Chapter XIV: Front Matter (14)

Towards the east, are other people which esteem themselves Christians, and among the rest, chiefly the _Nestorians_ called after the Heretic _Nestorius_, who was a Bishop at _Constantinople_. Some of their priests live upon the mount _Calvaria_ in the temple, and there are a great many adherents to this sect, most of them living in _Mesopotamia_, _Chaldea_ and _Assyria_, but chiefly in the mountainous country of the _Curtans_, called _Carduci_ by _Ptolomy_, which they almost quite possess, and have poisoned with their base and obnoxious error, as if it were by an infectious air; for in passing through, I have found many of them in their cities, as _Hapril_, _Carcuck_, _Mosel_, formerly called _Nineveh_. They are strong and warlike people, but full of vices, and from their infancy given to robbing. They inhabit towards north and east, as is before said, upon the _Armenians_ and _Medes_; and they are a very ancient people, whereof chiefly _Xenophon_ maketh mention under the name of _Carducci_, and are called to this day _Curters_. They speak their peculiar language, which neither the _Arabians_, _Armenians_, nor _Turks_ do understand; they are of a brownish colour, like unto the _Surians_ and _Maronites_, and wear the same cloth or habiliments that one cannot readily discern or distinguish one from the other, save only by their flesh coloured lists in their turbants. The Grand Signior is their head, whom they obey, and they are kept and respected very well by the _Turks_, partly that he may not give them occasion for an insurrection, because they are upon the borders, and partly because _Mahomet_ hath charged them to be kind to them before others, and that the rather, because he had a frier of their sect called _Sergius_ for his tutor, who did baptize him, and counselled and assisted him to make such laws, and to give them to his adherents; and so you may still see, that they agree more than any other sect with the _Saracens_. For whereas they believe, that in Christ, according to his two natures, are two distinct persons, one of the Godhead, the other of the Manhood. They will not allow, any more than _Mahomet_, the Virgin _Mary_ to be the mother of God, but the mother of Christ, according to his human nature. They have a Prelate instead of the Pope, whom they call _Jacelich_. They bless and give the Sacrament as the _Surians_ do, and use in their spiritual services the _Chaldean_ language, else they speak the common of their provinces, _viz._ in their own country, as is abovesaid, their own language; in _Chaldea_ and _Mesopotamia_, commonly the _Arabian_ and _Saracen_ language. So in _Assyria_ beyond the river _Tygris_, where the two mighty Princes the _Turk_ and the King of _Persia_ do border upon one another, the language of the _Turks_, _Persians_ and _Medes_, although they are quite differing. These and other languages the holy Apostles did understand, and in them they did speak on the day of Pentecost, when they received the Holy Ghost, as you may read in _Acts_ ii. verse 5. where it is thus written: ‘And there were dwelling at _Jerusalem_, _Jews_, devout men out of every nation under heaven, each whereof heard the Apostles speak in his own language wherein he was born, as that of the _Parthians_, _Medes_, _Elamites_, or _Persians_, that of those also that live in _Mesopotamia_ and _Judea_, &c.’ This sect was rejected and condemned in the council of _Ephesus_.

CHAP. XVI.

_Of the ~Jacobites~ called ~Golti~._

In the temple of mount _Calvaria_ also live, in the chapel behind the Sepulchre of Christ, another sort, that boast to be Christians, call’d _Jacobites_, after _Jacob_ the Heretic, who was a pupil of the Patriarch of _Alexandria_. They pretend to have been first converted to the Christian Religion by the holy Evangelist and Apostle _Matthew_; but they did not adhere to it, but fell afterwards into a great many errors, so that in our time they are divided into other sects and orders. For some have assumed the order of St _Macharius_, who with _Eutichius_ did own or believe no more but one nature in Christ; others that of St _Anthony_, who was an Eremite in the year of our Lord Christ 324, in _Egypt_. Others have their male children circumcised; but others, and the greater part, have their children baptized with fire, and have crosses made on their foreheads or temples, according to the words of St _John_ the _Baptist_ in the third chapter of St _Matthew_ v. 11. _He that cometh after me, shall baptize you with the Holy Ghost and with fire._ They live chiefly in _Egypt_, and in other adjacent places. They are generally subject unto the _Turkish_ Sultan, and speak the vulgar _Arabian_ language, and agree in most points, partly with the _Abyssins_, and partly with the _Surians_. We saw many of their wives go about in the temple, they wear hats near a span high, which at top have a broad brim like unto our bonnets, else they are habited like unto the _Surians_. This Heresy was rejected and condemn’d in the _Chalcedonian_ council.

CHAP. XVII.

