Chapter VII: Front Matter (7)

The town _Ana_ is by the _Euphrates_ divided into two parts, or rather into two towns, whereof the one is not very big, and subject to the _Turk_, and is very well guarded with old walls, and so surrounded by the river, that you cannot go into it but by boats, but the other that lieth on this side belongeth to the King of _Arabia_, is very great, and very ill provided with walls and ditches, so that you may go in and out by night, as in all other towns belonging to him. This, and also the whole province, is called _Gimel_, and is fifteen days journey distant from _Aleppo_, and goeth down a great way the river, so that we had a good hour to go before we came to the house of our master, which was near the harbour, where our ship did lie. The houses are built with brick and stone walls, and very well done; and we could hardly see one on either side but what had a garden to it, planted with dates, lemon, citron and pomegranate trees, with delicate fruit in it. At the other side on left in _Mesopotamia_, I saw nothing but some summer houses standing about the hills. By the way before we came to _Ana_, I observed very well that some of our company (to whom I was by an outlandish man recommended) left me, and began to contrive with the master, who was born in that town, to accuse me by a second hand, that they might not be seen in it, as a spy before the magistrates, pretending that I observed all towns and places accurately, and had a mind to betray them at my opportunity; which they chiefly did to frighten me, and so to get the sooner some good booty out of me. In order whereunto, some of them went to the Sub-Bashaw, and obtained presently of him to send one of his servants with them, which came to me in the long street, having some iron chains and fetters in his hands, which he let hang down upon the ground, and led me along; so that I presently understood that they had an ill intention against me, which they intended to execute. So I went along with him to see what they would do with me; when they came to the harbour, they gave me leave to go into the ship, and to stay there until I heard more of them. So they soon agreed together, and told me, chiefly one of them that was on horseback in a long furr’d coat, that if I would be at liberty, I must pay to the Sub-Bashaw 500 ducats. When I was considering these things, and saw myself also quite left alone, and their demands so extraordinary unreasonable, and found myself in this great necessity and danger, it came into my mind, that there was another magistrate in the other town _Ana_, at the other side of the river, which was a _Turkish_ one, to whom I would make my complaint of their unjust and unreasonable imposition, to see whether I might not find help and assistance of them; wherefore I provided myself with my pass, and fitted myself so in cloaths that I might be able to swim, so that if they should assault me to take hold of me, I might soon make my escape over the river without any opposition or hindrance. At length, when they expected my answer, and the money, I told them my intention plainly and clearly, which put them into greater fright and fear than they had put me in before. Wherefore they gave over their unjust demands, and desired of the 500 ducats no more but a single one, which they were forced to give to the servant of the Sub-Bashaw for the pains he had taken.

CHAP. VI.

_Which way we travelled from ~Ana~ farther to old ~Babylon~, by some ancient towns called ~Hadidt~, ~Juppe~, ~Idt~, and saw more pleasant, fruitful and well cultivated fields on each side than before._

After the designed storm that should have befallen me was over, and I by the power of the almighty God delivered, as it hath pleased him to do with a great many more, which would be too long to relate all here, we immediately departed from thence on the 15th of _October_. A little below it we found a fruitful and well cultivated country, and some fine houses standing here and there so near together, that before we passed one we could see another, which had also their orchards and kitchen gardens, and round about them fine woods of date trees and many others, which I could not discern because it was too far off; so that we found a great alteration, and our wilderness, wherein chiefly at a distance from the river, we hardly saw a tree in a whole day, changed at the lower end of the town into a fertile soil: Wherefore our voyage was very pleasant to us, for we had also less danger to fear from the _Arabians_. But our master was very much troubled, because the river was often stopp’d up at the sides with great stones that made the river swell, for there was a great number of large and high water engines or wheels, therefore these stones were laid to lead the stream to them to make them work, for it often happened that two of them stood close together, which took up so much of the river, that we had hardly room to pass by them in the middle of the stream, wherefore he was forced to have great care, to find the right way where he might pass without danger. The reason why these water-wheels are so much in use is, because this river doth not over flow (as the river _Nilus_) to water the grounds, neither doth it rain enough here sufficiently to moisten the seeds and garden-plants, that they be not burnt by the great heat of the sun, wherefore they must look out for such means, as will supply this want. To do this they erect water-wheels (whereof three or four stand behind one another) in the river, which go night and day, and dip up water out of the river, which is emptied into peculiar canals, that are prepared on purpose, to water all the ground. But if the places lie not conveniently, or the shore be too high to erect such wheels, they make instead of them bridges and peculiar engines, that are turned by a couple of bullocks, to bring the water up, with great leathern buckets, which are wide at top and narrow at bottom. This land being so fruitful, we soon found, to our great pleasure, great quantities of delicate fruit, sold for a small matter of money, and among the rest chiefly _Indian_ musk-melons, that were very well tasted.

