Chapter XXVII: Part 27

Fourthly. Having laid the two halves of the mould so that there can be
no mistake in fitting the one in its exact place quickly on the other,
pour from the saucepan into _one_ of the half moulds nearly as much
wax as will fill the hollow made by the model (egg), quickly fit the
other half on the top of it, squeeze the two pieces tightly together
in the hand, and still holding them thus, turn them over in every
possible position, so that the wax which is slowly congealing in the
internal hollow of the mould may be of equal thickness in all parts.
Having continued this process at least two minutes, the hands (still
holding and turning the mould) may be immersed in cold water to
accelerate the cooling process. The perfect congealment of the wax may
be known after a little experience by the absence of the sound of
fluid on shaking the mould.

Fifthly. As soon as the mould is completely cooled, the halves may be
separated carefully, the upper being lifted straight up from the
under, and if the operation has been properly managed, a waxen egg
will be turned out of the mould.

Lastly. The egg will only require _trimming_, that is, removing the
ridge which marks the line at which the halves of the mould joined,
and polishing out the scratches or inequalities left by the knife with
a piece of soft rag, wet with spirits of turpentine or spirits of
wine.

It is always desirable to make several castings of the same object, as
the moulds are apt to get chipped when laid by in a cupboard; and for
this reason, as well as for the sake of practice, we recommend our
pupils to make at least a dozen waxen eggs before they proceed to any
other object. If they succeed in this _completely_, they may rest
assured that every difficulty which is likely to meet them in any
future operation will be easily overcome.

[HE DOETH WELL WHO DOETH GOOD.]

2546. Colouring the Wax.

While the wax is yet on the hob, and in a fluid state, stir into it a
little _flake white_, in powder, and continue to stir the mixture
while it is being poured into the half mould. It will be found that
unless the fixing and shaking of the moulds is managed quickly, the
colouring matter will settle on the side of the half into which the
mixture is poured; a little care in manipulation is therefore again
requisite. The colouring of the wax is a matter which comes easily
enough by experiment. Oranges, lemons, large gooseberries, small
cucumbers, &c.,&c., are excellent objects for practice.

2547. Close Imitation of the Surface.

It will be noted by the accurate observer that the shell of the common
hen's egg has a number of minute holes, which destroy the perfect
smoothness of its appearance. This peculiarity is imitated in the
following simple manner:--In the first place, very slightly prick with
a fine needle the surface of your waxen egg, and then, having smeared
it with spirits of turpentine, rub the surface all over. So as
_nearly_ to obliterate the marks of the needle point.

2548. Diaphanie.

This is a beautiful, useful, and inexpensive art easily acquired, and
producing imitations of the richest and rarest stained glass; and also
of making blinds, screens, skylights, Chinese lanterns, &c., in every
variety of colour and design.

2549. Imitation of Coloured Glass.

In decorating his house an Englishman spends as much money as he can
conveniently spare; the elegances and refinements of modern taste
demand something more than mere comfort; yet though his walls are hung
with pictures, his drawing-rooms filled with bijouterie, how is it
that the windows of his hall, his library, his staircase, are
neglected? The reason is obvious. The magnificent historical old
stained glass might be envied, but could not be brought within the
compass of ordinary means.

Recent improvements in printing in colours led the way to this
beautiful invention, by which economy is combined with the most
perfect results. A peculiar kind of paper is rendered perfectly
transparent, upon which designs are printed in glass colours (_vitre
de couleurs_), which will not change with the light. The paper is
applied to the glass with a clear white varnish, and when dry, a
preparation is finally applied, which increases the transparency, and
adds tenfold brilliancy to the effect.

2550. Imitation of Half-Light.

There is another design, printed in imitation of the half-light
(_abat-jour_); this is used principally for a ground, covering the
whole surface of the glass, within which (the necessary spaces having
been previously cut out before it is stuck on the glass) are placed
medallion centres of Watteau figures, perfectly transparent, which
derive increased brilliancy from the semi-transparency of the
surrounding ground. This is by far the cheapest method, though
involving extra trouble, as the plain grounds printed in sheets are
only a fourth the price of the sheets which contain the medallion
Watteau centres or other small designs suitable for the purpose.

2551. Sheets of Designs.

The transparent sheets measure 20-1/2 in. by 16-1/2, and are ready for
immediate use. The other articles required are some clear white
varnish, some liqueur diaphane, brushes, metal palettes, and ivory
sticks. These are all the appliances required.

2552. Calculation of Quantities.

To ascertain the quantity of designs required, measure your glass
carefully, and then calculate how many sheets it will take (the sheets
being 20-1/2 in. by 16-1/2 in. as given above). The sheets are
arranged so that they can be joined together continuously, or cut to
any size or shape.

2553. Practical Instructions.

Choose a fine day for the operation, as the glass should be perfectly
dry, and unaffected by the humidity of the atmosphere. Of course, if
you have a choice, it is more _convenient_ to work on your glass
before it is fixed in the frame. If you are working on a piece of
unattached glass, lay it on a _flat_ table (a marble slab is
preferable), over which you must previously lay a piece of baize or
cloth to keep the glass steady.

