Chapter XXXVIII: The Locomotive (2)

Oil holes are apt to get choked by gumming, which is that the oil in time forms into a brown gummy substance that fills the oil hole. Perfect lubrication does not imply wasteful lubrication by any means, but a wasteful use of oil is probably less expensive than insufficient lubrication.

A thorough engineer will use no more oil than is necessary; he will leave nothing to conjecture or chance, but know from personal inspection that his engine is in complete working order, and to this end the lubrication of the working parts is a vital element.

After having oiled the eccentric straps, the link motion and the reversing gear beneath the engine, the reversing lever and the parts above the frame must be oiled, and the reversing lever moved back and forth several times, from end to end of the sector or quadrant, so as to distribute the oil throughout the joints and working surfaces.

The axle boxes require careful attention in oiling. In English practice, tallow is packed in the corners of the cavities of the top of the box, so that if the box should begin to heat the tallow will melt, and afford extra lubrication with a heavier lubricant than usual, which will often stop the heating.

The connecting and coupling rods then require attention, the cups being filled and the lubrication adjusted.

When steam is up the gauge glass should be blown through again, and it will be found that the water stands higher in the glass than it did before the boiler was under pressure.

The packing of the piston and of the pump glands, if the engine has pumps, should be known to be properly set up, bearing in mind that a leaky pump gland lets air into the pump and impairs its action.

The sand box should contain dry sand, as wet sand will not feed properly.

If steam is raising too rapidly, close the lower damper to reduce the consumption of fuel and save blowing off steam through the safety valve, which should always be avoided as much as possible.

Before starting the engine, open the cylinder cocks and keep them open until the sound discloses that dry steam, and not steam and water, is issuing.

Open the throttle enough to start the engine easily and not with a jump, and be prepared to shut off steam instantly if a blow in any part of the engine should indicate an obstruction to its working.

In starting a train, the reversing lever is put in the end forward notch and the cylinder cocks opened. Then the throttle is opened a little at first, so as to avoid starting with a violent shock that might break the couplings.

If in starting (or in ascending gradients) the wheels are forced to slip, the sand lever should be operated, a slight sprinkling of sand serving better than a heavy one. If the sand is damp, it will fall in lumps and not distribute evenly as it should do, while at the same time a great deal more sand will be found necessary.

When the train is fairly under way, the aim should be to maintain full boiler pressure, so as to keep up the required speed with the links hooked up to work the steam as expansively as possible, bearing in mind that the higher up the links are hooked the more expansively the steam is used, and that therefore less steam is used to do the work and the boiler pressure can be kept up easier.

To understand this clearly, let it be supposed that the steam pressure in the boiler is 90 lbs. per square inch, and that the piston area is 400 inches, and the total pressure impelling the piston will be 36,000 lbs.; if this follows the piston for 22 inches, the power becomes 792,000 inch lbs. per stroke.

Now suppose the pressure is 150 lbs. per square inch, and this multiplied by the piston area (400) gives 60,000 lbs. impelling the piston, and this would require to follow the piston but 13.2 inches in order to give 792,000 inch lbs. In the one case we have 22 inches, and in the other 13.2 inches of the cylinder to fill with steam. Of course it will take more fuel under the heat of firing to keep the pressure up to the 150 lbs.; but on the other hand, when the steam is cut off in the cylinder there will be 160 lbs. per square inch in it, and all the work that this does in expanding is gained during the rest of the stroke, so that the required amount of power would be obtained by cutting off earlier than at 13 inches.

The water should, under ordinary conditions, be kept at an uniform level in the boiler. Steam can of course be made quicker with a small than with a large quantity of water, but the smaller the quantity of water the more the steam pressure is liable to fluctuate, and the closer the firing must be attended to.

Furthermore, the more water there is in the boiler, the greater the safety, because the longer the boiler can go without feeding, and, if the pumps or injectors, as the case may be, should act imperfectly, there is more time to get them working properly.

In testing the water level, the gauge glass alone is not to be entirely depended upon, hence the gauge cocks should be opened. The water should not be allowed to go below the middle gauge cock.

It is obvious that when the water is below a certain gauge cock, the gauge glass only can give any information as to how far it is below it, hence it must be used for this purpose.

When using it, it should be blown through by opening its lower cock, and if there is any doubt about its showing the proper water level it should be blown through two or three times, watching the level of the water in the glass at each trial.

A constant boiler feeding is the best, as it is more conducive to a uniform boiler pressure and temperature.

The fire should be fed in small charges, the fire door being kept open as little as possible, because a high temperature in the firebox is necessary to perfect combustion. If heavy charges of coal are given at once, then for some time the fire box will be cooled, and then, as the fire burns through, a fierce heat will be generated. This alternate heating and cooling is very destructive to the fire box and the tubes, as it causes an expansion and contraction that rack the joints and seams.

