Chapter I: Front Matter (1)

Mr. RAY’s Travels.

VOL. II.

A
COLLECTION
OF CURIOUS
Travels and Voyages.
CONTAINING,
Dr. _Leonhart Rauwolf_’s Journey
Into the _Eastern_ Countries, _viz._
SYRIA, PALESTINE, or the HOLY LAND, ARMENIA,
MESOPOTAMIA, ASSYRIA, CHALDEA, _&c._

Translated from the Original _High Dutch_,
By _NICHOLAS STAPHORST_.

AND ALSO,
TRAVELS into GREECE, ASIA _minor_, EGYPT,
ARABIA _felix_, PETRÆA, ETHIOPIA, the RED
SEA, _&c._

Collected from the Observations of
Mons. BELON, PROSPER ALPINUS, Dr. HUNTINGDON,
Mr. VERNON, Sir GEORGE WHEELER, Dr.
SMITH, Mr. GREAVES, and others.

To which are added three Catalogues of such
_Trees_, _Shrubs_, and _Herbs_, as grow in the LEVANT.

By the Rev. _JOHN RAY_, F. R. S.

The SECOND EDITION Corrected and Improved.

VOL. II.

_LONDON_:
Printed for _J. Walthoe_, _D. Midwinter_, _A. Bettesworth_,
and _C. Hitch_, _W. Innys_, _R. Robinson_, _J. Wilford_, _A.
Ward_, _J._ and _P. Knapton_, _T. Longman_, _O. Payne_, _W.
Shropshire_, _J._ and _R. Tonson_, _T. Woodman_, _R. Chandler_,
and _J. Wellington_. 1738.

THE CONTENTS.

PART. I.

Chap. I. _Which way I went first of all, from ~Augspurg~ to
~Marseilles~, and from thence shipped over the Seas towards
~Tripoli~ of ~Syria~, situated in ~Phœnecia~._ pag. 1

Chap. II. _Of the famous city of ~Tripoli~, of it’s fruitful
neighbourhood and great trade; and also of the splendid baths,
and other magnificent buildings to be seen there. Their ways of
making Rusma, Pot-ashes, Soap, ~&c.~_ p. 14

Chap. III. _Of the ~Turks~ of high and low conditions, men
and women; of their employments, offices, manners, customs,
cloaths, as much as I could at ~Tripoli~ (during my abode)
understand, see, and learn thereof._ p. 26

Chap. IV. _A description of the plants I gathered at
~Tripoli~._ p. 35

Chap. V. _Which way I travell’d from ~Tripoli~ farther to the
two famous cities of ~Damant~ and ~Aleppo~._ p. 42

Chap. VI. _Of the situation of the potent city of ~Aleppo~; of
the buildings thereof, and also of the delicate fruits and
fine plants, that grow there, within and without gardens._ p. 45

Chap. VII. _Of the high places and authority of Bashaws, what
great courts they keep, and how they administer their offices;
as also of their way of living, of their privileges, of their
manners and conversation._ p. 51

Chap. VIII. _Of the great trading and dealing of the city of
~Aleppo~; as also several sorts of their meats and drinks; of
their ceremonies, and their peculiar way of sitting down at
meals._ p. 61

Chap. IX. _A short and plain relation of plants, which I
gather’d during my stay at ~Aleppo~, in and round about it, not
without great danger and trouble, which I glued upon paper very
carefully._ p. 73

PART. II.

Chap. I. _How I departed from ~Aleppo~ to the famous city of
~Bir~; and how I sailed from thence on the ~Euphrates~ to Old
~Babylon~._ p. 87

Chap. II. _Which way we went into the ship, and sailed to
~Racka~; and how the son of the King of ~Arabia~, with his
retinue came to our ship to demand his customs; what else we
saw by the way, and what we did suffer from the ~Arabians~ and
their Mendicants._ p. 96

Chap. III. _Of the city of ~Racka~, and of it’s situation; and
also something of the departure of the King of ~Arabia~; and of
his league with the ~Turkish~ Emperor; and also of the trouble
we had with the Custom-house-officer or ~Publican~._ p. 110

Chap. IV. _Of the inhabitants of the mountains, and the
great wilderness we came through to ~Deer~; of their ancient
origination, and miserable and laborious livelihood._ p. 117

Chap. V. _Of our voyage to the famous town ~Ana~, in which
we passed again through great sandy wildernesses; for the
performance whereof we must provide ourselves with victuals,
and be very careful in our navigation. Some relation of the
inhabitants, of their cloaths, and other things we did observe
and see by the way, and what else did happen unto us._ p. 124

Chap. VI. _Which way we travell’d from ~Ana~ farther to Old
~Babylon~, by some ancient towns call’d ~Haddidt~, ~Juppe~,
~Idt~, and saw more pleasant, fruitful and well cultivated
fields on each side than before._ p. 132

Chap. VII. _Of Old ~Babylon~ the Metropolis of ~Chaldee~, and
it’s situation; and how it is still to this day, after it’s
terrible desolation, to be seen, with the tower or turret, and
the old ruined walls lying in the dust._ p. 137

Chap. VIII. _Of the famous city of ~Bagdat~, call’d ~Baldac~;
of it’s situation, strange plants, great traffick, and
Merchants of several nations that live there, together with
several other things I saw and did learn at my departing._ p. 142

Chap. IX. _Which way I came in my return from ~Bagdat~, through
~Assyria~, the confines of ~Persia~, and the province of the
~Curters~, to the town ~Carcuch~, ~Capril~, &c. and at length
to the river ~Tygris~, to ~Mossel~, that famous town which was
formerly call’d ~Nineveh~._ p. 159

Chap. X. _Which way we went through ~Mesopotamia~, by the way
of ~Zibin~ and ~Orpha~, to ~Bir~, not without a great deal
of danger; and afterwards how we passed the great river, the
~Euphrates~, and came at last into ~Syria~, by ~Nisib~, to the
famous town of ~Aleppo~._ p. 168

Chap. XI. _Of the ~Turkish~ Physicians and Apothecaries; of my
comrade ~Hans Ulrich Krafft~ of ~Ulm~’s hard imprisonment; of
the great danger that I was in, in the two towns of ~Aleppo~
and ~Tripoli~; of the murdering of some Merchants, and what
else did happen when I was there._ p. 179

Chap. XII. _Of the large and high mount of ~Libanus~, it’s
inhabitants and strange plants that are found there._ p. 186

Chap. XIII. _Cunning and deceitful stratagems of the ~Grand
Turk~ against the inhabitants of mount ~Libanus~, the ~Trusci~,
and ~Maronites~; and how he made war with them, and what damage
they sustained by it._ p. 198

PART. III.