The glass being thus fixed, clean and polish the side on which you
intend to operate (in windows this is the inner side), then with your
brush lay on it very equably a good coat of the prepared varnish; let
this dry for _an hour_, more or less, according to the dryness of the
atmosphere and the thickness of the coat of varnish; meantime cut and
trim your designs carefully to fit the glass (if it is one entire
transparent sheet you will find little trouble); then lay them on a
piece of paper, face downwards, and damp the back of them with a
sponge, applied several times, to equalize the moisture.

In ths operation arrange your time so that your designs may now be
finally left to dry for fifteen minutes before application to the
glass, the varnish on which has now become tacky or sticky, and in a
proper state to receive them. Apply the printed side next to the glass
without pressure; endeavour to let your sheet fall perfectly level and
smooth on your glass, so that you may avoid leaving creases, which
would be fatal.

Take now your palette, lay it flat on the design, and press out all
the air-bubbles, commencing in the centre, and working them out at the
sides; an ivory stick will be found useful in removing creases: you
now leave this to dry, and after twenty-four hours apply a slight coat
of the liqueur diaphane, leaving it another day, when, if dry, apply a
second coat of the same kind, which must be left several days;
finally, apply a coat of varnish over all.

2554. Probable Results.

If these directions are carefully followed, your glass will never be
affected by time or any variations in the weather; it will defy hail,
rain, frost, and dust, and can be washed the same as ordinary stained
glass, to which, in some respects, it is even superior.

2555. Application of Diaphanie.

It is impossible to enumerate the variety of articles to the
manufacture of which Diaphanie may be successfully applied, as it is
not confined to glass, but can be done on silk, parchment, paper,
linen, &c., _after they have been made transparent_ which may be
accomplished in the following manner:

2556. Management of Paper, &c.

Stretch your paper, or whatever it may be, on a frame or drawing
board, then apply two successive coats (a day between each) of
diaphanous liquor, and after leaving it to dry for _several_ days,
cover it with a thin layer of very clear size, and when dry it will be
in a fit state to receive the coat of varnish and the designs.

2557. Management of Textile Fabrics.

Silk, linen, or other stuffs should be more carefully stretched, and
receive a thicker coat of size than paper or parchment; the latter may
be strained on a drawing or any other smooth board, by damping the
sheet, and after pasting the edges, stretching it down while damp.
Silk, linen, and other stuffs require to be carefully stretched on a
suitable frame. _Whatever you use_, take great care to allow time to
dry before applying the liqueur diaphane.

2558. Screens, &c., in Diaphanie.

All kinds of screens, lamp shades and glasses, lanterns, &c., &c., may
be made in this way, as heat will produce no effect upon them. The
transparent pictures are successful, because they may be hung on a
window frame or removed at will, and the window blinds are superior to
anything of that kind yet produced.

2559. Vitremanie.

Vitremanie is a process of imitating painting on glass similar to
Diaphanie, and Potichomanie is a process of like nature by which glass
plates, vases, &c., are made to resemble porclain.

2560. Decalcomanie.

This recently discovered and beautiful art consists in transferring
coloured drawings to glass, porcelain, china, wood, silk, furniture,
plaster of Paris, alabaster, ivory, paper, paper hangings, windows,
tea trays, oil cloth, and all kinds of fancy articles; in short,
materials of any kind, shape, or size, provided they possess a smooth
surface, can be decorated with Decalcomanie; the immediate result
being an exact resemblance to painting by hand. The art itself is
simple and ingenious, and while affording agreeable occupation to
ladies, it may be made to serve many useful purposes, on account of
the numerous objects which will admit of being thus ornamented.

2561. Materials Employed in Decalcomanie.

i. A bottle of transfer varnish for fixing the drawings.

ii. A bottle of light varnish to pass over the drawings when fixed.

iii. A bottle of spirit to clean the brushes, and to remove those
pictures which may not be successful.

iv. A piece of beaver cloth about nine inches square.

v. A paper-knife and roller.

vi. Two or three camel-hair brushes.

vii. A basin of water.

viii. A bottle of opaque varnish.

2562. Instructions.

Thoroughly clean and free from grease the article to be decorated;
then, having cut off the white paper margin of the drawing, dip one of
the brushes into the transfer varnish, and give it a very light coat,
being especially careful to cover the whole of the coloured portion,
but not to allow it to touch the blank paper; then lay the drawing,
face downwards, on the object to be ornamented, taking care to place
it at once where it is to remain, as it would be spoilt by moving. If
the varnish, on its first application, is too liquid, allow the
picture to remain for about ten minutes to set.

Moisten the cloth with water, and lay it gently on the drawing which
has been previously laid in its place on the object to be decorated;
then rub it over with the paper-knife or roller, so as to cause the
print to adhere in every part; this done, remove the cloth, well soak
the paper with a camel-hair brush dipped in water, and immediately
after lift the paper by one corner, and gently draw it off.

The picture will be left on the object, while the paper will come off
perfectly white. Care must be taken that the piece of cloth, without
being too wet, is sufficiently so to saturate the paper completely.
The drawing must now be washed with a camel-hair brush, in clean
water, to remove the surplus varnish, and then left till quite dry. On
the following day, cover the picture with a light coat of the fixing
varnish, to give brilliancy to the colours.

[THE STRANGER IN HIS WRETCHEDNESS...]

