Chapter VIII: Part 8

The same Night the Duchess of _Shrewsbury_ was with the King at Supper, where she was plac’d in the Rank of the Duchesses, exactly behind the Duke of _Berry_. She talk’d a great deal to this Prince, tho’ she had only a Glimpse of him once before at the Duchess of _Berry_’s Apartment. All the Supper-time she did nothing but twitch him by the Sleeve, to advise him not to eat so much. Every body was very much surpriz’d to see this Familiarity of her’s; and I observ’d that the Duke of _Berry_ was not a little confounded at it. I forgot to mention one Circumstance wherein I thought the King was over and above polite. As he came to the Table he pass’d by the Duchess of _Shrewsbury_, without seeing her; but just as he was going to sit down, M. _de Livry_ the Chief Steward acquainted him, that the Ambassadress of _England_ was come to his Supper. Upon this, the King return’d that instant to the Place where she was, and said to her, _That he had pass’d her without saluting her, because he did not see her; and that, he thought she was so fatigu’d with the Visits she had made in the Day that she was retir’d_. The King also desir’d her to go and repose her self; but she made her Excuse and said, _That ’twas impossible to have the Honor of paying Duty to so great a King as his Majesty, and to complain of Fatigue_.

The Duchess of _Shrewsbury_ was much of the same Temper as her Lord the Ambassador: She did not care for expensive Living. I remember that one day when I was at the Palace of _Soissons_, where she lodg’d, the Duchess _de ----_, who was a very gay Lady, wou’d fain have engag’d the Ambassadress to give a Ball: for this purpose she signify’d what a general Melancholy there was all over _France_, on account of the Death of the Princes, and a War of several years continuance; and said, every body expected that the Duke of _Shrewsbury_, who was come over to _France_ to bring Peace, would also be inclinable to procure the Return of those Pleasures which so many Calamities had banish’d. But it all avail’d nothing; for the Ambassadress made answer to the Duchess, that she should be very glad to see a general Mirth at _Paris_; and that she thought the Duke of _Shrewsbury_ had brought the _French_ such important News, as wou’d have put an end to all Sadness for the past Misfortunes, without expecting him to procure other Pleasures. ’Twas to no purpose therefore to insist any longer on a Ball from that Quarter.

You will undoubtedly be surpriz’d, Madame, when you hear who was the Person that gave the first Ball, instead of the Ambassador of _England_. ’Twas I that reviv’d _Paris_ out of that fatal Lethargy, into which it seem’d to be fallen. I gave a Ball at _Carneaux_, or rather _Mesdames de la M----_ _D----_ and _de V----_ gave it for me. These Ladies having in form desir’d me to give a Ball, I immediately excus’d my self, on the consideration that as I was a Stranger it did not become me to set a Pattern for Entertainments, especially for a Peace which could be of no farther Advantage to me, than as it would indeed enable me to live more to my Satisfaction, in a Country where it had been long wish’d for. Moreover, there were other Reasons much of the same nature as those that govern’d the Duke of _Shrewsbury_, which made me grudge the Expence of a Ball that I foresaw would be very chargeable. My Arguments had some weight with the Ladies; but a Ball they were resolv’d to have, and therefore they made a Proposal to me, that if I would give them but ten Lewid’ors there should be a Ball, and I should have nothing else to do but to give out at the Opera and the Comedy, that there would be a Ball such a day at _Carneaux_. This I did not fail to do, and wherever I came I found People very well inclin’d to be present at the Assembly. The Ladies on their part hir’d the great Hall of the _Carneaux_, which they caus’d to be very finely illuminated, and having provided a very good Concert of Music there, they caus’d the Ball to be open’d by their Waiting-Women and Valets de Chambre. I supp’d with the Ladies that Evening, and ingenuously own’d to them that I did not very well know what Effect a Ball of that sort would have at _Paris_. After a good deal of joke upon it we went thither as soon as ever we had supp’d, and I confess that in my Life I never saw more Maskers. They crouded one another from the very Gate of the Court into the Hall, where the People were ready to faint for the very Heat, and did not know whom to apply to for a drop of Water: Every body rav’d against the Ball, and against the Person that gave it. But by good luck they did not know whom they were oblig’d to for such an Entertainment. Mean time I had the Precaution to provide some Refreshments for the Ladies in my Company, and they were not ill bestow’d. This Ball drew me in to give ten or a dozen other Entertainments of the like kind, and altogether as unprovided of Refreshments. Yet notwithstanding the general Thirst complain’d of for want of Liquor, and the Curses that I heard them utter against the _Undertaker_, there was always a vast Croud of Masqueraders.

Thus, Madame, did I pass my time at _Paris_, I kept the greatest and the gayest Company, and I had pretty good Fortune at Play, which, together with what was remitted to me from home, put me in a Condition to live there like a Prince. I made fresh Acquaintance every day, and they gave me fresh Pleasures, till I receiv’d News which troubled me very much, _viz._ the Death of our King _Frederic_ I. which happen’d on the 15th of _February_ this Year, and was occasion’d by one of the saddest Accidents that could have fallen out. ’Twas the Queen herself who in one of those Vertigo’s, to which she had been for some time past subject, frighten’d the King so that he never recover’d it. It happen’d thus:

The Queen had for a long while given herself up to more than ordinary Devotion, and to a rigid Life not very agreeable to her natural Temper. But the Princess thought ’twas the best Course she could take, to stop the Mouths of those who had been so audacious as to give out that before her Marriage she was not always the Fondest of Retirement. The recluse and self-denying Life she led after Marriage, made her subject to Vapors, which ended in Frenzy, the Fits whereof were terrible. The King was not acquainted with her unhappy Disorder for a long time, till at last the Queen being one day in a more outragious Fit than ordinary, was so strong as to get loose from the Ladies that had the Care of her Person, and being but half dress’d, with her Hair dishevel’d, she went thro’ a private Gallery to the King’s Apartment. As she enter’d it she broke a Glass-Door, by which she cut both her Hands and Arms; and in this bloody pickle rush’d in upon the King like a Fury, and abus’d him with such Reproaches as would never have enter’d into the head of the poor Princess, if she had been well. The King, who was at the same time somewhat indispos’d, was taking a Nap in an easy Chair; but he started out of his Sleep, and imagin’d himself in the hands of a Ghost, every thing contributing to confirm him in that Notion. For the Queen having her Hair flying about her Temples, and no Clothes on but an Under-Petticoat, and a quilted Waistcoat of _Marseilles_ Linnen, and her Arms and Face being moreover of a Gore-Blood, the King fancy’d her to be the _White Woman_[42], and did so much believe that this Apparition was a certain Presage of his approaching Dissolution, that it threw him the same Instant into a Fever, which oblig’d him to take to his Bed, and he never recover’d it. This Prince lay ill for near six Weeks, during which he had the Consolation to see how dear he was to his Subjects; for one day as he thought himself a little better, so that the Physicians began to have hopes of his Recovery, he caus’d himself to be carry’d towards a Window, from whence he saw the whole Square full of People, who were offering up Vows to Heaven for his Life. This was so moving a Scene to him, that the generous Prince could not refuse a Tribute of Tears for the Tenderness of his People. But their Prayers were not heard; and his Majesty died at _Berlin_ with a Constancy and Courage worthy of him, after having given excellent Instructions to his Son the Prince Royal.

This young Prince was heartily griev’d for the Death of the King his Father, and as soon as he had receiv’d the first Homages of the Margraves who were the late King’s Brothers, and of the whole Court, he shut himself up in his Apartment where he abandon’d himself to that Lamentation which he had reason to make for the Loss he had sustain’d. The Person that notify’d his Death to the Courtiers who crouded the Apartments, was M. _de Printz_, the Grand Marshal. They say, that when this Nobleman made his appearance to proclaim the melancholy News, it so seiz’d him that he could only say, _The King, the King, the King!_ his redoubled Sighs discovering the rest that his Tongue had not power to declare.

The King’s Funeral Obsequies were very magnificent. In the Streets, from the Palace to the place of Interment, several Regiments of Soldiers were drawn up in a Line on each side. The new King accompany’d the Convoy, and when the Corpse was deposited in the Royal Vault he went out of the Church, and mounting on horseback put himself at the Head of the Troops which made three Discharges of small Arms, and at the same time the Cannon were fir’d from the Ramparts. Thus, Madame, were the last Devoirs paid to _Frederic_ our First King.

As to the Queen, the Physicians were of Opinion that her Native Air would be of service to her, and therefore she was carry’d to her Mother’s Seat at _Grabau_ in _Mecklemburg_, where she still remains, but without any Hopes as yet of her Recovery.

After the Death of _Frederic_ I. the King his Son dismiss’d the whole Court, the three Companies of Life-Guards were broke, and the Guard of the hundred _Swiss_ sent home to their own Country: In short, every thing assum’d a new Face. I saw, and was really mortify’d to see, that there was nothing more for me to hope for in my own Country. Nevertheless, tho’ I thought I should have broke my Heart the first Moment that I receiv’d the melancholy News, my Sorrow was of no long duration. I had not, indeed, a very splendid Fortune to be my Comfort, but I was so young that I presum’d to think I should never come to want. Besides, my Birth was some Relief to my Mind; and to tell you the plain truth of the matter, as Things stood with me at that time, I was quite in love with _Paris_, which was reason good enough why I should not devote myself long to Melancholy.

Happening to be at the Fair of _St. Germain_, I there contracted Love for another Mistress. I had no reason to be asham’d of the choice I then made, because I might have hop’d to have been possess’d of every thing that was capable of fixing a Man of Gallantry. I abandon’d my self intirely to this new Amour, and as I was naturally fond of Expence, I laid out such a Sum that all my Friends were startled at it. My Equipages, Clothes, Liveries, _&c._ were all of the utmost Magnificence, and the frequent Presents that I made were very rich. But I was soon reduc’d to a Necessity of making very serious Reflections upon my past Conduct; tho’ I had no body to blame but myself; for as to Mademoiselle _de S----_ (which was the Name of the Angel I ador’d) she would certainly have been well enough pleas’d with a Lover less profuse, so that with a little Oeconomy I might have made a gay Figure at _Paris_: But my new Passion would not suffer me to think so close of my Finances, which were now so much disorder’d that I saw no Remedy, except to return to my own Country: But I was so uneasy to think of going away, that I was very loth to fix on a day for my Departure. Mean time my dear Mistress and her Mother both press’d me with Tears in abundance to undertake a Journey so necessary; the one wishing it for my own sake, and the other for the sake of her Daughter; for the good Mother was as eager after Money, as the Daughter was disinterested. At length the melancholy Day being come, I set out from _Paris_ without bidding Farewel to any one Friend whatsoever except _Madame_, and the Duke of _Orleans_, because I hop’d to be back again speedily. I left all my Servants behind, except only one Domestic who was privy to all my Affairs.

