Chapter VII: Part 7

On this day the Qazi and the Chief Justice represented to me that `Abdu-l-Wahhab, the son of Hakim `Ali, claimed Rs. 80,000 from the Sayyids of Lahore, and produced a bond with the seal of Qazi Nuru-llah. He said that his father had placed that sum in deposit with Sayyid Wali, the father of these men, who denied it. [374] If an order were given, the Hakim's son, by way of caution, [375] would swear an oath on the Qoran, and would take what was his due from them. I told them to do whatever was right by the Divine Law. The next day Mu`tamid Khan represented that the Sayyids showed great humility and submissiveness. The matter was a complicated [376] one. The greater reflection shown in ascertaining the truth in the matter the better. I accordingly ordered that Asaf K. should take exceeding trouble and forethought in ascertaining the truth of this quarrel, and point out such a way (of unravelling it) that no doubt whatever should remain. With all this, if it could not be cleared up, I would examine them in my own presence. Immediately he heard these words, the Hakim's son lost both his hands and his heart in the affair, and made a number of his friends intercessors, and proposed a withdrawal. His representation was that if the Sayyids would not [377] refer the matter to Asaf K. he would give a release, and that hereafter he would have no right against nor claim from them. Whenever Asaf K. sent to fetch him, as he was a low deceiver, he passed his time in making excuses, and did not appear until he handed over the deed of release to one of his friends, and the true state of affairs became evident to Asaf K. They brought him by force into the place of examination, and, having no choice, he confessed that the deed had been prepared by one of his servants, who himself witnessed it, and had misled him. He gave a writing to this effect. When Asaf K. informed me of the real state of matters, I took away his mansab and jagir, and cast him out of my presence, and gave the Sayyids leave to return to Lahore in all honour and respect.

On Mubarak-shamba (Thursday), the 8th of Khurdad, I`tiqad Khan was promoted to the mansab of 4,000 personal and 1,500 horse, and Sadiq Khan to that of 2,500 personal and 1,400 horse. Zainu-l-`abidin, son of the deceased Asaf Khan (Ja`far), was promoted to be Bakhshi of Ahadis. Raja Bir Singh Deo Bandila raised his head of honour with the high mansab of 5,000 personal and horse.

In Kashmir the most juicy(?) fruit is the ashkan(?) (askami in the MSS.). It is subacid (mai-khush), smaller than the alu balu (sour cherry), much better flavoured, and more delicate. When drinking wine, one cannot eat more than three or four alu balu, but of these one can take as many as a hundred in twenty-four hours, especially of the paiwandi(?) sort. I ordered that the ashkan should hereafter be called the khushkan. It grows in the hills of Badakhshan and in Khurasan; the people there call it jamdami. The largest of them weigh 1/2 misqal. The shah-alu (cherry), on the 4th Urdibihisht, appeared of the size of a grain of pulse; on the 27th it reddened, and on the 15th Khurdad it was ripe, and new fruit (nau-bar) had formed(?). The shah-alu (cherry), to my taste, is better than most fruits. Four trees had borne fruit in the Nur-afza garden. I called one of these Shirin-bar, the second Khush-guwar, the third, which bore the most fruit, Pur-bar, and the fourth, which had less, Kam-bar. One tree in Khurram's garden had also borne fruit, and I called it Shahwar. There was a young plant in the little garden of `Ishrat-afza (joy enhancing), and this I called Nau-bar (new fruit). Every day I plucked with my own hand sufficient to give a flavour to my cups. Although they sent them by runners from Kabul as well, yet to pick them oneself from one's home garden gave additional sweetness. The shah-alu of Kashmir is not inferior to that of Kabul; it is even better grown. The largest of them weighed one tank, five surkhs.

On Tuesday, the 21st, Padshah [378] Banu Begam died (became a sitter in the bridal chamber of the permanent world), and grief for this heart-rending event laid a heavy load on my mind. I hope that Almighty God may give her a place near his own forgiveness. A strange thing is--that Jotik Ray, the astrologer, two months before this, had informed some of my servants that one of the chief sitters in the harem of chastity would hasten to the hidden abode of non-existence. He had discovered this from the horoscope of my destiny, and it fell out accordingly.

