Chapter V: Part 5

The Ducal Family of _Brunswic_ is intirely _Lutheran_; yet the late Duke _Anthony_ died a Catholic, to which Religion he was converted a little before his Death. The Enemies of his Reputation affected to give out, that Ambition was the motive of his entring into the Pale of the Church, and that the Bishopric of _Hildesheim_ or the Electorate of _Cologne_, which were both vacant at that time by the Elector’s being put under the Ban of the Empire, was the View of his Conversion: but ’tis easy to perceive that this Reproach is nothing but meer Calumny, if it be consider’d, that the Duke of _Brunswic_ consider’d only in that Quality had too high a Rank in the Empire to be flatter’d with the Episcopal or Electoral Dignity, especially at the Age of fourscore, and when he could not hope for Posterity to inherit either. ’Tis very certain that the Conversion of this Prince was the Effect of a long Examination which he had made of the Religion that he embrac’d, he having entertain’d Thoughts of it for several years. When he consented that his Grand-Daughter should be married to the Emperor, it was demanded of that Princess, that she should abjure the Religion in which she had been educated. There was at that time an Assembly of the ablest Divines in _Germany_, who agreed as the _French_ Ministers did when _Henry_ IV. consulted them about his Conversion, that Salvation was to be had in the Catholic Religion. This Confession of the Ministers was some encouragement to the timorous Princess, who being but young and very tender-conscienc’d, thought there was Danger in taking such a Step. The Duke, in order to reconcile her thoroughly to it, promis’d her to turn Catholic himself; and _Imhoff_ his Minister did the same. As the latter was a Man of good Sense, and moreover of great Probity, he had acquir’d his Master’s Confidence, and as Religion had for some time past the principal Share in their Conversation, _Imhoff_ after having weigh’d every thing well, could not deny, that the Catholic was the only true Religion; and he made his Abjuration of the Protestant, some time after the Princess. The Duke was a good while longer before he took this Step; for tho’ he was a real Catholic in his Heart, he was willing to prepare his Subjects for this Alteration by gentle means; but when he receiv’d a Letter from his Grand-Daughter, he made no longer Delay. This Princess arriving at _Barcelona_, and hearing that the Duke had not yet perform’d the Promise he made to change his Religion, she wrote a long Letter to him, wherein she let him know how uneasy she was, for fear that the Religion which he had advis’d her to chuse was not the true Religion, because he was so long in embracing it himself. Then the Duke declar’d himself, and convinc’d his Grand-Daughter, that not content with having procur’d her one of the principal Crowns in this World, he had also done his Endeavor to secure her another that was more glorious and more durable.

After the Duke had embrac’d the Catholic Religion, he caus’d a Church to be built at BRUNSWIC[21], which is a City but two small Leagues from _Wolfembuttle_, thro’ a very strait Road, lin’d on both sides with Trees. When I had taken a good View of all that was worth seeing at _Saltzdabl_, I came to this City, which I found did not come up near to the Notion I had of it; nevertheless ’tis the Capital of the Duchy of _Brunswic_. They say ’twas built _Anno_ 868, by _Bruno_ the Son of _Alphonsus_ Duke of _Saxony_, who call’d it after his own Name. It was afterwards very much enlarg’d by the Emperor _Henry_ the _Faulconer_. ’Twas formerly rank’d among the chief _Hanse_ Towns, and govern’d it self after the manner of a Republic, pretending to be independent of its Dukes, who always oppos’d it’s Liberty Sword in hand, and ’twas not without great difficulty that they brought it in Subjection to them. _Henry_ Duke of _Brunswic_, surnam’d the _Young_, besieg’d it three times, but always in vain. At length in 1617, the City was compell’d to perform Homage to Duke _Frederic-Ulric_, the then Regent. Nevertheless it preserv’d its Privileges, which still gave it an Appearance of Freedom till 1671, when _Rodolph Augustus_, Duke of _Brunswic-Wolfembuttle_, made himself absolute Master of it. Duke _Anthony-Ulric_ once had a Design to fortify this Place, and the Duke his Son seem’d at first to have the same Intention; but afterwards he chose rather to have noble Structures erected in it, amongst which there’s a very great Palace, where ten Sovereigns might lodge without incommoding one another. This Prince caus’d it to be built for the Duchess his Wife, in case she should survive him; and no Cost was spar’d to render it one of the richest and most magnificent Palaces that was ever seen, to the intent that the Charms of so fine a Habitation might contribute in some measure to make the Duchess more cheerful in her melancholy State of Widowhood; which indeed could not but be the more so to the Princess, because by losing her Husband, she must also lose her Sovereignty; for they had no Children, and the Duke was too old for them ever to expect any.

This is the only Palace in _Brunswic_ that is remarkable. The Duke of _Blankenbourg_’s, ’tis true, is very large, and has very fine Apartments, but is old, and has nothing extraordinary; it joins to the Church of St. _Alaise_, which is the principal Church, and the Place where several of the Dukes are buried. On the Square over-against the Church, there’s a Lion of Brass, on a very high Pedestal, representing that which they say was tam’d by the Duke _Henry_ surnam’d the _Lion_, to such a degree, that the terrible Animal follow’d him wherever he went; and even after the Duke’s Death and Interment in the Church of St. _Alaise_, the Lion went towards the Church Door, try’d to break it open, stay’d there in spite of all the Attempts to take him off, and died on the very Spot, for Grief that he had lost his Master.

I afterwards went to ZELL[22], and from thence to HANOVER. The first of these Towns is small, and has nothing remarkable. It was formerly the common Residence of the Dukes of _Zell_, who had a very commodious Castle in it; but since that Country devolv’d by Inheritance to the House of _Hanover_, there’s nothing remaining here but the Courts of Justice and the Regency.