When we came farther we had generally even ground at both sides, and not a few fields, the most part whereof were sown with _Indian_ Millet, for they sow more of this than of wheat or barley, for the land is pretty deep, wherein the corn would not grow so well. This Millet was just fit to be cut down, and in some places they had it in already. It shoots up into a high stalk about six, seven, or eight cubits high, the leaves thereof are like unto the _Indian_ corn, or sugar-reeds, which I took it for at first, and that because the inhabitants did chaw it as well as the sugar-canes, because of the sweet and pleasant juice (which is more in the upper part of the cane, whereas that of the sugar-canes, is more in the lower) which they draw out of it, untill I saw at length their white hairy tops sprout out, which are large and not unlike to the _Italian_ Millet. These are full of whitish grains each of which sticks between two broad flying leaves, of the bigness of those of the _Orabus_, yet somewhat more compressed at the sides. Hereof they bake very well-tasted bread and cakes, and some of them are rowled very thin, and laid together like unto a letter, so that they are about four inches broad, six long, and two thick; they are of an ashen colour. The inhabitants call it still at this day by it’s ancient _Arabian_ name _Dora_, whereof _Rhasis_ maketh mention. He that will may read more of it in authors.

Our voyage went on very well; wherefore the Merchants began several pastimes, some did play at a play called the Eighteenth, and others played at Chess, in which two games they were very well versed; others spent their time in reading and singing. Among the rest there was a Merchant from _Balsara_, that sung out of his _Koran_ (which was put into rhymes in the common _Arabick_) several times with a loud and delicate voice; so that I took great delight in hearing him. Yet they were not so hot in their gaming or jesting, that they should therefore forget the hour of their prayers, chiefly their divines that were in orders, which used to call them out with a loud voice, at the usual hour, either in the ship, or without in the desarts, if they could have convenient time and opportunity. But among the _Persians_ I found a greater zeal and earnestness, than among the _Turks_ or _Moors_, all which nations have notwithstanding the same ceremonies in their prayers. For as they have chiefly five hours of praying, whereof three are in the day-time; _viz._ the first about noon, the second about three, and the third when the sun begins to set; the two others in the night, one in the morning an hour and half before the sun riseth, and the second after sun set when the firmament begins to look white and the stars to appear: So the _Persians_ would not be hindered, by the darkness of the night, danger of the place, inconveniency of the time, to go out, when the others were asleep, on the ground in the island where we were landed, and say their prayers with such an earnestness and devotion, as I have often seen it, that the tears run out of their eyes: I must also needs say that they keep closer and stricter to their laws than almost any other nation, which forbid them to drink wine, and command them to live in poverty, and to watch and pray continually.

The eighteenth day of _October_ we came early to _Hadidt_, a pretty large, yet anciently built, town, belonging to the King of _Arabia_, which is also divided into two towns by the river _Euphrates_, like unto _Ana_, whereof the greater part lieth on this side of the river. Here the master payed for his ship two _Sayet_ (one whereof is about three pence in our country) to the customers, and so set sail again, to try whether he could reach that night to _Juppe_. And he did oftner than ever before, speak to his men to pull on (chiefly where the river in it’s breadth and depth was almost like unto the sea) so that at night pretty late we arrived at _Juppe_, a pleasant and well built town belonging to the _Turks_, and it is also divided into two parts, whereof one lieth in the middle of the river on a high ground, at the top whereof is a fortress, so that the town is pretty well defended: The other (which is rather bigger) lieth on the left in _Mesopotamia_, wherein are many fine orchards belonging to the houses, full of high date-trees, _&c._ wherefore the Merchants spent half a day there to buy dates, almonds, and figs to carry with them into the inns; the same they did at _Idt_ another great town of the _Turks_, on the right-hand of the _Euphrates_ situate on a high ground, where we arrived on the 20th of _October_ at night in very good time, and gave them instead thereof soap-balls, knives, and paper, _&c._ After which goods they have often enquired of us; and we have given them sometimes some sheets of white paper, which they received with great joy, and returned us many thanks for them.

After our Merchants had sufficiently stored themselves with these goods, and our master had pay’d the duty for his two ships, he put off about noon on the 21st of _October_ and went away. About the evening we saw at this side of the river a mill, and also the next day another, whereby were several old walls, doors and arches, _&c._ whereby I conjecture that formerly there stood a town. These two mills, as I was informed, were two powder-mills that make gun-powder for the _Turkish_ Emperor, and send it to him in caravans, together with other merchandizes through the dominions of the King of _Arabia_, wherefore he must as well as other Merchants, pay duty (for that liberty) and toll or custom. The gun-powder is not made from salt-peter, as our is, but out of another juice, which they take from a tree that is reckon’d to be a kind of willow; known to the _Persians_ by the name of _Fer_, and to the _Arabians_ by _Garb_, as I have mentioned above. Besides this they take the small twigs of these trees together with the leaves, and burn them to powder, which they put into water to separate the salt from it, and so make gun-powder thereof, yet this is nothing near so strong as ours. _Pliny_ chiefly testifieth this in his 31st book and 10th chapter, where he saith that in former days they have made Niter of oak-trees, (which certainly he hath taken these to be, for they are pretty like oaks) but that it hath been given over long before now. Which is very probable, chiefly because the consumption thereof was not so great, before they found out guns, as it is now since they have been found out.

