Chapter VI: Part 6

The Conferences for the Election were open’d on the 25th of _August_, and held from nine o’clock in the Morning till Noon. The Plenipotentiaries of the absent Electors therein communicated their full Powers, and referr’d them to the Elector of _Mentz_, who afterwards made a Speech upon what had given occasion to that August Assembly. In this first Session it was resolv’d, that every thing there treated of shou’d be kept secret; and then they adjourn’d.

The March of the Electors of _Mentz_ and _Triers_ to and from the Town-house was very grand. The first was _Lotharius-Francis de Schonborn_, of the Family of the Counts of _Schonborn_; and the second was _Charles-Joseph de Lorrain_, who was of the _Lorrain_ Family, and died in 1715, on the 4th of _December_. These two Princes rode each in a great Coach, cover’d with black Cloth, attended by all their Houshold and Guards in close Mourning.

The Equipages of the Ambassadors of the absent Electors were very spruce, especially the Equipages of the Ambassadors of _Saxony_, who had also the Honor to have with them their Master’s Son, who went by the Name of the Count of _Lusatia_. Besides, the King of _Poland_ had given them his own Equipage, and permitted them to cloath their Domestics in his Livery.

The Ambassadors whom the King (of _Prussia_) sent in quality of Elector of _Brandenburg_, appear’d likewise with a Splendor worthy of the Prince whom they represented. They were the Count _de Dlona_ and M. _Henning_; but the former had the Honors of the Embassy. This Minister appear’d with a Train of 40 Gentlemen of the King’s Bed-chamber; he had 5 Coaches drawn by 6 Horses each, 8 Pages, 36 Footmen and 2 _Swiss_. M. _Henning_, who was appointed to attend to the Business, had not the Satisfaction to see the Success of these Assemblies; for having in the very first Session spoke with great Zeal for the Interests of his Country, he heated himself to such a degree, that he found himself out of Order when he came home; and that very Night he had a Fit of an Apoplexy of which he died next day. The Count _de Metternich_ was appointed to supply his Place. No body was fitter to serve the King in the Assembly at _Francfort_ than this Nobleman, who had in several Embassies acquir’d a great Knowledge of the Affairs of the Empire; and particularly in the Embassy at _Ratisbon_, in which he was employ’d a long time.

As soon as the Conferences were open’d, the Foreign Ministers, _viz._ the Pope’s Nuncio, the Envoys of _Savoy_ and of the other Princes of _Italy_, the Envoy Extraordinary of the States-General, and those of the Princes of the Empire, notify’d their Arrival to the Electoral College, and sent their Credentials to the Chancery, which was kept at the Palace of the Elector of _Mentz_, that Prince being by Birth Chancellor of the Empire.

At the beginning of these Conferences there were some Difficulties started, relating to the Pretensions of the Nuncio and Nephew of the then Pope _Clement_ XI. who pretended that the Electors should pay him the first Visit; and that when he return’d it to them, they were bound to give him the Right Hand. The Electors were very much startled at the Nuncio’s Demand, and publickly refus’d to subscribe to such Claims; so that no Visit was made on either side, and the Nuncio only saw the Electors in a Garden where they happen’d to meet by Chance. The Nuncio threaten’d he would protest against the Ninth Electorate establish’d in favor of the Family of _Brunswic-Hanover_, and against the Royal Dignity of _Prussia_; but he was given to understand, that neither of his Protestations would avail any thing. And the Ambassadors of _Prussia_ sent him word in plain Terms, that if he offered to protest against the Regal Dignity of their Master, the King would not fail to give Order to his Troops that were in _Italy_, to enter into the Ecclesiastic State, and to live at Discretion therein, as if it were an Enemy’s Country. The Nuncio frighted by those Menaces, and thinking he already saw the _Prussian_ Troops in his Holiness’s Territories, sent his Secretary forthwith to the Ambassadors to assure them that he wou’d not protest; that he never had a Thought nor Order for it; that his Holiness had all the Respect and Esteem for the King their Master which so great a Prince deserv’d; and that he would be glad to give Proofs of it upon every Occasion.

The Electors of _Cologn_ and _Bavaria_ protested likewise against the Assembly, in case they were refused Admission to the Conferences for the Election; but they were of no more avail than those of the Nuncio. Those Princes sent their Protests by the Post, in form of Letters, directed to the Count _de Papenheim_ Marshal of the Empire, and seal’d with an unknown Seal. The Situation those Electors stood in at that time, did not permit them to cause their Protests to be publish’d with the due Formalities, nevertheless they were soon made public. The Respect and Friendship People had for the illustrious Family of _Bavaria_, made every body eager to have Copies of ’em, but they signify’d nothing, and the Conferences continu’d.

On the 2d of _October_ the Conferences being ended for that Day, the Magistrates and Heads of the Militia, went in a Body to the Town-house, to take the Oath prescrib’d by the Golden Bull. They there found the Electors, who were at that time in _Francfort_, and the Ambassadors of the absent Electors, all sitting in Chairs of State, under a great Canopy of black Velvet. After the Oath was read, the Magistrates and the Officers of the Militia took it in presence of the Elector of _Mentz_, as did also the Citizens and the Garison, but the Ceremony was different; for it was not taken in the Town-house, but without it, in an open Gallery, rais’d in a great Square, and hung with Cloth. There the Chancellors of the two Spiritual Electors and the Magistrates receiv’d the Oath of the Citizens, in presence of the Electors and Ambassadors, who were plac’d at the Windows of the Town-house. The Burghers, who were to the Number of 14 Companies, took the Oath first, and then the Soldiers of the Garrison.

On the 10th of _October_ Proclamation was made by Sound of Trumpet for all Foreigners, who were not in the Retinue of the Electors, or the Electoral Ambassadors, to retire out of the City before the Sun was set, till the Electors had chose an Emperor. The Nuncio thought at first, that his Character and the Respect due to the Holy Father would exempt him from the general Rule; but being inform’d of the contrary, he retir’d to _Aschaffenbourg_.