There are several ways of firing, each having its advocate. Upon the following points, however, there is no dispute. First, a slow combustion is the most perfect, because it produces less clinker, which saves fuel and also saves a large amount of fire cleaning and therefore of admission of cold air to the fire box. A high temperature is necessary to combustion, and the temperature of the fuel is most difficult to keep up at the sides of the fire box.

By light and frequent firing the bright fire will never be covered up, hence the temperature will be maintained. This favors an even distribution over a large surface of the fire of each shovelful of coal. But if at any point the draught is lifting the fire, and small bright pieces of fire are lifting up, it is an evidence that the fire is thinnest there or else that the bars are cleanest there. In either case, an extra amount of coal is required at that spot.

Some engineers will charge one side of the fire box lightly and then the other, this being done so as to keep up the temperature in the fire box. Others will fire first the front and then the back of the box, which answers the same purpose, but in no case should the charge be heavy.

A fireman may become so accustomed to the road and his engine, that under some conditions he may fire when he reaches certain points on the road, regulating it like clockwork.

On a trip from Philadelphia to Reading, on an engine having a Wooten fire box (whose special feature is a large fire box, which enables slow combustion), the firing was conducted as follows:

The fire was was not fed or touched until just before reaching Bridgeport, 18 miles from Philadelphia, when a thin layer of coal Was spread evenly on the fire. Eleven miles were then made without opening the fire door, the next firing taking place just before reaching Phoenixville.

Ten miles were run before the next firing, which occurred just before arriving at Pottstown.

The next firing occurred at Bordenboro', three miles from Pottstown. The remaining 8 miles were made without firing. The steam pressure did not vary more than 10 lbs. per square inch during the trip.

On a trip from New York to Philadelphia by the lightning express train the firing was conducted as follows:

The coal was anthracite and in lumps from 5 to 7 inches in diameter; at one end it reached up to the level of the fire door, while at the tube plate end of the fire box it was about 6 inches deep.

The grate bars were constructed to shake in three sections, and shaking the bars to clear out the fire caused it to feed forward of itself, and the combustion of the coal caused it to break up into lumps about 2 inches in diameter at the tube plate, where the fire was much brighter than at the fire door end. The steam pressure varied about 10 lbs. during the trip.

We now come to the best times to fire, to feed, and to oil the valves, and this depends on the level of the road.

On a level road these matters could be attended to with regularity, but as the engine has most work to do in ascending inclines, it is necessary to prepare for such emergencies: First, by having a good fire prepared, so that the fire door may be kept closed as much as possible while the engine is ascending; second, by having plenty of water in the boiler, so as to keep steam, without feeding any more than possible when the engine is calling for more steam, by reason of the reversing lever being put over towards full gear.

The speed is kept well up before reaching the incline, and the reversing lever moved forward a notch or two at a time to maintain the speed, while at the same time moving the sand lever to feed the sand as soon as the engine speed shows signs of reducing.

ACCIDENTS ON THE ROAD.

The accidents to which the locomotive is most liable when running upon the road, and the course to be pursued by the engineer to enable him to take the engine to the depot or complete the trip, are as follows:

KNOCKING OUT THE FRONT CYLINDER HEAD OR COVER.--This arises from various causes, such as a breakage of a connecting rod strap, or of a piston rod or cross head. It is the practice of some locomotive builders to cut in the cylinder cover flange a small groove close to the part that fits the cylinder bore, so that the cover shall break out in the form of a disc, leaving the cover, flange, bolts, and nuts intact, and diminishing the liability to break the cylinder itself as well as the cover.

The provisional remedy for this accident is to take off the connecting rod (on the side of the broken cover) and also the valve motion, either at the rock shaft arm or by taking down the eccentric rod straps. Then place the valve in the centre of its travel so that it shall cover and enclose both the cylinder steam ports and leave the exhaust port open. Then block the cross head firmly on the forward centre, and go ahead with the other cylinder.

HEATING OF PISTON RODS.--This the engineer can often discover by sight, or by smelling it from the cab. The remedy is to stop the engine and slack back the gland until the steam from the engine cylinder leaks freely through the packing. Then apply a little extra lubrication or water while _running slowly_.

BREAKING OF A PISTON ROD.--If the piston rod breaks, but does not knock out the cylinder head or cover, pursue the same course as directed for breaking the cylinder cover, taking the additional precaution to block the piston, which may be done by fitting pieces of wood between the guide bars, making the pieces long enough to fit between the cross head and guide yoke.

The cylinder or waste water cocks on the side of the accident must also be opened, to prevent any leakage of steam past the slide valve from getting into the cylinder and driving the piston against the cylinder cover, and breaking the cylinder cover or even the cylinder itself.