_Of the ~Abyssins~, Priest ~John~ called ~Lederwick~, subject unto the King of the ~Moors~._

These live at _Jerusalem_ in the temple of mount _Calvaria_, just by the church door towards the left, and have through their lodging a peculiar way, so that without hindrance, according to their pleasure they may go in and out; and pretend that their King hath made a peculiar agreement to let his subjects have free egress and regress. According to all appearance they are a naked people, yet for all that they may be rich and able; they are of a dark brown colour. When we spoke to them by an interpreter, they shew’d themselves very kind and friendly, and always did give with a great deal of discretion such answers to our questions, that one might easily conclude that they were of good understanding, and well instructed and grounded in their religion. To their King is given, in the beginning of his reign, the sirname of _David_, which else are call’d _Lederwick_, and by the _Persians_, _Amma_, to shew and to make known by it, that they are derived from the kingly race and stem of _David_ and _Solomon_; and to prove this, they alledge the history of the Queen of _Sheba_, call’d _Merquerda_, who, as we read in Scripture, came from rich _Arabia_, with many camels laden with gold, spices, and precious stones, to _Jerusalem_, to see the great wisdom and glory of _Solomon_, whereof she had heard much. When she had been there a good while, and in the mean time was got with child by _Solomon_, and brought him a son into the world call’d _Meytich_, she left him at _Jerusalem_, but she return’d into her own country again. Many years after, when the son was grown up, and came to his understanding, his father, seeing he had more sons, was persuaded to send him home to his mother, who had a greater kingdom than he. So he did dispatch him, and sent along with him the chiefest of his courtiers, and sent him away with a great train, as did become a King. When he was come into his kingdom, he entertained these lords and gentlemen very honourably, and promoted them before all others to the highest and best places, that they might the willinger stay with him. But all this would not prevail with them, but they grew daily more tired, and unwilling to stay longer in these strange and unaccostum’d countries; and this encreased daily more and more, and at length to that height, that they resolved that, if the King would not give them free leave, they would endeavour to make their escape clandestinly against the King’s will to _Jerusalem_ in _Judea_. When this their design came before the King he was very angry, and order’d immediately, that a mark should be burnt on their foreheads, that every body might know them; and issued a proclamation. That all his subjects might watch them, and if any of them, that were a going away should be taken, they should detain them, and send them to him again. Now as at this time the marks did begin, and then those had them that were of a great race, so they are retained by their posterity to this very day, as we still see in these times, that their nobility have them on their foreheads towards the right; yet not all, for there are some that wear them rather upon their shields and arms, &c. These marks are not all alike, for in some you see a bear, a dragon’s head, &c. in others a lyon, a wolf, or three crossed arrows, &c. because every one hath that made that they give in their coats of arms; they colour it with an oil which they call _Achalcinte_, and is brought to them from _Greece_. Besides this custom, they still keep in many things to the ancient ones of the Jews, for they keep the Sabbath for their peculiar holiday; and also they do not eat all sorts of flesh, nor any of them that are forbid as unclean in the Old Testament; they pretend that the holy Apostle _Philip_ hath, when he travell’d with the Chamberlain of _Candaces_ Queen of the _Moors_ to _Gaza_, and converted him there, allow’d them this and other things, being born Jews. Circumcision they believe unnecessary, and that it can neither profit nor hurt a Christian. And again, Baptism they believe to be necessary, wherefore through all his large dominions they bring their children to it on the third day, and baptize them yet with fire, in the name of _God the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost_, whom they believe to proceed only from the Father, and not from the Son, according to the words of St _Matthew_, chap. iii, vers. 11. _He shall baptize you with the Holy Ghost and with fire._ They take the oil of _Achalcinte_, dip a stick into it, and lay frankincense upon it, and set it on fire; and so they let some drops fall down, which do not hurt the children, being mix’d with the oil; and at last they make a cross with it upon the left side of their forehead near unto the temple.

They begin their _Lent_ about _Easter_, as the _Armenians_, wherein the lay-men eat nothing else but fruit, herbs, and pulse; but their Priest generally nothing but bread and water, and so they do every Wednesday and Fryday throughout all the year. They marry also according to the words of St _Paul_, that a Priest shall be a husband of one wife; they give the Lord’s Supper to young and old alike in leaven’d bread in both kinds; and they confess their sins like unto the _Jacobites_, to no body but only God. The _Portuguese_ that go to the _Indies_ know them very well, and love them for being good soldiers, and are glad if they will live among them, and go out and in with them.

CHAP. XVIII.

_Of the MARONITES._

Besides all these there is also a sort of Christians, who first after _Maro_ the Heretic were call’d _Maronites_; who believed that there is but one Nature, Understanding, and Work in Christ, according to the opinion of _Macharius_ the Heretic, whom he followeth diligently; but since they have by degrees left this, and are return’d to the Popish religion again. And although they are still of it, yet they give the Sacrament in both kinds to the lay-men, as almost all other nations do, according to the words of the institution of our Lord Christ. In all other points they follow the _Roman_ religion more than any other nation. Their Priests wear over their cloaths black hair vestments. They live for the most part in _Syria_, but chiefly upon the promontory of mount _Libanus_, whereupon they have a monastery within a day’s journey of _Tripoli_, call’d _Our Lady_’s, which is situated underneath a large rock, wherein their Patriarch dwelleth, whom they respect very much, and kiss his hands with their knees bended, _&c._ whereof I have made mention here before. The Patriarchs are still to this day chosen by the commons, and afterwards confirmed by the Pope; and so this (when he after the decease of his predecessor, came into a dispute with one of his competitors concerning the election) did presently, unknown to his adversary, go to _Rome_, and so obtained in person the patriarchal sea from the Pope.

The common people are in their shape and habits so like unto the _Surians_, and their neighbours the _Arabians_, that except by their turbants none can know them from each other. They are a couragious and war-like people, very well provided with guns and other arms, as well as their confederates the _Trusci_; and because they are not subject, nor pay any contribution unto the _Turkish_ Sultan, therefore they still keep their bells and other privileges.

