Chapter XII: Front Matter (12)

And that I may return to my purpose again; near to the _Turkish_ Mosque of the holy Rock, is also another church, which by the Christians, when they were in possession of _Jerusalem_, was call’d the _Virgin Mary_’s church, which is very well built, rather bigger than the _Turkish_, and stands without towards the south on the place of the great porch of the _Israelites_, which is several times mention’d in the Scriptures _Viz._ _Joh._ x. _Matth._ xxi. where it is calleth the temple and porch of _Solomon_, where Christ did preach, and drove out the buyers and sellers, _&c._ Underneath it is a great cave, so wide that some hundred horses may with ease be drawn up in battalia therein. This is also in the possession of the _Turks_, and the Christians dare no more come in here than in the other. By this prohibition _viz._ That the _Mahometans_ shall admit into their churches or porches thereof no strangers which according to their laws are not cleansed and washed, you may easily see, that the _Turks_ have taken many ceremonies and laws from the Jews, and according to their depraved understanding and mind, transcribed them into their _Koran_; so we see that anciently they have their circumcision, offerings, washings, fasts at certain times of the year, marrying more than one wife, not eating any thing that is unclean, or pork, or what is suffocated, not having bells, nor drinking wine, as the _Levitical_ Priests must not do, derived from the Jews; but this last law concerning not drinking of wine, is not only not kept, for they drink thereof without mixture, let it be as strong as it can, more than any other nation. It being then true that they choose the fatt with wine presented them by _Moses_, as is before said, to their own ruin and destruction, wherefore I pray that God may fulfil their prophecy, _Amen_.

CHAP. VI.

_Of the ~Saracens~ and ~Turkish~ religion, ceremonies, and hypocritical life, with a short hint how long time their reign shall last after ~Mahomet~’s decease._

Seeing I have here above made mention, amongst the rest of the places and churches of _Jerusalem_, of the _Turkish_ Mosques, and also of _Mahomet_ their Prophet; I cannot but also relate something of their hypocritical and superstitious life and belief, as I have observed in my travels, and during my stay among them, chiefly something of their outward ceremonies, good works, wherewith they think to fulfil the laws, to cleanse themselves from their manifold sins and transgressions, and to obtain God’s mercy and love. Wherefore they strive that they may be found always busy in these good works, whereof they reckon the chiefest to be; alms, pilgrimage, fastings, to make offerings, to abstain from certain food or drinks, frequent washing, praying, upon which two last they look most of all, as the true means, by which, if they keep them diligently, they may be freed and absolved from their sins, according to the promises of their dear Prophet _Mahomet_. Such and the like have also the Jews had in the Old Testament, where without doubt their Prophet, being by his mother an _Ishmaelite_, had them also. But seeing that he also attributeth to these absolution and satisfaction for our sins, and also consequently salvation and everlasting life; therefore all those that follow and believe his doctrine, miss the only Mediator and Saviour Jesus Christ, of whom as well as of his holy word, they else have a good opinion, as appeareth by their _Koran_, in whom God the Almighty Father will only be known, invoked and adored. As St _John_ saith Chap. v. 23. ‘He that honoureth not the Son, honoureth not the Father that hath sent him.’ And chap. xiv. 9. where Jesus saith, ‘He that hath seen me hath seen the Father.’ And in _Acts_ iv. 12. it is said, ‘There is no Salvation in any other, for there is no other name under Heaven given among men, whereby we must be saved.’ Wherefore although _Mahomet_ doth greatly command and teach, that we must adore the only God, yet they do not know the true God, that will only be adored and honour’d in his beloved Son; and besides _Mahomet_ will not allow that God hath a Son, and much less that Christ is the true God, in whom we shall believe. For in his diabolical and blasphemous mind and thoughts he hath this precaution, that if God should have a Son he might come to be disobedient unto him, as happeneth sometimes chiefly amongst them, to worldly Princes, which would expose all creatures in heaven, as well as on earth unto great danger. So he denieth the Deity of Christ and esteemeth him to be no more (as _Arius_ doth) than a great Saint and meer Man. So he hath the same opinion with _Macedonius_, of the Holy Ghost, whom and Christ he sometimes maketh but one person. And so the _Turks_ know no more, by the instruction of their cursed Prophet, of the true living God (that is one in his essence and three in person) than when they adored the fire, water and other elements, nay heaven and earth, (as also the _Persians_ have done) before they come over to the _Saracens_, and adhered to the doctrine of their _Mahomet_. And besides they have no more comfort in our Lord Christ, than the Jews, because they do not believe that Jesus the Son of the _Virgin Mary_, and messenger of God, was crucify’d, dead and bury’d, but that another, that was very like him, suffer’d instead of him, because he was seated in Heaven (where into God received him, and that he was to return again at the end of the world) a great deal higher than that he could be so shamefully kill’d by the Jews that impious people; wherefore the _Turks_ admire it very much, that so many Pilgrims of all nations, come to see the grave of Christ with so great a devotion, which is not his. And although the _Turks_ prefer their _Mahomet_ before Christ, and also do not believe right neither of his essence nor of his person, so that therefore all their worship, with what devotion soever performed, is null and in vain, because it is not in Christ: Yet for all that they praise and esteem Christ very high, and extol him far beyond any man, as one that was conceived by the Holy Ghost, born of the Virgin _Mary_, and that hath here on earth carried on his doctrine, and confirm’d it with powerful miracles. Wherefore they esteem the books of _Moses_, and the other writings of the Prophets, but chiefly the four Evangelists, which they call the book _Jugilis_ (and the books of _Moses_ _Thresit_) as true and godly. And sometimes they pretend so fairly, that an ordinary Man that is not well instructed in the chief articles of Christianity, although there is so great a difference, might easily be seduced, and perswaded. Besides the _Turks_ will not allow, neither to _Jews_, _Moors_, nor _Christians_, nay not to their own Nation, to say any thing ill of Christ, nor to curse him, but if any body should presume to do it, the soles of their feet are struck very severely with many blows, and he is fined besides according to his ability. So their Prophet _Mahomet_ commends the holy Scripture very much, and saith, that it containeth truth and happiness.