HANOVER[23] is the Capital of the Electorate, and the Seat of the Electors. This Court was always one of the politest in _Germany_, especially during the Life of the late Princess _Sophia_, the Electoress Dowager and Mother. This August Princess, who was descended from the most illustrious Blood in _Europe_, was the Daughter of the unhappy _Frederic_, the Elector _Palatine_, and of the Princess of _England_, Daughter of K. _James_ I. by whom the Right of Succession to the Crown of _England_ devolv’d to the House of _Hanover_. This Princess, tho’ she was full Fourscore when I was at _Hanover_, labour’d under none of those Infirmities, which one would think to be inseparable from so great an Age: She was really a Prodigy for Vivacity and Memory; she spoke _French_, _English_ and _Italian_ as well as her Mother-Tongue, and had moreover a wonderful just way of Thinking, which she had taken the pains to cultivate by great Reading. This Princess had been the Mother of several Children, of whom there were then but three Princes surviving, _viz._ the eldest, who was then the Elector, and afterwards King of _Great Britain_; the second whose Name was Duke _Maximilian_; and the third the Duke _Ernest Augustus_, afterwards Bishop of _Osnabrug_ and Duke of _York_.

Of the Electoress’s three Sons, none but the Elector had any Children; and these are the Electoral Prince, now King of _England_, and the Princess Royal, now our Queen.

The Electoral Prince’s Family was more numerous. He has had a Son and several Daughters by the Princess of _Brandenburg-Anspach_. I had the Honor of waiting on the Princes and Princesses the very next day after my Arrival, and was received very graciously, especially by the Electoress Mother, who all the Time that I staid at Court, honor’d me with her special Protection.

I spent all the _Carnival_ time at this Court, where ’twas open’d on the 2d day of _January_ by a _French_ Comedy, after which there was Play and a Drawing-Room at the Electoress’s Apartment till ten o’clock at Night. Next day there was a Ridotto in imitation of that of _Venice_, that is to say, a public Ball, to which every body was admitted that had a Mask, but not with Arms. This Ball was held at the Town-House, every other day during the whole _Carnival_. In the same Room where the Ridotto was perform’d, they play’d at _Ombre_ and _Picquet_, and in another at _Basset_; there was a third Room in which the Tables were cover’d with a cold Treat; and next to this third Room there was a fourth, in which were distributed Coffee, Chocolate, Liquors, _&c._

I had a very great Share in all the Diversions of the _Carnival_, being then at an Age when nothing is so much minded as Pleasures; especially when a Person has Money enough to keep him from the Uneasiness, which is the necessary consequence of the want of that precious Metal. Of this I was now furnish’d with a handsome Stock, and therewith cut a very gay Figure; but was soon oblig’d to lessen my Expences, because nothing would serve me but I must try a fatal Experiment, in which I was bit. I had a mind to try Fortune at Gaming; and play’d at first with pretty good Luck; but afterwards the Chance turn’d, and I was soon in a very great Quandary what to do with my Person, being neither able to proceed in my Journey, nor return from whence I came; and much less to stay at _Hanover_, where I had always made some Figure. I then did what young Fellows us’d to do in such a Situation; that is to say, made several Bargains, but none to my Advantage. At last I was oblig’d to expose my Circumstances to my Mother, who was still my Guardian. I had much ado to get the Money of her that I wanted; but I wrote such moving Letters to her, that she was sensible at last that she was my Mother, and after having made me wait a little while, she was so good as to send me the necessary Sums.

This little Disorder in my Affairs happen’d at a very unseasonable Time: for the Electoress had been so kind as to get a Passport for me to go to _Paris_, by means of the late Madame of _France_; but as the same was only granted for two Months, ’twas impossible for me to make use of it, having been oblig’d to spend almost all that time in contriving Expedients to retrieve my Finances.

The Money that my Mother was so kind as to send me, put me again into a Condition of travelling. The Emperor _Joseph_’s Death happening at that time, I resolv’d to go and see the Election of a new Emperor. This great Prince died at _Vienna_, the 17th of _May_, at 32 years of Age and nine Months. He left the Imperial Throne vacant, but his other Crowns devolv’d by Hereditary Right to his Brother. As soon as that Emperor died, the Empress Mother assum’d the Government of his Hereditary Kingdoms and Dominions, in the Absence of the King her Son, to whom she sent an Express to carry the News, as she did also to each of the Electors. The _Saxon_ and _Palatine_ Electors, as Vicars of the Empire, took Care of the Government of it during the Inter-regnum; and the Elector of _Mentz_, as Great Chancellor of the Empire, wrote circular Letters (which are call’d Letters of _Intimation_) to invite the Electors to the Assembly that was to be at _Francfort_ for the ensuing Election.

As this Assembly was not to be till _August_, I went in the mean while to _Holland_. The first Town I pass’d thro’ after I left _Hanover_, was MINDEN, which is a Town upon the _Weser_, encompass’d with Walls, and defended by some Half-Moons, which nevertheless don’t hinder one’s seeing every thing that passes in the Square from a Hill that commands the Town, and from whence ’tis an easy matter to beat it to the ground. ’Twas formerly a Hanse Town, being a part of _Westphalia_, and had always the Title of a Bishopric, till the Treaty of _Munster_, when it was seculariz’d, and given to the Family of _Brandenburg_, who settled a Regency here. It always retain’d two Chapters, one of Canons, and the other of Canonesses, into which the Ladies must make proof of their Nobility to be admitted. The famous Count _Tilly_, General of the Imperial Troops, when he was pursuing _Maurice_ the Landgrave of _Hesse-Cassel_, attack’d and took this Place in 1626, when the General, exasperated with the Town, which tho’ extremely weak, refused to comply with the very advantagious Terms that he offer’d it, took it by Storm, and put near 3000 Men, Soldiers and Inhabitants, to the Sword.

