up my cross and follow Thee, if only thou fulfil Thy considerate and loving promise to be ever with me! Thou wilt fulfil it, dear Jesus! Went with Dr. Cleghorn to church. How my heart warmed when I saw him and Mrs. C.,–children of God from dear old Scotland. We spent the evening in reading God's Word and in prayer. It was a feast to my soul. Oh! that our gracious God may richly answer the prayers we then offered up for an outpouring of blessing on missions everywhere, and especially on the Medical Mission to Kashmir. Oh! that He may qualify me for the difficult work which lies before me, granting me heavenly wisdom!

"_Nov. 8th._–Read an interesting account of the analysis of some specimens of Cinchona Succirubra Bark, grown in Ootacamund. The result of the examination proves that this species of C. bark, cultivated in India, is far superior to the same species reared in South America. Six per cent. of alkaloid was obtained from it, of which three parts were quinine. Cultivation seems to have the desirable effect of increasing the percentage of quinine.

"_Nov. 8th._–Was present at the Missionary Conference, which is composed of all the Evangelical Missionaries in Calcutta. They meet monthly in each other's houses.

"Dr. F. thinks I ought soon to set off for Lahore, where I shall enjoy the advantage of a large hospital, with opportunities of performing surgical operations, and where I shall be near the scene of my future labours. This arrangement commends itself to me, therefore please send letters to Post Office, Lahore.... Dear mother, you are often in the thoughts and ever in the prayers of your loving son, WILLIAM."

Dr. Elmslie spent a fortnight of much enjoyment with Mr. Vaughan of the Church Missionary Society in Calcutta, and during this time visited all the important institutions of the city. He was much interested in the work carried on by Dr. Robson, then Medical Missionary in connection with the Free Church. Of a visit paid to one of Dr. Robson's patients, he writes thus:–"The young man was a student of the university. I asked if he had studied the Bible, but he confessed that for some time he had not given it serious consideration. He said he had found great difficulty in some portions of the New Testament. I asked him to specify one of those portions, and he immediately mentioned that passage where our Lord enumerates the marks of a disciple. I rashly hazarded an explanation, but it would have been wiser to have avowed its difficulty, as it was a subject I had not studied in its theological bearings. How much I have to learn! How much I need Heavenly wisdom! I meet many who are far better qualified than I for carrying on the glorious work of evangelisation. Nevertheless, I believe there is a niche for me, Father, even me! Thou knowest my heart, O Lord; and Thou knowest that I love Thee!

"_Nov. 18._–Punctually at 7 A.M., the Hon. Mr. Muir, Dr. F., and Dr. C. rode into the compound of the Church Mission House to bid me farewell, and Dr. F. and Dr. C. accompanied me to the railway station. We crossed the Howrah by ferry, and at 8 o'clock I was hurried away from those dear Christian men who, during all my stay in Calcutta, were ever doing me kindnesses." ... And their kindnesses accompanied him; for "It was arranged," writes Dr. Cleghorn, "at a little conference in the Church Mission House, consisting of the Rev. Mr. Stewart, Dr. Farquhar, Dr. Cleghorn, and Dr. Elmslie, that Dr. Elmslie should start yesterday, the 18th. The route was prepared, and special friends were advised of his expected arrival. A little company of us here have more than once commended Dr. Elmslie to God in united prayer. We partook together of the communion on Sabbath, and at the railway station we felt it to be a solemn duty to wish this new labourer 'God-speed,' and to pray for large success. We have suggested that Dr. Elmslie should remain for several months at Lahore to learn the language, see the system of instruction at the Medical College, and perhaps find a native agent to accompany him to Kashmir when the season opens."