If they would but often look into it (as their _Koran_ teacheth them in several places) to read in it, and mend their lives according to it, they might easily be brought to the right way again; but he himself doth not stand by his words, but falleth off again from them afterwards, and speaketh quite otherways of the holy Scripture, and that so differing, that he quite contradicts himself. For as he did commend it before, so now he discommendeth it again, when he saith, that it hath been (because it is too difficult to be kept) long since quite out of doors, chiefly in those parts where is written, that we must do good to our enemies; leave all for his sake; love God with all our heart, _&c._ and our neighbour as our own self. And that therefore he, _Mahomet_, was peculiarly and purposely chosen by God Almighty, to bring down with him the _Koran_, and communicate it to the world (that was then drown’d in lusts, sin and vices) to reform and bring it to rights again. Besides this, he knew very well how to disguise his tricks, and how to behave himself in his life and conversation, devoutly and discreetly towards the people, and how to blind them under this pretence, that they did believe him, and receive him the sooner to be a great Prophet and Messenger from God. When he found that he had got a good party, and a great many adherents that impowered him, he studied daily more and more to order his laws so, that they might be acceptable and pleasing to all the world. And thus he got in a great many places such a fame, that, to our grief in these times, he hath seduced and possessed a great part of the world with his erroneous and poisonous doctrine, the _Turks_ closely adhering to this doctrine, therefore their hearts are so blinded with darkness, that they cannot have any true knowledge, either of God the Father, or the Son, or the Holy Ghost, and so they miss of the right way that would bring them to the knowledge, and acknowledgment of their sins, and consequently to the remission thereof, and so make them children of God, and heirs of life everlasting. But on the contrary, they remain impenitent, and persist in their sinful life with such a confidence and security, that they know not when they commit sins; as to take a man’s property and goods away by force; to destroy his house and lands; to undermine his life and livelihood; and also, to contaminate themselves with uncleanness, whoredom, sodomy; not to keep an oath that hath been taken, to revenge themselves, from whence results, envy, hatred, anger, contention, murder, _&c._ as we hear, what injustice and violence the Grand Signior committeth daily upon our brethren and sisters, that border upon his dominions; which we need not to wonder at, because, if they fall out amongst themselves, they try all unjust means to revenge themselves. Wherefore they accuse their adversaries often falsly (because they dare not offer any violence) before their Judges, and so bring them to damage, trouble and pains. But when they have committed one of these, or the like facts, and have a mind to free themselves of it, or to be absolved, they go after their own invented devotion, to good works, alms, prayers, fasting, redeeming of captives, _&c._ to make satisfaction to God for their committed sins, as their _Koran_ teacheth them. And so they lead a life of good outward conversation, and are very diligent in their devotion, chiefly in going to their prayers at the five customary hours of the day, when they leave their work and go to church. And seeing that in these countries they have neither clocks nor watches to tell them the time of the day and prayers, instead of them they have their priests (called _Meitzen_ by them) on the steeples, which are ordered to cry out the hours with a loud voice, that you may hear them as far almost as the ringing of a bell, even throughout the whole town. The first hour of prayers is an hour and half before day-light: The second is about noon: The third (which the _Arabians_ call _Latzera_) is about three o’Clock in the afternoon: The fourth is at sun-set; and the fifth when after the sun is down, the twilight, or whitishness of the skies is gone, and the stars appear clearly. Sometimes two of these priests sing together, which is common in great towns, and they sing almost as with us they sing a ballad, so that while the one is singing, the other may fetch his breath; and so they sing by turns, until the song is at an end. When I came first into these countries, and hear’d them sing about that time in the morning, I believed the _Turks_ did it that they might brisk themselves up to go to work, until I heard them do the same at other hours in the day time, and understood they were their priests. So they sing about five o’clock at night very well, and sometimes something longer, because of the sick that live near, which desire it of them, to make them cheerful, and to have a good heart, which we need not to wonder at, for their clergy (which are not wiser, or more learned than the laymen) know not how to comfort them, or to make them joyful, much less how to give good and wholesome instruction out of the word of God (although they believe it to be true) how to obtain forgiveness of sin, and God’s mercy, love, or commiseration, but think it to be sufficient, if they admonish them that lie a dying to think of God, and to pray to him that he may have mercy upon them; and afterwards to wash their body to cleanse them quite from all sins, according to the law of their _Mahomet_, which they highly esteem, and that the rather, because they serve not only the living, but also the dead; wherefore the _Turks_ wash themselves daily, chiefly at the hours of their prayer, when they are a going to church, and that very carefully and diligently, _viz._ Their hands, privy members, head, neck, feet, nay the whole body, according as they are contaminated or become unclean. So in consideration of their sins, they have three sorts of washing; whereof one is that of the whole body, which those must make use of that are not married, and contaminate themselves with concubines; wherefore the baths are kept continually in an equal heat, and are open to any body both by day and night, that those that have occasion to wash their whole body, may not be hindered in their devotion, but soon go to church again. The second is performed on the organs of the five senses, and the head, to cleanse them from all spots and blemishes, which are contracted by ill thought and frivolous and unseemly discourses; wherefore there are several cisterns here and there, but chiefly in their churches and chapels, where they wash themselves first, that being clean, they may be worthy to come to church to prayers, for if they should omit it, they believe that their prayers would not be acceptable to God, and so he would not hear them. So they begin first with washing of their hands, then they lift up the water with the hollow of their hands, and so let it run down to their elbow; then they wash their mouth, nose, eyes, ears, head, neck, and at last their feet, and speak some peculiar words with it. When they have no water, which often happeneth in large desarts in _Arabia_, they are allowed by their laws instead thereof, to rub these members over with sand. But that they may not be