Chapter XV: Wayside Ministries and Work in Kashmir

The work of Dr. Elmslie since he came to India, has been detailed so fully, that a brief notice of this his fifth year's labours may suffice. In Amritsar the dispensary was opened in the cold season as usual, and upwards of six hundred patients were treated, surgically and medically. When it was closed, he again betook himself to Srinagar to toil amongst his much loved Kashmiris.

"_Srinagar, 7th May, 1869._–MY DEAREST MOTHER,–Just before departing from Lahore on the 14th April, I wrote a brief letter to you, telling you I was well and happy, and was to start for Kashmir for the fifth time. I am now, dearest mother, able to tell you that our heavenly Father has vouchsafed to me and the mission servants, a safe journey over those lofty mountains that raise their snow-covered heads so proudly up to heaven. Last year, or the year before, I gave you some particulars respecting this interesting route. You may remember that I mentioned that the road by which I have come to Kashmir this year, was the route followed by those splendid emperors who lived in Delhi as their capital, and ruled over nearly the whole of India. All along the route there are remains–ruins–of their serais or rest-houses, and right imperial those wayside inns must have been in the days of yore. But the glory hath departed, and the imagination has now to people them with emperors and their queens and their gorgeous retinues. You may remember too, that I told you formerly that we have to cross two mountain passes that lie in our way. The first one is called the Pass of the Ratan Pir, which is some seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, and is covered with the dark green pine and the beautiful rhododendron. The other pass is that of the Haji Pir, and is about seven thousand four hundred feet above the sea. This pass is neither so beautiful nor so easy to cross, for in ascending to it we had to make steps out of the snow that lay on its face. And then on reaching the ridge, mile upon mile of dazzling white snow lay before us. It is impossible to do justice to the view. It was one of surpassing grandeur, purifying and elevating the soul to that glorious and almighty God, who by the word of His power had called this beauty and grandeur into existence. One would think that the inhabitants of this lovely valley, and those grand lofty mountains would be purified, and have their devotional feelings raised to God their Creator. But sad to tell it is not so. The extensive, unsurpassed, and varied beauty and grandeur with which they are ever surrounded, falls upon them without effect, as if they had no more soul than the beasts that perish. If I remember rightly, I sent you a photograph of the snowy Haji Pir Pass. We reached Srinagar on the 30th April, having been a fortnight on the march, which, as has been my wont, I did on foot, walking every inch of the way. On the march, at each halting place, we gave notice that we should see all the sick who should come to us, and prescribe for them. This news soon brought us an interesting group of patients with their friends, some of them as usual coming from great distances. The Gospel of life and love was then preached to those perishing ones. Some listened wonderingly, others listened unbelievingly and unaffectedly. But the message of life through Jesus Christ, God's own dear and well-beloved Son, was preached, and the seed of the Word may have fallen into the rifts of some rocky hearts, and may at some future time spring up and come to fruit to the praise and glory of God. My work, dearest mother, is very much that of a sower. I may never see much of the fruit of my labours. Blessed be God, He has vouchsafed to let me see some,–some among my own countrymen, and some among the heathen. An officer in the army, and one who is related to the highest authorities in India, has come all the way to Kashmir to see me, because he regards me as his spiritual father. God blessed to his soul a discussion which I had with a gentleman, one night at dinner, two years ago. What a glory it is to receive from God, to be the means, in the hands of the Holy Spirit, of leading a sin-laden soul to Jesus, the Divine burden-bearer. I tell you these things, dearest mother, to cheer and comfort you. After considerable delay and trouble, I got my dispensary into working order, and began operations yesterday. You will be happy to learn that the attendance yesterday was larger than it ever was before, on the first day of the season.–Your own loving, and dutiful son, WILLIE."

