Chapter XV: Front Matter (15)

Just without _Bethlehem_, at the other side of the path, towards the east, for formerly the town reached so far, they shew still the stable under a large rock, wherein _Jesus Christ_, the promised _Messias_, God and Man, was born of the immaculate Virgin _Mary_, and laid in a manger. Of his coming, and the place where he should be born, the holy prophet _Micah_ long before prophesied in his fifth chapter, and second verse, saying: ‘But thou _Bethlehem Ephrata_, though thou be little among the thousands of _Juda_, yet out of thee shall he come forth unto me, that is to be ruler in _Israel_; whose goings forth have been from of old, from everlasting.’ On that place hath _Helena_, mother of _Constantine_ the Great, also build a stately church; but since it is so ruined and demolished, that hardly half of it is left, as one may see by the old walls of the foundation, and other places and arches that are still left without; yet that part that still remaineth standing, is very large, covered with lead at top, and is so glorious a building, that one shall hardly find a better any where. For within it is paved with white marble all over, and upheld with a great many large and high marble pillars, each whereof is about nine spans in diameter; I told about fifty of them, they stand without before the chancel (and underneath them is the place of the holy and joyful birth of our Lord _Jesus Christ_) in four rows one behind the other, and so give a glorious ornament to the whole church. There are also to be seen on the arches and the walls about, some fine histories taken out of the Old Testament, made in _Mosaick_ work, laid in with colours very artificially; and are still so plain to be seen and discerned, as if they were made but the other day. The cave wherein _Christ_ was born, hath without, on each side of the chancel, underneath which is a peculiar way into it, one against the other, the doors thereof are commonly locked up, because behind the church, there is still another, through which they generally go down into it; therein is below at the right hand still another less one, going down two steps more, which is the true stable, wherein our Saviour _Jesus Christ_ did lie in the manger between the ox and ass; so there is still in the same place made a marble one very well wrought. Without before it we put off our shoes, and went in with the father Guardian into the holy place. Where, when I considered the joyful birth of our Lord _Jesus Christ_; where he, as the true long before promised _Messias_ and Saviour was born; I was affected, as if I saw the child wrapt up in swadling cloaths, and lying in the manger, disguised in our mortal flesh and blood, yet without sin, that we as children of wrath and eternal damnation, might be received again by God his Heavenly Father, as his children unto everlasting salvation; that did humble himself so low, as to be born in a dark stable in the miserablest poverty, that he might bring us out from the filth and mire of sin wherein we lay, into the parlour of his Heavenly Father. ‘Seeing then, my dear Lord _Jesus Christ_, that thou art come to us into the world, as the true light, to make of us, that were children of darkness and eternal damnation, children of light and eternal salvation and felicity; I return unto thee, O Lord, for these thy unspeakable benefits, eternal praises, and seeing that thou hast assumed our flesh and blood, and hast also caused these thy merits and benefits to be by thy holy angels proffered to me; therefore I pray thee let me come to thee with the poor shepherds, and see thy saving incarnation, give me and us all thy grace and holy spirit, that we may comfort our selves with this thy blessed birth, against our sinful and impure one, constantly and without cessation, that we may rejoice in it, in good and bad times, in tribulations and adversities, in prosperous success and ill fortune, in the time of this temporal life, heartily, until at length we shall, in the life to come, see thee with all the elected ones, face to face, to all eternity.’ Amen.

This cave is underneath about the walls, lined with long tables of grey marble, adorned with blue, artificially laid in; the rock that cometh out over the stable only excepted. Just by the furthermost entry of the fine chapel there are others, in one whereof St _Jerom_ did live, and did translate the Bible out of the _Hebrew_ and _Chaldean_ languages into the _Latin_. In another near it, lieth buried the noble pious _Roman_ lady _Paula_, with her daughter _Eustachia_. Who, after the decease of her husband, went thither to St _Jerom_, where she led all the rest of her days in Christian piety, until at length she died in the Lord. From thence we came up again into the church, wherein without close to the chancel each side, were to be seen two altars, covered with good large marble; on one thereof on the left, the father Guardian did shew me the effigies of the old _Simeon_, holding the child _Jesus_ in his arms, and in the manger still another, with this admonition. ‘That from hence we may see, conclude and learn, that it is not culpable at all to have images, seeing that nature itself alloweth so much unto stones, that images may grow in them. Wherefore they are not only not to be forbidden, but rather to be honoured.’ What every Christian ought to think of this, being quite contrary to the holy Scripture, every child that hath but begun to learn the Catechism, can easily and sufficiently decide. The _Franciscan_ monks have near the church, a large and pleasant habitation, and also by it great gardens (rich of fine plants and good fruits) defended round about with high walls, against the incursions of the _Arabians_, which they make daily. _Bethlehem_ lieth high, surrounded by the hills of _Judæa_, as you may see by the words of _Jeremiah_, chap. xxxi. verse 15. where he doth prophecy the murdering of the children, which cruel tyranny _Herod Ascalonit_ did a great while after in Christ’s time execute, the words are these: ‘Thus saith the Lord, a voice was heard in _Ramah_, lamentation and bitter weeping: _Rachel_ weeping for her children, refused to be comforted for her children because they were not.’ In this monastery, because it lieth at the top of the path, you see with pleasure, as well as on mount _Olivet_, the confines of _Jericho_, and the Dead Sea, and the mountains of _Arabia_, but chiefly within the space of a league and a half towards the south, a great and high hill, which extends itself much farther than the rest; whereupon, in former years, the strong and mighty castle of _Theckoa_ was built, whereof the holy Prophet _Jeremias_ maketh mention in his sixth chapter, and also _Amos_ (who did prophecy there) in his first chapter. The Christians had this in possession a great while, and did keep it against the Infidels and Heathens for above thirty years after _Jerusalem_ and the Holy Land were taken; for they had corn, wine, water, and other necessaries, abundantly of their own growing, so that they might have kept it longer, if a great contagious distemper had not got among them, which did increase to that degree, that they were forced to leave it, and to retire to more healthy places. When the Heathens did understand that the Christians were marched off, they fell into the castle with a great multitude, tore it all to pieces, and did demolish it to the very ground, so that now one cannot discern that such a one did stand there before. But this lost troop of the Christians, did at length settle themselves on mount _Libanus_, and began to inhabit it, where they are still remaining in our times, and call themselves (as I have told you before) _Trusci_. About _Bethlehem_, there are some valleys very well tilled with corn and vines, and among the rest a very pleasant and fruitful one that beginneth immediately by the church and fountain, and runs down towards _Jericho_ and _Jordan_. This is below pretty wide, full of Olive and Fig-trees, it also bringeth forth some comfortable herbs, _viz._ some strange _Origanums_, _Tragoriganum_, _Roman Serpillum_, which the _Arabians_ call _Sathar_, _Absinthium Santonicum_, which groweth every where in the Holy Land, this hath small ash coloured leaves, very like unto them of ours, and many small stalks full of small yellowish seeds, it is of an unpleasant smell, very bitter, with a saltish sharpness, wherefore it is reputed to be the _Scheba_ of the _Arabians_; from whence our Wormseed cometh.