On the way to Lahore, he ever after remembered most gratefully the kindness received from all his brother missionaries. His next letter to his mother is dated Amritsar, Dec. 20, 1864, and in it he recounts some, out of many, of the interesting events of the journey:–

"Since I last wrote to you, my time has been spent in travelling nearly fourteen hundred miles, receiving hearty welcomes from dear Christians at every halting-place, visiting schools, dispensaries, hospitals, and prisons. One of the most interesting sights I saw in Calcutta was the examination of the college instituted by Dr. Duff, and the distribution of prizes to the most deserving students by Sir John Lawrence. It is the first time that a governor-general of India has done the like in a missionary institution, and we may hope that it betokens a new and brighter era in the history of the land. I believe there are scholars from this institution in almost every corner of Northern India, and that they are noted for their learning, and for their Christian character.

"My first resting-place on the journey from Calcutta to Amritsar was at Benares, the Rome or Mecca of India. It is the stronghold of Hinduism, and the most bigoted city in India, so that you can believe I saw much to sadden me, much, too, to make me glad; for missionary operations are being carried on most vigorously. I must tell you an incident which happened when I was visiting one of the great temples there. As the crowds of worshippers entered the temple, I saw that every one was furnished with flowers, some in garlands, others in bouquets, which were meant as offerings to the god, or to make them fit to appear before it. The room into which we were conducted was dimly lighted. I could only just perceive a block of wood or stone, shaped in the form of the head of a fish. It stood on the ground, enclosed by a little fence of stone work, and near it stood a priest, who, on seeing me, stepped forward, and threw a garland of flowers round my neck before I was aware. Fancy me decked as if ready to worship this contemptible deity! He,–this sensual-looking priest, implored me for money, which, however, I did not give.

"At Allahabad I spent some very happy days in the house of the Hon. Mr. Muir. I was asked to conduct a prayer-meeting among the soldiers, which I consented to do, but with very mixed feelings. I do desire to commend Christ by word as well as by deed, but I am such a poor speaker. However, I do not think this a sufficient reason for refusing, when offered the opportunity of speaking for the Lord. With God's help, I shall try to speak more for Him than I have ever yet done. I spent some pleasant days at Delhi, Umballa, and Jullunder, where I had the privilege of meeting Sir Herbert Edwards, who was staying with my kind host Mr. Elliott. Sir Herbert is a great friend to the Kashmir Medical Mission, and spoke freely of his views as to our policy there. His opinion corresponds with that of Mr. Clark. From Jullunder I went to Loodiana, and, along with the American missionary, Mr. Woodside, visited the Rajah of Kapurthāla, who seemed anxious about the real good of his people.... With all my heart wishing you and dear Stewart a very happy New Year,–Your own loving son, WILLIE."

"_Amritsar Journal, Dec. 16, 1864._–Drove with Mr. W. to see the Mission School. On our way, ascended one of the very lofty minarets, from which we had a wonderfully extensive view of the city and its neighbourhood. The famous tank and splendid _Golden Temple_ of the Sikhs lay at our feet. We visited the temple, but, before entering, we were requested to change our shoes for cloth slippers, as the cow is considered a sacred animal with the Sikhs. The temple is situated in the midst of the famous tank of Amritsar, and is approached by a pier paved with most beautiful marble. It is one sheet of gold and mirrors within. A man wearing a large crimson turban was seated in front of an immense cushion, on which lay the Sikh Bible, or Granth. Around this man several other priests were seated, and near them there were three musicians, who continued to play in a strange monotonous style.

"The offerings brought and laid before the Granth by the poor worshippers were not very munificent, consisting chiefly of flowers, or rice, or paise. The chief priest uncovered the book, and read a portion of it, not much to our edification.

"There are two sects of Sikhs, the followers of Namak, who was, considering his opportunities, an enlightened man, and a lover of peace; and the followers of Govind, who held that the Sikh religion should be promoted by the sword. His sword is kept in a separate temple....

"We next visited the Mission School, where I examined three of the classes, and found them very well grounded indeed.

