Chapter XVI: Section 1754: applies to all branches of the service, in Washington, D (7)

The accompanying planting tables, together with the frost-zone maps (figs. 9 and 10), are based upon records of the United States Weather Bureau covering a period of 20 years and are intended to serve as a guide for determining the earliest dates that the various garden crops may be planted in the spring; also the latest dates that it will be safe to plant certain crops and have them mature before the first killing frost in the autumn. It should be borne in mind that there is a difference of several days in the frost occurrence within each zone; this is due to differences in altitude and latitude, and also to the proximity of bodies of water and large tracts of timber.

EARLIEST PLANTING DATES

_Earliest safe dates for planting vegetables in the open in the zones shown in figure 9_

=============+=================+==================+=================+
Crop | Zone A | Zone B | Zone C |
-------------+-----------------+------------------+-----------------+
Bean{Lima |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
{Snap |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to 30 |
Beet |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Brussels | | | |
sprouts | do. | do. | do. |
Cabbage |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Jan. 15 to Feb. 15|Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Carrot |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Cauliflower | do. | do. | do. |
Celery | do. | do. | do. |
Chard | do. | do. | do. |
Collard |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Corn, sweet |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|Mar. 1 to 15. |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1|
Cucumber |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
Eggplant | do. | do. | do. |
Kale |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Kohl-rabi |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Lettuce{Head | do. | do. | do. |
{Leaf |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Melons |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
Okra, or | | | |
gumbo |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|Mar. 1 to Mar. 15 |Mar. 15 to 30 |
Onion sets |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Parsley |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Parsnip | do. | do. | do. |
Peas{Smooth |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
{Wrinkled|Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15 |
Peppers |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
Pota-{Irish |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
toes {Sweet |Mar. 1 to 15. |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15. |
Pumpkin | do. | do. | do. |
Radish |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
Salsify |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1 |Mar. 1 to 15. |
Spinach | do. | do. | do. |
Squash |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to 15 |
Tomato | do. | do. | do. |
Turnip |Jan. 1 to Feb. 1 |Feb. 1 to 15 |Feb. 15 to Mar. 1|
-------------+-----------------+------------------+-----------------+

=============+==================+==================+=================+
Crop | Zone D | Zone E | Zone F |
-------------+------------------+------------------+-----------------+
Bean{Lima |May 1 to 15 |May 15 to June 1 |May 15 to June 15|
{Snap |Apr. 1 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |May 15 to June 1 |
Beet |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Brussels | | | |
sprouts | do. | do. | do. |
Cabbage |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
Carrot |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Cauliflower | do. | do. | do. |
Celery | do. | do. | do. |
Chard | do. | do. | do. |
Collard |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15| ... |
Corn, sweet |Apr. 1 to May 1 |Apr. 15 to May 15 |May 1 to June 1 |
Cucumber |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |May 15 to June 15|
Eggplant | do. | do. | do. |
Kale |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
Kohl-rabi |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Lettuce{Head |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15| do. | do. |
{Leaf |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
Melons |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |June 1 to 15 |
Okra, or | | | |
gumbo | do. |May 1 to 15 |May 15 to June 1 |
Onion sets |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 1 to May 1 |
Parsley |Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Parsnip | do. | do. | do. |
Peas{Smooth |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
{Wrinkled|Mar. 15 to Apr. 1 |Apr. 1 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Peppers |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |June 1 to 15 |
Pota-{Irish |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
toes {Sweet |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |June 1 to 15 |
Pumpkin | do. | do. | do. |
Radish |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
Salsify |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to 15 |
Spinach | do. | do. | do. |
Squash |Apr. 15 to May 1 |May 1 to June 1 |June 1 to 15 |
Tomato | do. | do. |May 15 to June 15|
Turnip |Mar. 1 to 15 |Mar. 15 to Apr. 15|Apr. 15 to May 1 |
-------------+------------------+------------------+-----------------+

==============+==================
Crop | Zone G
--------------+------------------
Bean {Lima | ...
{Snap |May 15 to June 15.
Beet |May 15 to June 1.
Brussels |
sprouts | do.
Cabbage |May 1 to May 15.
Carrot |May 1 to June 1.
Cauliflower | do.
Celery | do.
Chard | do.
Collard | ...
Corn, sweet |May 15 to June 15.
Cucumber |June 1 to 15.
Eggplant | ...
Kale |May 1 to 15.
Kohl-rabi |May 15 to June 1.
Lettuce {Head | do.
{Leaf |May 1 to May 15.
Melons | ...
Okra, or gumbo| ...
Onion sets |May 1 to 15.
Parsley |May 15 to June 1.
Parsnip | do.
Peas {Smooth |May 1 to June 1.
{Wrinkled|May 15 to June 1.
Peppers | ...
Potatoes{Irish|May 1 to June 1.
{Sweet| ...
Pumpkin | ...
Radish |May 1 to 15.
Salsify |May 15 to June 1.
Spinach | do.
Squash | ...
Tomato |June 1 to 15.
Turnip |May 1 to 15.
--------------+------------------

Owing to the varied character of the Rocky Mountain and Pacific coast regions, it is not practicable to present the planting information in zone form, as there may be a very great difference in the dates of killing frosts in the same general locality on account of elevation. Gardeners on the Pacific coast should be guided by the experience of competent persons in their own neighborhood. The coast region of Oregon and Washington is so influenced by ocean currents that a separate map would have to be designed to meet its requirements. Sufficient data upon which to base a map for this region are not at hand.