Chap. I. _A Short description of his departure from ~Tripoli~,
a town of ~Phœnicia~ in ~Syria~, and how I went from thence to
~Joppa~._ p. 203

Chap. II. _A short relation of my travels by land from the
harbour of ~Joppa~, to the city of ~Jerusalem~._ p. 212

Chap. III. _A plain description of the city of ~Jerusalem~, as
it was to be seen in our time; and of the adjacent countries._ p. 220

Chap. IV. _Of mount ~Sion~, and it’s holy places._ p. 229

Chap. V. _Of the mount ~Moria~, and the glorious temple of
~Solomon~._ p. 239

Chap. VI. _Of the ~Saracens~ and ~Turkish~ religion, ceremonies
and hypocritical life, with a short hint how long time their
reign shall last after ~Mahomet~’s decease._ p. 257

Chap. VII. _Of mount ~Bethzetha~, and the two houses of
~Pilate~ and ~Herod~._ p. 258

Chap. VIII. _Of mount ~Calvaria~, and the holy grave of our
Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ._ p. 260

Chap. IX. _Here follow some epitaphs of the Christian Kings of
~Jerusalem~, together with a short relation of their reigns and
mighty deeds._ p. 271

Chap. X. _A common account of several sorts of Christians, but
chiefly of them that are always to be found in the temple of
mount ~Calvaria~. And also how these, and many other strangers,
are treated by the ~Turkish~ Emperor (as by their chief head,
to whom they are generally subjected) and his officers._ p. 275

Chap. XI. _Of the ~Greeks~._ p. 288

Chap. XII. _Of the ~Surians~ that esteem themselves to be
Christians._ p. 290

Chap. XIII. _Of the ~Gregorians~._ p. 291

Chap. XIV. _Of the ~Armenians~ and their religion._ p. 292

Chap. XV. _Of the ~Nestorians~._ p. 294

Chap. XVI. _Of the ~Jacobites~ call’d ~Golti~._ p. 296

Chap. XVII. _Of the ~Abyssins~, Priest ~John~, call’d
~Lederwick~, subject unto the King of the ~Moors~._ p. 297

Chap. XVIII. _Of the ~Maronites~._ p. 300

Chap. XIX. _Of the ~Latinists~ or ~Papists~._ p. 301

Chap. XX. _Of the Knights of the Temple of ~Jerusalem~, the
Order of the ~Johannites~._ p. 304

Chap. XXI. _A short description of some places, hills, valleys,
~&c.~ that lie near and about ~Jerusalem~. Of the mount of
~Olives~, and it’s holy places._ p. 309

Chap. XXII. _Of ~Bethlehem~, the mountains of ~Judea~, and
their famous places. Where also is made mention of my returning
back from ~Jerusalem~ to ~Tripoli~._ p. 316

Chap. XXIII. _How I took ship at ~Tripolis~ in ~Syria~, and
sailed back from thence to ~Venice~, and travell’d home again
to my own relations at ~Augspurg~._ p. 327

VOL. II.

Chap. I. _Mr ~Belon~’s remarks in the island of ~Creta~ or
~Candy~._ p. 341

Chap. II. _A description of mount ~Athos~, commonly call’d
~Monte Santo~, by Mr ~Belon~._ p. 345

Chap. III. _An account of a journey by land from mount ~Athos~
to ~Constantinople~, wherein the gold and silver mines of
~Macedonia~, together with many antiquities and natural
rarities are described._ p. 349

Chap. IV. _The ways of fishing on the ~Propontis~, the
~Bosphorus~, and ~Hellespont~; as also of the fishes taken. By
M. ~Belon~._ p. 353

Chap. V. _Of some beasts and mechanic trades at
~Constantinople~._ p. 354

_Mr ~Francis Vernon~’s letter, written to Mr ~Oldenburg~, ~Jan
10, 1675-6~._ p. 355

_Some plants observed by Sir ~George Wheeler~, in his Voyage to
~Greece~ and ~Asia minor~._ p. 364

_Historical observations relating to ~Constantinople~, by
the reverend and learned ~Tho. Smith~, D.D. Fellow of ~Magd.
College Oxon.~ and of the ~Royal Society~._ p. 368

_An account of the city of ~Prusa~ in ~Bithynia~, and a
continuation of the historical observations relating to
~Constantinople~._ p. 380

_An account of the latitude of ~Constantinople~ and ~Rhodes~;
by the learned Mr ~John Greaves~._ p. 404

Chap. VI. _Some observations made in a Voyage to ~Egypt~, by Mr
~Belon~._ p. 409

_More Observations made in ~Egypt~, by ~Guilandinus~, ~Alpinus~
and others_.

