Chapter VII: Part 7

The finest Pieces in the Inside of the Castle are the Gallery and the Saloons that join to it. The Walls are lin’d with Marble. Every Place shines with the Works of the greatest Masters in Gold and Brass, and with noble Pier-Glasses. I have heard say, that before the War for the _Spanish_ Succession, all the Tables, Chandeliers and Stands, which are now of Marble and gilt Frames, were of Massy Silver; but the King converted them into Money to help defray the vast Expences of the Wars he was then engaged in. The Cieling of the Gallery represents in several Pictures the principal Actions of _Lewis_ the XIVth’s Life; and is also adorn’d with Cartridges and Gildings, which are remarkable both for their Richness and their Elegance.

The Chapel is perfectly answerable to the Magnificence of the Inside of the Castle. The Critics indeed think ’tis too lofty for its Bigness; and without pretending to much Skill in Architecture, of which what I now say is perhaps a Proof, I should readily subscribe to their Opinion. Indeed a Man ought to be plac’d in the Pew from whence the King hears Mass, to have a just View of the fine Paintings with which the Cieling is enrich’d; and than which there’s nothing to be seen that is finer or better fancy’d. The principal Picture represents God the Father in all his Glory, as fully as Human Weakness can conceive it. This is a piece of Painting I am never weary of admiring; and I found some new Pleasure every time I look’d on it. The Cieling is supported by noble Pillars of a white Stone, as beautiful as Marble, which form a Gallery that runs round the Chapel, of an equal height all along with the King’s Pew, and the Ballisters are of yellow Copper and Marble. When one looks down from the Pew, the Chapel seems too low, and the Great Altar not high enough. Opposite to the King’s Pew, and exactly over the High Altar, there’s an Organ-Loft of a very good Contrivance, where the King’s Music sits. ’Tis a very good Band; and those who are nice Judges always admire the first Touch they give to their Instruments, the Moment that the King enters the Chapel to hear Mass.

I own to you, _Madame_, that I thought it one of the finest Sights in the World, to see _Lewis_ XIV. enter the Chapel in all his Grandeur, attended by the Cardinals and the Lords of his Court. The Life-Guards and the Hundred _Swiss_ took up the Gallery and the Bottom of the Chapel, and the Drums beat, and the _Swiss_ Fifes play’d till his Majesty was seated. On Communion or Sermon Days the King went down into the Chapel, and then the Pavement, which is of very fine Marble, was cover’d all over with noble Tapestry. When the King receiv’d the Sacrament, a Praying-Desk was set for him over-against the High Altar, and then the Hundred _Swissers_ were rang’d in two Rows, and the Courtiers encompass’d his Majesty. During the Sermon the King’s Chair of State was plac’d over-against the Pulpit, and the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family and Blood were seated in Folding Chairs, on both sides of the King in the same Line. But the Princes and Princesses very seldom assisted at the King’s Mass; and when they did, they kneel’d leaning on the same Ballustrade that the King did, but quite off of his Carpet.

The Gardens of _Versailles_ may be rank’d among the modern Wonders; and I don’t believe that the so much boasted Gardens of the superb _Semiramis_ were finer. For really, considering the Statues, Vases and Water-works of Marble and Brass, one wou’d think Pains had been taken to ransac _Greece_ and _Rome_ it self, both ancient and modern, for its most wonderful Productions on purpose to bring them to this charming Place. These Gardens were plann’d by the famous _Le Nautre_. At the end of the Great Walk which fronts the Castle there’s a very spacious Canal. It forms a Cross to a certain Distance, one side of which leads to the _Menagerie_, and the other to _Trianon_. The _Menagerie_ is a very little House with only a few Rooms, from whence the King may see the rarest Animals of all sorts, which are kept there. As for _Trianon_ and its Gardens, one would not think at the first View that they were made by Man. The Whole is perfectly inchanting, and a Person ever so little captivated with the strange Tales of the Fairies, wou’d not scruple to think this magnificent Structure the Master-piece of those ingenious Work-women. The whole Building, to outward Appearance, seems very small; but when one examines the Inside of it, the Apartments are both spacious and commodious. The Outside of this Palace is partly hid by fine Groves; what appears of it is fac’d with white Marble, adorn’d with an Order of Pilasters of red Marble, with Windows in form of Arches between them. _Lewis_ XIV. often retir’d to this charming Solitude, to be shelter’d from the Importunities of the Courtiers; and no body was admitted to him but such Persons as his Majesty appointed.

A little League from _Versailles_ there’s _Marly_, another Royal Palace; and which of all the Palaces has the most pleasant Gardens, tho’ those of _Versailles_ are by much more sumptuous. The Great Cascade, which is all of Marble of various Colors, makes a stately Appearance. When one is at the Top of this Cascade, and looks toward the Palace, one sees all the Gardens, and a Plain thro’ which the River _Seine_ winds itself, having on one side the Castle of _St. Germain en Laye_; and on the other the Castle _de Maisons_, belonging to the President of that Name, which forms an admirable Point of View. _Lewis_ XIV. who was fond of _Marly_, condescended to divest himself there of part of his Grandeur, and did a great many Ladies of Quality the Honor to make them sit down with him at Table. Thus, _Madame_, have I given you a slight Sketch of the famous Palace of _Versailles_, and its Neighbourhood. I did not think it so proper to give you an exact Detail of the Beauties one discovers at every Step in this magnificent Palace. You have undoubtedly seen a good Description of them already, in the Books printed upon that Subject. I shall now add a Word or two of the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family.