On the 12th, about seven in the Morning all the Bells were rung, upon which the Burghers and the Soldiers of the Garrison assembled at the Houses of their respective commanding Officers; and then went and posted themselves in the Streets leading from the Town-house to the Church of St. _Bartholomew_. The Burghers had the Post of Honor from the Soldiers. At nine o’clock the Electors and Ambassadors went to the Town-house, the Courts and Equipages of all but the Ambassadors of _Bohemia_ having laid aside their Mourning.

The Moment after the Electors arriv’d in the usual Chamber of the Assembly they went into other Rooms, where they caus’d themselves to be dress’d in their Electoral Habits, which are very majestic, being wide Gowns very much plaited with very long Sleeves, the Linings and Facings being of Ermin; and over all the Electors wear a sort of Mantle of Ermin. The Habits for the Spiritual and Temporal Electors are much the same, only those of the former are of Scarlet, and those of the latter of Crimson-Velvet. Their Caps are of the Color of their Habits, and like them turn’d up with Ermin.

As soon as the Electors were dress’d they return’d to the Assembly-Room, and then went with the Ambassadors of the other Electors from the Town-House to the Square, where they found Horses sumptuously caparison’d, which they mounted, and thus rode in Cavalcade to St. _Bartholomew_’s Church. The three Electors rode first in one Row bare-headed. The four Ambassadors of the absent Electors rode next, according to the Rank of their Masters. Their Electoral Highnesses and the Ambassadors were receiv’d at the Door of the Church by the Bishop of _Neustadt_ at the Head of the Chapter, who conducted them into the Choir, where they plac’d themselves, according to their Rank, in the Stalls of the Canons, which were lin’d with Velvet and Gold-Lace. The Elector of _Triers_ sate by himself opposite to the Altar, where a Praying-Desk and an Arm-Chair were set up for him, which were lin’d also with Crimson-Velvet.

When all the Company were seated, the Bishop of _Neustadt_ began the Mass. At the first Consecration, the Ambassadors of the Protestant Electors went into the Chappel of the Conclave which joins to the Choir: After the Elevation of the Host they return’d to their Places, where they remain’d during the rest of the Office, and then the Electors and Ambassadors all went up to the Altar. The Elector of _Mentz_ was in the middle between the Elector of _Triers_ on his Right and the Elector-Palatine on his Left. The Ambassadors were in the same Row, according to their Rank, on the Right and Left of the Electors. The Elector of _Mentz_ took the Book of the Gospels and laid his Right Hand upon it, as did also the Electors that were present, and the Ambassadors of those who were absent, and then took the customary Oath to elect no Person for Emperor but one that they should think in Conscience to be most qualify’d. After having taken the Oath they went into the Chapel of the Conclave, where they were shut up near three Hours. Then they return’d into the Church and plac’d themselves in a Gallery erected over the Grate that separates the Choir from the Nave, which was lin’d with Scarlet Cloth and hung with Tapestry, and had seven Arm-Chairs plac’d in it of red Velvet, adorn’d with Lace and Fringe of Gold. The Electors and Ambassadors being seated, the Chancellor of _Mentz_ read aloud the Act which had been just drawn up in the Conclave, whereby CHARLES King of the _Romans_, and of _Spain_, was proclaim’d Emperor. Then the whole Church resounded with great Shouts of _Long live the Emperor_! And at the same instant the Cannon was fir’d from the Ramparts, and the Burghers and the Garison made three Discharges of their small Arms.

After the Proclamation the Electors and the Ambassadors descended from the Gallery to their Places in the Choir, and after the singing of _Te Deum_ which was tun’d by the Bishop of _Neustadt_, they return’d to the Town-House in the same Order that they came. There the Electors quitted their Robes of Ceremony, and each return’d to their Palaces, where they stay’d till the Evening; and the Ambassadors did the same. At Night they all supp’d at the House of the Count _de Windisgratcht_, the first Ambassador of _Bohemia_, and by consequence the Ambassador of the new Emperor, who gave a magnificent Feast, which was accompany’d with a very fine Concert of Music. This great Day’s Work was concluded by the Choice which the Electoral College made of Prince _Charles_ of _Neubourg_, to carry to the new Emperor the Act of his Proclamation.

Notwithstanding the surprizing Concourse of People from all Quarters to see this august Ceremony, there was not the least Disorder in the whole Solemnity, excepting a little Dispute that happen’d between the Prince _de la Tour Taxis_ and the Count of _Nassau-Weilbourg_. The former, tho’ of a modern Family in comparison to the Count, yet presuming upon his Title of Prince, claim’d Precedency of the Count, but the latter decided the Difference in an instant; for he took the Prince by the Arm, and pushing him behind him, said to him, _You are to know, Sir, that such Princes as you are, walk behind such Counts as I am_. The Prince very much stunn’d at the Compliment, did not think proper to push his Pretensions farther.

Immediately after the Ceremony of the Election was over, I set out for _Zell_, where I had the Misfortune to find my self Motherless as well as Fatherless. My Mother having died there during my stay at _Francfort_, whose Death grieved me very much, and the more because ’twas the first Incident I had met with in all my Life to give me a serious Concern: But now perhaps, that I am more us’d to Disappointments, such News would not make so much Impression upon me as it did then.

I stay’d some time at _Zell_ to settle several Affairs with my Brother relating to my Mother’s Succession, till I had a Letter acquainting me that the Ceremony of the Emperor’s Coronation was fix’d for the 22d of _December_, and thereupon I set out immediately again for _Francfort_.

I travell’d thro’ _Hanover_, which I have already had the Honor to mention to you, and from _Hanover_ I went to CASSEL, which Town is the common Residence of the Landgrave of _Hesse_, and divided into two Parts by the River _Fulde_. The New Town is very well built with pretty Houses, and the Streets are very even and spacious. The Landgrave’s Palace which is old is encompass’d with Ramparts, part of which on that side next to the Country forms a Terras planted with Orange-Trees, which in Winter are cover’d by a boarded House. The Name of the present Landgrave is _Charles_, who was born the 3d of _August_ 1654, and has had seven Children by _Mary-Amelia_ of _Courland_.