One of the events (that now took place) was the martyrdom of Sayyid `Izzat [379] K. and of Jalal K. Gakhar in the army of Bangash. The particulars of this are that when the season for the collection of revenue arrived, Mahabat K. appointed a force to go into the hill-country to eat up the crops of the Afghans, and not omit one tittle of raiding and plundering, and killing and binding. When the servants of the Court arrived at the foot of the Pass the ill-fated Afghans attacked them from all sides, and took the head of the Pass, and fortified it. Jalal K., who was an experienced man, and an old man that had undergone labours, thought it better to delay for a few days, so that the Afghans might expend the few days' provisions they had brought with them on their backs, and necessarily disperse of their own accord; that then his men would be able to cross with ease over the head of the difficult Pass. When he once passed the head of the defile they would be unable to do any more, and would be punished. `Izzat K., who was a battle-lighting flame and a foe-burning lightning, did not fall in with Jalal K.'s idea, and excited the steed of courage of some of the Sayyids of Barha. The Afghans, swarming round on all sides, like ants and locusts, attacked him, and caught him in their midst. Though the battlefield was not fit for cavalry, yet wherever the forehead of his wrath shone, he consumed many with the fire of his sword. In the midst of the fighting they hamstringed his horse, but he fought on foot and as long as he had breath, and at last fell bravely. At the time when `Izzat K. made his attack, Jalal K. Gakhar [380] and Mas`ud, s. Ahmad Beg K., and Bizan (or Bizhan), s. Nad `Ali Maidani, and other servants, lost restraint, and rushed on from all sides of the pass, and the rebels seized the tops of the hills, and fought with stones and arrows. The devoted young men, both of the servants of the Court and the retainers of Mahabat K., performed the duties of valour, and slaughtered many of the Afghans. In this contest Jalal K. and Mas`ud, with many other brave men, sacrificed their lives. Owing to the rashness of `Izzat K. such a disaster as this befell the Imperial army.

When Mahabat K. heard this fearful news, he sent a fresh body of men to assist, and strengthened the posts. Wherever they found a trace of those ill-fortuned ones, they did not fail to slay or bind them. When I heard this news, I summoned Akbar Quli, s. Jalal K. who had been told off for duty in the conquest of the fort of Kangra, to my presence, and gave him the mansab of 1,000 personal and 1,000 horse, and confirmed to him, according to custom, his hereditary territory (the Gakhar country) in jagir, presented him with a dress of honour and a horse, and sent him to the support of the army of Bangash. As `Izzat K. had left a son of very tender years, keeping before my eyes, that discerned the truth, his life-sacrifice, I gave him (the child) a mansab and a jagir, so that those left behind should not be scattered abroad, and others might have increased hope.

On this day Shaikh Ahmad of Sirhind, who had for some time been placed in the prison of correction on account of his pretentiousness (literally, adorning his shop and selling himself) and immoderate language, was summoned to my presence, and I released him, giving him a dress of honour and Rs. 1,000 for expenses, and making him free to go or remain. He justly represented that his punishment had really been a valuable lesson to him, and that his desire was to wait on me.

On the 27th Khurdad apricots arrived [381] (from Kabul). The picture-gallery in the garden had been ordered to be repaired; it was now adorned with pictures by master hands. In the most honoured positions were the likenesses of Humayun and of my father opposite to my own, and that of my brother Shah `Abbas. After them were the likenesses of Mirza Kamran, Mirza Muhammad Hakim, Shah Murad, and Sultan Daniyal. On the second storey (row?) were the likenesses of the Amirs and special servants. On walls of the outer hall the stages of the road to Kashmir were recorded in the order in which I had come to them. A poet fixed the date by this hemistich:

Pictures of kings of Solomon-like glory. [382]

On Thursday, the 4th of the Ilahi month of Tir, the Feast of buriya-kubi [383] took place. On this day the Kashmir cherries came to an end. From the four trees of the Nur-afza garden, 1,500, and from other trees 500 had been plucked. I strictly ordered the officials of Kashmir to plant shah-alu (cherry) trees in all the gardens. On this day Bhim, s. Rana Amar Singh, was honoured with the title of Raja, and Dilir K., brother of the brave `Izzat K., was promoted to the mansab of 1,000 personal and 800 horse, Muhammad Sa`id, s. Ahmad Beg K., to that of 600 personal and 400 horse, and Mukhlis-ullah, his brother, to that of 500 personal and 250 horse. On Sayyid Ahmad Sadr the mansab of 1,000, and on Mirza Husain, s. Mirza Rustam Safawi, that of 1,000 personal and 500 horse, were bestowed, and the last-named was despatched for duty to the Deccan. On Sunday, the 14th of the Divine month of Tir, Hasan `Ali Turkman was made Governor of Orissa, and his personal and horse mansab was raised to 3,000. On this day Bahadur K., Governor of Qandahar, sent offerings of nine Iraq horses, some nine pieces of gold brocade, some brocaded satin, and some marten [384] skins, and other things; these were laid before me.

On Monday, the 15th, I rode to see the summer quarters of Tusi-marg [385] (?). Arriving in two matches at the foot of the kotal, on Wednesday, the 17th, I reached the top of the pass. For a distance of 2 koss very elevated ground was crossed with difficulty. From the top of the kotal to the Ilaq (summer quarters) was another koss of high and low land. Although here and there flowers of various colours had bloomed, yet I did not see so many as they had represented to me, and as I had expected. I heard that in this neighbourhood there was a very beautiful valley, and on Thursday, the 18th, I went to see it. Undoubtedly, whatever praise they might use in speaking of that flowery land would be permissible. As far as the eye reached flowers of all colours were blooming. There were picked fifty kinds of flowers in my presence. Probably there were others that I did not see. At the end of the day I turned my reins in order to return. That night an account was given in my presence of the siege of Ahmadnagar. Khan-Jahan told a strange tale, which I had also heard before, and it is written on account of its strangeness. At the time when my brother Daniyal was besieging the fort of Ahmadnagar, one day the garrison laid the gun Malik-maidan [386] (king of the plain) against the Prince's camp, and fired it. The ball reached nearly to the Prince's tent; from that place it bounded (ricocheted), and went to the lodging of Qazi Bayazid, who was one of the Prince's companions, and fell there. They had tied up the Qazi's horse at a distance of 3 or 4 gaz. As the ball touched the ground, the horse's tongue [387] was torn out by the root and fell on the ground. The ball was of stone, weighing 10 maunds as current in Hindustan, or 80 Khurasar maunds. The said gun is so large that a man can sit comfortably in it.

