Chapter VIII: Work in Kashmir

"On the 12th April," writes Dr. Elmslie, "I left Lahore for Kashmir, the future scene of my medical missionary labours.... Through the kindness of the Rev. R. Clark of Amritsar, two of the most promising of the boys belonging to the Missionary Orphanage are to accompany me as assistants. The Rev. Messrs. Forman and Newton of Lahore have very obligingly transferred to K. M. M. for the season, one of their catechists. He is a Kashmiri by birth, and, on that very account, suitable for the work in which we are to be engaged. He is able to speak fluently the language of the valley, and is intimately acquainted with the habits and character of the people. (_See Woodcut._)

"_24th April._–To-day we crossed the Jhelum, and entered the territories of the Maharajah of Kashmir and Jummoo, and made our way to Dhanna, our halting-place for the day, by a very rough path. From what had befallen the Rev. Messrs. Smith and Clark on previous years here, I fully expected my difficulties to begin. But in this I was most agreeably disappointed, for I found the Maharajah's servants both civil and obliging. On my arrival, I had intimated to the principal man of the village that as I was a doctor, I would be happy to see and treat all the sick people, whom he might bring to me after breakfast, from Dhanna and its neighbourhood. In a very short time, sixteen patients were collected outside the rude and dirty bungalow where we were lodging. After breakfast, Qadir Bakhsh, the catechist, having congregated the sick, and the coolies who had carried our baggage from Kohalla, read to them a suitable portion of Scripture, and addressed them from it in a plain, easy, and intelligible style, quite level to the capacities of these ignorant people. The little group listened to the words of divine truth with great interest and attention. The service was closed with prayer. Our small supply of medicines and instruments having been laid out, the sick were brought out one by one and examined. One case, of a very trifling nature in itself, is worthy of a passing notice, because the relief afforded by surgery was immediate, and duly appreciated. The case was one of excessive elongation of the uvula, which caused a most troublesome cough, and compelled the man every now and then to perform the act of swallowing. The lengthened member was shortened with ease, the cough ceased, and the act of deglutition became less frequent. The patient took his leave with many expressions of gratitude.

"_25th April._–This morning early we packed up, and set out for Maira, the next resting-place. We had no difficulty with coolies, although the number required was considerable. About 9 A.M. we reached our destination, and resolved to breakfast in Maira, and then to push on to the next village. Qadir, the catechist, somewhat hastily proceeded to address a small group of natives whom he happened to find congregated together. He had not proceeded far in his remarks, when the Tekeedar of the village told him he must stop immediately, which Qadir had the good sense to do. I am fully persuaded that if the people and the Maharajah's servants had been aware that the sahib was a doctor, and would give them both advice and medicine gratuitously, we should have had no veto put upon our evangelistic work. I learned a lesson by this incident by which I intend to profit. After breakfast we had a small reception of patients, when words about the love of God in Jesus were spoken to the patients individually, and those who were able to read got religious tracts and copies of the Gospels. The moonshee of the place told us he had learned to read and write in a neighbouring school, where he said there were as many as two hundred scholars. This high number of pupils is scarcely credible. At 5 P.M. we arrived at Chekar, somewhat fatigued with the two marches of the day. The first thing I did was to summon the chief man of the village, and to tell him how many coolies I should require next morning,–generally about forty,–and collect all the sick of the place and vicinity in the compound of the rude bungalow next morning.

"_26th April._–To-day, after seeing twelve sick persons, we departed for Hatti, which is the next resting-place on the way. Arrived late in the evening.

"_27th April._–On getting up this morning, and going outside my tent, I found a number of sick persons sitting on the ground, affected with various maladies. Before giving advice or medicine, Qadir, according to custom, addressed them from a part of God's Word. The attention was marked, and every now and then one here and another there in the interesting company would exclaim, 'Durust,' 'Sach bal.' May God, by His quickening Spirit, vitalise the seed sown for His own glory's sake. Arrived very late at Chikote, but in time to see the Tekeedar, and to give him the usual orders about coolies and the sick.

"_28th April._–At the usual reception of patients to-day, one old man, labouring under an affection of the stomach, presented us with a quantity of walnuts,–a present of no great value, but nevertheless indicative of grateful feelings towards the doctor.

"_29th April._–Left Chikote this morning about 5 A.M. On the way met a man who inquired very particularly if I was the doctor, as he had heard there was one coming, and he very much wanted to consult him about his little son. The boy happened to be affected with a well-known cutaneous disease, for which I strongly recommended soap and water. From what I have already seen of the people of Kashmir, poverty and dirt are the two great enemies I shall have to contend with as a doctor amongst them. On arriving at Uri, pitched my tent under some apricot trees near to a shady chinar. We soon had a visit from Juliar Khan, the Namah of the district of Uri. He came to consult me about his eyes, and another disease of which he had been ill for a long time. Advice and medicine were given him. The Tekeedar of Uri having also presented himself as a patient, received appropriate remedies, and was requested to give intimation of our readiness to see the sick of the village and neighbourhood.