2563. To Ornament Dark-coloured Objects.

To ornament dark-coloured objects, such as the bindings of books,
Russia leather, blotting-cases, leathern bags, &c., the picture must
be previously covered with a mixture of opaque white varnish, taking
care not to pass beyond the outline of the design. On the following
day, proceed according to the instructions given in the preceding
paragraph.

2564. To ornament Silk, Paper, or Articles which will not bear wetting.

Varnish the picture with the transfer varnish, as previously
explained, following the outline of the design, then allow it to dry
for an hour or two; when quite dry, pass a damp sponge over the entire
surface of the sheet, so as to remove the composition which surrounds
the picture, and which may spoil the object.

Let the paper dry once more, and varnish the picture again with the
transfer varnish; in about ten minutes, place it face downward on the
object to be decorated, and rub it with the paper-knife or roller,
over the whole of its surface. Finally, moisten the paper with a wet
brush, allow it to remain sufficiently long to become moist, then
strip the paper off.

_To remove a spoilt picture from any object,_ dip a soft rag in the
essence, and rub it over the surface.

2565. To Insure a Successful Result.

To insure a successful result, care must be taken to give a very light
coating of varnish to the parts to be transferred. When the varnish is
first applied it is very liquid, and must remain ten minutes, the best
condition for transferring being when the varnish is only just sticky,
without being too dry.

2566. The Following Designs will be found the most Elegant and
Appropriate.

English flowers of every variety: bouquets, tropical birds, flowers
and fruits in imitation of aqua-tint; garlands with cupids after
Watteau, and garlands with birds; domestic scenes; pears and cherries,
apples and plums, white grapes and plums, black grapes and peaches,
plums and mulberries, large bouquet of roses; bouquets of moss roses
and pansies.; bouquets of small camellias; bouquets of wall-flowers
and poppies; bouquets of orange-blossom, medallions, various subjects;
birds'-nests; Gothic initials and monograms, fleurs-de-lis; borders
various.

2567. Heraldic Decalcomanie.

Heraldic Decalcomanie is an extended application of this art, the arms
and crests of persons or families being emblazoned in their proper
colours according to the rules of heraldry, and prepared for
Decalcomanie. Armorial bearings, thus embellished, serve admirably to
ornament and identify the books of a library and pictures of a
gallery, to decorate menus for dinner, the invitations to a soirée,
&c. By their brilliant colours they give an elegant effect to the
table decorations.

2568. Croquet.

This out-door pastime is of comparatively modern creation, and until
quite lately was very much in vogue. It nay be played by persons of
all ages and of either sex; but it is especially adapted for ladies
and young persons, as it demands but slight personal exertion, while
it affords delightful and health-giving sport.

2569. The Ground.

The ground is preferably a grass plot of an oblong form; but an
ordinary lawn or expanse of even turf will answer the purpose, so long
as it is of sufficient extent for the operations of the game.

2570. Implements.

The implements are balls, mallets, starting and turning pegs, croquet
clips or markers, hoops or arches.

2571. Arrangement of the Hoops.

As much of the interest of this game depends upon the arrangement of
the hoops, it is essential that they should be fixed in the ground on
definite principles. In the first place, the starting peg is driven
in at one end of the ground, and the turning peg is driven in at the
other extremity. From each of these pegs a space of twelve feet
intervenes; here a hoop is fixed; another space of ten feet
intervenes, when a second hoop is fixed; a space of eight feet then
succeeds, and at this point is formed what may be termed the base, on
each side of which, at a distance of twenty feet, and succeeding each
other at intervals of ten feet, three hoops are driven in. By this
arrangement, a square is formed, the starting peg leading into its
centre, and the turning peg leading from it. Where the ground is
small, the distances may be contracted proportionally. Other
arrangements of the hoops may he made at the discretion of the
players, but the first-named plan will be found best worthy of
adoption, as it affords the most excellent opportunities for the
display of address and skill.

2572. The Game.

The game consists in striking the balls from the starting peg through
the hoops to the peg at the opposite extremity. The balls are then
driven back again to the starting peg. The game may be played by any
number of persons not exceeding eight. A larger number renders the
game tedious. The best number is four. If two only piay, each player
may take two balls, and when as many as eight play, there should be
two sides or sets. Each player takes a mallet, ball, and croquet clip
of the same colour or number, the clip being used to indicate the hoop
at which, in his turn, he aims. The division into sides, choice of
balls, mallets, &c., is determined by the players among themselves.

2573. Laws of Croquet.

In this game, as with many other sports when first established, there
were differences of opinion on certain points of practice. In 1870,
however, at a conference of Croquet players, the following rules were
settled and adopted. They are now accepted by all players.

i. There shall be no restriction to the number, weight, size, shape,
or material of the mallets: nor as to the attitude or position of
the striker.

ii. The players shall toss for choice of lead and of balls: and a
succession of games shall take the lead alternately and keep the
same balls.

iii. In commencing, each ball shall be placed at one foot from the
first hoop in a direct line between the pegs; and a ball having been
struck is at once in play, and croquetable whether it shall have
made the first hoop or not.

iv. A stroke is considered to have been taken if a ball is moved
perceptibly; but should the player have struck it accidentally, and
the umpire be satisfied that the stroke was accidental, the ball is
replaced and the stroke taken again.

v. If the player make a foul stroke he loses his turn and all the
points made therein, and the balls remain where they lie, at the
option of the adversary. The following are considered foul strokes:

(_a_) To strike with the mallet another ball instead of or besides
one's own in making the stroke.