They speak the _Arabian_ language, and their books are also written (as many as I could see of them in their churches) with _Arabian_ characters or letters, which they always kiss with great reverence when they take them up, or lay them down, according to the custom of all other eastern people or nations, as well Heathens as Christians.

They keep a very severe order, and never eat flesh, and on their fasts neither butter nor eggs, but live upon fruits, as beans, peas, _French_-beans, and such other common victuals. But yet if any Merchants, or Pilgrims, come from _Tripoli_, or any other places, they let them want neither for meat nor drink; nay, they shew themselves to every body so benevolent (as I have found it three several times) and civil, that one would wish to stay some time with them. These live not continually in the temple of mount _Calvaria_, but go often thither on pilgrimages.

CHAP. XIX.

_Of the ~Latinists~ or ~Papists~._

The _Latinists_ or _Papists_, living at _Jerusalem_ in the often before-named temple, are Friers of the order of the _Lesser Franciscans_; they chiefly possess the holy Sepulchre of our Lord Jesus Christ, which they keep in very good order, and read their _Hora_’s diligently, wherefore their father stileth himself Guardian of the holy Sepulchre and mount _Sion_. Besides this, they are possessed of more holy places, as at _Bethlehem_ the stable wherein our dear Lord Christ did lie in the manger with the Ox and the Ass; in the mountains of _Judea_, the temple of St _John the Baptist_; in _Bethania_, the Sepulchre wherein _Lazarus_ had lain four days when Christ raised him from the dead, and here and there many others. These, as all know, are dispersed in a great many places and kingdoms; nay, almost thro’ all the world. Their head is the Pope of _Rome_, who pretends to be the Vicegerent of Christ, and taketh upon himself so much power, as to prescribe to all men laws according to his own pleasure, which Christendom finds every day to it’s great grief. Wherefore in the mean while they are grown into so many divisions, idolatry, and ceremonies, that they quite out-do all the before-named nations. But being that they are in these our times so very well described, that, thanks to God, they are very well known to every body, therefore I forbear to write more of them, and will only before I conclude, make mention of these brethren that live at _Jerusalem_, only in a few points, and say that these that live in the monastery at _Jerusalem_ are about twenty in number more or less, according as they go and come, and among them are _Spaniards_, _Italians_, _French-men_ and _Germans_, &c. that commonly are sent thither by Kings and Princes; but being that they have more churches and places in and without _Jerusalem_ to provide for, their Father Guardian distributeth them, sends some to _Bethlehem_ to look after the manger of Christ, others upon the hills of _Judea_; to the mount of _Olives_, and towards _Bethania_, &c. but before all others, always two and two into the temple of mount _Calvaria_, to stay there for fourteen days together. But being that the temple is always lock’d up, that the Priests that are within it may not want for food, as well as others that are with them, therefore three holes, one bigger than the other, are made in the great door of the church, that thro’ them all necessaries of meat and drink may be convey’d to them. Those that are thus lock’d up in the temple, do but look diligently after the holy Sepulchre, and read their _Hora_’s, with singing and praying, and to look after the lamps; but chiefly those that hang in the Sepulchre of Christ to illuminate it. There are about twenty of these lamps, one better and clearer than the other; they belong for the most part to great persons, as Kings and Princes, whereof they have their yearly revenue, that is sent them by their brethren; but chiefly from _Italy_ and the _Italian_ Princes, and the most Catholic King of _Spain_. But from _Germany_, _England_, and also now _Cyprus_ the isle since it hath been taken by the _Turks_, they complain they have nothing as they had in former ages; and the most Christian King of _France_, doth also already begin to forget them, which they have found some years since; and the number of the Pilgrims doth also decrease, which formerly used to flock thither in great numbers, and sometimes to reward them, besides meat and drink, very nobly, which they find very prejudicial to them, seeing they have no revenues of any other lands or the like.

They receive the Pilgrims, that come in to them, very kindly, and treat them very well with meat and drink, and shew them all the holy places, and keep them so long until they have seen every thing to their satisfaction, and are willing to depart.

They are but very meanly cloathed, like unto poor Mendicants; they live very privately, and keep their concerns very close, because of the _Arabian_ horse-men or _Beduins_, that fall upon them daily, and ravage these countries continually, wherefore they are in great danger. When they come, you must at least give them meat and drink, if not other booty, as I saw my own self at _Bethlehem_ when I first arrived there, that twelve horse-men, with guns, arrows, and darts, very well armed, came to the gates of the temple, and they were forced to satisfy them, before they would leave them, and to give them good words besides. So that they are not only sufficiently plagued by them, but also by the Sangiacks and Cadis, the _Turkish_ magistrates at _Jerusalem_, who have continually their eyes over them that are well to pass; for covetousness is so great with them, that if they can but hear of one that hath money, they study night and day, how (if possible they can) they may right or wrong make him punishable. So they lately accused the Eastern Christians falsly, and punish’d them in some hundred ducats; whereat the Bashaw of _Damascus_, under whose command _Jerusalem_ is, did wink, in hopes to have a great snack out of it.

CHAP. XX.

