Chapter XIII: Lace

=Lace.= Lace is the name applied to an ornamental open work of threads of flax, cotton, silk, gold, or silver, and occasionally of mohair or aloe fiber. The latter are used by the peasants of Italy and Spain.

Lace consists of two parts, the ground and the flower. The threads may be looped, plaited, or twisted in one of three ways. First, with a needle, when the work is known as "needlepoint lace." Second, when bobbins, pins, and a pillow or cushion are used; this is called "pillow lace." Third, by machinery, when imitations of both point and pillow lace patterns are produced.

Special patterns for these laces date from the beginning of the sixteenth century. The early productions of the art had some analogy to weaving; the patterns were stiff and geometrical, sometimes cut out of linen or separately sewed and applied to the meshed surface, but more frequently they were darned in, the stitches being counted in, as in tapestry. This kind was known as darned netting. With the development of the renaissance of art, free flowing patterns and figure subjects were introduced and worked in.

Whether of needlepoint or pillow make, both the ornament and the ground are produced by the lace maker. Needlepoint is made by first stitching the net with thread along the outline of a pattern drawn on paper or parchment, thus producing a skeleton thread pattern. This threadwork serves as a foundation for the different figures which are formed in the lace.

Bobbin or pillow lace more nearly resembles weaving. The threads are fixed upon a circular or square pillow, placed variously to suit the methods of manufacture in vogue in different countries. The object of using the pillow is to prevent too much handling of the lace. One end of each thread is fastened to the cushion with a pin, the main supply of thread being twined around a small bobbin of wood, bone, or ivory. The threads are twisted and plaited together by the lace maker, who throws the bobbins over and under each other. The operation is fairly simple, since children of eight or nine years of age can be trained to it successfully. It demands, however, considerable dexterity with the fingers.

The design for pillow lace must of course be adapted to the technical requirements of the process, and cannot therefore be the same as one for needlepoint, which has a better appearance and greater strength than pillow lace. For this reason it was in former times generally preferred for wear on occasions of state. On the other hand, pillow lace has the quality of charming suppleness, and for use in mantillas, veils, and fichus it is better than needlepoint, lending itself with delicate softness and graceful flexibility as a covering to the head and shoulders of women.

LACE TERMS DEFINED

_Alençon (Point d')._--Fine needlepoint lace with the
ground of double-twist thread in a semi-net effect. Is
usually worked with horsehair on the edges to give
firmness to the cordonnet. Called after the city in
France where it is made.

_Allover._--Name for all wide laces used for flouncing,
yokes, and entire waists. Usually the lace is over
eighteen inches in width.

_American Laces._--A general term formerly used to
distinguish lace made in this country, the development
of the industry having now rendered the term nearly
obsolete.

_Angleterre (Point d')._--Fine Brussels pillow lace,
distinguished by a rib of raised and plaited threads
worked in the lace. Shown in floral, ornithological, and
geometrical designs.

_Antique._--Hand-made pillow lace of heavy linen thread
in a large, open, rectangular knotted mesh. Used for
curtains, bed sets, draperies.

_Antwerp._--Bobbin lace, resembling early Alençon. Shows
a "pot"--that is, a vase or basket effect--in the
design.

_Appliqué._--Any lace in which the body and the design
are made separately. The body is usually silk and the
design cotton or linen.

_Appliqué Brussels._--Name sometimes given to Brussels
appliqué laces.

_Arabe (Point d')._--Coarse bobbin lace made in Belgium
and France as well as Arabia. Shows a large, bold
pattern, cable edged, and is almost invariably in a deep
écru tone. Used for curtains and draperies.

_Arabian._--Same as above.

_Argentine._--Similar to Alençon, the mesh being a
trifle larger.

_Arras._--Very strong, inexpensive, white bobbin lace,
of simple pattern, somewhat resembling Mechlin.
Distinguished by its light, single thread ground. Named
after the city in France where it is made.

_Aurillac._--Somewhat resembles Angleterre. Bobbin lace
made in Aurillac, France.

_Auvergne._--Any kind of bobbin lace made in Auvergne,
France. Different makes and patterns.

_Ave Maria._--A narrow edging lace.

_Baby Lace._--Light and simple edging lace made in
England.

_Battenberg._--Same as Renaissance. Designs confined to
flower patterns.

_Bayeux._--Bobbin lace, usually an imitation of Spanish
point. Also a black, rich lace made in large pieces for
shawls, head scarfs, etc.

_Binche._--Fine pillow lace, without cordonnet. Ground
resembles a spider-web with small dots. Made in Binche,
Belgium.

_Bisette._--Coarse, narrow French peasant lace in simple
designs. Name often applied to cheap bordering laces.

_Blonde._--So called, being originally a bobbin lace
made of unbleached silk, though now shown in black,
white, and colors. Made with two different sizes of
thread; fine thread for the ground, coarse for the
design. Usually takes some floral form. Very lustrous.

_Bobbin Lace._--Imitation of pillow lace. Made in
England and France.

_Bobbinet._--The same.

_Bone Lace._--An obsolete term once given to Honiton
bobbin lace.

