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Chapter XVI: Front Matter (16)

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The _Ibex_, or _Steinbock_, a swift nimble animal, whose horns are heavy and long for the bulk of the creature, frequents the rocky mountains; there is also the _Strepsiceros_, a sort of _Gazella_.

The bird call’d _Merops_ and _Apiastrum_, or _Beeater_, a sort of _Woodpecker_, is common in the island, catches Bees, and feeds on them in the air. The _Attagen_ and _Francolino_, as also a white large Partridge, frequent the mountains; Eagles, Vultures, and Falcons build on the rocks.

The fish call’d _Scarus_, which I never observed in the _Euxine_, _Propontis_, or any other part of the Mediterranean-sea, is common on the coasts of _Candy_, and is generally taken at the same season that the inhabitants rake and gather their sweet _Labdanum_, or _Ladanum_; the only bait for this fish is made of the leaves of a _Phaseolus_, which they swallow very greedily.

I observed only three kinds of Serpents in this island, the first is call’d by the country people _Ophis_; the second _Ochendra_; the third _Tephloti_; but none of these is venemous; I saw one bite and draw blood, but without any harm. Hence the ancients might say, that _Crete_ nourish’d no poisonous animal.

The _Phalangium_ is common up and down; it weaves webbs like other Spiders, to catch it’s prey, as Butterflies and Flies, and other insects. It lays about sixty eggs, carries and hatches them under it’s belly; it fights much with the _Ichneumon_ Wasp.

The stone call’d _Dactylus Idæus_, or _Belemnites_, erroneously taken and sold for the _Lapis Lyncis_, is plentiful on mount _Ida_.

The _Vinum malvaticum_, or _Pramnium_, as also the _Moschatell_, are made here, and transported up and down.

For a full catalogue of such vegetables as grow in the island of _Candy_, together with their synonymous names and places, the reader may be pleased to consult Mr _Ray_’s _Collection of Exotic Catalogues_, publish’d this year at _London_, and annex’d to the end of this Second Volume, amongst which the _Cretic_ plants are all drawn together out of _Bellonius_, _Honorio Belli_, _Alpinus_, _Pona_, &c.

CHAP. II.

_A Description of mount ~Athos~, commonly call’d ~Monte Santo~, by Mr ~Belon~._

This famous mountain so celebrated by the ancients, stands in a peninsula or promontory of _Macedonia_, stretching out into the _Ægæan_-sea; it’s shadow reaches to _Lemnos_ or _Stalamine_; it is inhabited only by monks, call’d _Caloyers_, who never marry, tho’ other priests of the _Greek_ church do. These _Caloyers_ abstain from all flesh, and even from sanguineous fishes in Lent-time; they live very hardly and severely; their ordinary dish is pickled Olives, not green like ours, but black and ripe, dry’d without pickle. There are about six thousand of these Monastics, that inhabit several places of this mountain, on which are seated twenty four large old monastries, encompassed with high and strong walls, for defence against pyrates and other robbers, tho’ they who spare nobody are kind and indulgent to the _Caloyers_.

In these monastries the ceremonies of the _Greek_ church are most diligently and strictly observed, and these _Caloyers_ or monks are the most reverenced of any belonging to that communion; the _Turks_ themselves will often send them alms, being taken with the sanctity of their lives; and the monks who inhabit mount _Sinai_, mount _Libanos_, the desarts of St _Anthony_, _Jerusalem_, and other holy places, are always the more valued and respected, if they have lived before on mount _Athos_, which is in as great esteem and veneration amongst the _Greeks_ as _Rome_ among the _Latins_. This place is under the jurisdiction of the Patriarch of _Constantinople_, who pays about twelve thousand ducats _per Anum_ to the Grand Signior, upon the account of the _Europæan Greek_ church. The Patriarchs of _Alexandria_, _Damascus_, _Antioch_, &c. give also their particular sums to the _Turk_, who gives liberty of religion to all that pay tribute.

Of these six thousand religious, or _Caloyers_ of mount _Athos_, none lead idle lives, as most of the monks in other places do, but every one hath his daily employment; some labour with the ax, spade, and sickle, dress their vineyards, cut trees, build fishing-vessels; others carry sacks full of provision, bread, and onions; some spin and weave, their distaff being made of the _Arundo Donax_, and their spindle of the herb call’d _Attractilis_; some are Taylors, Bricklayers, and Carpenters; they are generally cloath’d like hermits.

This mountain is about three days journey long, and may be seen about thirty leagues off at sea; the monastries are at some distance; they give such provisions as they have _gratis_ to all travellers whatsoever, as pickled or dry’d olives, raw onions, salted beans, bisket, salted fish, sometimes fresh, for they often go a fishing, their vessels or boats being cut without great difficulty out of the thick trunks of Plane-trees; their nets, for want of Cork, are supported with _Gourds_, as they are in the _Propontis_ with the bark of _Pines_. The chief monastry is call’d _Ageas Laura_, and fronts the isle of _Lemnos_, it contains about three hundred _Caloyers_ or _Greek_ monks; those that look towards the continent of _Macedonia_, have all their peculiar names, and contain some two hundred, others one hundred and fifty _Caloyers_. Formerly there were good _Greek_ manuscripts in these monastries, but now none at all, unless of Theology; no Poets, no Historians, no Philosophers, not one of the monks learned, of six thousand scarce above two or three know how to write or read, so degenerated and depress’d is the _Greek_ nation at present; they use wax candles and lamps in their churches, as also statues, pictures and bells; they have no poultry, pigeons, or any other birds; nor sheep nor cows, nor goats; because they abstain from all flesh; they hunt no game, tho’ there is great variety and plenty, only fish near the shore. I observed abundance of those birds, call’d _Molliceps_, a sort of Chaffinch, as also of the _Torquilla_, or _Wrynecks_. No people have the privilege of living on this mountain but these _Caloyers_.

Mount _Athos_ abounds with many rare plants, but because many of them are already mentioned to grow near mound _Ida_ in _Candia_; I shall industriously omit to name such of them in this place. I observed here the _Apion_ (a sort of knobbed _Spurge_) which the _Caloyers_ themselves know to be purgative. _Hippoglossum_ or Horse-tongue, _Veratrum nigrum_, or black Hellebore, common in the valleys; Beach, Hornbean, Service, Oleaster, Myrtles, Oleander with a red flower, several Bindweeds running up to the high tops of the Plane-trees, which here vie in height with the Cedars of _Libanus_, or the Firs of _Olympus_.

