Chapter X: Appendix: 301 (10)

You know that ZEITZ is a Town which has always been the Appenage of a Branch of the _Saxon_ Family: The last Duke that was in Possession of it marry'd a Princess of _Brandenbourg_, Sister of our late King. That Duke chang'd his Religion twice towards the Close of his Life: The first time he turn'd _Catholic_, in Imitation of his Brother the Cardinal of _Saxe_; and the second time he return'd to the _Lutheran_ Religion, in which he had been educated: As he left but one Daughter, who was marry'd to Prince _William_ of _Hesse-Cassel_, his Dominions ought to have fallen to the Cardinal, and to one of his Nephews; but they being both of them _Catholics_, are disinherited by virtue of an Article of the Treaty of _Westphalia_: Mean time the King of _Poland_, who is a _Catholic_, seiz'd them, and continues Master of them, so that those Dominions are govern'd by a Regency, which receives its Orders from _Dresden_: The King of _Poland_ made an Accommodation with the Cardinal and the young Prince, by giving each of them a Sum of Money, and engaging moreover to pay the late Duke's Debts.

* * * * *

From _Zeitz_ I went to HOFF, the first Town in the Marquisate of _Brandenbourg-Bareith_, from whence I proceeded to _Bareith_, the Capital of the Margraviate of that Name, and from thence to _Erlangen_: Of both these Towns I shall have occasion to make Mention hereafter: From _Erlangen_ I went to NUREMBERG[33], which passes for the best built City in all _Germany_: The Houses are all very beautiful, lofty, and perfectly lightsome, and most of them are painted on the Outside, like those of _Augsbourg_: The Town-house, in which the Senate assembles, is a Structure remarkably beautiful, is very large, and completely well built: The principal Front is adorn'd by Three great Portico's with Marble Pillars: The Inside is every whit answerable to the Magnificence of the Outside, there being very fine Rooms in it, adorn'd with noble Paintings.

The Territory of _Nuremberg_ is considerable, there being several Towns and Villages depending on it: The _Brandenbourg_ Family have had frequent Disputes with the Republic on account of some Lands, that they claim for their Appurtenances; upon which Blood has been spilt more than once; nay, in the Reign of the Emperor _Frederic_ III. there was actually an open War upon that Occasion: At present _Nuremberg_ is secure against any manner of Insult; it having good Ramparts, an Arsenal well furnish'd, and a numerous Garison.

* * * * *

After I had stay'd Two Days at _Nuremberg_, I set out for AICHSTEDT, which is the See of a Bishop, who is Prince of the Empire: I had the Honour of waiting on the then Bishop of the See, who was of the Family of the Barons of _Knebel_ of _Katzenellebogen_, and a Prelate not only of a noble Extraction, but extraordinary Merit: Having a Letter of Recommendation to him, I desir'd Audience of him, and he granted it to me with great Marks of Distinction; for he sent me one of his Coaches, and gave me the most civil Reception in the World: Being at that time violently afflicted with the Gout, he was seated, and made me sit down likewise; and after a good deal of Discourse, he invited me to Supper: The Supper was attended by a Concert, which his Musicians came to perform in his Chamber: It was a very numerous Band, and perfectly well adapted: I made my Court to him for the Five or Six Days that I stay'd at _Aichstedt_, and when I went away, he made me a Present of a Gold Snuffbox, which weigh'd 25 Ducats: He took it out of a Cabinet that he shew'd me, in which I observ'd a great many very valuable Jewels, particularly a Diamond Cross, reckon'd worth between 5 and 600,000 Florins: This Prelate had moreover the Complaisance to defray my Expences at my Inn, so that when I came to call for the Reckoning, I was very much surpriz'd to find that I had been beholden to the Prince to clear it.

* * * * *

At my Departure from _Aichstedt_ I took the direct Road to _Ratisbon_, which carry'd me thro' INGOLSTADT, a strong Place of _Bavaria_: It serv'd for the Residence of several Dukes of _Bavaria_, whose Castle is still to be seen, where lives the Governor, who is always a General Officer of the Elector's Troops.