In this valley were the shepherds, to whom the angels of the Lord did appear, and declared to them the saving birth of our Lord _Jesus Christ_, saying, ‘Behold I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people; for unto you is born this day, in the city of _David_, a Saviour, which is _Christ_ the Lord, _&c._ and suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host, praising God, and saying: Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will towards men.’ In that place, which is about half a league below _Bethlehem_, is still a church, which also Queen _Helena_ did build, as _Nicephorus_ testifieth in the thirtieth chapter of his eighth book, this is for the greatest part fallen in, so that nothing more but a small arch is to be seen of it. Hard by it did stand the tower _Ader_, as St _Jerom_ writes, whereby _Israel_ did erect a tent, (as you may read in _Genesis_:) and looked after the sheep with his twelve sons. This is in our time so demolished, that it lieth quite in ruins. Beyond it, in another valley, not far from _Bethlehem_, they shew still to this day a large orchard full of Citron, Lemon, Orange, Pomegranate, and Fig-trees, and many others; which King _Solomon_ did plant in his days, with ponds, canals, and other water works, very pleasantly prepared; as he saith himself in _Eccles._ chap. ii. verse 5. ‘I made me gardens and orchards, and I planted trees in them of all kind of fruits; I made me pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees.’ This is still in our time full of good and fruitful trees, wherefore it is worthy to be seen for their sakes, and also for the ditches sake that are still there. Wherefore I really believe it to be that same whereof _Josephus_ maketh mention in his eighth book of the _Jewish Antiquities_, and the seventh chapter; saying, ‘And the King rode in a chariot, cloathed in white, and it was his custom to ride early in the morning to a place called _Hetten_, a hundred furlongs from _Jerusalem_, where he had a garden with water pools and works very pleasant, and rich. Thither went the King for his pleasure; and did always use great diligence and consideration in all things, and took delight to see every thing neat and handsome.’ _&c._ After we had seen the chiefest places within and without, near and afar off _Bethlehem_, we returned to _Jerusalem_ again by another way, that was near as far again about, and went over the mountains of _Judea_, which have first as you come from thence very good and fruitful valleys, full of vines and corn, but the nearer you come to _Jerusalem_, the higher and rougher are the mountains. In this way, half a league from _Nebeleschol_, the friers shewed us a well very rich of water, just by the road that goeth down to _Gaza_, this runneth into a small rivulet, wherein the holy Apostle _Phillip_ did baptize _Candaces_ chamberlain to the Queen of _Ethiopia_; by it, is nothing else to be seen but a small church and a fish pond. From thence we came over high, rough and steep hills into the deserts, where St _John_ the _Baptist_ did lead his life in his young age, there is nothing to be seen but a very ancient chapel, and hard by it a delicate spring on the top of the hill, where we went up to refresh ourselves a little, with eating and drinking of what we had taken along with us. About the roads grow many trees, by the inhabitants called _Charnubi_, the fruit whereof is called _St John_’s _Bread_ in our country, and is brought to us in great plenty. From thence we had still a very rough and hilly way to the church and habitation of _Zachary_, whither the Virgin _Mary_ did come (climbing over the hills) to give _Elizabeth_ a visit, _&c._ Before it, a league distance nearer to the town, at the end of the valley _Raphaim_ (whereof the holy Scripture maketh often mention, _viz._ in _Joshua_ xv. and xviii. and in I _Chronicles_ chap. xii.) stands in a very pleasant and fruitful place, the church of St _John_ the _Baptist_; and by it, before you come quite to it, falleth down the spring of _Nephthaah_, that is very rich of water. This church is very ancient, but yet pretty well built, and hath on the left hand as you go in, a deep and hidden cave, wherein _Elizabeth_ did hide herself with _John_ her child, that it might not be slain with the children of _Bethlehem_ by the servants of _Herod_, whereof you may read more in the _Proto-Evangelium_ of St _Jacob_, where it is thus written: ‘When _Elizabeth_ did hear, that among the rest of the innocents which _Herod_ had commanded to be killed, her son _John_ was also searched for, she did climb up the hills, and looked about her where she might hide him; but when she saw no place there where she could preserve him, she sighed, and cried out with a loud voice, saying: _O ye hills of ~Gad~, take both the mother and the child_; for she could not ascend them; the hill did open itself instantly, and took them into it, _&c._’ But how afterwards _Herod_ did search for _John_, and how he did threaten and exhort his father _Zachary_ to tell him where his son was, and also how his servants did kill _Zachary_ (not being satisfied with his answer) for it in the porch of the temple is at length related in the books of the martyrs of the learned and reverend _Ludowich Rabus_. As you come from the beforementioned church, nearer to the town of _Jerusalem_, there is still seen a large pillar, that is of great antiquity, and lieth very high between the mountains on a high hill, five furlongs off of _Jerusalem_, wherefore some take it to be ruins of the fortification of _Betzura_; but as far one can understand by the books of _Maccabees_, that is situated more towards the east behind mount _Olivet_. Just before it, within, stands in the valley (that is full of pleasant Olive-trees) a very old, yet well built church, called the Holy Cross, whereof some _Greek_ friers are possessed; they pretend, that in that place the tree did stand, that was made use of for the cross of Christ: this we did soon leave, and went over a small height through the gate of _Hebron_ again into _Jerusalem_, and made ourselves ready to return the next day again to _Joppe_ towards our ship. And so we rewarded the father Guardian, their interpreter, and others that had conducted us, for their faithfulness and services done us according to our ability, to their full content and satisfaction, wherefore the father Guardian did freely give to each of us a certificate under his usual seal, that we had seen all the holy places which were named in it. This done, we went away, and came the next day to _Rama_ towards _Joppe_. By the way, I found some _Lentiscus_’s, from whence the _Mastich_ cometh, _Arbutus_, _Ilex_, and a strange sort of Willows, by the inhabitants called _Sassaf_, but by _Theophrastus_, _Elæagnus_, some Olive-trees, Palm-trees, white Mulberry-trees, _Sumach_-trees, and _Styrax_, from which cometh a sweet smelling Gum, called by the same name, that is brought from thence into our country; _Spartium_, _Lycium_, which is a strange shrub, and the juice thereof retaineth the same name, and is found sometimes in our Apothecaries shops; the King and Prophet _David_ maketh mention thereof, under the _Hebrew_ name _Hadhadd_, by which also the _Arabians_ call it, their speech running much upon the _Hebrew_. Hereabout grow also very many fruits (called _Siliquæ_ by the _Latins_, and κερατιὰ and κερατονία by the _Greeks_, but by the inhabitants _Charnubi_) whereof many are brought out to us, and are very well known by the name of St _John_’s _Bread_. These are so common in these countries, that they esteem them less than we do the worst fruit we have, wherefore they give them to the cattle to eat. Wherefore it is probable, that the prodigal son desired to fill his belly with these fruits, which, as it appeareth by the _Greek_ text, the hogs did eat, and yet could not have enough of them to satisfy his hunger. Besides these, I found also by the way many Turpentine-trees, by the inhabitants called _Botin_ and _Albotin_, which are very common in _France_, chiefly about _Montpelier_, they have small green kernels, that are of a reddish colour, and hollow within, and are oftentimes basely sold and used by the Apothecaries for the true _Carpabalsamum_; for these and others abovementioned, as we read in _Nehemiah_, chap. viii. the _Israelites_ did take bows, and made themselves tents of them to live in, during their great feast of Tabernacles. I saw also chiefly between _Rama_ and _Joppa_ some white _Barberry_-trees, which I took first for _Paliurus_, the third kind of _Rhamnus_, unto which they are very like, except the fruits whereby I did discern them first, and besides, they are much higher, and their branches covered with a white bark. Now although they are not to be taken for the same, yet they are very like unto the second _Paliurus_, whereof _Theophrastus_ maketh mention in the fourth chapter, and the fourth verse. Among the corn, I did find a strange _Origanum_, _Serpillum_; _Smilax aspera_, _Triones_ of _Theophrastus_, whereof I have made mention above.