There is a sort of _Cantharides_ on this hill call’d _Buprestis_, of a yellowish colour, very fœtid, feeding on brambles, succory, nettle, conyza, and other herbs; if any beast swallow this insect, they swell and die. There is a sort of Cray-fish in the fresh rivulets, which the _Caloyers_ eat raw, and I myself found the taste of them very sweet and pleasant; they do not crawl up from the sea, but breed in the streams above. There is a plant in the valleys call’d _Elegia_, perhaps a species of _Arundo_, whose branches serve instead of writing-pens, for neither the _Turks_ nor _Greeks_ know the use of quills.

The _Caloyers_ brought us several things to eat, as rocket, roots of smallage, the bulbs of leeks, cucumbers, onions, garlic, which we eat without either oyl or vinegar; black olives, course bisket and wine; they also regaeld us with salted and dry’d fish, _Sepia_’s, _Polypi_, and _Loligines_, Crabbs, and other crustaceous and testaceous animals. These monks had rather die than eat flesh upon any occasion.

We ascended to the very top of mount _Athos_, where we could not long endure the cold; we saw from thence many adjacent provinces and islands, as _Cassandria_, _Scyton_, _Lemnos_, _Thasson_, _Samothracen_, _Imbron_, &c. In our descent we observed Firrs, and Pitch-trees, which differ’d a little from those of mount _Ida_, for in these the cones adher’d so close to the branches, they would not separate; besides, these were very smooth, whereas the others were scabrous.

There being no haven under this mountain, the _Caloyers_ are forced to draw their fishing-vessels ashore, and place them behind iron gates, lest the pyrates should set fire to them. They exchange their grapes, olives, figgs, onions, garlic, beans, and legumes with the mariners, who bring them some wheat; they have mills on the streams of the hill. They press an oil out of their Bay-berries, which they send into _Wallachia_, _Bulgaria_, and _Servia_, where it is sold. They take abundance of the long Oyster or _Langouste_.

The multitude of springs and streams, the variety of herbage and ever-greens, the woods and pleasant shoar, do all render mount _Athos_ one of the most charming places in the world.

CHAP. III.

_An account of a journey by land from mount ~Athos~, to ~Constantinople~; wherein the gold and silver mines of ~Macedonia~, together with many antiquities and natural rarieties are described._

Leaving mount _Athos_, we travelled in two days to _Saloniki_, formerly called _Thessalonica_, and in two days more we reached _Siderocapsa_, the _Chrysites_ of the ancients, where now the _Turks_, and many other nations work the rich ores, which afford yearly a very considerable treasure, and make the place much frequented and resorted to. ’Tis situated amongst the valleys, at the foot of high mountains, and yields monthly to the Grand Signior, for his share only, above 18000 gold ducats, and sometimes 30000 clear of all disbursements. There are about five or six hundred furnaces dispers’d up and down these mountains, which abound with great varieties of _Pyrites_, _Marchasites_, and other ores, which they work in a different manner from the _Germans_ and _Spaniards_: Their furnaces and work-houses are all placed on the sides of rivulets, for all their bellows play with wheels turn’d by streams of water. The white foot of the chimneys is called _Spodus_ and _Pompholix_, as it differs in colour, of which above ten pounds may be gathered every week. They separate the lead from the gold and silver by particular fusions, then the silver from the gold by _Aqua fortis_: Out of the gold, they coin their ducats, which are very flexible, and esteem’d the purest gold in the world, always clean and resplendent.

From these metallic mountains we saw mount _Athos_, and great part of _Macedonia_, which appear’d hilly. I observed here two serpents never seen before by me; the _Greeks_ called them _Sapidi_ or _Sapiti_, which comes near to _Seps_, or _Sips_. The inhabitants of _Syderocapsa_ gather abundance of the _Rhus_ or _Sumach_, which they use in preparing their skins, and tanning their leather, which the _Ægyptians_ do with the pods of their _Acacia_, the _Natolians_ with the cups of the acorns of a dwarf Oak called _Esculus_, the _Illyrians_ with a black Myrtle (perhaps the _Rhus Myrtifolia_), the _French_ with Oak bark, the _Lesbians_ and _Phrygians_ with the bark of the _Picea_.

The workmen use several machines in working and drawing up the ores, according as the veins lie: These works employ above 6000 men.

In a lake near _Syderocapsa_, I took notice of several fishes, as one called _Laros_ by the natives (because the Gulls feed much upon it) by the _Latins Gania_, by the _French_, _Mouatte_, by those of _Diepe_ and _Newport_, _Marue_. Another called _Claria_, by those of _Lyons_, _Lotte_; by the _Parisans_, _Barbotte_. Also the _Liparis_, the Perch, young Mullets, _&c._

In the adjacent country, there are fallow Deer, Buffalo’s, wild Boar, Goats, red Deer, and our roe Deer, Porcupines, Urchins, Wolfs, Foxes, Hares; the _Chamois_, or _Rupicapra_; the _Tragelaphus_ different from the _Hippelaphus_.

Leaving _Syderocapsa_, we spent two days in getting to _Cavalla_, anciently called _Boucephala_, whereas we might have gone by sea in half a day: In this journey we saw the river _Strymon_, and on it Swans, and other birds like Pelicans: At the mouth of this river, are seen the remains of a place called by the natives _Chrysopolis_, tho’ _Pliny_ puts it not far from _Chalcedon_. We saw _Ceres_ the _Cranon_ of the antients; afterwards _Tricala_, and so by the side of the mountain _Despota_, thro’ a great plain to _Philippi_, near which are many villages and several mines. We observed hereabouts Misseltoe on the Oak, as also in many other places of _Macedonia_, where they make birdlime. The ground is very much over-run with the _Paliurus_ and _Rhamnus_.

The ruins of _Philippi_, are about two days journey from _Trica_ or _Tricala_, and _Philippi_ scarce three more from _Philippolis_. These were great roads in the time of the _Roman_ empire, now heaps of rubbish, and sepulchres of marble with inscriptions. The isle of _Tasso_ is but six hours distant, and from thence this great quantity of white marble might have easily been fetch’d. The magnificence of _Philippi_ may be guess’d at from the number of these noble monuments and inscriptions, from the fair amphitheatre still entire with it’s marble seats; ’Tis not oval, as those at _Otricoli_ and _Rome_, but spherical, as those at _Verona_ and _Nismes_: There are also _Doric_ and _Ionic_ pillars, with many statues belonging to the temple of _Divus Claudius_. At _Cavalla_, or _Boucephala_, there are still great cisterns of hardened Cement (as at _Baiæ_) and _Aquæducts_.