hindered by their cloaths from coming to these members, they wear such ones that have wide sleeves, no gatherings about their neck, nor have any strings about their drawers. The third sort is also esteemed to be very necessary, and is made use of as often as they empty their body by stool or urine, or belching, and so they wash themselves squatting down before the cisterns, publickly without shame, both before and behind, in the sight of every body. According to what hath been said, we see that they mind only the outward cleansing of their body, and so they look also upon the outward circumcision, rather than to think how they ought, according to God’s commands, to cleanse themselves from their inward leprosy, by the bath of regeneration, and to circumcise their hearts by an inward spiritual circumcision, whereof they know nothing. When their clergymen have cried out the hours from the steeples to the _Batzars_, or Exchanges, _&c._ and the _Turks_ have washed and cleansed themselves, they go into their chapels, which are in the middle of their great Camps, or _Carvatschars_, where I could see it best, because I durst not go into their mosques. After they have left their shoes at the gate, they do not turn nor look back for one another to speak, but go strait forwards, until they come to their places where they stand still, and look upon their priest that is before them, and mind him when he beginneth the prayers, that they may say it after him, and imitate his ceremonies or means, whereof he maketh use, as the lifting up his hands, stroking over his forehead, bending his whole body forwards, falling down upon his knees, kissing the earth; and at length when the _Leila hillalla_ beginneth, turning their heads from one side to the other, whereby they give a hint, that they are in peace and good will with God and their neighbours. While they are in their holy places, you shall hear none of them sneeze, cough, hawk or spit, for they are of opinion, that if they should do so, God would not hear their prayers so effectually, because they should not be perfectly clean. They have no set form of their prayers, and pray generally for good fortune and other worldly welfare; for victory for their Emperor; that God may send great divisions amongst us Christians, that so they may have a better opportunity to fall upon us, and to beat us. They suffer no images in their temples or chapels, and are only for adoring the true and only God, Creator of heaven and earth; and so instead of them, they have pictures of fine plants or flowers, _viz._ of roses, _&c._ and writings of their Prophet _Mahomet_; and so you find on their gold and silver coins no pictures or images of their Emperors, as upon ours, but only the names of them, or of the towns where they are stamped, in _Arabian_ letters, (which are common to both nations) together with the date of the year, which they begin from the time when _Mahomet_ fled into the desarts, which for that reason they call the year of _Hegira_, where he got a great number of adherents, and was made by them a King; this was done in the year of _Christ_ 622. After they have ended their prayers, they begin to talk to one another, and so every one of them goeth home to work again; and they are allowed on their feast days (which they keep on _Friday_, as we do on _Sunday_, and the _Jews_ on _Saturday_) to open their shops again after prayers, and to go work, because they say that idleness may the easier draw them into sins. So one may easily know by their shops, according as they are opened or shut up on these three days, whether they belong to Christians, _Turks_, or _Jews_; besides, none of these forceth one to observe the others holydays, and so they live peaceably and quietly together. Before the _Turks_ holiday beginneth, they light on _Thursday_ night before, as soon as it beginneth to be dark, upon their high steeples, many lamps, whereof they hang without on the galleries round about, three rows one above the other, so that as you look upon them in the night, they look like unto a threefold garland; they let them burn so long until they go out of themselves one after the other. The same lamps they also light every night during their _Lent_, which beginneth in their month _Romadan_, so called by the _Arabians_, and doth last all that month long. Their year consisteth of twelve months, which they account by the moon-lights; so that their months do not agree with ours, (for theirs have not, one with the other, above twenty-nine or thirty days) and consequently their years want between ten or eleven days of ours, so that their _Lent_ falleth at an uncertain time, sometimes in the spring, and sometimes in the summer, _&c._ so in my time it began in _December_, and ended in _January_. During all this time they are very devout, and strive to be at the prayers and duties; for if any body should die in _Lent_ time, that had used not to frequent them, they would look upon him as a lost and damned man, and doubt whether they should bury him or no. During their _Lent_, they eat nothing before night; when the stars appear, then every one goeth home to eat, or else in the great _Batzars_ to a cook’s shop, to buy victuals, where all night long is so great a throng of poor people, that have nothing to eat at home, that they lift one another almost up; there you see one eating, another drinking, another crying out, others quarrelling, which causeth such a crowd and noise, as is enough to make one deaf and giddy. When _Lent_ is at an end, then they begin their _Easter_ feast (which they call _Ulubaira_) which they keep with great solemnity for three days, salute one another very kindly, and with one the other all health and happiness, as we do on new year’s day: They also seek all sorts of pastime, chiefly the Janizaries, which in great places erect gibbets three fathoms high, to the top whereof they tie strong ropes, almost like as the children do in our country, where they swing others for a small recompence; when any body sits in it, two stand ready with a broad string, one on each side, which they fling before him, and fling him backwards with it, and so set him a swinging. Others run before the people that are walking, and sprinkle them with sweet smelling water, to get a little spell of money out of them, chiefly the Christians, which they will not easily leave before they have satisfied them; wherefore they are necessitated to stay at home on these days. Not long after, they keep another peculiar feast, called _Chairbairam_ where they also use all sorts of gesticulations, which were too long to relate here; they do not fast on those days, but they sacrifice young steers and wethers, _&c._ cut them into small pieces, to distribute them among the people, for the honour of _Abraham_, because he did obey God, and would have sacrificed his son _Isaac_ to him: At this abundance of heathens congregate themselves in certain places before the towns, to go in pilgrimage to _Medina-Talnabi_, _Mecca_, and _Jerusalem_, for love to _Mahomet_. Amongst them many are found, that are recovered again from dangerous distempers, or delivered from great dangers, and then did make a vow, either to go on pilgrimage to one of these places, or else to kill such a number of beasts to distribute among the poor as an alms.