"_30th April, Uri, Sunday._–Got up very early this morning, and on going outside the tent found a large company assembled under the surrounding apricot trees. We soon had the small deal table and chair with the medicines and instruments placed in a convenient spot, and the sick and their friends were arranged all round. Everything being ready, Qadir, the catechist, read the third chapter of John's Gospel, and showed the necessity and nature of the new birth. The people as usual were most attentive, and listened with manifest pleasure to many of Qadir's remarks. After prayer, the sick were examined and treated as well as our present circumstances would permit. Among the fifty sick persons, who consisted of men, women, and children, there was an old Mullah, or Mussulman Priest, who, on being asked if he possessed a copy of the Koran, replied in the negative. I said, I suppose if you had the Koran you could read it. 'Oh, no,' he said, 'I not able to read at all.' I could not help saying to the old man, whose hair was like snow, and whom in my heart of hearts I pitied, How can you be a Mullah if you are totally unable to read? I received no reply. It was not a little amusing to watch the countenances of the listeners, who first smiled, then looked at each other, nodded, laughed, and then exclaimed, 'Bas,'–enough. Such priest, such people. I have already been struck with the fewness of those who are able to read. How are these poor people, who are dying for lack of the knowledge of the Saviour, to be fitted to read His Holy Word? Juliar Khan, our friend of yesterday, came to pay his respects and to say that he felt better from the remedies which were given him. After breakfast we assembled for family worship, and seeing Juliar Khan with a few of his followers sitting under an adjacent chinar, I sent him my salam, to say I should be most happy if he would join us in the worship of God. No sooner did he receive the message than he rose and came to us, accompanied by nearly all his retainers. I read the fourth chapter of John's Gospel, to which he paid the greatest attention; after which, Qadir concluded the services with prayer. We then had some little conversation on the Koran and the Gospel, but not being very communicative, he soon took his departure, again expressing his gratitude for the advice and medicine which he had received the day before. Lord, fructify the seed sown for Thine own glory's sake. The Maharajah's officials very civil and obliging.

"_1st May._–Road still lies along the Jhelum, and is beautifully wooded. Among the trees I passed I recognised the peach, fig, and fir, and, twining amongst these, the vine. The beautiful red flower of the pomegranate delights one's eye at every turn, and the rose trees are budding into beauty. Passed a lime-kiln at work to-day, and behind a large ledge of rock I came upon a Fakir: There he sat with his back to the road, covered with rags, thereby meaning to show his indifference to this world. Poor fellow! he has discovered part of the truth,–that this fleeting world cannot satisfy, but he does not know the way whereby alone his soul can find satisfaction and be made perfectly happy the while, enjoying the present world according to the mind of God, who has filled the earth with so much that is lovely and loveable. Came to a dilapidated Hindu temple. A flight of steps led up to a large gateway. In the centre of the inner court saw the shrine, which was also approached by a flight of steps. The stones are of immense size and granitic. The priest forbade me to enter, so I stood at the door, and heard the monotonous voice of the man who was performing service. He concluded by blowing into a large univalve shell, producing a sound exactly like that of a trumpet. I was reminded of Elijah and the false prophet on Carmel.

"_May 2d._–The scenery becomes more and more lovely as you near Baramula; the Jhelum, which you have known hitherto as a boisterous rapidly flowing river, is here gentle and placid. Poplar and willow trees abound, and the very mountains are richly wooded, reminding one of the Trossachs near Loch Lomond. The system of irrigation carried on here seems to be first rate. Before reaching Baramula a steep hill has to be climbed; it bears marks of the work of water; the different strata of sandstone of which it is composed vary in degrees of coarseness, and there are many water-polished pebbles to be seen. As you reach the summit, suddenly the far-famed valley of Kashmir bursts upon your view. I thought of Moses at Pisgah getting his view of the promised land. There lay the valley, bathed in sunshine,–the full-bosomed and now gently-flowing Jhelum meandering through its midst, and its lofty guardians, the snow-capped Himalayas, towering around. I gazed long on this wonderful scene, and with David praised the Lord for the excellent beauty of His works. I earnestly prayed that His rich and effectual blessing might rest on the work I was about to begin.

"_3rd May._–Reached Nowshera at 11 A.M., and after bathing, proceeded to treat the sick who had been collected by the Moonshee, who informed me he was the only adult in the village who could read, and that he had opened a school and had at present six scholars. I gave him a copy of the New Testament in Hindu, and promised to give him a present on my return to Nowshera if he should satisfy me he had carefully read and studied the book. How very important it is to influence for good those who are, like this young man, the only channels of learning to the people. As usual the coolies and sick having been placed near each other, Qadir proceeded to address them, after which the coolies received their pay and were allowed to depart. Thirty-six were then seen and treated.