In zones A, B, C, and parts of zone D of the eastern United States, cabbage, turnips, spinach, kale, collards, and certain varieties of onions may be grown in the open ground throughout the winter. In certain parts of zone E spinach and kale may be grown all winter. In zone F such crops as sweet potatoes, melons, eggplants, and peppers should be planted only under the most favorable conditions, as the season is sometimes too short for their full development under adverse conditions.

Garden plants are divided into about four more or less distinct groups.

Early cabbage plants, kale, onion sets, smooth peas, Irish potatoes, and radishes may be planted two weeks before the average date of the last killing frost.

Beets, Swiss chard, carrots, lettuce, wrinkled peas, cauliflower, spinach, and sweet corn may be planted about the date of the last killing frost.

LATEST PLANTING DATES

_Latest safe dates for planting vegetables for the fall garden in the zones[9] shown in figure 9_

============+========+=======+========+========+=======
Crop | Zone C | Zone D| Zone E | Zone F |Zone G
------------+--------+-------+--------+--------+-------
Bean: | | | | |
Pole Lima |Sept. 15|Aug. 1 |July 15 |July 1 | ...
Snap | do. |Sept. 1|Aug. 15 |Aug. 1 |July 15
Beet | do. | do. | do. | do. | do.
Cabbage |Sept. 1 |Aug. 15|July 15 |July 1 |June 15
Carrot | do. | do. | do. | do. | do.
Cauliflower | do. | do. | do. | do. | do.
Celery |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1|Aug. 1 | do. |May 15
Chard, Swiss|Sept. 15| do. |Aug. 15 |Aug. 1 |July 15
Corn, sweet |Aug. 15 |Aug. 1 |July 15 |July 1 |June 15
Cucumber | do. | do. | do. | do. | ...
Eggplant |July 15 |July 1 |June 15 |June 1 | ...
Kale |Nov. 1 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 15|Sept. 1 |Aug. 15
Lettuce | do. |Oct. 15|Oct. 1 |Sept. 15|Sept. 1
Melons: | | | | |
Muskmelon |June 15 |June 1 |May 15 |May 1 | ...
Watermelon|July 1 |July 1 |June 15 | ... | ...
Okra |July 15 | do. | do. |June 1 | ...
Onion sets | do. | do. | do. | do. |May 15
Parsley |Nov. 1 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1 |Aug. 1 |July 1
Parsnip | ... | ... |May 15 |May 1 |Apr. 15
Pea |Nov. 1 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1 |Aug. 1 |July 15
Peppers |July 15 |July 1 |June 15 |June 1 | ...
Potatoes: | | | | |
Irish |Aug. 15 |Aug. 1 |July 15 |July 1 |June 15
Sweet | do. |July 15|June 15 |May 1 | ...
Radish |Oct. 15 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 15|Sept. 1 |Aug. 15
Salsify |June 15 |June 1 |May 15 |May 1 |Apr. 15
Spinach |Oct. 5 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1 |Aug. 15 |Aug. 1
Squash: | | | | |
Bush |Aug. 15 |Aug.1 |July 15 |July 1 |June 15
Vine |July 15 |July 1 |June 15 |June 1 | ...
Tomato |Aug. 15 |July 15|July 1 |June 15 | ...
Turnip |Oct. 15 |Oct. 1 |Sept. 1 |Aug. 1 |July 15
------------+--------+-------+--------+--------+-------

[9] Zones A and B are sections in which many vegetables are planted
late in the fall to form the winter garden or early spring garden.

Beans, parsnips, salsify, melons, cucumbers, tomato, and sweet-potato plants may be planted after the last killing frost.

The heat-loving plants, such as peppers, eggplants, Lima beans, and the squashes, should not be planted in the open until the ground has thoroughly warmed, which will be about four weeks after the last killing frost.

There are a number of crops, such as snap beans, lettuce, radishes, and beets, that should be planted at intervals in order to insure a continuous supply throughout the season. In the case of snap beans as many as five different plantings may be had in some sections. In the southern part of the United States special attention should be given to the planting of the semihardy crops, such as spinach, kale, and cabbage, during the autumn, in order to have a supply throughout the winter.

By following the table showing the latest safe dates for planting (see also fig. 10), the various crops will mature during average years; however, there may be seasons when the first killing frost in the autumn occurs earlier than usual and some of the later plantings will be lost. The late planting of vegetables prolongs the season of usefulness and is worth a chance.