The Day that I set out I arriv’d about five o’clock in the Evening at _Roye_ in _Picardy_, where I was told I could not proceed farther for want of Post-Horses, the Duke of _Ossuna_ who was gone Ambassador of _Spain_ to the Treaty at _Utrecht_, having taken them all up. I resolv’d therefore to go on with those that brought me to _Roye_. I halted at very sad Quarters, at a place betwixt _Roye_ and _Peronne_. The first thing I did was to go to Bed, and really need enough I had of Rest; for my Head was so confus’d with a thousand different Thoughts, that I felt my Brains work almost as if I had been light-headed. But when I was in Bed ’twas much worse with me, I still indulg’d Melancholy. One while I wanted to go back again to _Paris_, whither my Love call’d me strongly. On the other hand, I was sensible of the sad Necessity of pursuing my Journey. In short, Swarms of different Inclinations succeeded each other; but at last, after a long debate with my self, I resolv’d to return to _Paris_. The time when I made this noble Resolution was about two o’clock in the Morning. I got up that Moment, and call’d for my Valet. As he lay in another part of the House which was separate from my Apartment, I thought ’twas better to go my self and awake him, than to lose my time in calling for him. I went out of my Chamber accordingly, but as ill luck would have it, I had not observ’d, or rather the confusion I was in made me forget that my Chamber-Door open’d into a Gallery that run round the House. This Gallery was so lately built that they had not time to put Rails to it, so that before I had gone two steps I had the finest tumble that ever I made in my Life. I fell from the Gallery into the Yard, and by good luck upon a heap of Dung, otherwise I might have been wounded, if not kill’d; so that all the harm I had was the surprize to find my self sinking in a Matrass as offensive as ’tis possible to conceive. My greatest perplexity was then to contrive how to get out of it, and to find the way back to my Chamber: But the Night was so dark, and I was so little acquainted with the House where I lodg’d, that I despair’d of getting out without Help; I began then to call out lustily for my Valet. But the Rascal never heard me, and indeed I was inform’d soon after, that he had been drunk, so that his Liquor had plung’d him into a profound Sleep. Seeing that I had to do with one that was as deaf as a Post, I thought fit to call out aloud for _Mary_, _Catherine_, _Joan_, and other Names, hoping that there was some Servant-Maid in the House, whom one at least of these Names would fit: Nor was I deceiv’d, for one of the Maids came to my Assistance, but the Wench taking me for a Spirit ran away in an instant, with a great Cry of _Jesu-Maria_. I was then terribly mortify’d: At this rate I plainly saw I should be forc’d to spend the rest of the Night in the Dunghill, and to wait with patience till the whole Family was risen. What made me the more apprehensive of the Consequences of this Disaster was, that tho’ we were got into the Summer Season, yet the Nights were cold, and I had nothing over my Shirt but a Taffeta Night-Gown. I began again therefore to call and baul so loud, that at length some of the Family ran out to see what was the matter; but like the Servant-Maid they all took me for a Ghost come to haunt the House, and were afraid to come near me. At length, all this Noise awak’d my Valet, who ran out in his Shirt. He imagin’d at first that there had been a Design to murder me, but when I bid him put the Horses in my Chaise, he thought I was crazy; and indeed, I was pretty far gone that way. I repeated my Order to get my Chaise ready, that I might be gone that instant. My Valet, who had scarce recover’d from the Surprize he was in at my giving such an Order, said, _Alas, Sir, be easy; ’tis but two o’clock in the Morning yet, at five you shall be gone._ I told him, that he was a Fool, and that go I would. But he, like other Skipkennels who are apt to be fancy if their Masters treat them with any degree of Familiarity, refus’d point-blank to obey me. He said that I had no Consideration, that because I could not sleep my self I hinder’d others from sleeping; that I roll’d along the Day in an easy Chaise, whereas he rode generally upon very sorry Horses; that in short he wanted Rest, and that he would not set out till he had two Hours more Sleep, and had a good Breakfast. I was like to have been in a Passion, but saw ’twas to no purpose, and therefore we split the Difference; he compounded with me not to go to Bed again, and I gave him leave to take his Breakfast. When he thought fit to make an end, I got into my Chaise, and order’d the Postillion to strike into the Road for _Paris_. Then my Valet imagin’d indeed that I was crack-brain’d; he said I was wrong, and that we must turn into the Road to the _Netherlands_. I order’d him to hold his tongue, and go on. The poor Boy being confirm’d more and more in his Notion that I was Kite-headed, was wonderful uneasy, and at every Stage came with a sorrowful Countenance to the side of my Chaise to know how I did, and if I wanted any thing. At length I arriv’d at _Paris_, where all that knew of my Departure were startled to see me return’d so soon. I feign’d my self very much out of order, and that I came back again for fear of a Fit of Sickness, in which case I chose to be at _Paris_ rather than any where else. But no body would believe me, for they thought that some Love-Affair at heart was the sole cause of my returning in such a hurry. I stay’d three Days at _Paris_, but did not go once to _Versailles_ for fear of _Madame_, who was a Princess that did not love such Frolics, and I for my part did not love Reprimands, and therefore I thought it best to keep out of her way. Mean time the very same reason that determined me the first time to take a Journey to my own Country still subsisted, and at last I quitted _Paris_ in good earnest, tho’ I was resolv’d to be absent as little a while as possible.

I went the common Road to _Brussels_, and from thence through _Breda_ and _Gorcum_, to _Utrecht_; having a desire to see in what state the Congress was, which was then held at that place.