"_18th Dec._–Went to English Church, where Mr. Watkin preached from the words, "The Lord is at hand," an impressive sermon. Afterwards I enjoyed some sweet communion with God. In the evening Mr. and Mrs. C., Mr. R., and myself formed a little party for Bible reading, and had a very interesting conversation on Rom. iii.

"_21st._–Hard at work at Hindustani. Read paper on Kashmir, kindly lent me by Mr. Clark. O Lord, how much he and I need Thy Holy Spirit to be infused as a spirit of wisdom and of strong faith.

"_25th._–Partook of the Lord's Supper, and afresh dedicated myself to the Lord who died for me. Realised how unworthy I am, how imperfect my life is! O Lord, make Thine own child something like his Father; give me much more of the family likeness! Went in afternoon to native church, and heard Daud Singh, the native pastor, preach. The boys and girls from the orphanages formed the principal part of the congregation. The church is most suitably planned, so that heathen listeners may gather in the verandah, and hear the word of God.

"_26th._–Studied hard all forenoon. Aid me, Lord!

"Mr. C. received peremptory orders from Jummoo to remove all his furniture from the bungalow in Srinagar, in which he had deposited it on his departure from the valley. This is trying and perplexing. I would refer it all to Thee, O Lord; for the matter is Thine, not mine. I am lamentably ignorant, but Thou art omniscient. At present the horizon looks black and lowering, but affairs committed to God's care cannot but go well in the end. Read Hügel's Travels in Kashmir.

"_30th._–Went with Mr. C. and Mr. F. to have an interview with Sir E. Montgomery, who received us cordially, and made many inquiries respecting the various missions with which we are individually connected.... O Lord, make me a better servant and missionary! I mourn over my leanness: fill me with Thy Spirit, that I may bring forth fruit to Thy praise! Read Hügel.

"_Jan. 1st._–Had some delightful hours alone with God. Oh, for a closer walk with my God and Saviour!

"_3d._–Hindustani for three hours. Home letters at last. Dr. Burns Thomson's first Medical Missionary circular. May the Lord copiously bless it! Spent some hours in a native druggist's shop in the city, and learned a great deal about the medicines used by Hakims. While there, a funeral procession passed, followed by a number of women dressed in very coarse garments, and wailing bitterly. Am told their grief is not all genuine; some of them were paid mourners."

Dr. Elmslie reached Lahore on Jan. 18th, and wrote next day:–"_Lahore, 19th Jan. 1865._–At Lahore at last, and hoping to have some earnest hard work before it is time to go to Kashmir. We are likely to meet with many difficulties in our missionary operations, but the Lord is on our side, and He will turn the hearts of those high in power, so that the good news of His dear Son may be told to the inhabitants of that lovely land. I had a brief interview with Mr. M‛Leod, the lieutenant-governor, to-day, and also visited Mr. Cooper, who was for some time British resident in Srinagar. He said he would readily give me letters of introduction to the leading men in Kashmir, if I were merely going there as a physician, unconnected with a Christian mission.

"_Feb. 3d._–Have undertaken a class in Mr. Forman's school; got on pretty well, having studied carefully beforehand; first wrote out the lesson in Hindustani, and had it corrected by my Moonshee. The boys are so dirty. Dear mother, what would you think of them! yet they are often profusely decorated with ornaments of gold and silver.

"_14th._–Your troublesome cough back again! I can't tell you how sorry I am for that. I am delighted to hear of J. W.'s success: he must press on, and make 'Excelsior' his motto. And is it true that my little name-daughter has been taken away to swell the numbers of the lambs in the fold above? I remember a sweet verse of a hymn which you may like to send her mother–

"'Ere sin could blight, or sorrow fade,
Death came with friendly care;
The opening bud to heaven conveyed,
And bade it blossom there.'

