Chapter XII: Part 12

From _Erfurt_ I went to LEIPSIC[64] one of the most considerable Cities in the Electorate of _Saxony_, and of special Note for its University and its Fairs. The former, which was founded in 1408, by _Frederic_ the _Warrior_, has always supported it self with Reputation, notwithstanding the Neighbourhood of the University of _Hall_. The Situation of _Leipsic_ is charming, and which way soever one enters it, there are beautiful Houses and Gardens kept in excellent Order. The _Boses_ and _Appel_, Merchants of _Leipsic_ have Gardens at the Gates of the Town, in which they have laid out surprizing Sums of Money: _Appel_ especially has a Garden which a Prince need not be asham’d of. Besides these Gardens here are Walks, which are not the less agreeable for being natural. Here is a remarkable Wood, which is called in the Language of the Country _Rosendahl_, _i. e._ the _Vale of Roses_. It consists of fourteen Walks, with a great Meadow in the Middle. Each Walk has a noble Point of View, and they are all agreeably diversify’d. The Inside of _Leipsic_ is perfectly answerable to the Out-parts: The Streets are very even, and the Houses large and well built. The only fault I found with them is, that they are too much charg’d with Sculpture, and not duly proportion’d: They are all very lofty, and for the Generality five or six Stories high. The Rents of them are very dear, and at the time of the Fairs there’s such a Resort of Merchants hither from all parts, that ’tis very difficult to get a Lodging. When I came thither ’twas _Michaelmas_ Fair; at which time the King of _Poland_ was there. This Prince when he comes to _Leipsic_ does not lodge in the Castle, tho’ it has very commodious Apartments, but resides in the House of _Appel_, the Merchant whom I just now mention’d, who is Proprietor of one of the finest Gardens thereabouts. That King gives the Preference to his House, because ’tis near the Place where the Fair is kept. So much, _Madame_, for what is chiefly remarkable at _Leipsic_.

I made no long stay there, because I was impatient to return to BERLIN. At my first Arrival there I liv’d very retir’d. I foresaw the little Satisfaction I had to expect at that Court, which made me resolve not to be seen there. Nevertheless I could not conceal my self long; for the Favors with which the Margravine-Dowager had always honor’d me, obliged me to pay my Respects to that Princess, who receiv’d me very kindly, and soon after spoke of me to his Majesty in so favorable a Manner, that he was desirous to see me; and he sent M. _de Grumkau_ to bid me wait on him at _Charlottenbourg_, and to send in my Name to him by _Ast_, one of his Valets de Chambre. I could have been very glad to have been excused from paying Obedience to that Order; but it was too punctual, his Majesty having actually appointed the Hour that I was to appear before him. On the Day fix’d I therefore went to _Charlottenbourg_, and sent for _Ast_, who came and conducted me to a Gallery, where he bade me wait a little time; but I had not been there a Quarter of an Hour when the King enter’d it, attended by _la Fourcade_, Major-General and Commandant of _Berlin_. His Majesty came up directly to me, and ask’d me, with a good deal of Vivacity, _From whence I came, and what was the Cause of my Return to_ Berlin? I made answer, _That I was come last from_ France, _and that my domestic Concerns had brought me back to_ Berlin. His Majesty, who proceeded to enquire into my Affairs, seem’d well enough pleas’d with the Answers I had the Honor of making to him, and turning towards _la Fourcade_, said to him, _That he should never have known me, if he had not been appriz’d who I was beforehand_: And then he said to me, _That he should hereafter look on me no other than as a_ Frenchman. I made answer, _That I should think my self very unfortunate if his Majesty should look on me in that Light; and that let me be at ever such a Distance from his Person and his Dominions, I should always be ambitious of calling my self his Subject; and that I should constantly preserve the same Sentiments of Respect and Loyalty to my King and Country, in which I had been educated_. The King then ask’d me, _Whether I had any Intention to sell my Estate?_ I confess’d to him, _That I had no other Remedy left to enable me to satisfy my Creditors_; and I actually entreated him to interpose his Authority to procure the Consent of Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_ to the Sale of it. The King said to me, _That he would give his Orders to M. +de C----+, to engage her to hearken to Reason_; and then he very graciously dismiss’d me.

I went back to _Berlin_, and did not fail to return Thanks to the Margravine for the good Offices she had done me with the King. The Queen returning some few days after this from _Charlottenbourg_ to _Berlin_, I had the Honor to pay my Respects to her, and was kindly receiv’d. It was quickly blaz’d after what Manner I had been receiv’d by their Majesties, which was Reason enough to engage the Courtiers to shew me that Complaisance, which otherwise I durst not have expected. I took little notice, however, of those Gentlemens Compliments, but prepar’d my self for finishing the Grand Affair for which I was come. I caus’d advantagious Offers to be made to Mademoiselle _de Pollnitz_, to gain her Consent. The King order’d a Letter to be wrote and sent to her at _Hanover_, to determine her in my Favor; assuring her at the same time, _That he thought my Proposals very reasonable; and that her Acceptance of them would do him a Pleasure_. I also went my self to _Hanover_, to try if I could persuade her: But neither the Visits I made to her upon the Affair, nor those so powerful Recommendations of it, had any Effect; and she continu’d obstinate in her Refusal.