BREDA, which is a Place of Strength, situate on the River of _Mercke_, is part of _Dutch Brabant_, and one of the most considerable Towns in the _Netherlands_. This City and its Territory has the Title of a Barony, and has had several Masters. The last Owners of it were the Princes of _Nassau_, who acquired it in 1404, by _Eagelbert_ of _Nassau_’s Marriage with _Joan_ the only Daughter of the Lord of _Leck_, who was Sovereign of _Breda_. _Henry de Nassau_ founded the Castle in this Town, and the Tomb of _René_ is still to be seen in the Collegiate Church of St. _Peter_, which was founded about the Year 1303. This City suffer’d very much towards the latter end of the sixteenth Century, during the Wars for Religion. ’Twas at first seiz’d by the Confederates, who form’d the Republic of the United Provinces. The Prince of _Parma_ took it from them the 18th of _June_ 1581; but Prince _Maurice_ of _Orange_ made himself Master of it in 1590, by means of a Boat laden with Turf, under which he had caus’d about threescore Soldiers to be conceal’d, who made themselves Masters of the Castle, and thereby gave the Prince an Opportunity to take the Town by Capitulation. They tell a very remarkable Story of one of the Soldiers that was hid in that Boat, _viz._ That having a Necessity of coughing, he desir’d one of his Comrades to kill him outright, for fear that his impertinent Cough should discover the Stratagem. This Soldier richly deserv’d to have his Name transmitted to Posterity; for sure a _Roman_ could not have said a more gallant Thing, and an Instance of inferior Courage to this would perhaps have been rewarded with a Statue. Some Years after the Reduction of _Breda_, the great _Spinola_ General of the _Spanish_ Forces, besieg’d and took it after a Siege, or rather Blockade of eleven Months. ’Twas a fourth time besieg’d by _Frederic-Henry_ Prince of _Orange_, who took it after a Siege of four Months, and then it came into the hands of the _Dutch_, who have remain’d Masters of it ever since, and have considerably augmented its Fortifications; and as the Place is situate in very Marshy Ground, they have erected Sluices there, by means of which they can easily lay all the neighbouring Country under Water. For the rest, this is not one of the best built Cities in the _Netherlands_, and were it not for its Ramparts would be a very inconsiderable Place. The King of _Prussia_, by virtue of his Pretensions to the Succession of _William_ III. King of _England_, adds to his Titles that of _Baron of Breda_.

Having pass’d through _Gorcum_, which I thought a Town of very little consequence, I came to UTRECHT[43], which is one of the most noted Cities in the _Netherlands_, and gives Name to one of the seven Provinces, whereof it is the Capital. It was formerly a Bishop’s See, and the Bishops were Sovereigns of the Province, and Princes of the Empire. The Dukes of _Brabant_ and _Cleves_, the Counts of _Holland_ and _Guelderland_, and other Sovereigns to the number of twenty-eight, were Feudataries to its Bishop. The Emperor _Charlemain_, that great Founder of Bishoprics, annex’d so Many Prerogatives to this with a View of engaging the Bishops to act with Zeal for Conversion of the _Pagans_ who possess’d a Part of the Neighbouring Countries. _Philip_ II. erected this Bishopric into an Archbishopric in favor of _Schenck_ of _Tautenbourg_; but he did not enjoy the new Dignity long, for at the same time that this Country revolted from _Spain_, the Protestant Religion was introduc’d into it, and the Archbishop was expell’d. _Henry_ of _Bavaria_ was the last Bishop who was Sovereign of this Country, but his Subjects rebell’d against him and turn’d him out. This Bishop implor’d the Protection of _Charles_ V. to whom with the Consent of his Clergy and States he transferr’d the Temporal Dominion of the Country in 1528, and from thence he was translated to the Bishopric of _Worms_. The famous Union of the seven Provinces, to which the Establishment of the Republic is owing, was concluded at _Utrecht_ the 13th of _January_, 1579.

The City of _Utrecht_ is famous also for the Birth of Pope _Adrian_ VI, in 1459. They say this Pontiff was of mean Extraction, and was only oblig’d to his own Merit for his Advancement. The Emperor _Maximilian_ trusted him with the Education of _Charles_ his Grandson. He was afterwards sent to _Spain_ with the Title of Ambassador to King _Ferdinand_, who gave him the Bishopric of _Tortosa_. Upon that Monarch’s Death he shar’d the Regency of _Spain_ with the Cardinal _Ximenes_, and afterwards remained sole Viceroy of that Kingdom. He was made a Cardinal the first of _July 1517_, by Pope _Leo_ X. and chose Pope the ninth of _January 1522_.

While I am thus making Digressions in speaking of the City of _Utrecht_, you will also permit me to tell you that this City gave birth to the famous _Anna-Maria Schuurman_, that learned Lady who spoke _Latin_, _Greek_, _Hebrew_, the _Syriac_, _Chaldee_, _Italian_, _Spanish_, and _French_ Languages as fluently as the _Low Dutch_, which was her Mother-Tongue. She also knew how to paint in Miniature, and to engrave both with the Graving Tool and the Diamond upon Copper and Glass. Queen _Christina_ of _Sweden_ did her the same Honor, as _Alexander_ formerly did to _Diogenes_, for she went to pay her a Visit, and was surpriz’d at the Beauty of her Performances. This most ingenious Artist of her Sex died in 1678, at 71 Years of Age.