On this day I promoted Abu-l-Hasan, the chief Bakshi, to the mansab of 5,000 personal and 2,000 horse, Mubariz K. to that of 2,000 personal and 1,700 horse. Bizan (or Bizhan) s. Nad `Ali, to that of 1,000 personal and 500 horse, and Amanat K. to that of 2,000 personal and 400 horse. On Thursday, the 25th, I gave Nawazish K., s. Sa`id K., the mansab of 3,000 personal and 2,000 horse, Himmat K. that of 2,000 personal and 1,500 horse, and Sayyid Ya`qub K., s. Sayyid Kamal Bukhari, that of 800 personal and 500 horse. Mir `Ali `Askar, [388] s. Mir `Ali Akbar Musawi, was dignified with the title of Musawi K. As I had repeatedly heard praise of the Ilaq of Kuri-marg, [389] I felt much disposed to visit it at this time, and on Tuesday, the 7th Amurdad, rode in that direction. How shall I write its praise? As far as the eye could reach flowers of various hue were blooming, and in the midst of the flowers and verdure beautiful streams of water were flowing: one might say it was a page that the painter of destiny had drawn with the pencil of creation. The buds of hearts break into flower from beholding it. Undoubtedly there is no comparison between this and other Ilaqs, and it may be said to be the place most worth seeing in Kashmir.

In Hindustan (i.e., Upper India) there is a bird called Papiha, [390] of a sweet voice, which in the rainy season utters soul-piercing (jan-suz, lit. soul-burning) laments. As the koyal lays its egg in the nest of the crow, and the latter brings up its young, so I have seen in Kashmir that the papiha lays its egg in the nest of the ghaugha'i [391] (ring-dove?) and the ghaugha'i brings up its young.

On Thursday, the 17th, Fida'i K. was promoted to the mansab of 1,500 personal and 700 horse. On this day the ambassador of `Izzat [392] K., ruler of Urganj, by name Muhammad Zahid, came to the Court, and presented a petition, accompanied with some trifling presents, and recalled the existence of hereditary relations (lit., shook the chain of hereditary connection). I distinguished him with the eye of kindness, and on the spur of the moment gave the ambassador 10,000 darbs (Rs. 5,000) as a present, and ordered the officials of the buyutat (household) to prepare and send (by him) such things as he might ask for.

At this time a strange act of grace occurred to my son [393] Khan-Jahan (Lodi). He had become very ill from the madness of wine, and from the overpowering of this man-destroying intoxication things had come to such a pass that it threatened his precious life. Suddenly he reformed, and God directed him, and he made a vow that thereafter he would not defile the fringe of his lip with wine. Although I warned him that it was not good to give it up all at once, and that he should leave it off gradually, he would not consent, but gave it up manfully.

On the 25th of Amurdad Bahadur K., Governor of Qandahar, was promoted to the mansab of 5,000 personal and 4,000 horse, and on the 2nd of the Divine month of Shahriwar, Man Singh, s. Rawat Shankar, to that of 1,500 and 800 horse, Mir Husamu-d-din to that of 1,500 and 500 horse, and Karamu-llah, s. `Ali Mardan K. [394] to that of 600 with 300 horse.

As at this time I was much inclined to parti-coloured [395] veined teeth, the great Amirs exerted themselves greatly in looking out for them. Of these, `Abdu-l-`Aziz K. Naqshbandi sent a servant of the name of `Abdu-llah with a letter to Khwaja Hasan and Khwaja `Abdu-r-Rahim, ss. Khwaja Kalan Juybari, who are to-day the leading holy men of Transoxiana, containing a request for these things. By chance, Khwaja Hasan had a perfect tooth, exceedingly delicate, and immediately sent it with the aforesaid (servant) to the Court, which it reached this day. I was greatly pleased, and ordered them to send the value of Rs. 30,000 in choice goods to the Khwajas, a service for which Mir Baraka Bukhari was fixed upon. On Thursday, the 12th Shahriwar, Mir Miran obtained leave to take up the faujdarship of Mewat, and his mansab, original and increased, was fixed at 2,000 with 1,500 horse. I gave him a special horse, with a dress of honour and a sword.