_Bone Point Lace._--Applied to laces having no regular
ground or mesh, such as Renaissance.

_Border Lace._--Practically synonymous with edging.

_Bourdon._--A machine lace made of both silk and cotton.
Show scroll-like patterns cable-edged on a regular mesh.
Usually dyed black, but sometimes bleached. The outline
is of a heavy lustrous thread. Used chiefly for dress
trimming and millinery.

_Brettone._--Cheap narrow edging.

_Bride Lace._--Lace with the pattern connected with
brides. Same as bone point lace.

_Brides._--Slender threads connecting different parts of
a pattern.

_Brussels Net._--Plain net made originally in Brussels,
but now produced in all lace manufacturing countries.

_Brussels Pillow._--Fine pillow lace with the patterns
joined together by little loops on their edges.

_Brussels Point._--Shows an open pattern, made partly in
open, partly in closed, stitch, giving the appearance of
shading.

_Carrickmacross._--Tiny Irish cambric drawn work,
appliqué on net.

_Cartisane._--Guipure or passementerie made with thin
silk or gilt-covered strips of parchment.

_Chantilly._--Pillow lace very similar to blonde. Comes
from Chantilly, France. Made in both silk and cotton and
usually seen in black. Non-lustrous, and looks as if
made from black linen thread.

_Chiffon Lace._--Chiffon embroidered in twist silk.

_Cluny._--Coarse-thread bobbin lace, made in both linen
and cotton. Shows a close-stitch pattern darned on an
open ground. Used for dress trimmings and the
manufacture of curtains.

_Cork Lace._--A sweeping term used to designate all
laces of Irish make.

_Cotton Lace._--All lace made of cotton.

_Craponne._--Cheap, stout thread furniture guipure.

_Crochet Lace._--Any point lace made with the crochet
hook.

_Darned Lace._--A comprehensive term taking in all net
effects with the pattern applied in needlework.

_Devonshire Lace._--Lace made in this part of England,
and especially Honiton imitation.

_Dieppe._--Fine needlepoint lace made in Dieppe, France.
Resembles Valenciennes. Made with a regular ground of
squares of small meshes alternating with open squares
upon which the pattern is applied in close stitch.

_Duchesse._--Pillow lace with fine net ground with the
patterns in raised work, volants, and the like.

_Dutch Lace._--Practically a coarse Valenciennes.

_English Point._--See Angleterre.

_Escurial._--Heavy silk lace made in imitation of Rose
point. Patterns outlined with cable edge.

_Esprit (Point d')._--Dotted bobbinet with the dots
either singly or in clusters.

_Filet Lace._--Any lace made with a square mesh net.

_Flemish Point._--Needlepoint lace made in Flanders.

_Footing._--Simple insertion of Brussels net from one to
three inches in width.

_Galloon._--Irregular band with a fancy edge. Entire
piece often in zigzag or scallop form.

_Gaze (Point de)._--Flemish point lace resembling point
d'Alençon, though much softer, being without horsehair.

_Gêne (Point de)._--Openwork embroidery made on a wool
ground which is afterwards eaten away by acid.

_Genoa._--Heavy lace made of aloe fiber. Another name
for macramé.

_Gimp._--See Guipure.

_Gold Lace._--Gimp or braid covered with gold or
imitation gold thread.

_Grammont._--White pillow lace used for shawls and the
like. Black silk lace nearly resembling blonde.

_Guipure._--Fancy trimming of wire cord whipped round
with silk or cotton threads, and the small patterns
stitched together.

_Guipure d'Art._--Linen net upon which raised
intersecting patterns are worked.

_Guipure de Flanders._--A pillow lace made separately,
having flowers connected by bars and brides.

_Hand Embroidered._--Heavy point lace, usually of Plauen
manufacture, with fancy floral or other figures
embroidered on the design.

_Honiton._--English bobbin lace, famed for the beauty of
its designs. Named for the city where it was first
manufactured. Now made in Belgium, Holland, and France.
Sprays sometimes made separately, and then worked on a
net--Honiton appliqué.

_Honiton Braid._--Narrow machine-made braid of
ornamental oval figures connected by narrow bars. Used
for collars, handkerchiefs, and tidies.

_Honiton Guipure._--Large flower-pattern lace on very
open ground, the sprays held together with brides or
bars.

_Imitation Lace._--A term used to designate any
machine-made lace in contrast with hand-made.

_Insertion._--Any narrow lace with a plain edge on
either side that admits of its being inserted in a
fabric.

_Irish Crochet._--Heavy hand-made lace, remarkable for
the beauty and distinctness of its patterns, and the
startling whiteness of the linen thread used in its
manufacture.

_Irish Lace._--A general term used to designate all lace
made by the Irish peasantry.

_Irish Point._--Hybrid combination of appliqué, cut
work, and embroidery on net with elaborate needle
stitching in the higher grades.

_Irish Trimming._--Simple, woven lace, used on white
wear.

_Knotted Lace._--Frequently referred to as knotting. A
fancy weave of twisted and knotted threads in close
imitation of some old hand laces.