I shall not presume to say any thing of the August Head of this illustrious Family, since it wou’d require a more delicate Pen than mine to treat so sublime a Subject with suitable Dignity. All that I shall do my self the Honor to Say to you of _Lewis_ XIV. is, that if a good Mien was to be the Merit for the Crown of _France_, this Great Prince might have put in his Claim for it upon that account, as justly as on the account of his Birth. He was already advanc’d in years in 1712, when I had the Honor to see him; and yet he had a nobler Air than any Man in his Kingdom.

The Duke of _Burgundy_, who became Dauphin of _France_, by the Death of his Father, _Lewis_ XIVth’s Son, who was the year before carried off in a very few days by the Small-Pox at his Palace of _Meudon_, was the first Prince in the Kingdom next to the King. His Great Qualities prognosticated that if he liv’d, his Reign wou’d be very happy: Being Devout, without neglecting any of the Duties of a Prince, he had a way of reconciling the Retirement of a Cloyster to the Bustle of a Court; and tho’ he had the Great Affair of his Salvation always at heart, yet he thought, and justly too, that his Practice of Piety ought not to exclude his Application to the Affairs of State. He married a Princess, whose great Qualities wou’d have made the _French_ happy, if an untimely Death had not snatch’d her away in the Flower of her Age. Her Name was _Mary Adelaide_ of _Savoy_. I can assure you, _Madame_, that I never saw one that had a more Noble and Majestic Presence than this Princess. And several Ladies that had the Honor of being with her in private assur’d me, that none could be more sprightly and gay. Her Youth made her fond of Pleasures; but yet she never was forgetful of her Duties. She had an extraordinary Respect and Regard for the King. She went every Evening to Madame _de Maintenon_’s Apartment when the King was there, and after the Council was over, she put every thing in practice that her gay Humor cou’d imagine to divert him. The Princess had also a particular Esteem for the Dauphin her Husband, and as this Prince never fail’d of being at Mass, nor at Vespers, or the Evening Prayers, the Dauphiness always went with him, and very readily made her Pleasures give place to her Duties.

I had not been long at the Court of _France_ when this illustrious Couple died within a few days of one another. The first who paid that Tribute to Nature was the Dauphiness. This Princess fell sick at _Versailles_, soon after which the Purples discover’d themselves; and at length her Distemper appearing desperate, she was admonish’d to prepare for Death: but this was Advice she could not find in her heart to comply with, it being a hard matter to renounce a voluptuous Life; especially when supported with the Hopes of being e’er long possess’d of one of the first Crowns in the World. This Princess died, as it were, in the Arms of the Duchess of _Orleans_, who by her Desire never left her during all the time of her Illness.

The King, who was very much afflicted for her Death, set out immediately for _Marly_, whither the Dauphin follow’d him. This Prince knowing the Value of the Jewel he had lost, so indulg’d his Grief that he sicken’d almost as soon as he arriv’d at _Marly_, of the same Distemper that had just depriv’d him of his Consort. He received the Sentence of his Death with a Resolution truly Christian; and in the Height of his Distemper was often heard to put up this Petition, _My God! save the King and Government_. The Night he died he had a very great Desire to hear Mass; and whatever they could say to convince him that the Rules of the Church did not allow it to be celebrated at that Hour, yet he wou’d not take a Denial; so that as soon as the Midnight Bell rung, Mass was said in his Chamber, at an Altar that was put up at his Bed’s feet. After the Elevation of the Host, the Dauphin was very much compos’d, and continu’d praying to God till his Strength failing him every Minute more and more, he gave up the Ghost. This happen’d on the 18th of _February_ 1712, six Days after the Death of the Dauphiness.

The King had need of all his Stock of Courage to support so many Shocks one after another. The Royal Family was in the utmost Consternation. Those that were about the King wou’d fain have persuaded him to retire elsewhere a little while for Change of Air; but he answered undauntedly, _That he was every where in the Hands of God_; _and that therefore he would continue where he was_. This great Prince had soon after, another Trial of his Patience, by the News he receiv’d of the Death of the Duke of _Bretagne_, who upon the Decease of his Father had been declar’d the Dauphin. This young Prince died at _Versailles_ the 8th of _March_ 1712, when he was but five Years old. There never was a more sorrowful Scene than to see the Funeral Pomp of this Year, which serv’d at the same time for the Father, Mother and Son.

The only one that remain’d of this August Stock was the Duke of _Anjou_ now _Lewis_ XV. This Prince too, who was but a Child, was such a poor Weakling all along, that no body thought he would live; and he was at this time in such a bad way, that the very Physicians despair’d of his Recovery. Nevertheless he insensibly gathered Strength, and now the _French_ see their young Monarch in a more vigorous State of Health than they could have hoped for in his Childhood: For this I believe they are oblig’d to the great Care which was taken of this young Prince by the Duchess of _Ventadour_, who was charg’d with his Education, in which Post she acquitted herself with all the Zeal that a Person could do, who knew the Value of that precious Deposit which was committed to her trust.

The next to the Throne after this young Prince was the Duke of _Berry_, Brother to the Duke of _Burgundy_. He was of a fair Complexion, and for his Age a little too corpulent. He spent his time chiefly in Hunting, and when the Chace was over he us’d to go to his Duchess’s Apartments to game; for this Princess, after the Death of the Duchess of _Burgundy_, kept an Assembly.

The last Prince of the Royal Family was the Duke of _Orleans_, afterwards Regent of the Kingdom; of whom I shall have occasion to say more, when at the death of _Lewis le Grand_ he took on him the Government of the Kingdom during the present Monarch’s Minority.