GENERAL CARE OF THE GARDEN

A garden bears close acquaintance, and the successful gardener is the one who keeps in close contact with his crops throughout the entire growing season. A visit to the garden during the early morning while the dew hangs heavily upon every plant will reveal the happenings of the night. Perhaps some insect attack has started or some injury has occurred which requires immediate attention. A garden requires a little attention almost every day and responds in direct proportion to the care bestowed upon it. The size of the garden should be such that its care will not prove a burden. A small garden intensively cultivated is much better than a larger one which is allowed to grow to weeds.

_Holding Moisture_

The frequent stirring of the surface soil with a steel rake, especially during dry weather, will stimulate the growth of the crops and control weeds. The surface should also be stirred after a rain just as soon as the ground is dry enough to work. Most people have an idea that the stirring of the soil is primarily in order to kill weeds, but there is equal need of it where no weeds are present. The roots of plants require air as well as moisture, and frequent stirring of the surface soil admits the air and at the same time conserves moisture. Shallow cultivation during dry weather forms what is known as a soil mulch, preventing the escape of moisture. Very often shallow cultivation during dry weather is more effective than irrigation.

_Watering_

Artificial watering, if properly applied, will prove a decided advantage during dry periods, but may prove an injury if not properly handled. Frequent light sprinkling of the garden is injurious. The proper method is to soak the soil thoroughly about once each week, preferably during the evening, and then loosen the surface by cultivation the following morning or as soon as the soil is dry enough to work. No more water should be applied until absolutely necessary; then another soaking should be given. On a small scale the water may be applied by means of a sprinkling can. Where available, a garden hose is effective, and overhead sprinkler systems are frequently employed to advantage. Perhaps the best method for applying the water is to open slight furrows alongside the rows of plants and allow the water to flow gently along these furrows.

After the water has all soaked into the soil the wet earth in the furrows should be covered with dry soil, to prevent baking. Where seeds are to be sown during a period of drought a slight furrow may be opened and filled with water; then, after the water has soaked into the soil, the seeds may be sown and covered with dry earth. This method will insure a good stand of plants, as the moisture feeds upward in the soil, like the oil in a lamp wick.

_Diseases and Insects_

Garden crops are subject to attack by a number of insects and diseases. Preventive measures are best, but if an attack occurs and the city gardener is not familiar with the insect or disease and the proper treatment to protect his crops he is advised to consult the local garden leader or write immediately to the Extension Division of the State College of Agriculture. The United States Department of Agriculture has a bulletin (Farmers’ Bulletin 856) which gives the necessary information on garden insects and diseases and can be procured free upon request.

In a number of cities the garden committees have arranged for sprayers and spray materials, and these are furnished to gardeners at actual cost. In a few instances power sprayers have been used, the work being done by city-park employees, the outfit being driven through the alleyways and the gardens reached by means of long leads of hose. In many cases the city-garden committees have provided a number of small compressed-air sprayers that can be carried by means of a strap over the shoulder of the operator. These are lent to the gardeners, who are also supplied with the necessary spray materials at cost and given full instructions regarding their application.

Poisons may be applied in a powdered form to a number of the garden crops, including Irish potatoes, by means of a small burlap or cheesecloth bag, the poison being dusted upon the plants when they have dew upon them. This can be done in the morning before the plants have dried or late in the evening after the dew has begun to form.

CROPS FOR THE CITY HOME GARDEN

As a rule not more than 10 or 12 different kinds of vegetables should be grown in the city home garden. These should be chosen from the standpoint of securing the greatest food value from a limited area. Certain of the very important food crops, such as Irish potatoes, peas, and sweet corn, require too much space for the small city garden, but should be included wherever the available space will permit.

Owing to the extreme variation of local conditions, no definite plan can be given for the city home garden, and each gardener will have to select the crops to be grown according to his soil, space, and the requirements of his family. By careful planning and by keeping every foot of garden space fully occupied a great quantity of produce can be secured from a comparatively small plat of ground. A succession of plantings of certain vegetables will produce a continuous supply while others may be grown between the main crops, thus making the land do double duty. There is a tendency on the part of many persons to plant too heavily to lettuce and radishes. As a matter of fact a supply of these vegetables can be grown in the rows between the plants or hills of other crops. Most beginners attempt too many varieties and kinds of vegetables. They would do better to confine themselves to a few standard sorts, leaving the novelties to those who have plenty of land and time at their disposal.

It is assumed that the average space available for the city vegetable garden will not exceed 80 by 60 feet. Many gardens in back yards are smaller, while others located on vacant lots may include one-fourth acre or more. The size of the garden will determine largely the crops to be grown. The following cultural directions are based on average conditions and are subject to some modification to suit the locality.

_Beans_

The bean crop stands at the head of the list in importance for the city garden, especially from the standpoint of producing a large quantity of food quickly on a limited space. The food value of the bean, in all forms, is also very high, and it may be grown under a wide range of conditions.