_Lille (Also Lile)._--French lace named after the town
where it is made. Somewhat resembles Mechlin. Shows a
very clear, light ground and is the most beautiful of
all simple thread laces.

_Limerick Lace._--A form of embroidery on net or muslin.

_Luxeuil._--A general term for hand-made laces of
Luxeuil, France. More specifically those of a stout,
heavy nature. Used for tidies, curtains, draperies.

_Macramé._--Knotted hand-made lace, made of a very heavy
cord. Shown principally in geometrical designs. Very
popular in deep écru.

_Maline._--Fine silk net. Sometimes also applied to
Mechlin lace with a diamond mesh.

_Maltese._--Coarse machine-made cotton lace, resembling
torchon. Has no regular ground, the patterns being
usually connected with heavy stitch work.

_Mechlin._--Light pillow lace with the pattern outlined
by a fine but very distinct thread or cord. Real Mechlin
generally has the ground pattern woven together, the
latter running largely to flowers, buds, etc.

_Medallion._--Single, detached pattern.

_Medici._--Special kind of torchon edging, with one edge
scalloped.

_Mélange._--Hand-made silk pillow lace, showing a
combination of conventional Chantilly with Spanish
designs.

_Mignonette._--Light bobbin lace, made in narrow strips.
Resembles tulle.

_Miracourt._--Sprig effects of bobbin-lace applied on
net ground.

_Mexican Drawnwork._--Little round medallions either
single or in strips, the threads drawn to form a
cartwheel. Mexican and Teneriffe drawnwork are
practically the same. Machine imitations made in
Nottingham, Calais, and St. Gall.

_Motif._--See Medallion.

_Nanduly._--South American fiber-lace, made by needle in
small squares, which are afterward joined together.
Design very beautiful and of remarkable durability.

_Needlepoint Lace._--See Point Lace.

_Normandy Lace._--See Valenciennes.

_Nottingham._--A general term including all the
machine-made laces turned out in that great
lace-producing center of England.

_Oriental Lace._--Really an embroidery, being produced
on the Schiffli machine, the pattern being then either
cut or eaten out. Also applied to point d'Arabe and
certain filet effects.

_Oyah Lace._--A crocheted guipure shown in ornate
patterns.

_Passementerie._--A decorative edging or trimming,
especially gimp or braid.

_Picots._--Infinitesimal loops on brides and other
strands.

_Pillow Lace (Bobbin Lace)._--Made on a pillow with
bobbins and pins. Machine-made imitations retain the
name.

_Plauen._--Applied to all laces emanating from that
section of Saxony and including imitations of nearly all
point laces, which are embroidered on a wool ground,
this being afterward dissolved in acid and the cotton or
silk design left intact.

_Point de Gaze._--Fine gauze-like needle-lace.

_Point d'Irelande._--Coarse machine lace, made in
imitation of real Venetian point.

_Point de Milan._--A variety of guipure, having a ground
of small meshes, and a pattern consisting of bold,
flowing scroll devices.

_Point de Paris._--A variety of cheap machine lace,
cotton, of simple design.

_Point Kant._--Flemish pillow lace, with a net ground
and the design running largely to "pot" effects--pot
lace.

_Point Lace._--Lace made by hand with needle and single
thread. Needlepoint the same. Point d'Alençon, point de
Venise, etc., are all variations of point lace and will
be found classified under their initials.

_Point Plat._--Point lace without raised design.

_Renaissance._--Modern lace, made of narrow tape or
braid formed into patterns, held together by brides, the
brides forming subsidiary designs. Battenberg is the
same thing.

_Repoussé._--Applied to the design, being a pattern that
has the effect of being stamped in.

_Rococo._--Italian lace, bearing the rococo design.

_Rose Point._--See Venetian point.

_Seaming Lace._--Narrow, openwork insertion.

_Seville._--Variety of torchon.

_Spanish Lace._--A comprehensive term. Convent-made,
needlepoint lace. Cut drawnwork effects, also
convent-made. Needlepoint lace in large squares. Black
silk lace in floral designs.

_Spanish Point._--Ancient embroidery of gold, silver,
and silk passementerie.

_Swiss Lace._--Swiss embroidered net in imitation of
Brussels.

_Tambour._--Variety of Limerick.

_Tape Lace._--Hand-made needle lace, similar to
Renaissance.

_Thread Lace._--Made of linen thread, as distinguished
from cotton and silk laces.

_Torchon._--Coarse, open bobbin lace of stout but
loosely twisted thread in very simple patterns. Much
seen in imitations, usually in narrow widths.

_Van Dyke Points._--Applied to laces with a border made
in large points.

_Valenciennes._--Commonly called Val. Bobbin lace, seen
mostly in cheap insertions and in the form of narrow
edgings.

_Venetian Point._--Point de Venise. Needlepoint lace in
floral pattern with the designs very close together and
connected by brides ornamented with picots.

_Wood Fiber._--Applied to all laces made of wood silk.

_Yak._--Machine-made worsted lace. Used for trimming for
shawls, petticoats, and undergarments.

_Youghal._--Needlepoint lace of coarse thread, made
exclusively in Ireland.

_Ypres._--Bobbin lace, somewhat coarser than Val.