Chap. I. _Of the weather and seasons in ~Egypt~._ p. 411

Chap. II. _Of the meats and drinks of ~Egypt~._ p. 412

Chap. III. _Of the diseases and physic._ p. 414

_Of the Pyramids of ~Egypt~, by Mr ~Greaves~, Professor of
Astronomy in the University of ~Oxford~. A description of the
first Pyramid._ p. 417

_A description of the second Pyramid._ p. 436

_A description of the third Pyramid, out of Mr ~Belon~, and Mr
~Greaves~._ p. 439

_Of the rest of the Pyramids in the ~Libian~ desart._ p. 441

_In what manner the Pyramids were built._ p. 443

_Of the ~Pyramids~, ~Sphynx~, ~Mummies~, &c. by Father
~Vansleb~ and others._ p. 448

_Of the ~Sphynx~._ p. 452

_Of the wells where the ~Mummies~ are._ p. 453

_A description of an entire body of a ~Mummy~._ p. 457

_A letter from ~Dublin~ concerning the Porphyry pillars in
~Egypt~, by Dr ~Huntingdon~._ p. 461

_A journey from ~Grand Cairo~ to ~Mecca~._ p. 467

_Of the Aga sent to meet the Caravan upon their return._ p. 470

_Of ~Mecca~ and ~Medina~._ p. 472

_An extract of a journey through part of ~Arabia Felix~, from
the copy in ~Ramusio~’s collection._ p. 475

_Some observations made by Sir ~Henry Middleton~, and other
~Englishmen~ in ~Arabia Felix~, &c._ p. 477

_Of the ways and roads between ~Egypt~ and ~Ethiopia~._ p. 479

_Of ~Ethiopia~: By ~Michael~ of ~Tripoli~, Embassador from the
~Habessine~ Emperor to the Grand Signior._ p. 481

_More Observations of ~Ethiopia~, by Father ~Lobo~, Father
~Alvarez~, Father ~Tellez~, and others; extracted from their
~Portuguese~ voyages._ p. 487

Dr _Leonhart Rauwolff_’s

TRAVELS

INTO THE

Eastern Countries.

In which is chiefly treated, how he got into _Syria_, and what strange things he there saw and observed.

PART. I.

CHAP. I.

_Which way I went first of all, from ~Augspurg~ to ~Marseilles~, and from thence shipped over the seas towards ~Tripoli~ of ~Syria~, situated in ~Phœnicia~._

I having always had a natural inclination, almost from my infancy, to travel into foreign Countries, but chiefly into the Eastern ones, which have been of old celebrated for fertility, which were cultivated by the most ancient people, and whose princes in former ages, have been the most potent monarchs of the world; not only to observe their lives, manners and customs, but chiefly to gain a clear and distinct knowledge of those delicate herbs, described by _Theophrastus_, _Dioscorides_, _Avicenna_, _Serapio_, &c. by viewing them in their proper and native places, partly that I might more exactly describe them, especially the most strange and rare; partly also, to provoke the Apothecaries to endeavour to procure those that are necessary for them to have in their shops: I strove always to put this my desire into execution, but was forced to defer it until, in the year of our Lord 1573, I found an opportunity, by my honour’d brother-in-law Mr _Melchior Manlick_, senior, which was very convenient. He received me presently, (having before a design to increase the number of them that were employ’d in his trade) and fitted me out for my voyage, that I might go with the first company that should travel for _Marseilles_, and then from thence farther in one of their ships to _Tripoli_, situated in that part of _Syria_ which is call’d _Phœnicia_.

After that my honour’d friend, Mr _Frederick Rentzen_, of that same city, was come to me, we set out the _18th_ of _May_, _Anno 1573_, from _Augspurg_ towards _Lindaw_, designing to go through _Piedmont_ to _Milan_ and _Nissa_, and so farther: The same day we came to _Mindelheim_, a very pleasant town with a princely castle, situated upon the _Mindel_, then belonging to the baron of _Frundsberg_.

The _19th_ at noon we came to _Memmingen_, a very pleasant city of the empire, and at night to _Leutkirch_.

The _20th_ we rode thorough _Wangen_, another imperial city, situated in _Algaw_, where they drove a very good trade with fine ticking and linnen cloth; about noon we arrived at _Lindaw_, an imperial city situated in the _Boden_ sea, where there is a very great depository or staple of all sorts of commodities or merchandizes: some have call’d this the _German Venice_, because it is in like manner situated in water, and hath also a great trade. After dinner we crossed the lake towards _Fuzach_, a village not far from _Bregentz_, towards the _Rhine_.

The _21st_ about breakfast-time we came to _Veldkirch_, a very pleasant town, situated upon the _Yll_, belonging now to the house of _Austria_, but formerly to the counts of _Montfort_. By the way I saw several fine plants, _viz._ _Saxifraga Aurea_, _Caryophyllata Alpina_, a fine sort of _Bellis-major_, _Christa galli_ with white flowers, and _Auricula Ursi_ with brown flowers, _&c._ At night we came to _Mayenfeld_, belonging to the _Grawpunters_, upon the _Rhine_, which runs by the town, and there runs into it a river call’d _Camingen_, which slides down between high rocks, where the famous warm bath (from an adjacent abby, call’d _Pfeffers_) riseth, which may be numbered amongst the wonderful waters, in regard of it’s admirable operation in strengthening lame and contracted members, and hath this property beyond other baths, that it loseth itself from _October_ till _May_, and then it cometh on again powerfully.

The _22d_ we came at night to _Chur_, a very ancient city, where also is a deposition of Goods that are brought thither from _Germany_ by pack-horses over the mountains. A seat of that Bishop lyeth half an hour’s going from the _Rhine_, wherefore this bishopric is accounted the chief of all the bishoprics of the _Rhine_, or the _Pfaffen gaste_, call’d by others, because it is situated near the first beginning of the _Rhine_, according to the ancient proverb: _Costentz_ the biggest, _Basil_ the pleasantest, _Strasburg_ the noblest, _Spires_ the devoutest, _Worms_ the poorest, _Mentz_ the worthiest, _Trier_ the ancientest, and _Collen_ the richest.