As I proceeded, I passed thro’ HERVORDEN, which is an ill-built Town, in the County of _Ravensberg_. ’Tis an Imperial Town, and yet the King maintains a Garison in it. There’s a Chapter of Ladies, the Abbess of which is a Native Princess of the Empire; and indeed this is what the Town is most remarkable for, it being otherwise not very considerable any more than the Towns of LIPSTADT and HAM. These belong both to the King, of which the first is fortify’d, and Justice is therein administer’d, in the Name of the King and the Count _de la Lippe_, who has half of the Revenue. Every thing relating to the Fortifications or the Garison, is the King’s. The Baron _de Heiden_, General of the Horse, was Governor of it when I was there.

After having left these two Places, there is no considerable Town till we come to WESEL, which stands upon the _Rhine_, and is a part of the Duchy of _Cleves_. ’Tis now one of the strongest Places in _Europe_; for the King, who was about fortifying it when I was there, ordered that no Cost should be spar’d to carry the Works to the utmost Perfection. The Person he employ’d to direct them was M. _Bot_ a _Frenchman_, and Governor of the Place, one of the ablest Engineers now living. When I had rested a few days at _Wesel_ I fell down the _Rhine_ to _Nimeguen_, and by the way saw EMMERICK and SCHENK. _Emmerick_ is a Hanse Town upon the _Rhine_, which was taken by the _French_ in 1652, and restor’d two years after to the Elector of _Brandenburg_. _Schenk_, which is the first place in _Holland_, stands at the Point where the _Rhine_ divides it self into two Branches, one of which is call’d _Vahal_, and the other retains the Name of the _Rhine_. This Place was built in 1586, by _Martin Schenk_ a _Gueldrian_, from whom it took the Name.

NIMEGUEN[24] is built upon a Hill which rises by degrees to the very Centre of the Place, and is part of the Province of _Guelderland_. This Town is famous for having been taken and re-taken in the War the _Dutch_ carry’d on with _Spain_ for preserving their Liberty. That Crown was oblig’d at last to yield it to the _Dutch_, from whom _Lewis_ XIV. took it in 1672; but it was restor’d to them soon after. ’Twas in this Place that the Peace was concluded between _France_ and the Allies in 1678. At the beginning of the War for the _Spanish_ Succession, the Duke of _Burgundy_ endeavor’d to make himself Master of it, but he had not the Fortune to succeed. The _Dutch_ have made it very strong, it being their main Bulwark towards the Duchy of _Cleves_. To go by Land from _Nimeguen_ to UTRECHT, I cross’d the _Vahal_ over a Flying-Bridge. I shall not speak of this City now; for I did not stay there, but went strait to LEYDEN[25], a City in the Province of _Holland_, famous for its University, founded in 1575.

This is without dispute one of the finest Cities in all the United Provinces. ’Tis situate in the ancient Channel of the _Rhine_. The Streets which are broad and very long, are extremely neat, and are for the most part divided by Canals, that are of a great Conveniency to its Trade, which consists chiefly in Woollen Cloth, whereof the City of _Leyden_ makes more than any other Town in _Holland_. There’s a Library also in this City, which is a very good Collection of the most curious printed Volumes, and a great Number of very scarce old MSS. Here is likewise a Physic-Garden worth seeing, and especially a Hall for Anatomies, in which there is all manner of Curiosities. This City sustain’d a Siege by the _Spaniards_ in 1574, when the _Dutch_ shook off their Tyrants Yoke. During this the City was reduc’d to the last Extremity, the Siege having continu’d from _Easter_ to the 3d of _October_, when the _Spaniards_ were oblig’d to retire. Tho’ _Leyden_ is a very pretty City, yet I take it to be one of the dullest Places in all _Holland_ to live in; for go where one will, we meet with such sickly Countenances as makes one melancholy to see them: not but that the Town’s-People are as healthy here as elsewhere; only the Habit they have got of appearing always in their Night-Gowns, and of even walking the Streets in them, makes them look more like Valetudinarians, than People in Health.

After a few days stay at _Leyden_, I went to the HAGUE[26], which I think may well be call’d the principal Village of _Europe_, it having neither Walls nor Ramparts; but bating that, ’tis one of the pleasantest Places in all _Holland_; it being so delightful that the States-General have chose it, preferably to any other, for holding their Assemblies; and here also reside the Ministers of the Foreign Courts. There is not a Place in all _Holland_ that yields such fine Walks, and the People are polite and much more sociable than in any other part of the Country. Most of the People of Quality meet every Evening alternately at one another’s Houses: These Assemblies would be much finer than they are in general, if the Company was not so promiscuous; but the Freedom of the Country, and the Wealth of the Inhabitants, very often set the Burgher upon a Level with the Man of Quality, and sometimes too above him.

The Houses at the _Hague_ are very fine, yet they are all without the Rules of Architecture, without Ornament, and in a manner without Regularity, excepting the Palaces of the Old Court and of Prince _Maurice_, and the House of M. _Obdam_. There’s not a House in short that has the air of a great Man’s House; the inner Rooms are commonly very mean, and not very commodious; they have no Notion of Anti-Chambers; the Domestics pass their Time in the Kitchens or the Entries; and, except at the Houses of Ambassadors, what we call a _Swiss_ or Porter, is no where to be seen. There’s a great Number of _Jews_ at the _Hague_, who make a fine Figure, especially the _Portuguese Jews_. These Gentlemen have the Equipages of Ambassadors, with magnificent Houses and Gardens; and they often make Treats with the utmost Delicacy and Splendor. They are admitted into all Companies, and only differ from the Christians of this Country by being possess’d of much more Wealth, and living at a far greater Expence. I knew one of ’em whose Name was _Duliz_, that was very much esteem’d: He was good-natur’d, generous, extremely charitable, and reliev’d all indifferently that were Objects of Compassion, without giving himself the Trouble of enquiring whether the Sharers of his Bounty were _Jews_ or _Christians_: And to my own knowledge he contributed as freely for the Maintenance of a Church, as if it had been his own Synagogue.