String beans, or snap beans in bush form, are the most popular for planting in the small garden. The seed should not be planted until the ground is fairly warm and the danger of frost safely passed. Stringless Green-Pod, Currie’s Rustproof Wax, and Refugee Wax are the leading early varieties of bush beans. Where space is limited the bush varieties can be planted in rows 24 inches apart, with the individual plants 3 or 4 inches apart in the row, or in hills 12 inches apart with four plants in a hill. Three, or even four, plantings at intervals of three or four weeks should be made, in order to insure a continuous supply. In sections of the country where the first autumn frost does not occur until about the first of October a late or fall crop of snap beans can be grown to advantage, the seed being planted about the first week in August.

A half pint of seed of snap beans will plant about 100 feet of row with five seeds to a hill and the hills 12 inches apart. A hundred feet of row will be sufficient for one planting to supply the average family. If four plantings are made 1 quart of seed will be required.

Pole or climbing beans should be planted in every garden where space will permit. The variety known as Kentucky Wonder produces a plentiful supply that can be eaten pod and all while they are tender, as shelled beans when more mature, and as dry beans after they ripen. Pole or climbing Lima beans are adapted to a wide range of territory and can often be grown on a division fence, on a trellis covering the kitchen porch, or on an outbuilding. Figure 11 shows a street fence which is being made to support a splendid crop of Lima beans. Bush Lima beans are more limited in their soil and climatic requirements, but are considered by many persons to be of finer quality than the pole varieties.

Lima beans require a richer soil than string or snap beans, and the seed should not be planted until the ground is quite warm, fully a week later than snap beans. All beans should be planted comparatively shallow, especially on clay or heavy soils. On light or sandy soils beans may be covered from 1¹⁄₄ to 2 inches. Beans will not start well if planted in wet soil or if covered too deeply.

In case the soil should become packed by heavy rains before the plants appear it is a good plan to break the crust over the row by means of a steel rake, great care being taken that the rake teeth do not go deep enough to injure the sprouting beans. Beans should be cultivated and hoed at least once a week, but they should not be worked when their leaves are wet with dew or rain, as this has a tendency to cause them to rust. In case more beans are grown than are required for summer use, the young tender pods may be canned for winter. Any beans that become too old for immediate use should be allowed to ripen and be saved for planting the next season or for cooking as dry beans. Colored dry beans are as good as white, both in flavor and nutritive value, in spite of a rather general popular belief to the contrary, and none of them should be wasted.

_Root Crops_

The root crops, including beets, carrots, parsnips, salsify, turnips, and radishes, form a group of very important food crops for the small garden. The soil requirements and general culture are very much the same for all the root crops, and for that reason they are considered collectively. The soil for root crops should be quite rich, and it should also be spaded or plowed deep and made fine and mellow the full depth that is broken. These root crops will all withstand slight frosts and may be planted very early in the spring. Root crops are especially desirable for the small garden on account of the fact that the rows may be as close together as 12 or 14 inches and the plants 3 or 4 inches apart in the row, making it possible to grow a large quantity of food on a small tract.

_Beets_

An ounce of beet seed will be sufficient for the ordinary city garden. Beets may be planted almost as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring. Make the soil fine and mellow; then lay off the row about 1 inch deep, using the hoe handle to make the little furrow. What are commonly called beet seeds are really seed balls, each containing two or three seeds, and for that reason too many should not be put in. Eight or ten to the foot of row are sufficient. Cover the seeds about 1 inch and rake the surface smooth over the row. If the seeds are good and the weather favorable the plants should appear in about 10 days after planting. They should be thinned to about 3 inches in the row, but if not too thick to start with they may be allowed to reach a height of about 3 or 4 inches before thinning, and the thinnings may be used for beet greens. Any skips or spaces can be filled in by transplanting plants that are removed from other parts of the row. A row 50 feet long will furnish enough early beets to supply the ordinary family. A second planting may be made about four week after the first. A late planting should be made about six or eight weeks before the first autumn frosts. Any beets that are left in the garden at the end of the season should be stored for winter use.

Crosby’s Egyptian and Blood Turnip are considered among the best varieties for the home garden.

_Carrots_

One-fourth ounce of carrot seed will be more than enough to plant 50 feet of row early in the spring and to make another similar planting later for fall use and storage. Plant the seeds rather thickly, 20 or 30 to the foot, and cover them with about half an inch of light soil, but not more than one-fourth of an inch in heavy soil. Thin to 2 or 2¹⁄₂ inches in the row as soon as they are large enough to handle. If desired, the plants may be left a little closer, then thinned a second time when the first of the young carrots are about half an inch in diameter. The young carrots that are thinned out may be used on the table as creamed baby carrots and are very fine. Late-planted carrots may remain in the ground until after the first frosts of autumn and then dug, topped, and stored for winter use.

Oxheart and Danvers Half-Long are leading varieties.