The _23d_ we rode to _Tusis_, an ancient village belonging to the _Grawpunters_, the name whereof shews it’s original, for the _Rhetians_ are descended from the _Tuscans_, who under the conduct of one _Rhætus_ of old took possession of those countries; not far off upon a high mountain is still situated a ruin’d castle, call’d _Realt_, or which is righter, _Rhœtia alta_, deriv’d also from the _Rhetians_.

The _24th_ at noon we came by the _Splewer-hill_ into a village call’d _Splugi_, not far from the beginning, head, or sourse of the _Rhine_: Thence we passed over the hill, and came at night to a little village call’d _Gampolschin_, situated in a valley of the same name, where we rested.

Monday the _25th_ at noon we came to _Clæven_, or _Clavenna_, a very ancient town, belonging to the _Bunts_, which had anciently a strong castle, which was demolished by the _Grawpunters_ themselves, _Anno 1524_, after it was cunningly taken from them by _Castel de Maess_ and _John Jacob de Medicis_, in which bustle the town was also ruin’d, for the gates and walls were beaten down, that no enemy might after that lodge himself there again. From _Clæven_ we went to _Riva_ upon the _Lago di como_, where the water _Addua_ runs into the lake, and yet notwithstanding adds no water to it, nor taketh any from it, but only runs strait through it; and so doth the _Rhine_ through the lake call’d the _Boden-Sea_: From thence we travell’d to _Gera_ upon the same lake, where we lay all night. On the bank I saw some purple-colour’d lillies, a sort of _Lilium Saracenicum_ with small leaves, and in the old walls the _Cymbalaria_.

The _26th_ about noon we came to _Como_, a very glorious and pleasant city, from whence the lake hath it’s name to this day. From thence we rode the same night to _Milan_, the metropolis of that dukedom. What strange passages have been committed in this town before it was possessed by the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth, after the decease of the last duke _Francis Sfortia_, is related sufficiently in History.

The _27th_ we rode through _Binasco_, a pleasant village, where the very learned and famous _Andreas Alciatus_, Doctor in Law, and Professor of several Universities in _France_ and _Italy_, hath built a very glorious palace; and in the evening passing by the great park (in which in the year 1525, was fought that bloody battel between _Francis_ King of _France_, and the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth’s officers, in which the King himself was made prisoner, and many of his men kill’d) the same night arrived at _Pavia_, an ancient glorious city, situated on the river _Tesin_, where the Kings of the _Longobards_ did formerly keep their courts, and afterwards _Charles the Great_, the first _German_ Emperor, did institute an University, which has brought up many eminent and learned men since.

The _28th_ departing from _Pavia_, we passed the River _Padus_, or _Eridanus_, which is believed to be the biggest river in _Italy_, to _Vogera_, a pleasant village, situated on the river _Stafora_, there we began to take post, and had eighteen stages to _Nissa_: By noon we arrived at _Dertona_, a pretty town, yet not very full of people, by reason of the many wars and intestine quarrels in which it was engaged, belonging to the Duke of _Milan_. In this country I found whole acres sown with _Wood_, and there I saw the _White Poplar_, also _Millefolium flore luteo_, and farther upon the hill _Brotho_ the _Cineraria_, and the _Stœchas Citrina_, _Cotinus Plinii_, and many more fine plants. At night we came to _Alexandria della Paglia_, that is to say, _of Chaff_. When heavy and long wars did arise between the Emperor _Frederick_ the first, and the towns of _Lombardy_, by instigation of Pope _Alexander_ the third, the towns of _Lombardy_ did agree to compile this city out of several villages in the year 1168, and did fortify it the year next ensuing, and call’d it, after the Pope’s name, _Alexandria_; but the _Imperialists_ call’d it _Alexandria of Straw_, which name it doth retain to this day; yet we did not stay there, but rode the same night to _Bellizona_, a strong place, which perhaps formerly had it’s own princes, which did sell it from _Uri_ and his relations, because they could not defend it from the Duke of _Milan_ in the year 1422, and yet it cost a great deal of blood, until the _Switzers_ got it into safe possession in the year 1500.

The _29th_ at noon we came to _Ast_, a considerable city belonging to the dukedom of _Milan_, where the King of _Spain_ keeps a garrison, which had just then received the new Governour of _Milan_, and conducted him into the city. Not far off lieth _Carmagnola_, belonging to the King of _France_, and to the Marquisate of _Saluzo_, where is kept a _French_ garrison, as at _Moncalier_, which is very near it, the Duke of _Savoy_ hath a garrison; and so garrisons of three eminent princes lie very near one another. That night we lodged in a pitiful village call’d _Baieron_.

The _30th_ we rode thro’ _Racones_ and _Savigliano_, two small villages, and at night came to _Coni_.

The last of _May_, after we had broke our fast in a village call’d _Limona_, we came to mount _Brothus_, where we saw many pleasant vineyards; and so by _Tenda_ into another village, call’d _Sorgo_, where we staid all night.

The first of _June_ we reached to _Nissa_ in the morning, a city with a strong citadel, upon the _Tyrrhenian_ sea, belonging to the Duke of _Savoy_, which the _Turkish_ Admiral _Barbarossa_ did for a long time besiege with great fury, and yet was forc’d to leave it, although he had the city in his possession, in the year 1543. Thither also came _Francis_ King of _France_, and the Emperor _Charles_ the fifth, to Pope _Paul_ the third, to have peace made between them. Thereabouts I espy’d some fine plants, but chiefly two sorts of _Papaver Corniculatum_, with large and stately flowers, yellow and brown; and also the _Ladanum latifolium_, and upon the hill towards _Villa Franca_, a _Convolvulus_ with white and purple-strip’d flowers, and with long and cut leaves.