Departing from _Cavalla_, we pass’d by mount _Hæmus_, over the river _Nesus_, and came to _Bouron_ on the salt lake of _Bisto_, near a moist plain, full of _Cytisus_, _Halimus_, _&c._ as about _Philippi_. Here are taken great quantity of Dace, or Dare, which they pickle as we do Herrings, as also smoak and dry them. The fishing on this lake is very considerable, for from hence they supply many distant places. About six hours from _Bouron_, we came to _Commercina_, where they sell great variety of provisions; from thence we went to _Cypsella_, where they make Alum by gently calcining the stone, and letting it dissolve afterwards in the air by the dews and rains, and then boiling and crystallizing the impregnated water. In this journey we saw many old _Roman_ highways pav’d with great stones. We passed the _Marisca_, of old _Hebrus_, in a ferry, and came to _Vire_; here they wash some gold out of the sand, but are often forced to use Quicksilver in the separation. The water of _Hebrus_ is very cold in the middle of summer, and the banks are set with Tamarisks; King’s-fishers build they nests in holes on the sides, they make them of the bones and scales of little fishes. The natives hereabout often leave their habitations to work in harvest time: Their sickles differ from ours, and their corn is not thresh’d but trodden with cattle. In this journey we found great variety and plenty of _Jaspars_ and _Chalcedony_.

The _Thracians_ and _Macedonians_ gather all the galls or excrescences on the Turpentine-trees, which they sell at _Prusa_, for the dying of silks. This country abounds much with Tortoises, for the _Greeks_ never eat nor destroy them, unless they catch them in their gardens or plantations of Cotton and _Sesamum_.

We left the road of _Gallipoli_ on the right, and came to _Rodesto_, the old _Perinthus_, from thence we left _Heraclea_ on the left, and past _Selibria_, a days journey distant from _Constantinople_. The honey of _Heraclea_ is said to be pernicious, perhaps because the country abounds with the _Chamæleon niger_ (a sort of _Carlina_) to whose root adheres a very venomous excrescence called _Ixia_, which may affect the Bees that feed on that plant.

I found hereabouts a milky plant (perhaps an _Apocynum_) with the leaves and flower of a _Nerion_, or the purple _Lysimachia_.

_Thrace_ is an open country without trees, like _Picardy_; the great plains are divided here and there with ridges and little hills: About three miles before we came to _Constantinople_, we pass’d two long wooden bridges that run over the salt marshes, upon which are many boats and mills, with eight wings or arms: On these lakes there is a great fishery, as also on the _Propontis_, for the Oriental People (as other nations of old) are more delighted with the fish diet than with that of quadrupeds or birds. This may be one reason why the books of the ancients treat more of fish than of fowl, or any other animals.

CHAP. IV.

_The ways of fishing on the ~Propontis~, the ~Bosphorus~, and ~Hellespont~; as also of the fishes taken. By M. ~Belon~._

These seas abound extremely with fish that pass between the _Euxine_ and _Mediterranean_, into which abundance of great fresh rivers empty themselves. The streights and shoars are full of little wood cottages (wherein the Fishermen watch and observe the several shoals) and great variety of nets, both loose and fastened to poles, of several figures, for the taking both of great and small frys: There is also the hook and bait-fishing up and down with long lines; the train and hand-nets, _&c._

Besides all these ways, they practise another manner of fishing by lighted torches in dark calm nights, whereby they find the great fishes asleep, and strike them very silently with sharp tridents and hooked engines: This they find the most convenient for taking the greater sorts of fish, which often break their nets and lines.

The common fishes of these _Streights_ are, the Tunny, and the Pelamis, Mackrel, Scads, Giltheads, Mullets, Gurnards, Sheath-fish, Sword-fish, the Dolphin, different from our Porpess, the Wolf-fish, Lampreys, the Muræna, Sphyrena, Melanurus, Salpa, Sargus, Mena, Atherina, Exocætus which serve for baits to catch Congers, Celerinus, Sardina, Polypus, Loligo, Erythrinus, _&c._

The Garus, so common in the shops of _Constantinople_, is prepared here only out of the sanies, or, ichor of the salted intestines of the Mackrel and Scads. The red Cavear is not made of the eggs or roe of the Sturgeon, but out of the _Cyprinus_. (Q. _Whether the author means the Bream or Carp._)

CHAP. V.

_Of some Beasts and mechanic trades at ~Constantinople~._

Near the _Hippodromus_ at _Constantinople_, I observed some rare animals, which the _Turkish_ Emperors are much delighted with, as the _Onager_, the _Hystrix_, the _Lupus Cervarius_, the _Lynx_, the _Ponticus Mus_, or _Ermine_, many rare Weasils and odd Cats.

The _Turks_ not using the Printing Trade, they levigate and polish their writing paper in box frames, by rubbing it with the _Chalcedony_ and Jaspar-stones, put at the end of sticks. They damask their cymeters with a blewish colour, by macerating _Sal Armoniac_ and Verdigrease in vinegar, and steeping the blades in this mixture, often pouring fresh upon them, this acts upon the steel, and renders it of that colour upon polishing. They granulate leather for scabbards. In the Cutlers shops one sees great variety of Horns, Teeth, _&c._ as of Bufalo’s, Gazels, Morse-teeth, and other Tusks. They colour their linnen with great variety, and with many figures, which they cut in wood and there paint, afterwards stamp and press it upon the linnen, or silk, as in printing upon paper, they first polish their linnen or cottons with pastes of fine flower. The inhabitants on these _Streights_, gather abundance of a broad leaved _Alga_, which they mix with a fat earth, and so cover their houses with it: The current running so strong, casts out great variety of marine productions, as _Alcyonium_, or _Arkeilli_, _Antipathos_ (a sort of Coralline.)

_Mr ~Francis Vernon~’s Letter, written to Mr ~Oldenburg~, ~Jan. 10. 1675/6~, giving a short account of some of his Observations in his travels from ~Venice~ through ~Istria~, ~Dalmatia~, ~Greece~, and the ~Archipelago~, to ~Smyrna~, where this letter was written._

_SIR_,

I must beg your excuse for not having written to you in so long a space: The little rest I have had, and the great unsettledness of my condition is the reason. Neither have I now any great curiosities to impart to you; only some small circumstances of my journey I will run over.

From _Venice_ I set out with those gallies which carried their Embassador that went for the _Porte_. We touch’d at most of the considerable towns of _Istria_ and _Dalmatia_ by the way. In _Istria_ we saw _Pola_, an ancient Repuplic. There remains yet an amphitheatre entire; it is of two orders of _Tuscan_ pillars, placed one over another, and the lower pillars stand on pedestals, which is not ordinary; for, commonly they have nothing but their bases to support them. There is, besides a temple dedicated to _Rome_ and _Augustus_, a triumphal arch, built by a lady of the family of the _Sergii_, in honour of some of her kindred, which commanded in these countries; besides several inscriptions and ancient monuments, which are in divers parts of the town.