At my Return from _Hanover_, the King sent me an Order to wait on him. I was introduc’d by one of his Favorites into the Closet where his Majesty us’d to smoak. The King was then playing at a Game with Tables call’d _Tick-tack_, the Prince of _Anhalt_ Velt-Marshal, and several other Generals and Officers being present. The King rose up as soon as the Game was ended, came to me and talk’d with me for a while very graciously. And then sitting down, he order’d all that were in Company to take their Seats. Every one took his Place without observing any Rank. The King smoaked, as did most of the Gentlemen in the Closet; but by good Luck no body offer’d me a Pipe, which I was very glad of, because I could never smoak in all my Life. The King talk’d to me a great deal about my Affairs; and in particular about the Sale of my Estate. ’Twas not long before I perceiv’d that my Cousin had brought the King over to her Interest; for as soon as my Land came to be the Topic of Conversation, he told me in very plain Terms, _That it would be very wrong for me to part with it, even tho’ my Cousin were to give her Consent to it; that instead of paying my Debts with the Purchase-Money, I would be apt to squander it in my Pleasures; that ’twas high time to think of some Employment to enable me to pay my Debts, without selling my Estate_. He added, _That if, nevertheless, I persisted in my Resolution to sell it, he would write again to Mademoiselle_ de Pollnitz _to perswade her to consent to it; and that this was the utmost that he could do for me, as Affairs stood; since it would be an Injustice to compel her to give a Consent to any thing that she imagin’d would be to her prejudice_. After a little farther Discourse with me about my domestic Affairs, his Majesty talk’d to me of the Report current at _Berlin_, _That I had chang’d my Religion_; and ask’d me, _Whether ’twas really true, that I was turn’d_ Papist. I told him, _That I was of the Religion of my Ancestors_. Here I will acknowledge to my shame, that I had not Courage enough to make public Declaration that I was a Catholic. Besides, I hoped in so pressing a Dilemma to get off by a double Entendre; which is a Rule adopted by the Doctors themselves. The double Entendre consisted in that, when I said I was of the Religion of my Ancestors, I meant that which was formerly profess’d by my Grandfather and Great-Grandfather; and indeed all my Ancestors were Catholics. My Grandfather himself was a Catholic once, tho’ he embrac’d the new Religion, to swim with the Stream. The King, who concluded from what I said, that I was still a Protestant, did not press me farther upon that Head;, but the Prince of _Anhalt_ was not so easily satisfy’d; for he gave the King to understand that he believ’d the Reports of my having chang’d my Religion, were but too true, and he actually said to his Majesty _That the only way to be sure of the Truth of what I had affirm’d, would be to give me the Sacramental Test in the Church of the_ Dome. The King was also of that Opinion, nevertheless it did not take effect. At our leaving the King, the Prince of _Anhalt_, who, ’tis like, wanted to get a real Confession from me, that I had chang’d my Religion, charg’d it home upon my Conscience, and blam’d me very much for not having own’d that I was a Catholic. But as I could not be certain what was the Drift of those Remonstrances, I was so far from declaring my Mind to that Nobleman, that I still continu’d in the Negative.

The Audience which I had of the King gain’d me his Good-will; and he one day spoke so honorably of me in presence of the Courtiers, that my Friends advis’d me to strike in with this Ray of Favor, and petition him for some Employment. I followed their Advice, and wrote accordingly to the King, who was then at _Potzdam_.

Two Days after I sent my Letter, I receiv’d an Answer, sign’d with his Majesty’s own Hand, which was drawn up in these Terms;

_I received your Letter of the 9th of_ January, (1718) _and for Answer I assure you, that I grant you the first Pension of Gentleman of the Bed-Chamber that shall happen to be vacant_.

FREDERIC-WILLIAM.

I had such a grateful Sense of his Majesty’s kind Intentions towards me, that as soon as he was return’d to _Berlin_, I did not fail to go and thank him. His Majesty was so good as to say, _That the Trifle he had now granted me was not worth Thanks_. I thought, _Madame_, that this was a very hopeful Beginning for a Man not us’d to see his Undertakings crown’d with Success. The Courtiers strove who should be most complaisant to me; and I receiv’d Compliments from all hands, which fully persuaded me, that I was in high Favor: But my Stars did not indulge me long with this Calm; and a Storm soon arose, which drove me farther out of Port than I was before. It was owing to the following Accident.

In the beginning of the Year 1718, the King recall’d M. _de Kniphausen_ his Envoy in _France_, with a design to nominate another in his room. Several Persons sollicited for this Post; but I thought my self as well qualify’d for it as the best; and to pave the way for it, I propos’d to save the Government a great deal of Charge, by contenting myself with an Abatement of two hundred Crowns _per_ Month less than the usual Salary. This Proposal was so well relish’d by M. _de Grumkau_ the Minister of State, that he protected me, and undertook to recommend me to the King. I also spoke of it my self to M. _d’Ilgen_, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, whose Daughter was married to the said M. _de Kniphausen_. I gave this Minister to understand, that I should never have had a Thought of asking for this Place, if I had not been satisfy’d, that M. _de Kniphausen_ himself had desired to be recalled. M. _d’Ilgen_ received me with the utmost Civility, and promis’d with an Oath to serve me upon this Occasion; adding, that he could not express his Happiness in having such an Opportunity to discover the Respect and Veneration which he had for my Family. Such extraordinary Complaisance in a Courtier made me suspect the Sincerity of his Intentions, and I was quickly convinc’d that my Jealousy was but too well founded. When my Audience was over, this Minister would needs wait on me to the Door: I oppos’d it as much as I could, but when I saw it was to no purpose I gave him his way, and he attended me to the very Door of my Coach. I us’d many words with him upon his own Threshold, and begg’d him not to go a Step farther, especially as it rain’d very hard, which you’ll say was Reason enough of it self to have engaged him to retire: Yet it all signify’d nothing, he would not abate an Ace of his Complaisance, but stiffly stood it out by the side of my Coach, till it mov’d off. This, however, was all the Service he did me; for instead of serving me with the King, I knew from good Hands, that he acted the Reverse. I was told that he was not pleas’d with me for desiring less Salary than his Son-in-law had, who, when he was at _Paris_, was continually writing to _Berlin_, that his Allowance was not sufficient to maintain him.