The second we went from thence with more company, passing through the villages of _Antibo_, _Cacabo_, _Luc_, _Brignola_, _&c._ (where I found in the shops a sort of very delicate preserved Prunes, call’d in _English Prunellos_’s, which would be very useful in burning fevers against the thirst, in great quantity) to _Marseilles_, which maketh thirty _French_ miles or leagues; and we rode so fast onward, during this journey, that we arrived there in nineteen days after our departure, that is, on the fifth day of _June_: By the way I saw _Convolvulus foliis acutis_, _Rubia Tinctorum_, _Stœchas_, a fine _Sesely Peloponnesiacum_, _Thymelæa_, _Cistus_ with white and purple flowers, and also a kind of _Ladanum_ of the learned _Carolus Clusius_, with small Rosemary-leaves, _Terebinthus_, _Ilex Coccifera_, _Aspalathus_, and the _Polemonium Monspeliensium_ of _Rembert Dodonæus_, call’d _Trifolium fruticans_, _Ruscus_, _Lentiscus_, _Calamintha montana_, some common thistles, and others.

In _Marseilles_ where I was lodged in my forenam’d kinsman’s house, to stay untill the ships were ready, I met with one _John Ulrich Kraft_, son of _John Kraft_, one of the Privy Council at _Ulm_, who was arrived there a few days before, also with the same intention to go along with us, about his own business. We staid together, and while the ships were fitting out, we made ourselves acquainted with the Physicians and Apothecaries, but above the rest with one experienced man, _Jacob Renaud_, a great lover of plants, who shew’d me in his garden many pretty and strange simples, _viz._ _Scammonium verum_, _Ambrosia_, _Moly_, _Ammi_, _Aloës_, _&c._, and a great many dry’d and laid between papers. I found also about the city, _Trifolium Asphaltites_, _Lactuca marina_, _Dendillaria_, _Tragacantha Guilhelmi Rondeletii_, a great _Scabiosa_ with white flowers, _Gratiola_, _Gnaphalium marinum_, _Medica marina_, _Polygonum marinum_, _Eryngium marinum_, _Coris Monspeliensium_, another sort of _Tamariscus_, and of _Consolida_, with yellow sweet flowers, which I also found between _Nimes_, and _Pont du gard_, an old, strong, and fine building, upon which I did find _Ruta Silvestris_, a sort of _Verbascum foliis dissectis_, _Papaver corniculatum flore flavo_; I also found thereabouts _Chondrilla Viminea_, growing chiefly in the vineyards, _Conyza major_, _Vermicularis fruticans_, _Carduus tomentosus_, not unlike to _Leucacantha_, _Nepa Lobelii in adversariis novis_; I also found _Tartonrayre_, _Aster atticus luteus_, _Psyllium_, _Seseli Æthiopicum fruticans_, _Jujubes_, _red Valeriana_, _Corruda Rembert. Dodon._, the first kind of _Catanance Dioscor._, which I first spy’d by it’s dry’d leaves, just like a Vulture’s claw, and many others, not needful to be here related.

After that the ship _Santa Croce_ was laden, victuall’d for three months, and provided with guns, and all other necessaries for a three months voyage; we two went with our master, _Anthony Reinard_, with some others belonging to him, in a frigat, the first day of _September_, in the year 1673, to our ship, which lay at anchor with several other laden ships, near the adjacent islands, with an intention to set sail the next day.

The next day about two in the afternoon, when God sent us a good wind, we hoisted up our sails, and went on: When our patron began to exhort his men to agree together, and to be obedient to him, which they all faithfully promised; then we went to prayers, and recommended ourselves to the protection of God Almighty.

In the first setting out, before we got to sea, our ship came so near to another, that they touch’d almost; and had not the seamen in time got them off, we might have suffer’d shipwreck.

When this was over, and we out of danger, we sail’d on with full sails six of us, and advanc’d so fairly, that we lost the sight of land before night, and could see nothing but sky and water.

Not long after, most of us began to be sea-sick, and to bring up what we had eaten some days before, but I and my comrade _Kraft_ purged ourselves that night so well, that we were very fresh again the next morning. Some of the rest remain’d sick for seven days after, and not one of us, altho’ we were forty eight, but was sick, and found an alteration after our shipping off.

After we had sail’d two days with a favourable wind, by the _Latins_ call’d _Caurus_, but by the _French_ and _Italians_, _Maistral_, which bloweth between north and west, and proceeded an hundred _French_ leagues, there arose on the fourth day about midnight another wind, call’d _Græco_, and by the _Latins_, _Cæcias_, which the more it went to the east, the more it was against us; so that we being hindred from going eastward, were forced to go sideways, and to traverse up and down, and were driven so far southwards, that on sunday night and monday morning we sail’d in sight of the coast of _Barbary_. After the wind was laid a little, and the dolphins appear’d in great numbers, we hoped for better weather, but for want of it, finding ourselves advance towards _Africa_ more and more, we were forced to tack about, and to direct our course towards _Marseilles_ again.

We going thus back again, contrary to our intentions, feared that the wind would hold so a while, but contrary to our expectation, it came to be so calm towards the night, that we could hardly perceive any. Then we hoped it would change, which did also succeed accordingly, for the next morning before break of day the _Maistral_ began to blow again, which pleased us extremely, and so we return’d and pursued our former course again towards the east, and on monday we sail’d so fast, that in an hours time we made ten _Italian_ miles, and on the 9th day came into the streights of _Sardinia_ and _Africa_, where we saw an island call’d _Gallicia_, which, altho’ it be but small, yet, because of the high mountains, is seen afar off; we left it about thirty leagues on one side of us. This island is subject to no body, wherefore a great many pirates lye lurking there: In it is no great matter to be seen, only wild Capers grow there in great plenty. We, finding ourselves in this dangerous place, were not idle, altho’ the ship was well provided with guns, pikes, and other arms, but got our great guns ready, and fill’d our chamber, in which we two were, with guns and swords, so that it look’d rather like an armoury of the whole ship than a chamber. Moreover, because we were afraid of some huge rocks that lye in the sea, chiefly of them which the seamen call _Leuci_, they observ’d them diligently, not only in their sea chart, to know which way they might avoid them, but kept a good watch all that night to observe them, and so with the help of God we got safely clear of them.