If the piston rod breaks from the cross head, it is safest to remove it from the cylinder, though this is unnecessary, if it be securely blocked against the cylinder head so that it cannot move, though steam may leak in on either side of it.

BREAKING A CRANK PIN.--This is a somewhat frequent accident, but seldom takes place on both sides of the engine at once.

The remedy is to take off all the parallel or coupling rods, and if it is the crank pin on the driving wheels which breaks, take off the connecting rod also, and securely block the cross head, disconnecting the valve motion as before directed, and opening the cylinder waste water cocks. In the case of this accident occurring, it is absolutely essential to take off the parallel rods on both sides of the engine, or otherwise the crank pins on the other side are apt to break.

THROWING OFF A WHEEL TIRE.--In this case the best plan is to block the tireless wheel entirely clear of the track, which may be done by putting a block of wood into the oil cellar of the driving box, and then tow the engine to the repair shop; for if the engine is run to the shop, and the wheel touches the rail, it will impair its diameter for the proper size of tire.

THROWING OFF A DRIVING WHEEL.--This is not a common accident, but nevertheless it sometimes occurs; they break usually just outside of the driving axle box. In this case take out the driving box and fit in its place a block of wood affording journal bearing for the axle. Let this block rest on the pedestal cap, holding the axle up in the centre of the pedestal. Then secure the piston and disconnect the valve gearing and open the cylinder cocks as before, and the engine can be run _slowly_ to the repair shop without danger of further accident, or, if convenient, it can be towed by another engine.

BREAKING A SPRING OR SPRING HANGER.--Lift the engine with the jacks until the driving wheel axle box is about in the centre of the pedestal, and put any convenient piece of iron across the top of the driving axle box and between it and the engine frame, thus taking the weight of the engine on the frame instead of on the spring. Place also a block of iron between the end of the equalizing bar and the top of the engine frame, so as to prevent the movement of the equalizing bar, and to allow the spring at the other end of the equalizing bar to operate without moving the said bar. Every engineer should carry in his tool box pieces of metal suitable for this purpose, because this is a frequent accident. It does not, however, materially affect the working of the engine, and should not delay a train more than a few minutes.

BURSTED FLUES AND TUBES.--These are usually plugged by tapering a piece of pine wood and driving it into the bursted tube by means of an iron bar. Taper iron plugs are often carried, and then driven into the end of the tube after the wooden one has been driven in. To enable this job to be done, it is necessary to thickly cover the fire with green coal, which operates to cool the tubes and prevent the loss of the water in the boiler. Sometimes careful engineers prepare for use pine plugs turned slightly taper, and a little slack, for the inside of the tube. In case of leak, this plug is inserted in the flue, and driven along it until it covers the fracture, the expansion due to its saturation causing it to become locked in the tube.

SLIPPING OF ECCENTRICS.--Place the reverse lever in the forward notch of the sector. Place the crank on its forward dead centre, as near as can be judged by the eye, and loosen the set screw of the forward eccentric, that is to say, the eccentric which connects to the upper end of the link. Move that eccentric round upon the axle until the slide valve leaves the steam port at the front end of the cylinder open to the amount of required valve lead. In moving the eccentric round upon the shaft, move it in the direction in which it will rotate when the engine is running forward, so as to allow for and take up any lost motion there may be in the eccentric straps, in the eccentric rod eyes and bolts, and in the other working parts of the valve gear; for if the eccentric was moved backward, all such lost motion would operate to vitiate the set of the valve. The eccentric being placed as directed fastens its set screw securely.

If the backward eccentric is the loose one, throw the reverse lever to the backward notch of the sector, lifting the link up so that the eccentric connected to the lower end of the link may be approximately adjusted by moving it around upon the axle in the direction in which it will rotate when the engine is running backward, until the back cylinder port is open to the amount of the valve lead. Another very ready plan of temporarily adjusting the eccentrics is as follows: Place the reverse lever in the end notch forward, and place the engine crank or driving crank pin as near on a dead centre as the eye will direct, and open both the cylinder waste water cocks. Then disconnect the slide valve spindle from the rocker arm, and move the slide valve spindle until the opening of the cylinder steam port corresponding to the end of the cylinder at which the piston stands will be shown by steam blowing through the waste water cock at that end of the cylinder; the throttle valve being opened but a trifle, to allow a small steam supply to enter the steam chest and cylinder, for if much steam is admitted, it may pass through a leak in the piston and blow through both the waste water cylinder cocks.

The position of the valve being thus determined, the eccentric must be moved upon the driving axle until the valve spindle will connect with the rocker arm without being moved, or moving the valve at all.