In _Dalmatia_ I saw _Zahara_, which is now the metropolis of the country. It was anciently called _Jadera_. It is now very well fortified, being encompassed on three sides with the sea, and that part which is toward the land extremely advantaged by all the contrivances of art, having a castle and a rampart of very lofty bastions to guard it. I found here several ancient inscriptions, by me copied, which will not find room in the compass of a letter. We pass’d in sight of _Zebenico_, and saw three forts, which belong to the town, St _Nicolo_, St _Gioanni_, and _la fortezza Vecchia_; but we went not ashore. That which is most worth seeing in _Dalmatia_, is _Spalatro_, where is _Dioclesian_’s palace, a vast and stupendious fabric, in which he made his residence when he retreated from the empire; it is as big as the whole town, for the whole town indeed is patch’d up out of it’s ruins, and is said by some to take it’s name from it. The building is massive; there is within it an entire temple of _Jupiter_, eight square, with noble porphyry pillars, and cornish, worth any body’s admiration. There is a court before it, adorned with _Ægyptian_ pillars of that stone called _Pyropoicilos_, and a temple under it, now dedicated to St _Lucia_; and up and down the town several fragments of antiquity, with inscriptions and other things worth taking notice of.

Four miles from _Spalatro_ is _Salona_, which shews the ruins of a great town. About as much farther from _Salona_, stands _Clissa_, upon a rocky hill, an eminent fortress of the _Venetians_, which is here the frontier against the _Turk_, from whence they repulsed him in their late wars with great honour. I was at _Lesina_, where is nothing very remarkable; but _Blondi_, that hath written our _English History_, was of it. _Trau_ is ancient, and hath good marks of it’s being so. Here I spoke with Dr _Stasileo_, who put out that fragment of _Petronius Arbiter_, and I saw his manuscript.

I was in the Harbour of _Ragusi_, but not in the town, because we made no stay there. From hence we pass’d the gulph of _Budua_, and saw the mountains of _Antivari_, the plain of _Durazzo_ and _Apollonia_, and came to _Sassino_ a small island, from whence we could see the town of _Valona_, and the mountains _Acroceraunii_, which are very near, and are now called mountains of _Chimæra_.

I staid a fortnight in _Corfu_, and had time to view all that was considerable in the island, particularly the gardens of _Alcinous_, that is, the place where they are supposed to have been, now called _Chrysida_, a most delicious situation: The ancient port, now called Νεκροθάλατσα and several foundations of ancient fabrics. In _Zante_ I was likewise a fortnight, where I saw but little of Antiquity: What is modern is very flourishing, and the island rich and plentiful.

I went from _Zante_ to _Patras_, a town in _Achaja_, of good note among the ancients. Near it is a great mountain, mentioned by _Homer_, by the name of _Petra Olenia_. In the town are several massive ruins, which few there know how to give any account of. There are the remains of a large church, dedicated to St _Andrea_, who, they say, was martyr’d there. This is the first town I saw on the continent of _Greece_. The plain about it is very fruitful, full of springs and rivulets; finely wooded with Olive-trees, Cypresses, Orange and Lemon-trees. The Citrons here are counted among the best of the _Turkish_ empire, and are sent for presents to _Constantinople_. So are all their fruits in very good esteem.

In _Athens_ I have spent two months. Next to _Rome_ I judge it most worthy to be seen for antiquities of any I have yet been at. The temple of _Minerva_ is as entire as the _Rotunda_. I was three times in it, and took all the dimentions with what exactness I could; but it is difficult, because the castle of _Athens_, in which it stands, is a garrison, and the _Turks_ are jealous, and brutishly barbarous, if they take notice that any measures it. The length of the _cella_ or body of the temple without side,

is 168 } Feet _English_.
The breadth 71 }

The _portico_ of the _Doric_ order, which runs round it, hath eight pillars in front, seventeen on the sides; the length of the _portico_ is 230 feet _English_. I have taken all the dimensions within, with those of the προναὸς and _porticos_; but they are too long for a letter. The _fuste_ or shaft of the pillars is 19½ feet in circumference: The _intercolumnium_ 1¼ of the diameter of the pillars. These measures you may rely on as exact to half a foot.

The temple of _Theseus_ is likewise entire, but it is much less, though built after the same model. The length of it’s _cella_ is but 73 feet, the breadth 26. The whole length of the _portico_, which goes round it 123 feet. ’Tis a _Doric_ building, as is that of _Minerva_. Both of them are of white marble.

About the cornish on the outside of the temple of _Minerva_ is a _basso relievo_ of men on horseback, others in chariots, and a whole procession of people going to a sacrifice, of very curious sculpture. On the front is the history of the birth of _Minerva_.

In the temple of _Theseus_, on the front within side the _portico_, at the west end, is the battel of the _Centauri_, and at the east end seems to be a continuation of that history: But there are several figures of women, which seem to be _Pirithous_’s bride, and those other ladies which were at the wedding. On the outside the _portico_, in the spaces between the _Triglyphi_, are several of the prowesses of _Theseus_, most in wrestling with several persons, in which he excelled: All his postures and looks are expressed with great art. Others are monsters, which he is made encountering with, as the bull of _Marathon_, the bear of _Calydon_, _&c._

There is a temple of _Hercules_, a round fabric, only six feet diameter, but neat Architecture. The pillars are of the _Corinthian_ order, which support an _urchitrave_ and _frise_, wherein are done in _relievo_ the labours of _Hercules_. The top is but one stone, wrought like a shield, with a flower on the outside, which riseth like a plume of feathers.

There is yet standing the tower of _Andronicus Cirrhestes_, which is an octogon, with the figures of eight winds, which are large, and of good workmanship; and the names of the winds remain legible in fair _Greek_ characters, where a house, which is built against it on one side, does not hinder, as ἁπηλίωτης, ευρος, βορεας, σκιρων, ζεφυρος· Each wind placed against it’s quarter in the heavens: And the roof is made of little planks of marble, broad at bottom, and which meet all in a point at top, and make an obtuse parymid of 32 or 36 sides.

There is a delicate temple of the _Conic_ order in the castle, whether of _Pandrosus_, or whom, I cannot tell, but the work was most fine, and all the ornaments most accurately engraven:

The length of this temple was 67 }
The breadth 38 } feet.

These pillars, which remain of a portico of the Emperor _Adrian_, are very stately and noble: They are of the _Corinthian_ order, and above 52 feet in height, and 19½ in circumference: They are cannellate, and there are now standing seventeen of them, which part of their cornish on the top. The building to which they belonged, I measured the area of, as near as I could conjecture, and found it near a thousand feet in length, and about six hundred and eighty in breadth.

Without the town, the bridge over the _Elissus_ hath three arches of solid stone work; the middlemost is near 20 feet broad. There is the _stadium_ yet to be seen, whose length I measured, and found it 630 feet, near to what the precise measure of a _stadium_ ought to be, _viz._ 625.