_Balderic_ of _Cleves_ the fifteenth Bishop of _Utrecht_, caus’d this City to be encompass’d with Walls; and _Charles_ V. built its Castle, which has at present nine Bastions, two Half-moons, and a Hornwork. They say that the great Church dedicated to St. _Martin_, was built in the Year 630 by King _Dagobert_; and after it was destroy’d, together with all the other Buildings in the City by the _Normans_, _Adelbolde_ the 19th Bishop caus’d it to be rebuilt and consecrated in 1024, in presence of the Emperor _Henry_ II. and twelve Bishops. It was ruin’d a second time, but was magnificently rebuilt. There’s a very fine Tower at the Entrance 388 Foot high, from whence fifteen or sixteen Towns may be seen distinctly.

There’s a better Air at _Utrecht_ than in the other Towns of _Holland_, the Ground it stands on being much higher, and by consequence not so marshy. This Town, which is situate upon the old Channel of the _Rhine_, is incompass’d with a fine fruitful Plain, and has charming Walks in the Neighbourhood, which are not inferior to those at the _Hague_.

The _French_ were at one time Masters of this Place, but on the 13th of _November_ 1673, it reverted to its lawful Sovereigns. When I arriv’d here I heard that the Peace was just sign’d by the Plenipotentiaries of _France_ and _Spain_ on the one part, and by the Ministers of _England_, _Portugal_, _Prussia_, _Savoy_ and _Holland_, on the other part. The principal Conditions were, That _Philip_ V. should remain in possession of the Crown of _Spain_, on condition nevertheless that he should renounce the Succession to the Crown of _France_, for himself and his Descendants: That _England_ should have _Gibraltar_ in _Spain_, and _Port-Mahon_ in the _Mediterranean_: That _Dunkirk_ should be demolish’d: _France_, by the way, was very loth to consent to the ruin of a Place which had already cost her several Millions, and requir’d a considerable Expence moreover to demolish. The Elector of _Brandenburg_ was recogniz’d King of _Prussia_, both by _France_ and _Spain_, and had even the Title of _Majesty_ given him, which _France_ never us’d to allow to the Kings of _Denmark_ and _Poland_. To the King of _Prussia_ was also yielded what he before possess’d in _Spanish Guelderland_, as an Equivalent for the Principality of _Orange_, which that Monarch yielded to _France_. The Duke of _Savoy_ was own’d King of _Sicily_, and he obtain’d some Places in the _Milanese_. The King of _Portugal_ remain’d peaceable Possessor of the Conquests which he had made during the War. The _Dutch_ got least of all by the Peace, and perhaps they repented that they did not accept of the Terms offer’d them at _Gertruydenberg_.

As soon as I arriv’d at _Utrecht_, I did not fail to make a Visit to the Ambassadors of _Prussia_, who were the Count _de Denhoff_, the Count _de Metternich_, and the Marshal _de Biberstein_. They receiv’d me with all the Civility possible, and presented me to all the Foreign Ministers. I found at this City the Countess Dowager of _Wartemberg_, who was lately come hither. The Count her Husband, who died at _Francfort_, desir’d upon his Death-bed that his Corpse might be carried to _Berlin_, which was perform’d with a good deal of Pomp. They say, that the late King, who was very fond of him, as I have already had the Honor to mention to you, wou’d needs see his Funeral Convoy; and as it pass’d before the Windows of his Castle he could not refrain shedding Tears. Perhaps he then repented that he had disgrac’d that Minister on such slight Pretences; and perhaps too, the melancholy Spectacle put him in mind of that unavoidable Coast, on which both the Majesty of Kings, and the Magnificence of Courtiers, will at last be run ashore.

The Countess of _Wartemberg_ was more undaunted. She was far from indulging any mortifying Reflection; but on the contrary, was glad to find her self in possession of a very great Estate; and gladder still to think that she was uncontroulable. She left _Francfort_ where she had resided ever since her Husband’s Disgrace; and thinking that too melancholy a Place to spend her Life in, she made choice of the City of _Utrecht_, as the most gay of any that she knew. She soon had an Intrigue or two upon her hands; and when I arriv’d, I heard that the Chevalier _de B----_ was her Bosom Friend. This Gentleman was newly set out for _Versailles_, with a Commission to carry the News of the Peace. I was not much concerned whether I made any Visit to the Countess; for I observ’d that all of our Court who were then at _Utrecht_, were shy of her to such a degree, that I did not care to be the only one that shew’d any Regard for her. But tho’ I had resolv’d not to visit her, I happen’d to fall in her Way. This Lady had brought a _French_ Gentlewoman with her, whom I knew very well at _Berlin_; and as she had Wit at will, I had a mind to renew my Acquaintance with her, the rather because I had a Curiosity to know a little of the Countess’s History. The first time I paid her a Visit she made me an Offer to carry me to see the Countess of _Wartemberg_; which I refus’d in such a manner that she did not insist upon my going. But she thought fit to tell the Countess that I was lately come to _Utrecht_; that I had paid her a Visit; and that she thought I perfectly resembled the Chevalier _de B----_. There needed no other Motive to set the Countess agog to see me; and she desir’d her Gentlewoman to bring me to her. But notwithstanding all her Persuasion, I peremptorily refus’d it. At last, as I was making a Visit one day to the Gentlewoman, who should bounce into the Room where I was, but the Countess _de Wartemberg_. She said, that tho’ I scorn’d her so much as not to make her a Visit, she had resolv’d to come and see me. I was going to reply, but the Countess, without giving me time to speak, told me, that she thought me alter’d much for the better; that no two drops of Water were more like than I, and the Chevalier _de B----_; and that in short we perfectly resembled each other even in the Tone of our Voice: But by Madam _de Wartemberg_’s leave, there never were two People more unlike. The Knight Commander was a handsome well-set Man, which you know, Madame, is a Character I never had the Vanity to affect; and I thought every part of the Countess’s Compliment so extraordinary, that in truth, a Scholar just come from the College could not have been more dash’d than I was. I made an Answer, ’tis true, but to tell you frankly, I knew not what I said. I gave her my Hand, and led her to her own Apartment, where she still descanted upon the mighty Resemblance betwixt the Chevalier and me. In fine, I think I may venture to say, without giving my self an Air as if I was the Darling of the Fair Sex, and without passing in your Opinion for a Coxcomb, that ’twas my own fault I was not taken, in Body and Soul, for the Chevalier; but I was so fortunate as to be disintangled by a Valet de Chambre, who came to acquaint her of the Arrival of M. _Menager_ the third Plenipotentiary of _France_ at the Congress, to whom I had Obligations for bringing me out of this Scrape. This kind of Visit made me take proper Measures to prevent any more such, for the little time I had to stay in this City.