"_4th May._–To-day we sailed in sight of Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. When about three miles from the city we halted to breakfast. While seated at my morning meal I observed two women pass me carrying baskets on their heads full of provisions for the market. Shortly after they had passed, my attention was arrested by cries in the direction in which they had gone, and on looking round, observed two men busy rifling the women's baskets. I took these men for servants of the Maharajah's, but discovered afterwards that they were not. On landing in Srinagar my first business was to find a house suitable for my work. To be so, it must be situated near the city. I learned that the bungalows belonging to the Maharajah, and which he assigns to the Europeans visiting the valley, were either already occupied or reserved, at least those nearest the city. I had to go elsewhere therefore, and was very fortunate in getting part of a bungalow quite close to the uppermost bridge of the city. For the scanty and rude accommodation I had to pay twenty rupees a month, an exorbitant rent in Kashmir. The accommodation consisted of one large room, which served for drawing-room, dining-room, sitting-room, bed-room, &c., three verandahs, and four very small closets situated round it. Down stairs there was a large verandah. Being anxious to have a proper bargain made about the house, I sent for the owner's agent, and desired him to sign an agreement, which one of my assistants had drawn out. I was afraid that should I not have a sure bargain made the proprietor of the house might raise some objections when he should see the work which I intended carrying on. The man told me that no agreement of this kind could be made in Kashmir without the presence and consent of the Maharajah's Baboo. I need scarcely say I felt very anxious about the result of his being present. He was, nevertheless, sent for and came. When all was amicably and satisfactorily arranged, as I thought, the Baboo said to me that I should require to state in the written agreement that I was prepared to quit the bungalow on the 15th of October next. Seeing that it would be worse than useless to make any objection, I took my pen and wrote as he desired, feeling greatly ashamed that I belonged to the country of which Kashmir is a tributary. It is most devoutly to be wished that the policy of our country towards such states as Kashmir were more becoming a great and Christian nation like Great Britain. How contemptible and inconsistent as a nation we must appear to such a people as the Kashmiris.

"_9th May._–To-day is memorable in the history of the Kashmir Medical Mission, from the fact that I opened my dispensary this morning. I had given notice that I intended receiving patients from this date. The verandah on the southern aspect of the house was prepared for the sick people to meet in. Punctually at seven o'clock A.M., I, Qadir, the catechist, and my two native assistants went into the verandah, after supplicating together the blessing of God on the work which we were about to initiate in Srinagar. Qadir read the opening verses of the fifth chapter of the Gospel of Matthew, and made a running and suitable commentary on the passage. The service was closed with a brief prayer for the divine blessing. I now retired to the small verandah on the east side of the house, which I had had fitted up–very rudely, I must confess–as a dispensary. Here the patients were seen one by one. The number present to-day was ten. In the course of the day the Baboo called to see me. During his visit he told me that some Padre Sahib had been preaching in the Bázár, and that the Diwan had commanded him (the Baboo) to inform the gentleman, whoever he might be, that he was not to repeat his Bázár preaching. I ascertained afterwards that the Rev. W. Handcock was the clergyman referred to.

"_10th._–Received a note from the Rev. W. Handcock to say that as he had been prohibited by the Diwan's order from preaching any more in the bazaar, and as his servants found it impossible to obtain supplies of food, he had resolved to quit Srinagar on the 12th inst. 'If they persecute you in one city, flee into another.' With Mr Handcock's fate before me, it would be most unwise on my part to permit my catechist to preach in the bazaar. It appears to be the best course in the circumstances, however desirable it may be that it were otherwise, to be content with the day of small things in Kashmir, and to wait patiently and prayerfully for a brighter day to dawn on this most unhappy country. After the morning reception of patients, I, accompanied by Qadir, visited two of the bazaars of the city, not for the purpose of preaching, but to know the people and to spread the news of our dispensary. Began to read English with my native assistants.

"_13th May._–Began my Saturday itinerations to-day. We hired a boat and sailed in the direction of the Takht-i-Suliman, and landed at a small village, where we had a meeting of the villagers, among whom four applied for medicine. The name of the village is Gagribal. I purpose to devote the Saturday afternoons to these short itinerations to the neighbouring villages, that the people may hear the gospel in their own tongue, and know of the Medical Missionary Dispensary in Srinagar.

"_16th May._–The number of patients thirty, the majority of whom were sepoys. I begin to suspect that this is the result of some plan or other to prevent the Kashmiris from coming to our dispensary. We shall see. The devil is doubtless busy. The Bishop of Calcutta, accompanied by his private physician, arrived at a little past seven to see our operations. He heard the greater part of the address which Qadir was delivering when he entered. The passage of Scripture being commented on was Our Lord's Prayer. His lordship adjourned to the surgery after prayer, and remained till he had seen a number of the sick examined and treated. Received a note in the course of the day from Colonel Gardner, requesting medical advice for one of his children.