At this time it was made clear from a report of Sundar [396] that Jauhar Mal, the rebel, had delivered his soul to the lords of hell (had died). It was also reported that a force sent against one of the Zamindars had abandoned the path of caution, and without fortifying the way of entrance and exit, or taking possession of the hill-tops, had entered into the fastnesses of the hills, and had fought without any good result. As the day drew towards its close, they had turned their reins with their object unaccomplished, and in turning back, had made every haste. Many people had been killed, especially those who would not put up with the disgrace of flight. They purchased martyrdom with their lives. Out of them Shah-baz K. Dalumani [397] (?), which is a tribe of Lodi Afghans, sacrificed his life with a band of his servants and tribesmen. In truth he was a good servant, and had intelligence combined with modesty. Another report was that Jamal Afghan, Rustam, his brother, Sayyid Nasib Barha, and some others had come in wounded. It was also reported that the siege (of Kangra) had become a close one, and the affair was going hard with the besieged. They had sent (literally thrown out) men as mediators, and had asked for quarter. It was hoped that by the blessing of increasing fortune the fort would be subdued.

On Wednesday, the 18th of the same month (Shahriwar), Dilawar K. Kakar died a natural death. Beyond all the other Amirs of high rank, he combined valour with leadership and knowledge of affairs, and from the time when I was a prince carried away from all the ball of superiority in my service. He acted constantly with the perfection of sincerity and the jewel of doing right, and had thus arrived at the dignity of Amirship. In the end of his life God Almighty bestowed grace upon him, and the conquest of Kishtwar, which was an exemplary service, was accomplished by his courage. It is hoped he may be one of the pardoned. His sons and the others that he left behind him I exalted with all kinds of favours and patronage, and enrolled those of his people who were fit for mansabs amongst the servants of the Court. I ordered the rest, to remain as usual with his sons, so that his company might not be split up.

On this day Qur Yasawul came with a diamond that Ibrahim K. Fath-jang had obtained from the Bengal mine, and waited on me. Wazir K., diwan of Bengal, who was an old servant of the Court, died a natural death.

On the night of Thursday, the 19th, the Kashmiris had lined with lamps both sides of the Bihat. It is an ancient custom that every year on this day everyone, whether rich or poor, whoever has a house on the bank of the river, should light lamps as on the Shab-i-barat. I asked the brahmans the reason of this, and they said that on this day the fountain-head of the Jhelam was disclosed, and the custom had come down from old days that on this date must take place the feast of Veth tarwah. [398] Veth means the Jhelam, and they call thirteen tarwah; as this day is the 13th of Shawwal, they light lamps. In this way they call it the Veth tarwah. Undoubtedly the lamp-lighting was good. I sate in a boat and went round to see it. On this day the feast of my solar weighing took place, and according to the usual custom, I weighed myself against gold and other things, which I distributed among deserving people. The 51st year of the age of this suppliant at the throne of Allah came to an end; the 52nd year lit up the face of expectation. It is hoped that the period of my life will be spent in pleasing God. The entertainment of Thursday, the 26th, was held in the lodging of Asaf K. (Nur-Jahan's brother), and that pillar of the Sultanate fulfilled the duties of homage, and of offerings, and thereby acquired eternal bliss.

On 1 Shahriwar (about 11 August) ducks (murghabi) appeared on the Wular lake, and on the 24th of that month they appeared on the Dal lake. The following is the list of birds which are not met with in Kashmir:

LIST.

1. Crane [399] (kulang).
2. Saras (grus Antigone).
3. Peacock.
4. Bustard (jarz or charz).
5. Stork (laglag).
6. Bustard (tughdari).
7. Bustard (tughdagh).
8. Karwanak (kind of crane?).
9. Zard-tilak (golden oriole?).
10. Nuqra-pay (silver-foot).
11. `Azam-pay.
12. Boza laglag (royal curlew).
13. Pelican (hawasil).
14. Makisa (Ardea indica?).
15. Baghla (paddy-bird).
16. Goose (qaz).
17. Konkla (kokila, the black cuckoo?).
18. Partridge (durraj).
19. Shavak (starling).
20. Nol-i-surkh (redbeak, [parrot]?).
21. Musicha (wood-pigeon?).
22. Hariyal (green pigeon?).
23. Dhing (adjutant).
24. Koyal (Eudynamys Orientalis).
25. Shakar-khwara (sugar-eater, [parrot]?).
26. Mahokha (cuculus castaneus?).
27. Mahirlat (?).
28. Dhanesh (hornbill).
29. Gulchari (quail?).
30. Tatiri, which the Turks call (blank in MSS.) and I have named
bad-awaz, "evil-voiced." (It is perhaps the sandpiper.)

As the Persian names of some of these are not known, or rather, these birds don't exist in Persia (Wilayat), I have written the Hindi names. [400] The names of the carnivorous and herbivorous animals that are not in Kashmir are as follows: The tiger, the panther (yuz), the rhinoceros, [401] the wild buffalo, the black antelope, the gazelle, the kotah pacha (hog-deer), the nil-gaw, the wild ass, the hare, the lynx, the wild cat, the mushak-i-karbala'i (?), [402] the porpoise, and the porcupine.

On this day peaches came from Kabul by runners. The largest of these weighed 26 tolas, [403] or 65 misqals. As long as their season lasted, such a number came that I gave them to most of the Amirs, and to the private servants fed from the royal table.

On Friday, [404] the 27th, I went out to see Virnag, [405] the source of the Bihat. Going up the river 5 koss in a boat, I alighted at the village of Pampur.