(_b_) To spoon, that is, to push a ball without an audible knock.

(_c_) To strike a ball twice in the same stroke.

(_d_) To stop a ball with the foot in taking a loose Croquet.

(_e_) To allow a ball to touch the mallet in rebounding from the
turning peg.

(_f_) To fail to stir the passive ball in taking Croquet.

(_g_) If a player, in striking at a ball which lies against a peg
or wire, should move it from its position by striking a peg or
wire, the ball must be replaced, and the stroke taken again.

vi. A player continues to play so long as he makes a point or hits a
ball. A point consists in making a hoop or hitting the turning peg
in order.

vii. The ball has made its hoop when, having passed through from the
playing side and ceased to roll, it cannot be touched by a
straight-edge placed across the wires on the side from which it was
played.

viii. A player who hits a ball must take Croquet: that is, must
strike his own ball while in contact with the other, so as
perceptibly to stir both. In doing this he is _not_ allowed to place
his foot on his ball. A player, when his turn comes round, may hit
and Croquet each ball in succession, and can do this again after
each point made, but between the points can only take Croquet once
off each ball.

ix. A playing ball which hits another after making a point is in
hand, and the striker can score no point till he has taken Croquet.
After hitting another, a ball may be stopped by any player; but
should it, in rolling, displace any of the other balls, such balls
must remain where they are driven.

x. When, at the commencement of a turn, two balls are found
touching, Croquet must be taken at once, without repeating the hit.

xi. When a player, in his stroke, hits one or more balls, he must
take Croquet off the ball that is struck first; but if he has hit
two simultaneously, he may choose from which of them he will take
it, and in both cases a second hit is required before he can take it
from the other ball.

xii. Should the ball in making its hoop strike another that lies
beyond the hoop and then pass through it, the hoop and the hit both
count; but, should any part of the ball that is hit have been lying
beneath the hoop, the Croquet must be taken, but the hoop does not
count.

xiii. A rover which strikes or is driven by another ball against the
winning peg is out of the game, and must be removed from the ground.

xiv. A player who pegs out a rover by a first hit cannot take
Croquet from it, as the ball is out of the game, and he is not
entitled to another stroke.

xv. Should a player play out of his turn, or with a wrong ball, and
this be discovered by his antagonist before a second stroke in error
has been made, the turn is lost, and all points made after the
mistake, and the balls shall remain as they lay at the time the
mistake was discovered, or be replaced to the satisfaction of the
antagonist. But if he has made a second stroke before the error is
discovered, he continues his break, and the next player follows with
the ball that is next in rotation to the one with which he has
played, and is liable to lose his turn, and all points made therein,
if he plays with that which would have been the right ball if no
mistake had been made.

xvi. Should a player make the wrong hoop by mistake, or Croquet a
ball that he is not entitled to Croquet, and the mistake be
discovered before he has made a second stroke, he loses his turn,
and any point so made in error; but if he has made a second stroke
before the discovery, he shall be allowed to continue his break.

xvii. In order to prevent the occurrence of the errors noticed in
the above rules (Nos. xv. and xvi), a player is bound, upon being
appealed to, to declare truly what is his next hoop or point in
order, and is entitled to demand of his antagonist what he his
played last, and to insist upon his clip being properly placed.

xviii. When clips are used they should be moved by the umpire, or
with his cognisance, at the end of each turn, and their position
shall he conclusive as to the position of the balls in the game.

xix. Should a ball in play be accidentally stopped by the umpire, he
places it where he considers that it would have rolled to. Should it
be stopped by a player, it will rest with the side opposed to that
player to say whether the ball shall remain where it stopped, or be
placed by the umpire, or the stroke be taken again.

xx. If a ball lies within a mallet's length of the boundary, and is
not the playing ball, it must at once be put out three feet at right
angles from the boundary; but if it is the playing ball, it may, at
the discretion of the player, either be put out or played from where
it lies.

xxi. If it is found that the height of the boundary interferes with
the stroke, the player may, at the umpire's discretion, bring out
the ball so far as to allow of the free swing of the mallet, and in
taking a Croquet both the balls.

xxii. Should a player, in trying to make his hoop, knock a wire out
of the ground with his ball or mallet, the stroke shall be taken
again.

xxiii. Any player may set upright a peg or hoop except the one next
in order; and that, however loose, awry, or slanting it may be, must
not be altered except by the umpire.

xxiv. No ball may be moved because of its lying in a hole or on bad
ground, except by the umpire or with his permission.

xxv. Where there is no umpire present, permission to move a ball, or
to set up a hoop or peg or other indulgence for which an umpire
would have been appealed to, must be asked of the other side.

xxvi. The decision of the umpire shall in all cases be final. His
duties are:

(_a_) To move the clips, or see that they are properly moved;

(_b_) to decide on the application of the laws;

(_c_) to satisfy any player as to the point that is next to be
made, or the right ball to play;

(_d_) to keep the score. But he shall not give his opinion, or
notice any error that may be made, unless appealed to by one of
the players.

xxvii. It was also decided that the mallet should be held within
twelve inches of its head.