The first People at Court next to the Princes of the Royal Family, were the Princes of the Blood. The chief was the Duke of _Chartres_, now Duke of _Orleans_, by the Death of his Father who was the Regent of _France_ during the Minority of _Lewis_ XV.

The Duke of _Bourbon_, and the Counts _de Charolois_ and _Clermont_ compos’d the _Condé_ Branch. The first of these Princes whom they call only _The Duke_, was a tall portly Man, very free and easy, but had the misfortune to lose one Eye when he was a hunting by some small Shot that scatter’d from the Duke of _Berry_’s Fowling-piece, as he let fly at some Game.

The other two Princes were well-shap’d and very fair, but being as yet very young, they were as well as the Duke of _Chartres_ in the hands of their Governors.

The Prince of _Conti_, Son of him who was formerly decked King of _Poland_, was the only Prince of the second Branch of _Bourbon_.

These, _Madame_, were the Princes that then composed the Court of _France_. I shall now do myself the Honor to give you some account of the Princesses according to their Rank, distinguishing them as I have done the Princes, by the Titles of Princesses of the Royal Family, and Princesses of the Blood.

The first Princess of the Royal Family was the Dauphiness, whom I have had the Honor to mention to you.

Next to the Dauphiness, the Duchess of _Berry_ was first in Rank. This Princess was the Daughter of the Duke of _Orleans_, afterwards the Regent. She resembled her Father very much for her Wit, and had she not been a little too bulky she would have been one of the most amiable Princesses of the whole Court. I shall have occasion to let you into this Princess’s Character presently.

_Madame_, the second Wife of _Philip_ of _Orleans_, Brother to _Lewis_ XIV. was the third Princess at Court, during the Life of the Dauphiness. Her Name was _Elizabeth-Charlotte_ of _Bavaria_; being the Daughter of the Elector _Charles-Lewis_ by _Charlotte_ of _Hesse_, and the last of the illustrious Branch of the Palatine Family. The Court I constantly pay’d to this Princess, to whom I was moreover well recommended by the Electoress of _Hanover_ Mother to the King of _England_, enables me to tell you some Particulars which will give you a just Notion of her.

This Princess was very affable, yet not very forward to grant her Protection. She talk’d a great deal, and talk’d well. She lov’d especially to speak in her Mother-Tongue, which she had not forgot tho’ she had been fifty Years in _France_, for which reason she was overjoy’d to see her Countrymen, and to correspond with them by Letters. She was very punctual in writing to the Electoress of _Hanover_, and to several other Personages in _Germany_; and the Letters she commonly wrote were not little Billets, but took up twenty or thirty Sheets of Paper. Of these I had a sight of several that would have been worth publishing, and have not seen any thing better writ in the _German_ Tongue. In short, this Princess did nothing but write from Morning till Night. Immediately after she rose, which was always about ten o’clock, she sate down at her Toilet. From thence she went into her Closet, where after having spent some time in Prayer, she took Pen and Ink and wrote till she went to Mass. After this was ended, she wrote again till Dinner-time, which did not last long, and then she fell to writing again till ten o’clock at Night. About nine o’clock when she received Company in her Closet she was found sitting at a great Table spread with Papers, and there was an _Ombre_ Table just by it, at which the Marshal _de Cleremhault_’s Lady and the other Ladies of the Princess’s Houshold used to play. Every now and then the Princess cast an Eye upon the Game, and would give her Advice and write at the same time. At other times she convers’d with those who paid their Court to her. I once saw this Princess napping, and the Moment after start out of her Sleep and write on. This, _Madame_, was the common Life of the Princess when she was at _Versailles_. Sometimes however she went out a hunting with the King, dress’d like an _Amazon_, and sometimes to the Opera. For this Princess was very fond of Plays, so that after the Death of _Lewis_ XIV. when the Court came to settle at _Paris_ she often made the _French_ and _Italian_ Comedians perform at the Theatre of the Royal Palace.

As to Rank, never did any Princess support it better than this. As she was punctual to the last degree in requiring the Honors due to her, so she return’d to every one the Honors that belong’d to them. I heard her once talk very sharply upon this head to the Duchess of _Berry_; and indeed none but she durst have talk’d to that Princess in such a Stile. It happen’d in _Lewis_ XVth’s Minority that the Duchess of _Berry_ came to her one Evening in a Scarf. After she had been there about half an Hour she ask’d Madame _de Mouchy_ what o’clock it was; whereupon the Princess ask’d the Duchess of _Berry_ what she said to Madame _de Mouchy_. The Duchess made her Answer, that she was going to the _Tuilleries_, and therefore she ask’d what time of Night it was. _How! to the_ Tuilleries, said Madame; _What are you going to take an Airing by the Light of Flambeaus?_ For, indeed, it was just Night. _No, Madame_, said the Duchess of _Berry_, _I am going to the King_. _To the King!_ reply’d Madame; _Pray excuse me for expressing my Surprize!_ _What, go to the King, +Madame+, in that Dress! I thought you knew your Duty to him better: I beseech you_, Madame, _do no such thing. Render to the King the Respect that you owe him, and then you will have a Right to challenge what is your due from every body else._