"_Journal, 6th May._–To-day opened dispensary. I, and Qadir Bakhsh, and the two dressers met in the dispensary, and all kneeling down, implored the blessing of that God whose servants we are. I felt much affected, and had my heart greatly drawn out in prayer. I felt my joy and faith increased. After thus placing ourselves and the work in God's hands, we went to the tent pitched on the lawn behind the mission bungalow, and there were found sixteen patients with their friends assembled. Part of the Sermon on the Mount was read to the suffering and interesting little group, who were seated on the velvety grass; and briefly, simply, and practically explained to them. The quiet and the attention of the little company were marked. After the short address, a brief prayer was offered up for the Divine blessing, and this ended the religious exercises. The medical and surgical part of the proceedings then began. One of the patients present was the brother of the chief judge of the valley.

"_10th May._–A large turn out of patients to-day. Began an hour earlier. Snow rapidly melting on the mountains. Have bread as good as English every day. Had greens to-day to dinner. No potatoes, because too dear. Air fragrant with the odour of the Iris. The Iris is generally found covering the graves of the Mussulmans–three kinds, the white, the purple, the yellow. I am greatly cheered by the remarkably unusual spirit of inquiry that prevails among the people, both Hindoos and Mussulmans. All day long some one is present, with the catechist, hearing him read and expound the Gospel, or discussing with him on the subject of religion. Never before have I seen such readiness to converse on religious subjects as this. May the Lord bring many to a saving knowledge of the truth as it is in Jesus.

"_11th May._–A large turn out of patients. Numbers important, because more hear the Gospel. This afternoon there was a dense mist over the valley.

"_15th May._–Heavy rain this morning, and in consequence, a small number of patients present. At Kashmiri the most of the day. The change in the people for the better is most remarkable. God be praised.

"_16th May._–Heavy work this morning, from the large number of patients. Must take the women and the men on alternate days. The pundits are greatly at a loss to account for my annual visit to the valley. Other doctors, they say, came to Kashmir for one, or at most perhaps two years; they go away and are no more heard of, but the Daktar Sahib comes every year. This is wonderful. At worship in forenoon and evening, had my heart much drawn out in prayer.

"_17th May._–Astonished the people twice to-day, by quoting two of their own proverbs correctly, in their own language, and appositely. I must push on with my study of the Kashmiri proverbs."

The following particulars are from Dr. E.'s last report:–

"It is greatly to be deplored that the Medical Mission, notwithstanding its charitable and beneficent character, still unavoidably labours under great difficulties, from want of permanent and suitable hospital and dispensary buildings.

"The patients who frequent the Medical Mission Dispensary generally belong to the lower and middle classes. But last season, two of the higher officials of the valley, who had been ill for some time, and had spent considerable sums of money on their native hakims, but were nothing bettered, at last applied in their helplessness to the Medical Mission Dispensary, and, after taking appropriate remedies for a time, were both restored to perfect health, and as no fees are taken from dispensary patients, they are held perpetual debtors to the mission.

"From the 6th May, when the dispensary was opened, till the 25th of October, 169 receptions for the sick were held, and 3,902 patients received surgical and medical treatment. The average daily attendance of new patients was therefore twenty-three, and as the number of individual visits paid during the season was 15,579, the average daily attendance of old and new patients was ninety-three. Each patient, on an average, visited the dispensary four times.

"In the evangelistic branch of the mission's operations, much precious seed was sown. God grant that it may not remain fruitless. In no former season were demands for copies of the Holy Scriptures, and other religious books, so numerous and importunate. The works of the Rev. Moulvie Imad ud din, of the Amritsar Mission, were in especial request. Two Mullahs or Mussulman priests, who had heard of his well-known work, the 'Hidaiyat ul Musulmin,' came to the dispensary from a distant part of the surrounding mountains to obtain a copy.

"The Sunday afternoon meetings with the beggars and incurably blind and lame of Srinagar were held regularly, as in former seasons. Every Sunday afternoon at one o'clock, from sixty to eighty of those unfortunates assembled on the lawn behind the mission bungalow, or near to the mission tents.

"Several Kashmiris were, as far as man could see, in a hopeful religious state; but the character of the people, and the government of the valley being what it is, great caution must be exercised in forming a judgment from appearances for a short time. However, two male adults, of those who had been in the habit of frequenting the mission during the season, declared themselves Christians, and quitted the valley in the month of November to go to the Punjaub, as it is impossible, under present circumstances, for a native Christian to remain in Kashmir during the winter months.