_Parsnips_

A 10-cent packet, or about one-eighth of an ounce, of parsnip seed will be sufficient to plant for the ordinary family. Be sure that the seed is fresh, as it loses its vitality if kept over until the second year. Plant the same as carrots, and thin to 3 or 4 inches in the row. Parsnips require a deeply prepared and a very rich soil for their best development.

Parsnips may remain in the ground where grown during the winter or until wanted. It may be best, however, to dig part of the roots late in the fall before the ground freezes and store them for winter use.

In the North parsnips are planted quite early and given the entire season to develop and are used mainly during the winter and spring. In the South they may be planted quite early and used as a spring vegetable; then another planting is made for a fall crop. The later planting is usually made in August or September, when the late summer rains occur.

Hollow Crown and Guernsey are among the best varieties.

_Salsify, or Vegetable Oyster_

Salsify requires practically the same cultural treatment as parsnips. It is not grown extensively in the home gardens of the Southern States, but is primarily a northern crop. Salsify may remain in the ground during the winter, or a part may be dug late in the fall and stored in a bed or box of moist sand for winter use.

The Sandwich Island is the leading variety.

_Turnips_

Throughout the Northern States turnips are planted as a late-season crop, the seed being sown from July 10 to 25 and the crop harvested after the first heavy frosts. In the Southern States turnips are planted in the spring, just as soon as the ground can be worked, and the crop is used before the hot weather of summer comes on. A late crop is frequently planted in September, the roots being cooked in the usual manner, while the young tender tops are boiled as greens.

For the small garden, turnips had best be planted in drills, with the rows about 12 inches apart, and the plants should be thinned to 2 or 2¹⁄₂ inches in the row. The seed should be scattered very thinly in the drill and covered very lightly. The plants removed in thinning may be used as greens. Turnips will withstand some frost, but their keeping qualities are injured if allowed to freeze before pulling. If they become frozen in the storage pit they should not be disturbed until the weather warms and the frost gradually draws out of them. For best results turnips should not actually freeze at any time.

The Purple-Top Strap-Leaved is a leading variety.

_Radishes_

Radishes are mentioned last in the list of root crops because they have the least real food value of any. Everybody wants a few early radishes in the garden, because they come to maturity quickly and furnish something green and succulent for the table. From 10 to 20 feet of row will produce all the radishes required by a family. The seeds should be sown in a little furrow or drill, about 12 or 15 seeds to the foot, and covered 1 inch. Radishes may also be sown thinly in the drill with beets, carrots, or parsnips, as they come quickly and break the surface for the other seedlings. The radishes should be pulled before they are large enough to injure the regular crop.

The Scarlet Globe White-Tipped, French Breakfast, Icicle, Philadelphia White Box, and Early Yellow Turnip are among the leading varieties.

Where it is desirable to have radishes for a considerable period of time, two, or even three, plantings at intervals of two weeks should be made, or the same result may be obtained by the proper selection of varieties. There are also two or three varieties of winter radishes that may be grown for winter use.

_Tomatoes_

Tomatoes are among the most universally used products of our home gardens, and there should be a few plants, no matter how small the garden. In order to have tomatoes early, the seed must be sown in the house or hotbed or the plants purchased from some plant grower who has the facilities for starting them early. Bonnie Best, Early Jewel, Acme, Globe, and Detroit are among the leading early sorts, while Improved Stone and Trophy are standard late varieties. Two small packets of seeds, one of an early and one of a late variety, will produce enough plants for several family gardens, and it may be possible for one person to start the plants for an entire neighborhood. If a window box is used for starting early plants of various kinds, a portion of the space in this box should be used for the tomato plants. Where a window box is not in use a cigar box filled with loose soil will serve as a seed bed, but the plants will have to be transplanted and given about 3 inches of space both ways as soon as they form one or two true leaves in addition to their two small seed leaves. Tomato seed comes up in about five or six days, and the seedlings will ordinarily be ready for transplanting in two weeks after the seed is sown. About six weeks will be required for growing the plants from the time of sowing the seed until they are ready for setting in the garden.

A tray of fine, rich soil about 8 inches deep placed in a south window of a living room makes a good transplanting bed. The plants can be grown in quart berry boxes, in 3-inch flowerpots, in tin cans with a few holes punched in their bottoms, or in paper bands. The essentials are to keep the plants growing rapidly from the start and to retain all the dirt attached to their roots when setting them in the garden.

The best method of growing tomatoes in the city home garden is by pruning the plants to a single stem, or at most to two stems, and tying them to stakes or a trellis, as shown in figure 12. By this method the plants can be set as close as 2 feet apart in each direction. When tied to stakes the plants are easy to cultivate. The fruit is clean because it is kept off the ground, and the tomatoes ripen earlier than when the plants are not pruned or tied to stakes. Any stakes that are about 1¹⁄₂ inches in diameter and 4 to 5 feet long will answer. Frequently the plants are trained to horizontal wires stretched on small posts or to a trellis made of laths.

