Chapter VIII: Woolen and Worsted Fabrics

Albatross, Alpaca, Corded Alpaca, Angora, Astrakhan,
Bandanna, Beaver (Fur Beaver), Bedford Cord, Beige,
Bindings, Bombazine, Bottany, Boucle, Broadcloth, Bunting,
Caniche, Cashmere, Cashmere Double, Cassimere, Castor,
Challis, Cheviot (Diagonal or Chevron), Chinchilla,
Chudah, Corduroy, Côte Cheval, Coupure, Covert, Delaine,
Doeskin, Drap d'Été, Empress Cloth, Épingline, Etamine,
Felt, Flannel, Dress Flannel, French Flannel, Shaker
Flannel, Indigo Blue, Mackinaw, Navy Twilled Flannel, Silk
Warp, Baby Flannel. Florentine, Foule, Frieze, Gloria,
Granada, Grenadine, Henrietta Cloth, Homespun, Hop
Sacking, Jeans, Kersey, Kerseymere, Linsey Woolsey,
Melrose, Melton, Meltonette, Merino, Mohair Brilliantine,
Montagnac, Orleans, Panama Cloth, Prunella, Sacking,
Sanglier, Sebastopol, Serge, Shoddy, Sicilian, Sultane,
Tamise, Tartans, Thibet, Tricot, Tweed, Veiling, Venetian,
Vigogne (Vicuña), Vigoureux, Voiles, Whipcord, Worsted
Diagonals, Zephyr, Zibeline 83

CHAPTER IX

COTTON

Rough Peruvian, East Indian, Egyptian, Sea Island.
American Crop--Planting, Picking, Ginning--Roller Gins,
Saw Gins. Cotton Gin. Information on the Leading Growths
of Cotton. Grades--Full Grades, Half Grades, Quarter
Grades. Varieties--Sea Island (selected), Sea Island
(ordinary), Florida Sea Island, Georgia, Egyptian, Peeler,
Orleans or Gulf Upland, Texas 105

CHAPTER X

MANUFACTURE OF COTTON YARN

Picker Room, Carding Machine, Combing, Drawing. Flyer
Frames--Intermediate Frame, Roving Frame, Fine or Jack
Frame Spinning--Mule Spinning, Ring Spinning 125

CHAPTER XI

THREAD AND COTTON FINISHING

Manufacturing Processes. Thread Numbers. Sizing. Cotton
Finishing--Bleaching, Starching, Calendering, Mercerizing.
Characteristics of fine Cotton Cloth 139

CHAPTER XII

KNITTING

Knitting Machines. Stripe Knitting, Knitting Cotton,
Knitting Silk, Hosiery Manufacture, Finishing Process 153

CHAPTER XIII

LACE

Needlepoint Lace. Pillow Lace. Lace Terms Defined 164

CHAPTER XIV

COTTON FABRICS

Albatross, Awning, Batiste, Bourrette, Bedford Cord,
Buckram, Calico, Cambric, Canvas, Chambray, Cheesecloth,
Chiné, Chintz, Cotton Flannel, Crash, Crêpe, Crepon,
Cretonne, Crinoline, Damask, Denim, Diaper, Dimity, Domet,
Duck, Drill, Eolienne, Etamine, Flannelette, Fustian,
Galatea Cloth, Gauze, Gingham, Italian Cloth, Jaconet,
Khaki, Lawn, Lingerie, Linon, Long Cloth, Madras, Moreen,
Mull, Mummy, Muslin, Nainsook, Organdie, Osnaburg,
Percale, Percaline, Piqué, Poplin, Plumetis, Rep, Sateen,
Scrim, Silesia, Souffle, Swiss, Tape, Tarletan, Terry
Cloth, Zephyr Gingham 173

CHAPTER XV

FLAX

Physical Structure. Uses. Mechanical Processes--Crushing
or Beating, Breaking, Scutching, Hackling, Bleaching.
Characteristics of Good Linen, Notes on Table Linen 193

CHAPTER XVI

HEMP

Bast Fibers, Sisal Hemp, Manila Hemp, Ramie, Jute 199

CHAPTER XVII

SILK

Cocoons. Raw Silk. Silk-producing Countries--China, Japan,
Italy, Southern France, Greece, Turkey, Western Asia.
Throwing. Thrown Silk--Tram, Crêpe Yarn. Embroidery Silk.
Sewing Silk. Silk Waste, Spun Silk, Floss Silk. Ribbons,
Silk Thread, Silk Cord. Dyeing Yarns. Silk Dyeing. Logwood
Black Silk Dyeing--(1) Boiling Off, (2) Mordanting, (3)
Blue Bottoming, (4) "Weighting" Bath, (5) Mordanting, (6)
Dyeing. Colored Silks. Mixed Silk Fabrics. Ribbons,
Velvets, Printing, Finishing, Waterproofing 203

CHAPTER XVIII

PRINCIPAL SILK FABRICS

Alma, Barège, Bengaline, Berber, Brocade, Brocatel,
Bombazine, Chenille, Chiffon, China Silk, Crêpe, Crêpe de
Chine, Eolienne, Foulard, Glacé, India Silk, Japanese
Silk, Jersey Cloth, Meteor, Moire, Mozambique, Organzine,
Panne, Peau de Soie, Plush, Pongee, Popeline, Poplin,
Figured Poplin, Terry Poplin, Sarsenet, Satin, Soleil,
Taffeta, Tulle, Velour, Velvet, Velveteen, Tabby Velvet,
Voile 219

CHAPTER XIX

ARTIFICIAL SILK

Silk Cotton, Artificial Silk, Tests 230

CHAPTER XX

SUBSTITUTES FOR COTTON

Wool Pulp, Ramie, Pineapple Fibers, Spun Glass, Metallic
Threads, Slag Wool, Asbestos 232

APPENDIX

Determining Style of Weave. Tests for Strength and
Elasticity. Determining Count of Warp and Filling,
Shrinkage, Weight. Tests for Constituents of Warp and
Filling, for Vegetable and Animal Fibers. Acid Test.
Cotton Distinguished from Linen, Silk from Wool,
Artificial Silk from Silk. Test for Shoddy. Determination
of Dressing. Test for Permanence of Dyes 235

History of Textiles. History of the Organization of
Textile Industries. History of Manufacturing. History of
Lace 245

EXPERIMENTS

Experiments 1 to 62 267

Sources of Supply 319

Index 323

TEXTILES