Towards the southern wall of the castle, there are the remains of the theatre of _Bacchus_, with the portico of _Eumenes_, which is near it; the semi-diameter, which is the right sine of the demi-circle which makes the theatre, is about 150 feet, the whole body of the scene 256. Monsieur _de la Guilliotiere_, in that book he hath written of _Athens_ hath made a cut of a theatre, which he calls that of _Bacchus_, which is a meer fancy and invention of his own, nothing like the natural one, which by the plan he has drawn of the town, I judge he did not know. I give you this one hint, that you may not be deceived by that book, which is wide from truth, as will appear to any body who sees the reality, though to one who hath not seen it, it seems plausibly written. I have dwelt long on _Athens_, but yet have said nothing. This town alone deserves a whole book to discourse of it well, which now I have neither time nor room to do; but I have memorials by me of all I saw, which one day, if it please God, I may shew you.

_Thebes_ is a large town, but I found few antiquities in it, excepting some inscriptions and fragments of the old wall, and one gate, which, they say, was left by _Alexander_, when he demolish’d the rest. It is about fifty miles distant from _Athens_, as I judge.

_Corinth_ is two days journey distant; the castle, or Ἀκροκόρινθος, is standing, which is very large. The main of the town is demolished, and the houses, which now are scatter’d, and a great distance from one another. So is _Argos_, which to go round would be about four or five miles, as the houses now stand; but if they stood together, they would scarce exceed a good village. _Napolo della Rumilia_ is a large town, and full of inhabitants, and the Bashaw of the _Morea_ resides there: It is but very few leagues distant from _Argos_.

_Sparta_ is quite forsaken, and _Mestra_ is the town which is inhabited, four miles distant from it: But one sees great ruins thereabout; almost all the walls, several towers and foundations of temples with pillars and chapiters demolished: A theatre pretty entire. It might have been anciently nigh five miles in compass, and about a quarter of a mile distant from the river _Eurotus_. The plain of _Sparta_ and of _Laconia_ is very fruitful; and long, and well watered. It will be about eighty miles in length, as I judge. The mountains on the west side of it very high, the highest I have yet seen in _Greece_; the _Maniotes_ inhabit them. But the plain of _Calamatta_, which anciently was that of _Messene_, seems rather richer. _Corone_ is very abundant in Olives. _Navarrino_, which is esteemed the ancient _Pylos_, hath a very strong castle, fortified by the _Turks_, and is the best port in all the _Morea_. _Alpheus_ is much the best river, and the deepest, and with great reason extolled by all the ancient Poets, and chosen for the seat of the _Olympic_ games, for it is very pleasant. The plains of _Elis_ are very fine and large, fit for to breathe horses in, and for hunting, but not so fruitful as that of _Argos_ and _Messene_, which are all riches. The best woods I saw in _Peloponnesus_, are those of _Achaia_, abounding with Pines and wild Pear, the _Ilex_ and _Esculus_-trees, and, where there runs water with Plane-trees.

_Arcadia_ is a champain fine country, and full of cattle, but is all encompass’d with hills, which are very rough and unhewn. _Lepanto_ is very pleasantly seated on the Gulph, which runs up as far as _Corinth_; and without the town, is one of the finest fountains I saw in _Greece_, very rich in veins of water, and shaded with huge Plane-trees, not inferior in any thing to the spring of _Castalia_ on mount _Parnassus_, which runs through _Delphos_, except in this, that one was chosen by the Muses, and the other not; and poetical fancies have given immortality to the one, and never mentioned the other.

_Delphos_ itself is very strangely situated on a rugged hill, to which you have an ascent of about two or three leagues, and yet that is not a quarter of the way to come up to the pique of _Parnassus_, on the side of which hill it stands: It seems very barren to the eye, but the fruits are very good, where there are any. The wines are excellent, and the plants and simples, which are found there, very fragrant, and of great efficacy.

About _Lebadia_, and all through _Bæotia_, the plains are very fertile, and make amends for the barrenness of the hills which encompass them: But in winter they are apt to be overflown for that reason, and to be turn’d into lakes, which renders the _Bæotian_ air very thick, and so were their skulls too, if the ancients may be believed concerning them; though _Pindar_, who was one that sublimated poetry to it’s highest exaltation, and is much fancied and imitated in our age, as he was admired in his own, was born there: And _Amphion_, who was said to be so divine in his music, that he ravished the very stones, had skill enough to entice them to make up the walls of _Thebes_: So that not every thing that is born in a dull air is dull. These vales I found much planted with Cotton, _Sesamum_ and _Cummin_, of which they make great profit, and a great trade at _Thebes_ and _Lebadia_.

I went from _Thebes_ into the island of _Eubæa_, or _Negropont_, and saw the _Euripus_, which ebbs and flows much after the nature of our tides, only the Moon, and sometimes Winds, make it irregular. The channel, which runs between the town and a castle which stands in an island over against it, is about fifty feet broad; and there are three mills on it, which shew all the changes and varieties that happen in the current. Near the _Euripus_, and opposite to the town, they shew a port, which they say was _Aulis_, and it is not improbable, for it must be thereabouts, Between _Negropont_ and _Athens_, is a high hill, called Ἀγιομακοῦρι, formerly very dangerous, but now guarded by _Albaneses_. It is part of mount _Parnasse_, and near it, on the left hand, lies mount _Pentelicus_, from whence the _Athenians_ anciently fetch’d their stone, and now there is a convent of _Caloyers_ there, one of the richest of all _Greece_.

In going from _Athens_ by sea, I embarked in a port, which lies just by _Munichia_. That which they call _Porto Pyræo_, lies behind it a mile distant, which is a large port able to contain 500 vessels. There are the ruins of the town yet remaining, and of the walls, which joined it to the city of _Athens_. I sailed by _Porto Phalero_ the ancient haven of _Athens_, which is rather a road than a port. I saw an island called Φλέβες, where the _Athenians_ had anciently mines. I went ashore on the promontory of _Sunium_, to view the remains of the temple of _Minerva_, which stood on it. Hence I sailed among the isles of the _Archipelago_, _Macronesia_, _Thermea_, _Serphanto_, _Siphanto_, till I came to _Melo_. From _Melo_ I sailed through the _Cyclades_ to come hither. I pass’d by _Andros_, _Tenos_, _Mycone_, _Delos_: _Nuxia_ and _Paros_ I saw at a distance. We sailed near the northern cape of _Scio_, and the southern of _Myteline_ or _Lesbos_, and so came into the gulph of _Smyrna_. Within this gulph stands _Burlæ_, near some small islands, which is judged to be the ancient, _Clazomenæ_: _Foja_, which is same with the ancient _Phocæa_. Near this, the river _Hermus_ discharges itself into this gulph.