The tomato plants are pruned by pinching out the side shoots (fig. 12) as they appear in the axis of the leaf, that is, where it joins the main stem. The fruit clusters appear on the opposite side of the stem where there is no leaf. The plants are tied to the stakes or other support by means of soft twine or with small strips of old cotton goods. (Fig. 13.) Seedsmen have on sale a jute string which is especially made for tying tomatoes. Loop the string around the stake so that it will not slip downward on the stake and then tie loosely below a leaf node in such a manner that the stem will be supported without the string binding it and injuring its growth. Four to seven fruit clusters will be formed on each plant, and if the plants are well cultivated and cared for they will continue to bear fruit throughout the season in the northern parts of the country. In the South, where the heat of midsummer kills tomato plants, a late crop may be planted for fall use.

_Sweet Peppers_

Sweet or Mango peppers are increasing in favor with home gardeners everywhere. Six or eight good plants will supply enough for an ordinary family. In the North, where the growing season is short, the plants must be started indoors and should be transplanted twice, so as to be quite large by the time the weather is warm enough to set them in the garden. Pepper plants will not withstand any frost, and they should not be set out until all danger is past. In the South the seed should be sown in the house or in a hotbed and may be transplanted directly from the seed bed to the garden, although better plants will be obtained if they are transplanted first from the seed bed to other boxes or to the hotbed and later to the garden. The plants should be handled in the same manner as tomatoes, but pepper plants are even more delicate.

The Ruby King and Chinese Giant are standard varieties of the large sweet peppers. Pimento peppers are becoming very popular throughout the Southern States; however, they will not mature where the frost-free growing season is less than 4¹⁄₂ months and are not profitable unless they have at least 5 months of warm weather for their development. The pimento is adapted to the South, where the summers are long, with plenty of hot weather. The green pimento peppers have a thick flesh and a pleasant flavor and may be used like any sweet pepper. When red ripe the pimentos are canned for winter salads and for mixing with cheese to make pimento cheese.

_Eggplant_

The seeds of eggplant should be sown indoors at the same time that early tomatoes and peppers are planted. The small plants should be transplanted to pots or paper bands and kept in the house until the weather is quite warm. The plants require a rich, deep soil, with plenty of fertilizer. They should be set about 2¹⁄₂ feet apart each way. Six to ten plants will be sufficient to supply the average family.

_Okra, or Gumbo_

Okra is sown in the open after danger of frost is over and the soil becomes quite warm, but in the North a few plants for the home garden may be started indoors. like tomatoes or peppers. Sow the seed a few inches apart in the row and thin the plants to 18 inches to 2 feet apart. Okra is very prolific, and 8 or 10 feet of row will supply the needs of an average family. Give frequent shallow cultivation until the plants are nearly grown.

The pods are the part of the plant used for food and should be gathered while still crisp and tender. If the pods are removed so as to allow none to ripen, the plants will continue to bear until killed by frost.

The White Velvet, Dwarf Green Prolific, Perkins Mammoth, Long-Podded, and Lady Finger varieties are recommended.

_Onions_

The usual method of growing onions in the home garden is to plant a quart or two of sets just as early in the spring as the ground can be worked. Throughout the South the sets may be planted in the autumn and the surface of the ground mulched with fine straw or light manure over the winter. Onions may also be grown from seed, sown in the early autumn in the South and early spring in the North, but as a rule it is more satisfactory to secure a few sets for planting.

Onions require a light, mellow, rich soil. If planted in rows the sets (fig. 14) should be placed by hand, root end downward, about 4 inches apart in the row and covered to a depth of 1 inch. If planted in a bed they should be spaced 4 to 6 inches apart in each direction. As a rule, onion sets are not sold under variety names, but are classed as white, brown, or red.

The Yellow Globe, Yellow Danvers, Red Wethersfield, and Silverskin are among the leading varieties that are planted from seed. The Crystal Wax and Red Bermuda varieties of the Bermuda type are often grown in the Southern States.

Where wanted for green onions, the sets may be planted as a filler in the rows with early tomatoes, but where mature onions are desired it is best to plant them alone. Fully grown onions should not be pulled until the tops have broken over and partially ripened. The bulbs should then be pulled and spread in a cool, dry place (fig. 15) where they will get plenty of air. The mature onions should be kept where it is quite cool and dry. Slight freezing will not hurt the stored onions if they are not disturbed while frozen.

_Cabbage Group_

The cabbage group of garden plants includes both the early and the late types of cabbage, cauliflower, kale, collards, and Brussels sprouts. The general cultivation of each member of this group is practically the same. They are natives of low-lying seacoast regions and require deep, moist, and rather rich soil for their best development. The various members of the cabbage group, however, may be grown in almost any locality; in fact, cabbage is one of the most universally grown of our garden crops. The important consideration is to have plenty of plant food in the soil so that they will make a quick, tender growth.