Further on the water-side, on the high banks, I saw an innumerable many coloquints grow and hang down, which at a distance I could not well know, until they called them by their ancient _Arabick_ name _Handbel_, whereby they still to this day are known to the inhabitants. After we had navigated a great way several days one after another, through even grounds, and in a good road, we arrived at length on the 24th day of _October_, at night, near to _Felugo_ or _Elugo_, a little village called so, and with it the whole province.

CHAP. VII.

_Of old ~Babylon~ the metropolis of ~Chaldee~, and it’s situation, and how it is still to this day, after it’s terrible desolation to be seen, with the tower or turret, and the old ruined walls, lying in the dust._

The village _Elugo_ lyeth on the place where formerly old _Babylon_, the metropolis of _Chaldee_, did stand; the harbour lyeth a quarter of a league off, whereinto those use to go, that intend to travel by land, to the famous trading city of _Bagdet_, (which is situated farther to the east on the river _Tygris_, at a day and a half’s distance). At this harbour is the place where the old town of _Babylon_ did stand, but at this time there is not a house to be seen, whereinto we could go with our goods and stay till our departure. We were also forced to unload our merchandises into an open place, as if we had been in the midst of the desarts, and to pay toll under the open sky, which belongeth to the _Turks_. This country is so dry and barren, that it cannot be tilled, and so bare, that I should have doubted very much, whether this potent and powerful city (which once was the most stately and famous one of the world, situated in the pleasant and fruitful country of _Sinar_) did stand there if I should not have known it by it’s situation, and several ancient and delicate antiquities that still are standing hereabouts in great desolation. First by the old bridge, which was laid over the _Euphrates_ (which also is called _Sud_ by the prophet _Baruch_ in his first chapter) whereof there are some pieces and arches still remaining, and to be seen at this very day a little above where we landed. These arches are built of burnt brick, and so strong, that it is admirable; and that so much the more, because all along the river as we came from _Bir_, where the river is a great deal smaller, we saw never a bridge, wherefore I say it is admirable which way they could build a bridge here, where the river is at least half a league broad, and very deep besides. Near the bridge are several heaps of _Babylonian_ pitch, to pitch ships withal, which is in some places grown so hard, that you may walk over it, but in others that which hath been lately brought thither is so soft, that you may see every step you make in it. Something farther; just before the village _Elugo_, is the hill whereon the castle did stand in a plain, whereon you may still see some ruins of the fortification, which is quite demolished and uninhabited: Behind it pretty near to it, did stand the tower of _Babylon_, which the children of _Noah_ (who first inhabited these countries after the deluge) began to build up unto heaven; this we see still, and it is half a league in diameter, but it is so mightily ruined, and low, and so full of vermin that hath bored holes through it, that one may not come near it within half a mile, but only in two months in the winter, when they come not out of their holes. Among these Insects, there are chiefly some, in the _Persian_ language called _Eglo_ by the inhabitants, that are very poisonous; they are (as others told me) bigger than our lizards, and have[2] three heads, and on their back several spots of several colours, which have not only taken possession of the tower, but also of the castle (which is not very high) and the spring-well, that is just underneath it, so that they cannot live upon the hill, nor dare not drink of the water (which is wholesome for the lambs.) _This is Romance._

From this tower, at two leagues distance eastward, lieth the strong town _Traxt_, which was formerly call’d _Apamia_, mention’d by _Pliny_ in book VI. chap. 26, 27, between the _Tygris_ and _Euphrates_, those two great rivers of Paradise, whereof is made mention in the second chapter of _Genesis_; which two rivers not far below it meet together, and are there united. The town _Traxt_ is surrounded with ditches, and very well defended by two strong citadels, that lie on each side thereof, so that it is as it were, a key and doorway into the kingdom of _Persia_, to which it doth also belong, as others not far from thence, _viz._ _Orthox_, _Laigen_, which lie on the road towards _Media_; and also _Goa_, which lieth a league and an half at the other side of the _Tygris_, and _Axt_, two leagues farther still, in the way to _Persia_.