After we had made our selves quite ready to sail for _Tripolis_, whither we had about forty _German_ miles, we went aboard the ship, and set sail with a fair wind. But this did not last long, for, as soon as we were out at sea, there arose one that was so contrary to us, that we hardly reached the confines of _Tirus_ and _Sidon_ the fourth day, where we arrived in our former voyage at night, as I have said before. I saw nothing of any buildings on the shoar, but some small houses in the place where formerly the town _Sarepta_ did stand, which (as you may read in St _Luke_, chap. iv. and in III _Kings_, chap. xvii.) was situated near unto _Sidon_, or as _Josephus_ writes in his eighth of the _Jewish Antiquities_, chap. xiii. between _Tyrus_ and _Sydon_, in the country of _Phœnicia_, wherein the holy prophet _Elias_, during the great scarcity, did live a great while with a widow, and did restore her dead son to life again.

Departing thence, the night befel us before we gat overagainst _Sidon_, but we went so near the town, that we could see the houses, and some rocks butting upon them by moon-light. From thence, the nearer we came to _Tripolis_, the more the wind was for us, so that we arrived there on the first of _October_ in the year 1575, in very good health and condition. Wherefore I give eternal thanks, glory and praise unto the Almighty God the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost. _Amen._

CHAP. XXIII.

_How I took ship at ~Tripolis~ in ~Syria~, and sail’d back from thence to ~Venice~, and travell’d home again to my own relations at ~Augspurg~._

At my arrival at _Tripolis_, when I hoped that something might have been done for the good of _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, whom I left in prison behind, as is above mention’d, towards his deliverance; that we, seeing we came out together, might have remained together a while longer, and have ended our journey to our content, I found there was not only nothing done to the purpose, but his cause came to be worse and worse, so that it was even or odd whether I should not have been cast into prison also, and beaten severely to boot. When thus he was detain’d in prison, I receiv’d a letter and command, as well from his adversary, as from my own friends, desiring me to take the cause in hand earnestly, to bring them both to an accommodation; and that if I would do so, I should do him greater service, than if I should stay a whole year longer at _Tripoli_, expecting his deliverance. Now altho’ many means were used after my departure, for his liberty, yet they proved all fruitless, unsuccessful and vain, so that he was forced to spend three intire years miserably in this severe _Turkish_ imprisonment, until at length he was miraculously deliver’d. Wherefore I got everything ready for my departure, and went aboard the ship called the St _Matthew_, on the day of St _Leonhard_, being the sixth day of _November_ in the year 1575, having first taken my leave of the above-mention’d my dear friend _Hans Ulrich Krafft_, whom I loved as my own brother, and the next day we put out, having a very good wind. So our navigation proceeded in the beginning very successfully, and we discover’d on the third day early the great island of _Cyprus_. But when we approach’d unto it, a hurricane arose suddenly, and blew so fiercely upon us, that it wound our great sail round about our main mast, so that it was a wonder to me, that it did not bring it by the board, or (as it would if the seamen had not struck it down immediately) turn the ship over, and sink her. These winds arise from a wind that is call’d by the _Greeks_, _Typhon_; and _Pliny_ calleth it _Vertex_ and _Vortex_; but as dangerous as they are, as they arise suddenly, so quickly they are laid again also. The seamen pretend, that one shall sooner perceive them in the ship below, because they come up from the depth of the sea, than above deck. After this had continued about a quarter of an hour it was quite over, so that it was perfectly calm, and the sea very quiet. So our seamen hoisted up their sail again, and steered towards the _Capo del Græco_, with an intention to run in still before sun-set into the harbour of the metropolis call’d _Famagusta_; but before we were aware of it, another wind arose that did send us back again, so we stood out at sea, and went on with it so well, that we passed the island that is one hundred and sixty _Italian_ miles long. Not long after the wind did change, and it came to be foul weather, and so contrary to us, that we went on but very slowly, and we were forced to drive upon the sea only for several days, until at length we came before the land of _Pamphylia_ and _Lycia_, which came in sight now and then, nearer to the island of _Rhodes_; then arose a northerly wind that helped us into our true road again, and blew so fresh, that in a few hours we went by that mountainous island _Scarpanthus_, and afterwards by _Solomon_’s point of the isle of _Candia_ out towards the south, which is forty leagues farther; and we had been almost quite thrown over into _Africa_, if we had not sheltered ourselves under the next mountains, so we got clear of the noise and turbulency of the wind and sea; but instead of that our ship came so near unto the shoar of _Candia_, that we feared every moment to have been shipwreck’d, which had certainly befallen us, if our _Nacchier_, that managed the sails, with his seamen (who wrought very hard, until they brought the ship out at sea again) had not for two days and nights done their utmost endeavour. When we kept thus out at sea, foul weather befel us again, and contrary and rough winds blew afresh, so that it was very dangerous sailing; wherefore