"I shall write to her mother, whose kindness to me I can never forget.... I am labouring hard at the language, and have a teacher–a Moonshee–for two hours daily. I teach for two hours in the Mission School, and sometimes spend as much as three hours in the Government Hospital, which I visit daily, in order to become familiar with Indian complaints. I meant to spin you a long yarn about the country and the people, but must defer till my next.–Your ever loving son, WILLIAM."

"_Lahore, Feb. 28th._–So thankful, my dearest mother, that you feel better. Summer is coming, with its genial sunshine and bright blue skies, and all the gladness which nature in our dear Scotland can display, and you must go to the country and see it all. I should like you to go to Ballater, and see the beautiful everlasting mountains I love so much. Yes, you will go and write and tell me all about them. How I long to see hills. This country of India is just a dead level,–as smooth as the table of your best room. When journeying from Calcutta I saw some hills, though very diminutive ones; my heart was gladdened within me, they reminded me so much of Deeside. The other day I read a good criticism of Enoch Arden, one of Tennyson's poems, which I read to you on the banks of the Fench, near Banchory, when you and I visited that lovely spot. How I delight in recalling those bright days in our past. If it please God, dearest mother, I hope we shall again visit the 'Falls,' and again speak together of God's wonderful goodness to us both. I shall soon see higher mountains than you or I have ever yet beheld. The great Himalayas, in the midst of which lies cradled my future home, or perhaps I should say my field of work. I know you would like to read about it. The books which I find give one the most interesting information are, Jacquemont's Travels, Moorcroft's, and Vigne's ditto. If God spare me I purpose writing a book more comprehensive than any of them, as I shall have valuable opportunities for gathering information if spared to remain for a sufficient length of time in the valley.... Let me have much of your earnest prayers; I shall need them and expect them. By praying, dear mother, you will immeasurably help me, even more than if you were travelling with me over these strange lands. How the people of this dark land need the gospel, which alone can elevate and purify them! You can form no idea of their wickedness, but it corroborates the description given by St. Paul in Romans i. Much is being done for them, both by Government and by Missionaries, but so deep-seated is the evil, that you see as yet but little resulting from those efforts,–the evil seems to absorb the good just as a burning sandy waste absorbs the rain which falls on it. There are no fewer than 604 female schools in the Punjaub, but what are they among the millions? and if taught by heathen teachers, what result can we look for? You would laugh many a time, dear mother, at the significant looks and smiles of my little brown-faced charge at the Mission School, when I attempt to launch out, and make blunders in the language in so doing. I never mind, but hold on my way, for some direct mission work I _must_ do, however feebly. It is encouraging to me that those signals of my mistakes are becoming fewer and fewer. When I go to Kashmir I shall have a new language to learn, and it will be much more difficult to acquire, because there are no grammars nor dictionaries of Kashmiri. Those I must make for myself, and have already done something towards this work.

"I forgot to recommend to you a delightful book, written by that good doctor in Edinburgh, George Wilson; it is called 'Counsels of an Invalid.' Get it if you can.... My warmest love to you, dearest mother."

"_April 5, 1865._–So –– is after the loaves and fishes, is he? Tell him he will never cease to repent it if he draw back from the service of the Lord, to which he has devoted himself many times. I trust the Lord may show him that it is a glorious service, from which none should swerve. Poor R. B., his race has soon been run, but today he is reaping the inexpressible joy of being saved by Jesus. It is this assurance which makes life on earth bearable. It is the bright hope of this that has sustained me up to this time. It is very remarkable that every letter from home has told me of some well-known friend's death; this makes me anxious, but, as you say, we are each one in God's hands, and this thought should allay our fears, and calm the disturbed mind. 'I will never leave thee, nor forsake thee.' I feel sorry and astonished to hear that Mrs. –– is so proud. But, dear mother, we are all frail in some way. Oh, to be really like Jesus! in humility and in everything else in which it is possible for us to resemble Him. To strive after this is really our life-work.