A little after we came in view of the kingdom of _Tunis_ in _Africa_, with some adjacent islands; amongst them there is one call’d _Simles_, which, tho’ but small, is very fruitful, and therein groweth the best _Aristolochia rotunda_ in abundance.

We lost this the next morning, and westward upon our right hand, at about forty miles distance, we saw another, call’d _Panthalarea_, subject to the King of _Spain_, which is inhabited by above three hundred people; _Sicily_ on our left, because the night fell in, we did not then see, but came so near it, that early in the morning we could not only see the hills and mountains, and chiefly the _Mongibello_, which is very high, situated at the other side of the famous city of _Syracusa_, but also the buildings and steeples distinctly; we sail’d also the whole day by that side that lieth over-against the isle of _Malta_, so long till we came to the last point thereof: And altho’ we were not in a little danger there, because of the war, yet we saw no more than one small ship early in the morning by _Malta_, which we took to be of _Marseilles_. So, God be praised, we arrived very well, and without any hindrance at the farthest point of _Sicily_, on the 11th day of _September_ in the evening, which is reckon’d to be 900 _Italian_ miles from _Marseilles_; and we hoped also with the help of the Almighty to go the rest of our voyage to _Cyprus_, which is 1300 more, three of which are reckon’d to a _French_ league, for we crossed the _Adriatick_ and _Tyrrhenian_ seas, so happily by good weather, as if we had gone the other way through the streights. And although we sail’d on very fast, yet the wind was uncertain, for one arose after another, so that we had three several winds that night and day, _viz._ first, _Maistral_ after midnight, which lasted until morning; then the _Betsch_, that blew from south-west very violently, in _Latin_ call’d _Africus_, which lasted till night; then follow’d the _Ponente_, which bloweth from the west towards night, which commonly ariseth upon the coast of _Africa_, as the old seamen observe, and we found it so ourselves, on the day of the Holy Cross, not without trouble or danger; for as the seamen kept that day, and according to their old custom discharged three great guns, the _Betsch_ arose immediately with very great violence, so that the waves swell’d very high, and the ship was toss’d about from one side to the other, and did rock us so, that if we had not held ourselves, we could not have kept our places, as did happen to some of our company that did not observe this, and were strangely tumbled about in the ship, and forc’d to creep on all fours to their places again. This wind began to remit towards night, when the _Maistral_ began to blow. With this _Maistral_ we went on, and came so far, that on monday the 15th of _September_ early, we did make the island _Candy_, and soon after another, now call’d _Cerigo_, anciently _Cythera_, near to the _Morea_. That day we had very good weather, and it was so calm that we could reach no further than to the point of _Candy_. Thus going on, another wind arose, blowing from south-east, call’d _Sirocco_, and in _Latin_, _Vulturnus_, which was contrary too, and hinder’d us very much, so that we were forced to sail upon one side, to weather the point from one side to the other; when we came to the side of _Creet_, and our patron would neither land in _Candy_ nor in a little island call’d _Legosia_, we turn’d on wednesday towards _Africa_. Some while after, a very great tempest arose, with thunder and lightning, so that we had work enough with our sails, and to rule the ship that it might take no hurt; and we sailing thus against the wind, that it might not cast us back, this made us more work than the rest, for the waves went against us so vehemently, that when we were mounted to the top of a wave, we seem’d to look down thence into a deep and dark valley; then down we went again with such a fury, that we thought we should descend to the bottom, which continued almost till the next morning. And although the tempest had thrown us a good way back, yet in a little time we got so far forward again, that we could descry _Candy_, and the little island _Legosia_. Just then we spy’d two ships, one a bark, ten miles off to the left, and the other a great ship going to _Africa_.

After we were thus gone along by _Creet_, we came on friday just over-against the city of _Candy_; it came to be so calm and so warm, that we could hardly perceive we were come above three or four miles. We going thus slowly, some of our company jump’d out into the sea to wash themselves; but the mate of our ship run a fish through with a long spear for that purpose, call’d _Lischa_, and so pull’d it out; this was delicately colour’d, and very pleasant to look upon; his back was blew, and his belly white and glisning, above a yard long, of a tender flesh, and very good to eat: This seems to have been a _Tunny_.

Just over-against it is a monastry of St _Francis_, in which is a very good Apothecary’s shop, and a delicate garden, fill’d with strange and useful plants.

There is also not far off a good and safe port, call’d _Calisme_, where we would willingly have taken in water, but because it lay thirty miles before us, and the wind, _Sirocco_, contrary to us, began to blow again, and hindred us in this enterprise; we steer’d on saturday towards the south, that we might reach it the next morning.

About noon, when we turn’d again to the _Porto_, we saw another ship on the left, and because we did not know how to trust her, we look’d to our great guns, of which we had thirteen, and got them ready, and also the rest of our arms, _&c._ But the longer we look’d upon the ship, the farther we perceived her go from us. When we came within twelve miles of the port, and hoped to make it, the wind changed, and the _Tramontana_ blew from the north vehemently; so we went on in our right course to the islands _Calderon_ and _Christiana_, so that on monday we passed the furthest point of _Creet_, call’d _Caput Salomonis_, where we saw on the hight another island, situated sixty _Italian_ miles from _Rhodus_, call’d _Scarpanthos_, and also _Carpathos_, where night befel us. But when we expected to go forwards with this wind, we lost it, and it changed into _Græco_ again, contrary to us, and so we could not go on farther, but were forced to cross up and down and to weather the point. On Monday we saw a ship that came directly down upon us, wherefore we went to meet her, and put our flag at the top of our main-mast. But when we came nearer we knew her to be a _Marsilian_, called _Santa Maria de Lacura Bursa_, they did send out one of their boats to tell us, that they came seven weeks agone from _Tripoli_, and that they wanted biscuits very much, and therefore desired us to let them have some of ours, to which we willingly agreed, and let them have what they would, and so they were very well pleased. While this was done, a good wind arose again, serving us both, called _Tramontana_, so that we could go forwards and they homewards, and so we parted. Then our master ordered three guns to be discharged, which they answered with two, so we went on, and lost sight of one another in half an hour’s time.