our master as well as the men thought it best to get into an harbour; but finding that it was very dangerous to get in there, they went back again to the island _Calderon_, which lieth not above a _German_ mile from _Candia_, to land there, and to stay for better weather. This island is small, and so rough and sandy within, that it cannot be inhabited; but yet being full of bushes, those of _Candy_, turn, chiefly in the summer, their cattel into it. Here I found a kind of Mandrake with blew flowers in great quantity, and also very many _Oxycedri_ like unto our Juniper bushes, which are almost as high as our Pine-trees. When we, during this hard weather, were in this island _Calderon_ for shelter, we saw sometimes clouds in the shape of a pillar, that came down from the skies to the next mountain, and so extended themselves sloping down into the next sea. _Pliny_ makes mention also of them in his forty ninth chapter of the second book. When this did touch the sea, it begun to suck, as it were, thro’ a spout so fiercely, that the water began to move in that place, as if it were in a storm, so that we could not only hear the noise, but also see the great motion thereof. In the beginning it was pretty clear, but the longer it remained there the darker it grew, until at length it arose up again and ascended into the skies like unto a thick cloud. Wherefore it may very well be, that sometimes worms, frogs, fungusses, snails, muscles, _&c._ may fall down with the rain, chiefly in those places that are near to the sea; for I have myself seen it many times in my travels between _Bononia_ and _Florence_ on the high mountains, where I have found several of them. When the wind blew fair for us again, and we had sufficiently provided ourselves with wood and fresh water, we hoisted up our sails again and came away; and at length, not without great labour and changing of the wind, we got out before the island of _Candy_, which is about two hundred and fifty _Italian_ leagues long, into the open sea, with an intention to go strait away for _Venice_. In the mean time one of our seamen did catch on a hook, that he had baited with some meat, a large fish, by the Latins call’d _Lamia_, but this fish being of some hundred weight in bulk, he brought him upon the hook by degrees to the ship, then they fastened a rope about his gills, and so drew him up very safely. When they did cut it open to salt it, I found that it’s bones were but very small, and not harder than a cartilage. They gave us now and then some of it to eat, but it was so much salted, that we could not eat it, so that at last they were forced to leave it. Soon after one of the Pilgrims, that was a Priest at _Lille_ in _Flanders_, got a bloody flux so violently, that he was in danger of his life, so I took care of him, and gave him what physic I had by me in the ship. When we came to the island of _Cerygo_, else call’d _Cithera_, belonging to the _Venetians_, lying near to the _Morea_, (from whence _Paris_ took away the Queen of King _Menelaus_, and carry’d her to _Troy_) upon a sudden a hurricane arose towards night with blowing, thundering and lightening, so that we at several times did despair of our lives. For when the waves swelled as big as large rocks, and pressed very hard upon our ship, so that they did fling it now on this, and then on the other side again, with great violence; so that not only our goods, arms, trunks, and boxes were tumbled up and down in the ship, but that also we were forced to take great care of ourselves during this tempest, that we might not tumble over board, of which we were in great danger. But how terribly soever this looked in the dark night, yet it still increased; for in a little while after the place that held the cannon shot that were near unto the steerage, where I had my cabin, broke open, so that the balls ran up and down over all the ship according as she rolled. Soon after the beating of the waves knock’d off the garland that was behind at the outside of the ship, and left some nails about a finger thick, that held it in the wood, with such a power, that one might hear it almost all over the ship. After all this the great sail was also torn off and fell down into the sea, so that we thought no less than that we were all lost; for then the ship was wholly left to the mercy of the roaring waves, that flung her, and tossed her about like a football from place to place, (which you may deduce from thence, that the Guardian that held himself fast by the main mast upon the deck, was sometimes above a man’s depth under water) so that every moment we expected to be overturned, and drown’d. Yet in all this calamity, we did not give over all, but did what we could for our safety, seeing that we could not do what we would, we stood together and pulled the sail out again, yet we did not all pull together, for it was so dark that we could not see one another but when it lightened, and in the place of the torn one we put up another new one; for generally in such ships they are provided with two sails, and also with two masts and rudders. After the seamen had put on the new sail, not without great labour, difficulty and danger, they fell down upon their knees, and began to pray to their intercessors and patrons, which every one chused for himself, by their names, some to _Peter_, others to St _Paul_, others to the holy Virgin _Mary_, but chiefly and before all the rest to St _Nicholas_, who in the like imminent dangers, necessities and calamities, hath oftenest before all the rest shew’d himself by sundry tokens, according to their opinion, ready to assist and to help, so that they might be sure of his help, and so comfort themselves with a certain deliverance.