The next day, being the 25th of _October_, we spent in bespeaking of camels and asses to load our goods upon, and after we were quite ready, we broke up the day following early in the morning with the whole caravan, to travel to _Bagdat_. In the beginning the ways were very rough, by the stones and ruins that lie still from thence dispersed. But after we were passed the castle and also the town of _Daniel_, the dry desarts began again, where nothing was to be seen but thorns, neither men nor beasts, neither caves nor tents, so that a man that knoweth the ways never so well, hath enough to do to find them through it, which I did often observe in our guide or Caliphi, who did several times, because there was neither way nor mark neither of men nor beasts to be found, very much doubt which way to turn himself, and so he did more than once turn sometimes toward one, than towards the other side the whole caravan. By the way we saw in the plain many large, ancient, high, and stately buildings, arches, and turrets standing in the sand, which is very fine, and lieth close together, as you find it in the valleys, here and there, whereof many were decay’d and lay in ruins; some to look upon were pretty entire, very strong, adorn’d with artificial works, so that they were very well worth being more narrowly look’d into. Thus they stand solitary and desolated, save only the steeple of _Daniel_, which is intire, built of black stones, and is inhabited still unto this day; this is in height and building something like unto our steeple of the Holy Cross church, or of St _Maurice_ in _Augsburg_; on which as it stands by itself, you may see all the ruins of the old _Babylonian_ tower, the castle-hill, together with the stately buildings, and the whole situation of the old town very exactly.

After we had travell’d for twelve hours through desolate places, very hard, so that our camels and asses began to be tired under their heavy burdens, we rested and lodged ourselves near to an ascent, we and our beasts, to refresh ourselves, and so to stay there till night, and to break up again in the middle thereof, that we might come to _Bagdat_ before sun-rising. The mean while, when we were lodged there, I consider’d and view’d this ascent, and found that there was two behind one another, distinguish’d by a ditch, and extending themselves like unto two parallel walls a great way about, and that they were open in some places, where one might go through like gates; wherefore I believe that they were the walls of the old town, whereof _Pliny_ says that they were two hundred foot high, and fifty broad, that went about there, and that the places where they were open, have been anciently the gates of that town, whereof there were a hundred iron ones; and this the rather, because I saw in some places under the sand, wherewith the two ascents were almost cover’d, the old wall plainly appear. So we found ourselves to be just lodged without the walls of that formerly so famous kingly city, which now with it’s magnificent and glorious buildings, is quite desolated and lieth in the dust, so that every one that passeth through it, in regard of them, hath great reason to admire with astonishment, when he considers, that this city, which hath been so glorious an one, and in which the greatest monarchs and kings that ever were (_Nimrod_, _Belus_, and after him King _Merodach_ and his posterity to _Balthasar_ the last) have had their seats and habitations, is now reduced to such a desolation and wilderness, that the very shepherds cannot abide to fix their tents there to inhabit it. So that here is a most terrible example to all impious and haughty tyrants, shewn in _Babylon_, which may be sure, that if they do not give over in time, and leave their tyranny, ceasing to persecute the innocent with war, sword, prison, and all other cruel and inhuman plagues, as these did the people of God the _Israelites_, that God the Almighty will also come upon them, and for their transgressions punish them in his anger, for God is a jealous God, that at long run, will not endure the pride of tyrants, nor leave unpunish’d the potentates that afflict his people; wherefore be sure, he will also in them verify the prophecies which he had utter’d by the Prophet _Isaiah_, in his thirteenth chapter, and _Jeremiah_ in the fifty first, against those insolent and haughty _Babylonians_.

As I passed by, I found some thorns growing in the sand, _viz._ the Acacia, call’d _Agul_, whereon, chiefly in _Persia_, the Manna falls, whereof I have made mention before: Above all I found in great plenty some strange kinds of Cali of _Serapio_, of Coloquints. When evening fell in, and the night did approach, our mockeries that drove the asses, made themselves ready again for our journey; who kept every thing together, in good order, and were so quick in loading and unloading, that they were ready in less than a quarter of an hour. By the way I saw again several antiquities, but the night falling in I lost them; so we went on a-pace in darkness, so that we did arrive at _Bagdat_, by some call’d _Baldac_, two hours before day. In the morning, which was the twenty seventh of _October_, I and one of my comrades took our lodging at an eminent Merchant’s house, that belonged to _Aleppo_, and was lately come from the _Indies_; he received us kindly, and very readily, and kept us for four days, when we took a shop in the great camp of the _Turkish_ Bashaw, in the other town, on the other side of the _Tygris_, which we went into.

CHAP. VIII.

_Of the famous city of ~Bagdat~, called ~Baldac~; of it’s situation, strange plants, great traffic, and Merchants of several nations that live there, together with several other things I saw and did learn at my departing._