According to what I have said before, that they compute their months more by the moon-light, and so account twelve of them to a year; they observe mightily the change of the moon, chiefly the new moon, to see it again. Wherefore at that time they go often in great numbers out, unto the next hill, to observe it the better, after sun-set. He that seeth it first sheweth it with great rejoycing to his companions. In their prognostications they also mind the moon’s light, and according to that, they make their account, to know then if any thing shall happen. They have also (as some of them have told me) a peculiar book, which they keep very close to themselves, wherein is briefly written, what shall happen to them every year, whether it be good or bad: This beginneth in the same year with their Prophet _Mahomet_, and continueth for 1000 years, when this is at an end they have nothing more of that nature worth any thing.

And being they go no farther, some will deduce or conclude from thence, that their reign will soon have an end, when those years are passed. Wherefore they fear the Christians very much, and confess themselves, that they expect to suffer a great blow from the Christians: And this one may see or conclude from hence, for on their holidays in the morning about nine of the clock, they shut up the gates of the towns, great champs, and other publick habitations, as I found at _Aleppo_, so that many times I could not get either out or in until they opened them again, for they fear at that time to be assassinated by the Christians.

Being then that their term of years is near expired, for when I lived in these places in the year 1575, they writ 982 of this same term, so that there was not quite 18 years more to come. Now if we compare these 1000 years with those whereof _John_ the Evangelist and Apostle, maketh mention in his _Revelations_, chap. xx. 7, saying, ‘When the thousand years are expired _Satan_ shall be loosed out of prison. And shall go out to deceive the nations which are in the four quarters of the earth, _Gog_ and _Magog_ to gather them together to battle’ (as also is written in this same book of _Revelations_ in chap. ix. and by the holy Prophet _Ezekiel_, in chap. xxxviii. xxxix.) ‘The number of whom is as the sand of the sea, _&c._’ We find not only that they may also be interpreted and applied to the _Turks_ and their adherents, but also that they have begun their reign almost at the same time when _Mahomet_ and the _Antichrist_ should appear, about the year 666 as we read in the 13th chapter and the last verse of St _John_ in his _Revelation_. And besides, it looketh in these miserable times (when it seems as if every thing would turn topsy turvy) that these years are passed, and that Satan is loosed, as if our dear Lord God would make an end of this malicious world. Add, that some learned Mathematicians do prognosticate that at these times, but chiefly in the year 1588. great alterations will be in all the parts of the world. When we add to this date the 42 months, or 1260 days, or three years and a half, whereof the Prophet _Daniel_, and also the holy Evangelist and Apostle _John_ in his _Revelation_ makes mention, the 18 years that are still wanting of the 1000 years of their _Mahomet_ (as is above said) will be compleated, so that these two years numbers do very well again agree together.

_God the Almighty preserve us in all adversities, that we may persevere in the acknowledged truth of his Holy Gospel, and send us penitent hearts, that we may be sensible of his merciful visitations, and also overcome the two last woes that are not quite over, with patience. ~Amen.~_

CHAP. VII.