To compleat my Happiness, the King receiv’d an anonymous Letter, assuring him that I was a true Catholic; and to inforce the Belief of it, there was added to the Letter an authentic Certificate from Father _Denis_, before whom I had made the Confession of my Faith. The King express’d his Resentment against me, and complain’d that I had impos’d upon him. Several People alarm’d me with more Danger than there was in reality; however, I was not frighten’d at first, for I suspected that the only Aim of the general Talk was to hinder me from going to Court, and did not think that the King was so angry as they gave out, till at last I was appriz’d that his Majesty had some Thoughts of putting me under an Arrest. The Person who came to bring me this Intelligence was _H----_, who was very well with _M----_ the King’s Favorite; and I gave the more Credit to it, because I did not think that he could be so dishonorable as to attempt to do me an ill Office. This _H----_ was a poor Wretch, who after having spent a handsome Fortune, had a very small Pension, which the King gave him, for having executed a Commission at _Stralsund_ with the King of _Sweden_, which few but himself would have accepted. As his Pension was too pitiful to subsist him, several Persons reliev’d him; and I will venture to say, That tho’ I was not in very easy Circumstances my self, yet I was some Support to him. Nevertheless, I can with Truth declare it, that he requited me with Ingratitude. He came to me with an Aggravation of that piece of Intelligence, which when all was said and done, was not of such a Nature as to drive me from the Court; but his manner of divulging it, made me believe I was ruin’d past Recovery, if I persisted in staying at _Berlin_. He came one day into my Chamber with a most dejected Air, and told me, _That he had been just inform’d by M._ de M----, _that as soon as the King was return’d, I should infallibly be arrested_; and at the same time he put on such an external Appearance of Concern to see me oblig’d to fly, that I took all he said for Gospel. I resolv’d therefore to be gone; but the Difficulty was to raise Money, which I had no means of doing but by making a great many disadvantagious Contracts, whereby I was a very great Sufferer in the Sequel.

After I had made Money of every thing I set out in the Night from _Berlin_, leaving word at home that I was bound to _Hanover_; but as soon as I was got out of Town I steer’d my Course for _Leipsic_, where I staid a few days, and then went to MENTZ, where I had a Cousin in the Elector’s Service, who entertain’d me as a good Kinsman would do, and introduc’d me to his Master, who gave me a most gracious Reception. I have already had the Honor to tell you of the Prerogatives of the Elector of _Mentz_ at the Coronation of an Emperor. It only remains for me to speak to you of his Person. He was _Francis-Lotharius_ of _Schonborn_, of the Illustrious Family of the Counts of _Schonborn_. Besides the Archbishopric of _Mentz_, he had also the Bishopric of _Bamberg_. He had then two Coadjutors, the Elector of _Triers_ Count _Palatine_ of the _Rhine_ for _Mentz_; and the Count _de Schonborn_, Vice-Chancellor of the Empire, for _Bamberg_. He might then be about seventy Years of Age. He was a Prince of a noble Aspect, affable, ador’d by both his Domestics and his Subjects, and very hearty for every thing that might contribute to the Tranquillity and Honor of the Empire. The City of _Mentz_ is obliged to him for the noble Works with which he has caus’d it to be fortify’d; for it may be said he has spar’d no Cost to put his Capital in such a State as to have nothing to fear from Foreigners.

_Mentz_[65] stands upon a rising Ground along the _Rhine_, in one of the finest Parts of _Germany_. ’Twas formerly no more than a Bishopric Suffragan to _Triers_, but Pope _Zachary_, or as some say _Gregory_ III. erected it into an Archbishopric, and granted him at the same time the Primacy of the Churches of _Germany_. ’Tis said that the first Bishop of _Mentz_, who was honor’d with the Dignity of Elector, was nam’d _Willigise_, and that he was the Son of a _Cartwright_, or, as others say, a _Carman_ of the Village of _Schoningen_ in the Country of _Brunswic_. He advanc’d himself purely by his own Merit to the Dignity of Chancellor to the Emperors _Otho_ III. and _Henry_ II. and finally to that of Archbishop of _Mentz_. But in all the height of his Fortune this Prelate continued in such an humble Frame of Mind that he caus’d Wheels to be painted every where about his Palace, that he might have the Badges of the Meanness of his Extraction always in his Eyes: And we are assur’d this is the Reason why the Electors of _Mentz_ always bear in their Arms a Wheel Argent in a Field Gules.

The Chapter of _Mentz_ consists of forty two Canons, of whom the Dean and the twenty three first are call’d _Capitulars_, and the other _Domicellaires_. The former only are those that elect the Archbishop, who from the Moment that he is chose, becomes an Elector of the Empire. The Pope confirms his Election in Spirituals, and the Emperor does the same in Temporals. The Elector becomes at the same time Great Chancellor of the Empire of _Germany_, which gives him the Title of perpetual Dean of the Electors, and an Inspection into the Aulic Council and the Imperial Chamber of _Wetzlar_.