2574. Supplementary Laws.

The following were added from the Draft Club Laws of Croquet.

i. If a ball be driven partly through its hoop from the non-playing
side, and remain so that a straight-edge placed in contact with the
hoop on the non-playing side touches the ball, the ball cannot run
its hoop at its next stroke.

ii. If in taking Croquet the striker's ball go off the ground, the
striker loses the remainder of his turn; but if by the same stroke
the striker make a point or a Croquet, he continues his turn.

iii. If, after a Croquet, the striker's ball, while rolling, be
touched by the striker or his partner, the stroke is foul.

2575. Difference between Old and New Laws.

The chief difference (says Captain Crawley) between these and previous
laws will be found in the method of taking the Croquet. The new laws
say that the foot must _not_ be placed on the player's ball; the
generally accepted practice was to take the Croquet by putting your
foot on your ball and striking it so as to send the other bill off to
a distance; or if the other ball belonged to your partner to merely
tap it in the direction desired. The foot practice is still observed
by many players; and some think with advantage.

2576. Technical Terms Used in Croquet.

i. _Roquet_.--To strike another ball with your own.

ii. _Croquet_.--When two balls are in contact, the player strikes
the other away, either with or without putting the foot on your own
ball, as may be previously arranged.

iii. A _loose Croquet_ is made by striking your opponent's ball
without putting your foot on your own ball. In taking "two off" it
is, however, necessary that the ball should be seen to move.

iv. _Wired_.--A ball is in contact with a hoop, so as to prevent it
going through.

v. _Bridge Ball_.--One that has passed the first arch.

vi. _Dead Ball_.--One in hand after having roqueted another.

vii. _To Peg_.--To play for either of the pegs in regular order.

viii. _The Tour_.--The run given to each player till he fails to
strike through a hoop.

ix. _To Dismiss_ a ball is to Croquet it to a distance.

x. _Rover_.--You become a Rover when you have completed the hoops
from point to point, and instead of hitting the starting-peg and
retiring, you prefer to strike your ball to any part of the ground,
croqueting friends or foes.

xi. The terms side stroke, straight stroke, following ball,
over-running a bridge, running a bridge, &c., explain themselves.

2577. Bagatelle.

An indoor game played on an oblong board usually from six to ten feet
long by a foot and a half to three feet in width. The bed of the table
is of slate covered with a fine green cloth; and at the upper end,
which is rounded, there are nine holes or cups, numbered from 1 to 9,
thus:

5
3 2
8 9 7
4 6
1

Into these holes ivory balls are driven by a leather pointed cue. The
player stands at the lower end of the table; and his object is to hole
the balls sucessively into the several cups. Nine balls are used,
eight white and one red; or seven white with two coloured balls. The
red is placed on a spot just in front of the 1 hole; and the game is
played according to the following:

2578. Rules.

i. Any number of persons may play, whether singly or on sides.

ii. Each player strings for lead, and he whose ball falls into the
highest hole begins.

iii. The winner of the lead plays the nine balls successively up the
table from baulk, first striking at the red ball on the spot.

iv. The red ball counts double when holed, and each white ball
scores towards game a number corresponding to that marked in the
hole (when two coloured balls are used, each counts double).

v. The red ball must be first struck; and the rest of the balls are
played up to the holes, the sum total of all the holes filled being
the striker's score.

vi. Any number of rounds agreed on may be played, and the highest
aggregate total by a player or by partners wins the game.

vii. A ball rebounding beyond the baulk line, or forced off the
table, is put aside and not re-used in that round.

2579. The French Game (or Sans Egal).

The French Game (or Sans Egal) is played as follows:--The player who
wins the lead takes four balls, leaving the other four for his
opponent, and placing the black ball on the spot. He plays at it from
baulk, and scores all he can. The other player then strikes up one of
his balls, and so on alternately; the maker of the highest number of
points winning. While the coloured ball is on the table, it must be
struck, and when it is holed it counts double, in addition to any
other score made by the same stroke. If either player hole his
adversary's ball he forfeits to him the number scored by the stroke.
If he fail to strike the black ball he forfeits five points. The rules
as to rebounding balls, foul strokes, &c., are the same as in the
ordinary game.

2580. Old Canon Game.

Old Canon Game, sometimes played on a table without holes or pockets,
consists entirely of canons--two balls struck in succession by the
player's ball. The game, 50 or 100 up, each canon counting two points,
is played with three balls only--a white, spot-white, and black (or
red) ball. When played on the ordinary bagatelle table, the holes
filled after making a canon score to the player. One point is
forfeited for missing the white, five points for missing the red; and
all points made without a canon. The players go on alternately, the
first who scores the stipulated number winning the game.

2581. Other Games.

Mississippi, Trou Madame, Cockamaroo, and other toy-games are
sometimes played on the bagatelle table; but they need no description.
To play well at any of the games, however, requires great care and
nicety. Much depends on the manner of holding and using the cue, and
the slight degree of force employed in making the stroke. Some experts
are able to fill all the holes at one essay, placing the coloured
balls in the 8 and 7 at the first stroke, and then playing direct at
the cups or at the cushion, till all the balls are holed. At the
French Game a hundred or more canons at a break is by no means unusual.