The town _Bagdat_, belonging to the _Turkish_ Emperor, is situated on the most easterly part of his dominions, on the rapid river _Tygris_, and the confines of _Persia_, in a large plain, almost like unto _Basiel_ on the _Rhine_, it is divided into two parts, which are rather bigger than _Basiel_, but nothing near so pleasant, nor so well built, for the streets thereof are pretty narrow, and many houses so miserably built that some of them are down to the first story, and others lie quite in ruins. The case is the same with the churches, which for age look black, and are so much decay’d, that you shall hardly find a whole one; whereon are still several old _Arabian_, or rather _Chaldean_ inscriptions to be seen, cut out in stone, by the means whereof many antiquities of the town might have been truly explain’d, but I could not only not read them, but could get no body that could interpret them to me. These are some buildings that are worth seeing, as the camp of the _Turkish_ Bashaw, and the great Batzar or Exchange beyond the river in the other town, and the Baths which are not to be compared with those of _Aleppo_ and _Tripoli_, for they are at the bottom and on the walls done over with pitch, which maketh them so black and dark, that even in the day time, you have but little light. There being two towns, one of them which lieth on this side is quite open, so that you may go in and out by night without any molestation; wherefore it should rather be call’d a village great than a town; but the other that lieth towards _Persia_ on the confines of _Assyria_, is very well fortifieth with walls and ditches, chiefly towards the _Tygris_, where there are also some towers, two whereof are within by the gates that lead towards the water side, to guard them, and between them are the old high walls of the town, whereon on the top are stately writings, with golden letters, each whereof is about a foot long, to be seen; the true meaning thereof I would fain have learned, but for want of understanding and interpreters, I could not obtain it, but was forced to go without it. Near unto it there is a bridge made of boats, that reacheth over the _Tygris_ into the other town, which in that place is about as broad as the _Rhine_ is at _Strasburg_, and because of it’s rapid stream so dark and dull, that it is a dismal sight to look upon it, and may easily turn a man’s head and make him giddy. This river runneth not much below the town into the _Euphrates_, and so they run mixt together into the _Persian_ gulf, by the town _Balsara_, which is six days journey distance from thence eastwards. These two towns as is said, at the river _Tygris_, were many years agone built out of the ruinated city of _Babylon_, whereof the one on the other side of the river is accounted to be the town of _Seleucia_ of _Babylon_, and that on this side, which is more like unto an open village, is believed to be the town _Ctesiphonta_. _Strabo_, in book XV, doth testify this, when he writes thus of them: That _Babylon_ hath formerly been the metropolis of _Assyria_, and that after it’s devastation, the town of _Seleucia_, situated upon the _Tygris_, near which was a great village, wherein the king of the _Parthians_ did keep his residence for the winter. _Pliny_ maketh also mention thereof in his sixth book, and in the twenty sixth and twenty seventh chapter, _viz._ That the two towns of _Seleucia_ of _Babylon_, and _Ctesiphonta_, were built out of the ruins of the old city, and that the river _Tygris_ runs between them. In the town _Seleucia_, stands in a large place, the castle, which is without guarded neither with walls nor ditches, nor is quite finish’d within. Before it lie some pieces of ordnance in the road, which are so daubed with dirt, that they are almost quite covered. In it dwelleth the _Turkish_ Bashaw, who, when he understood that two strangers were come into his camp, sent for us, and had us before him by his men; along with us went freely an _Armenian_, whom we had known formerly at _Aleppo_, to assist us, and to be our interpreter, to give the Bashaw a good and sufficient account of us.