When I had staid about a Month at the _Hague_, I set out to see the chief Towns of _Holland_. The two first that one comes to are DELFT and _Rotterdam_. _Delft_[27] is a League from the _Hague_. They say that this Town was built by _Godfrey_ the _Crooked_ when he had conquer’d this Country; and that _Albert_ of _Bavaria_ having made himself master of it, demolish’d its Walls and Castle. It was entirely burnt to the ground by Accident in 1536, and afterwards re-built. The like Misfortune happen’d to it again in 1654, when the Powder Magazine took fire, and the Town, tho’ not totally consum’d, was nevertheless very much damag’d. It was again entirely re-built in the general Taste of all the Towns of _Holland_, that is to say, with Canals. There are two fine Churches at _Delft_, in the Chief of which there is the Tomb of Prince _William_ of _Orange_, who was assassinated in this Town in 1584, by _Belthazar Gerard_, a Native of _Franche-Comte_; and in the other Church there is the Tomb of the famous _Dutch_ Admiral _Martin Trompe_, which is of Marble, with a very fine Inscription, and beautiful Basso-Relievo’s, which represent the principal Actions of that great Man. ’Twas in this Town, that the Plenipotentiaries of _France_ resided during the Congress of _Ryswic_. All Ambassadors are receiv’d here on the part of the States, and ’tis here that they begin their March for their public Entry at the _Hague_. The Road which leads to it is lin’d with Elms, and entirely pav’d with Brick. There is not a Place in all _Holland_ where so many Passage-Boats are continually coming and going. They set out every Half-hour for the _Hague_, and every Hour for _Rotterdam_. These Boats are the favorite Carriers of the Country; and they are the most convenient Passage, not only for the Regularity of their Departure and Arrival, but because the Fare is settled. I forgot to tell you, that _Delft_ is the Place where they make the fine Earthen Ware.

From _Delft_ I went and lay at ROTTERDAM[28]. This City, which stands upon the _Maese_, is second to _Amsterdam_ for Trade, notwithstanding the Difficulty of entring the _Maese_, at the Mouth of which River Ships are oblig’d to stay for the Tide, and for a Pilot that knows the Coast. They say that _Rotterdam_ derives its Origin from _Ruther_ King of the _Franks_. This City is large and well built; and by its several Canals has a convenient Communication with all the Towns of _Holland_. The only Monument at _Rotterdam_ is a Statue of Brass in the great Square, representing the famous _Erasmus_, to whom this City gave Birth.

From _Rotterdam_ I went to DORT, or DORDRECHT, which is a very ancient Town, and the first in Rank in the Dominions of _Holland_. It stands in an Island between the _Maese_, the _Merwe_, the _Rhine_, and the _Ling_, having been broke off from the main Land in 1421, by an Inundation, which laid almost all its Territory under Water, and drown’d about 100,000 Persons. All these Rivers form a kind of Sea; so that at a distance the Situation of this Town looks very much like that of _Venice_. This Place was anciently the Residence of the Counts of _Holland_, one of whom, _viz._ _Albert_ of _Bavaria_, founded a Collegiate Church here in 1363. The Protestants assembled that famous National Synod here in 1618, which did not separate till the year following, after having establish’d that Religion which prevails at this time in the United Provinces.

When I had staid at _Dort_ as long as was necessary to see the Town and Parts adjacent, I return’d to _Rotterdam_, from whence I went next day in a Boat for AMSTERDAM[29]. This is the most famous City in all _Holland_, its Extent, vast Trade and Riches being the Admiration of all Foreigners; and what is more surprizing is, that it owes its Aggrandizement to itself, and its great Wealth to its Commerce. ’Tis said that this City was not known before the Year 1204; and that then it was no more than a little Castle call’d _Amstel_, from the Name of the River on which it was built. The then Lord of it, _Gysbrecht van Amstel_ brought Inhabitants to it, who were for most part poor Cottagers, that carried on a small Trade with their Neighbours by means of their Fishery; and at last by the force of Industry throve so well, that _Amstel_ from a Village, became in a few years, a very considerable Town, which was always subject to its own Lords, till a second _Gysbrecht_ being concern’d in the Assassination of _Florence_ V. Count of _Holland_, was oblig’d for some time to get out of the way, which prov’d to the Detriment of _Amsterdam_; but _Gysbrecht_ returning at length began to build Bridges and Towers, as he did several Houses at the same time in the neighbouring Country; and then they began to call the Place _Amsteldam_, by the Addition of the Word _Dam_, i. e. a _Dyke_, to its former Name of _Amstel_. This little Town was united afterwards to the County of _Holland_. _William_ IV. Sovereign of the Country, gave it several Privileges in 1342. These _Albert_ of _Bavaria_ confirm’d afterwards, by giving the Inhabitants a Power also of enlarging the Town, which by its Situation, and the Industry of the Inhabitants to improve its Commerce, soon became considerable; yet it continued without any Walls, even so long as the Year 1482. In the 16th Century this City increas’d considerably in Power; and during the Troubles which arose on account of Religion, took great Care to preserve the Catholic Religion, and their due Allegiance to its Princes. It turn’d out the Ministers of the Reformed Religion, and all that had embrac’d that Doctrine several times. But at length finding its Trade decay; and that the Succours brought to it by the Duke of _Alva_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, were scatter’d, ’twas oblig’d to surrender to the Prince of _Orange_ in 1587, on condition nevertheless that the Catholics should not be molested. This indeed was promis’d, but not duly perform’d; for the Clergy and Friars were soon after expell’d, and the Altars demolish’d; the consequence of which was the putting an entire stop to all the public Exercise of the Catholic Religion. The War which the Inhabitants of _Amsterdam_ had upon their hands, and the Persecution of the Catholics had hurt its Trade very much, till the Civil Wars kindled in the neighbouring Provinces drove several Merchants from _Brussels_, _Antwerp_, _&c._ to _Amsterdam_, where these new Citizens contributed so much to the Revival of its Commerce, that they have render’d it one of the finest and richest Cities in Being; and ’tis commonly call’d, _The Warehouse of the World_.