In this my journey, I had some misadventures. My companion, Sir _Giles Eastcourt_, died by the way. At sea I was plunder’d by the _Serphiotes_, where I lost all my letters, and yours among the rest, which you sent to my Lord Embassador at _Constantinople_, and Consul _Rycaut_, whom I find here a very civil and knowing gentleman, and am much obliged to him for his favours.

I have been as curious as I could in taking the latitudes of some remarkable places: As I find them, I shall give them you.

_Gr._ _M._
_Athens_ 38 5
_Corinth_ 38 14
_Sparta_ 37 10
_Corone_ 37 2
_Patras_ 38 40
_Delphos_ 38 50
_Thebes_ 38 22
_Negropont_ or _Chalcis_ 38 31

I desire you to present my humble services to the gentlemen of the _Royal Society_.

_I am_, &c.

_Some plants observed by Sir ~George Wheeler~, in his voyage to ~Greece~ and ~Asia minor~._

In the _Scoglio_, or island of St _Andre_, on the shore of _Istria_, _Scorpioides Limonii foliis, floribus luteis_. _Limonium reticulatum._ _Sideritis spinosa._ _Draba cærulea Cretica._ _Convolvulus rectus argenteis foliis._ _Polium Creticum, &c._

On the rocks near _Pota_ in _Istria_: _Cassia Poëtarum._ _Trifolium Saxatile hirsutissimum._ _Genista montana arborescens._ _Tordilium sive Seseli Creticum._ _Tragoriganum Creticum, vel potius Satureia hyberna nostras._ _Polium Rorismarini foliis._ _Salvia fruticosa._ Abundance of _Samphire_, and a curious bulbose plant, crested with little flowers striped with white and cinnamon colour.

Near _Mortaro_, thirty miles from _Zara_: _Planta lactescens Altheæ foliis_; it was not blown, (it might either be a _Tithymal_, an _Apocinum_, or _Campanula major lactescens Lobel_.) _Eryngium luteum monspeliense, &c._

On the great rock near _Clissa_: _Aster verbasci foliis._ _Jacea incana seu argentea Alpin. in Exot._ _Lotus odoratus._ _Horminum creticum._ _Satureia citrii odore._ _Aster montanus folio odorato, forsan Aster montanus luteus glabro Salicis folio ~Bauhin.~_ _Libanotis Ferulæ facie._ _Linum flore luteo._ _Hieracium flore incarnato._ _Thlaspi Saxatile folio Poëtarum._ _Caucalis platyphylla ~Column.~_ _Caucalis magno flore & fructu._ _Planta Equiseti frutescentis facie_, on the steeple and hard walls, (perhaps a species of _Tithymal_) it was without leaves, but full of joints, with abundance of yellow scaly knobs by pairs, between which issue forth three or four little _Tetrapetalose_ flowers. Of this I saw an _Arborescent_ one near _Troy_.

On the mountain near _Lesina_, in the island _Pharos_: _Aconitum Lycoctinum flore Delphinii, vel Napelli Species._ _Aloë_ in flower. _Asphodelus minor Junci folio, fistulosâ non bulbosâ radice._ _Malva Romana rubra._ _Juneperus major seu oxycedrus._ _Genista Spartium Septimo ~Bauhini~ simile_; the root is hot of a spicy taste. _Pilosella major pilosissima, &c._

In the Island of _Corfu_: _Thymus capitatus Dioscoridis._ _Lysimachia Hysopi folio._ _Scabiosa caule altissimo, flore nigrescente, fortè peregrina ~Bauhin.~_ _Cyperus grumineus miliaceus._ _Scammonea._ _Acarna flore patulo rubente._ _Centaurium major. album._ _Centaurium rubens Spicatum._ _Centaurium ramosum rubens._ _Centaurium ramosum album._ _Vitex flore cæruleo & albo._ _Consolida regalis fœtida._ _Glicyrrhiza._ _Pulegii Species erecto caule, latifolia, incana, & hirsuta._ With many others mention’d before.

In the island of _Zant_: The Curran Grape. White and yellow Melons. A large thin-skinn’d Lemon without either seed or stone, as also the Curran Grapes are. _Genista seu spartium foliis argenteis._ _Convolvulus Sagittariæ foliis._ _Prunella spinosa._ _Coris Matthioli._ _Gossipium seu Xylon._ _Glaux Dioscoridis._ _Cistus plantaginis folio._ _Cicer Creticum, &c._

In the isle of _Cerigo_: _Dictamnus falsus._ _Chamædrys Alpina minima hirsuta._ _Thymi capitati secunda species foliis minoribus densius Stipatis._ _Salvia pomifera seu gallifera._ _Stæchas citrina._ That species of Thyme is in Dr _Plukenet_’s _Phytographia_, _Tab. 116. F. 4._

In the isle of _Tenos_ or _Tine_: _Limonium caule sinuato._ _Frutex Spinosus Jaceæ albæ capitulis._ _Stachys parva foliis argenteis._ _Genista spinosa floribus rubris._

Near the ruins of _Troy_: _Quercus glande majore._ _Gossipium._ _Sesamum._ _Anguria._ _Tragacantha._ _Tartonreira Massiliensium seu Thymelæa incana Sericea, longifolia & latifolia._ _Pastinaca echinifera ~Colum.~_ _Jacea lutea capite spinoso._ _Papaver corniculatum flore tricolore._ _Pancratium_ in flower. _Verbascum marinum laciniatis foliis._

Near _Constantinople_: _Abrotanum humile flore Chamæmeli._ _Serpilli species foliis Satureiæ._ _Androsamum flore & thecâ omnium maximis._ _Guaiacum Patavinum._

On mount _Olympus_, near _Bursa_ or _Prusa_: _Abies conis sursum spectantibus, foliis subtus argenteis._ _Cistus laurinis foliis._ _Aster montanus, Linariæ folio, flore flavo._ _Coris seu Hypericum foliis crispis._ _Hypericum foliis hirsutis, margine crinifero._ _Aster Conyzoides ~Gesn.~_ _Astragalus Matthiol. flore cæruleo._ _Pyrola frutescens Arbuti folio._ _Gentianella verna._ _Senecio incana pinguis._ _Cerinthe minor._ _Cistus argenteis foliis._ _Cymbalaria Italica._ _Calamintha montana præstantior._ _Elichryson sive Gnaphalium comâ aureâ._ _Gramen junceum Echinatum._ _Millefolium nobile odoratum._ _Hypericum seu Ascyron magno flore._ _Panax Heracleum._ _Gnaphalium repens._ _Herba Tuitia Auriculæ Affinis._ _Tragacantha._ _Helleborus niger._ _Ephedra seu Polygonum Scandens bacciferum_; climbing up to the tops of the vast Plane-trees, according to _Bellonius_.