From _Ingolstadt_ Half a Day's Journey brought me to RATISBON, an Imperial City of _Bavaria_, and a Suffragan Bishoprick of _Saltzbourg_: There I found the Cardinal of _Saxe_, who was come thither to preside at the Dyet, in quality of the Emperor's Commissary: He had for his Adjunct the Baron _de Kirchner_, who had the Title of Joint Commissioner at the Dyet, and had the Care of all Affairs: This Post of Commissioner at the Dyet is the most honourable that the Emperor has in his Nomination; insomuch that a Commissioner does not yield Precedence to an Elector; and his very Instructions import, that if a King comes to _Ratisbon_, he must not yield him the Preference: The Cardinal of _Lamberg_, who was the Cardinal of _Saxe_'s Predecessor in the Post of Commissioner at the Dyet, had some Broil with the Electors, and with the Court of _Vienna_, because he gave way to the Duke of _Lorrain_: This Prince passing thro' _Ratisbon_ to take Possession of his Dominions, after the Treaty of _Ryswick_, sent Notice to the Cardinal of his Arrival, upon which he went immediately, and pay'd his Royal Highness a Visit, invited him to dine at his House, sent his Coaches for the Duke, and gave him the Right Hand upon all Occasions: Of this the Electors Envoys complain'd; but the Cardinal, not much intoxicated with his Dignity, made them Answer, That he thought it was a Deference which he ow'd to the Duke of _Lorrain_, not as a Sovereign Prince, but as the Emperor's Nephew: He made Use of the same Argument at the Court of _Vienna_, where, tho' for that one time only, his Conduct was approv'd.

This is not the only Prerogative enjoy'd by the Commissioner to the Dyet: He has a Right to have Guards, and is commonly serv'd by Gentlemen: When an Electoral Minister repairs to the Cardinal for Audience, he is receiv'd as he alights out of his Coach by Four Gentlemen, who conduct him to the Chamber of Audience; There's a Guard-Room, in which there are 50 Soldiers, always drawn up in a Line with Muskets on their Shoulders: Next to this Room is the Chamber of Audience: When the Minister enters it, the Commissioner advances half way to meet him; They then sit down in Two Chairs of State, under the same Canopy; in such manner that the Commissioner is placed in the middle, and the Envoy's almost over against him, but a little to one Side, so that it stands partly upon the Carpet, with the Back turn'd half way towards the Door. When the Audience is over, the Commissioner accompanies the Envoy half way out of the Chamber, from whence Four Gentlemen reconduct him to his Coach: The Envoys of the Princes are only receiv'd by Three Gentlemen. The Commissioner expects them in the Chamber of Audience standing, and leaning upon a Table, which is under a Canopy, with a Chair of State by his Side: When the Envoy is enter'd, the Commissioner sits down, and puts on his Hat, and the Envoy does the same: His Chair of State stands over-against the Commissioner's, with its Back turn'd towards the Door, and plac'd in such a manner, that the Envoy's Feet do but barely touch the Commissioner's Carpet: When the Audience is ended, Three Gentlemen reconduct the Envoy to his Coach: The Deputies of the Free States of the Empire have a Chair with only a Back, and no Arms to it, when they have Audience of the Commissioner, and only one Gentleman receives and reconducts them.

When the Commissioner gives any public Feast, he must send an Invitation to the Ministers of the Electors and of the Princes Three Days before-hand; and the Table must be plac'd under a Canopy, where the Commissioner has the chief Seat; and the Ministers place themselves on his Right and Left, according to the Rank of their Masters.

I had the Honour to pay my Respects to the Cardinal Commissioner, who receiv'd me with all the Good-nature possible, and talk'd to me in such a manner, as gave me Hopes of Success: The Envoys of the Princes spoke to him also in my Favour, and they thought him well dispos'd to serve me: I remain'd thus Four Months at _Ratisbon_ in continual Hopes, but still without seeing my Affairs settled: I was resolv'd to be somewhat urgent with him, that I might know without Delay what I had to depend upon: The Cardinal was so good as not to refuse me to my Face, but he sent me Word by one of the Elector's Envoys, who spoke to me for him, that 'twas in vain for me to stay at _Ratisbon_; that he could do me no Service; and he said also, without giving any Reason for it, that even tho' the whole Dyet was to intercede for me, he would do nothing for me: This Expression, which I could not think an ambiguous one, made me cease to sollicit him.