_Of the Knights of the temple of ~Jerusalem~, the Order of the ~Johannites~._

Having made mention of these, I remember still another Order, that is, the _Johannites_, or _Knights Templars of Jerusalem_, which did first begin in the reign of _Baldewin de Burgo_, the second of that name, and the third King of _Jerusalem_. This Order is more secular than divine, and therefore quite differing from all the rest, for they need not to say Mass, nor perform any other devotion; but when they have heard Mass, and said so many _Pater-Nosters_ and _Ave-Marias_, they have sufficiently discharged their office. This Order was first invented by his Holiness the Pope to that end, and endow’d with many privileges, that they might resist and oppose the _Turks_, and that all Infidels and Heretics might by them and their adherents, by force of arms, be driven and routed out of the _Roman_ empire. And that he might promote this design of his more earnestly, he took in those chiefly that were well born, and had great revenues (as Princes, Counts, and other Noblemen). So it hath often happen’d formerly, chiefly when Popery was in a flourishing condition, that along with the Pilgrims, that had a mind to see the holy places, and to go to the Land of Promise, many persons of quality came, moved thereunto out of great zeal, together with them, to see them also, and to take upon them the order of that Knighthood, in the Sepulchre of our Lord Christ, as the proper place for that purpose. And besides that, other considerations there were which moved them to it, _viz._ The high title, and the authority of the place, and great privileges, whereby they hoped to be still preferr’d to greater dignities. Now as every one of them had laid before them to consider these points and articles, which every one must promise and take an oath to keep them strictly, some great and potent men found it so severe and hard, as you may see by that what followeth, that they were not only astonish’d at it, but refused openly to take it upon them. But what is laid before them that are made Knights, and also what ceremonies are used in it, I thought convenient to mention here briefly.

If there be one or more of them ready for it, that have at the instance of the Guardian, according to the ancient custom, been at confession, and also received the Sacrament, _sub una Specie_, under one species, on mount _Calvaria_, they are with great ceremonies conducted from thence into the holy Sepulchre, whither are also convey’d some other things that belong thereunto, _viz._ A fine book, a sword richly tipp’d with gold, with a red velvet girdle, a chain weighing about a hundred _Hungarian_ ducats, whereon hangeth a golden cross of this form and shape, a pair of spurs with red velvet straps, which are laid down one by another upon the altar of the Sepulchre. As soon as the Gentleman cometh into it, they begin immediately to say Mass, and after that they sing without some Latin Psalms. In the mean while the Gentleman lieth down upon his knees in the Sepulchre before the Guardian, until the Friers have done singing. Then the Guardian bids all that stand about, to say _Our Father_ and an _Ave-Maria_, in behalf of the Gentleman that is to be knighted. When this is done, he admonish’d the Gentleman, before he taketh the oath, to consider upon what condition he is admitted there; when this is done, he bids the standers-by pray for him once more, and then admonisheth the Gentleman again, and telleth him also, that hereafter he must be in all things subject and obedient to the _Roman_ church; that he must fight and resist the _Turks_ and _Lutherans_ as Enemies and Heretics, so long as his blood and heart is warm. Then the Guardian asketh him farther, whether he doth receive all these points, (as they are written word by word in that book, and order’d by his Holiness the Pope, and subscribed by his own hand) and whether he will swear by the holy Sepulchre to keep them. Whereupon he consents to it presently, and promiseth with great eagerness and joy to keep it with all his heart, and thanketh God that he hath made him worthy of this blessing, and for having made him capable of it. After this the Monks begin again a long song; and then the Guardian taketh up the three pieces, the chain, sword and spurs, and puts them on him, and so adorneth him as beginning Knight. At last he taketh also the book, and puts it before him, and telleth him once more what he is about, and what he is going to swear. When he hath understood it, he kneeleth down again, and puts out his two fingers, which the Guardian puts upon the red cross in the book, and readeth to him the oath; the contents whereof are these:

_First_, That upon his conscience he do swear there to these following words, Not with a false heart, but that he doth confess out of zeal, with great eagerness, and with a clean heart, and also swear by God’s Omnipotence, the See of _Rome_, and his Holiness the Pope, that he is a good Catholic, educated in that religion from his infancy to that present hour; and that he never will go from it so long as he liveth, but will always defend and protect the _Roman_ church against the _Lutheran_, and their adherents, with words and deeds, so long as his heart is warm; and that he will never be in a place where any evil is taught, or spoke of his Holiness the Pope. _Secondly_, That he doth swear by God’s Omnipotence, and the Pope at _Rome_, and the Cross of _Jerusalem_, that he is a nobleman in the fifth generation, both by Father and Mother. _Thirdly_, He sweareth also, that he hath so good income that he need not to follow merchandizing, or any other trade, nor to borrow money, or to ask others for help, but that he hath so much that he can live upon his revenues, and keep three horses besides from year to year, for the service of the church of _Rome_; nay, if necessity should urge, and others should rise against the _Roman_ church to molest it, that he will then always be willing and ready, besides the three horses, to assist her with all his utmost power. He must also promise that he will so long as he shall live, diligently attend at Mass, and hear four or five every day, and also that he will keep the fasts zealously, and eat neither flesh, nor butter, nor cheese, nor eggs, on them; and also that he will confess and receive the Sacrament once a month, or every six weeks at farthest, and send his family at least once a year in Lent-time to do the same. And also that he will not forget, to the honour and encrease of the said church, to remember her in his last will; that he will protect and provide for the widows and fatherless; that he will maintain the Friers and Nuns, and their monasteries; and if by the Seculars any thing should be taken away from them, that he will not conceal it, but endeavour to the utmost of his power, as if it were his own, to recover it again. That he will assist those that would willingly turn _Roman_ Catholics, and endeavour to bring them over; but that he will keep none in his service, nor any ways assist them that do not firmly adhere unto it. Then there is also inserted, That he will say forty nine _Pater-Nosters_ and as many _Ave-Marias_ every day, and visit his Holiness the Pope once a year, and come into the seven church processions and perform his office; and also assist at the Sacraments and other ceremonies with due reverence; and also respect and honour the holy water. At length, to conclude, he is forbid to talk idly, to be drunk, to live loosely, and to commit sodomy, that he, being knighted, may not lead a disorderly life, and give to others ill example.

