Chapter I: Preface

The author established and since its inception has been in charge of the first industrial school for boys and girls in Massachusetts. At an early date he recognized the need of special text-books to meet the demand of young people who are attending vocational schools. There are plenty of books written on textiles for technical school students and advanced workers. But the author has failed to find a book explaining the manufacture and testing of textiles for commercial, industrial, domestic arts, and continuation schools, and for those who have just entered the textile or allied trades. This book is written to meet this educational need. Others may find the book of interest, particularly the chapters describing cotton, woolen, worsted, and silk fabrics.

The author is under obligations to Mr. Franklin W. Hobbs, treasurer of the Arlington Mills, for permission to use illustrations and information from literature published by the Arlington Mills; to Mr. S. H. Ditchett, editor of _Dry Goods Economist_, for permission to use information from his publication, "Dry Goods Encyclopedia"; to the editor of the _Textile Mercury_; to Frank P. Bennett, of the _American Wool and Cotton Reporter_, for permission to use information from "Cotton Fabrics Glossary"; and to the instructors of the Lawrence Industrial School for valuable information. In addition, information has been obtained from the great body of textile literature, which the author desires to acknowledge.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

FIBERS
PAGE
Animal Fibers--Wool, Silk, Mohair. Vegetable--Cotton,
Flax, Jute, Hemp. Mineral--Asbestos, Tinsel, Metallic.
Remanufactured Material--Noils, Mungo, Shoddy, Extract,
and Flocks. Artificial Fibers--Spun Glass, Artificial
Silk, Slag Wool. Structure of Wool. Characteristics of
Wool. Classification of Wool. Carpet and Knitting Wools.
Sheep Shearing. Variation in Weight of Fleeces. Shipping
the Fleeces. Value of Wool Business. Saxony and Silesian
Wool, Australian Wool, Port Philip Wool, Sydney Wool,
Adelaide Wool, Van Wool from Tasmania, New Zealand Wool,
Cape Wools, Wools from South America, Russian Wool, Great
Britain Wools, Lincoln, Leicester, Southdown, Shropshire;
Cashmere Wools, Norfolkdown and Suffolkdown Wools, Cheviot
Wool, Welsh Wools, Shetland Wools, Irish Wools, Mohair,
Alpaca Wool. How Wool is Marketed 1

CHAPTER II

WOOL SORTING

Sorting. Classing Grades of Wool. Merino Wool. Difference
between Lamb's and Sheep's Wool. Pulled Wool. Delaine
Wool. Wool Sorter. Wool Washing, Wool Drying, Oiling.
Burring and Carbonizing. Bur Picker, Blending 16

CHAPTER III

WOOL SUBSTITUTES AND WASTE PRODUCTS

Wool Substitutes and Waste Remanufactured--Noils, Shoddy,
and Mungo. Methods of Producing Shoddy and Mungo--Dusting,
Sorting, Seaming, Oiling, Grinding. Extract Wool. Flocks 32

CHAPTER IV

WORSTED YARN

Carding, Combing. Worsted Tops--Gill Boxes. Different
methods of Spinning--Bradford or English System, French
System. Structure of Worsted Yarn. Uses of Worsted Yarn.
Counts of Worsted Yarn 39

CHAPTER V

WOOLEN YARN

Operations in Producing Woolen Yarn--Washing, Carding,
Spinning, Mule Spinning. Counts of Woolen Yarn. Uses of
Woolen Yarn 50

CHAPTER VI

WEAVING

Preparatory to Weaving--Warp. Weaving--Weaving Processes,
Classes of Weave--Plain or Homespun Weave, Twill, Satin
Weaves, Figure Weaving (Jacquard apparatus), Double Cloth,
Pile Weaving, Gauze Weaving, Lappet Weaving 53

CHAPTER VII

DYEING AND FINISHING

Dyeing. Wool Dyeing, Piece Dyed, Cross Dyed, Yarn Dyed.
Style--Designing, Finishing, Perching, Burling, Mending,
Fulling, Crabbing, Tentering, Napping, Pressing. Theories
of Coloring in Textile Design. Various Methods of
Employing Fancy Shades. Adulteration 65