In our Journey to _Mandragorai_ and _Courougouli_: _Scordium lanuginosum sive Creticum._ _Alsine Lotoides seu Anthylloides, sive spergulæ facie ~C. B.~_ _Gingidum Hispanicum._ _Leucoium Alyssoides Clypeatum maj. ~C. B.~_ _Origanum Spicatum Montis Sipyli foliis glabris._

Near _Thyatira_: _Spartium alterum Monospermum, Pseudospartium Hispanicum Aphyllon._ A _Thapsus minor longifolia_; or rather a _Sideritis_ or _Stachis foliis Salviæ argenteis pilosis mollibus_; which is the _Panacea_ of the country people. _Scabiosa argentea min._

About _Smyrna_: Two kinds of _Jujubes_ or _Ziziphus_. Turpentine-trees, and Mastich-trees. _Smyrnion Creticum._ _Origanum perenne lignosum odoratissimum._ Several sorts of Olive-trees. _Tamarisk_ and _Ricinus_, or _Palma Christi_.

Near the gulph of _Lepanto_: _Tithymalus Spinosus._ The Fust or yellow wood used to die with, call’d by the _Greeks_ _Chrisoxulo_. _Cedrus Lyciæ._ _Arisarum angustifolium._ _Lamium moschatum foliorum margine argentato._

About mount _Parnassus_, _Athens_, and other places of _Attica_ or _Achaja_: _Stachys viscoso flore luteo, odore Narcissi juncifolii._ _Petromarula Cretica_ or _Rapunculus Pyramidalis altera_. _Sabina._ _Crocus Albus & Luteus._ _Poterion Plinii_, smaller than _Tragacanth_. _Polium Gnapholoides._ _Ilex Chermifera._ _Acacia Secunda Matthioli._ _Anemones_ of all colours. Many _Asters_ and _Arisarums_. _Aristolochia Clematitis._ Two _Asphodils_. _Brassica frutescens._ _Borago variegata Cretica._ _Cneorum Matth. & Clusii, sive Thymelææ affinis facie externâ._ Several _Cisti_. _Jacea Moschata_, with other knapweeds. _Leontopetalum_ all over the plain of _Athens_. _Oleander._ _Scilla._ _Scorzonera Cretica Asphodeli sistulosi facie_, _Galocorta Græcorum_, it is the womens _Cosmetic_, and Milk-plant. _Siliqua Edulis_ or _Carob_. Two _Thymelæa_’s, _argentea_ & _tomentosa_. _Tithymalus Spinosus._ _Equisetum frutescens Aphyllon_ (perhaps a sort of _Tithymal_) _Lychnis frutescens_: With many more, which we have either mention’d in other places, or else were doubtful of, as a kind of small silver-leaved _Scabious_, and a _Dandelion_ or _Hieracium_, with Pilewort or small Colts-foot-leaves, with a root like so many Scorpions following one another. A sort of _Medica lunatâ siliqua_, or _Loto affinis siliquis hirsutis circinatis_. _Astragalus argenteus_ or _Syriacus_.

Near _Corinth_ and the _Isthmus_, _Pinus Maritima_ with small cones. _Cedrus Lycia vel Sabina baccifera._ _Ceratia_ or _Siliqua Arbor_. _Lentiscus._ _Olea Sylv._ _Scabiosa argentea petræa._ _Aristolochiæ Clematitis species._ _Linaria latifolia valentina Clusii_, the flowers beautiful with three colours. _Androsemum umbelliferum._ _Scorzonera bulbosa._ _Arbutus folio non serrato_, _Comarea Dioscoridis Adrachne Theophrasti_.

For these the reader may consult Mr _Ray_’s _Collection of Exotic Catalogues_, especially the _Oriental_ one, where the synonymous names are added.

_Historical Observations relating to ~Constantinople~. By the reverend and learned ~Tho. Smith~, D. D. Fellow of ~Magd. Coll. Oxon.~ and of the ~Royal Society~._

_Constantinople_, formerly _Byzantium_, was by _Constantine_ the Great called so after his own Name[6], who being mightily pleased with the beautiful and advantageous situation of the place between two seas, and defended by narrow streights on both sides, removed the seat of the Empire hither, and laid the foundation of it’s future splendor and greatness. It was also by a special Edict or Law of the same Emperor[7], which he caused to be engraven on a marble pillar, placed near his own statue on horseback, in one of the piazza’s of his new-built city called _Strategium_, where the Souldiers used to muster as in the _Campas Martius_, called _Second_ or _New Rome_, in emulation of old _Rome_, which he designed and endeavoured this should equal in all things. Accordingly he endowed it with the same Privileges and Immunities, and establish’d the same number of Magistrates, and Orders of People, and divided the whole extent of it into fourteen Precincts or Regions[8], according to the division of _Rome_. And the _Greek_ writers were as elegant and extravagant in their commendations of it; but the usual title in their ordinary discourses and writings, when they had occasion to mention it without any flourish, was ἡ βασιλεύουσα, or ἡ βασιλὶς, that is, the imperial city, to the same sense with that of _Sidonius Apollinaris_[9].

_Salve scepturum columen, Regina orientis,_
_Orbis Roma tui._

The country about it was afterwards called _Romania_ in a limitted and restrained sense, (for that _Romania_ was anciently the same with _Orbis Romanus_, seems clear from _Epiphanius_[10]) and the people Ῥωμαῖοι. But I suppose this was not done till about the middle times of the empire, when it began to decline. The _Greeks_ still retain this name: For if you ask any of the _Greeks_ born upon the continent of _Thrace_ what countryman he is, he answers forthwith, Ῥωμαῖος, _Romios_, for so they pronounce it. The _Turks_ in like manner called a _Greek_ Christian _Urum Gaour_, or the _Roman Infidel_, as they will call sometimes the Emperor of _Germany_, _Urumler Padisha_, or Emperor of the _Romans_. Hence it was that the latter _Græcian_ Emperors stiled themselves βασιλεῖς Ῥωμαίων, Kings of the _Romans_, that is, such as were born in _Romania_, and the other countries, which made up the eastern division of the empire. Though perchance by this flourishing title they pretended a right to the government of the west; upon which vain presumption they assumed also the title of Κοσμοκράτορες, or _Emperors of the World_, as if they had been true successors of _Augustus_, and the western Emperors, usurpers; whom they called by way of contempt and indignation, Ῥῆγες, _Reges_, as _Luitprandus_[11] informs us in the account of his embassy to _Nicephorus Phocas_, and afforded the people of _Italy_ no other title than that of _Longobards_ or _Lombards_[12]. The present _Greeks_ call all the western Christians Λατῖνοι, or Φράγγοι, _Latins_ or _Franks_, the _Turks_ only making use of the latter, when they speak civilly of us, and calling _Christendom_ _Phrenkistan_, in the present _Greek_ Φραγγία. The _Turks_ now as proudly call _Constantinople_, _Alempena_, or the refuge of the world; where indeed seems to be a medly of all or most nations of three parts of it, and of all religions, which are allowed to be publickly profest and exercised every where throughout the empire, except the _Persian_. For they look upon it as a corruption of, and deviation from the rules and doctrine of _Mahomet_, their great false Prophet, and therefore absolutely forbid it, as repugnant to, and destructive of the doctrine of life and salvation, as they speak. And accordingly they condemn with all imaginable fury the professors of it, who pretend to follow _Ali_, as sectaries and apostates, and entertain worse opinions of them, than of _Christians_, or _Jews_, or _Infidels_. The _Persians_ are not behindhand with them in their hatred and disrespect, deriding them as gross and stupid, and looking upon them as little less than barbarous: Interest and zeal for their several tenents heightening their differences so much, that in time of war they destroy one anothers mosques. I remember, that there was a great discourse in _Constantinople_ among the _Turks_, concerning an impudent hot-headed _Persian_, who publickly in the new mosque, built by the mother of the present Emperor, asserted that _Ali_ was equal to _Mahomet_. But it seems he very luckily made his escape out of their hands, at which the priests and the more zealous _Turks_ were very much scandalized.