"_17th May._–Began tract distribution to-day in the Bazaar. The people received them gladly. I make it a point not to give away any books unless the receiver can read them. The people are very friendly indeed.

"_18th May._–The number of patients this morning was forty. Excised a cystic tumour from a young man. Having explained the object and effects of chloroform, I asked him if he wished me to give it to him. After some slight hesitation he consented. In all probability this is the first time a native Kashmiri has been anæsthetised in the valley with chloroform.

"_19th May._–The Lord Bishop of Calcutta paid the Dispensary a second visit this morning, along with his private chaplain, the Rev. Mr. Harley. Paid my first domiciliary visit to-day to see the young man from whom I had excised the cystic tumour yesterday. Was gladly received.

"_20th May._–After this morning's reception we hired a boat, and set out for a pretty large village called Hazrat Bal, which is situated on the shores of the large lake near to Srinagar. We took a supply of medicines and tracts with us. On landing at the place, a shady tree was selected, near to the Musjid, and there my chair and the medicines were placed. While Qadir, the catechist, was giving information of our arrival and objects, I went to see the neighbouring Mussulman temple. There I saw the principal Mullah or priest with a few of his subordinates. We had some conversation together, after which I left them, thinking that by this time Qadir would have collected the people. On leaving the Musjid and its priests, I found Qadir standing under a shady walnut tree addressing a numerous company of hale and sick folks, who were quietly seated on the ground round him, listening most attentively to his words. The Mullahs, as soon as they heard what Qadir was speaking about to the people, rushed amongst them, shouting out that they were to go away immediately. Their efforts were successful. All left us except one poor woman, who appeared to be imbecile. She would not move. One priest applied very liberally a rope, which he carried in his hand, to those whose movements were slower than he thought they should be. It was a sad scene, and the only antidote I could think of for my feelings of indignation was prayer to that God who was looking on and seeing all that was taking place against His blessed gospel. Qadir, the two native assistants, and myself, all knelt down under that same shady walnut, and prayed God to forgive these enemies of His truth and change their hearts. Only three sick persons availed themselves of the opportunity presented to them of obtaining advice and medicine. We got into our boat and made for home, much depressed by what had happened.

"_24th May._–Mr. Jenkins, the British Resident, called on me to-day, and in course of conversation expressly told me I was not to ask or expect any support from him, in his official capacity, in my medical missionary operations.

"_25th May._–No fewer than eight women were present amongst the patients this morning. The number of female patients is gradually increasing. Had two surgical operations to-day, for which chloroform was administered. No objection was made to its being exhibited, either by the patients or their friends, who were present at the operations. Indeed the natives are taking most kindly to this invaluable auxiliary to surgery. Was informed by a friend that the priests of Hazrat Bal had complained to the Diwan about my catechist, accusing him of having said all sorts of untrue and unseemly things respecting them. These charges are entirely false, and are made with the view of having a stop put to our Medical Missionary itinerations. The Lord thwart their purposes.

"_26th May._–The young man from whom I extirpated the cystic tumour, called to-day to show himself. He presented me with two rupees as a token of his gratitude. I merely touched them and returned them. The poor fellow seemed at a loss to find words to say how grateful he felt towards us.

"_27th May._–Thirty-four patients this morning. The subject of the address, The Fall of man and his redemption by Jesus Christ, God's Son. In the course of the day, the Rev. Mr. Cowie called, in company with one of the Maharajah's servants, for the purpose of hearing what I had to say of the Hazrat Bal transaction. It appears from what is told me that a very black account of my doings had been given by the Mullahs to the Diwan–that my catechist had called His Highness, the Maharajah, anything but good, and had uttered every sort of abuse to the Mussulman priests–abuse too bad to be even mentioned. Having been present myself, I am able to say that the kind old man did not make one unfavourable allusion to the prince of these realms. Indeed, I have given strict orders that whatever we of the medical mission may either see or hear with respect to the government of this country, we are not to speak about the matter in our dealings with the natives. Of all things in Kashmir, truth is the scarcest, so that one has to be continually on his guard as to what he believes. In Kashmir, I only believe what I see, and sometimes hardly that. The Diwan's messenger, having heard my version of the affair, took his departure.

"_29th May._–The Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Yeates of Moultan, and Captain Lewin of Amritsar, came to see our operations. To-day the bishop returned the Visitor's Book, in which he expresses himself as much pleased with what he had seen of my work.