The Duchess of _Berry_, who was not pleas’d at this Reprimand, was going to reply, but Madame interrupted her, and said, _No_, Madame, _nothing can excuse you: Surely you may think fit to dress your self as seldom as you go to the King, since I that am your Grandmother dress my self every day. Speak the Truth, and say ’tis meer Laziness that hinders you from putting on your Clothes, which is a Fault that becomes neither your Age nor your Rank. A Princess ought to be dress’d like a Princess, and a Chambermaid like a Chambermaid._ The Duchess of _Berry_ being not us’d to such Lectures, was extremely mortify’d at being so check’d, and upon this occasion she did what she us’d to do when any thing was ever said that offended her, and when Decency did not permit her to make a haughty Reply; that is, she arose, made a low Curt’sy, and went away. Madame fell to writing again, but talk’d still of the same Subject, and not without some Warmth. She said, looking about to all the Company, _Was I in the wrong, pray, to talk as I did to the Duchess of_ Berry? _What say you to it?_ You will easily suppose, Madame, that nobody open’d their Lips, but while she was running on still in the same strain, to the great Confusion of every Soul in her Closet, the Princess of _Conti_ came in, which gave a Turn to the Conversation.

After _Lewis_ XIVth’s Death, Madame follow’d the Court to _Paris_, where she resided in the Winter, but commonly spent the fine Season at _St. Cloud_. From thence she came very often to the King’s Apartment, us’d to be at the Theatre, and return in the Evening to _St. Cloud_. She had then with her _Mademoiselle_, now the Abbess of _Chelles_, and _Mademoiselle de Valois_, now the Princess of _Modena_. The other Princesses, her Grandaughters, liv’d at _Paris_ with the Duchess of _Orleans_ their Mother. This Princess, tho’ the Mother of the Duchess of _Berry_, had not the Precedency of her, and when she was at her Daughter’s House she had only a Folding-Chair allowed her, whereas the Duchess sate in an Arm-Chair. The Duchess of _Orleans_ was the last of the Royal Family.

The first of the Princesses of the Blood was the Princess-Dowager of _Condé_, _Anne_ of _Bavaria_ Countess-Palatine, Daughter of _Edward_ Prince-Palatine of the _Rhine_. She was call’d only, Madame the Princess. She commonly resided at _Paris_, where she liv’d a very exemplary Life for her Piety and great Charity. She died the 23d of _February_, 1723, at seventy-five Years of Age.

This Princess was Mother to the Duke of _Bourbon_ (that died in 1710) whose Wife _Louisa-Francese_ of _Bourbon_, the legitimated Daughter of _Lewis_ XIV. was, I can assure you, Madame, one of the most beautiful Princesses of the Court; and tho’ already the Mother of eight Children, it was much more natural to take her for their Sister. With so much Beauty, she had also Charms still more preferable; and all these external Qualities were supported by a majestic Air, and a Deportment which gain’d this illustrious Princess Respect at the same time that her affable and obliging Behavior procured her Love. She had moreover a lively sparkling Wit, always sure to divert, whether in giving Merit its due Praise, or whether by her delicate Raillery, she expos’d the Ridicule of that Behavior, which notwithstanding the good Taste of the Age had perhaps made the Fortune of some fawning Courtier.

The next in Rank to that Princess was the first Dowager-Princess of _Conti_, the legitimated Daughter of _Lewis_ XIV. The Air, Shape and Beauty of this Princess, have made such a noise in the World, that I believe, Madame, you are not ignorant that she was reckon’d the tip-top Beauty of the Kingdom; and really tho’ she was pretty much advanc’d in Years, she had still that Air of Majesty and Modesty which partakes of the Grandeur of her Father, and of the exemplary Piety of her Mother in her latter Years. After the Death of _Lewis_ XIVth’s Son the Dauphin, this Princess was very much retir’d, so that I never saw her any where but at _Madame_’s Apartments; and since the Death of the King she scarce appears any where at all.

The Princess of _Conti_, the second Dowager is by Birth Princess of _Condé_. She is Mother of the Prince of _Conti_, of _Mademoiselle de Conti_, who died Duchess of _Bourbon_, and of _Mademoiselle de la Roche-sur-Yon_. It may be said that this Branch of _Bourbon_ have had their share of Sense and Virtue.

The Duchess of _Maine_ and the late Duchess of _Vendôme_ were Sisters of the second Dowager-Princess of _Conti_, and the Daughters of _Henry Julius_ Prince of _Condé_, and of the Princess-Palatine, whom I have already had the Honor to mention to you.

The Duchess of _Maine_ is a Princess of real Merit, and a great Wit. She degenerates in no respect from the illustrious Blood of _Condé_. She liv’d with more Splendor than any Princess of _France_. She commonly resided at _Seaux_, a magnificent Castle not far from _Paris_, and one of the finest that I have seen, not only for its commodious Apartments which are also richly furnish’d, but for the extent of the Park in which there’s such an agreeable Variety of Groves, and of Marble and Brazen Statues, as presents the curious Spectator always with something new. It may be said, that in her time the Pleasures had fix’d their Residence in this charming Place. There was a Resort from all parts to this Princess, and People were glad to leave both the Court and City, being sure of finding something at _Seaux_ better contriv’d than the common Representations on the Stage; and indeed they were never disappointed, the Duchess of _Maine_ having an exquisite Taste in such things; for she lov’d the fine Sciences, and was a better Judge than any body, of what they call Composures. This illustrious Princess took a delight in bespeaking Plays, and sometimes did not think it beneath her to act a part in them her self. The famous _Baron_ and _Beauval_ had often the Honor of performing with her. Those who have frequented the _French_ Theatre know full well that such a choice was a very evident Proof of that Princess’s Taste for good Declamation. After the Comedy there was generally a Party for Play, and then a magnificent Supper, after which there was sometimes a Fire-Work, but most commonly there was a Ball, at which there was always a vast Number of Masks; yet the whole was so well ordered, that there was plenty of Refreshments for every body.