At this same time the Emperor declar'd the Marriage of his Niece the Archduchess with _Charles-Albert Cajetan_, the Electoral Prince of _Bavaria_: The Elector of _Bavaria_ had waited for this News a long time, and he receiv'd it almost at the same Instant when he heard that his Third Son the Duke _Clement_, the Bishop of _Munster_ and _Paderborn_, had been elected Coadjutor of _Cologne_, in spite of the Opposition which several Powers had secretly fomented against him in the Chapter. The Cardinal of _Saxe_ had conceiv'd some Hopes of attaining to this Dignity; but he desisted from his Pretensions for a very considerable Sum of Money in Hand, and for the Grant of the Provostship of _Alten-Ottingen_ in _Bavaria_ to the Prince his Nephew. _M. de Plettenberg_, the Envoy of _Munster_, gave a grand Feast on account of his Master's new Dignity: He caus'd a great Room and several Tents to be erected at the Gates of _Ratisbon_, where there was Play under the Tents, and a Supper in the long Room: The Cardinal of _Saxe_ was present at it, and the Envoys with their Ladies, and all the Quality there in general were invited to it: After the Feast there was a Firework, to give time to prepare the long Room for the Ball, which held till Day-light.

Not long after this Entertainment the Cardinal of _Saxe_ set out for _Hungary_, where he was to preside in quality of Primate of that Kingdom, at the Dyet which met there this Year: The Emperor and Empress assisted at it, to settle the Affairs of the Succession of that Crown, the Right of which the States of the Country acknowledg'd to belong to the Archduchesses, Daughters of their Imperial Majesties, and to their Posterity, in case it should please God not to grant their Majesties a Son.

After the Cardinal was gone, I stay'd at _Ratisbon_ no longer than was absolutely necessary to take Leave of the Ministers of the Electors and the other Envoys, from whom I had receiv'd all manner of Civilities; for many of them, not content with shewing me the utmost Complaisance, extended their Regards further, and knowing the State of my Affairs, they had behav'd with a Generosity to me, which I shall always remember with Gratitude; and happy should I be, could I one Day or other find an Opportunity to shew them Proofs of it! The only one I can give them now is, to mention their Names to you: The Regard you always had for me will no doubt engage you, _Madame_, to esteem them as such generous Friends deserve, which will be an Advantage they will prize the more, because as they have the Honour to be acquainted with you, they know full well that you never grant your Esteem, where it is not justly merited.

The Count _de Konigsfelt_, the Envoy of _Bavaria_, was one of those who strove most with the Cardinal to serve me: This Minister liv'd very grand at _Ratisbon_: Every thing about him was of the utmost Magnificence: His Table was exquisite, his Music perfectly well compos'd, his Equipages of a noble Fancy, and he had a great Number of Domestics, all well cloath'd: All this external Appearance diffus'd an Air of Grandeur throughout this Minister's Houshold, which gave a sublime Idea of the Prince whom he represented: The Sollicitations of this Minister for me were warmly seconded by the other Envoys, who also drew their Purse-strings for me: These were the Baron _de Kirchner_, the Joint Commissioner; _M. de Vriesberg_, the Envoy of _Hanover_; _M. de Plettenberg_, the Envoy of _Munster_; the Baron _de Duremberg_; the Envoy of _Hesse-Cassel_; and _M. de Hagen_, the Envoy of the Duke of _Saxe-Gotha_.

After having discharg'd what I thought Politeness and Gratitude demanded of me, I set out from _Ratisbon_, to meet my Brother, who was at _Dusseldorff_ solliciting a Law-Suit, which we were jointly carrying on with _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, and which we lost, no doubt because it was not the Decree of Providence that we should enjoy the good Things of this World.