_Mentz_ has a very flourishing Trade, especially in Wines. The best Vineyards for _Rhenish_ Wines are in the Dominions of the Elector, and especially in the Neighbourhood of _Mentz_. And that which also contributes very much to the Briskness of its Commerce is, that all the Merchandize that passes up and down the _Rhine_, stops in its Harbor, to be put on board fresh Bottoms.

I did not stay long at _Mentz_, but set out for STUTGARD[66], the Capital of the Duchy of _Wirtemberg_. This City stands in a very fine Country, and is divided into two parts by a small River call’d the _Neckar_. The Houses at _Stutgard_ are generally ill built, yet as the Streets are broad and lightsome, the Town is very gay. The Ducal Palace is very old but very commodious, by reason of the Extent and Number of the Apartments. Here is a very fine Garden with an Orangery, which is not to be parallel’d. The Trees are kept in full Mould, secur’d by a Roof and a sliding Partition, which they take care to warm in the Winter by several Stoves that make it one continu’d Summer. The Duke of _Wirtemberg_ is seldom in this Palace, except at the time of the Carnival; but as for his Duchess, she is there almost always, and has a separate House from the Duke’s, where she lives very retir’d. I wish’d for an Opportunity to pay my Respects to her, but was deprived of that Honor, because I had not been introduc’d to the Duke. This Prince’s usual Residence is at _Ludwigsbourg_ a Pleasure-House which he caus’d to be built some Leagues from _Stutgard_; but while I was at _Wirtemberg_ he was with the whole Court at _Wildstadt_, whither I went to have the Honor of paying my Duty to him. _Wildstadt_ is one of the vilest Places in _Germany_, yet ’tis very much frequented by reason of its Baths of Mineral Waters, which are said to be a sovereign Remedy for many Diseases, especially Sciaticas, and for bracing the Nerves. The Duke commonly spends a Month or six Weeks here with his whole Court, which being very numerous and splendid, _Wildstadt_ is then a Place agreeable enough. The Duke had with him the Hereditary Prince, his Son, who is married to _Henrietta_ of _Prussia_, the late Margrave _Philip_’s Daughter. The Person of this Prince was very amiable, and like the Duke his Father, his Behavior is the most courteous that can be, especially to Foreigners, to whom they are both very kind. While the Court was at _Wildstadt_, their Amusement in the Morning was the use of the Baths, where the Duke and the Prince his Son gave Gentlemen the Liberty of bathing with them; for it must be observ’d that each Bath will hold twenty Persons very commodiously. When the Bathing was over, they took their Rest. Towards Noon there was an Assembly in the Apartment of the Duke, who went from thence to the Apartment of the Hereditary Princess, who lodg’d with the Prince her Husband in a House over-against the Duke’s. There was a Table for sixteen Guests very well serv’d, where the Gentlemen eat with the Duke and his Children, and none but Pages waited. After Dinner the Duke either rode, or caus’d others to ride some manag’d Horses, than which I have no where seen any that were more beautiful or better train’d than his were. In the Evening there was another Assembly at the Princess’s, where there was play till Supper-time. I was told that when the Court was at _Ludwigsbourg_ there was a greater Variety of Diversions, and that besides Gaming there was some Theatrical Entertainments, of which the Duke was very fond, and actually kept a Company of _French_ Comedians in Pay, who perform’d very well. In a word, this Prince may be said to have neglected nothing that he thought suitable to his Dignity, or that might render his Court more splendid. And that every thing might look with a certain Air of Grandeur, he was resolv’d, like other Sovereigns, to establish an Order, of which he himself is the Head. They call it the Order of St. _Hubert_. ’Tis a broad red Ribband, to which hangs a Cross enamell’d white. None are admitted into it, but Persons of distinguish’d Families. Besides this Order, the Duke also wears those of _Prussia_ and _Denmark_ alternatively. The Hereditary Prince wears the _Prussian_ Order at large, and that of the Duke his Father at his Button-Hole, just as they wear the Cross of St. _Lewis_ in _France_, except nevertheless on the Festival Days of St. _Hubert_, when he wears the red Ribband at full length.

Among the Persons of Distinction that accompanied the Duke to _Wildstadt_, those of most Note were the Count _de Gravenitz_ and _S----_, which two Gentlemen had the sole Disposition of Affairs. The first was Grand Marshal of the Court and Prime Minister, and he wore the Order of _Prussia_, the King having therewith honor’d him at the Marriage of the Hereditary Prince with the Princess of _Prussia_. This Minister, who had the Duke of _Wirtemberg_’s intire Confidence, had been nominated to accompany the Hereditary Prince to _Berlin_. He certainly deserv’d the Favor with which the Duke honor’d him; and I have not known many Noblemen more civil and obliging. But _S----_ wanted a great deal of being so affable; tho’ his Origin was very different. He was a meer Creature of Fortune, who to be sure thought himself at the height of Felicity when he was Secretary to the late M. _B----_, Minister of State to the late King at _Berlin_. Nevertheless, after the Death of his Master his Star guided him to the Court of _Wirtemberg_, where he has amass’d immense Riches, and is entered into the greatest Employments. He wears the Order of _Dannebrog_, the King of _Prussia_ having desir’d it for him of the King of _Denmark_, upon the Recommendation of the Duke of _Wirtemberg_, who being very willing to give his Minister some Badge of Honor, and not caring at the same time to debase his own Order of St. _Hubert_, caus’d the Order of _Dannebrog_ to be demanded for him, which is given to all Persons indifferently without regard to Quality.