When we came into the room of the Bashaw, which was but very ordinary, yet spread with delicate tapestry and well adorned, and appeared with accustom’d reverences, he ask’d us, sitting in his costly yellow colour’d long gown, by one of his servants, in _French_, which he did not understand very well, from what places we came, what merchandizes we had brought with us, and whither we intended to go. After we had punctually answered him to each question, yet he was not satisfy’d, but bid us to withdraw, and stay until we heard his answer. We understood his meaning very well, that it was only to scrue a present out of us, yet we would not understand it, but shew’d him our pass, subscrib’d both by the Bashaw and the Cadi of _Aleppo_, to try whether that would give him content. So he took it and read it over, and look’d very diligently upon their seals, as they use to seal, after they had dipp’d it first into ink, so that all but the letter is black. When he found them right, and did not know any more to say to us, he let us go, then we made him his reverence again, and so we went backwards out of his lodgings, for if you turn your back to any one, altho’ it be a far meaner person, they take it as a great uncivility, rudeness, and disparagement. This Bashaw keeps a great garrison in the town of _Bagdat_, because it lieth on the confines of _Susiana_, _Media_, &c. which are provinces belonging to the King of _Persia_, and the Grand Signior hath nothing more towards the east of it to command. His greatest dominions are the wildernesses of the desart of _Arabia_, whereof the _Turk_ hath one part, but the other, and the biggest, belongs to the King of _Arabia_. After the Bashaw had given us leave to go, we went to our lodgings again, and bought by the way in the Batzar some provision to eat, and to boil for supper, for in these countries are no inns to be found, whereinto one may go, and find a dinner ready prepared for chance-customers, as in our country is done, except one would go into a cook’s shop, whereof there are a great many in the Batzars; but every one boileth for himself what he hath a mind to, without doors, before his lodgings, where there is a chimney for that purpose; so that in the morning, and at night when it is time to eat, you see every where in the allies of the camp several fires. When we went to eat we were forced, because in these chambers is neither table, nor stools, nor bench, to sit down on the ground, and also lie upon it all night, so that our cloaks were very useful to us, to serve us instead of a bed, chiefly in the winter, to keep us warm; yet the winter is not very severe in those countries, which you may conclude, for that our March-flowers, Narcissus’s, Hyacinths, Violets, _&c._ were here full in flowers in the month of _December_; and that the farmers went to plough at that time; wherefore I judge that their winter is like unto our spring. When we lived at _Bagdat_, I found by our catering, that the scarcity was still very considerable, and it would have been more, and have increased, if the towns that lie above it on the _Euphrates_ and _Tygris_, and chiefly _Mossel_, which formerly went by the name of _Nineveh_, had not sent them great supplies, as did also those of _Carahemit_, _&c._ which supply they have also almost always at any other time occasion for, for their cultivated grounds are chiefly in _Mesopotamia_, where they have almost none at all, so that there groweth not enough to maintain themselves; wherefore the two rivers are very necessary to them, not only to provide them with victuals, as corn, wine, fruit, _&c._ but also to bring to them all sorts of merchandizes, whereof many ship-loads are brought in daily. So that in this town there is a great deposition of merchandizes, by reason of it’s commodious situation, which are brought thither by sea as well as by land from several parts, chiefly from _Natolia_, _Syria_, _Armenia_, _Constantinople_, _Aleppo_, _Damascus_, &c. to carry them farther into the _Indies_, _Persia_, &c. So it happened that during the time I was there, on the second day of _December_, in 1574 there arrived twenty five ships with spice and other precious drugs here, which came over sea from the _Indies_, by the way of _Ormutz_ to _Balsara_, a town belonging to the Grand _Turk_, situated on the frontiers, the farthest that he hath south-eastwards, within six days journey from hence, where they load their goods into small vessels, and so bring them to _Bagdat_, which journey, as some say, taketh them up forty days. Seeing that the passage both by water and land, belongeth both to the King of _Arabia_ and Sophi of _Persia_, which also have their towns and forts on their confines, which might easily be stopt up by them, yet that notwithstanding all this they may keep good correspondence with one another, they keep pigeons, chiefly at _Balsara_, which in case of necessity might soon be sent back again with letters to _Bagdat_. When loaden ships arrive at _Bagdat_, the Merchant, chiefly those that bring spice, to carry through the desarts into _Turky_, have their peculiar places in the open fields without the town _Ctesiphon_, where each of them fixeth his tents, to put his spices underneath in sacks, to keep them there safe, until they have a mind to break up in whole caravans; so that at a distance one would rather believe that Soldiers were lodged in them, than Merchants; and rather look for arms than marchandizes: And so I thought myself before I came so near that I could smell them.