_Early Cabbage_

Only a few heads of early cabbage should be grown in a small city garden. The plants should be started indoors, but may be set in the garden quite early if hardened off a little before setting them. In certain sections of the South, especially near the seacoast, the early varieties of cabbage may be started in October, planted out in November, and matured in April or May of the following spring. The Jersey Wakefield and Charleston Wakefield are the leading early varieties. They may be set in rows 24 to 30 inches apart and 15 inches apart in the row.

_Late Cabbage_

Late cabbage can be planted between the rows of early potatoes or after snap beans, so that double service may be obtained from the soil. Late cabbage may be planted July 1 in some sections of the North and will form solid heads before the weather becomes cold enough to injure the crop. The Late Flat Dutch, Danish Baldhead, and Copenhagen are among the best late varieties. They should be planted in rows 36 inches apart and 18 inches apart in the row. Cabbage may be stored in a cool, dry, well-ventilated cellar or buried in an outdoor pit in the garden.

_Cauliflower_

Cauliflower is much more difficult to grow than cabbage and is only adapted to certain soil and climatic conditions which are to be found near the seacoast and limited inland areas. The important consideration in growing a spring crop of cauliflower is to have it so early that the heads will be formed before the extremely hot weather begins. The methods of starting the plants and general culture are the same as for early cabbage. When the heads begin to form, the leaves should be brought together above the heads and fastened by means of a string, so as to shut out the sunlight and retain the snowy whiteness of the heads. A fall crop of cauliflower can be grown in the same manner as late cabbage. Cauliflower can not be stored to advantage, but must be used within a few days after it is gathered.

_Kale_

Kale can be grown either as a spring or fall crop, and in sections where the temperature does not go below zero during the winter it can be planted in the fall and will be ready for use during March and April. The market gardeners around Norfolk, Va., grow great fields of winter kale, planting the seed in September and cutting the crop at any time during the winter when the ground is free from snow and ice. About 50 or 60 feet of row in the home garden may be planted during the late summer for fall and early winter use. Kale is not stored, but is left growing until wanted for use.

_Collards_

No southern garden would be quite complete without a small plat of collards for late fall and early winter use. Collards are a hardy form of cabbage which forms a loose head or cluster of very tender leaves that are used in much the same manner as cabbage. Throughout the South collards are planted during the latter part of the summer and the plants are left standing where grown, like late cabbage, and are quite hardy; in fact, it is claimed that the flavor is greatly improved by a slight freezing of the heads. Collards are not recommended for planting in the Northern States. A small packet of seed is all that is necessary to start the plants required in a family garden.

_Brussels Sprouts_

Brussels sprouts are a kind of cabbage that forms a large number of buttons or small heads along its stem where the leaves are attached. The culture of Brussels sprouts is the same as that of cabbage except that the leaves are removed from the lower part of the stem to give the buttons more room to develop.

_Kohl-Rabi_

Kohl-rabi is a near relative of cabbage. It forms an enlargement of the stem just above the surface of the ground. This portion is used in the same way as turnips.

_Salad Plants_

As a general rule, the American people do not eat enough green vegetables, commonly referred to as salads. Crops of this class are especially adapted to the small garden, as they occupy very little space and will withstand more or less shading. The salad plants require a deep, rich soil with plenty of moisture. They also thrive under comparatively cool conditions.

_Swiss Chard_

Swiss chard resembles the common garden beet in appearance, but it does not form an edible root, like the beet, and is grown for its large leaf stems, which are boiled for greens. Americans do not as a rule eat enough greens, and there is need to encourage the planting in the home garden of Swiss chard and other crops that may be used for this purpose. Beet tops while young and tender make good greens, but the leaf stems of Swiss chard have a very excellent flavor and remain tender a long time. As the outer leaf stems are removed the plants keep on forming new leaves in the center, so that a continuous supply is provided.

Swiss chard is planted and cultivated the same as garden beets. One-half ounce of seed will be sufficient for the ordinary family of five persons. The variety known as Lucullus is considered best. Plant in the early spring the same as beets, and thin the plants to about 6 inches in the row.

_Spinach_

Spinach is another crop that is highly desirable for use as greens. Spinach thrives in cool weather and should be grown both as a spring and as a fall crop. In the extreme northern part of the country only one crop may be grown. In sections where the winters are mild the seed can be planted in the fall and the plants can remain in the ground all winter. For a spring crop, plant in the open ground as soon as the soil can be worked. The rows may be as close as 7 inches, and 12 to 15 seeds should be sown to a foot of row, the plants being thinned so that they will have 1¹⁄₂ to 2 inches of space for their development.

Spinach requires a very rich soil in order to make it grow quickly. A bed 5 feet wide and 30 feet in length and having about eight rows running the length of the bed will furnish enough spinach for the ordinary family. The entire spinach plant is removed by cutting just above the surface of the ground. From 2 to 3 ounces of seed will be sufficient for a bed 5 by 30 feet in size. Spinach contains large quantities of iron and is especially desirable as a part of the diet in the early spring.