The _Greeks_ have twenty six churches within the walls of the city, besides six in _Galata_, of which I have given an account elsewhere. They have also two churches at _Scutari_, one at _Kadikui_ or _Chalcedon_. So at _Staurosis_, _Chingilkui_, and several other villages upon the _Asian_ shore of the _Bosphorus_, as at _Beshictash_, _Ortakui_, _Chorouch chesme_, which church is dedicated to St _Michael_ the Archangel, _Jenikui_ or _Neochorion_, _Therapia_, _Bujukdere_, and other villages on the _European_ side. They have also a church at _Haskui_, where is their burying-place, and another near the _Bagno_, dedicated to St _Parasceve_. And at _Tatoula_ about a mile from _Pera_, upon a hill, which from the name of the church is thence called by the _Greeks_ and _Franks_, St _Demetrius_’s _hill_. Next to the holy Virgin, St _Demetrius_ and St _George_ have most churches dedicated to them.

The _Armenians_ have not, if I remember aright, above seven churches, they being few in number in companion of the _Greeks_.

The _Jews_ may have in the city and places adjacent between twenty and thirty synagogues, this being the greatest shelter of that accursed and contemptible people in the Grand Signior’s dominions, next to _Caire_ and _Saloniki_; and I believe there may be about twenty or thirty thousand families of them. They are of great use and service to the _Turks_, upon _account_ of their brokage and merchandise, and industry in several mechanical trades. All these I look upon as natives, or slaves rather, each paying money for his head every year. The _Jews_ indeed very wisely collect this tax among themselves, and according to an agreement made with the _Tefterdar_ or Treasurer, pay a certain sum in gross for their whole nation residing there; by which piece of cunning they are great gainers, and spare the poor among them less able to pay, by a contribution of the rich to make up the sum. The _English_ and _Dutch_ Embassadors have their chapels in their palaces common to their respective nations.

The churches and chapels of the western _Christians_ of the _Roman_ communion in _Galata_, are,

St _Peter_’s, belonging to the _Dominicans_, where is the famous piece of _Madonna di Constantinopoli_, as the _Italians_ call it, or of the Blessed Virgin holding the holy child _Jesus_ in her arms; which they pretend to be drawn by the hand of St _Luke_, celebrated by some of the later ecclesiastical writers to have been a famous Painter. Out of respect to this idle tradition, the credulous and superstitious _Latins_ and _Greeks_ of the _Roman_ communion shew great veneration to it, which otherwise hath little in it of proportion, art, or beauty to derive any reputation upon the designer, or upon his work.

St _Francis_, belonging to the _Conventuali_, Friers of the order of St _Francis_: The ground of this by the wise conduct and intercession of _Cavaliere Molino_, the _Venetian Bailo_, after the surrendry of _Candia_, upon the peace made by the Republic with the Grand Signior, was procured to be restored, and a handsome church rebuilt, with the large contributions of money sent out of _Christendom_.

St _Benedict_, belonging to the _Jesuits_, where is a rich altar curiously adorn’d with several figures in _Mosaic_. This convent was purchased for them by their great benefactor, _Henry_ the fourth of _France_.

St _Mary_, belonging to the _Observantines_ or _Zoccolanti_, a branch of the order of St _Francis_, so called from their going in _Zoccoli_ or wooden clogs.

The _Capucines_ have a little chapel dedicated to St _George_, hard by the _French_ Embassador’s palace.

St _Ann_, a chapel frequented by the _Petrots_.

St _Paul_ and St _Anthony_ were both taken away some years since from the Christians, and turned into mosques. The former of which is now known by the name of _Arab Giamesi_, or the mosque of the _Arabians_. Our interpreters mentioned also to me the church of St _John_, which the _Turks_ have seized upon for their use, St _George_, which the Jews are possessed of, and St _Sebastian_, which was used to be visited chiefly on holy-days.

The north wind blows for the most part at _Constantinople_, which must be ascribed to it’s nearness to the _Euxine_ sea, which bears that point from it. So that for want of a southwardly wind, ships have been forced to lie a month or two sometimes near the mouth of the _Hellespont_; this was taken notice of long since by _Eunapias_, in the life of _Ædesius_ who ascribes the seldom blowing of the south wind to the situation of the mountains, whereas it is checked and overpowered by the exuberence of the vapours continually sent forth from the _Black_ and _Great Sea_, as the _Greeks_ call it in comparison of the _Mediterranean_. _Vide ad finem Codini de Origin. Constantinopol. Edit. ~Paris.~ pag. 80._

The _Hellespont_ is about forty miles in length, and at the castles of _Sestos_ and _Abydos_ the streight may be about three quarters of an _English_ mile over, or less.

The length of the _Propontis_ is about a hundred and fifty miles, both shores may be seen in the middle of it. In it are

_Cyzicus_ an island near the _Asian_ shore, to which it is joined by two bridges. It still retains it’s ancient name Κυξικὸ, and is the seat of a Bishop, being inhabited by a considerable number of _Greeks_.

_Proconnesus_, not far from the former; now, as for some centuries past, called _Marmora_, from the excellent quarries of marble there found, the _marmor Cyzenicum_ also being famous in the time of _Pliny_.

_Besbycus_, now called by the _Greeks_ καλόλιμνο, or the good haven, not far from the entrance into the bay of _Montanea_ to the north-and-by-east; the _Turks_ call it _Imramle_.

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Mr. Ray's travels, Vol. 2Chapter XVI: Front Matter (16)

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