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When I set out from _Ratisbon_ I took the shortest Road, which was to go thro' _Nuremberg_, _Wurtzbourg_ and _Francfort_: I stopp'd a few Days at WURTZBOURG[34], one of the richest and most considerable Bishopricks in the Empire: The Bishop assumes the Title of Duke of _Franconia_: He, who then possess'd this See, was of the Family _Schonborn_: This Prelate kept up a Court and Houshold as considerable as any Prince in _Germany_: I saw him in all his Glory upon the Festival of the Patron of the Cathedral: He went from his House to the Church, with a Pomp truly Royal. I saw first the Bishop's Harbinger, follow'd by all the Domestics and Gentlemen of his Court: Then came Six Coaches, drawn each by Six Horses, with the Bishop's Arms: Afterwards there follow'd Two of the Prince's Running-Footmen, and 24 of his other Footmen, all dress'd in his Livery, which was Purple, with Lace of green Velvet, mix'd with Silver Lace, and they had Waistcoats of green Cloth, lac'd with Silver: After the Footmen march'd 18 Pages with Cloaks of the Bishop's Livery, lin'd with green Sattin: These were follow'd by above 50 Gentlemen, who walk'd immediately before a stately Coach, in which the Prince rode alone: His Master of the Horse, and the Captain of his Guards walk'd on Foot by the Sides of the Coach, which was guarded by Two Files of the Hundred _Swiss_, dress'd in the antique manner: 50 Life-Guards in Habits of purple Cloth lac'd with Silver, and with Bandoleers of green Velvet, lac'd also with Silver, follow'd the Coach: The March was, clos'd by Three fine Coaches, drawn each by Six Horses, with the Bishop's Arms: Arriving with this Train at his Cathedral, he was receiv'd at the Gate by all the Chapter in a Body: A _Domicellaire_ carry'd the Banner of _Franconia_, and the Marshal of the Bishop's Court bore the Sword of State, to denote the Sovereignty of the Duchy of _Franconia_: The Prelate being conducted to the Vestry, and there array'd in his Pontificalibus, walk'd into the Choir: His Throne was rais'd Three Steps from the Floor, and plac'd under a magnificent Canopy, all of Tapistry, with a Silver Ground: As soon as he was seated the Office began, by a very fine Piece of Music, perform'd by the Bishop's Musicians: After a very short Anthem the Prelate took the Holy Sacrament from the Altar, and carry'd it in Procession out of the Church: He went all round the Cathedral with it, preceded by the _Domicellaire_, and the Marshal of his Court, bearing one the Banner of _Franconia_, and the other the Sword: The Streets thro' which the Procession pass'd were lin'd with 4000 Men of the Bishop's Troops, which he had order'd into the Town to give the greater Splendor to the Ceremony: When the Procession was return'd to the Church, Mass was sung to Music, and the Bishop officiated: The Ceremony being ended, he return'd to his Palace, with the same Train that attended him to the Church.

The City of _Wurtzbourg_ resembles the Magnificence of its Bishop, and has Buildings both sacred and profane, which are very grand: I will give you a more particular Account of some of them, after I have added a Word or Two of the City itself: 'Tis an ancient City, and has been subject to many Revolutions: 'Twas taken in 1526 by the Peasants of _Swabia_ and _Franconia_, who rebell'd against their Lords upon a Supposition that _Luther_, who at that time preach'd up Rebellion against the Authority of the Pope, would likewise approve of their Revolt from their Sovereigns: _Luther_, however, instead of approving of their Conduct, wrote strenuously against them, but there was a Necessity of employing other Methods than Remonstrances to reclaim them: _George Truchses_ of _Waldbourg_, Colonel of the _Swabian_ League, soon reduc'd them to their Duty: He fac'd them with a good Number of Soldiers, and the Peasants were so rash as to make Head against them; for which, however, they suffer'd dearly, for they were defeated in several Engagements; and I was assur'd, that it cost the Lives of above 50,000 of them: After this Defeat _Wurtzbourg_ remain'd quiet till _William of Grumbach_, who had some Complaint against the Bishop, caus'd him to be assassinated: The Chapter of _Wurtzbourg_ prepar'd to revenge the Death of their Bishop, but _Grumbach_ resolv'd to prevent them, and putting himself at the Head of 1200 Men, he surpriz'd the City in 1563, abandon'd it to the Pillage of his Soldiers, and by that means forc'd the Chapter to come to Terms with him: The Emperor _Ferdinand_ II. being soon inform'd of _Grumbach_'s Transactions, put him under the Ban of the Empire; whereupon _Grumbach_ retir'd to _John-Frederic_, Duke of _Saxony_, Son to that _John-Frederic_ whom the Emperor _Charles_ V. had degraded from the Electoral Dignity: This Misfortune of the Father ought to have been a Warning to the Son not to grant his Protection to such a Rebel as _Grumbach_: Nevertheless, it was no Restraint to him: The Emperor, incens'd at such Conduct, put the Duke also under the Ban of the Empire, and charg'd _Augustus_, Elector of _Saxony_, to see the Ban put in Execution: This Elector acquitted his Commission so well, that he secur'd _John-Frederic_, and sent him to the Emperor, who caus'd him to be committed Prisoner to _Neustad_, where, after 26 Years Imprisonment, the unhappy Prince dy'd: _Grumbach_, who was also arrested, was condemn'd to be broke alive, and his Accomplices were beheaded.