From _Utrecht_ I went to _Wesel_, and from thence thro’ _Westphalia_ to the Duchy of MAGDEBOURG. The City of this Name was formerly an Archbishopric, erected by the Emperor _Otho_ the Great in favor of the _Vandals_ newly converted, but by the Peace of _Westphalia_ the whole Country was seculariz’d with the Title of a Duchy, in favor of the _Brandenburg_ Family, in Exchange for that part of _Pomerania_ which was yielded to the _Swedes_. There are few Towns in _Germany_ that have suffer’d so many Revolutions as _Magdebourg_. This City was put under the Ban of the Empire in 1553, by _Charles_ V. for refusing Submission to his Orders, for it was then in open Rebellion, so that the Elector _Maurice_ of _Saxony_ was sent to reduce it. The Siege lasted a whole Year, the Elector not being very much in haste to push on the Conquest. As this War was undertaken purely for the Destruction of the Protestant Religion, which this City had embraced; the Elector, who was himself a Protestant, thought by spinning out the Siege to regain the good Opinion of those of his Religion, who were uneasy to see him support the Interests of the Emperor and the Catholics. The Elector however made them easy, by promising the Protestants of _Magdebourg_, that he would join them in the War against the Emperor, immediately after the Surrender of the Place. Matters were transacted on both sides with very great sincerity. The Place surrender’d, and the Elector entered it not as a victorious Prince, but rather as an Ally who brought Relief to it. He made use of the Garison to reinforce his Army, and then declar’d War against the Emperor, on pretence that the Religion and Liberty of _Germany_ were in danger.

A Change of this nature was so extraordinary, that the Emperor could not expect it: For this Prince had himself promoted the Elector of _Saxony_ to the Dignity he possess’d, after having depriv’d the unfortunate _Frederic_ of his Dominions; and for so considerable a Present he might very well hope the Elector would have made him grateful Returns. The Emperor therefore was so far from thinking himself oblig’d to be on his Guard for fear of Surprise, that he imagin’d himself in a State of perfect Security, when the Elector of _Saxony_ had like to have surpriz’d him at _Inspruck_ the Capital of _Tirol_. The Emperor knew nothing of the Plot, till he was on the point of being made Prisoner; and ’twas with much ado that he escap’d, for he was at that time ill of the Gout, and oblig’d to leave both his Equipage and Domestics behind him. He would upon this occasion have given the Prince _John-Frederic_ his Liberty, but this Prince was loth to abandon him in this Misfortune, and accompany’d him into _Carinthia_, twenty-eight Leagues from _Inspruck_, where the Emperor made his Retreat.

The City of _Magdebourg_ was a very great Sufferer in the War, which is commonly call’d, _The War of thirty Years_, because during that Term _Germany_ was ravag’d on all sides. _Tilly_ the Emperor’s General besieg’d it in 1631, when ’twas taken by Storm, and all the Inhabitants put to the Sword. A Fire also had a part in its Destruction, and committed such Ravage that _Magdebourg_, which was one of the finest Cities in _Germany_, was intirely reduc’d to Ashes. The Burghers indeed had no body but themselves to blame for their Misfortune, for General _Tilly_ would not have treated them so severely if they had not refus’d an advantageous Capitulation, of which he made them an Offer some days before the Storm.

But since this Town has been in the hands of the _Brandenburg_ Family, the Electors have taken care to fortify it so well, that it would now be a hard matter to take it. The late King caus’d a Citadel to be built here, which is separated from the City by the _Elbe_. The present King has added considerable Works to it, which are remarkably substantial and magnificent. His Majesty has also caus’d a very fine Arsenal to be built in the Great Square, which tho’ not very large, is stor’d with a considerable number of Cannon and other Arms. On the Right hand of this Square is the Great Church, formerly the Cathedral, a _Gothic_ Building, where meets the Chapter which is still subsisting, tho’ Protestant; and according to ancient Custom, none are admitted into it but Men of Quality.

The Situation of _Magdebourg_ is very fine, having an Outlet on all sides to spacious Plains, that are very fruitful in Corn. The _Elbe_, which, as I have said, separates the Citadel from the Town, renders its Commerce also very easy with _Hamburg_, _Saxony_ and _Bohemia_, for which reason several Merchants are settled here who have noble Houses. And since the King has transferr’d the Regency of the Country hither from _Hall_, the Town grows every day finer, so that it may now be reckon’d one of the most beautiful Towns in the two Circles of _Saxony_.