2582. Billiards.

This well-known game of skill is played on a rectangular table with
three ivory balls,--white, spot-white, and red; the object being to
drive one or other of them into either of the six pockets, and to
strike one ball against the two others. The first stroke is known as a
hazard, and the second as a canon. The instrument for striking at the
ball, is a long tapering stick called a cue; and the game is scored by
hazards, canons, misses, and forfeitures. The ball struck with the
cue is known as the player's ball; the ball played as the object ball.
A ball struck into a pocket, is a winning hazard; the player's ball
falling into a pocket after contact with the white or red, is a losing
hazard. Three principal games are played on the billiard table--the
English game, or Billiards, Pyramids, and Pool.

2583. English Billiards.

English Billiards,--the best of all the games,--is usually played 50
or 100 up. The points are thus reckoned--three for each red hazard,
two for each white hazard, and two for each canon. A coup--that is
running in a pocket, or off the table without striking a ball--is a
forfeiture of three points,--a miss gives one point to the adversary.
The game commences by stringing for lead and choice of balls. The red
ball is placed on the spot at the top of the table, and the first
player either strikes at it, or gives a miss. Every time the red ball
is pocketed, it is replaced on the spot. He who makes a hazard or
canon goes on playing till he fails to score. Then the other goes on,
and so they play alternately till one or other completes the required
number of points, and wins the game.

2584. Pyramids.

Pyramids is a game played by two persons, or by four in sides, two
against two. Fifteen balls are placed close together in the form of a
triangle or pyramid, with the apex towards the player, thus:

o o o o o
o o o o
o o o
o o
o

The centre of the apex ball covers the second or pyramid spot; and the
first player strikes at the mass with a white ball from baulk.
Pyramids is a game consisting entirely of winning hazards, and he who
succeeds in pocketing the greatest number of balls, wins. A single
point is scored for each winning hazard, and a forfeiture of a point
for each losing hazard; the game being usually played for a stake--so
much (say 6d.) a ball, and so much (say 1s. 6d.) for the game.

2585. Pool.

A game played by two or more persons, consisting of winning hazard
only. Each player subscribes a certain stake to form a pool or gross
sum, and at starting has three chances or lives. He is then provided
with a marked or coloured ball, and the game proceeds thus:

The white ball is placed on the spot, and the red is played on to it
from baulk. If the player pocket the white he receives the price of a
life from the owner of the ball; but if he fail, the next player
(yellow) plays on the red; and so on alternately till all have played,
or till a ball is pocketed. When a ball is pocketed, the striker plays
at the ball nearest his own, and goes on playing as long as he can
score. The first player who loses his three lives can star: that is,
he can purchase as many lives as are held by the lowest number
remaining in the pool. The order of play is usually red upon white,
yellow upon red, green upon yellow, brown upon green, blue upon brown,
black upon blue, spot-white upon black, white upon spot-white; and
this order is retained so long as all the original players remain in
the game. When the number of players is reduced to two, they can, if
they possess an equality of lives, as two each, or one each, divide
the stake; or they may by agreement play out the game for the entire
pool.

2586. Single Pool.

Single Pool is a game for two players, the white winning game,
originally played with two balls, for a money stake upon each life.

2587. Nearest Ball Pool.

Nearest Ball Pool is the same as ordinary pool, except that the
player, after taking a life, plays upon the ball nearest to the upper
or outer side of the baulk; or, if his ball be in hand, upon the ball
nearest the baulk semi-circle.

2588. Black Pool.

Black Pool is ordinary pool with the addition of a black ball, which
is placed on the centre spot. When, after pocketing the ball proper to
be played on, the black is struck into a pocket, each player pays the
price of a life to the striker.

2589. Skittle Pool.

Skittle Pool is pool with three balls and twelve little skittles,
placed in order round the table. A stake is determined on, and a price
paid out of the pool for every skittle knocked over after striking a
ball. An amusing game for a party of ladies and gentlemen.

2590. Penny Pot.

Penny Pot is pool without restriction as to the number of lives,
played by any number of players, who pay a penny each to the taker of
every life or winning hazard. For the scientific principles of
billiards, and the full rules of the several games played on the
billiard-table, the reader is referred to the excellent little
shilling volume, "Billiards Made Easy,"[1] and the more elaborate
treatise by Captain Crawley.

[Footnote 1: _Billiards made Easy_. With the scientific Principles of
the Spot-stroke, and the Side-stroke, familiarly explained: By Winning
Hazard. Illustrated by practical diagrams. With a chapter on
Bagatelle: Houlston and Sons.]