On this day unpleasant news came from Kishtwar. The details of this are that when Dilawar K. conquered it and returned to Court, he left Nasru-llah `Arab, with some of the mansabdars to guard it. Nasru-llah made two mistakes. One was that he treated the Zamindars and the people of the place harshly, and did not observe a conciliatory demeanour towards them. The second was that the forces sent as auxiliaries to him, in expectation of increase of mansab, asked him for leave to go to Court and transact their affairs. He yielded to their representations, [406] and gave them leave one after the other. When only a small force was left with him, the Zamindars, whose hearts had been wounded by him, and were on the look out for a disturbance, found their opportunity and made an attack from all quarters. Having burnt the bridge by which the army had crossed, and by which assistance could come, they lighted the fire of disturbance and sedition. Nasru-llah shut himself up, and for two or three days defended himself with the greatest difficulty (literally, with a thousand life-extractions). As he had no provisions, and they had closed the road, he determined to accept martyrdom, and manfully, with some of those who were with him, performed the dues of bravery and valour until most of his men were killed, and some became captives in the hands of destiny.

When this news reached my ear, I appointed Jalal, s. Dilawar K., on whose forehead the traces of bravery and ambition were manifest, and who had done good service in the conquest of Kishtwar, with the mansab of 1,000 personal and 600 horse, giving him the attendants of his father who were enrolled among the servants of the Court, and an army of the soldiers of Kashmir, with many of the Zamindars and men on foot with muskets, to assist him in overcoming that mob, doomed to a vile end. An order was also given that Raja Sangram, the Zamindar of Jammu, with his own men, should come in by the hill-road from Jammu. It is hoped that the rebels will quickly obtain the recompense for their deeds.

On Saturday, the 28th, I marched 4 1/2 koss. Passing one koss beyond Kakapur, I came to the bank of the river. The bang [407] (bhang) of Kakapur is well-known. It grows wild on the bank of the river in quantities. On Sunday, the 29th, I halted at the village of Panj Brara. [408] This village [409] has been bestowed on my fortunate son Shah Parwiz. His Vakils had prepared a small building and a little garden overlooking the river. In the neighbourhood of Panj Brara there is a meadow (julga) [410] exceedingly clean and pleasant, with seven lofty plane-trees in the middle of it, and a stream of the river flowing round it. The Kashmiris call it Satha Bhuli(?) [411] It is one of the great resorts of Kashmir.

On this day arrived the news of the death of Khan Dauran, [412] who died a natural death at Lahore. He had nearly reached ninety years of age. He was one of the brave men of the age and valiant in the battlefield. He combined bravery with leadership. He performed great services for the dynasty. It is hoped that he will be among the pardoned ones. He left four sons, but none of them was worthy to be his son. He left about Rs. 400,000 in cash and goods, which were given to his sons.

On Monday, the 30th, I first visited the fountain of Inch. This village had been given by my father to Ram Das Kachhwaha, [413] and he had erected buildings and basins at the spring. Undoubtedly, it is an exceedingly sweet and delightful place. Its water is perfectly clear and pure, and many fish swim in it.

VERSE.

So clear the water that the grains of sand at bottom
Could be counted at midnight by a blind man.

As I gave [414] the village to my son Khan Jahan, he prepared an entertainment there, and presented offerings. I chose a trifle in order to please him. Half a koss from this spring, there is a fountain that they call Machhi Bhawan, [415] above which Ray Bihari Chand, one of the servants of my father, built an idol-temple. The beauty of this spring is more than one can describe, and large trees of ancient years, planes, white and black poplars, have grown up round it. I passed the night at this place, and on Tuesday, the 31st, pitched at the fountain of Achval. [416] The water of this spring is more plentiful than that of the other, and it has a fine waterfall. Around it lofty plane-trees and graceful white poplars, bringing their heads together, have made enchanting places to sit in. As far as one could see, in a beautiful garden, Ja`fari flowers had bloomed, so that one might say it was a piece of Paradise. On Wednesday, the 1st of Mihr, marching from Achval, I pitched camp near the fountain of Virnag. [417] On Thursday, the 2nd, the feast of cups was prepared at the spring. I gave my private attendants permission to sit down. Filling brimming cups, I gave them Kabul peaches as a relish, and in the evening they returned drunk (mastan, exhilarated?) to their abodes. This spring is the source of the River Bihat, and is situated at the foot of a hill, the soil of which, from the abundance of trees and the extent of green and grass, is not seen. When I was a prince, I had given an order that they should erect a building at this spring suitable to the place. It was now completed. There was a reservoir of an octagonal shape, forty-two yards in area and fourteen [418] gaz in depth. Its water, from the reflection of the grass and plants on the hill, had assumed a hue of verdure. Many fish swam in it, round it halls with domes had been erected, and there was a garden in front of them. From the edge of the pond to the gate [419] of the garden there was a canal 1 gaz in width and 180 [420] gaz in length, and 2 gaz in depth. Round the reservoir was a stone walk (khiyaban-i-sang). The water of the reservoir was so clear that, notwithstanding its 4 gaz of depth, if a pea had fallen into it, it could have been seen. Of the trimness of the canal and the verdure of the grass that grew below the fountain, what can one write? Various [421] sorts of plants and sweet-smelling herbs grew there in profusion, and among them was seen a stem (buta), which had exactly the appearance of the variegated tail of a peacock. It waved about in the ripple, and bore flowers here and there. In short, in the whole of Kashmir there is no sight of such beauty and enchanting character. It appears to me that what is upstream [422] in Kashmir bears no comparison with (i.e., is far superior to) what is downstream. One should stay some days in these regions, and go round them so as to enjoy oneself thoroughly. As the hour for marching was near, and snow was beginning to fall at the head of the passes, I had not the leisure to linger there, and was obliged to turn my rein towards the city. I gave an order that plane-trees should be planted on both sides, on the banks of the canal above mentioned. On Saturday, the 4th, I encamped at the spring of Loka Bhawan. [423] This spring is also a pleasant spot. Although at present it is not equal to the others, if it were to be repaired it would be very good. I ordered them to construct a building worthy of the place, and to repair the reservoir in front of it. On the road I passed by a spring which they call Andha Nag [424] (blind fountain. See Iqbal-nama, 166). It is well known that the fish in this fountain are blind. I delayed a while near this spring, and threw in a net and caught twelve of the fish. Of these, three were blind and nine had eyes. Evidently the water of this spring has the effect of making them blind. Certainly this is not devoid of strangeness. On Sunday, the 5th, I again passed by the springs of Machhi Bhawan and Inch, and went to the city.