From _Magdebourg_ in my Way to _Berlin_ I pass’d thro’ BRANDENBURG, which is a City on the River _Havel_, that was built by M. _Branden_, a Prince of _Franconia_. ’Twas heretofore a Bishopric, but now the whole Country is seculariz’d, and makes a part of the _Marquisate_ of _Brandenburg_. Here is a considerable Trade, and the King keeps a Garison in it, consisting of a Battalion of the tall Grenadiers. You have so often seen the Regiment of which this Battalion is a part, that ’tis needless to commend it to you farther than to observe, that ’tis perhaps the finest Regiment in _Europe_.

I did not stay at _Brandenburg_, because I would be the sooner at BERLIN. On the day that I arrived there I was so tir’d with having walk’d all Day and Night, that I kept my Bed till the Evening, when I had the Honor to wait on the Queen, the King having been gone a few days before to _Potzdam_, Her Majesty kept her Chamber, and had not been out of it since her last Lying-in, when she was deliver’d of the Princess _Charlotta-Albertina_, who died the Year following on the 10th of _June_. I was so coldly receiv’d by her Majesty, that I had no reason to hope for favor at Court, or at least with her Majesty. But the Margravines receiv’d me with all the Civility possible. The Margravine-Dowager especially assur’d me that she would continue that Protection with which she had always honor’d me.

As to the City of _Berlin_, it had not yet dry’d up its Tears for the Loss it had lately sustain’d, by the Death of _Frederic_. ’Tis true the King his Son gave great hopes, but the thorough Change he had made in his Court, caus’d the late King to be lamented. The new Monarch thought of nothing but keeping up a numerous Army, and that he might do this without laying a Burden upon his Subjects, he dismiss’d all his Court, and the intire Houshold of the King his Father, so that there was nobody at Court but the Ministers. Most of the Persons of Quality who lived heretofore at _Berlin_, were retir’d either to their Estates or their Governments, which made the City a most melancholy Place to stay in, and all these Alterations convinc’d me that there was nothing for me to expect in this Country. I therefore resolv’d to settle all my Domestic Affairs with the utmost speed, designing to return forthwith to _Paris_. Before I went thither, I made a Trip to _Zell_, in order to examine the Accompts of a Person I had deputed as my Attorney to receive the Deeds of my Mother’s Estate. But to my sorrow, my Mother had by her Will devis’d the greatest part of her Estate to the Children she had by her former Husband, so that what I could lay claim to was far short of what I promis’d my self.

From _Zell_ I went to HAMBOURG[44], purely to see that City. I had travel’d thither once before, but was then so young that I was not in a Capacity to take notice of any thing in this City worthy of Remark. _Hambourg_, which is one of the best Towns in _Germany_, is a part of Lower _Saxony_, being situate upon the _Elbe_ a few Leagues from the Mouth of that River, which is a great Conveniency to its Trade. Before it was erected into a Republic ’twas a part of _Holstein_, on the Territory of which it was built; and therefore it had frequent Quarrels with the Dukes of _Holstein_, and the Kings of _Denmark_, who are the Sovereigns of _Holstein_. The latter, as well as the _Swedes_, have attempted several times to make themselves Masters of _Hambourg_, but have been repuls’d as often as they came before it: For this City is not easy to be reduc’d, because it has noble Ramparts and very strong Out-works, and it also takes care to be well provided with Artillery, and a good Garrison. Moreover, ’tis always sure of the Protection of the Families of _Brandenburg_ and _Brunswic_, it being so advantagiously situated, that ’tis the Interest of both, that no Power whatsoever should take it.

_Hambourg_ is also very considerable on account of the Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are almost all Merchants, and much of the Temper of the _Dutch_ Merchants, very greedy of Gain and thrifty. Their greatest Delight is so have Gardens at the City-Gates, pretty much in the Taste of those of _Holland_. The Wives of the great Merchants are as much confin’d at _Hambourg_, as the Women of Quality are at _Venice_, but I observ’d they were only pent up from Foreigners. A Man may pass his time very well in this City, where there are several Persons of Quality to see, who make their Visitors perfectly welcome. The Walks in and about this City are charming, and especially that on the Ramparts is a noble one, there being a double Row of Trees which forms an agreeable Covert, and from whence there’s a Prospect finely diversify’d by noble Houses, Gardens, Woods, Meadows, _&c._ in the midst of which one sees the Rivers _Elbe_ and _Alster_, which both together yield a charming View. The River of _Alster_ comes into the Town and forms a Basin very like a great Pond, which has a fine Kay on the sides of it planted with several Rows of Lime-Trees, between which there’s a very fine Walk.

Near _Hambourg_ lies the Town of ALTENA[45]. The King of _Denmark_ gave it this Name to banter the Deputies of _Hambourg_ who made Remonstrances to him against his building this Town too near to theirs, and in their Discourse to the King about the Town said several times, _Sie ist al te na_, which in the Language of the Country signifies, _it is too near_. The King taking particular Notice of the Monosyllables _al te na_, said to the Deputies that he could not excuse himself from carrying on the Town which he was building, and that all he could do to oblige them was to order it to be call’d by the Name of _Altena_, which they themselves had given it. And indeed, a more significant Name could not have been put upon this Town, for ’tis situate just at the Gates of _Hambourg_, and is a part of _Danish Holstein_. It was formerly a priviledg’d Place for Bankrupts, and for all that had committed any Crime in _Hambourg_. But the present King of _Denmark_, rather than this Town should continue any longer in the Enjoyment of a Privilege which fill’d it with Knaves and Vagabonds, delivers up Malefactors to the Magistrates of _Hambourg_ whenever they reclaim them.