"It was resolved at a harmonious meeting of the committee, which met on Friday, that I should start for Kashmir on April 11th, and travel by Rawal Pindee and Murree. A proposition was made that I should go along with the Bishop of Calcutta, who is to spend a month in the valley for the benefit of his health, but I was opposed to this plan, for this reason, that the natives look on him as a great public functionary, in short, as one of the highest in the Government; and I fear, if I were to accompany him, that the natives of Kashmir would consider me too a servant of Government, and so my mission would be frustrated. The committee agreed with me. My policy in Kashmir is to be one of peace.

"_Journal, April 20th._–Travelled from Lahore to Rawal Pindee in a Government gāri, a curious lumbering conveyance, drawn by the most wretched and stubborn of horses. From Rawal Pindee partly by hill-cart, and partly by mule. The hill-cart certainly excels the gāri in speed if not in comfort. It is something like an Irish car on two high wheels, and although the road to Murree is all more or less steep, the horses seemed almost to fly along the way. It is curious to find one's self mounting terrace after terrace of the steep mountain side, and to look down on the great landscape of the plains you have left. Rhododendrons, honeysuckle, clematis, geraniums, acacias on every side, mingling with the grand Alpine firs. Murree itself is a Swiss-like station, every house built in some cleft of the mountain side; from it you see the everlasting snows not very far off.

"_21st._–Left Murree with the Rev. Mr. Handcock of Peshawar. After ten miles ride reached Dawal about midnight.

"_22d._–From Dawal to Kohalla; a beautiful ride all down mountain side; passed through quantity of snow. Saw tiny yellow Potentilla Tormentilla, also the Pteris Quadrifolia, and Primula Vulgaris; very few birds to be seen among the pines which clothe those mountains through which we passed; the odour of the pines most charming. Half way to Kohalla saw the river Jhelum wending its way from Kashmir. Arriving at Kohalla, found the rest-bungalow preoccupied. Dined under a tree. Afterwards Qadir Bakhsh addressed the coolies and people from the village. One of the men was almost totally blind from cicatrices on the cornea; an artificial pupil would have done wonders for him.

"_April 24th._–After seeing most of our baggage off on coolies' backs we crossed the rapidly flowing Jhelum in a ferry-boat, the oarmen of which seemed wonderfully dexterous. In climbing the rugged road to Dhunna had many a fall, and arrived in a bruised and tired condition, but said that I should be glad to see any of the sick people in the village if they came after breakfast. It was now 11 A.M., and an hour after, a large company had assembled; some sixteen of whom became my patients."

In a communication to us, written as he passed up country, it came out on every page how much Dr. Elmslie magnified his office as a Medical Missionary. From the time he left England till now, when he enters Kashmir, he never let slip an opportunity of gathering or giving information about Medical Missions, and anything hopeful regarding their extension gladdened his heart. "When at Jullunder, on my way to Lahore, I met with the Rev. Mr. Woodside of the American Presbyterian Mission, whose sphere of labour is Kapurthala. You are perhaps aware that the Rajah of Kapurthala is favourably disposed to Christianity. He contributes very largely to missionary objects, and has built a handsome church entirely at his own expense. His Highness has also built a large and commodious house for a Medical Missionary. I trust a suitable agent will soon be appointed to this place. The sphere is an excellent one. As David (Young) is nearly finished, I have asked Mr. W. to write to him. At Allahabad I met the Rev. Mr. Williamson, Presbyterian Chaplain in one of Her Majesty's regiments, now serving in India. He belongs to the Established Church of Scotland. But there is little or nothing of the '_Isms_' in India. Love to the Saviour is the shibboleth. Mr. Williamson became so full of Medical Missions that he resolved to write to Dr. Norman M‛Leod about having a Medical Missionary sent to the Established Church Mission at Sealkote." When Dr. Elmslie returned to Scotland in 1870, he had the joy of meeting for an hour or so, in Edinburgh, a young Medical Missionary–Dr. Hutchison–just starting for Sealkote.