If the Situation of _Amsterdam_ be duly considered, it may be said to be one of the Wonders of the World. It stands so low, that it wou’d be continually in danger of being drown’d, were not the Water kept out by Dykes as high as the Waves. The River _Amstel_, so gentle that one can hardly perceive which way it runs, passes thro’ the whole City, and forms the great Canal over which there are two Bridges. That which is at the Mouth of the Sea, call’d the _Pont-neuf_, is one of the finest of the kind, not only for its Sluices, but for the noble View there is from thence of the Harbor, where Ships are continually going out or coming in from all parts of the World. Besides the Great Canal, there are others which deserve to be taken notice of, as, _The Emperors_ Canal, _The Lords_ Canal; that of the _Cingle_, and the _Princes_ Canal: All these Canals are broad and deep, and furnish’d with great Kays. The Sides are fac’d with Free-stone or Brick, and adorn’d with Lime-Trees and Elms. Very fine Houses are built on most of these Kays, and especially upon the Kay of _The Lords_ Canal; and new ones are building every day, which are very beautiful; and tho’ they are small, and not in the Rules of Architecture, have a certain Air of Neatness which is to be found no where else. Almost all the Houses have very fine Steps of shining black Marble, and noble Window-Frames, with very fine Panes, which are often of polish’d Glass.

The Streets of _Amsterdam_ are generally pretty narrow, yet very fine and neat; and on certain Days of the Week great Care is taken to wash them. I must tell you by the way, that there is not a place where the People are so fond of washing as they are at _Amsterdam_; for they scour the inside of their Houses every Week without fail, together with the Furniture of the Kitchen; so that they are always in the Suds. ’Tis true, that without this Care every thing would grow mouldy and spoil, as Foreigners have very often experienc’d, who, how loth soever to comply with this sort of Slavery, which they thought only the Fashion of the Country, were soon oblig’d to submit to it: And I believe, that were it not for this Necessity of always washing, the _Dutch_ wou’d not lose so much Time about it; for in other respects I have not observ’d ’em so nice. These People wear a Shirt for a Fortnight very well under a nasty, greasy Woollen Waistcoat: and their manner of eating is as slovenly; for the Generality know no Forks but their Fingers, wherewith they scoop up the Sallad swimming in the Vinegar, which is commonly their favorite Dish[30].

Of all the Public Buildings at _Amsterdam_, the Stadt-house is certainly the most magnificent. ’Tis a great Pile built of Free-stones very finely set, and forms a long Square. The 7 Porticoes which are in the main Front, and which the Architect has reduc’d to the number of 7, to denote the 7 United Provinces, are look’d upon as a defect in Architecture; for they are so narrow, that three Persons can scarce walk a-breast in them: which indeed is contrary to the Rules of Architecture, but yet no Fault in a Building, which like the Stadt-house is frequently expos’d to the Rage and Riots of a People as turbulent as the _Amsterdamers_. These seven Porticoes lead to two Gates at the Foot of the Grand Stair-Case. I don’t pretend, _Madame_, to give you all the particular Beauties of this Structure, being not acquainted enough with the Rules, or even the Terms of Architecture, to presume to enter into any Description of this nature; therefore I shall confine my self to what most strikes the Eye.

The Pediment of the principal Front was to my mind well fancy’d. ’Tis adorn’d with a Relievo of white Marble, in which a Woman is represented supporting the Arms of the City. There is also a _Neptune_, some Figures of Heroes, Lions, Unicorns, and the whole is of admirable Workmanship. This Pediment is crown’d with three fine Statues of Brass, which denote Justice, Power and Plenty. On the very Top of this whole Building there’s a Tower in form of a Dome. Here is a very fine Clock with Chimes, which are a pretty Amusement for such as are fond of that sort of Music.

The Inside of this House is every part of it very magnificent. The Chamber where they pass Sentence on Criminals is lin’d throughout with Marble, and adorn’d with Basso-Relievo’s, representing all the Emblems and Attributes of Justice. That which is most admir’d there is a fine Marble Statue representing _Themis_. This Room is rais’d very high, and a little too dark; yet ’tis so contriv’d, that all the People in the Square may see the Criminals try’d. The three Porticoes at the Entrance answer to the three Windows of this Hall, which Windows instead of Glass, have noble Bars of Brass curiously wrought.

The Great Hall is another stately Room, to which there’s an Ascent by a large Stair-Case with two Flights. All the Walls are lin’d with Basso-Relievo’s of Marble, intermix’d with fine Paintings. There are two Galleries or Corridors at the two ends of the Hall, which lead to Apartments on the right and left. In these Chambers are kept the several Offices relating to Affairs of the City. The Jurisdiction or Province of each Chamber is inscrib’d over the Door; and the Affairs there treated, are represented in magnificent Basso-Relievo’s. In one of these Rooms, such Persons as are not of the Reform’d Religion are oblig’d to be married before the _Echevin_, or else they are condemn’d in a Fine; and according to the Laws, their Marriage is to be reckon’d null and void.

In the Town-House is kept the famous Bank, which is the Repository of such a vast Treasure. Prodigious Arches and huge double Bars of Iron before the Windows, render it inaccessible. The Vaults are admirable, being built upon Piles in the middle of the Water, and yet so dry as if they were cut out of a Rock. One part of these Vaults serves for containing the immense Wealth, the other for confining Criminals. I had the Curiosity to go and see those Dungeons, which are all very lightsome and kept very neat; and in spite of the Proverb, they may be said to be very fine Prisons.