2591. Boss; or the Fifteen Puzzle.

Apparently simple, this game is really difficult of solution, Fifteen
cubes of wood, severally marked from I to 15, are placed indifferently
in a box made to hold sixteen; thus:

--------------------------- ---------------------------
| | | | | | | | | |
| 9 | 11 | 3 | 7 | | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
| | | | | | | | | |
|------+------+------+------| |------+------+------+------|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 8 | 14 | 10 | 15 | | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
| | | | | | | | | |
|------+------+------+------| |------+------+------+------|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 6 | 12 | 13 | 2 | | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
| | | | | | | | | |
|------+------+------+------| |------+------+------+------|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 5 | 1 | 4 | | | 13 | 14 | 15 | |
| | | | | | | | | |
--------------------------- ---------------------------

The puzzle consists in sliding the cubes from square to square,
without lifting them or removing them from the box, until they are
placed in their natural order. It is easy enough to move the squares
up to 12; but to get the last three into order is often a puzzle
indeed. If the figures fall in either of the following positions--13,
15, 14; 14, 13, 15; or 15, 14, 13--the problem is unsolvable; it
follows, therefore, that the last row must be either 14, 15, 13; or
15, 13, 14. If you get the cubes into either of these positions, you
can easily bring them right; but if you cannot, the only way is to
begin the game all over again. Several other ways are suggested.
Cavendish (Mr. H. Jones) thinks he solves the puzzle by turning the
box half round; but as this is only possible when the figures are on
circular pieces of wood, his solution merely cuts the knot, instead of
unravelling it.

2592. The Thirty-Four Puzzle.

This is an adaptation of tho old magic square, which amused the
philosophers of old. A sketch of it appears in Albert Durer's painting
of Melancholia. Sixteen discs or squares, numbered from 1 to 16, are
placed indifferently on the table--or they may be in the fifteen box;
and the puzzle is to so arrange them as to make the sum of the figures
add up to 34, whether counted up, down, across or angularly. Here is
the solution:

--------------------------- ---------------------------
| | | | | | | | | |
| 1 | 15 | 14 | 4 | | 1 | 8 | 13 | 12 |
| | | | | | | | | |
|------+------+------+------| |------+------+------+------|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 12 | 6 | 7 | 9 | | 14 | 11 | 2 | 7 |
| | | | | | | | | |
|------+------+------+------| |------+------+------+------|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 8 | 10 | 11 | 5 | | 4 | 5 | 16 | 9 |
| | | | | | | | | |
|------+------+------+------| |------+------+------+------|
| | | | | | | | | |
| 13 | 3 | 2 | 16 | | 15 | 10 | 3 | 6 |
| | | | | | | | | |
--------------------------- ---------------------------

This is the simplest; but a more elaborate plan is to so arrange the
figures that any form of the blocks will form a square sum of 34. See
the annexed solution, which the ingenious in may still further
complicate:

----------------------------
| | | | |
| 16 | 3 | 2 | 13 |
| | | | |
|---------------------------|
| | | | |
| 5 | 10 | 11 | 8 |
| | | | |
|---------------------------|
| | | | |
| 9 | 6 | 7 | 12 |
| | | | |
|---------------------------|
| | | | |
| 4 | 15 | 14 | 1 |
| | | | |
----------------------------

2593. Fox and Geese.

This old-fashioned game is played on a solitaire board. Seventeen
geese occupy the upper part of the board lines, with the fox in the
middle, thus:

o--o--o
| | |
o--o--o
| | |
o--o--o--o--o--o--o
| | | | | | |
o--o--+--F--+--o--o
| | | | | | |
+--+--+--+--+--+--+
| | |
+--+--+
| | |
+--+--+

The object of the game is to confine the fox in a corner, so that he
cannot move. The geese march forward in straight lines, not on the
diagonals; and whenever a goose is on the spot next the fox, the
latter can take him, as in draughts, by jumping over to the vacant
spot beyond. The fox can move backwards, forwards, or sideways on the
straight lines; but the geese must go forward, and are not allowed to
retreat. Properly played, the geese must win; but when the number of
geese is reduced to six, it is impossible for them to confine the fox.

There are several ways of playing the game, by placing the fox and
geese in other positions, or by insisting on the fox catching all the
geese. In the latter case, the fox chooses his own starting place. The
game may also be played with eight geese and a fox.

Another way of playing this game is on an ordinary draughtboard, with
four white men for the geese, and a black king for the fox. The geese
can only move forward, but the fox moves either way. The object of the
geese is to pen up the fox so that he cannot move; the object of the
fox is to break through the line of defence. If the game be properly
played, the geese must win. Place them on the draughtboard thus:

-------------------------
| | O| | O| |O | | O|
-------------------------
| | | | | F| | | |
-------------------------
| | | | | | | | |
-------------------------
| | | | | | | | |
-------------------------
| | | | | | | | |
-------------------------
| | | | | | | | |
-------------------------
| | | | | | | | |
-------------------------
| | | | | | | | |
-------------------------

The secret is to keep the geese in a line. The fox tries to prevent
this, and if he can succeed in doubling the geese, or getting one to
stand before the other, he is nearly sure to pass through them.

2594. The Royal Game of Goose.

In the old German game the figure of a goose is printed on a large
sheet of paper, and divided into 63 squares or divisions. The object
of the players,--any number of whom may join in the game--is to make
63 points by successive throws of two dice. A pool is made by equal
contributions by the players, the first of whom gaining the required
number wins. The players throw alternately and add each individual
throw to that already made.

Each player's position is shown on the goose by a counter, a wafer, or
any small article. Any number beyond 63 sends the thrower back as many
points as he exceeds 63. Thus if he were 58, and by a 6 and 5 he threw
eleven he would go forward 5 squares to 63, and back 6 squares from
63. In addition to this, certain numbers on the goose are barred; and
if the player make them he is fined two counters, which are added to
the pool. The numbered goose is sold at most toy shops, but a numbered
draughtboard will serve as well.