The Duke of _Wirtemberg_’s Court is altogether _Lutheran_, as well as the rest of his Dominions. Mean time he permitted the Princess, who is a _Calvinist_, to have a particular Chapel for her self and her Domestics. The Countess _de Gravenitz_, Wife to the Grand Marshal, who is a Catholic, was also allow’d a Chapel for the Exercise of her Religion.

I forgot to tell you what Title is assum’d by the Dukes of _Wirtemberg_. They call themselves _Banner-Bearers of the Empire_, which Title they distinguish in the third Quartering of their Shield, which is Azure with the Banner of the Empire, Or charg’d with a Spread-Eagle Sable, plac’d Bend-wise. The Dukes of _Wirtemberg_ have another Dignity more solid than the former, _viz._ to be joint Directors of the Circle of _Swabia_, with the Bishop of _Constance_.

The Duchy of _Wirtemberg_ was formerly confiscated to the use of _Ferdinand_ I. Brother to the Emperor _Charles_ V. but ’twas afterwards restor’d to the Princes of this Name, on condition of their holding it dependent on the House of _Austria_. This Feudal Subjection was annull’d in 1631, in the time of _Frederic_ Duke of _Wirtemberg_, on condition that upon the Failure of Issue Male, the Duchy should devolve to the House of _Austria_. In pursuance of these Treaties the Princes of that Family bear the Title and Arms of the Family of _Wirtemberg_.

While I staid at this Court that Disorder which I had been teaz’d with for several Years became at last so serious an Affair, that instead of proceeding to _Vienna_, to which I at first purpos’d to go, I set out for _Strasbourg_, in hopes of finding skilful Surgeons there to make the necessary Operation upon me. Several offer’d to take me in hand, but the King’s Lieutenant assur’d me, that my best way wou’d be to employ the Person that was Surgeon to the Great Hospital. I did so, but can’t say I had much reason to like him. He may, for aught I know, be an able Surgeon, but sure I am that he is a very dangerous Physician. He thought fit to give me Drugs (to prepare me, he said, to support the Operation) which had like to have sent me into the other World: But by good Luck I perceiv’d his Ignorance before he had time to kill me. I took no more of his Remedies; and when I found my self well enough recover’d to bear the Fatigues of a Journey, I resolv’d to go to _Paris_, which I take to be the Nursery of the most experienc’d Surgeons. I stop’d a few days at SAVERNE, where there was a very great Company at the House of the Cardinal _de Rohan_, to whom I had the Honor of paying my Compliments; and he receiv’d me with that Air of Politeness and Grandeur, for which we know this Prince is distinguish’d.

From _Saverne_ I went to _Luneville_, and in all the Way found no considerable Place but PHALTZBOURG, which was formerly a Part of _Lorrain_, and had the Title of a Principality. ’Tis now a Place very regularly fortify’d, and serves to guard the Road into _Lorrain_, which _France_ secur’d to her self by the Treaty of _Ryswic_.

The Court of _Lorrain_ commonly resides at LUNEVILLE, since the Beginning of the late War, when the _French_ put a Garison into _Nancy_, of which they continu’d Masters till the Treaty of _Baden_. This City, which heretofore was inconsiderable, is now worth seeing. The Duke of _Lorrain_ has added a great many Buildings to it, which are a great Ornament to it; and therefore the Duke and Duchess chuse to reside here, preferably to any other Place. As to the Duchess, she has a particular Reason for being so fond of _Luneville_, it being the City assign’d her for her Jointure.

The Castle, which is very fine, has nothing noble without, but the Inside is most magnificent. The Entrance and Front very much resemble those of _Versailles_ towards _Paris_. As to the Front towards the Garden I can say nothing of it, because that side of the Palace was not finish’d when I went thither. The Apartments of their Royal Highnesses are spacious, and richly furnish’d. The first Anti-chamber is a very large Saloon of curious Structure. ’Tis wainscotted and adorn’d with the Pictures of the _Lorrain_ Family. In one, the Duke’s Father is represented making a triumphant Entry in a Chariot drawn by four white Horses, with Fame flying before it, Peace and Victory offering him Crowns of Laurel, and the additional Trophy of _Turks_ in Chains trampled under his Horses Feet. The Whole together forms a magnificent Painting; and I was told there are Tapestries in the Duke’s Wardrobe, which are a Copy of it, but I did not see them.

This Saloon separates their Royal Highnesses Apartments from the Chapel, which for the Contrivance of it very much resembles that of _Versailles_. It stands on the Right of the Entry into the Saloon, and the Apartments are on the Left. The Prince’s Apartment looks over _Luneville_, and over the Courts belonging to the Kitchen, and the Princess’s is situate on the Garden-side. The Princess’s is much larger than the Duke’s; and when I saw it, ’twas richly furnish’d, adorn’d with noble Gilding, Glasses and Paintings by the best Masters; but this Part of the Palace has since been intirely consum’d by Fire, tho’ I am assur’d the Whole is re-built as well as before, and that the Apartments are every whit as well furnish’d. So much for the Palace: I will now give you a short Account of their Royal Highnesses, and their August Family, as it stood in 1718, when I had the Honor to see it.

_Leopold_ Duke of _Lorrain_ and _Bar_ was the Head of the Family, and the Sovereign of the Country. He married Mademoiselle of _France_, _Elizabeth-Charlotte_ of _Orleans_, Daughter of _Philip_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, Brother of _Lewis_ XIV. By which Marriage they had three Princes and three Princesses. The eldest Prince, who was stil’d Duke of _Bar_, died in 1723, at a Time when he was in Expectation of great Fortune. His Brother, who is Heir to that Expectancy, is actually bred up at _Vienna_, where the Emperor takes particular Care of his Education.