Some of these Merchants that came with the same ships, came directly to our camp, and among the rest a Jeweller, who brought with him several precious stones, _viz._ Diamonds, Chalcedonies, which make incomparable hafts to daggers, Rubies, Topazes, Saphires, _&c._ the two first whereof he had procured in _Camboya_, and most of the rest in the island of _Zeylan_, whereof he shew’d us several very fine ones. The Merchants bring these along with them in great caravans, and keep them very close and private, that they may not be found out, at the custom-houses and be taken away from them which the Bashaws do constantly endeavour with all their might and power. For the _Turks_ do not love that precious stones should cost them money, for they are extraordinarily covetous, wherefore you find but a few among them, but if they can have them without cost, after the aforesaid manner they love them dearly, and keep them in great esteem. In the room of them other stones are sent into the _Indies_ again, Corals, Emeralds (which are bought best in _Egypt_) Saffron, Chermes-berries, and several sorts of fruit, as Cibebs, Dates, (which are so pliable and soft that you may pack them together in great lumps as they do Tamarinds) Figs, Almonds, and many others which I cannot now remember, and also several sorts of silks and _Turkish_ handkerchiefs: But above all, fine horses, whereof they send abundance into the _Indies_ by the way of _Persia_, but more by the way of _Ormutz_, wherefore the King of _Portugal_ received yearly a good sum of money for custom, _viz._ forty ducats for each, which the Merchants pay very freely, because that those that import horses (as I am informed) pay but half duty for their other goods at the custom-houses, and sell them besides with good profit. Some of these horses are also sent (because of their beauty and goodness) into _Syria_, _Natolia_, and to us into _Europe_, where they are sold or presented to Princes, and other great persons of quality. They feed their horses in these countries chiefly with barly and straw, so as it is broke by their threshing waggons, which they hang about their heads in sacks, as they do also about asses, rather than give it them in mangers as we do. For want of straw they sometimes litter them with a fine loose earth, which they afterwards throw by in heaps to make it clean again to serve another time. When, among other Merchants, Christians arrive from our countries at _Ormutz_, which happen’d very seldom, all those of them that have been any ways afflicted by the _Turks_, _Arabians_, or _Jews_, must appear before some certain officers of the King of _Portugal_, appointed for that purpose, and make their complaints to them, of what hath happen’d to them, or what damage they have received; and in case they should omit any thing, they are themselves severely punish’d. If then it appeareth, that one of them hath been cheated of his money, immediately some Merchants of the same nation although innocent, and knowing nothing of it, are flung into prison, where they must remain until they have made satisfaction to the utmost farthing, and are besides severely punish’d, for an example to others that they may take warning. But if a Christian should be murdered, and they come to know of it, then three or four of them, more or less, according to the manner of fact, must suffer and lose their lives for every Christians. From thence it cometh, when Merchants of many nations are going into a ship, in order to go to the _Indies_, by the way of _Ormutz_, where they must land upon penalty of confiscation of all their goods, that when first they put off, they look strangely upon one another, and take great notice of, or mind one another much, and say very little or nothing, not making themselves known, fearing that something may be had against them; and this endureth so long, until they are gone half the way, then they begin to be acquainted. Farther I understood, that the King of _Portugal_’s governor in the _Indies_ hath already, (to make himself strong and the more able for a war) made several of the chiefest and powerfullest _Indians_ knights or noblemen, to the number of 5000; and hath sent many Jesuits to reform these countries, to propagate their religion and to institute there the _Spanish_ inquisition. The _Indians_ are lank in body, brown in their colour, well shaped, and of a very good understanding; wherefore persons of quality, and Merchants love to buy them, and chuse them for their servants, being in their business very faithful, diligent and careful, as I have known many of them. These and many more nations, as _Turks_, _Moors_, _Armenians_, _Curters_, _Medians_, &c. which every one of them have their peculiar language, are at _Bagdat_ in great numbers, but chiefly the _Persians_; so when I was there, there arrived a caravan of three hundred, with camels and horses, _&c._ with an intention to go to _Mecca_, to give _Mahomet_ a visit, which they think, after _Hali_ and _Omar_, who were his companions and did live in that city, to be a very great man. These _Persians_ have a peculiar language, so much differing, that neither _Turks_ nor _Arabians_, nor other _Oriental_ nations can understand them, and so they are forced to make them understand their meaning by signs or an interpreter, as well as I and other strangers. They also have their peculiar characters. They sit well on horse-back, and have on long and white drawers, which serve them also for boots, and are very well furnish’d with scymeters, bows and darts: Instead of spurs, they have, as it is the fashion in those parts, pointed irons, which are about an inch and a half long, and are sowed to the hind part of their shoes. They are also call’d _Red Turks_, which I believe is, because they have behind on their turbants, red marks, as cotton ribbands, _&c._ with red brims, whereby they are sooner discerned from other nations. They may also be distinguish’d by their grey woollen coats, which have commonly three pleats behind, and come hardly down to their knees. They are a strong and valiant people, of a noble countenance and mind, very civil, and in their dealings upright. They are very wary in their undertakings, which you may see by this, that before they conclude a bargain, they take up more time to consider than others do two or three, which I have several times observed. Among other merchandizes they have delicate tapestry of several colours of cotton-work, in which they are great artists, and well skill’d, but as for others, as gold and silver working, _&c._ they understand little, and a great deal less of gilding, wherefore they take any thing that is glossy for gold. They love the Christians that are artists and ingenious in these sorts of works, and shew them all civilities. But as for the _Turks_, because great and bloody wars arise often between them, they hate them very much, and call them Heretics; 1. Because they will not esteem nor receive _Hali_ and _Omar_, which they denominate _Caliphi_, as the greatest and highest Prophets or Legates of God, that have, after _Mahomet_, given more certain and better laws. Wherefore they esteem them a great deal higher; nay, worship them like Gods. 2. Because that they as circumcised men, esteem their women to be unclean, and reckon them to be members that are not to be saved, and therefore exclude them out of their churches, so that they may not appear there publickly, which by the _Persians_, according to their laws and ordinances, after they have spoke some words after them, are received as bless’d ones, and admitted to come to their churches. From whence arise between these two nations great quarrels and differences sometimes, but yet they do not fall upon one another, nor make incursions in time of peace, so violently on the frontiers, as they do in _Hungary_; probably that one may (because negotiation goeth farther into _Persia_, and bringeth in great custom to the Grand Signior) trade the safer into these parts. It is cheap and very good travelling through these countries into the _Indies_, and the customs and duties are very easy.