2595. Troco or Lawn Billiards.

This is a game that may be played by any number of persons in a field
or open space. The implements are wooden balls and long-handled cues
at the ends of which are spoonlike ovals of iron. In the centre of the
Troco ground is fixed a ring of iron, which moves freely on a pivot,
the spike of the ring being driven into a piece of wood let into the
ground. The wooden ball is lifted from the ground by means of the
spoon-ended cue, and thrown towards the ring--the object of the player
being to pass the ball through the ring; and he who succeeds in making
any given number of points by fairly ringing his ball, or canoning
against the other balls, wins the game.

Canons are made by the player striking two balls successively with his
own ball fairly delivered from his spoon. Thus (says the most recent
writer on the game) a clever player may make a large number of
points--five, seven, or more at a stroke: two the first canon, two for
a second canon, and three for the ring. This, however, is very seldom
accomplished.

Considerable skill is required in throwing the ball, as the ring,
turning freely on its pivot, twists round on being struck. To "make
the ring," it is necessary, therefore, that the ball be thrown fairly
through its centre. But in order to get nearer to it a judicious
player will endeavour to make two or three canons, if the balls lie
within a convenient distance and at a proper angle to each other. If
the ball be thrown with sufficient force, it will glance off from the
ball struck in a line corresponding to its first or original line of
projection.

2596. Rules.

i. Troco may be played by two or more persons, each of whom is
provided with a ball and a cue. When more than two play, sides are
chosen, and the side which first makes the requisite number of
points wins the game.

ii. The players stand in a circle, in the centre of which is set up
the pivot-ring.

iii. Each player starts from any portion of the circle distant not
less than four yards from the ring. The first player lifts his ball
with the spoon-cue, and throws it towards the ring; each of the
others taking his turn alternately--the balls remaining on the
ground where they stop rolling.

iv. If the first player fail to "make his ring," the next goes on,
who may either throw at the ring or at the ball in the circle.

v. Partners may assist each other in getting near the ring; but no
player, at starting, may step within four yards of the ring.

vi. _Two_ points are counted for every canon, and _three_ for every
fairly-made ring; and successive points are reckoned for any number
of rings or canons.

vii. Each player goes on till he fails to canon or ring his ball;
when the next plays; and so on, till the required number of points
are made.

viii. One point is taken off the player's score for every foul
stroke. Foul strokes are made by touching a ball with hand or person
while it is in play; by playing with a wrong ball; by playing out of
turn; by overturning the ring; and by making two or more steps while
throwing the ball.

ix. Each player, after the start, must go on from the place at which
his ball was left after the previous stroke.

x. All disputed points must be settled by the umpire, whose decision
is final.

xi. No ball in-play must be removed from its position except by a
stroke from another ball, and every ball is considered to be in-play
while it is within the circle, which may be of any dimensions chosen
by the players previous to the commencement of the game.

xii. Any player leaving a game before it is finished, loses it.

The game is played fifteen, twenty-one, or any other determined number
of points. The balls should be perfectly round and smooth. They are
generally made of boxwood or lignum vitæ, and weigh about three to
five lbs. each; the balls, cues, &c., are sold by most dealers in
croquet implements.

2597. Habits of a Man of Business.

A sacred regard to the principles of justice forms the basis of every
transaction, and regulates the conduct of the upright man of business.
The following statements afford a bird's-eye view, as it were, of his
habits, practice, and mode of procedure:

i. He is strict in keeping his engagements.

ii. He does nothing carelessly or in a hurry.

iii. He employs nobody to do what he can easily do himself.

iv. He keeps everything in its proper place.

v. He leaves nothing undone that ought to be done, and which
circumstances permit him to do.

vi. He keeps his designs and business from the view of others.

vii. He is prompt and decisive with his customers, and does not
over-trade his capital.

viii. He prefers short credits to long ones; and cash to credit at
all times, either in buying or selling; and small profits in credit
cases with little risk, to the chance of better gains with more
hazard.

ix. He is clear and explicit in all his bargains.

x. He leaves nothing of consequence to memory which he can and ought
to commit to writing.

xi. He keeps copies of all his important letters which he sends
away, and has every letter, invoice, &c., belonging to his business,
titled, classed, and put away.

xii. He never suffers his desk to be confused by many papers lying
upon it.

xiii. He is always at the head of his business, well knowing that if
he leaves it, it will leave him.

xiv. He holds it as a maxim that he whose credit is suspected is not
one to be trusted.

xv. He is constantly examining his books, and sees through all his
affairs as far as care and attention will enable him.

xvi. He balances regularly at stated times, and then makes out and
transmits all his accounts current to his customers, both at home
and abroad.

xvii. He avoids as much as possible all sorts of accommodation in
money matters, and lawsuits where there is the least hazard.

xviii. He is economical in his expenditure, always living within his
income.

xix. He keeps a memorandum-book in his pocket, in which he notes
every particular relative to appointments, addresses, and petty cash
matters.

xx. He is cautious how he becomes security for any person; and is
generous when urged by motives of humanity.