"_Srinagar 28th June, 1869._–DEAR MRS. THOMSON,–Yours of the 1st April last reached me all safe, and received a hearty welcome. I hope the trip to Biarritz has completely established the doctor's health; but _soldiers_ must not think much about health, but go and do what their captain commands, leaving health, and life, and all things in God's hands. It is very cheering to hear of recruits coming to fill up the gaps which are ever being made in the ranks. When will this cry cease?–only when the native Christian Church takes firm root in those lands whither Christian Europe and America are sending agents. What a pity it is that many of those western recruits appear desirous of perpetuating the present needy and feeble state of the Church in the East. Would that the natives of India, China, Africa, and the islands of the sea, were strong enough to carry on their Christian war, unaided from without. It is pleasing to know that the native ranks are being filled up with men of the right stamp–men of courage, faith, and holy zeal. You have, doubtless, heard long ago of Dr. Gray's death in Rajpootana. How brief his career! Was not his death lonely!–lonely as to man–but Jesus and the angels may have been in greater force for its human loneliness. How inscrutable are God's dealings with His people! The cry is for men, and when the men come, many of them are called hence before they have well begun their great work. Gideon did with his handful of men better than he would have done with his thousands. So does God. What a privilege it is to be among the number of God's chosen ones–God's picked men. May we be humble and thankful.

"I am again busy at work in this fairest spot of God's earth. After a very pleasant journey from Amritsar, over the Himalayas, I arrived here on the 30th April last, and began work a few days after. On the march to the valley, we had some interesting work–partly medical, and partly evangelistic. The mission is becoming so well known in these mountainous regions, that the poor people look out for our return in spring, as they do for that of the swallow. The people's knowledge of Christ, and the plan of salvation, is yearly growing. I trust there is at least a leavening process going on in these mountains–a sowing of seed–precious seed–which, when the fulness of time is come, will bear much fruit. The mission in the valley is gaining more and more influence, and is being frequented by ever-increasing numbers of sick. I am thankful that our numbers are increasing, because the more bodily sick that come to us, the more spiritually sick hear of the Balm of Gilead and the Great Physician. During last month, the number of individual patients was well on to a thousand. I have just been writing my report of last year's work, and I see that our numbers increased to 1085 over what they had been in the previous most successful season as to numbers. What a battle of faith and patience I have had to fight here, dear Mrs. Thomson. But it is delightful to fight, and to be like to win. There are signs of softening in the opposition to the mission, I am happy and thankful to say, but I cannot speak definitely of them yet. You will be happy to hear of another Kashmiri being brought to Jesus. Lately I heard of an old woman–the mother-in-law of one of the native catechists who have accompanied me to the valley–having, on her return to her distant village, after a visit to the medical mission in Srinagar, declared herself a Christian, and after some months having fallen asleep in Jesus. This is the first Kashmiri woman I have heard of to whom the Word heard in the medical mission has been blessed. Her old son-in-law, Qadir Bakhsh, who yearns over his fellow-countrymen, and longs and prays for their salvation unceasingly, is greatly delighted that his dear relative died in the faith of Jesus. I am writing this letter to you under a tent, on the shores of a beautiful lake, near the city of Srinagar. What is the reason of this, you will say. Well, I will tell you. Twenty days ago it began to rain very heavily in the valley, and this continued for twenty-six hours. The consequence was that the river–I believe the ancient Hydaspes–rose high, and overflowed its banks, and inundated the surrounding country. The Europeans, occupying the married quarters in the station here, were obliged to quit their bungalows, and seek for safety in their boats on the evening after the rain began to fall. As the medical mission bungalow was situated on a higher level, by dint of great exertions I was able, with assistance, to repel the advancing waters till the morning of the third day of the flood; but on they steadily came, and at last the embankment we had made gave way, and in rushed the waters like a flood. In a very short time my out-houses were washed away, and I and my servants had enough to do to get to a boat with a few necessary things. I am glad to say my house stood the angry assaults of the water, and at some risk we rescued all the mission property from it. The river rose fourteen feet above its ordinary level. The valley, as far as you could see, was one extensive lake, with its surface diversified with beautiful clumps of leafy trees. The sight was one long to be remembered for its great beauty. The loss sustained by the Maharajah and the cultivators of the soil, must be very considerable, as the first crop of the year was about mature when the rain came. The mission bungalow was greatly damaged by the water, but it has been repaired, and I hope to be able to return to it in a few days now. I have been carrying on my work here as well as I can under present adverse circumstances. I hope this calamity may turn out for the furtherance of the gospel in Kashmir.