_Altena_ is remarkable for the Multiplicity of Religions which are there publickly exercis’d. I believe, that excepting _Amsterdam_, there is not a Town in _Europe_ where there are so many Sects; but few of ’em are allow’d a Church. The Neighbourhood of this Town to _Hambourg_, and its Situation moreover upon the _Elbe_, does great Prejudice to that City. ’Tis now several years since _Altena_ was burnt by the _Swedes_, under the Command of the Count _de Steinbock_; when they scarce allow’d Time to the Inhabitants to make their Escape; so that they had the Grief to be Eye-Witnesses of the burning of their Houses and Goods, and several Old Men, and a number of Infants perish’d in the Flames. I found _Altena_ in that sorrowful State when I first went thither; but upon a Review of it since, I see that ’tis rebuilt in such a manner, that ’tis now a finer and more flourishing Town than ever. After four or five days Stay at _Hambourg_ I set out, and never did any body go off at a more proper Time; for in a few days after it, the Plague discover’d it self in the City; upon which it was shut up, and its Communication forbid with any other Place.

I return’d thro’ _Zell_, where I made no manner of stay, to AIX-LA-CHAPELLE[46], an Imperial City, on the Confines of the Duchies of _Juliers_ and _Limbourg_. ’Tis encompass’d with Mountains, which form so pleasant a Vale, that _Charlemain_ chose rather to reside at _Aix-la-Chapelle_, than in either of the many beautiful Cities which he conquer’d. This Emperor caus’d a Collegiate Church to be built here, in which his Tomb is still to be seen; and the Memory of that Prince is to this day held in great Veneration. On the Festival of St. _Charles_, there’s a solemn Procession here, in which the Effigies of that Monarch is carried with an Equipage which excites Laughter rather than Devotion. The Preacher’s Pulpit in this same Collegiate Church is inrich’d with Plates of Gold; and they say that the Branch which hangs down before the High Altar is of the same Metal. ’Tis in this Church that many Emperors have been consecrated; and several of the Imperial Ornaments are still kept there. The Emperor is born Canon of the Church of _Aix_, and takes the Oath as such on the Day of his Coronation.

Certain Reliques are preserv’d at _Aix-la-Chapelle_, which are shew’d but once in seven years; and then they are expos’d to View from the top of a Tower in the City, during which the People gaze at them on their Knees, in the Squares and Streets leading to the said Tower. This Ceremony was perform’d when I was at _Aix_ in 1713, at which time there was a Concourse to it of an incredible number of Pilgrims from _Hungary_, _Tirol_, and all the Provinces of _Germany_. Persons of superior Rank are allow’d the Liberty of going up to the top of the Tower where those Reliques are expos’d, and may look near to them, but must by no means touch them. Of all that I saw, I only remember a Smock, which they affirm was the Virgin’s: There were some spots on it, which they said were the Stains of the Milk with which she suckled the Savior of the World. This Shift seem’d to be quite seamless, and made of a sort of Stuff which I know not how to describe to you, for it was neither of Linnen nor Callico.

The City of _Aix_ is very famous for its hot Baths, and for the Waters that are taken there twice a year, _viz._ in _Spring_ and _Autumn_; at which two Seasons there’s a great Resort hither of Foreigners. The Waters are hot, and of a very unpleasant Taste, and they smell like a rotten Egg; for which reason People are loth to take them when they first come; but after they are us’d to it, they go down very well. The Baths especially are wonderfully good against the Contraction of the Sinews and against Wounds. Nor is there a Place where the Waters are us’d with more Conveniency, there being plenty of every thing that one wou’d wish for, and especially good Company; for _Brabant_, _Liege_, _France_, _Holland_ and _Germany_, lie so near to it, that there’s always a great many People here, and very good Diversion.

I set out from _Aix_ for PARIS, by the way of _Maestricht_ and _Louvain_; but as I travell’d Post thro’ these Towns, I shall reserve the Description of them to you, till such time as I make a longer stay in them. On my Arrival at _Paris_ I was deeper in Love than ever. I was receiv’d by my dear Mistress with such Tokens of Love, as gave me all the reason in the world to think, that I was the happiest Man living: And in reality I was so, because at that time I knew of no other Happiness than to be in her good Graces; yet my natural Levity made me soon think otherwise. I saw the Marchioness _de P----_; and I will frankly own to you, that all the Veneration I had for _S----_ abated. I thought then there was nothing to compare with the new Object of my Passion. _S----_ quickly perceiv’d my Inconstancy, and reproach’d me for it; but they were Reproaches unmix’d with Gall, and such as nothing but Love can inspire. The consequence was, that my Passion for her reviv’d; and upon this occasion I was made sensible, that a Flame not well extinguish’d is always apt to burst out again; and that there needs no great Compulsion to renew the Passion of Love. The Sentiments of the Man of Honor being join’d to those of the Lover, I ask’d my own Conscience what _S----_ had ever done to disgust me. And in fine, I gave Judgment against my self, that I could not without Ingratitude forsake so amiable a Mistress. I took care, therefore, to absent my self by degrees from the Marchioness _de P----_; and found it no very hard matter to stifle a Passion, which, to speak plainly, was but a sudden Flash.

While I staid at the Court of _France_, I saw the Ceremony of the double Marriage of the Duke of _Bourbon_ and the Prince of _Conti_, who married each other’s Sister. The Duke married _Mary-Anne_ of _Bourbon-Conti_, Sister to the Prince of _Conti_, who married _Louisa-Elizabeth_ of _Bourbon-Condé_, the Duke’s Sister.