On Wednesday, the 8th, news arrived of the death of Hashim, s. Qasim K. On Thursday, the 9th, Iradat K. was promoted to the governorship of Kashmir. Mir Jumla in his place was chosen for the duty of Khansaman, and Mu`tamid [425] K. to that of `Arz-muqarrir. The mansab of 2,000 personal and 500 horse was ordered for Mir Jumla. On the night of Saturday, the 11th, I entered the city. Asaf K. was appointed to the duty of Diwan of Gujarat. Sangram, Raja of Jammu, was promoted to the mansab of 1,500 personal and 1,000 horse.

On this day I saw an unusual kind of fishing on the part of the fishermen of Kashmir. In a place where the water was up to a man's chest, they propelled two boats that were side by side, and so that at one end they were in contact, and at the other end they were 14 or 15 yards apart. Two boatmen held long poles in their hands, and sate on the outside edge of each boat (?) so as to regulate the space between each boat, and that they should proceed equally. Then ten or twelve boatmen got down into the water, and laying hold of the ends of the two boats that were joined [426] together with their hands, trampled the bottom with their feet, and moved on. The fish which were between the boats wanted to get out of the narrow space, and came against the feet of the boatmen. Immediately one of the boatmen dived, and another one pressed upon his back, and with his two hands kept him from coming to the surface. The latter caught a fish and produced it. Some who are skilful in the art catch two fish with their hands, and bring them to the surface. Among them was an old boatman, who generally at each dive brought up two fish. This kind of fishing occurs at Panj Brara, [427] and is peculiar to the Jhelam. It is not used in ponds or in other streams. It also only takes place in the spring when the water is not cold or impetuous (gazanda, "biting"?).

On Monday, the 13th, the feast of the Dasahra took place. According to the annual custom, they decorated the horses in the special stables, and those that had been entrusted to Amirs, and brought them out. At this time I experienced in myself a shortness of breath and difficulty in breathing. I hope that in the end, please God, it may all go well.

On Wednesday, the 15th, I went to make an autumn tour in the direction of Safapur and the valley of Lar, situated downstream of the Kashmir River. In Safapur there is a fine tank, and on the north side of it a hill full of trees. It being the beginning of autumn, it had a wonderful appearance, with trees of all colours, such as the planes, the apricot, and others, reflected in the middle of the tank, and very beautiful. Undoubtedly the beauties of autumn are not less than those of spring.

VERSE.

There's no exhilaration in decay, but to the eye
The glory of autumn is more brilliant than the Spring.

As the time was short and the hour of marching near, I took a short circuit and returned. These few days I passed pleasantly in catching [428] ducks. One day, in the midst of the sport, a boatman caught and brought me a young qarqara (the demoiselle crane, Ardea virgo). It was very thin and miserable. It did not live longer than one night. The qarqara does not live in Kashmir. This had become ill and thin at the time of coming from, or going to, Hindustan, and fallen there.

On Friday news came of the death of Mirza Rahmandad, s. the Khan-khanan. He died a natural death at Balapur. It appears that he had been suffering from fever for some days. When he was recovering, the Deccanis one day appeared with an army. His elder brother, Darab K., mounted with the intention of fighting. When the news reached Rahman-dad, with great bravery, notwithstanding his weakness and failing health, he went to his brother. After he had beaten the enemy, he returned and in taking off his jubba (quilted waistcoat) was not sufficiently careful. The wind immediately caught him, and he was seized with convulsions, and his tongue became powerless to speak. He remained two or three days in this state and died. He was a good and brave youth, was fond of sword-play, and was very zealous. In every place it was his idea to display his skill with the sword. Although fire burns equally what is green and what is dry, yet it appeared very grievous to me, and what must it have been to his broken-hearted old father? Hardly had the wound from the calamity of Shah-nawaz K. healed, when he received this fresh wound. I trust that God Almighty may give him patience and resignation.