After I had been at the Town-House, I went to visit the Square where the Merchants assemble about the Affairs of their Trade from Noon till half an Hour past one o’clock. This Square, which is longer than ’tis broad, is surrounded with a large open Gallery or Corridor, supported by Free-stone Pillars, for shelter in case of Rain; and is call’d the _Bourse_ or _Exchange_. Here are Merchants of all Nations, the diversity of whose Habits and Languages is as pleasing as the Beauty of the Place; and especially the Hurry those People are in that are call’d _Brokers_, who are the Men employ’d by the great Merchants to traffick the Bills of Exchange, or to transact their other Affairs. To see them scowering from one to the other all about this Square, there’s no body but wou’d think they were mad.

The _India_-House and Admiralty-Office are also worth seeing. The first serves as a Warehouse for laying up such Merchandize as comes from the _Indies_. In the latter there is all the necessary Rigging for fitting out a Fleet to Sea. The _India_ Company have their separate Arsenal, which is in nothing inferior to that of the States. In this City there are Hospitals also of every Kind very well maintain’d, and Houses of Correction for both Sexes. _Amsterdam_ is the Place of Refuge for Sects of all Denominations, who have their several Chappels or Chambers there, wherein they exercise their Religion, but the _Calvinists_ and _Lutherans_ only are allow’d the Liberty of Public Worship. However the _Jews_ have two fine Synagogues here; the one for the _German_, and the other for the _Portuguese_ Nation. Of this Sect there are great Numbers, and they live in a particular Quarter, which is not the most inconsiderable of the City.

But notwithstanding all this Magnificence of Buildings, and the Concourse of so many Nations, I was quite out of conceit with _Amsterdam_. Every body sticks to Trade, and the Gratification of their Avarice is their whole Study. The Generality with their immense Wealth live like Misers; and all their Happiness, their Pleasure and their Pride consists in having a great deal of Money: They think of nothing but how to acquire Riches; and they look upon every Man that lives genteelly as a Prodigal. As to the _Dutch_ Freedom, I don’t believe there’s a Place where it bears greater Sway than at _Amsterdam_. ’Tis true, that this so much boasted Liberty serves very often but to render the Citizens insolent with Impunity; for there is not a Scrub but thinks himself as good a Man as the best in the Country: Foreigners have sometimes much ado to bear it, they being often abus’d without daring to complain; for it costs so much to obtain Justice here, that People had rather put up with an Insult, than seek a Remedy by due Course of Law. The Attorneys and Solicitors of this City outdo those of all other Countries in flattering their Clients to their Ruin, and most of this Gentry cut a great Figure, have noble Houses and Gardens, and some too have very spruce Equipages.

From _Amsterdam_ I went to HARLEM[31], which is but three Leagues. Heretofore, while the Catholic Religion subsisted in this Country, it was a Bishopric, Suffragan of _Utrecht_. The Town stands but a League from the Sea, or rather upon its Shore, the Sea having overflow’d a considerable part of the Country, which forms a Lake, now call’d the _Harlem Meer_, or Sea of _Harlem_. This Town communicates by its Canals both with _Amsterdam_ and _Leyden_. They pretend it was founded by the _Normans_ in the ninth Century. Pope _Paul_ IV. erected it into a Bishopric in 1559, at the Request of _Philip_ II. King of _Spain_. In 1572 the Bishop was turn’d out by the Protestants, not long after which the Town was besieg’d and taken by _Frederic_ of _Toledo_ Son to the Duke of _Alva_, who oblig’d the Inhabitants to surrender at Discretion, and caus’d them to be treated in the most barbarous manner in the World. The _Dutch_ retook it afterwards, and have held it ever since. There are very fine Walks in this City, and especially a Grove which is deem’d a charming Place by the Citizens of _Amsterdam_, who come hither in the Summer to make their Parties of Pleasure.

After having seen what was most remarkable at _Harlem_, I return’d by the way of _Leyden_ to the _Hague_, where I had not been many days, before the King arriv’d, having pass’d the same day before _Rotterdam_, where he had been saluted with a triple Discharge of the Cannon, as he was also at _Delfshaven_, where he found his Yatcht, follow’d by several others that had been sent to him from the _Hague_. These attended the King to _Delft_, where his Coaches staid for him, with which he came to his Palace of the _Old Court_.

There he found a Guard of fourscore Men, with a Captain and a Pair of Colors. His Majesty caus’d his Arrival to be immediately notify’d to the President of the Assembly of the States-General, and next day, after Sermon time, he receiv’d the Deputation from the said States, consisting of nine Members, who when they arriv’d at the King’s Palace found the Guard under Arms, Colors flying, and the Drum beating, and were receiv’d at the bottom of the Stairs by the Grand Marshal and several Gentlemen of the Chamber, and introduc’d into the King’s Bed-chamber, who receiv’d them bare-headed and standing before an Arm-Chair. As the Audience was only to compliment his Majesty upon his Arrival, it was very short; and the States returning to the usual Place of their Assembly, went afterwards and din’d with the King.

Some days after this his Majesty set out for _Honslaerdyk_, a Place two Leagues from the _Hague_, which he enjoy’d by Inheritance from the late K. _William_ of _England_. Thither I follow’d the King, who staid there till he had receiv’d Advice, that the Prince of _Nassau_, Governor of _Friseland_, was to come from the Army in _Flanders_ to the _Hague_, there to make an end of the Differences betwixt him and his Majesty about the Succession to the Family of _Orange_, of which that Prince took the Title, by virtue of the last Will and Testament of the late King of _England_, the last Prince of the said Family. The King had been expecting him for some days, when a Courier arriv’d with the News, that the Prince was drown’d in the Passage of the _Moerdyke_. Having embark’d there with his Retinue to pass the _Stryen-Sas_, he was not got above thirty or forty Paces from Shore, when a furious Gust of Wind arose, by which the Vessel was overset and lost. As the Sea swell’d at the same time, and the Prince knew not how to swim, he could not get ashore. Colonel _Hilkes_ who accompanied him was drown’d with him, and none but his Domestics escap’d. The unfortunate Prince was seen to hang by the Mast of the Vessel for some Moments, and there were some hopes of relieving him, had it not been for a Wave, which drove by a Blast of Wind carried him off from the piece of Wood he clung to, and cast him away. The Body of this Prince, who was very much regretted, was not found till about a Week after, in the very same place where the Vessel happen’d to be cast away. ’Twas carried to _Dort_ where ’twas embalm’d, and then remov’d to _Lewarden_, there to be interr’d in the Tomb of his Family.