These, _Madame_, were the Princes and Princesses who form’d the Court of _France_ when I came thither, and I thought ’twas proper to give you a Character of them before I mention’d the Conduct I observ’d at my Arrival there.

I first got my self introduc’d to Madame, to whom I was moreover recommended by the Electress of _Hanover_, the King of _England_’s Mother. This Princess, who always retain’d a particular Regard for the _Germans_, receiv’d me with even more kindness than she commonly shew’d to those of that Nation. She did me the Honor to introduce me to the King herself, one Night after his Majesty had supp’d. This Prince was in his Bed-Chamber, with all the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family. The King remember’d my Name, and did me the Honor to ask me, whether I was not the Son of one _Pollnitz_, who had been at his Court from the Elector of _Brandenbourg_? And upon my telling him that I was his Grandson, he said to me, _Indeed, you seem to me to be too young to be taken for his Son_. His Majesty then ask’d me if I intended to make any stay in _France_. I answer’d, that I was so overjoy’d to find myself at the Feet of the greatest of Kings, that I would do my self the Honor to pay my Duty to him as long as possible. The King seem’d to like my Answer, and turning towards Madame, he said to her, speaking of me, _He talks French well_. He afterwards did me the Honor of a Salute, and told me as he withdrew that he should take a pleasure in doing me Service.

Next day Madame introduc’d me to the Duke of _Burgundy_ the Dauphin, and to the Dauphiness, which illustrious Couple died some time after, as I have had the Honor to tell you. Madame also caus’d me to be introduc’d to the Duke and Duchess of _Berry_, but neither of ’em said one word to me. I was very well receiv’d by the Duke and Duchess of _Orleans_. It was not easy to see this Prince without loving him; for his Affability supported by a most sparkling Wit, and the most elegant Accomplishments, endear’d him to all that had the Honor of Access to him. This Prince constantly paid his Attendance at Court, and had the greatest Respect for Madame. He never miss’d a Day of waiting upon this Princess. He went to her Apartments every Night at half an Hour past eight, and play’d at Chess there till the King’s Supper-time; but this Prince only sate down at the Game, and as he went in and out he always kiss’d her Hand.

The Court of _France_, tho’ very splendid by reason of the number of Princes and Princesses of which it consists, was nevertheless not so gay as I expected. The Life at _Versailles_ was the most uniform in the World: The King’s Hours were settled, and he that had seen but one Day there had seen a Year. The King rose at nine or ten o’clock. The Princes and all the Courtiers attended his Levee, and after he was dress’d he kneel’d down to Prayers on a Cushion of Black Velvet, with his Chaplains and the Bishops that were at his Levee, kneeling also round him. When Prayers were ended, the King went into his Closet, where sometimes the Ministers came to speak to him about Business, and in the mean while the Courtiers walk’d in the great Gallery, thro’ which the King walk’d to hear Mass, and there all the Courtiers waited to be seen by his Majesty as he pass’d. I never saw a Nation more fond of paying their Attendance at Court than the _French_; for I have even seen many Courtiers, who thinking the Prince had not observ’d them, stept forwards into another Room, and then another, till by chance his Majesty happen’d to cast his Eyes upon them.

After Mass was over the King return’d to his Closet; sometimes he held a Council and afterwards din’d alone, at which time one might also observe how the Courtiers strove to be seen by him. The King eat with a good Appetite, nay I thought he eat voraciously. His Dinner lasted three Quarters of an Hour, and upon certain Days there was Music. After Dinner, the King went down by the Back-stairs, and took Coach to go a hunting in the Park of _Versailles_, which was full of small Game. He return’d about the Dusk of the Evening, and went to Madame _de Maintenon_’s Apartment, where there were only a few of the old Courtiers, and generally speaking, none but Ladies; as, Madame _de Caylus_, a Cousin of Madame _de Maintenon_, and Madame _de Dangeau_, who play’d at Cards with the King when the Ministers were not there; for then, instead of Gaming, Business was the Subject, and there every thing was commonly settled. At ten o’clock at Night, when word was brought to the King that Supper was serv’d up, his Majesty went to the Table, where the Princes and Princesses always accompanied him. The Duchesses were plac’d behind the Folding-Chairs of the Princes, on both sides of the Table; and the other Ladies of Quality stood on the Right hand of the King’s Arm-chair. His Majesty, after making a Bow to the Princes and Princesses and all the Ladies, sate down in his Chair, and then the Princes and Princesses took their Seats, as did also the Duchesses. The other Ladies of Quality pass’d into a Salon just by, where they were at liberty to sit down. The Supper lasted no longer than the Dinner: The King talk’d there but little, and sometimes he address’d himself to _Madame_, or to the Duchess of _Orleans_; but I never heard him speak to the Dukes of _Berry_ and _Orleans_, nor even to the Duchess of _Berry_.