On Thursday, the 16th, Khanjar K. was promoted to the mansab of 3,000 personal and horse, Qasim K. to that of 2,000 personal and 1,000 horse, and Muhammad Husain, brother of Khwaja Jahan, who held the post of Bakhshi to the army of Kangra, that of 800 personal and horse. On the night [429] of Monday, the 27th of the Divine month of Mihr, after one watch and seven gharis had passed, the royal standards were raised auspiciously and happily to return towards Hindustan. As the saffron had blossomed, a march was made from the neighbourhood of the city to the village of Pampur. [430] In the whole country of Kashmir there is saffron only in this place. On Thursday, the 30th, the feast of cups was held in a saffron field. Groves on groves, and plains on plains were in bloom. The breeze in that place scented one's brain. The stem is attached (close?) to the ground. The flower has four petals, and its colour is that of a violet. It is of the size of a champa flower, and from the middle of it three stigmas of saffron grow. They plant the bulbs, and in a good year obtain 400 maunds of the current weight or 3,002 [431] Khurasan maunds. The custom is for half to go to the government, and half to the cultivators. A seer is bought and sold for Rs. 10. Occasionally its market price is more or less, and it is an established custom that they bring the saffron flowers plucked, and according to the plan they have adopted from of old, they take half its weight in salt as wages. There is no salt in Kashmir, and they bring it from Hindustan. Again, among the excellencies of Kashmir are the plumes of feathers (kalgi) and the hawks (janwar-i-shikari). As much as 10,700 feathers are yearly obtained. Hawks and falcons are taken in nets to the number of 260. It has also nest sparrow-hawks (basha), [432] and the nest sparrow-hawk is not bad. On Friday, the 1st of the divine month of Aban, marching from Pampur, I pitched my camp at Khanpur. As it was reported to me that Zambil [433] Beg, ambassador from my brother Shah `Abbas, had reached the neighbourhood of Lahore, a dress of honour and Rs. 30,000 for expenses were sent to him by Mir Husamu-d-din s. `Azudu-d-daula Inju. [434] I ordered that whatever he might expend on entertaining the ambassador should be sent to him to the extent of Rs. 5,000. [435] Before this I had directed that from Kashmir to the end of the hilly country buildings should be erected at each stage for the accommodation of myself and the ladies, for in the cold weather one should not be in tents. Although the buildings at this stage had been completed, as they were still damp and there was a smell of lime, we put up in tents. On Saturday, the 2nd, I halted at Kalampur. As it had repeatedly been represented to me that in the neighbourhood of Hirapur there was a waterfall [436] very high and wonderful, as it was 3 or 4 koss off on the left of the road, I hastened there to see it. What can be written in its praise? The water pours down in three or four gradations(?). I had never seen such a beautiful waterfall. Without hesitation, it is a sight to be seen, very strange and wonderful. I passed the time there in enjoyment till the third watch of the day, and filled my eye and heart with the sight; but in the cloudy and rainy season it is not devoid of wildness. After the third watch had passed, in the evening I rode back to Hirapur, [437] and passed the night at that stage. On Monday, the 4th, crossing over the kotal of Bari Brari, [438] I chose Pirpanjal, at the head of the kotal, for a halting-place. Of the roughnesses of the pass and the difficulties of this road what shall I write? It is difficult for thought even to cross it. In these last few days snow had repeatedly fallen, the hills had become white, and in the middle of the path in some places ice had formed, so that the hoof of a horse had no hold, and a rider could only pass with difficulty. God Almighty bestowed upon us His mercy, for it did not snow on this day. The advantage was for those who went on in front. Those who followed came in for snow. On Tuesday, the 5th, going by the pass of Pirpanjal the camp was pitched at Poshana. Although on this side there is a descent, yet as it is high, most of the people passed it on foot. On Wednesday, the 6th, we pitched at Bahramgalla. Near this village there is a waterfall and a very fine spring. According to orders, they had made a terrace for me to sit upon; indeed, this is a sight to be seen. I ordered that they should engrave on a stone tablet the date of the crossing, and place it on the top of the terrace (suffa). Bi-badal K. [439] composed some couplets, and this mark of my fortune remains on the path of poetry as a memorial on the tablet of Time(?). There are two Zamindars on this road in whose charge are the arrangements for the traffic on it, and they are in reality the keys of the country of Kashmir. They call one Mahdi Nayak and the other Husain Nayak. The charge of the road from Hirapur to Bahramgalla is in their hands. Bahram Nayak, the father of Mahdi Nayak, during the Kashmiri government, was an important person. When the authority passed to the imperial servants, Mirza Yusuf K., during his government, made Bahram Nayak a traveller to the country of non-existence. It is now equally in the possession and charge of the two. [440] Although outwardly they are on good terms, they really bear great enmity towards each other. On this day Shaikh Ibn Yamin, who was one of the old trusted servants, went to the neighbourhood of God's mercy (died). [441] On account of my great reliance on him, my opium and drinking water [442] were in his charge. On the night when we were encamped above the kotal of Pirpanjal, the tents and furniture had not arrived. He was rather infirm and the cold affected him, and he became cramped so that he could not speak. He remained alive for two days in this state and then died. I gave over the private opium to Khawass K., and the ab-dar-khana (the water department) to Musawi K. On Thursday, the 7th, the village of Thana [443] became the encamping place. Many monkeys (maimun) were seen in Bahramgalla, and from that stage a great difference was apparent in the climate, the language, the clothing, the animals, and whatever properly belongs to a warm country. The people here speak both Persian and Hindi. Evidently Hindi is their real language, and they have acquired Kashmiri on account of the proximity of Kashmir. Briefly, one enters India at this place. The women do not wear woollen clothing, and like Indian women, they wear nose-rings.