When then the Guardian hath read the oaths that are written upon parchment out of the book, the Chevallier kneeleth down again, and when he bendeth his face down, and leaneth with both his arms on the book, which lieth on the altar-stone of the Sepulchre, the Guardian bids the Friers and Monks again to pray; then he draweth out the sword, and maketh with the flat side of it three crosses upon his head and shoulders, saying: At the command of God, and the See of _Rome_, and for the encrease of the church of _Rome_, I create you _N. N._ now a member of the Roman church, a Knight, in the name of the _Father, Son, and Holy Ghost_. And farther he adds: That in the room of his Holiness the Pope of _Rome_, he doth absolve him of all his sins; and that he doth also give him leave, and command him, by the oath he hath taken to his Holiness the Pope, to wear the usual red cross, as a sign whereby he may be known, publickly in his coat of arms, and on his cloaths. Also if he please, to put him in mind, as often as he shall look upon it, what he hath sworn, and to keep it the firmer. When all this is over, and they have pray’d again, the Guardian wisheth him joy of his Knighthood, and rejoyceth with the whole convent that he is come to this acknowledgement, and is become a true member of the _Roman Catholic_ church: that he and all his brethren will always pray for his long life, and that God may keep him in health, to the comfort of the See of _Rome_. Immediately approach to him all the Monks, while he is still standing in his ornaments, and call him Brother; and when they have also wish’d him joy one after the other, the Guardian beginneth the _Te Deum_, &c. and then he taketh all the ornaments away again from him. Afterwards he leadeth him about with the Vicar in procession to the holy places, to invest him also in every one of them; when that is done they go to dinner.

Altho’ in former years every body was not presently admitted (as you may see by what hath been here before-said) except he were a Nobleman for several generations; yet in our time it is come to that pass, that they admit every body to it without any strict examination, that can pay the money, which amounts to eleven or twelve ducats. Nay, every Pilgrim that doth intend to take upon him that Knighthood, doth pray and persuade his companions by the way that they would do the same, that he may in case of necessity still have some friends to assist him, for his Holiness wants champions, because he taketh upon him the Civil Government as well as the Ecclesiastick, that when they can defend and prove their religion no longer by Scripture, they may defend and uphold it by power and strength of arms. Now as the Guardian, according to ancient custom, gives attestates to every Pilgrim concerning their pilgrimage, under his great Seal, that they may have it to shew, so he giveth also one to the Knight of the Order of St _John_ of _Jerusalem_, and bids them to carry the letter themselves in person to _Rome_, to shew it to the Pope. This is sufficient of the temple of mount _Calvaria_, and it’s holy places, and the Christians that are dwelling there, of their chapels, and of their errors.

CHAP. XXI.

_A short description of some Places, Hills, Valleys, &c. that lye near and about ~Jerusalem~. Of the mount of ~Olives~, and it’s holy places._

I having hitherto briefly described the situation of _Jerusalem_, and also related what buildings and holy places are still in being, and to be seen there, after it hath sustain’d so many wars, assaults and desolations, I cannot but speak of some adjacent places before I conclude. And so I begin with the mount of Olives, which lieth towards the east before the Temple-hill, over-against the Sheeps-gate, on the other side of the brook of _Cedron_, as the holy Prophet _Zachariah_ xiv. 4. testifieth, when he saith, ‘And his feet shall stand in that day upon the mount of _Olives_, which is before _Jerusalem_ on the east.’ This mount is about a quarter of a league, or as St _Luke_ saith, A Sabbath day’s journey, distant from _Jerusalem_, pretty high, rough and stony, full of pleasant Olive-trees, from whence it hath it’s name, and also others; as Fig-trees, Lemon, and Orange, and Citron, and _Siliqua_-trees, by the inhabitants call’d _Charnubi_, Turpentine-trees, and Palm-trees; the like I have seen but few, _&c._ There are also some good herbs, _viz._ a strange _Origanum_, _Tragoriganum_, _Roman Mother of Time_, _Spicanardi_ and a peculiar sort of _Coniza_, &c.