After Supper was over, the King, preceded by the Princes, went into his Bed-Chamber, where he found such of the Ladies as were not Duchesses, to whom he put off his Hat, and then sate down by the Ballustrade that was before his Bed, where he stay’d till the Princesses and Duchesses were enter’d into the Room. I observ’d that the old Court-Ladies made a profound Curt’sy to the King’s Bed when they enter’d his Chamber, which the young Ladies did not; for being perhaps more puff’d up with their Youth and their Charms, they did not think themselves oblig’d to pay so much Respect. When the Duchesses who had attended at Supper enter’d to the King’s Bed-Chamber, the King made an Obeisance to them, as he did to the other Ladies; and then the King preceded by the Princes, and followed by the Princesses who had supp’d with him, went into his Closet, to which the Princes and Princesses of the Blood also repair’d. His Majesty convers’d with ’em for a while, during which the Duchesses and the other Ladies withdrew. At length the King dismiss’d the Princes and Princesses, and went to Bed. Then the Courtiers separated, and the Generality retir’d. Some went to the Duke of _Berry_’s Couchée, and others to the Duke of _Orleans_’s. Those who paid their Court to this Prince were well receiv’d by him. For my own part I went thither as often as I could, not so much to pay my Court to _Madame_, as from a natural liking I had to this Prince.

Thus, Madame, did the King pass his Life. The Pleasures of the Courtiers were at best but dull, Gaming being almost their whole Amusement. The Assembly was commonly held at the House of the Prince _d’Armagnac_ of _Lorrain_, Master of the Horse, where there was Play in the Afternoon. Foreigners were perfectly welcome to this Prince, as they were also to the Cardinal of _Roban_. The latter liv’d very magnificently, and at the Houses of these two Noblemen you were sure to see the Prime of the Nobility of _France_.

When the Court was at FONTAINBLEAU[41], ’twas much more gay than it was when at _Versailles_, where it may be said, that it shone in its full Lustre. Nevertheless tho’ _Fontainbleau_ is not near so magnificent, it has the Air of a Castle, which _Versailles_ has not. Moreover, Art and Nature seem to have acted in concert towards forming the magnificent Buildings which several Monarchs have caus’d to be erected at _Fontainbleau_: Whereas at _Versailles_ Nature seems to have had nothing to do, every thing being the Work of Art, and too much adorned. Perhaps I may be the only one of this Opinion, but I always thought that the Magnificence at _Versailles_ was too general.

I was at _Fontainbleau_ some time after the Conclusion of the Suspension of Arms with the _English_. The News of the Peace on the point of being concluded, and the Victory at _Denain_, seem’d to have restor’d to the Court such an Air of Gayety as had not been known there for many years. The Elector of _Bavaria_ was there at that time, and there was such Gaming at the Duchess of _Berry_’s and the Duke of _Antin_’s, as if they had no Sense at all of the public Calamities. The Party was of twelve Cutters at _Lansquenet_, who began with setting four Lewid’ors, and at last stak’d Rouleaus of a hundred Lewid’ors on a Card. I won seven hundred Lewid’ors there one Night, in less than an Hour’s time, and the Duchess _de la Ferte_ trick’d me out of no less than a hundred, besides fourscore that she borrow’d of me, and never paid me again. Perhaps she thought ’twas the best way to make herself amends for the Trouble she was pleas’d to take upon her, of setting my Money upon the Table, there being such a Croud of Ladies round it that I could not get near it.

While the Court was at _Fontainbleau_, who should come thither but Mr. _St. John_, since made Lord _Bolingbroke_, to settle the Plan of the Peace that was afterwards concluded at _Utrecht_. He could not have been better receiv’d than he was there if he had been a Sovereign Prince, for the King himself had an extraordinary Regard for him. I was one day to see his Majesty dine, when there was to be Music, but as soon as it struck up the King stopt it, by calling out aloud, _I am informed that M. +de St. John+ dines with the Duke of +Antin+. Let my Music wait on him there, and let him know that I send it to him, and that I wish it may give him Pleasure._ You will easily imagine, Madame, that all the Courtiers, in imitation of the Monarch, strove who should be most complaisant to the _English_ Minister, who for his part justly merited the Regard that was paid to him.

The Court stay’d at _Fontainbleau_ some time after the Arrival of this Minister, and all the while there was nothing but Merriment and a continual Succession of Pleasures. The Hunting-Matches were of the utmost Magnificence. The Ladies were there either on horseback or in Chaises in the Retinue of the Duchess of _Berry_ and _Madame_. So many fine Women mounted on horseback all richly dressed, the King in a Chaise attended by the whole Court on horseback, and the sumptuous Hunting-Equipages to be seen all at once in the pleasant Forest of _Fontainbleau_, form’d one of the finest Sights that could be. On the Days when there was no Hunting, the King took the Air in an open Calash round the great Canal, accompany’d by Ladies whose Habits were the finest and of the most beautiful Fancy that could be imagin’d. When the Court return’d from their Airing there was a Comedy or else a Drawing-Room at the Duchess of _Berry_’s, where they play’d at _Lansquenet_.

At those times too when there was no Hunting there were Assemblies at M. _le Grand_’s, and several others of Quality. I observ’d that most of the Nobility were more inclinable to be complaisant at _Fontainbleau_, than at _Versailles_: If a Man was ever so little known for a Person of Quality, they freely furnish’d him with the King’s Horses for Hunting, which is scarce ever practis’d but in _France_ and _Lorrain_. Indeed I have seen the same thing done at the Court of _Bavaria_, but ’twas very seldom.