1. Prince _Frederic_, born the 28th of _August_ 1676, who became King of _Sweden_ by his Marriage with _Eleonora_ Princess of _Sweden_, who succeeded _Charles_ XII. He had to his first Wife _Louisa-Dorothea-Sophia_ only Daughter of the King of _Prussia_, at which time he was Stadtholder of _Cleves_, and had a Regiment of Foot in his Majesty’s Service.

2. The Princess _Sophia-Charlotta_ Duchess-Dowager of _Mecklemburg-Swerin_, who lives still in _Mecklemburg_, from whence she often goes to the Court of her Father.

3. Prince _William_, who is a Lieutenant-General of the _Dutch_ Forces, and Governor of _Maestricht_. He marry’d _Wilhelmina_ of _Saxe-Zeits_.

4. The Princess _Mary-Louisa_, Dowager of the Prince of _Nassau-Friesland_ drown’d in his Passage at the _Moerdyke_.

5. The Prince _Maximilian_, marry’d to a Princess of _Hesse-Darmstad_.

6. The Prince _George_, a General Officer in the Service of _Prussia_, Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle.

7. _Wilhelmina-Charlotte_, who was a most accomplish’d Princess, but died some time ago.

These Princes and Princesses met very often at the Court of the Landgrave their Father, and then render’d it one of the most splendid in _Germany_, not only by reason of their Magnificence, but for their affable Deportment to all Mankind, but especially to Foreigners. I was loth to go from _Cassel_, but as the Term fix’d for the Emperor’s Coronation drew near, I could not stay there any longer.

And indeed, I arrived at FRANCFORT but a few Hours before the Emperor. The Electors and Ambassadors went out of Town and met his Imperial Majesty, as did also the Magistrates with the Burgo-Master, and complimented him under a Tent erected there for that purpose. When the Compliments were ended his Majesty went again into his Coach, as did the Electors and Ambassadors into theirs, and they enter’d the City while the Cannon fir’d and the People shouted, _Long live the Emperor Charles_ VI. His Imperial Majesty alighted at the Church of St. _Bartholomew_. The Elector-Palatine who was so indispos’d that he could not go out to meet his Majesty, receiv’d him at the Door of the Church, as did also the Bishop of _Neustadt_ at the Head of the Chapter; and his Majesty was conducted to a Throne set up for him on the Right-side of the Altar, by the Electors. The Elector-Palatine walk’d before, and the two other Electors supported the Emperor. When he was seated on his Throne, the Bishop tun’d the _Te Deum_, and gave the Benediction. The Emperor was afterwards conducted with the same Ceremonies to his Palace, which was hung with Mourning. The Electors and Ambassadors having accompany’d his Imperial Majesty to his Closet, retir’d to their respective Habitations. The next and following Days the Emperor receiv’d the Visits of the Electors, the Ambassadors, and the Electoress Palatine, which he return’d.

When the 22d of _December_, the Day fix’d for the Coronation, was arriv’d, all the Burghers and the Garison were drawn up under Arms all the way from the Imperial Palace to the Church. The Procession was begun by the Footmen and Pages belonging to the Ambassadors, to the Elector-Palatine and to the Emperor, and they were follow’d by the Courtiers of the Elector and of the Emperor, and by Persons of Quality that were in the Ambassadors Retinue. After them there appear’d six Heralds at Arms, the first of which carry’d a single Eagle, the second a double Cross, the third a Lion, and the three others Spread-Eagles, the whole after the manner of the _Roman_ Ensigns. After the Heralds, came the Ambassadors, the Vicars of the Electors, and the Elector-Palatine, bearing the _Imperialia_ or Ornaments of the Empire; and immediately after them the Emperor appear’d, under a stately Canopy. His Habit was like that of the Secular Electors, that is to say, a Robe of Crimson-Velvet turn’d up with Ermin: He had on his Head a Crown enrich’d with Diamonds, which was the Crown of his Family, and he rode a very fine _Spanish_ Horse, the Equipage of which was truly magnificent. Behind the Emperor came the principal Officers of his Houshold, and the Captain of the Guards at the Head of his Company; and the Elector-Palatine’s Life-Guards closed the March.

When the Emperor arrived at the Church, the Electors of _Mentz_ and _Triers_ in their Pontificalibus went and receiv’d him at the Door, from whence they conducted him to his Seat in the Choir over-against the High Altar. There his Imperial Majesty heard the Mass, after which he was conducted to the Town-House almost in the same Order as was observ’d at his coming to Church, with this Difference, that the Emperor was deck’d with the Ornaments of the Empire, which consist of the Crown, the Mantle, and _Charlemain_’s Sword. His Majesty was now on foot between the two Ecclesiastical Electors, who accompany’d him, as did the Elector-Palatine, and the Vicars and Ambassadors of the absent Electors to the Great Hall of the Town-House, where the Imperial Feast was prepar’d. The Emperor plac’d himself at one of the Windows looking into the great Square, on purpose to be seen by the People; of whom there was such a Multitude, that not only the Square but the Windows and Roofs of the Houses were cover’d with them.

From this Window his Majesty saw the Officers of the Empire perform their Functions. The Count _de Papenheim_ the Elector of _Saxony_’s Vicar, as Grand Marshal of the Empire, was the first that began the Ceremony. He was mounted on a very fine Horse, which he rode full gallop to a Heap of Oats in one Corner of the Square, wherewith he fill’d a Measure of Silver, after which he return’d to the Middle of the Square, where he threw both the Oats and the Measure among the Populace, and then he went to the Banquetting-Room.

The Elector-Palatine appear’d next, encompass’d with his Guards, and preceded by his Courtiers. He went on horseback to a Kitchen built for the purpose in the great Square, where he found a whole Ox roasting on a Spit, of which he cut off a Slice, and putting it into a Gold Dish he carry’d it to the Emperor’s Table.