At the foot of the mount they shew us first a great church, between the rivulet _Cedron_ and the valley of _Josaphat_, which was so cover’d with earth, that you could see nothing of it but the entry, and before it without a large place three steps deep. This church was build by Queen _Helena_, mother of _Constantine_ the Emperor, and call’d, the Sepulchre of our Lady the Mother of God; to go into it, you must go down forty four steps. Within it towards the right, there is a small chapel, where they say our Lady was buried; and therefore, by the benevolence of the Pope, there is distributed and given to the Pilgrims, full forgiveness of all transgressions and punishments for ever. Some are of opinion, that this church did formerly stand even with the ground, and that after the devastation of _Jerusalem_, when part of the valley of _Josaphat_ was fill’d up, it was cover’d thus over. This church stands (as _Nicephorus_ saith in his eighth book and the thirtieth chapter) on that place where the village _Gethsemane_ stood, whereby the garden was whither our dear Lord Christ did, just before his passion, go with his eleven disciples, after he had eaten the Paschal Lamb with them, and given thanks, according to his usual custom, over the rivulet _Cedron_, to regain us that which was formerly lost by our ancestors in the garden. There he left his eight disciples, while he went to pray, as the Scripture tells us; when he took with him _Peter_, _James_ and _John_, the two sons of _Zebedeus_, and began to mourn, to quake, and to tremble, and said to them, ‘My soul is sorrowful unto death, stay here, watch with me, and pray that you enter not into temptation;’ and he withdrew from them about a stones cast, where he kneeled down, fell three times on his face, and pray’d to his heavenly Father, where he wrestled with death, and sweat a bloody sweat, so that an angel must come down from heaven at last to comfort him. This place is underneath a great rock that hangeth over a great cave, just at the entry of the valley of _Josaphat_.

This valley is still, where it cometh down from the mount of _Olives_, pretty deep, and is call’d by the holy Prophet _Joel_, chap. iii. 14, _the valley of Judgment_; which words of _Joel_ give us to understand, that the Lord, as he was (when he first came upon the earth) in this valley taken prisoner, bound and carry’d away to the place of his bitter suffering, crucifixion and dying, so he shall in his second and glorious coming, appear in this valley of _Judgment_ again to judge all people of the whole earth, _&c._ that then the impious shall see whom they have pierced. _Zacharias_ speaks also of it in the above-mention’d place.

As you go from thence to the mount of _Olives_, you see below towards your left hand, near unto the bridge of the river _Cedron_, an old square building like unto a steeple. This altho’ it is believed to this day not only by Christians, but also by _Turks_ and _Moors_, to be the grave of _Absalom_, as you shall see them sling stones into it as they go by, to revenge his undutifulness shewn to his father King _David_, yet notwithstanding he was not bury’d there, as we read in the second book of _Samuel_ xviii. 17. ‘And they took _Absalom_ and cast him into a great pit in the wood, and laid a very great heap of stones upon him.’ Yet for all this, when _Absalom_ was alive (as you may farther read in the before-mention’d chapter) he erected a column in the king’s dale, for he said, ‘I have no son, therefore this shall be for a remembrance of my name,’ and call’d this pillar after his name; and it is still call’d to this day _Absalom_’s place. Of this pillar writes also _Josephus_ in the seventh book of his Antiquities and the tenth chapter, saying, And _Absalom_ did erect a kingly column of marble in the valley (_Genes._ xiv. it is call’d the King’s valley) that is two furlongs from _Jerusalem_. Just by this pillar beginneth a very steep foot-path, which parts a little above it into two, one whereof goeth southward, at the bottom of the mount of Olives towards _Bethania_ and _Jericho_, &c. down thro’ the valley that is made by this and the other part of the hill, call’d _Mashit_ in the fourth of _Kings_, chap. xxiii. but the other goeth over the height of the mount of Olives out by _Bethania_ to the house of _Mary_ and _Martha_. A little higher on this hill did our Saviour sit, over-against the temple, when he foretold his disciples that shewed him the glorious buildings thereof, ‘That not one stone should remain upon another that should not be thrown down;’ and did also tell them at length, the terrible and prodigious signs, that should come to pass before the desolation of _Jerusalem_, and the end of the world. To this day we still see into the _Turkish_ mosque, with it’s large paved court-yard, over the walls thereof so perfectly, that you may distinguish almost the persons that walk there. From thence, when you go up to the hill, which is very steep and rough, there is a large plain, from whence our dear Lord Jesus Christ was taken up, and ascended into Heaven, as you may see by the words of the holy Evangelist St _Luke_, in his first chapter of the _Acts_, vers. 9. where he saith, ‘And he was taken up, and a cloud received him out of their sight,’ and verse 12. ‘Then return’d they unto _Jerusalem_ from the mount call’d Olivet, which is from _Jerusalem_ a Sabbath-day’s journey.’ On this place, as _Nicephorus_ mentioneth, did Queen _Helena_ also afterwards build a stately church, which now is so decay’d, that there is no more to be seen of it but a new built chapel in a large yard surrounded with a wall. Just by it on a hill of the mount towards the north and _Galilea_, there is an old and decay’d building, which was formerly (as my guide inform’d me) an inn for the _Galileans_, where commonly did take up those that went to _Jerusalem_ from _Galilea_. Wherefore they are of opinion, that some of them were there in the time of Christ, that also were spectators of his glorious ascension, as it doth appear by the words of the two Angels, that spoke to them, and said, ‘You men of _Galilea_, why stand you here gazing up into heaven, &c.’ But if you duely consider these words, you will find, as you read it in the _Acts_ ii. 7. that the Apostles themselves were these _Galileans_, where it is written: ‘Behold, are not all those which speak _Galileans_? and how hear we every man in our own tongue, &c.’ So did also the holy Angels speak to the Apostles after the same manner, and call’d them _Galileans_, rather to bring them, as Elders of the Christian church, off their worldly thoughts, which they had conceived in their hearts, of the restoring of the worldly regiment or kingdom again, which they should have left, and instead thereof look’d upon the heavenly kingdom, whereinto Christ was ascended, into the kingdom of God, whereinto they were received as members, which is a more spiritual kingdom, that doth not consist in outward things, eating and drinking, _&c._, but in a clean and faithful heart. After this they ought to strive, and to make it their only business, that it may be notify’d to all men, and be spread abroad all the world over.