"_30th May._–The number of patients present this morning fifty-three, of whom seventeen were women. The subject of address, the Vision of Dry Bones. The attention of the people great. At 11 A.M., called on Mr. Jenkins, the British Resident, according to request, regarding the Hazrat Bal transaction. He informed me of the nature of the charge the fifteen mullahs of Hazrat Bal had brought against my catechist, of which mention has already been made in a previous entry. Mr. Jenkins then requested me to promise I should give up these Saturday itinerations, which I refused to do, as I knew for certain that the charges brought against Qadir were a fabrication from beginning to end. I promised this much, I should not pay a second visit to Hazrat Bal during the season. I also stated I was most ready to give due consideration to any official document coming from the heads of the native Government prohibiting me from itinerating. How humiliating and inexplicable it is, that states tributary to India should be allowed to do that which, if the Sultan of Turkey were to attempt, would be sure to call forth a sharp remonstrance from the Secretary for Foreign Affairs at home.

"_31st May._–Opened my small hospital to-day. It accommodates from four to five patients. The verandah, in which the patients used to assemble to hear the address, has been fitted up for this purpose, while the long verandah downstairs is in future to be our meeting-room, being much larger than the one above. Vaccinated the two children of the Brahmin at the head of financial matters in Kashmir.

"_3d June._–To-day, went with Qadir into the city, and spoke to a good many maimed persons and others whom we met in our peregrinations. The people listened very attentively and politely to us. Gave away a good many tracts and larger treatises on religious subjects.

"_6th June._–Whilst distributing tracts, and speaking to the people in the bazaar, was requested by a goldsmith to go and see his wife, who, he said, had become totally blind. Went with the man to his house, and was permitted to enter with him. His wife turned out to have double cataract. The case is in every respect fit for operating on.

"_8th June._–The number of patients present this morning was sixty-three, seventeen of whom were women. As usual, the people were very attentive to the portion of Scripture which I read. With the aid of chloroform, removed another tumour in the forenoon. Have great reason for heartfelt thankfulness to God, inasmuch as hitherto nothing untoward has happened with respect to my medical work.

"_14th June._–To-day, eighty-three patients were present, and of that number thirty-nine were women. The greatest quietness prevails during the religious services.

"_15th June._–With the aid of chloroform, removed a large staphyloma. The people are becoming acquainted with the fact there is a medicine that takes away pain by making them sleep, and readily take it when it is required. Heard to-day that orders had been issued by the heads of the native Government that no sepoy is to come to me for advice and medicine.

"_17th June._–A poor coolie, who had been accidentally shot in the thigh, died this morning in hospital. His relatives would not grant a _post mortem_ examination. It is impossible for medicine to make much progress in India as long as it continues to be so difficult to obtain specimens of morbid anatomy.

"_19th June._–Assisted by the Rev. Mr. Yeates, performed resection of the wrist-joint. The patient was a young woman. Her parents were present during the operation.

"_23d June._–One of the principal pundits of the city sent his boat for me to come in to see him, as he was very ill. Accompanied by Qadir, I went, and found the old man sitting in a summer-house, propped up on his bed, and surrounded by his male relatives. There was no female friend near him. I examined the old man, and prescribed for him accordingly. Whilst so engaged, Qadir was busy talking with some of the relations about Christ and the gospel. We gave copies of the separate Gospels to four of those men. How very different a Christian sick-chamber would have been from this one.

"_29th June._–To-day, laid up with fever. Obliged to send away the patients who had assembled.

"_2d July._–To-day, the collection for the Kashmir Medical Mission was made at the station church; the Rev. W. G. Cowie, M.A., chaplain, preached.

"_11th July._–I still feel so weak, that I have deemed it necessary to have a change, and set out to-day for the south-east of the valley, intending to go as far as Islamabad. I purpose to go by slow stages, and to halt at the villages and towns on my way, and distribute tracts and medicines. Qadir, my two assistants, and servant accompany me. We take along with us a large supply of medicines, tracts, and gospels. Having asked God to bless us and our journey, we took our leave of Srinagar, intending to make Pampur our first resting-place. We reached Pampur about 6 P.M., and immediately pitched the tent amongst a clump of willows on the river's bank. We had not been long encamped before a little company gathered round us, and we had some interesting conversation. Qadir was the chief speaker. Pampur is a town of some importance, situated on the right hank of the river Jhelum. It is said to contain 300 houses, and 2000 inhabitants. It is celebrated for the saffron-fields adjoining it, and carries on a small trade in shawls.

"_12th July._–To-day, we had two receptions for the sick, at which forty-five patients were seen, and received advice and medicines, after the usual religious services. Those who were able to read received books also. The people most civil and obliging. The governor of the place happened to have been a patient of mine in Srinagar, but as he had to leave Pampur for the capital on business, he kindly sent a servant of his to wait upon me, and assist in every way. Qadir and I, between the two receptions, went into the town, where we gave away tracts and copies of the Gospels. We had some quiet friendly discussion with one of the mullahs belonging to the musjid. In the evening, six Hindu pundits came to see us, and Qadir, who can speak about nothing but Jesus and His love, had a most animated discussion with one of them, which was carried on in the most friendly way.