The Count _de Zinzendorf_, Vicar to the Elector of _Hanover_ as Treasurer of the Empire, came next. He was on horseback attended by the Emperor’s Guards, and taking a compass round the Square he scatter’d Medals of Gold and Silver among the Populace, which he took out of a couple of Bags of Cloth that were ty’d to his Saddle-Bow. These Medals represented on one side the Globe of the Earth encompass’d with Clouds, and this _Latin_ Inscription, _Constantiâ & Fortitudine_. On the other side was this Legend, _Carolus, Hispaniarum, Hung. & Bohem. Rex. A. A. Electus in Regem Roman. coronat. Francof. 22 Decemb. 1711_. Over which there was an Imperial Crown like to that of _Charlemain_.

The Count _de Dhona_ Ambassador from the King as Elector of _Brandenburg_, perform’d the Function of Great Chamberlain of the Empire in the absence of the Prince of _Hohenzollern_ the Elector’s Vicar, who was at that time indispos’d. The Count preceded by all his Livery, and accompany’d by some of the Emperor’s Guards, rode on horseback towards the middle of the Square, where a Table was erected on which there was a Basin and Ewer of Silver gilt full of Water, with a Napkin that had been dipp’d in it, all which he took and carry’d into the Banquetting-Room, and gave to the Emperor to wash.

Afterwards the Count _de Kinski_, Ambassador of his Imperial Majesty as King of _Bohemia_, officiated for the Person whom he represented, as Great Cup-Bearer of the Empire: For this purpose he took a Goblet of Gold and fetch’d Wine at a Fountain erected in the middle of the Square representing the Imperial Eagle; which done, the Count went into the Banquetting-Room, and gave it to the Emperor to drink.

Thus did the Officers of the Empire acquit themselves of their several Functions: After this the Emperor plac’d himself alone at a Table upon a rais’d Floor, cover’d with red Cloth; and over it there was a Canopy of Gold Brocade. When the Emperor was seated the Electors plac’d themselves at Tables that were prepar’d for them on both sides of the Hall, on Floors that were a Step lower than the Emperor’s. Over each Table there was a Canopy of Crimson-Velvet inrich’d with Gold, and they had each an Arm-Chair of the same. On the Right-side of each Table there was a magnificent Beaufet. The three Electors sate alone at their several Tables, and the Ambassadors of the absent Electors, after having stood a little while behind the Chairs plac’d for their respective Masters, went into another Room. On the following Days the Electors din’d with the Emperor, and his Majesty went also and din’d with the Electors. At length, after the Emperor had perform’d all the Ceremonies that are observ’d at Coronations, he set out from _Francfort_ for his Hereditary Dominions, where he was impatiently expected by his Subjects.

Just as I was ready to depart from _Francfort_ I receiv’d the melancholy News of the Death of the King’s Brother the Margrave _Philip_, to whom I was very much attached, and was therefore mightily afflicted for the Loss of him. The King’s Ambassadors, to avoid the Expence of putting their Equipage in Mourning, kept his Death secret, so that they did not notify it to his Imperial Majesty till the Day before he went.

I set out from _Francfort_ much about the same time as the Emperor did, and pass’d through _Cassel_, _Hanover_, and _Dusseldorff_. I lik’d _Francfort_ so well before, that it tempted me to return to it; and besides, that was the Place to which a Passport was to be directed that I had sent for from _France_, in order to carry me to _Paris_. As soon as I receiv’d it I traveled thro’ _Minden_, which I have already had the Honor to mention to you; and from thence, after having pass’d through _Bilefeld_ a little Town in the County of _Ravensberg_, I arriv’d at MUNSTER.

This, which was formerly an Imperial City, is now the See of a Bishop, Prince of the Empire, and Lord of the Town and its Jurisdiction. It stands in _Westphalia_ in a large Plain, and on a little River which renders it very strong. It was the Birth-place of the famous _Muntzer_, the Head of the Anabaptists, a Sect of Heretics, who grew so powerful that they undertook to make themselves Masters of the City, and to chuse themselves a King; and about the End of the sixteenth Century, they accordingly chose for their Sovereign one _John of Leyden_, a Taylor, infamous for the Cruelties and Outrages which he committed. But Heaven deliver’d the City from such a Scourge; for at length after some Resistance it was reduc’d, and _John of Leyden_ was put to death by the Hangman. The City revolted again afterwards; but at last the Bishop humbled it in 1661, and since that time it has always been subject to the Bishops its Sovereigns. ’Twas at _Munster_ that was held the famous Assembly of _Westphalia_, which establish’d the Fortune of many Sovereigns, and the Religion of their Subjects. The Peace which was there sign’d serves also as a Basis for all the Treaties that are made at this time. The Treaty of _Munster_ imported in substance, “That _Maximilian_ Duke of _Bavaria_ should remain in Possession of the Electorate of the Counts Palatine, which had been given him by the Emperor _Ferdinand_ II: That _Charles Lewis_ Count Palatine should be restor’d to his Principality, and be created an eighth Elector for himself and his Descendants. That the Protestants should have their Churches and the free Exercise of their Religion, on the Footing as it was in 1624; and that they should retain the Church-Revenues, of which they had been possess’d ever since the first of _January_, that Year: That _Sweden_ should have Hither-_Pomerania_, a Part of the other _Pomerania_, the Island and Principality of _Rugen_, the Town and Port of _Wismar_, Archbishopric of _Bremen_, and the Bishopric of _Verden_, with the Title of a Duchy: That the Elector of _Brandenburg_ should have the Bishoprics of _Halberstadt_, _Minden_ and _Camin_, with the Farther-_Pomerania_: That _France_ should have the intire Sovereignty of _Metz_, _Toul_, and _Verdun_, and the Dependencies thereof, that of _Pignerol_ and _Brisac_, the Landgraviate of Upper and Lower _Alsace_, _&c._ That the Confederates should restore the Towns they had taken, and disband their Troops; and that the seven Circles of the Empire should furnish five Millions of Rixdollars for the Pay of the _Swedish_ Soldiers.” Such were the Conditions of this Peace, which was not very advantageous to the Catholic Religion.