_Celery_

There is nothing particularly difficult about growing celery after the plants are started. The celery seed bed requires very careful watering until the plants are up and large enough to transplant. As a rule, it will be best for city gardeners to purchase plants that are ready for setting in the garden. Celery requires a rich soil and plenty of moisture.

Anyone desiring to grow it should write to the United States Department of Agriculture for a copy of the Farmers’ Bulletin on celery (No. 282), which gives full directions for growing the crop.

The White Plume, Golden Self-Blanching, and Boston Market are among the best varieties for the home garden.

_Lettuce_

No early garden would be complete without at least a bed of lettuce; however, only a small space is necessary to grow plenty for the average family. In the old-fashioned garden a small bed was spaded in one corner and the seed sown broadcast and raked into the soil just as soon as the ground was dry enough to work in the spring. As the plants grew and began to crowd each other, they were thinned and those that were pulled out were used on the table. Later, when the plants became larger, they were cut off just above the ground.

Lettuce requires very rich soil and plenty of moisture, and will not withstand continued hot weather. It can be grown in partial shade and is one of the few crops that can be planted in back-yard gardens that are shaded a portion of the time. A 5-cent packet of seed will produce all the plants required for the small garden. A good method is to sow the seed in a box in the house and transplant the small plants to a bed or to rows in the garden. Lettuce is not injured by a light frost, especially if the plants have been grown in the open. The seed or plants may be planted between other crops that require a longer period for their development than the lettuce. Two plantings should be made in the spring and one in the late summer, in order to have a supply for a considerable period.

Grand Rapids is the leading variety of loose-leaf lettuce, while the Big Boston, Iceberg, and California Cream Butter are good heading sorts.

_Vegetables That Require Considerable Space in the Garden_

There are a number of garden vegetables that require too much space for growing in the small home garden. Wherever plenty of land is available these vegetables should be grown. Among those included in this group are Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, peas, sweet corn, squashes, cantaloupes, and watermelons.

_Irish Potatoes_

Irish potatoes are among the first crops that can be planted in a home garden. They have no place in a small garden, but where a space as great as 30 by 60 feet is available they should be included. A peck of seed potatoes, properly cut, will plant 300 feet of row and should yield 4 to 5 bushels. The usual method is to cut the seed, two eyes to each piece, dividing the fleshy part of the potato as equally as possible. The seed should not be cut until the ground is all ready to receive it. Great care should be taken to get seed that is free from scab or other diseases.

Irish potatoes can be planted in the North just as soon as the frost is all out of the ground and the soil dry enough to work. In the South the planting date will be governed by the season and the time that the young plants will be safe from spring freezes. It generally takes three to five weeks after planting in the Southern States for the potatoes to come up. In the North they will appear in a shorter period if weather conditions are favorable.

_Peas_

Peas, often called English peas, require considerable space and should not be planted in a small garden. In order to be of real value at least 15 feet of row should be planted for each person in the family. Peas are the first crop that can be planted in the spring. In the North, this planting can be made just as soon as the ground can be worked, and two, or even three, plantings should be made in order to have a continuous supply. In the South, peas are planted about the same time as early Irish potatoes or a little earlier.

Peas require a rather rich soil with a little fertilizer added, as they make a quick growth. One pint of seed will plant 75 to 85 feet of row, and this should yield plenty of peas for five persons at each of four or five pickings. First, spade and rake the ground until it is fine and mellow; then open a furrow 3 to 4 inches deep with the corner of a hoe. Scatter the seeds broadcast in the bottom of the furrow or space them at the rate of 12 to 15 peas to a foot and cover them 3 to 4 inches deep. In heavy soils the seeds should not be covered so deeply as in light or sandy soils. If the ground is cold the seeds may be 10 days or two weeks in coming up, and if there should be a heavy rain meantime the crust forming on the surface of the soil should be carefully broken over the rows with a steel rake.

Extra Early Alaska, Gradus, and Thomas Laxton are among the leading early sorts. The Champion of England and Telephone are considered good medium and late varieties.

The extra-early sorts may be planted with the rows as close as 24 inches apart where hand cultivation is practiced. The later and larger growing varieties require a space of about 3 feet between the rows. There should not be more than 10 days or two weeks’ difference between the planting dates of early and of late varieties of peas, as the late ones mature more slowly than the early sorts.

Several of the early varieties of peas can be grown without supports, but they do better if given something to climb on. The late varieties for the most part make a strong growth and require supports. Brush, where it may be had, woven-wire netting, a wire fence, or strings on stakes make satisfactory supports for peas. (Fig. 16.) The supports should be in place when the peas come up, in order that the plants may climb them from the first. Early spring peas occupy the land a comparatively short time and may be followed by late cabbage, beets, turnips, kale, spinach, or some other crop. A planting of peas made late in the summer will often give a fine fall crop that is ready for use just before frost in the autumn.

_Sweet Corn_