"_13th July._–To-day, had another reception, at which a large number of sick folks attended. Treated fifty-eight new patients. At 12 o'clock noon, entered our boats, and sailed up the river towards our next halting-place.

_14th July._–"Went with Qadir Bakhsh, to examine the ruins of the temple of Avantipura, which is said to have been built to the honour of Siva in the eighth century. The stones, or rather blocks, of blue limestone, of which this grand structure was formed, lie heaped one on another, but in such a state of preservation, that one is inclined to believe that its present state of ruin has been caused by earthquake, and not by the dilapidating hand of man or time. The Rev. Mr. Cowie has collected a large sum of money for the purpose of excavating some portion of the buried ruins; and one whole side of the square of the colonnade which surrounded the shrine is now laid bare. The remains of the splendid pillars are worthy of Athens or Rome; large blocks of carved stone lie between them, and towards the north side there are the remains of an arched gateway, through which must have been the entrance to the inner temple. It stands almost entire. The ground-plan is about fifty-four feet square, and the height is supposed to have been sixty-eight feet. On two buttresses, at either side of the interior, are traces of carved idols. Avantipura was once the capital of Kashmir.

"_18th July._–I forgot to mention that, through the kindness of Drs. Brown and Dallas of Lahore, a native doctor had been sent to help me from the Punjaub. He arrived in Srinagar a day or two before our departure. On arriving at Islamabad, we had encamped on the left bank of the river, which was the only convenient camping-ground near the city. We are awkwardly situated for the sick, as the river lay between us and the city. In consequence of this drawback to our position, we had to cross the river daily; and, as there was a large grove quite close to the city, we met there for worship and the reception of the sick. The number of patients present to-day was (?). Qadir addressed the group, and was patiently and quietly listened to. Islamabad lies on low ground near the river, which is here a comparatively small stream. The surrounding country is well wooded, and finely cultivated. Behind the town is a long lacustrine promontory, stretching back for several miles, and on this platform, at its upper end, is built the ancient temple of Martand. It is by far the most perfect ruin of its class in the valley–the inner temple being still almost complete, and on the walls it is not difficult to trace the remains of carefully carved images. The surrounding walls are much broken, but have evidently been formed of the splendid blocks of hewn and carved limestone which lie heaped in every direction. The temple faces the sun, in whose honour it was built about 350 A.D.

"_20th July._–To-day, we loosened our moorings, and sailed away from Islamabad, not without the hope that what had been done and said would, in God's good time, bear fruit. The Maharajah's servants were exceedingly civil and obliging, and the kotwal spoke very kindly of the Rev. R. Clark, who had visited Islamabad the previous year.

"_22d July._–The previous evening, we arrived at the village of Kákapur, which is situated on the left bank of the river Jhelum. On arriving, intimation was given that the hakim would receive patients in the morning. In the morning, a company of fifty was gathered under the shade of a gigantic plane tree on the bank of the river, near to our boats. Qadir read the third chapter of St. John's Gospel, and then explained the nature of the new birth, with its fruits. The people most attentive, and apparently interested. Twenty-six persons applied for advice and medicine. The poverty and filth of the people great. The majority of the cases ophthalmic.

"_27th July._–(Srinagar). In the afternoon, performed Chopart's operation for caries of the bones of tarsus. The patient was a girl, whose father and mother were present during the operation. Chloroform was administered to the patient, who went off very quickly. In operating, my difficulties are legion, for I have everything to do myself.

"_10th August._–Twenty-seven men and twenty-seven women present. One man from Baramula, another from Islamabad, the two extremities of the valley. Addressed them myself from the opening verses of St. John's Gospel: one of the Diwan's principal officers was present, and when he heard me speak of the Son of God made manifest in the flesh, it was too much for him: he quietly rose and took his leave."

"_11th August._–Number of patients thirty-two. Subject of address from St. John xv., 'This is my commandment, that ye love one another, as I have loved you.' I always take care to select such passages as embody the cream of the Gospel–the Father's love, and the Father's Gift, Jesus the Son of God, Jesus God, His voluntary sacrifice of Himself for all who shall believe on Him, the free invitation to all to come and be saved. I touch but little on Mohammedanism or Hinduism. I think the spread of the gospel would be hindered by my doing so, and that more progress would be made if there were less of polemics in missionary operations. Let the gospel be fully preached, and we shall see that Christ is still the power of God unto salvation to everyone that believeth.