The Bishop who had the See of _Munster_ while I was there, was of the Family of _Metternich_, and at the same time Bishop of _Paderborn_. I did not stay long in that City, but proceeded thro’ _Dusseldorff_, where I found the whole Court return’d from _Francfort_.

From thence I set out for COLOGNE[35], where M. _Happe_ who was appointed by the King to levy the Contributions which _Luxembourg_ and other neighbouring Countries were oblig’d to pay, entertain’d me very civilly, gave me an Apartment at his House, and made me exceeding welcome.

I stay’d some time in this City, which is a very flourishing Town by reason of its convenient Situation for the Trade of their Merchants, who have great Vessels constantly going up and down the _Rhine_, to _Francfort_ and _Holland_. ’Tis a pretty large City, but always very dirty and ill pav’d, and the Houses are for most part very old, and consequently dark and incommodious. The City is governed by a Senate, which does not depend on the Elector, whose Power is very much limited, he having no Authority but in Criminal Affairs; yet he is allow’d Sovereign Command for three Days, after which if he stays at _Cologne_ he is no more regarded than a private Gentleman. This is the reason that the Prince commonly resides at _Bonn_, and that he only goes to _Cologne_ on the Eves of the Grand Festivals, to officiate there. Nevertheless the City is oblig’d to pay Homage to the Elector, and to swear Fidelity to him, on Condition that he preserve them in the Enjoyment of their Privileges; which is a Condition that the Elector can scarce violate were he ever so much inclin’d to it, because ’tis the City that maintains the Garison, and is Mistress of the Arsenal.

The Catholic is the only Religion that is allow’d to be exercised at _Cologne_. Nor are Protestants admitted into the Senate, or any Employment in the City, but go to preach at _Mulheim_, a little Town in the Country of _Berg_, which belongs to the Elector-Palatine.

I had not the Honor of seeing the Elector, who by reason of the Misfortunes he had suffer’d in the late Wars, was oblig’d at that time to live in _France_. His Name was _Joseph-Clement_ of _Bavaria_. He possess’d the Bishoprics of _Hildesheim_ and _Liege_, together with the Archbishopric of _Cologne_. He died the 12th of _November_ 1723, after having caus’d his Nephew the Duke _Clement_ of _Bavaria_, Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_ to be chose Co-adjutor of _Cologne_.

The Archbishops of _Cologne_ are Great Chancellors of the Empire in _Italy_, but don’t officiate as such; for most of the Princes of _Italy_ pretend to be independent of the Empire, or call themselves perpetual Vicars thereof; and in this Quality they perform what the Emperor might do within the Extent of their Jurisdictions. This however extends only to common Cases, for in extraordinary ones they are oblig’d to have recourse to the Imperial Court. Then ’tis the Elector of _Mentz_ alone who officiates in quality of Chancellor of _Germany_; and ’tis he that has the Custody of the Archives and Titles which relate to _Italy_.

The Electors of _Cologne_ for a long time contested with those of _Mentz_ the Right of consecrating the Emperors, tho’ the latter pretend this Honor belongs to them, as Primates of _Germany_. But the Differences between those Princes have been regulated; and they have agreed that either of them, in whose Diocese the Emperor happens to be crown’d, should consecrate him; and that if the Coronation should be perform’d in neither of their Dioceses, then they should take it by turns. Nevertheless after this Accommodation the Elector of _Cologne_ consecrated the Emperor _Leopold_ in 1658, at _Francfort_ a City in the Diocese of _Mentz_; but it was done with the Consent of the Elector of _Mentz_, and without making it a Precedent for the future.

I have observ’d, that at _Cologne_ most of the public Buildings are either Churches or Convents. The Metropolitan Church would be one of the most magnificent in all _Germany_, were it finish’d. Among other stately Tombs here is that of the _Three Kings_ who came to worship the Savior of the World, whose Bodies they say were remov’d from _Constantinople_ to _Milan_, and from thence brought hither. All the People have a very great Veneration for these Reliques.

Except the Churches and the Monasteries one sees no public Structures, nor any House fine enough to raise a Stranger’s Admiration; here is still to be seen the House where Death put an end to the Misfortunes of _Mary de Medicis_, Queen of _France_, who came to _Cologne_ for Refuge from the Persecution of Cardinal _Richelieu_. This Cardinal, tho’ he was oblig’d to that Princess for his prodigious Wealth, was not content with having forc’d her to quit the Kingdom of _France_, but abridg’d her even of the Necessaries of Life; insomuch that ’twas a hard matter for her to find a Butcher that would undertake to serve the Table of that unfortunate Princess with Meat. She died the 3d of _July_, 1643.

After I had amused my self with seeing what was to be seen in the City of _Cologne_, I long’d so much to see that famous City _Paris_, that I set out thither very soon. I forgot to tell you that the Out-works of _Cologne_, especially the Ramparts are very agreeable. There are noble Rows of Elms which serve for Walks, and terminate in a Kay that runs along the _Rhine_, and would be a very fine one, if it was not disfigur’d by a Half-moon, which has been cut out to cover the Gate of the _Rhine_, and to secure the Passage of the Flying-Bridge.

When I set out from _Cologne_ I went down the _Rhine_ and the _Vahal_, as far as _Dort_, and from thence (without once going ashore) to ANTWERP, which City I take to be the most beautiful of all the _Netherlands_. It makes a part of _Austrian Brabant_, and is the Capital of the Marquisate of the Holy Empire. ’Tis situate in a great Plain on the Right-side of the _Schelde_, at a Place where that River separates the Duchy of _Brabant_ from the County of _Flanders_. It contains a number of Churches built in a very good Taste, and a great many very noble public Edifices. The Church of our Lady, which is the Cathedral, is a Work that has nothing like it except it be in _Italy_. ’Tis above 500 Feet in length, 240 in breadth, and 340 in height. It contains Sixty-six Chapels, adorn’d with Marble Columns, all different, and with fine Paintings. The Tower which serves for the Steeple is very lofty and perfectly beautiful.