_Of Mount ~Bethzetha~, and the two Houses of ~Pilate~ and ~Herod~._

From the temple mount towards the north, you come presently towards the house of judicature, where _Pontius Pilate_ did live, and condemn innocent Lord _Christ_, to that heinous death of the cross. But because the house hath been since surrounded with high walls, we saw in the court (where the Soldiers did clothe our Lord _Christ_ with the purple cloak, and put upon his head the crown of thorns, and afterwards did spit upon him, and mock, beat and whip him) nothing remarkable, but only without a very old and high arch, like unto an arched bridge. This is almost black with age, and so artificially erected, that one can hardly find any juncture, where the stones are put together. This was the High Place, as it is said, before the Judgment Hall, whereon the condemned men use to be exposed to the sight of the people, because the _Jews_ durst not go into the House of Judicature at their high feasts, as _Easter_ and _Whitsuntide_ (as you may read in St _John_, chap. xviii.) that they might not make themselves unclean, but eat of the Paschal Lamb: Wherefore _Pilate_ did several times go out to the people to shew them our Lord _Christ_, and sit down in the Judgment seat, in a place that is called the Pavement, but in the Hebrew _Gabbatha_, as you read in St _John_, chap. xix. ver. 13. This arch is open at the top in the middle, and hath two other small arches about the wideness of an ordinary door one by the other supported by a marble column, in one of them stood _Christ_ with his crown of thorns on, and _Pontius Pilate_ in the other, when he said to the people, _Behold the man_.

Hard by at the other side of the arch, on the right hand, on an ascent, they shew the habitation of King _Herod_, which is still very fine, and gloriously built of marble. Wherefore, although it is not the same, which hath been burnt long agone by the _Jews_, and afterwards rooted out by the _Romans_, yet it is built in the same place, where the King’s palace did stand, on the height of mount _Bethzetha_, as _Josephus_ testifieth, from the north over against the temple, and the fort _Antonia_, where our dear Lord _Christ_ was mocked and abused by _Herod_ and his servants, and had a white garment put upon him, and so was sent back again to _Pilate_. In these habitations, chiefly those of _Pilate_, are still to this day, _Turkish_ magistrates, Sangiacks, Cadis, and Soubashaws dwelling, that keep courts of judicature there; and therefore nobody is admitted to come in before he hath gratified the master and servants. These magistrates are very severe, and punish their subjects for no great matter, either in their body or purse, or with a certain number of stripes, which they give with straps of rough neats leather upon the soles of their feet, fewer or more, in proportion to their committed crimes more or less; which sort of punishment is very common to all eastern countries. This sort of punishment is very ancient, and mention thereof is made in _Deuteronomy_ chap. xxv. ver. 2. ‘And it shall be, if the wicked man be worthy to be beaten, that the judge shall cause him to lie down, and to be beaten before his face, according to his fault by a certain number, forty stripes he may give him and not exceed; least if he should exceed, and beat him above these with many stripes, then thy brother should seem vile unto thee.’ So the holy Apostle St _Paul_ hath received them several times, whereof he maketh mention in II. _Corinthians_ chap. xi. ver. 23. where he saith, ‘I am in labours more abundant, in stripes above measure, in prisons more frequent, in deaths often. Of the _Jews_ five times received I forty stripes save one.’

When we came back from these habitations, we saw some more remarkable places, which are usually shewn unto pilgrims, some whereof are mentioned in Scripture, _viz._ the iron gate, through which the angel of the Lord did conduct St _Peter_ out of prison: The habitation of _Mary_ the mother of St _John_, where the holy Apostle _Peter_ did knock at the door: The temple of St _John_ the Evangelist, whereof the Knights of the order of St _John_ call themselves, and several others, which are for the most part fallen down, and lie in ruins. But because in these times, it is uncertain in what condition they were then, I also omit to say any more of them. After we had seen these two places with their habitations; we returned back again at night, according to the appointment of the father Guardian, to go with us into the temple of mount _Calvaria_.

CHAP. VIII.

_Of the Mount ~Calvaria~, and the Holy Grave of our Lord and Saviour ~Jesus Christ~._