On Friday, the 8th, Rajaur was the camping-ground. The people of this country were in old times Hindus, and the landholders are called Rajas. Sultan Firuz made them Muhammadans, but they are still called Rajas. They still have the marks of the times of ignorance. One of these is that just as some Hindu women burn themselves along with their husbands (bodies), so these women (the Rajaur women) are put into the grave along with their (dead) husbands. I heard that recently they put alive into the grave a girl of ten or twelve along with her (dead) husband, who was of the same age. Also, when a daughter is born to a man without means, they put her to death by strangulation. [444] They ally themselves with Hindus, and both give and take girls. Taking them is good, but giving them, God forbid! I gave an order that hereafter they should not do such things, and whoever was guilty of them, should be capitally punished. There is a river at Rajaur. Its water during the rainy season becomes much poisoned. Many of the people there get a swelling (bughma) under the throat, and are yellow and weak. The rice of Rajaur is much [445] better than the rice of Kashmir. There are self-grown and sweet-scented violets in this skirt of the hills.

On Sunday, the 10th, I encamped at Naushahra. At this place, by order of my father, they had built a stone fort, and there is constantly here, by way of a station (thana), a body of men from the governor of Kashmir. On Monday the camp was at Chauki Hatti. A chela named Murad had exerted himself to complete the buildings at this place, and had done it well. In the middle of the royal abode there was a fine terrace, superior to those of other stages. I increased his mansab. On Tuesday, the 12th, I halted at Bhimbar. Passing this day out of kotals and hills, we entered the broad plains of Hindustan. The hunters had previously been dispatched to form qamurghas, so as to prepare jirgas (hunting rings) in Bhimbar and Girjhak [446] and Makhiyala. On Wednesday and Thursday they drove in the game. On Friday I rejoiced in a hunt. Hill quchqar, [447] etc., to the number of 56 head were taken. On this day Raja Sarang Deo, who was one of the intimate attendants, was promoted to the mansab of 800 personal and 400 horse. On Saturday, the 16th, I went towards Girjhak, and in five marches encamped on the bank of the Bihat. On Thursday, the 21st, I hunted in the hunting-ring of Girjhak. Less game than usual was taken, and I was not satisfied. On Monday, the 25th, I hunted with much enjoyment in the hunting-ring of Makhiyala, [448] thence in ten stages I encamped at the stage of the hunting-place of Jahangirabad. When I was prince, this was my hunting-place. Afterwards, I founded a village with my own name, and erecting a small building, placed it in charge of Sikandar Mu`in, who was one of my best huntsmen. After I came to the throne I made a pargana of it, and bestowed it as a jagir on him. I gave an order that they should construct there a building as a royal residence, with a tank and a minaret [449] (manara). After his death this pargana was given in jagir to Iradat K., and the charge of the buildings was given to him. It has now been handsomely completed. Undoubtedly the tank was very broad, [450] and in the middle there is a delightful building. Altogether the buildings here cost Rs. 1,50,000. Really it is a kingly hunting-place. On Thursday and Friday, having halted, I enjoyed myself with various kinds of sport. Qasim K., who was honoured with the charge of Lahore, had the good fortune to pay his respects to me, and presented 50 muhars.

In one march after this stage I encamped at the garden of Mumin `Ishq-baz, [451] which is on the bank of the Lahore River (the Ravi), and has some lofty plane-trees and handsome cypresses. It is certainly a rare garden. On Monday, the 9th of the Divine month of Azar, corresponding with the 5th Muharram of A.H. 1030 [452] (20 November, 1620), mounting an elephant of the name of Indra, I went towards the city, scattering coin as I proceeded. After three watches and two gharis of day had passed, at the selected auspicious hour, having entered the royal residence, I alighted happily and auspiciously at the building recently brought to completion and finished handsomely by the exertions of Ma`mur K. Without exaggeration, charming residences and soul-exciting sitting places had been erected in great beauty and delicacy, adorned and embellished with paintings by rare artists. Pleasant green gardens with all kinds of flowers and sweet-scented herbs deceived the sight.

VERSE. [453]

From head to foot, wherever I look,
A glance plucks at the heart's skirt (saying),
"This is the place" (to stop at).

Altogether, there had been expended on these buildings the sum of Rs. 700,000 or 23,000 current tumans of Persia. [454]