The Duke of _Lorrain_’s Houshold is considerable, and every thing is establish’d there on a good Footing. His Hunting-Equipages are magnificent, and so well furnish’d, that Foreigners who accompany the Prince into the Field, are equipp’d with Horses out of his Stables. The Prince’s Attendance is almost the same as that of the Princes of _France_, and all his Houshold on the same Footing. The Marquis _de Craon_ was then the Great Chamberlain and Prime Minister. He was a very courteous Nobleman, and treated all that had Business with him with extraordinary Civility. He had great Credit at Court, and the Prince was mighty bountiful to him; insomuch that after having heap’d Wealth upon this Favorite, he had a mind to see him promoted to the eminent Dignity of Prince, which upon the Duke’s Desire the Emperor conferr’d upon him accordingly. Not long after, one of the Prince of _Craon_’s Daughters was married to a Prince of the _Lorrain_ Family, _viz._ the Prince _de Lixin_, formerly known by the Name of the Chevalier _de Lorrain_, who is now the Duke of _Lorrain_’s Steward of the Houshold. His Father-in-law has given him his fine House at _Craon_, not far from _Luneville_. Madame _de Craon_, who is a Partner in her Husband’s Fortune and Credit, is Lady of Honor to the Duchess, and very much esteem’d by the Duke. I had the Honor to see this Prince spend the Afternoons at her House, and the Courtiers, after the Example of their Master, did justice to the Lady’s Merit.

From _Luneville_ I went to NANCY, which is the Capital City of _Lorrain_, and was formerly the Residence of the Sovereigns of the Country. It stands but a little distance from the River _Meurte_, in the midst of a beautiful Plain; and is divided into two Parts, _viz._ the Old and New Towns. I had the Honor to tell you, that the _French_ made a Conquest of it in 1631. It had good Reason to remember, that it was once under a Foreign Dominion; for its Fortifications were so demolish’d in 1668, that there was but one Rampart remaining without a Parapet; and in this Condition it was restor’d to its Sovereign at the Peace of _Ryswic_. Not many years after, when _Lewis_ XIV. enter’d into the War for maintaining his Grandson upon the _Spanish_ Throne, he oblig’d the Duke of _Lorrain_ to receive a Garison at _Nancy_. The Duke was so disgusted at this Proceeding, that tho’ the King had given Orders to his Officers, to pay his Royal Highness all the due Honors and Respect, he would not stay in a Town, of which he might be said to be Sovereign, but not the Master; and retir’d to _Luneville_, where he continu’d ever after, tho’ _Nancy_ was evacuated at the Treaty of _Baden_.

A little way from _Nancy_, in the Road to _Paris_, there’s a Chapel and a Cross, said to have been erected upon the very Spot where _Charles_ the last Duke of _Burgundy_ was kill’d in 1476, when he was besieging the Town, then in possession of _René_ Duke of _Lorrain_. There’s a Copper-plate affix’d to the Cross upon the High-way, on which may be read the Particulars.

Between _Nancy_ and _Toul_, which is in the _Paris_ Road, one passes thro’ the forest of _Haye_, wherein _Lewis_ XIV. caus’d a Way to be cut, which will be a lasting Monument to Posterity, of the Magnificence of that Great Prince. Those who are bound to _Toul_ cross the _Moselle_ in a Ferry-boat about a League on this side that Town, to which they arrive over a pretty large Plain. The Learned give a very ancient Original to the City of TOUL; for they pretend it was first founded by _Tullus Hostilius_ King of the _Romans_: But you may believe as much of this as you please. All that I can say of the Town, after having view’d it well, is, that ’tis very ill built, and not worthy of the Attention of the Curious. ’Tis a Bishopric Suffragan of _Triers_, and one of the three Bishoprics of _Lorrain_ that were yielded to _France_.

From _Toul_ I traveled to BAR-LE-DUC, the Capital of the Duchy of _Bar_. This Duchy is dependant on the Crown of _France_, tho’ ’tis part of the Dominions of _Lorrain_, and is under the Jurisdiction of a Parliament. The Dukes of _Lorrain_ were formerly oblig’d, either in their own Person, or by an Envoy, to perform Homage to the King of _France_, upon the Death either of a King, or of a Duke; which Obligation was chang’d, or rather limited, during the Regency of the Duke of _Orleans_, in a Journey which the Duke and Duchess of _Lorrain_ made to _Paris_ in 1718, when it was regulated, _That a Duke of +Bar+ should be oblig’d to pay Homage but once in his Life to a King of +France+; but that he should pay it in Person_. This Convention was register’d in the Parliament of _Paris_. But this was not the only Advantage which the Duke reap’d from his Journey; for the Regent, at the Request of his Sister, restor’d a great number of Villages to him that ought to have been restor’d to the Duke of _Lorrain_ at the Peace of _Ryswic_, and which the Ministry of _France_ had thought fit to keep.