The King was the more afflicted at this sad Accident, because the News was told him too hastily, by a foolish Courier, who, for want of knowing his Master’s Temper, thought that the News of the Prince of _Friseland_’s Death wou’d not be disagreeable to him; but the King gave public Demonstration how sorry he was for his Loss, and sent a Gentleman of the Bed-chamber to the last Princess-Dowager of _Nassau_, to assure her how much he sympathiz’d in her loss.

The Death of the Prince of _Friseland_ interrupted the whole Treaty of Accommodation. The said Prince left a Daughter, and the Princess his Wife pregnant, who wrote to the States to desire them not to do any thing in prejudice of the Infant of whom she hoped to be deliver’d; and that as they were Executors Testamentary, they would preserve the Bulk of his Inheritance entire; and that otherwise she openly protested against every thing that might be done. This Demand did not hinder the States from granting the King a provisional Portion; and it was agreed, that his Majesty, as well as the Heirs of the Prince of _Nassau_, now deceas’d, should be paid 150000 _Dutch_ Florins a year, out of the Estate of the _Orange_ Family: That the Palaces of Prince _Frederic-Henry_, of which the King was already in Possession, shou’d continue his; but that the _Dieren_ Palace shou’d be common both to the King and the Prince’s Heirs; and that the rest should be referr’d to a definitive Accommodation, which is the Thing that still remains to be done. I had the Honor to pay my Court punctually all the Time that his Majesty spent at the _Hague_; and when he set out, I went with him to _Dieren_, where I took leave of the King, little thinking ’twou’d be the last Time I should see him.

I went thro’ DUSSELDORFF[32], the Capital of the Duchy of _Berg_, which was then the Residence of the Elector _Palatine_, who, it must be noted, was the first of the _Palatine_ Electors that liv’d here; for the Electors commonly resided heretofore at _Heidelberg_ or _Manheim_. The Elector _John-William_ had preferred _Dusseldorff_ to all other Places, from an early liking that he took to that Town, of which he was Master, even in the Life-time of the Elector his Father; who when he married his Son to the Emperor _Leopold_’s Sister, yielded to him the Duchies of _Juliers_ and _Berg_, of which _Dusseldorff_ is the Capital City, and wou’d have been one of the finest in _Germany_, if the Emperor had liv’d long enough to put the great Projects which he had form’d in execution. This Prince had already begun to augment the City with one entire Quarter, the Streets whereof were as strait as a Line; and I saw the Plan of a new Palace that he intended to build, which wou’d certainly have been one of _Europe_’s Grand Structures. As to that now at _Dusseldorff_, the only beautiful part of it is that call’d the Gallery; tho’ why it has that Name I can’t imagine, since nothing resembles a Gallery less. It contains five Rooms, three of which are much bigger than the others. One of these Rooms is quite full of magnificent Paintings by the famous _Rubens_. In another there’s a great number of Paintings by _Van der Werf_, a _Dutch_ Painter who died lately at the _Hague_. If a Man has ever so little Taste or Skill in Painting, ’tis impossible for him to be indifferent for such Pictures, which may be said to be all Master-pieces. Such are those representing the good old Man _Simeon_ holding the Savior of the World in his Arms; our Lord teaching in the Temple; and the Pictures of the Elector and Electoress, in two particular Rooms of the first Story of this Gallery, are the Models of the most magnificent Statues of _Italy_, sent for by the Elector from all parts of that Country at a vast Expence. The three others are full of modern Statues of Marble and Brass, which are for the most part done by the famous _Gripilli_ an _Italian_, and an excellent Artist, especially for Busts that require a Likeness.

In the Court-yard of the Palace there’s an Equestrian Statue of the Elector arm’d cap-a-pee, with the Electoral Bonnet on his Head, and mounted upon a very fine Horse of yellow Copper. In the same Court there is likewise a very fine Fountain, the Group of which is of Brass very curiously wrought, but so incumber’d with Works of different Kinds, that ’tis difficult to distinguish them.

Five Leagues from _Dusseldorff_ there’s a Hunting-Seat call’d _Bensberg_[33], which is built in a Forest on a Hill, from whence there’s a fine Prospect of the City of _Cologne_, the _Rhine_, and all the flat Country. To this Castle there’s a large Avenue, by a gradual Ascent, till one comes to the Grate of the first Court, on each side whereof there’s a large Guard-House, the Front of which forms a Gallery supported by Pillars of grayish Marble, which is dug in this Country. The rest of this Seat has very much the air of the Castle of _Versailles_, only ’tis not so large or lofty. In the two Wings of this Building, there are two Stair-Cases which lead to the Apartments. ’Tis plain that this Structure was design’d entirely by an _Italian_; because, according to the Fashion of that Country, the Apartments consist of a great number of Rooms all upon one Floor too, but without any Closets or Conveniencies. The outside of this Structure is the oddest thing in the World. It consists of numberless Ornaments, which ’tis impossible to distinguish: And I think it no Injustice to the Castle of _Bensberg_, to say, ’tis a noble fine House full of Imperfections.