On the 27th of _September_ in the year 1575 after dinner, the father Guardian did send to the other Lords of the temple, to let us into the temple of mount _Calvaria_, which the _Turks_ keep always locked up. But we and some other friars in their own habit, went with their father Guardian to the temple of the mount, which first of all the pious Queen _Hellen_, mother of the great Emperor _Constantine_ (after she had destroyed the temple of _Venus_ that was built upon the place of the grave) did build, as she did also build several churches in several places, _viz._ That at _Bethlehem_, where _Christ_ was born: That of the holy Apostle _James_ the Great, in the place of the upper town where he was beheaded: And another on the mount of Olives, where _Christ_ did ascend into heaven: As also another at _Bethania_, where _Christ_ did raise _Lazarus_ his dear friend from the dead, and in many other places, at _Nazareth_, and on the mount _Thabor_, &c. But when afterward the city of _Jerusalem_ was many times besieged, and at length taken from the Christians, by the unbelieving _Saracens_, _Hequen_ that malicious King of _Ægypt_, did in the year of Christ 1011, demolish these churches, and so they remained until after his decease his son _Daber_ came to the government, who afterwards in the year 37. did give leave to _Constantine_ the Emperor of _Constantinople_ (when he renewed with him their old correspondency) to rebuild it again at his own cost and charges. In these our times, when it remaineth in the possession of the _Turks_, free egress and regress is quite denied to the Christian Pilgrims that come to see the holy places: For when they saw that many Christians came yearly thither from all places, _viz._ From _Armenia_, _Æthiopia_, _Syria_, _Ægypt_, _Greece_, _Italy_, nay from all places of _Europe_, they have put a certain sum of money (according as they are near, or farther off, under his dominions or not) to be paid by them, to be admitted. For some pay two or three seckins or ducats, others four and five; but we that are outlandish, as _Italians_, _Frenchmen_, and _Germans_ (as well knowing we do not spare for money) must pay nine seckins a piece, and that without any remission, must be paid in weighty _Turkish_ or _Venetian_ ducats: And they keep the temple locked up close, until every one of them has paid their due: By these means the Grand Signior hath acquired himself a considerable yearly revenue, which amounts to several thousand ducats yearly. But yet it is now-a-days nothing near to what it hath been formerly, when all was under Popish darkness, and the Pilgrims used to flock thither in great numbers. For since in our time, by the Grace of God, the holy Gospel hath been brought to light again, and began to be preached, (which sheweth us a far nearer and better way to find Christ, and to have true and full pardon and remission of our sins) so that daily more come to the knowledge of the truth, and return to the Lord, his revenues decrease as much as the number of the Pilgrims that used to resort thither.

When we came pretty near to the temple, and expected to have seen mount _Calvaria_, the _Franciscans_ told us, that this mount, together with the holy grave, and the garden (wherein Christ did first appear unto _Mary Magdalen_) were intirely taken into the temple, so that no heigth at all was to be seen without.

Just when we came into the court of the temple there appeared an old heathenish prison, wherein are prisoners kept to this day, near which did stand the _Prison-gate_ (whereof we saw still some part of the wall up in the wall of the church) through which Christ did carry his cross to the place of sculls, which in former days was without the town, as you may clearly see in St _Mark_, chap. xvii. 20. where he writes: ‘And they led him out to crucify him.’ And in _Hebrews_, chap. xiii. 12. where it is plainly writ, that ‘Christ suffered without the gate.’ But when afterwards the Emperor _Adrian_ did rebuild and enlarge the desolated town, he did also surround with a wall the place where our Lord Jesus Christ did suffer, which was without towards the north-west, beyond the mount _Moria_, so that now it is situated almost in the middle of the city of _Jerusalem_, and because of this inlargement he call’d the town after his sir-name _Helia_.

We staying a great while at the gate, before they did open it unto us, several Oriential Christians, to wit, _Greeks_, _Jacobites_, _Armenians_, &c. came to us to visit their Priests, and to perform their devotion in it, so that about three-score went in with us.

The building of the temple is very large, of strong walls, and so thick, that it taketh away the Light within: it is richly covered with grey marble within and without, and supported by some marble pillars about a fathom and a half thick, so strongly, that one may conclude from thence, that neither labour nor costs were spared in it’s building. Yet the _Turks_, (notwithstanding the holy places and the costliness of the building) have in some places spoiled and demolished some part of the walls thereof, so that now they are no more like to the old ones that were before, and besides (as the Guardian told us) half of it is hardly remaining. Yet it is still very large, and so well closed up again, that one can hardly perceive the loss thereof.

As we went through, we passed by the grave of Christ, in a glorious large chapel, called our _Ladies_, which the _Franciscans_ have in possession, and is hung with tapestry very well wrought. Within it is a great altar, on each side whereof is to be seen a nick, artificially made of white marble, the windows whereof are very well guarded with iron bars: In that towards the left hand is kept a piece of the column whereon Christ was whip’d; it is of a reddish colour, three spans long, and four over. In the other on the right there is a small crucifix, in the middle whereof is in-laid a small piece of the true cross of Christ.

From thence we went farther into the vestry; which hath several large rooms, where we staid until the _Franciscans_ had put on their usual habits to go their rounds with us, and to shew us the holy places with the usual ceremonies. When they had made themselves ready we came out again into the church, and left the chancel of the _Græcians_, that is in the middle, and the holy grave upon our right hand, and went to the left to another chapel, whereby the _Græcians_ have an altar without, by which, in the marble floor, are two holes to be seen, wherein they pretend that Christ was detained prisoner until they had fixed the cross for him on the place of the sculls. This chapel is within very deep, and so dark, that when you go into it you believe that you go into a cave, where the _Romanists_ believe (as I understood by a _French man_ of their convent, who was in a Priest’s habit, and as we went about, standing before the altar, did tell us, what they had done to Christ our Lord, in every place) that they did detain Christ (as in a place where-into they threw their dust) to mock him, until his cross was got ready for him.

Just by the chapel behind the chancel they shew on a high arch another place, where the soldiers did share Christ’s cloaths amongst them, and cast lots for his coat.