The most magnificent of the Churches, next to the Cathedral, was that of the _Jesuits_, which was consum’d by Lightning the 18th of _July_, 1718. The Pavement was of Marble, in Compartiments. There were two low Isles, one above the other, which were supported by fifty-six Marble Pillars. The four Arches were clos’d with thirty-eight great Pictures in gilt Frames, and the Walls in which there were forty Windows were lin’d with Marble. The great Roof was of very fine carv’d Work, charg’d with a small Dome, very lightsome and very well made. As to the High Altar it would require an able Connoisseur to give such a Description of it as the Beauty of the Workmanship requires: For my own part all I can say of it is, that ’twas all over Marble, Jasper, Porphyry, and Gold. The Picture represented the Assumption of the Virgin _Mary_, and was a complete Piece. Our Lady’s Chapel, which was a part of the same Church, was as rich as the rest of the Building, the Sides and the Roof of it being fac’d with Marble, and adorn’d with six Statues of Alabaster. Besides this Chapel there were fifty others, all of the utmost Magnificence. The Great Gate of the Church, and the _Jesuits_ College adjoining to it, were answerable to the Beauty of the Structure. All this stately Building was entirely destroy’d; and what is most to be pitied, the Pictures of the famous _Rubens_, of which this Church was full, were destroy’d with it; a Loss the more considerable, because ’tis not to be repair’d; for as to the rest, they are preparing to build a Church as magnificent as the former.

There are several other fine Edifices at _Antwerp_, of which I don’t undertake the Description. I shall only mention a Word or two of the Town-House and the Exchange. The former stands in a great Square, encompass’d with fine Houses. Tho’ the Building is quite in the _Gothic_ Taste, yet ’tis a noble Monument of the Wealth of those who founded it. The Exchange is worth seeing, on account of the Galleries round the Square, in which the Merchants assemble as they do at _Amsterdam_, from 12 o’clock till half an hour past 1.

The Citadel or Castle of _Antwerp_ was formerly reckon’d one of the strongest and most regular Citadels in _Europe_; but the Works which _Lewis_ XIV. caus’d to be made in the _Netherlands_, and upon all the Frontiers of the Kingdom, have very much sunk the Reputation of the ancient Fortifications. ’Twas in the Square of this Castle, which was built by Order of the Duke of _Alva_, that he caus’d that famous Statue of Brass to be erected, which would have been an eternal Monument of his Pride and Cruelty, if it had not been pull’d down and broke to pieces by the Populace, as soon as the Duke quitted the _Netherlands_ by Order of his Master K. _Philip_ II. ’Tis said that while he commanded in this Country, he caus’d above 18000 Persons to be executed by the common Hangman.

Next to the Citadel, I cannot help giving you some Account of the Harbor, which is very beautiful and commodious. Here is a very large Square, where, by the Help of a certain Machine, they easily unload all the Goods. Another good Conveniency, and what contributes to render this a very trading City, is, that besides the River there are eight great Canals, by which Ships may enter into the City. Yet notwithstanding all these Conveniencies, the Trade of _Antwerp_, tho’ considerable, is not near so flourishing now, as it was before the Civil Wars, and the new Opinions in Affairs of Religion. ’Tis even astonishing how this City could hold up its Head again after the Calamities it suffer’d, even from its own Sovereign, whose Troops in 1576, burnt above 600 Houses in _Antwerp_; and while the unfortunate Inhabitants were running, as it were, into the midst of the Flames, to rescue their best Effects, the _Spaniards_ fell upon ’em, and kill’d and drown’d near 10000. This terrible Fire was the total Ruin of _Antwerp_; the Town-House and several noble Palaces were reduc’d to Ashes; and the immense Riches which they contain’d were carry’d off by Plunderers, who pillag’d for three Days, during which they committed all manner of Outrages. Nevertheless, this unhappy City, which had like to have been buried for ever under its own Ashes, was rais’d to Life again some time after by the Confederates, who remain’d, as it were, its Sovereigns, till 1585, when the Prince of _Parma_ took it from them, after a Siege that lasted near twelve Months, and was one of the most famous Sieges that had ever been known before, as well upon account of the few Troops the Duke of _Parma_ had to carry it on, which in all were but 1200 Men, as for that famous Dyke by which he shut up the Harbor, and for the Bridge which he laid over the _Scheld_.

_Antwerp_ remain’d under the Dominion of the House of _Austria_ from that Time to the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, when it was oblig’d to receive a _French_ Garison in the Name of _Philip_ V. whom the Elector of _Bavaria_, Governor of the _Netherlands_, own’d for King of _Spain_. But by the Battle of _Ramellies_, _Antwerp_ and a part of the _Netherlands_ were reduc’d under the Dominion of the Emperor. During the War that was enter’d into for the _Spanish_ Monarchy, a Battle was fought in the Neighbourhood of _Antwerp_, near the Village of _Ekeren_, for which both Parties sung _Te Deum_.

Having set out from _Antwerp_ to pursue my Journey to _Paris_, I pass’d thro’ MECHLIN[36], which is a very fine City, and the See of an Archbishop, whose Revenue is very considerable. The Metropolitan Church is dedicated to St. _Rambaut_. This City is the Seat of a Great Royal Council, which is, as it were, the Parliament of the Country, and was establish’d by _Charles_ Duke of _Burgundy_ in 1473. _Mechlin_ is famous for the Lace made there, which is finer and better than any that is made in the other Towns of the _Netherlands_.

From _Mechlin_ I went to BRUSSELS[37], the Capital of the Duchy of _Brabant_. This City stands on the little River _Senna_, that falls into the _Scheld_ by the Canal of _Vilvorde_, and divides the lower Town by several Canals that terminate in the said Canal of _Vilvorde_, which is very convenient for their Trade, whereof this City has a considerable Share. There are several Manufactures at _Brussels_, of which that of _Devos_ for Tapistry is worth seeing; that skilful Operator having carried his Art to the utmost degree of Perfection that the Curious can desire. The common People of _Brussels_ are more polite than in any other City of the _Netherlands_; for most of the Nobility of the Country come hither commonly to pass the Winter; and there are few Families of Note that have not a House here.