Here is to be observed, that of the four cardinal, and four side winds, five were for us; for we could go on as well with the _Tramontana_ and the _Midi_, called north and south, as with the three other, called north-west, west, and south-west, and so we had three contrary ones, _Syrocco_, _Levantino_, and _Græco_, which were contrary to us in our going; during this wind we went on with such speed, that on the 24th of _September_ in the evening we saw the great island _Cyprus_, five hundred miles beyond _Candy_. But because we had steered too much on the right, we were forced to spend all that night and the next day before we could come to _Cyprus_. The same morning we saw the high mountain _Libanus_ in _Syria_, two hundred miles distant from us, and so at night we got into the harbour of _Salamine_: Here is made the best bay-salt that is in the world. Here we also discharged three guns, for joy of our safe arrival, and some of us landed, together with our master, to take in water, and to enquire after our friends and acquaintance. No sooner were we landed, but we met with two travelling _Turks_, with an _Italian_ that understood their language: They spake to us by their interpreter, and conducted us to their Colonel, who was encamped near the market-place of _Salamine_ upon a hill, where one might see a great way off into the sea. After an hour’s walk we came in sight of him, and saw about thirty tents, and amongst them his also, where we saw some curious tapestry spread, and him sitting in the midst, with a delicate white turbant, and a long red lined _Caban_.

He held in his hand a long iron, like a grater we use to grate bread withal, only it was a great deal smaller: The _Turkish_ persons of quality have generally such irons in their hand in the summer-time; which they put in between their back and cloaths to scrach their backs when they itch: About him sat some more gentlemen bended down, and others kept centinel without his tent, with guns and scymiters well provided. Amongst the rest there was one of a good presence covered with a Tyger’s skin, that held a great iron club in his hand. Upon his desire we went to him, with the usual reverences, according to their custom, bending our head and the whole body downwards, and laying the right hand upon our breasts: Our master also pulled off his shoes, went in, and sate down with the rest before him: But we two set ourselves down without upon two seats that were brought us. Then the Lord began to ask our master, by his interpreter, from whence we came, how long we had been a coming, what merchandizes we had brought, and whether we designed to make any sale there; which questions our master answered. Then he began to enquire after news: _viz._ whereabout the _Spanish Armada_ was at present, and how strong it was reputed; whether the King of _Spain_ had made any leagues with other princes; and how the King of _France_ did agree with his _Hugonots_; how strong the city of _Rochelle_ was, and whether the King took it by violence, or whether they submitted themselves voluntarily. After this conference had lasted for half an hour, he dismissed us with great civility, giving us leave to go about our affairs. So we went off with the usual ceremonies, and went the same evening into the market of _Salamine_, to enquire after our friends; but we found this market-town, and also all the neighbourhood so strangly spoiled, that there were but very few whole houses standing. But being that we found none of ours, nor having any business there, we returned to our ship. I found nothing by the way but a few _Caper-bushes_ with some _Paliurus_’s and _Kali_.

After our men had filled water enough out of the well by the harbour we went aboard the ship again, hoisted up our sail, and departed in the night. But in going thence for _Tripoli_ we had for the most part contrary winds, which hindred us so much, that we did not arrive there until the last day of _September_. Thanks, honour, and glory be to the Almighty God, that mercifully did protect us from all dangers and mischiefs, and brought us safely into this harbour.

CHAP. II.

_Of the famous city of ~Tripoli~, of it’s fruitful neighbourhood and great trade: And also of the splendid baths, and other magnificent buildings to be seen there. Their ways of making Rusma, Pot-ashes, Soap, ~&c.~_

Before _Tripoli_, near the sea-shore, we saw five castles like high towers, distant from one an other about a musquet-shot, where some Janisaries are kept in garrison, to cover the ships in the harbour (which is in some measure surrounded with rocks) and to defend that custom-house, and the several ware-houses (where you may see all sorts of goods brought from most parts of the world) from an hostile attempt or assault: but after the sun was set, and night began to approach, we made what haste we could to the town, which was an hour’s going distant from us. Some _Turks_ went with us no otherways armed but with good strong cudgels, which, I was told, they commonly carry to keep off the wolves called Jacals (whereof there are a great many in these countries that are used to run, seek, and pursue after their prey in the night). While we were a talking of them some came up pretty near us, but as soon as they saw us they turned and ran away. When we came to the gate of the town we found it shut up, wherefore one of our friends, that met us to make us welcome, called to some _Frenchmen_ that were in their inn, in their language called _Fondique_, which is near the gate, and reacheth quite to the wall of the town, and desired that one of them would take the pains to go to the _Sangiacho_, to desire him to let the gate be opened to let us in, which they were willing to do. But in the mean time that we staid before the gate, another that was an enemy to our friend ran also away, and bespoke some _Turks_ and _Moors_ to set upon us, which they were very willing to do, and came with all speed through another gate that is never shut, along the wall to us, fell unawares upon us, struck at us, and took hold of us, chiefly at our good friend, for whose sake all this was done; others drew their scymiters upon us, so that I thought we should have been all cut to pieces. While this was a doing the gate was opened, and some _Frenchmen_ and their Consul himself came to our assistance, and spoke to these fellows, earnestly exhorting them to desist, and to let the cause be decided by the _Sangiacho_ and _Cadi_, which at length they did. So we came after this unfriendly welcome in the crowd into their _Fondique_, where we remained all that night. The Consul was very much displeased at this, considering that such-like proceedings would be very troublesome to them, wherefore he made great complaints and enquiries, until at length he found out who was the author thereof.