After having given you an Account of the Elector’s several Buildings, I fancy, _Madame_, that some short Memoirs of his Family will not be disagreeable to you. To be sure you are not ignorant, that the Succession of the _Neubourg_ Family to the Dignity of Elector _Palatine_, is owing only to the Extinction of the Protestant _Palatine_ Family, the last of which was the Elector _Charles_, who left but one Sister, married to MONSIEUR _Philip_ of _France_, Duke of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. _Philip-William_ Duke of _Neubourg_, the Father of him whom I have had the Honor of mentioning to you, was the first Elector of this Branch. This Prince, who had a numerous Family, match’d them to the chief Crowns of _Europe_, and he had no less than four Princes and five Princesses.

The eldest of the Princes was the Elector _John-William_ of _Neubourg_, who married to his first Wife an Archduchess of _Austria_, Sister to the Emperor _Leopold_, by whom he had no Issue. He married to his second Wife _Anne-Mary-Louisa_ of _Medicis_, Daughter to _Cosmo_ III. Great Duke of _Tuscany_; but having no more Issue by this Match than by the former, he took the Hereditary Prince of _Sultzbach_ to his Court, where he was brought up as the Heir of his Family, in case that himself and the Princes his Brothers died without Male Issue. This young Prince was then look’d upon as the Electoral Prince, and receiv’d all the Honors as such. The Person who had the Care of his Education was the Baron _de Seckingen_; and it may be said, that he did his utmost to make a great Prince of him.

The second was _Charles-Lewis_, now the Elector.

The third _Francis-Lewis de Neubourg_, Elector of _Triers_ and Grand Master of the _Teutonic_ Order.

The fourth _Alexander-Sigismond_, Bishop of _Augsbourg_.

The Princesses were all married. The eldest, whose Name was _Eleonora-Magdalena-Theresa_ of _Neubourg_, married the Emperor _Leopold_, Father to the present Emperor, and died _Jan. 19, 1719_, aged 74.

The second was married to the King of _Portugal_.

The third, nam’d _Mary-Anne_ of _Neubourg_, was married to _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_.

The fourth, _Dorothy_ of _Neubourg_ was married to the Duke of _Parma_, by whom she had among other Children Princess _Elizabeth Farnese_, the second Wife of _Philip_ V. King of _Spain_.

The fifth and last of these Princesses, _Hedwiga-Elizabeth_ of _Neubourg_, was married to _James-Lewis Sobieski_, by whom she had _Clementina Sobieski_, Wife to the Chevalier _de St. George_. The Mother died at _Olaw_ the 10th of _August_ 1722, aged 50.

After having pass’d some time at the _Palatine_ Court, I set out about the middle of _August_ for _Francfort_ on the _Main_, where I arriv’d a few days before the opening of the Conferences for the Election of an Emperor.

FRANCFORT[34] is one of the most considerable Towns of all _Germany_, has the Title of an Imperial City, and is a part of the Diocese of _Mentz_. ’Tis divided into two parts by the _Main_, over which there is a fine Stone Bridge. The frequent Fires which this City has suffer’d, and especially that of 1719, have contributed not a little to its Embellishment, all the Houses being re-built in a better Taste than before; yet most of the Buildings are still of Timber and fac’d with Plaister that is color’d, few private Men having been at the Expence of building with Stone. _Francfort_ may thank the _Jews_ for most of those Fires; for the _Jews_ who are very numerous here, live in a Quarter by themselves, which is shut up every Night; and being so narrow, that they are straiten’d for Room, they are oblig’d to lie in Heaps as it were upon one another, in very high Houses, which being moreover of Timber, easily catch Fire. They have seen their whole Quarter in Ashes twice successively, because they refus’d the Assistance they might have had to extinguish the Flames; for they never wou’d open their Gates for fear of being robb’d, unless when they saw that the People were going to break them open by Force. Notwithstanding all the Reasons for not suffering them at _Francfort_, they have a better Toleration than the _Calvinists_, and have fine Synagogues; whereas the _Calvinists_ do not enjoy the free Exercise of their Religion, the Magistrates and most of the Inhabitants being _Lutherans_.

The City of _Francfort_ is one of the first that embrac’d the Opinions of _Luther_, which presently occasion’d a Revolt: For the Inhabitants demanding the free Exercise of _Lutheranism_, and the Clergy and Senate vigorously opposing it, there was an Insurrection, in which the Inhabitants having the Advantage, they depos’d the Senate, and establish’d a sort of Magistracy compos’d of twenty-four, taken from the Body of the Populace. These Acts of Violence had such fatal Consequences, that at last in 1530 the City embrac’d the Confession of _Augsbourg_, enter’d into the League of _Smalcald_, and had a share in the other Calamities which afflicted the Empire. ’Twas besieg’d twice in 1552, by _Maurice_ Elector of _Saxony_, and by _Albert_ Margrave of _Brandenburg_, surnam’d the _Alcibiades_ of _Germany_, who made himself Master of it; but it soon after recover’d its Liberty, and since that time has increas’d very much. The Elections and Coronations of the Emperors render it a very considerable Place. These two Grand Ceremonies are perform’d in the Church of St. _Bartholomew_, which is a vile, little, dark Building, very improper, in short, for Solemnities of that sort. The Imperial Feast is kept on the very Day of the Coronation, in the Great Hall of the Town-house, which is indeed a very wide but irregular Room. The Town-house is called _Romer_: They say ’twas anciently the House of a private Gentleman, who made a Present of it to the City. If that be true, it may be said the Gentleman liv’d at large.

This City has considerable Fairs, which draw a great Number of Merchants to it and People of Quality. The River _Main_ which falls into the _Rhine_ near _Mentz_, is a great Advantage to its Commerce. This, _Madame_, is within a Trifle all that can be said of _Francfort_. I am now to have the Honor of giving you a particular Account of the chief Circumstances that attended the Election and Coronation of the Emperor.