After I had follow’d the Court for some time to _Versailles_ and _Fontainbleau_, I went back again to the famous City of PARIS. I no sooner arriv’d there but I had a considerable Fit of Sickness, which brought me almost to the Brink of the Grave. I committed myself to the care of the famous _Dutch_ Physician _Helvetius_. This skilful Doctor set me upon my Legs in a very little time; and when I was able to go abroad, he advis’d me to take a Walk in the Garden of _Luxembourg_, which they cry’d up for the best Air in all _Paris_. I did not fail to pursue the Doctor’s Direction, and observ’d indeed, that the Air I breath’d in that Garden was very good for me: But in a little time it had like to have prov’d most pernicious to me. For one Morning as I was walking there, I saw two Ladies coming a good way off, in a Deshabillé, who had both a grand Air, and a most noble Carriage. They were footing it on the very Terrass where I was walking; so that I sat down on a Bench to see them pass by. I confess to you, that I thought their Persons as lovely as their Undress was genteel and noble. As they sail’d by me, one of ’em happen’d to drop her Handkerchief, which I that instant snatch’d up and presented to her. She receiv’d it in a very polite manner, and I pass’d her a Compliment, to which she made a witty Reply. By degrees we entered into a Conversation, which tho’ it held only a Quarter of an Hour, cost me very dear; for I fell in Love, and more deeply in Love than I can express to you. The Ladies asked my Name. You will imagine I did not put them to the trouble of asking it twice; the rather, because I hop’d that in requital they would tell me their Names: But notwithstanding all my Intreaty they wou’d not satisfy me. She that I was most enamour’d with at the first View, bid me in very good _High-Dutch_ not to give my self any Uneasiness to know who they were; as she was going away, she said that I should not fail to see them again if I made any stay at _Paris_. I gave her my Hand and led her to her Coach, which seem’d to be well lin’d. I also saw a Couple of lusty Lackeys who were well clad. All this put together, confirm’d me in the Notion I had conceiv’d, that they were Ladies of Quality; or, at least, in good Keeping. I wou’d have given all the World to be inform’d exactly who and what they were; but ’twas absolutely impossible for me to make any Discovery. The Lackey that I had with me being a _German_, and even more a Stranger here than my self, was upon that account an improper Person, for the Management which is necessary for such Discoveries. I remain’d therefore mortally uneasy, and it had like to have made me as light-headed as I was in the Illness from which I was but newly recover’d. I did not fail to go to _Luxembourg_ Gardens every day, and staid there from nine o’clock in the Morning till Night, excepting only the little time it took me to go home to Dinner. All these Jaunts forwards and backwards lasted about a Fortnight, at the end of which I found my self just as forward as I was the first Day. At last, when I had given over all Thoughts of being so happy as to find this Fair-one out, I was surpris’d to see her at a Place where I never dreamt of finding her. One day as I waited upon the Ladies _de V----_ and _D----_ to the Play-house where _Cid_ was to be acted, and _Quinaut_ the Elder began with playing _Roderigo_; judge, _Madame_, how great was my Surprize when I saw that the Heroine of my Passion was also the Heroine of this Play, in which she perform’d the Part of _Clymene_. In all my Life I was never so confounded, and began to question whether I ought to indulge a Passion of that nature. I perceiv’d some Reluctance in my Mind against attaching my self to a Person whose Profession is rarely susceptible of those nice Sentiments, which Persons of Honor always demand in Love. But the Course I took was really the same that a Boy of nineteen years of Age wou’d have done; that is to say, I acted the very contrary to what I ought to have done. I foolishly indulg’d my I Passion, so that I had scarce Patience to stay for the Interval between the Play and the Entertainment, before I went behind the Scenes, where I found my Fair-one, with several Gentlemen of my Acquaintance about her, whom I took at first for so many Rivals; and as if it was not Punishment enough to be in love, I must needs be jealous too. I spoke to _D----_, (which was the Name of this dissembling Creature) but I perceiv’d that what I said put her into a Flutter; and I observ’d that she was over and above complaisant to a Gentleman of the Long Robe who stood near her. I was not mistaken in my Guess; ’twas _B----_, one of the Counsellors of Parliament, who bore this Lady’s Expences, and at such a Rate too, as if he had been an Officer of the Finances, rather than a Magistrate. I was so vain as to think of supplanting this Lover, or at least, if I could not quite non-suit him, I flatter’d my self that I should put him to a Non-plus. For this end I began to frequent the Comedy, and soon had the Comfort to find that my Love was not repaid with Ingratitude.

The Difficulty was to find a convenient Opportunity of seeing one another; but Love and Fortune soon pav’d the way for our Interview. Young _Q----_, the Sister of _D----_, who also liv’d with her, happen’d to have the Small-Pox. The Counsellor, who was extremely afraid of the Consequence, immediately took _D----_ from those Lodgings, and gave her an Apartment in the Hotel _d’Entragues_: But my comic Mistress gave me notice of her new Quarters; and the very same Day I hir’d a Chamber there too. I took no body with me but one Domestic, who was the Confident of my little Secrets; and there, in spite of my troublesome _Argus_, it was easy for me to see his Mistress, who would have been glad to be mine, if I had been so generous as he was, to give her 14000 Livres a year. But I chose rather to go snacks with him in the Favors which the Fair-one granted, than to pay so dear for the Exclusion of a Rival. The Counsellor, for his part, was not so indifferent, and having a Mistrust, he left no Stone unturn’d to find out the real Truth of the matter; nor was it long e’er his Curiosity was satisfy’d. Any other Person, not so deeply smitten as he was, might have known what he had to trust to for a Trifle of Expence; but this unbelieving Gallant, who, perhaps, was also too much conceited of his own Merit, and had too great an Opinion of his Nymph’s Virtue, to presume to be jealous of her Honor upon slight Appearances, try’d new Experiments. He gave a Bribe to a Chambermaid, who made him see enough with his own Eyes intirely to remove those Suspicions which he had so fondly indulged. In a word, he saw me with his dear Mistress; and at a time too, when we should have least of all thought of being seen together. What a Fury the provok’d Lover was in, is easy to imagine, Nevertheless he was so prudent as to dissemble his Passion till I was retir’d to my own Chamber. Then, like another _Roland_, he took a Revenge for the Infidelity of his _Angelica_ upon every thing that happen’d in his way. He broke and dash’d all to pieces; he tore off her Topknot, and threaten’d no less than utter Destruction to all about him. To all this Noise the Damsel return’d no Answer but Tears, which at length wrought so far upon this outragious Lover, as to pacify him: being then more calm, he larded his severe Reproaches with the softest Expressions; and taking the advantage of her Foible, offer’d her to increase her Pension, if she wou’d but promise him inviolable Fidelity. The Fair-one swore that nothing should, hereafter, lead her astray from her Duty; and in a Flood of Tears she consented to receive 2000 Crowns Addition to her Pension, which made it 20000 Livres a year. The Bargain was concluded with great Joy on both sides; but yet it was not strictly perform’d; for I continu’d my Visits to the Damsel, till at length her Sister being recover’d of her Distemper, Miss return’d to her own House. The Difficulties that then occurr’d, together with my own Fickleness, quite cool’d my Passion, which it was the easier for me to get rid of, because it was not in the least founded in Esteem; and perhaps, had it not been purely for the Pleasure of teazing that Limb of the Law, I had withdrawn my Addresses sooner.