After they had said their prayers, they let me understand that they had seen three burning candles on the top of the main mast, wherefore some of them for joy vowed solemnly to go a Pilgrimage to certain Holy Places, or else to give a certain Sum to one of their churches. This tempestuous weather held on all the night long and also for a great part of the next day, so that the seamen prayed three several times; I cannot justly tell whether I was more astonished at their prayers or at the tempestuousness of the sea, but chiefly when I understood, that they sought, without _Christ_ our true Saviour and Helper, in this great danger to others, and such that did not only know nothing of us, as we may see by the words of _Esaiah_, when he saith, _Abraham knoweth nothing of us, and Israel doth not know us_; but that they also (if they had been still alive) would have directed us themselves to the true and only Mediator _Jesus Christ_. And so we read, That the virgin _Mary_ her self did not know what was become of her Son, until she found him sitting amongst the teachers in the temple of _Jerusalem_: and also at the wedding of _Cana_ in _Galilea_, she did direct the servants (that told her that they wanted wine) herself to her son our Lord _Christ_, (that they might not look upon her any more) when she saith to them, _What he bids you so do_. Seeing then that the saints will not receive such honour that only belongs unto the Lord, and on the contrary, the Lord bids us come to him, I turned from them all to _Christ_ (when our ship was almost quite covered over with the waves) to awake the _Lord_ as his Disciples did when he was asleep, saying, _Lord help us or else we perish_; and with the Apostle St _Peter_, _O Lord save and deliver us, let us not sink down quite, but draw us out from the depth of the sea, and preserve us graciously in this great danger_. This tempest made our seamen so distracted, that they did hardly know whether, and how far the weather had drove us out of our way, until we came quite about the _Morea_, and saw the Island _Zant_ (formerly called _Zacynthus_). This we left on our right, and did go strait forwards to the next Island of _Cephalonia_. This is about 250 leagues distant from _Candy_, and doth belong as well as _Zant_, to the _Venetians_, and had over against us a fine large and strong port called _Argostala_, before which it was 14 days before we arrived: towards the left, a ship (being under full sail before a strong wind and missing the entry) was staved all in pieces. Into this we got (the Lord be thanked) safe, and remained there for some days to refresh ourselves. Just behind this island is the channel _Viscardo_, wherein the great _Armada_ of the _Christians_ did ride against the _Turkish_ ones, until at length it came to a fight before it, where the _Christians_ obtained a glorious victory. After we found our selves in a safer and quieter place than we were before, and did hope quickly to get good bread also, instead of our old black and worm-eaten biskets (which had been loaden in _Spain_ a great while agone, wherewith we had made shift a good while) some of us went the next morning into the next village (which was pretty large) to buy some. But we did miss our aim very much; for being that the inhabitants continually and hourly feared that the _Turks_, whose _Armada_ was not far off, would make a descent, upon them, therefore they conveyed all the goods they had into the castle, that we could see lye very high beyond the great harbour, and had kept no more but what was necessary for their daily use; so that no provision at all was to be had or found: And they had so little bread, that we went about in the village from house to house and could hardly get for money as much bread as would serve us for our dinner. But as for wine they let us have what we would, which was red, and very good, which the Merchants knew very well, wherefore they bought a considerable quantity thereof, to carry to _Venice_, and so did our ship’s master also. We also found many small grapes growing there, on the vines, as many as I saw of them, are rather less and lower than ours in our vineyards. During this our tarrying, our pilot being sick, so that he was not able to direct the ship any farther according to the compass, our master strove to get another, and that the rather, because the _Adriatick_ sea, whereinto we expected to come daily, is very dangerous, because of it’s narrowness, plenty of islands, and hidden rocks, to navigate. So we got a _Greek_, and after the weather began to be fairer, we put out to sea again. But this did not continue long, for when we came a little out of the harbour, we had other winds upon the sea, that were rather contrary to us, and hindered us so very much in our navigation, that after many days we arrived only before the fort of _Corfu_, otherwise call’d _Corsica_, which we could hardly see in that misty and foggy weather, not without great pains and labour. This ill weather, with the contrary wind, lasted very long, and encreased more and more, the wind continuing high; so that we had almost been cast over into _Apulia_ against our intention, chiefly between _Cataxo_ and _Ragusa_, which _Ptolemy_ called _Epidaurus_, had we not quickly made the island of _Meleda_. So we spent our time in this navigation, not only in hard and contrary winds, with great pains and labour, but were besides obliged to be above deck, because she was filled up with goods all within to the weight of above twelve thousand centners, where we endured great cold, and must remain there in all the rain and storms.