Somewhat farther about they shew a pair of stairs of twenty nine steps, which we descended, and came into a great chapel of Queen _Helen_, situated underneath mount _Calvaria_, wherein is still towards the right hand of the altar, a glorious and beautiful high seat of marble whereon the Queen used to sit, when she had a mind to overlook the workmen, to see whether they went on right; for she loved building mightily, as appeareth still to this day by the number of her mighty buildings. Behind this seat are eleven steps, which go farther down mount _Calvaria_, where the cistern hath been, wherein Queen _Helen_ found the cross of Christ.

Underneath on the altar, ’tis true, there stands one, but it is new, and therefore to be supposed, to be put there of late years. At the bottom of the stairs do also appear very plainly the crack’d rocks, as it is mentioned in Scripture: _And the rocks rent._ And these rents or cracks are a foot wide, and so deep as to reach from the top to the bottom of the rocky mount of _Calvaria_.

When we came up into the church again, they shewed us at the bottom of mount _Calvaria_, a chapel that was locked up, and in it underneath the altar a large blackish stone with some reddish spots upon it, in the shape of a piece of a pillar, which was brought thither from _Pilate_’s house of Judicature, whereon our Lord did sit, when the soldiers did put the crown of thorns on his holy head, and did salute him as a King with their knees bended, and did also mock him, spit in his face, and whip him. This crown was twisted out of thorns, called by the _Arabians_, _Nausegi_ and _Athausegi_; and by the _Græcians_ and _Latanists_, which have kept the same name, _Rhamus_, whereof there are three sorts, the first of which is the true one (which is also common in _France_ and _Italy_) which doth not only grow without, but also within the town of _Jerusalem_ plentifully; this puts out early in the spring, into long, thin and pliable twigs, with a great many long and strong prickles. Just by it cometh out above from the chancel of the _Græcians_, a path up to mount _Calvaria_, which they forced from the _Georgians_, as they did before from the _Armenians_, by giving money to the _Turks_; which is very common in these countries; for if one hath any business to be done by the _Turks_, it cannot be easier obtained, than if you bribe them more than your adversary, wherefore it happeneth very often that such places are taken away from one nation, and given to the other.

Underneath this way or gallery you ascend nineteen steps to go up to the mount _Calvaria_, where we saw two chapels one behind the other, which were open, and had a very delicate floor, artificially inlaid with flowers of several colours, the like whereof is hardly to be seen any where else.

At the top of the stairs we left our shoes, and went in, and attended the Priest, who did also there, as he had done in other places before, give us a short account of what had been done to our Lord Jesus Christ in these places, _viz._ that in the hindmost chapel his hands and feet had been extended, and sharp nails drove through them, and so with a great deal of indignation he was fixed to the cross. And that in the foremost our Lord Christ did hang on the cross between the two malefactors, where there was still to be seen the hole wherein the cross of our Lord did stand. He also briefly repeated to us the seven words which he did say when he was upon the cross; and for a conclusion he told us, that his holiness the Pope had laid there indulgences for ever, for all sins and transgressions, to be distributed among the pilgrims.

When we had done we went farther into the chapel, and saw first a place two cubits high, which was also covered with fine ashen-coloured marble, watered with blue, in the middle whereof was a round hole about a span over, and was lined with tin, wherein did stand the cross of our Lord Christ, which is so closely tipped and lined, that the pilgrims can take neither much nor little of this, nor any other place, as the holy grave, or _Bethelem_ where Christ was born, _&c._ Wherefore notwithstanding the pretence of the _Franciscans_, that in their _Agnus Dei_’s and crucifixes are little pieces of the fore-mentioned places, it is all false and nothing of truth in it, which they must confess themselves, it being all covered with marble. Near to this hole, both to the right and left, where the crosses of the two thieves did stand, in the room of them two others are erected, where hard by that on the left at the inside, is to be seen a long and large fissure in the rock of the mount, which the Queen left on purpose open in the marble pavement, so that you may very plainly see it, and it goeth down very deep, as I have told you before.

When we came down again from the mount, and come out behind the chancel towards the gate of the great church, there lieth in the pavement a fine and large marble, which is surrounded, or taken in, with iron barrs in the same place, where _Joseph_ and _Nicodemus_, the two disciples of Christ, did wrap up the body of Christ, after it was taken down, in linnen with spices.

From thence as we went farther towards the grave of our Lord Christ, we left below towards the left on the place of sculls, another chapel, wherein are the graves of some Christian Kings, _viz._ _Gottofredi_, and _Baldewin_, _&c._ which took the Land of Promise by force from the Infidels, and came towards the right by the chancel of the _Greeks_ into a great round and high building of the holy grave, which butts upon the church, and is below towards it, it standing upon very strong double marble pillars, quite open: it is covered with lead, and hath at the top a great window, where the light falleth in, which is four fathom square, where underneath is the holy grave of our Lord Jesus Christ under the open sky, so that at all times, both rain, dew and snow fall upon it.