My Amour with the fair Comedian did not sequester me from Company; and I will venture to say, that I made a tolerable Figure in a Country where every body that is not _French_ passes readily for a Barbarian. Several Gentlemen who saw how graciously the King receiv’d me at _Versailles_, were eager to pay me their Respects; particularly the Duke _D----_, first Gentleman of the Bed-Chamber, made me such a Compliment as I cannot easily forget. I became acquainted with this Nobleman at _Versailles_. He accosted me with the utmost Civility in the Great Gallery, the very Day after I had been introduc’d to his Majesty, and told me that I had good reason to be pleas’d with the Reception which the King gave me; but much more with what he said when I was withdrawn; which was, _That of all the Foreigners who had been introduc’d to him, no body had saluted him with a better Grace and a more easy Air than the Margrave of_ Anspach _and me_. The said Duke made a Proposal to me for my entring into the Service of _France_; and also promis’d me that I should be made a Colonel, if I would turn _Roman Catholic_. I thank’d him for his obliging Offers; but assur’d him, that Interest should never make me alter my Religion. I was also at that time full of the Prejudices of the Protestants against the Catholics; moreover, I was of an Age not mature enough for serious Reflections: for I thought of nothing in the world but my Pleasures; and indeed, how could a Man of my years help abandoning himself to them, when all the Kingdom, _Paris_ especially, breath’d an Air of Gayety, which there was no withstanding? _France_ saw that Peace which she had long wish’d for, on the point of being concluded; her late Losses had been expung’d by the Victory at _Denain_, and other Advantages which the _French_ Troops obtain’d, not only by the raising of the Siege of _Landrecy_, which the Allies had invested, but by the taking of _Marchiennes_ and _St. Amant_. The Allies began therefore to think of a Peace, and the _English_ were at last willing to consent to it. I have already had the Honor to acquaint you, that my Lord _St. John_ was come to the Court of _France_ to have a Conference upon the Articles of the so much desir’d Peace; and that he was receiv’d there as a Man who came with the most important News that ’twas possible for them to receive.

As soon as that Minister was return’d to _London_, the Congress was open’d at _Utrecht_ for a Peace; and _France_ and _England_ mutually sent their Ambassadors to one another. The Duke _d’Aumont_ was appointed to go in that quality to the Court of _England_; and before he departed, the King gave him the Order of the Holy Ghost. This Nobleman was perfectly welcome to the Court-Party at _London_, which was desirous of Peace; but was an Eye-sore to the opposite Party, who hated to hear the mention of it. The _French_ Ambassador was insulted, and treated with such Outrage, that his House was set on fire, and the Loss thereby sustain’d was very considerable; the said Duke having borrow’d the richest Furniture of several Persons, which was entirely burnt. The Duke of _Orleans_ thereby lost a noble Suit of Hangings, and several very scarce Pictures.

The Person who was sent to _France_, as Ambassador from the Court of _England_, was the Duke of _Shrewsbury_, whose Reception by the King, the Court and the Kingdom was sufficient Demonstration how well they lik’d the Commission which he came to negotiate. This Ambassador kept no very great Table at the Court of _France_; nor was his Equipage very gay. He was indeed a Nobleman of very great Merit, but of a mean Presence; for he was blind of one Eye, and exclusive of that Defect no body would hardly have taken him for a Nobleman, if he had not been adorn’d with the Order of the Garter. He had his Duchess with him, who was an _Italian_ Lady by Birth, and Sister to the famous _P----_, so well known in _England_ for his Extravagancies and his tragical Exit. The Duke of _Shrewsbury_ was betroth’d to her in _Italy_, and married in _England_. This Duchess appear’d at the Court of _France_ with the most Foreign Air in the World. The Duchess _d’Aumont_ was to have introduc’d her to the King and the Princesses; but as she was at that time indispos’d, she desir’d Madame _de Chatillon_ to perform the Office for her. The King receiv’d the Ambassadress with great Marks of Distinction; and she was afterwards introduc’d to _Madame_, where she found a numerous Company that came thither out of meer Curiosity; and there it was that I had the Honor of seeing her. She seem’d at first in such Confusion, as if she had never liv’d in any Court, but by degrees she took courage. She talk’d a great deal, and talk’d well.