From the top of the mountain, you have a prospect over all the holy land, towards the north over the valley _Josaphat_, which is just at the bottom of the hill, into the country of _Galilea_; towards the east, over some naked mountains, down into a large field which extends itself to the Dead Sea, that is, as _Josephus_ mentioneth, twenty nine leagues long, and fifteen broad, whereof the Scripture maketh mention, chiefly the books of _Macchabees_, and in the second of _Samuel_, chap. xv. where it is written, That when King _David_ did fly from his son _Absolon_, he tarry’d in the plain fields until he had intelligence of him. In these is still remaining the pillar of salt that _Lot_’s wife was turn’d into, when she, against the command of God, turn’d to look back to the city. The famous Historiographer _Flavius Josephus_ did in his time see it in his own person; and the Pilgrims visit it to this day, and beat off of it some small pieces, as they do every where, chiefly in holy places, and yet it is found still whole, and without any defect; which did put some Pilgrims, that went to the Dead Sea, into great admiration. Now that they might be certain and be assured of the truth of the common assertion, That whatsoever was broken off of this pillar, was always found whole again; they did, chiefly one of them, (as I was informed by one that had been there before) knock off a whole hand, and took it away with them. Now after they had been at the end of their journey, and came back again, and went to look for it on purpose, they found it whole again, and exactly like unto the old one as it had been before. Farther beyond the plain fields, at the other side of _Jordan_ that runs thro’ it, there appear the _Arabian_ mountains, that were inhabited by _Ruben_, _Gad_, and half the Tribe of _Manasse_; they are very high, and afford very good pasture for the cattle; some among them were much noted and famous of old, as the mountain of _Seir_ beyond the Dead Sea, mount _Garizim_ and _Ebal_, whereof is made mention in _Deuteronomy_ chap. xxvii. and also chap. xxxii. of mount _Abarim_, _Nebo_, and the point of _Pisgah_, situated in the land of the _Moabites_, over-against _Jericho_, which together with all the adjacent places are very well seen; as well as towards the west the rivulet _Cedron_, and the situation and largeness of the city of _Jerusalem_. After we had look’d about sufficiently, we went down to the place of the village _Bethphage_, which is at the other side on the ascent of mount Olivet, and belongeth to the Priests of _Jerusalem_; this is so ruin’d, that now-a-days there is nothing left of it save only a few foundation-walls. Into this did Christ send his disciples, to loosen the she-ass and the colt which was ty’d to the door in the road, and to bring them to him, whereon our Lord Christ also did ride to _Jerusalem_ five days before he suffered, being the true Saviour.

Before it the mount is pretty plain, and is very rough and rocky, wherein _Bethania_ lieth on the right hand upon one ascent, of the other part of mount Olivet, as is before said, but the village of _Mary_ and _Martha_ (whereof you read in the Gospel of St _John_, chap. xi.) is farther out by the beginning of the road towards _Jericho_, which is still very dangerous, because of the _Arabian_ vagabonds. In these habitations did our dear Saviour oftentimes take up his lodgings with them; and in the same did _Mary_ the sister of _Lazarus_, and _Martha_ anoint the feet of our Lord Christ with a precious ointment of _Nard_, and dry them again with her hair; in our days they are quite desolated, and nothing left thereof but ruins. Near it as you come back again to _Bethania_, in the plain lieth a large stone, where also you may see the above-mention’d places very plain; where they say that _Martha_ did meet the Lord, when he came up the steps, and rested on the mount, and talked with him of the resurrection of her brother, before her sister _Mary_ did know any thing of the arrival of the Lord. Wherefore she went back again into their village, to call her sister _Mary_ secretly, who, when she heard that our Lord Christ was near at hand, did hasten and went to him, for he was not yet come into the village, and fell down at his feet, and said weeping, ‘Lord, if thou hadst been here, my brother had not dy’d;’ then he groaned in his spirit, and enquired presently after the place where _Lazarus_ his dear friend was laid, and went with them to it to _Bethania_ that village, distant a league, (about an hours going,) or as the Scripture saith: about fifteen furlongs from _Jerusalem_ on an ascent; wherein was a small chapel, and underneath it a deep cover’d cave, wherein _Lazarus_ had lain four days, as you may also see in the before quoted chapter, where it is in the thirty eighth verse said: ‘It was a cave, and a stone lay upon it.’ When the _Franciscan_ Friers would go to the grave of _Lazarus_, they were forced to go through this village, and a great concourse of the poor inhabitants used to flock about them, and did surround them, and detained them till they gave them something to be distributed amongst them; that they might evade this trouble, and not be necessitated to go thro’ this village, when they go to the grave, they have made behind at the other side on the height another avenue, but they do not escape the _Mobile_ for all that, for they meet them notwithstanding, chiefly, if they know or have intelligence, that any Pilgrims came along with them to see the grave; so we did find it, for they came and kept us lock’d up in it so long, till we had given them so much as did satisfy them. As you come out again from _Bethania_ towards _Jerusalem_, the Friers shew an old building, where _Simon_ the Leper did dwell, in which when Christ was at the table, _Mary_ the sister of _Lazarus_ did come, and did break again, yet several days after, a glass of precious unguent of _Nard_ over his head, which fill’d the whole house with a fragrant scent; which pleased Christ so well, that he took her part against his disciples, and commended her proceedings so highly, that it is recorded to her perpetual memory. From thence if you come nearer into the valley between thee mounts of Olives, there is still to be seen several fig-trees whereabouts Christ did curse one of that kind, because he found no fruit thereon when he was hungry. Just at the coming out of the valley near unto the steps of mount Olivet, you see the city again, but chiefly the mount of the temple and gate where you go up, walled up in the new wall. From this valley, when our Lord Christ came in sight, and came down the mount Olivet, the people, as he came riding along, cry’d, saying, ‘Hosanna, to the Son of David, _&c._’ and a little after when he came nearer unto it, he lamented with tears also their future misery, and the terrible destruction of the town, and went in from thence towards the golden gate into the temple and drove out the buyers and sellers.