"As to my coming home, it is still uncertain when I shall leave India. If it were not to see my dear mother, whose health has been very feeble for some months, I don't think I should take advantage of the opportunity which I shall have at the end of the year of visiting home, for I am becoming more and more interested in my work and the people, amongst whom God has seen fit to cast my lot. However, if I do come home, to see you and the doctor, and to tell each other how great things the Lord hath done for our souls, will not be the least of our pleasures."

The very day Dr. Elmslie penned these lines in Srinagar his mother, over and above her usual ailments, was seized with congestion of the lungs, which, acting on an enfeebled system, carried her in a few days to her grave.

As Mrs. Elmslie fills a prominent place in this Memoir, it would be unseemly to let her pass away without a parting word. Her influence over her son for good was unquestionably very great, and he loved and cherished her with the most intense affection. For such a mother it would have rejoiced us to record an "_abundant_ entrance." But that pleasure is denied us. Continued bodily infirmity seems to have weakened her naturally strong intellect, and she inclined latterly to brood over her absent sons, rather than cultivate communion with a present Saviour, and this was not favourable to the life of God in her soul. Still, when she approached her end, there seemed a measure of sunshine on her path. The medical attendant said to her, "I am sure no message you can leave behind you for your sons will be so acceptable as the assurance that you die with a strong hope of a blessed resurrection, and that all is well with your soul." She replied, "Not a _strong_ hope, but with _a_ hope," and then she went on to quote several very appropriate promises out of the Word of God.

In due course the news of her death reached Dr. Elmslie, and, writing to his friend, Mr. Rodgers, he says (17th August 1869):–"You see, my dear Rodgers, that I am become one of the mourners. My best and dearest friend on earth is dead–my mother. You can more easily picture to yourself my intense grief than I can describe it to you. Since Sabbath last, I scarcely know what I have been about. I have been doing my work, but I have had no mind for it. I was looking forward with great pleasure to my going home to see my dear mother, and to gladden her aged heart with the sunshine of my presence and love. But God had different things in store for her and me." Poor Elmslie had not leisure to brood over his distresses, for at this very time the surgeon of the station took it into his head to run away from Srinagar, alleging, as his reason "for deserting his post, the unhealthiness of the station! This is extremely rich!" writes Dr. Elmslie. "Doctors, I thought, were specially for such places! The result of the doctor's cowardly desertion has been to increase my work very considerably, and that, too, much against my will."

Dr. Elmslie had for some time been giving his spare moments to a little work, about which he thus writes to the Rev. E. C. Stuart:–

"_Srinagar, 24th September 1869._–MY DEAR FRIEND,–As I promised in my last letter to you, I despatched by post two days ago a translation in Kashmiri of Mr. Justice Campbell's list of words and phrases for testing the radical affinities of languages. Will you kindly look over it, and if you think it of any value, will you send it to the editor of the Asiatic Society's _Journal_. I have purposely made my translation full on one or two points–fuller, perhaps, than some may think necessary. Still, that is an error on the safe side. For example, I have given, under the head of phrases, several translations–some verbal translations–of the English with the Kashmiri government, and others where the English meaning is expressed according to the _idiom_, as well as the mere rules of Kashmiri grammar. I hope the little paper will be of some interest. Of this I am very sure, without any boasting, that it is the most correct thing that has been written on the language of this interesting people. The mistakes that have been made by those who have written on Kashmiri–and two or three persons have done so–are very amusing. One gentleman, for example, has confounded the verb 'to be' with the termination of the plural. He evidently did not see that his teacher gave him the verb 'to be' with the declension of the noun, to point out its, the noun's, gender and number. But enough on this head."