"_12th August._–Twenty-seven men and seventeen women present to-day. After dispensary work, my assistants and I sailed up the river to see the ruins of Pandrenton, an old Hindu Temple; distance no more than three miles, but it took us four hours to reach the place by water, the Jhelum meanders so. The temple is situated in the midst of a small lake, which is covered with reeds. It is built of large blocks of stone, and shows, in its style of architecture, a close affinity to the form of the common Hindu temple of Bengal, _i.e._, the square block surmounted by a pyramid roof. The floor is under water; lying near the edge of the small lake, we saw the God, a stone image, with red paint marks. It is still worshipped much. Returned by land. Saw quantities of hemp growing, and also some plants of "_thorn-apple_." Met many worshippers returning from Amarnath, one of whom told me that six men had been killed in ascending to the Holy Cave by the falling of some rocks.

"_15th August._–Fifty-three patients to-day. Addressed them from St. John iii. 16, 17. Felt my own heart glow with love to the Saviour, as I tried to commend Him to others. It is very trying to speak to an assembly on matters in which they have not the least sympathy. But the promise, 'Lo, I am with you alway,' is fulfilled.

"_22d August._–Learned to-day from one of the Maharajah's military servants that the report I had heard some time ago about the sepoys and people having been prohibited from coming to me was quite correct. Besides, it turns out that a sepoy had been placed at the end of the wooden bridge adjacent to my bungalow, to keep a watch upon my movements. Both the sepoys and people have up to this time paid very little attention to the prohibition. The collection made by the Rev. Mr. Cowie, the chaplain, for the Kashmir Medical Mission amounted to Rs.113, 6a.

"_26th August._–To-day, there were forty-four women and thirty-two men present at the morning's reception. A native gentleman called on me in the afternoon, to tell me he had spoken to the Diwan or governor of Kashmir, about my being allowed to remain during the winter months in the valley. I had operated on this man some time before, and he took this way of showing his gratitude. He said to my friend I could not obtain permission from the native Government to stay in Kashmir throughout the year, for the following reasons: 1. Because it would be contrary to the treaty; 2. Because there is a famine in the country, I might not be able to get provisions in the winter; 3. Because more than one European has lost his life by remaining in Kashmir during the winter months; and 4. Because it is contrary to the Maharajah's wish that Europeans should stay in Kashmir in winter. The sepoys and people who have derived benefit from the dispensary talk of petitioning the Diwan to allow me to remain.

"_29th August._–The number of patients present to-day was ninety. The address was delivered as usual, and the attention marked. Had two surgical operations–one the excision of a fatty tumour, and the other an operation for ectropion. Yesterday, was asked to conduct service in the usual place of worship–the chaplain being absent. Was greatly agitated at first, but became calmer as the service advanced. Read the first chapter of Bonar's 'God's Way of Holiness.' I greatly relish that book for its clear and thorough exhibition of divine truth. To-day, seventy-three patients, diseases chiefly 3d January, 1866.

He thus writes to his mother:–"_Sept. 23d, 1865_.–I am able–still very imperfectly, it is true–to tell the poor Kashmiris of God's overflowing love to sinners. The sinful heart is hard, but I firmly believe that, if anything will break it, and soften it, and make it holy and loving, it is the exhibition of God's infinite love to lost man. In speaking to others of Jesus and His unutterable love, I feel my own soul glowing and going out towards God in yearning desires for greater holiness, greater likeness to my blessed Redeemer, and for a complete consecration to His service. My heart's most earnest desire is, next to my own salvation, that God would honour me to lead many to the Saviour before I die, and I am hopeful of one or two of those among whom I labour. Paul may plant, and Apollos water, but it is God alone who can give the increase. Pray for the increase, dearest mother.

"I have good news to tell you; the chaplain here, the Rev. Mr. Cowie, is going home, and as he purposes visiting Aberdeen, he has kindly promised to call on you, and tell you all about me and the mission work. He has given me his horse and saddle–this horse was the property of Sir Colin Campbell during the mutiny. I forgot to tell you that a native gentleman has had a handsome signet ring made for me as a mark of his gratitude for my having cured him of a chronic and painful disease. My work goes on steadily; no spiritual fruit as yet; but, perhaps, I should not say this, for a Kashmiri, who fearlessly declared his faith in Christ in an open bazaar yesterday, endured a terrible beating from his fellow-countrymen, and still seems to stand fast. I had fifty patients this morning. They always listen attentively, but I can see by the countenances of many, that the word is not received with gladness. It would indeed be a miracle if it were, for the gospel strikes at the root of all that those benighted people look to for happiness in the next world or in this, and reproves them with a voice of thunder for the wicked life they live now. I have now no hope of being allowed to remain during the winter. Dear mother, pray that the Lord may mollify the Maharajah's heart.

"_24th._–To-day had sixty patients. Oh, dear mother, that we could wholly live to God and for others! How happy, truly happy, we should both be now and _on the other side_. Pray for me, dear mother. The devil would fain tempt me to think that this is fruitless work, and that I am a fool for not living for the present world, with its honours and wealth. Lord, we believe, help Thou our unbelief. Blessings on you, dear mother! Let us think more of Jesus, and of heaven, and of the life beyond! then we shall certainly be happy.