After this we went into a small channel between this and another island, where we lay at anchor all night; early in the morning we saw a galley coming from the sea upon us. As soon as we saw her, before we could well discern her, because of the too great distance, we made all ready for our defence to resist her; but when she came nearer to us, and we found by her flags that she was our friend, we were at rest again, and discharged, when she went by us, three great guns to salute her according to the usual custom of the sea. When she was past by, we weighed our anchor also, and sailed to _Curtzola_, another island and town, towards _Dalmatia_, call’d _Corcyra nigra_, which is very strong, and formerly did belong to _Ragusa_, but now it is subjected to the _Venetians_. This we left on the left hand, and went towards another, now call’d _Liesana_, by _Ptolomy_ call’d _Pharia_, which lay about fifty leagues nearer to us. This we did soon make, and arrived in the port on Christmass-eve, which is close by the town, so that one can look very pleasantly into the wide open place. In the morning early at the breaking of the day, those in the town discharged some great guns for joy, which were in the next church standing near to the harbour, according to their ancient custom on such great holy-days. When these had begun, those also that were upon the castle, which is very strong, and lieth close to the town walls up very high, did discharge some; after them, those also that were upon the six gallies, that arrived in the harbour after us, did the same; at length it came also to our turn, that lay at anchor in the harbour, as well the little as the great ones, whereof there was a great many; there it began to bounce and crackle, for in our ship we had sixteen great ones, and it made such a noise in the harbour, that one would have thought all the buildings fell over one another. This shooting also occasioned so great and thick a smoak, that we could hardly see one another. After dinner we went ashore to buy good new bread, instead of our worm-eaten biskets, whereof, God be thanked, we found enough, which did refresh us very much. In this time the Priest that was dangerously ill of the bloody flux, was so well recover’d of it, that he with his comrades went over to _Ancona_, to go from thence to _Rome_. After we had rode at anchor in this harbour for four days, by reason of bad weather, we weighed at length, and came away to the ancient and famous town _Zara_, by _Ptolomy_ call’d _Jadera_, which is thought to be one hundred and fifty leagues. Between _Liesana_ and _Zara_ there lie abundance of small islands, where a great many pirates shelter themselves, that are call’d by a peculiar name _Scacki_. These sleep in the day time, and are here and there on high places, to take notice of the ships that go up and down, that they may fall upon them in the night, and take them at a disadvantage, so that it is very dangerous to ride there; and that so much the more, because the sea is hereabouts very narrow, by reason of the many islands that lie in it, wherefore the pilots must daily take care to get in good time into a port, where they may ride securely all night; nay, sometimes even the ships in the harbours are not secure from these _Scacki_ or pirates, for so it happened that we were once in a port at anchor in our voyage, which although it was very well secured and strong, yet we were not secure there from the _Scacki_’s; as it had happened in this same harbour but a year before, to a ship called _Cantarena_, (which the _Scacki_ did get into by night,) which came off greatly by the loss, so that they had great occasion to remember it; wherefore we divided ourselves into four parts, and so kept watch by turns all night long. While we thus kept watching, we saw them several times come in small boats, as if they were fisher-men, yet as I am informed, there are often forty, fifty and sixty men that lie hid in these small boats, and watch their opportunity to get near to the great ships, to board them, and enter upon them. Wherefore as soon as we saw that they would come to us, we cry’d out: _Fuoco, fuoco_, that is to say, _Fire_, to shoot off the guns at them; when they heard this, they presently answer’d: _Amici, amici_; that is to say, _we are friends_, and so they went away again. Now when we believed that we were escaped all danger, we got into a greater one by the oversight of our pilot; for when he had order to go to _Zara_, he did not obey this command, fearing that our ship-master would put him out there because of his ill behaviour, and take another in his room, wherefore that he might stay longer with us, he steered for the islands of _Vergetes_, thinking that because he could get over with gallies (whom he had all along generally served) he might also get over with a merchant-man (that was heavy laden, and so drew more water) safe and without any danger. But this did not succeed well, for when we sailed along between the islands, we lost the depth of water by degrees, and at last struck with a great cracking, so that we could expect nothing but shipwreck, which would of necessity have followed, if our rudder had not remained whole in this striking, and lifted up the poop of the ship, and so shoved the fore-part sidewards into the depth; to which success the swelling sails did not also contribute a little. So did God, our dear Lord, miraculously send that the ship, chiefly by the help of the rudder, which was at least three spans deeper in the water than the ship, got off and went on her way. Having escaped again this great misery and danger, we landed in another island, that was not far off; over-against which, on the side of _Dalmatia_, lieth the village _Mortera_, between two famous towns, _viz._ _Zara_ and _Sebernis_, by _Ptolemy_ called _Ficum_, on a mountain of this island, behind which lieth a good village, you may pleasantly see the whole situation, together with the confines of the _Turks_, very plainly; in this village we took up and lodged in it, until our sloop, that we had sent out to _Zara_ for another and more expert pilot, came back again.