The Royal Palace is very large, and the Apartments beautiful, tho’ very old. This Palace stands high above the City, being situate upon a Hill, from whence there is a noble Prospect, which is diversify’d by the Gardens, and the Park that joins to the Palace, wherein there are several very pleasant Walks, adorn’d with fine Grottos and Fountains.

The Town-house is another very fine Building. It stands in a Square, encompass’d with Grand Houses, built after _Brussels_ was bombarded by the _French_, under the Command of the Marshal _de Villeroy_, when this Quarter of the Town in particular suffer’d very great Damage; but it is since become the more agreeable by the magnificent Houses built where the old ones stood.

I left _Brussels_ to go to Mons the Capital City of _Hainault_, which stands upon a Hill, on the Banks of the little River of _Trouil_, and is one of the strongest Places in the Low-Countries. _Lewis_ XIV. besieg’d it in Person, and took it in 1691. It was restor’d to _Spain_ by the Peace of _Ryswic_, but afterwards at the Death of _Charles_ II. King of _Spain_, it return’d as well as all the Low-Countries under the Dominion of _France_. But at length after the Battle of _Malplaquet_, it became subject to the House of _Austria_. In this City there’s a famous Abbey of Nuns, which is a very honorable Retreat for young Women of Quality, who are Orphans, or don’t care to be dependant on their Parents. They wear the Habit of Nuns in the Morning, to be present at the Office; but in the Afternoon they dress like Gentlewomen; and they make no Vow.

From _Mons_ I went to VALENCIENNES[38], which City is a part of the Province of _Hainault_, and the chief Town of _French Flanders_. Its beautiful Fortifications display the same Magnificence that was always observ’d in all the Works erected in the Reign of _Lewis_ XIV. That Monarch besieg’d _Valenciennes_ in Person, in the Year 1677; and after having taken it by Storm, caus’d a strong Citadel to be erected in it at the Expence of the Inhabitants. This City had been besieg’d by the Marshals _Turenne_ and _La Ferte_ in the Year 1656; but Don _John_ of _Austria_, the Governor of the _Netherlands_, accompanied by the Prince of _Condé_, who at that time, bore Arms against the King, made them raise the Siege; and in this Expedition the Marshal _de la Ferte_ was taken Prisoner.

The late Elector of _Cologne_ liv’d at _Valenciennes_ when I was there, the Casualties of the War having oblig’d him to quit his own Dominions. I was introduc’d to that Prince by the Prince _de Tingri_, when his Electoral Highness gave me a favorable Reception, and told me that he knew my Father; but I plainly perceiv’d by what he said, that this Prince would have been as glad to be in his City of _Bonn_, as in a Town of _France_.

I stay’d at _Valenciennes_ three Days, after which I set out for CAMBRAY[39]. This City is the Capital of the _Cambresis_, and one of the strongest Places in _Europe_. They say its Original is very ancient; for some Authors pretend, that _Camber_ King of the _Sicambri_ was the Founder of it. The Kings of _France_ conquer’d it, and were Masters of it a long while. After the Death of _Charles_ the _Bald_, it was for some time a Bone of Contention between the Emperor, the King of _France_, and the Earls of _Flanders_; but the latter seiz’d it, and the Emperors afterwards declar’d it a free City of the Empire. _Francis_ I. King of _France_ granted it a Neutrality; but the Emperor _Charles_ V. made himself Master of it; and afterwards during the Revolutions of the _Netherlands_, it fell under the Dominion of the Duke _d’Alençon_, Brother to _Henry_ III. who restor’d it to the _French_ by a Treaty, which he concluded with _John de Montluc_, whom King _Henry_ IV. afterwards made Prince of _Cambray_. Not long after this, the _Spaniards_ took it by surprize, and kept it till 1677, when Lewis XIV. took it, and it has remain’d ever since in the Possession of _France_, which Crown has considerably augmented its Fortifications.

_Cambray_ has the Title of an Archbishopric, which was erected in 1559, by Pope _Paul_ II. at the Request of _Philip_ II. King of _Spain_. The Suffragans granted to this Metropolitan were the Bishoprics of _Arras_, _Tournay_, _St. Omer_ and _Namur_, which were anciently Suffragan Sees to the Church of _Rheims_. The Archbishop takes the Title of _Duke of_ Cambray, _Count of the_ Cambresis, _and Prince of the Holy Empire_. He that was the Archbishop while I was there, was the illustrious M. _de Fenelon_, a Prelate as venerable for his Piety, as for the Delicacy of his Pen. The present Archbishop is the natural Son of the late Duke of _Orleans_ the Regent, and was formerly Bishop and Duke of _Laon_. This Prelate fully answers the vast Hopes that were conceiv’d, from his good Qualities in his Non-age. His Predecessor in this Dignity was the famous Cardinal _Dubois_, the Minister of _France_.

I forgot to tell you, that the City of _Cambray_ is also of great Note for the famous League that was concluded between the Pope, the Emperor _Maximilian_, _Lewis_ XII. King of _France_, and _Ferdinand_ King of _Arragon_, against the Republic of _Venice_.