From _Bar-le-Duc_ to CHALONS, ’tis a wild desert Country, yet very fruitful in Corn. The Roads are detestable if it rains ever so little; which added to the length of the Post-Stages, renders it a very disagreeable Journey. They say ’twas in these Fields that the King _Meroveus, Aëtius_ General of the _Romans_, and _Theodoric_ King of the _Visigoths_, fought so bloody a Battle in 451, with _Attila_ King of the _Huns_, that they kill’d two hundred thousand of his Men. But this is a Fact which I will not warrant. The Situation of _Chalons_ is very advantageous. The River _Marne_ which runs into the _Seine_ almost at the Entrance of _Paris_, is a great Convenience for the Merchants of that City. This City is in _Champaigne_, and its Bishop has the Title of _Count and Peer of_ France. The ancient Counts of _Champaigne_ resided here, and the Palace they liv’d in is still to be seen. The Parliament of _Paris_ was transferr’d hither in 1592; and there that illustrious Assembly pass’d that famous Arrêt against the Pope’s Legate, and the League, which under the Pretence of Religion tended to deprive _Henry_ III’s lawful Successor, _Henry_ IV. of the Crown of _France_.

Several most illustrious Marriages have been celebrated in the City of _Chalons_. 1. That of _Philip_ of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. 2. That of _Lewis_ Dauphin of _France_ Son of _Lewis_ XIV. with _Anne-Christina-Victoria_ of _Bavaria_, on the 7th of _March_ 1680: And finally, the Marriage of _Lewis_ Duke of _Orleans_, Son of the Duke Regent, to _Augusta-Maria-Johanna_ of _Baden_, on the 13th of _July_ 1724.

There’s not one considerable Place all the way from _Chalons_ to _Paris_. I pass’d thro’ CHATEAU-THIERRY, which is a Duchy that was given to M. _de Bouillon_ in Exchange for the Principality of _Sedan_; with this Clause nevertheless, that the King shall keep the Sovereignty of it. The _Marne_ runs at the Foot of this Town.

Ten Leagues from hence there’s the City of MEAUX, which is the Capital of _Brie_, with the Title of a Bishopric. But neither in the Church nor Town did I see any thing remarkable. The Suburbs are very fruitful, and the Neighbourhood of _Paris_ gives the Inhabitants an Opportunity of putting off their Commodities to Advantage.

’Tis but a few Hours Journey from _Meaux_ to PARIS in the direct Road. But I went some Leagues out of the way to see M. _de N----_, at his Seat at _C----_, near _Fontainbleau_, and after having spent some days there very pleasantly, we travell’d together to _Paris_. When we had pass’d the Time that was necessary to discharge the Obligations of Friendship and Decency, I reflected on what was the real Motive of my Journey; which, as I have had the Honor to tell you, was to put my self into the Hands of some able Surgeon. The Man to whose Care I committed my self was the famous _La Peronie_, who perform’d the Operation upon me with the utmost Skill, yet I suffer’d extreme Pain. During my Illness, which was of some Continuance, my Friends, who were my faithful Companions, were so good as to inform me of every thing that pass’d; and if it had been lawful to have betray’d them, or if I had been in any Post under the Government, I might perhaps have made some Discoveries to the Duke Regent, which would have been to his advantage, and enabled him to stifle that Flame at its first breaking out, which indeed he extinguish’d afterwards, tho’ it was perhaps owing as much, if not more, to his good Fortune, than to his Prudence.

_Paris_ was at that time in a Crisis, when it dreaded a Minority as troublesome as that of _Lewis_ XIV. Every body was dissatisfy’d. There was a loud Clamor against the Royal Bank. And the Government-Bills were a fresh Subject of Complaint; for tho’ they were establish’d at the Beginning of the Regency, with a Promise to keep up their Credit, yet there was a very great Loss by discounting them; and as the Public was overcharg’d with them, and as there is nothing which sits so uneasy on People as their Loss, every one gave public Vent to his ill Humor. At this same Juncture the Duke Regent was afflicted with sore Eyes, which indanger’d his Sight. I was assur’d that the Chancellor said to some People in Confidence, _That ’twas absolutely necessary to think of proper Measures for transferring the Regency to another Person, in case that Prince should happen to be blind_: And they say that ’twas for this Expression that he lost the Seals, which were taken from him the 28th of _January_ 1718. When M. _de la Vrilliere_ Secretary of State went to him to demand them, the Chancellor resign’d them immediately, saying, _That he restor’d them to his Royal Highness with more Pleasure than he took them_. At the time that they were brought to the Regent the Duke _de Noailles_ was with him, who being more than ordinary surpriz’d to see the Seals, because he knew nothing of the Chancellor’s Disgrace, could not help asking the Regent, _What he was going to do with the Seals?_ To which that Prince made Answer, _That he design’d them for M. +d’Argenson+ Lieutenant of the Police_. The Duke being dissatisfy’d with this Change, desir’d the Regent’s Leave to retire, which was granted him with more Readiness than he desir’d.

The Seals were given upon the same day to M. _d’Argenson_. The Regent himself sign’d the Patent, and the Grant of the Great and Little Commissions; and in the Afternoon the new Minister took the usual Oath to the King; and at the same time the Duke Regent declar’d him Chief of the Council of the Finances. The Disgrace of the Chancellor made the Parliament uneasy, and occasion’d fresh Murmuring among the People; the rather because ’twas reported, that his Royal Highness ow’d him a Grudge for his Refusal to sign certain Edicts which were not lik’d by the Parliament.