As soon as they arrived with the new pilot, we broke up again, embarked and sailed for _Venice_, whither we had about two hundred and fifty _Italian_ leagues. When we came out before the castle of St _Michael_, which lieth in the sea over-against _Zara_ on a high mountain, a north wind arose, with such a tempestuousness, that it had almost cast us towards _Italy_, had not our pilot (who knew the shores, and landing of ships, better than the former) done his best, and landed presently, which could not be done but with great might and labour, for we were bound to go against the wind, yet we accomplish’d it; which you may easily guess, for of those six gallies that met us in _Liesena_, but two could make our harbour (because they were not strong enough for the wind, altho’ they used their utmost force in rowing) the rest were forced to go back again, and shelter themselves behind the outward islands.

Into the same harbour was also just before us run in, to shun the ill weather, a yatcht, that had about eleven men on board; they did pump out the water that was run in, and dry their sails upon the land, by which we did conjecture that they also had not been in small danger. We did send some of our men on board of them to know who they were; and they answered us, That they had letters from the Great Sultan, to their masters the _Venetians_, concerning a peace that was agreed upon, which their envoy at _Constantinople_ had sent by land to _Cattaro_, one of their towns, where they were delivered up to them, to carry them to _Venice_ with all possible speed. After this great storm was over, we went on again in our voyage. By the way I saw nothing worth mentioning, but now and then a village, where sometimes, if convenient, we landed, and staid there all night. In one of them, I found a great deal of saffron, which was very like unto that of _Vienna_, both in look and goodness. So at length we came to the large and very-deep Gulph, _Carnaro_, by which within lieth the town _Segna_, where the Windy-country endeth, and the _Hister-land_ beginneth. This Gulph is about an hundred miles long, and thirty broad, so that in clear weather one may see very well over it, but it is very dangerous to sail over it, and because of it’s great motion, it is easily discern’d from the sea from without; over this we came, God be thanked, very well, and landed at _Rovigna_, a small town situated on a high rock. This belongeth, as well as others thereabout, as _Pola_, _Parentza_, &c. to the _Venetians_, from whence to _Venice_ we have still about an hundred miles. But being that it is very dangerous to go from thence with large and loaden ships to _Venice_, therefore that republic doth keep there always several experienced pilots (to prevent farther mischief) that do nothing else but conduct the ships that arrive in _Histria_ safely thither. And these do not easily put off, unless they have very good mild and clear weather; which was the occasion that our ship did tarry there; so that we all, except the seamen which we left in the ship behind, went into a barge on the fourteenth day of _January_ late, and went all night long to _Venice_, where we all safely arrived the fifteenth of the same month about noon.

At my arrival I met with some very good friends and acquaintance, with whom I stay’d for several days, to refresh and rest myself after the great hardships I had endur’d, and dangers I had passed. After they had made me very welcome, and shewn unto me all kindness and civility, and I had rested myself sufficiently, I resolved to travel with a _Venetian_ post into _Germany_ again; so we travell’d together from thence to _Treviso_, _Trent_, _Botzan_, _Inspruck_, _Amberga_, &c. (whereabouts I found my cousin _Hans Widholtz_, and _George Hindermayer Botzen_ riding by him, who kept me all that night with them in their inn) so at length I arrived on the twelft day of _February_ 1576, at _Augsburg_, my dear native country, to the great rejoycing of my dear parents and relations, which I found all in indifferent good health. I thank the Almighty, merciful and good God, that is one in his Essence, and three in Person, for all his mercies he hath bestow’d upon me, in all my great dangers and necessities, both by sea and land, for his dear Son Jesus Christ’s sake. Praise, glory, and thanks be unto him, for ever and ever. _Amen._

_End of Dr ~Rauwolff~’s Travels._

A
COLLECTION
OF CURIOUS
TRAVELS and VOYAGES.