"_25th Sept._–Heard glad news to-day from the catechist, to the effect that my Kashmiri pundit had declared to him that he firmly believed the gospel was true, but that he was afraid to make a public profession of his faith in Jesus for fear of the consequences. He is but a Nicodemus in faith. Lord strengthen him. I was not at all surprised at this news, for the pundit generally spent his Sundays with us in reading the New Testament, and speaking about Christianity.

"_29th Sept._–Long conversation to-day with my servants on divine things. We spoke of baptism; its import, and what makes a man a true Christian. My pundit, a sepoy, a merchant, and native doctor, listened with manifest interest.

"_6th Oct._–Was called to see the Maharajah's chief military officer in Kashmir. He confirmed the report formerly spoken of. I could not help jocularly saying, that according to our European notions, the Maharajah's army must be in a state of insubordination from the colonel downwards.

"_16th Oct._–Was requested by the Brahmin, who is at the head of financial affairs in Kashmir, and on whom I had operated a short time before, to go with him and see one of the female members of his family who had sore eyes, according to his account. I was only too glad to go with him, in order to get an entrance into this Hindu family.

"_17th Oct._–To-day left Srinagar. The Brahmin of yesterday accompanied me out of the town, and expressed how grateful he felt for the benefit he had received from the Medical Missionary Dispensary. I purpose returning to the Punjaub by the Pir Panjal, and following the same plan as I did on my way into the valley, _i.e._, of having receptions and addresses at each of the resting-places."

Before starting with Dr. Elmslie on his return to Amritsar, the following testimonies to the value of his work in Kashmir, and of Medical Missions in general, may be suitably introduced:–

The Bishop of Calcutta entered the following remarks in the visitors' book:–"During my present stay in Kashmir I have twice been present at Dr. Elmslie's reception of patients, and bear willing testimony to the great interest and practical usefulness, as well as to the wise and Christian character of his proceedings. He presents Christianity to the people in its most obviously beneficent aspect; and for this union of care for men's souls with the healing of their bodies the gospel narrative furnishes us with the very highest justification and precedent. It is but little that we can, at present, do to make known to the people of this country the blessings of Christ's salvation; but I quite believe that Dr. Elmslie is knocking at the one door which may, through God's help, be opened for the truth to enter in. I heard two Hindustani sermons from his catechist, addressed to the sufferers from various maladies, who were gathered in the verandah, one on the Lord's prayer, and the other on the parable of the sower. Both were excellent, simple, unpretending, suited to the hearers, placing before them plain Christian truth, and without any offensive remarks on their own religions, or the very slightest political allusion. The fact that there are not (and, under present circumstances, apparently cannot be) any properly educated doctors in Kashmir, makes Dr. Elmslie's presence here an act of Christian benevolence, quite apart from its missionary character; and I cannot but hope that this, joined to the quiet efforts of the chaplain to keep alive in English travellers a feeling of Christian faith and responsibility, will at least remove from the minds of the people any prejudice against the Gospel which may, I fear, have been excited by the too frequent misconduct of Englishmen visiting the valley. On all accounts I heartily commend Dr. Elmslie's efforts to the sympathy of all thoughtful persons, and I feel sure that he will be guided by prudence, as well as zeal, and will not forget what is due to the wishes of the Government of the country, while, at the same time, he will of course maintain the directly Christian character of his work."

The subjoined was written by the Rev. W. G. Cowie, M.D., chaplain on duty in Kashmir:–"Dr. Elmslie has asked me to state here any suggestions I may have to offer respecting the system pursued by him at his daily receptions of patients. I have been present on several occasions during the last four months, and much pleased each time by what I saw and heard. I frequently ask natives of Kashmir what they think about the Medical Mission, and am invariably told by them that they consider Dr. Elmslie's work a great blessing to the poor of Srinagar, and of the valley in general. I am not acquainted with the working of any other mission whose system I consider so hopeful as that adopted by Dr. Elmslie; and during my expected sojourn in England and Scotland (in 1866-67), it will afford me the greatest pleasure to advocate the claims of the mission on the Christian public in every way I can."

One more testimony may be introduced, by the Rev. G. Yeates, M.A., missionary, Moultan:–"As a brother missionary, I feel great pleasure in adding my testimony to the value of the Medical Mission in Kashmir, as conducted by Dr. Elmslie. While in Srinagar, I have frequently been present at his receptions of patients, as also at Islamabad, when he visited that town, and have enjoyed the meetings very much. I have seldom heard gospel truths more faithfully preached than in the addresses to the patients, which, along with the prayer that followed each, could not have been better suited to the audience. The spirit of love was manifested in all that was said, while the more tangible appeal to the senses which followed, in the way of medicines and advice, afforded a strong proof of the intention to benefit them which, under God's blessing, cannot but result in good."