While _Paris_ was in such a Ferment, there was some Commotion in _Bretagne_. The Payment of the Free Gift being demanded of the States then assembled, they made answer, _That they could not grant it till they had first examin’d their Funds. They intended_, they said, _to regulate their Finances, which were very much disorder’d_. This Delay was look’d upon as an open Rebellion, and at the fourth Assembly they receiv’d Orders to separate. This put them quite out of Temper, and the Nobility deputed four of their Body to Court to present his Royal Highness a long Memorial, in which they demonstrated how impossible it was for their Province to pay the Free Gift at that instant. They complain’d of the Invasion of the Privileges of a Province which had only submitted to _France_ upon condition that they should be sacredly preserv’d. They concluded with praying his Royal Highness to grant them, at least, some time longer. _We flatter our selves, Sir_, said they, in the close of their Memorial, _that a Delay of a few days, contrary indeed to an ill Custom, but agreeable to ancient Possession, will not give your Royal Highness the worse Opinion of a Nobility which is so much devoted to you, and to which you have declar’d your Good-will_.

The Regent made answer to the Deputies, _That they must obey and pay, and that then they would see what could be done_. This Answer did not satisfy the uneasy _Bretons_, and the Parliament of the Province sent their Deputies to _Paris_. When they were admitted to the King’s Audience, M. _de Blossac_, who was their Spokesman, made much the same Representation as the Deputies of the Nobility had done before. All the Answer they had was a Declaration from the King, by the Keeper of the Seals, who was present, _That the Privileges of their Province should not be infring’d_. The same Deputies presented a long Petition to his Majesty, wherein they discover’d not less Love and Respect to the King than Zeal for their Privileges, but still insisted on the Impossibility of paying the Free Gift so soon. These Remonstrances, however, were as ineffectual as those of the States; and the Regent, who was resolv’d to be obey’d, made use of his Authority, by banishing the most mutinous of the Gentry from the Province, and others of ’em he caus’d to be summon’d to _Paris_, as well as several of their Members of Parliament, in order to give an Account of their Conduct.

Such, _Madame_, was the State of Affairs when I arriv’d at _Paris_. There was no Talk of any thing but Disturbances, and every thing seem’d to tend to a Revolt. The Duke Regent, in order to obviate any Enterprize of that sort, thought fit to secure the Soldiery in his Interest; and for this end he caus’d them to be paid punctually, gave Gratuities to the Officers, and to put Feathers in their Caps he made a numerous Promotion of the Knights of St. _Lewis_. There was a Creation of about four hundred in a few days, so that go where one would, there was nothing to be seen but the Crosses of St. _Lewis_. It were to be wish’d that the Species had been as common, but of this there was less Probability than ever. The Regent had just undertaken a general Recoinage of the Money, which seem’d to be a Thing of great Consequence to private People. His Royal Highness caus’d the Edict for this purpose to be register’d, and foreseeing that the Parliament would not come into his Measures, he caus’d the same to be publish’d by the Officers of the Mint. The Parliament was stung to the quick by the Publication of this Edict, and pretended that, in order to its being register’d, it ought to have been first communicated to them. The Chambers met upon this Occasion, and ’twas agreed that all the Sovereign Courts mould be invited to join with the Parliament in an Affair of such Importance.

_M. L. C. P. P. D. L. C. D. A._ when the Invitation was sent to his Company, took the advantage of it to make his court to the Regent, and went and inquir’d at the Royal Palace how he had best act. The Regent took this well at his hands, and his Royal Highness sent an immediate Prohibition to the Court of Aids, the Chamber of Accounts, and the Officers of the Mint to take any notice of the Parliament’s Invitation.

Nevertheless the Parliament still continu’d its Assemblies, and sent a Deputation to the Royal Palace, confiding of the First President, the President _d’Aligre_, and several Counsellors, to engage the Regent to revoke the aforesaid Edict; and they represented in a very long Discourse, _That the Rise of the Species could not but be prejudicial to the_ French _and profitable to Foreigners, who would get sixty Livres by a Mark of Silver, which intrinsically would not be worth twenty five Livres; and that this would circulate an infinite number of counterfeit Species in the Kingdom, considering the immense Profit that Foreigners would make by it_. They then complain’d of the Edict’s being register’d at the Court of the Mint, and not in the Parliament, to whom it ought, at least, to have been communicated. The Duke Regent made answer to the Deputies, _That he did not think he ought to send the last Edict to the Parliament, because the Court of the Mint was establish’d a superior and competent Court in Matters of that kind; that there had been no Edict sent to Parliament concerning the Mints, since the Year 1659, except one which was sent thither in 1715, out of pure Respect to that Company; that as to the Inconveniencies, he had maturely weighed them, but that he could not excuse himself from issuing the Edict, and that as to the Suspension of the Edict, ’twas not to be thought of, the Work being so far advanc’d, and a great Quantity of Species already given out, besides Debts that must necessarily be paid off._

The Parliament not being satisfy’d with this Answer, there was another Assembly, to the Number of 165 Members, next day, _viz._ the 20th of _June_, from 8 o’clock in the Morning till 2 in the Afternoon, when they pass’d an Arrêt, by which it was agreed to make most humble Remonstrances to the King to obtain Letters Patent for censuring the last Edict of the Mint, not register’d in Parliament, as prejudicial to the King, to Trade, to the Government, and to the Fortunes of private People; that in consequence thereof all Persons should be prohibited to receive the new-coin’d Species, and to make Payments in any other Species than those which had their Currency, by virtue of the Edict of 1715, and all Notarys should likewise be prohibited to pass any Act for Payments or Reimbursements made with the new Species. This Arrêt was set up in Writing within the Palais or Parliament-House, and the Parliament took care to have several written Copies of it dispers’d, because of the Prohibition which their own Printer was laid under, not to commit it to the Press.