VOL. II.

CONTAINING
OBSERVATIONS
MADE
_By several Learned and Famous MEN_,
In their Journeys thro’ the LEVANT.

_VIZ._
The ISLE of CANDY, GREECE,
ÆGYPT, ASIA MINOR, _&c._

By Mons. _Belon_, _Prosper Alpinus_, Dr _Huntingdon_,
Mr _Vernon_, Sir _George Wheeler_, Dr _Smith_,
Mr _Greaves_, Father _Vansleb_, and others.

To which are added,
Two Itineraries to _Mecca_, and into _Æthiopia_.

A

COLLECTION

OF CURIOUS

TRAVELS and VOYAGES.

VOL. II.

CHAP. I.

_Mr ~Belon~’s remarks in the island of ~Crete~ or ~Candy~._

The roots of mount _Ida_, call’d now by the natives _Psiloriti_, extend to both the shores of the island; when I was at the top, I not only saw under me all _Candy_, but some adjacent islands, as _Milo_, _Cerigo_, &c. The snow lies all the year long on this hill, whilst the plains underneath are extreamly scorch’d, and burnt up; it is so cold, that the shepherds cannot inhabit it in the summer-time, but are forced every night to descend, and leave their flocks of goats and sheep feeding. This mountain on one side, abounds with pleasant springs, woods, many sorts of trees, shrubs, and herbs, as Maples, _Ilices_ or Holm-oaks, _Arbutus_ and _Adrachne_, _Alaterni_, _Cisti Labdaniferi_, _Firrs_, _Cypress_, _Chamælea_, _Thymelea_, _Oxycedrus_, _Nerion_ or _Oleander_ with a white flower, _Olive-trees_, _Vines_, many _Legumes_ and _Pulse_.

Near round this famous mountain _Ida_ are found _Salvia Pomifera_, which is carry’d to all the markets, _Caper-shrubs_, _Mandragora Mas & fœmina_, two kinds of _Pæony_ with a white flower, _Tragium seu Androsæmum fœtidum_, _Leontepetalum_, _Melilotus vera Odorata_, _Trifolium Mœnianthe_ (perhaps our _Palustre_) _Heliocryson_, which grows so thick as to cover and shelter the hares; _Stæchas Citrina_, two kinds of _Tragacanth_, which yield no gum in this island; _Staphis agria_, common up and down; _Coris_, a sort of _Hypericum_, with leaves like Heath or Tamarisks, grows plentifully, the root hath an unpleasant taste, and vomited me. The _Anagyris_ stinks so upon the roads, that it causes the head-ach, and scarce any animal will touch it. _Tithymalus Dendroides_, _Thapsia_, _Ferula_, _Libanotis_, and _Seseli_ abound. _Agriomelea frutex_, a sort of _Sorbus_ or _Cotonaster_; a fourth species of _Aristolochia_ different from those three describ’d by the ancients; it scandent like a Smilax. The _Coccus Baphica_ or _Kermes_ is found plentifully here upon an _Ilex_, the shepherds and boys gather it in _June_, separate the red animalcules from the vesicle or excrescence by sieves, and form them into balls very gently for sale, for if they are squeezed or press’d, they dissolve, and the colour perishes. The _Dictamnus_ grows only between the fissures of the rocks, but the _Pseudo dictamus_ in other places. _Lotus Arbor_, _Zizyphus_ or _Jujube_, _Scolymnus Chrisanthemos_, call’d commonly _Ascolimbros_, whose milky root and young leaves make a common dish, _Tithymalus Myrsinites_ and _Paralius_ in the mountainous and maritime places, as also a _Gnaphalium candicans littoream_, and a wild _Brassica_, _Chamæsyce_ and _Soldanella_, a _Dracunculus_ with an Ivy-leaf; the _Halimus_ makes their common hedges up and down the island, the tops are edulous; _Agnus Castus_, _Sedum fruticescens_, _Thymum legitimum_, which last serves them for common fuel; the _Thymbra_ or _Satureia vulgaris_, all loaded with _Epithymum_ or _Didder_; the _Tribulus Terrestris_ is very noxious to their fields, and Pulse; _Scammonea_ or _Schammony_ in hilly places, _Sesamum_ and _Xylon_, or Cotton, are sown in _April_; Pitch is boyl’d out of the Pines on the mountains. There is none of our _Asparagus_, but instead of it two prickly kinds, call’d _Corruda_ and _Politricha_. Ten varieties of wild _Anemone_’s. There is a sort of Artichoak, call’d by the shepherds _Agriocinara_, whose turbinated root is sold by many Druggists for the _Costus Indicus_, the tops are eaten, the flower is white, sometimes purple. There is a sort of _Carline_ thistle, call’d _Chamœlion Albus_, whose odorate root sweats out a Gum which the women in _Candy_ chew, as they in _Scio_ do Mastich, or they in _Lemnos_ the Gum of a _Condrilla_. Two sorts of _Acanthus_, one soft, the other prickly. The inhabitants have not left off the old manner of preserving the tops of an _Anonis_, as also the tender shoots of an _Eryngium_. The island affords three kinds of _Origanum_, a sort of Squill or Sea-onion, _Orobus_, _Securidaca_, and many other legumes. It abounds with _Terebinths_ and Mastich-trees, Laurels, Styrax, and arborescent _Ricinus_, or _Palma-Christi_; _Aspalathus_, and a _Genisto spartium_ call’d _Echinopoda_.