From _Cambray_ I went to ST. QUINTIN, which City is the Capital of the _Vermandois_, and is of Note for the famous Battle of _St. Quintin_, call’d also the Battle of St. _Lawrence_, because ’twas fought on the 10th of _August_, in 1557. After the Truce was broke between _Henry_ II. King of _France_, and _Philip_ II. King of _Spain_, _Philibert-Emanuel_ Duke of _Savoy_, who was Governor of the _Netherlands_, besieg’d the City of _St. Quintin_, which was destitute of Troops, and moreover in a very bad Condition. The Admiral _Coligni_ got into it with some Forces, which gave Time to the Constable _de Montmorency_ to pass the _Somme_ with the _French_ Army under his Command, and throw some Succours into the Town. This was executed indeed, but with so much Precipitation, that the Men who entered it were scarce five hundred in number. The Constable perceiving the Approach of the _Spaniards_, and his Troops being moreover incumber’d with their Equipage, endeavored to make his Retreat; but the Duke taking advantage of his Incumbrance, surpriz’d him between the Villages of _Essigny_ and _Rizerolles_, and charg’d him home before he had Time to put his Men into Order of Battle; and the Constable and his Son were taken Prisoners, with a great many Persons of Distinction. The Number of the Slain was even greater than that of the Prisoners; and among the former was _John_ of _Bourbon_, Duke of _Anguien_, a Prince of the Blood Royal, and above 600 Gentlemen. The _Spaniards_ Loss did not exceed 500 Men. _Philip_ II. in acknowledgment for this Victory, made that extraordinary Vow, which he afterwards perform’d, to build the Monastery of St. _Lawrence_ at the _Escurial_; upon which a certain Ambassador of _France_, when he was shew’d that stately Edifice, said, _That +Philip+ must needs be terribly afraid when he made so considerable a Vow_. After the Battle, _St. Quintin_ surrender’d to the _Spaniards_, who kept it till the Treaty of _Chateau-Cambresis_, in 1559.

From _St. Quintin_ I went to COMPIEGNE, a City in the Diocese of _Soissons_, which is situate on the West side of the _Oyse_ and the _Aisne_. The famous Maid of _Orleans_ ow’d the Loss of her Liberty to this City. For that illustrious Heroine going to the Relief of _Compiegne_, which the _English_ had resolv’d to besiege, had the Misfortune to fall into their hands, and was carried Prisoner to _Roan_, where they burnt her for a Witch. ’Twas at the Castle of _Compiegne_ that the Cardinal _de Richlieu_ kept the Queen _Mary de Medicis_ a Prisoner, till that Princess found Means to escape, and to retire to _Flanders_. I have had the Honor already to tell you, that this unfortunate Queen died at _Cologn_.

This same Castle was also for some time the Residence of the Elector of _Bavaria_, after he was ejected out of his Dominions by the victorious Arms of the Emperor. The Court his Electoral Highness kept here was so splendid, that it did not look like the Court of a Refugee Prince.

Near _Compiegne_ there’s a very large Forest, which renders the Neighbourhood of this City very pleasant. There are fine Roads cut out in this Forest, which render it very convenient for Hunting.

The only considerable Place from _Compiegne_ to _Paris_ is SENLIS; and that purely on account of its being the See of a Bishop: for setting aside its Situation, which is very agreeable, by reason of the Neighbourhood of the beautiful Forest of _Chantilly_, _Senlis_ is a very trifling Place. Near this City is the Abbey of our _Lady of Victory_, which _Philip Augustus_ caus’d to be built as an Acknowledgment for the Victory he won in Person at _Bouvines_, over the Emperor _Otho_ IV. and his Confederates, on _Sunday July_ 27th, 1215; upon which very Day, his Son too won another Battle over the _English_ in _Anjou_. They say that the two Couriers that were carrying the News of each of the Victories, from the one Army to the other, met at the very Place where now stands the Church of this Abbey.

Betwixt _Senlis_ and _Paris_ there stands the little Town of St. DENYS, famous for the magnificent Abbey which gives Name to it. In this Church are the Tombs of the Kings and Princes of _France_, whose Mausoleums are of rich Workmanship. Here is a Treasure also which contains a great Number of very curious Pieces. The Abbey of St. _Denys_ has also given its Name to the great Plain in which it stands. ’Twas in this Plain that the famous Battle was fought between the Catholics and Hugonots, in the Reign of _Charles_ IX. when the Constable _Montmorency_, who at the Age of 83, commanded the Catholics, was wounded, but gain’d the Victory over the Heretics.

At my leaving _St. Denys_, I had at length the pleasure of seeing what I had a long time passionately wish’d for, I mean the famous City of PARIS[40], where I arriv’d about the beginning of the Year 1712. I make no scruple to call it the chief City of the World, as it is the Capital of the chief Kingdom in Christendom. The Extent of its Circumference, the Beauty of its Buildings, the Multitude of its Inhabitants, the continual Arrival and the Residence of Foreigners there, the Variety and Plenty of Commodities of all sorts, render it the finest City in the World; and on those Accounts ’tis justly reckon’d as the Ornament, the Soul and the Strength of the _French_ Empire. I was not willing however to make any stay here at first, because of my Impatience to see the famous Castle of VERSAILLES, so much talk’d of at all Foreign Courts.

I had entertain’d so grand an Idea of this Palace, and was so fully persuaded of its being all over Gold and Azure, that at the first Sight the Beauty of it did not strike me. The Entrance to _Versailles_, as one comes from _Paris_, does not set it off at all, tho’ the Avenue that leads to it is one of the most magnificent; but when one comes up to the Castle, and turns about towards this Grand Avenue, the two sumptuous Stables on the sides of it form a Prospect, which gives a sublime Idea of the Master of those stately Piles of Building. The Front of the Castle, which looks towards the Gardens is the finest; and on that Side is the superb Gallery, which is the Admiration of all Foreigners. What most surpriz’d me at _Versailles_ is the Inside of the Castle, which if one examines it well, looks like several Castles join’d together. The Royal Family, which was still pretty numerous, was lodg’d there very much at their Ease, each having their Guard-Chamber, an Anti-Chamber, a Presence-Chamber, a Bed-Chamber, and Great Closet and Wardrobes. The chief Officers and Ladies attending the Princesses were also commodiously lodg’d. The greatest part of the Lords of the Court had Lodgings too here, which were indeed pretty much straiten’d for want of room, but very convenient. In short, I was assur’d, that when _Lewis_ XIV. was at _Versailles_, about 20,000 Persons lay every Night in the Body of this Castle, and the Buildings in the Verge of it, the Apartments and other Lodgings being so well laid out, that all this great Multitude did not croud one another.