The next morning we went to our friends houses in order to stay a while with them: In the mean time we walked sometimes about in our own cloaths to see the town, which is situated in the country of _Syria_, called _Phœnicia_, which reached along the sea-shore to _Berinthus_, _Sidon_, _Tyrus_, and _Acon_, as far as the mountain of _Carmelus_. The town _Tripoli_ is pretty large, full of people, and of good account, because of the great deposition of merchandizes that are brought thither daily both by sea and land: It is situated in a pleasant country, near the promontory of the high mountain _Libanus_, in a great plain toward the sea-shore, where you may see abundance of vineyards, and very fine gardens, enclosed with hedges for the most part, consisting chiefly of _Rhamnus_, _Paliurus_, _Oxyacantha_, _Phillyrea_, _Lycium_, _Balaustium_, _Rubus_, and little _Palm-trees_, that are but low, and so sprout and spread themselves. In these gardens, as we came in, we found all sorts of sallating and kitchen-herbs, as Endive, Lettice, Ruckoli, Asparagus, Seleri, whose tops are very good to be eaten with salt and pepper, but chiefly that sort that cometh from _Cyprus_, _Taragon_ by the inhabitants called _Tarchon_, Cabbages, Colliflowers, Turneps, Horseradishes, Carrots, of the greater sort of Fennel, Onions, Garlick, _&c._ And also fruit, as Water-melons, Melons, Gourds, Citruls, Melongena, Sesamum (by the Natives called _Samsaim_, the seeds whereof are very much used to strow upon their bread) and many more; but chiefly the Colocasia, which is very common there, and are sold all the year long: I have also found them grow wild about rivulets, but could never see either flowers or seeds on them. I found also without the gardens many Dates and white Mulberry-trees, which exceed our Aspen and Nut-trees in height very much; and also Pomgranat-trees and Siliqua, which the _Grecians_ call _Xylocerata_, the _Arabs_, _Charnuby_. Also Olive and Almond-trees, and Sebesten, the fruit whereof are to be had at Apothecaries shops by the same name: _Poma Adami Matth._ But in great plenty there are Citrons, Lemons, and Oranges, which are as little eaten there as Pears or Crabs here. Between these gardens run several roads and pleasant walks, chiefly in the summer, for they afford many shady places and greens, where you are defended from the heat and the sun-beams: And if passing through you should have a mind to some of the fruits, you may either gather some that are fallen down, or else pull them from the nearest trees without danger, and take them home with you.

Without at the sea-shore, near the old town of _Tripoli_ (which together with many more, as _Antiochia_, _Laodicea_, &c. in the year of our Lord 1183, was so destroyed by an earthquake, that nothing but a few marks remain) there were more spring-gardens, which some of the Merchants still remember. But these were a few years agone by the violence of the seas so destroyed and so covered with sand, that now you see nothing there but a sandy ground, like unto the desarts of _Arabia_. Yet at _Tripoli_ they have no want of water, for several rivers flow down from the mountains, and run partly through the town, and partly through the gardens, so that they want no water neither in the gardens nor in their houses.

The new town in itself is of no strength, for it is so meanly walled in, that in several places in the night you may get in and out: But within there is a citadel situated upon an ascent near the water, where a garrison of a few Janisaries is kept. They have low houses ill built and flat at the top, as they are generally in the East, for they cover their houses with a flat roof or a floor, so that you may walk about as far as the houses go; and the neighbours walk over the tops of their houses to visit one another, and sometimes in the summer they sleep on the tops of them: And so it may very well be, that the four men (of which we read in St _Mark_, chap. ii. and St _Luke_, chap. v.) that carried the paralytic man, and could not come to _CHRIST_ because of the crowd of people, did carry him on the tops of the houses, and so let him down through the roof into the room where our _SAVIOUR_ was. They have not great doors, gates, or comings-in from the street as we have in our country, except some few Merchants houses, because they use neither waggons nor carts, wherefore they have only a little low door, sometimes not above three foot high, so that you cannot go into them without stooping. In a great many houses the comings-in are so dark and deep that one would think he were going into a cave or cellar, but when you are come through this entry into them, you see, in some, great court-yards wherein are cisterns to wash themselves in, in others large halls paved, and therein some ascents that go up two or three steps, paved delicately with marble, which they keep very clean, and adorned with rich tapestry, whereupon they sit, and this is covered with a large arch left open at one side, that the _Turks_ may, chiefly in the summer, sit underneath them very airy.

Their doors and houses are generally shut with wooden bolts, which are hollow within, and they unlock them with wooden keys about a span long, and about the thickness of a thumb, into this key they have driven, five, six, seven, eight or nine short nails, or strong Wires in such an order and distance that they just fit others that are within the lock, and so pull them forwards, or shut them backwards as they please.

The streets are but narrow, paved with broad stones, and have, chiefly those that are great roads, a channel in the middle of them about ten inches broad, so that a laden Camel may walk in them with ease, or that a man may step over them, which they say are made that the laden Camels or Asses, _&c._, that daily arrive in great caravans, may be obliged to walk in them one after another, in good order, that people may walk in the streets without being disturbed by them. And that these channels may be kept clean and dry, they have in some places some hidden drains covered with broad stones, that as well the rain-water as that of the wells may run away through them.

They cannot brag of any fine buildings, save only the _Mosques_ or temples, into which no _Christian_ must come, except he hath a mind to be circumcized, and so turn a _Mammeluk_ or _Renegado_: And also some great houses by the natives called _Champ_ or _Carvatscharas_, (_Caravanseries_) wherein are a great many shops or ware-houses, and chambers, by one another, as is in stately cloisters, in the middle thereof there is a great court-yard, where the strange Merchants (that daily bring their merchandizes in great caravans) do inn, considering that the _Turks_ keep no other inns.

The inns commonly belong to the _Grand Seignior_, or his _Basha_, which they build in several towns to get themselves a yearly revenue, as the _Venetians_ do in _Venice_ out of the _German_ house.