Before the passage into the Sepulchre is a small chapel, wherein is nothing of any moment to be seen, but a square stone, just before the door of the grave; this is of the true rock of the grave, about eight inches thick, whereon (as some say) the Angel of the Lord, that rolled back the stone from the door, did sit. This was also useful and did serve to keep the great grave-stone, that was before the door of the grave (which is hardly three foot high) steady, that it might not give backwards. That the door was but low, and that the stone did lean before it, you may sufficiently see out of the holy Evangelist St _Luke_, chap. xxiv. 12. when he saith: ‘Then arose _Peter_, and ran unto the Sepulchre, and stooping down, _&c._’ And also in St _John_, chap. xx. 11. where you read: ‘But _Mary_ stood without at the Sepulchre weeping: and as she wept, she stooped down, and looked into the Sepulchre.’ And also the holy Apostle and Evangelist St _John_ came before _Peter_ to the Sepulchre, and looked into it, and saw the linnen cloaths, but did not go in himself. And we read also of the door of the Sepulchre, and that the great stone before it used to be rolled. When you will go into the door you must stoop very much, and rather creep than go into it. The Sepulchre within is even with the floor of the chapel, and of the whole church, and is so large, that four persons may stand very easily by one another.

After the Priest had ended his speech which he made in the Sepulchre, of the Resurrection of Christ, which we heard without in the chapel, and had also proclaimed the Pope’s indulgences for ever, we went in also, and looked upon the rock whereout the Sepulchre was cut, and found it underneath on the right hand (altho’ it had been very much torn by the Infidels) still in very good order, so that we could discern it still distinctly, where now the monks have made an altar, and covered it with a large fair marble. Over it hung about twenty lamps, which made the Sepulchre (which else is very dark) very light; one whereof belongeth to the Catholic King of _Spain_, another to the Christian King of _France_, and others to other Princes; they look very carefully after them, because they bring them in a considerable revenue yearly. The holy Sepulchre is lined within and without with grey marble, and chiefly without some adorned with carved columns that stand between it.

On the outside of the door of the Sepulchre doth hang a fine golden piece, wherein our Lord Christ is very artificially wrought, as he did appear after his Resurrection unto _Mary Magdalen_ first, and afterwards also to the women: At the top of the Sepulchre is also a small round steeple, which is covered with lead, and upheld with six double marble columns: Besides this there is at the back of the Sepulchre another plain chapel, wherein the _Jacobites_, as I was informed, perform their Devotion.

More at the left hand, as we went out of the Sepulchre again, near to it in the pavement, are two large circles, rarely inlaid of _Mosaic_ work, in the middle whereof are two round stones of marble, one whereof is white, and the other red, lying in the same place of the garden, where _Mary Magdalen_ turned about, and took our Lord Jesus Christ to be the Gardener. Thus much I thought convenient to relate of these places that are shewn in the circuit.

When I found myself to be in those places where our dear Lord Christ did walk about, teach, and by his passion, death, resurrection and ascension work our redemption, and procure and purchase our salvation, from his heavenly father again, I did remember and rejoice at these incomparable benefits, and merciful treasures with all my heart; for it cannot otherwise be, but that every true Christian, that is upon this mount of _Calvaria_, and thinks there of the cross of Christ, and in the Sepulchre of his glorious resurrection, must find great passions within his breast; as you also read in the last chapter of St _Matthew_, vers. 8. of the women, where you find these words: ‘And they departed quickly from the sepulchre, with fear and great joy.’ This I found also in my heart and mind, so that it was, as if I saw our Lord Jesus Christ the Son of the Almighty God, to humble himself, and to become obedient to his heavenly Father, even to death, nay, to the death of the cross, to bring us miserable sinful men to rights again, and to deliver us clearly from all debts and punishments, and so to procure us the only and true indulgences.

After we had seen mount _Calvaria_, the Sepulchre of Christ our Lord, and other places, we went into the vestiary again to eat our supper.

After supper they led us up into the gallery, which is in the round building over-against the holy Sepulchre, to stay there all night; but some of the eastern Christians sung below in the church, others did grumble together, and play’d with their sweet-sounding cymbals, (which were made of pure metal about the bigness of a large wallnut-shell) so pleasant tunes or musick, that I rather look’d on them, and minded their musick than slept.

The next morning my comrades, after they had been at confession, and received the Sacrament upon mount _Calvaria_, came to me into the church again, with an intention to go round once more. So we saw the holy places once more, and at last also the chapel, which we left the day before at the foot of the hill on our left hand belonging to the _Grecians_; they let us in very willingly, because of our chaplain, who was also a _Grecian_, and shew’d us in it, at the farthest part where it was pretty dark, a large and deep crack of the rock; afterwards also on each side some fine and high tombs of some Kings, _viz._ that of _Gottefrid de Boulion_, and others, which were for some time possessed of the Land of Promise; these stand on delicate columns, cut out of curious grey marble, whereon are some epitaphs, which I thought to set down here underneath, together with a short relation when they did take the Land of Promise, and the famous city of _Jerusalem_, how long they were possessed of it, and how many Kings did succeed one another in it.

_Plants observed by Monsieur ~Belon~, to grow about some of the holy Places._

_Near ~Jerusalem~ on the ~Mounts~, ~Hills~, and ~Valleys~._