CHAP. XXII.

_Of the ~Bethlehem~, the mountains of ~Judea~, and their famous places. Where also is made mention of my returning back from ~Jerusalem~ to ~Tripoli~._

_Bethlehem_, formerly called _Ephrata_, is situated towards the south, twenty furlongs, or a _German_ mile distant from _Jerusalem_. The nearest way to it, you go through the gate of _Hebron_, and come to the right by the upper mote, and the bloody field, up the steps over mount _Gihon_, where just before you see a cistern with good fresh water near the path, made of white stones, and well prepared; near which the star did appear again unto the three wise men of the eastern countries, and led them into _Bethlehem_. Near it there groweth a Turpentine-tree larger and higher than any that ever I saw elsewhere in my life. Farther, about half way, you pass over a hill, at the top whereof you may see both towns, _Jerusalem_ and _Bethlehem_. Before you is a large valley, which, altho’ it be rocky, yet it is fruitful both of corn and wine. In it, towards the right hand near the road, is an acre called the _Cicer_ field, which had it’s name (as I was informed) from the following transaction. It is said, that when _Christ_ went by at a certain time, and saw a man that was sowing Cicers, he did speak to him kindly, and asked him what he was a sowing there, the man answered scornfully, and said, _He sowed small stones._ _Then let it be_, said our Lord, _that thou reap the same seed thou sowest._ So they say, that at harvest time, he found instead of the Cicer-pease, nothing but small pebbles in shape, and colour and bigness, like unto them exactly. Now whether there be any thing of truth in it or no I cannot affirm; but this I must say, that there are to this day, such stones found in this field. For, as we went by, some of us went into it, and did gather a great many of them that were in bigness, shape and colour, so like unto these Cicers (by the _Arabians_ called _Ommos_, and in _Latin_, _Cicer arietinum_) that we could hardly distinguish them from natural ones.

Hard by it, you shall see still some old ruins of old stones, where first _Abraham_ the Patriarch did build a tent as you read in _Genesis_ xii. 8. And he removed from thence unto a mountain on the east of _Bethel_, and pitched his tent, having _Bethel_ on the west, and _Hai_ on the east. _Senacherib_, the King of _Assyria_, when he went before _Jerusalem_, did come into this valley with all his might and power; and had by the angel of the Lord in one nights time, one hundred and eighty-five thousand men slain; and still to this day, there are two great holes to be seen, wherein they flung the dead bodies; one whereof is hard by the road towards _Bethlehem_, the other towards the right hand over-against old _Bethel_; which town fell to the children of _Benjamin_, and is called still to this day _Bethisella_, and is situated half a league farther towards the west, at the foot of the hill, in a very fruitful country. There did _Jacob_ the Patriarch when he fled from his brother _Esau_, see in his sleep the ladder which reached up into heaven, whereon the holy angels ascended and descended, wherefore he erected there a stone for a mark, and called the place _Bethel_, which was called _Luz_ before, as you may read in _Genesis_ xxviii. As you come nearer to _Bethlehem_, you see the grave of _Rachel_ at your right hand near the road, which _Jacob_ did erect there, when his wife died in labour with _Benjamin_, as you read in _Genesis_ xxxv. 16. ‘And they journeyed from _Bethel_, and there was but a little way to come to _Ephrath_:’ and verse 18. ‘And it came to pass as her soul was in departing (for she died) that she called his name _Benoni_; but his father called him _Benjamin_; and _Rachel_ died, and was buried in the way _Ephrath_, which is _Bethlehem_. And _Jacob_ set a pillar upon her grave; that is the pillar of _Rachel_’s grave unto this day.’ Before you come quite thither, there is just by without it, on the left, a good rich cistern, which is deep and wide. Wherefore the people that go to dip water, are provided with small leathern buckets and a line, as is usual in these countries; and so the Merchants that go in carravans through great desarts into far countries, provide themselves also with these, because in these countries you find more cisterns or wells, than springs that lie high. This was formerly under the gates of _Bethlehem_, whereof King _David_ longed to drink; wherefore his three champions did break into the camp of the _Philistines_, and did dip some water out of the well, and brought it to the King; but the King would not drink of it for certain reasons, as you may read in _Samuel_ chap. xxiii, and in I. _Chronicles_ chap. xii. From thence we went by the path of the mount into _Bethlehem_ the town of _David_, where he was born and anointed King by the Prophet _Samuel_; it lieth upon an ascent, it’s buildings, town walls and towers are so decayed, that now it is quite open, and nothing at all to be seen, except the well and monastery, but ruined cottages.