HOT AXLE BOXES.--If not convenient to reduce the speed of the engine, or if that and free lubrication do not cool the box, a plentiful supply of cold water should be administered, it being well to have at hand a small hose pipe, by means of which water from the tender tank can be used. If the brasses have Babbitt metal in them and it should melt, it is better, if possible, to cool the axle box while the engine is moving, which will injure the journal less than if the journal is stopped to cool the box, because in the latter case the brass or box is apt to become soldered to the journal of the axle, and when the engine is again started, the cutting or abrasion will recommence with extreme violence.

BREAKING A LIFTING LINK OR THE SADDLE PIN THAT CONNECTS THE SLOT LINK TO THE REVERSE SHAFT.--Cut a piece of wood and tie it into the slot of the link, over the link block or die, making it of a length to keep the link in the position for hauling the train. Then fasten another piece of wood in the link slot beneath the sliding block or die, thus securing that die in the proper position for the engine to go ahead. In this case, the engineer must be careful in stopping, as he cannot reverse the engine on the crippled side.

Secondary accidents are almost sure to occur if a disconnected piston is not securely blocked in the cylinder, or from blocking the piston aright and attempting to let the slide valve run, or from attempting to run with the parallel rods on one side only disconnected. There are numerous accidents, which only common sense and a familiarity with the locomotive can provide a temporary remedy for, but those here enumerated are by far the most common.

ADJUSTING THE PARTS OF A LOCOMOTIVE.

When the wedges of the axle boxes are to be adjusted for fit to the pedestal shoes, the engine should be moved until the coupling rods on one side of the engine are in line with the piston rod, because in this position the rod will, to a certain extent, act as a guide in keeping the axles parallel to each other, and at a right angle to the line of engine centres.

Bear in mind that the distance from the centre to centre of axle boxes must be the same as the distance from centre to centre of the crank pins, and that when the coupling or side rods are in line with the piston rod, they act to resist the axle boxes from being set up too close together.

The importance of a proper adjustment of the axle boxes, coupling boxes, and connecting rods cannot be overestimated, and it is necessary therefore to explain it thoroughly. In Fig. 3350, then, _s_, _s_ represent two wheel axles, whose boxes are between their wedges. At S, S´ are the screws for setting up the shoes or wedges W and W´ respectively. The axles are shown on the line of centres C, C of the engine, the piston being at the head end of the cylinder, and the crank pins on the line of centres as denoted by the small black circles. The wedges W and W´ are shorter than the leg of the pedestal, so that they may be set up by the set screws S and S´, and take up the wear.

In some engines the wedges V and V´ are also shorter for the same purpose. Now it is clear that setting up the screws S and S´ will move the axles _s_, _s´_ to the left, and this will alter the clearance between the piston when it is at the end of the stroke and the cylinder cover.

It is clear that the distance between the centres of the two axles must be the same as the distance between the centres of the two crank pins, or else the frame will be subjected to a great strain, tending to break the crank pins and the side rods.

In order to keep the clearance equal and to know when it is equal, it is necessary, at some time when the cylinder cover at the head end is off, to disconnect the connecting rod and push the piston clear up against the left hand cylinder cover, and from the cross head as a guide, make on the side of the guide a line L´. Then put on the cylinder cover at the head end and push the piston up against it and mark a line L. Then when the connecting rod is put on again, the wheels may be moved around if the engine is jacked up, or, if not, the engine may be moved along the rails with a pinch bar, and the clearance will be equal when the cross head (at the ends of the stroke) comes within an equal distance of the respective lines L´, L when the crank is on the dead centres, and it is well to adjust the wedges W W´ so that the cross head does travel within an equal distance, and mark on the guide bar two more lines, one at each end of the bar.

These lines are a permanent guide in setting up the shoes or wedges, and lining up the connecting rods, and coupling or side rods, because it is clear that from the method employed in marking them the distance between the end of the cross head, when at the end of its stroke, and the line L, and that between the face of the piston and the cylinder cover, will be equal.

A proper adjustment, therefore, should be made as follows: The piston should be at the end of its stroke, the crank pins being on the line of centres.

Screw S should be operated to set up the wedge W, taking up the wear of the sides of the box, and bringing the edge of the cross head the proper distance from the line L. The connecting rod brasses should then be set up to fit the pins, and the screw S´ operated to set up wedge W´ to have easy contact with the side of its axle box. If, however, there has been so much wear on the axle boxes that they are still too loose between the wedges, both wedges may be set up to take up this wear, since it is more important to have the axle boxes a proper fit between the wedges than it is to maintain an exactly equal amount of clearance at each end of the cylinder.

The engine will then be in proper tram on this side, or, in other words, the distance from the centre to centre of the crank pins will be the same as that from centre to centre of the axles.

On the other side of the engine the process is the same, the engine being moved until the crank pins are on the line of centres C C and the wedges set up according to the lines.