Farther I understood from others, that here and there in _Persia_ live several Christians, and that most of them are of the perswasion of _Prester-John_, whom they call _Amma_; and which way they are brought to it, I am thus informed, that formerly about twelve years agone, it did happen that the King of _Persia_ made a league with _Prester-John_ against the _Turks_, which came then very hard upon him, and gave him his hands so full, that he was forced to seek for help by strangers. Now when _Prester-John_ thought it very inconvenient for him to make a league with a King that was not of his religion, he sent him a message again, that he could make no league with him, except the chiefest of the articles were, that he and his subjects would receive his religion, then he would not only do him all friendship that in him lay, but also assist him with all his might and power, which at length was agreed upon. Whereupon he did send one of his patriarchs and some of his priests, which in process of time had this effect, that now even at this day, there are above twenty towns in _Persia_ where the most of the inhabitants are addicted to the religion of _Prester-John_. They have also as I was told, several books of the holy scripture, and chiefly among the rest, some of the epistles of St _Thomas_, which they call _Ærtisch_. And besides that, their patriarch hath brought it to that pass, that they are no more so zealous in their superstitions; and are of opinion that circumcision is not necessary, and that so much the rather, because their enemies the _Turks_ and _Jews_ have it. And for the same reason they do not abhor the forbidden beasts, but eat pork, _&c._ nor refuse to drink wine, and that as before said, because their adversaries are forbid it by their law. So that the Christian faith doth in _Persia_ encrease daily more and more, and they begin to be christened with fire, according to their fashion, and in the name of God the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, whom they notwithstanding, according to their opinion, rather believe to be a creature, than the Third Person of the Trinity, and that he doth only proceed from the Father and not from the Son. But that those that are Christians may be discerned, they wear a blue cross on the inside of their left leg a little above the knee. They also administer the sacrament of the holy supper or communion, and give it as well to the young as to the old ones in both kinds; but before they go to it, they must have their feet washed, wherefore there are little rivulets led through the churches, where they sit down, and some of the chiefest of the town come to them and wash their feet, and when that is done, they give unto one another a kiss of love; then they read the words of Christ’s institution, and so go to receive it; they do not come to confession before: And they endure no images in their churches, but instead of them, they make use of harps, pipes and other instruments, wherewith they make music, but chiefly at the King’s court, at _Smarcand_ (where his best Musicians are) which town, as they say, was built by _Sem_ the son of _Noah_, and called after his name. What else is to be said concerning the points of their religion, shall be hereafter mentioned in the chapter of the _Abissines_.

Farther I was informed at my return, that after the decease of _Gamach_ the King of _Persia_; that had three sons and one daughter (who was soon married to one of the chiefest of the council at court) whereof the eldest called _Alschi_ was beheaded, because he did endeavour to take away his father’s crown, the other two are still in being; the youngest of them _Balthasar_ liveth in _Parsid_ a peculiar province and town in _Persia_, which lieth on the borders of the _Indies_; and the middlemost, called _Ismael_, was lately, after his father’s decease, elected King, almost at the same time when the now reigning _Turkish_ Emperor _Amurathes_ came to the crown. This is still young, and of a tall and slim body, but very manly, and full of courage, and well skill’d in all warlike exercises, so that he dare before any of his courtiers ride wild and unbroken horse, by them called _Æcaik_, which are not easily mastered. They are brought to him a great way off out of the eastern parts; they are as I am informed, of an ashen colour, only some have white legs; in these and other exercises he hath shown his manliness from his infancy. But when he did encrease in age and in strength, the anger and displeasure he bore against the _Turks_ did increase also, and to that degree, that he resolved, during his father’s life, to be revenged of them for the wrong they had done to his ancestors. Wherefore a little while agone, he brought together a great many men in the frontier places to surprize the town of _Bagdet_ unawares, being one of the chiefest that formerly had belonged to his ancestors, together with the whole country, wherein the new Kings of _Persia_ when they first come to the government are used to be crowned. When he was thus prepared for the onsent, and nothing was wanting, some traitors ran away from his troops and acquainted the Bashaw of _Bagdet_ with his design, so the Bashaw was forced to arm himself with all speed as well as he could, that he might be able to oppose him in his designs. But when the King’s son would have put his intention into execution, the Bashaw fell upon him unawares with such a number and strength, that he could not only attempt nothing, but was beaten, and he himself taken prisoner. Besides this, the Grand _Turk_ would have had him to be beheaded, if his father had not with great earnestness taken his part, and given him for his ransom the town _Orbs_ in _Mesopotamia_. After this, the old King had enough to do to keep his son in safe custody, that he might not begin new alarms and wars against the _Turks_.

Before I began my voyage in _March_, in the year 74; certain news came to _Aleppo_ that 25000 _Turks_ were killed on the confines of _Persia_ and _Arabia_; but in what place this battle was fought, and which way it was done I could not learn (for if they suffer any damage, they always keep it very close and secret) nor any ways here: Wherefore the _Turks_ at that time were a great deal harder towards the Christians, so that many suffered for their misfortunes sake: But if they had obtained the victory, as well as not, they would not have been so silent, but would have spread it abroad, and have related it to others that did not ask them, with high and big words. So great an opinion have the _Turks_ of themselves, that they really believe there is no other nation that can conquer the world so as they, although they are not be compared with the _Persians_, neither for strength, manliness, nor shape; so therefore they could effect but very little against others, if it were not for their great number, wherewith they over power them. And to speak only of the inhabitants of this town, there are so many sick and lame people in it, that you would admire to see so many lame and limping ones in the streets; yet the King of _Persia_ cannot hold out the war at length, nor keep a war at a great distance, for his revenue is not so great as to make sufficient provision for his officers and soldiers, _&c._ to pay them as well in time of peace as of war: For his subjects are freed from all taxes and impositions, according to their ancient privileges and customs. They never arm themselves for a defence, but when they are called together by their King, to defend and protect their country, house or land, wife and children, against the assault of an enemy.