Ever since this Expedition _Wurtzbourg_ has enjoy'd a profound Tranquillity; which has render'd it so rich and powerful as it is at this Day: Its Buildings both sacred and profane, as I have already had the Honour to mention to you, are very magnificent, and its Cathedral is a vast great Building, which contains immense Wealth: All the Ornaments of the Altar, the Pulpit, and the Two great Candlesticks before the Altar, are of solid Silver, as are also several Statues of our Saviour, the Holy Virgin, and some Saints as big as the Life: Besides all this Wealth there are beautiful and magnificent Hangings in the Choir, which represent some Passages of the Old Testament History: The Choir is higher than the Nave by several Steps: The High Altar consists of Four Pillars of black Marble, which form a Semicircle, and support a Cupola of Wood gilt, and very curiously wrought, which has on the Top of all a Ducal Crown: There are Chapels in the Body of the Church, where Vessels of Gold and Silver cast a Lustre on all Sides: The Bishop was building a Chapel by the Cathedral, which, when finish'd, must be very magnificent, for the Inside was to be lin'd throughout with Marble, which that Prelate had sent for from _Italy_ for the Purpose: He hasten'd it the more, _because_, said he to me upon a time, _I design to have my Bones laid there_. Perhaps this Prince was persuaded in his Mind that he had not long to live, for within a few Months he dy'd: He was succeeded by _Christopher-Francis_ of _Houtten de Stoltzenberg_, heretofore a Member of the Chapter of _Wurtzbourg_.

Besides the Cathedral there are several other fine Churches to be seen here, of which that of the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent: I afterwards went to see the Castle, which stands upon a Hill that looks over all the Town and Country: The Road that leads to it is very rough, and so incommodious for Coaches, that the late Bishop abandon'd it, and chose to dwell in a particular House in the Town, till the noble Castle which he was building was finish'd: I could not help thinking it wrong in him to leave a Structure so magnificent, and so suitable for a Sovereign, in which it may be said, that no Cost has been spar'd: 'Tis encompass'd on all Sides with Ramparts and other Works, which secure it from any Attack: The Inner Rooms of the Castle are indeed ancient, but they have lost nothing of that Air of Grandeur which denotes it to have been the Residence of a Prince: I never saw any thing look so fine as the Vaults in this Castle, which, because they can have no more Day-light than what peeps in at the Door, are illuminated by a great many Candles upon gilded Sconces: These Vaults are full of Barrels, most of which are of a monstrous Size, and they are all adorn'd with Carving, and full of Wine, of which they don't fail to let Foreigners have a Taste.

As we go from the Court of the Castle one enters the Court of the Arsenal, which is a Building of Brick and Free-Stone: The lower Rooms are perfectly well arch'd over, and contain about 160 Brass Guns, the Generality of which are 24 Pounders, and some carry from 40 to 48 Pound Ball. The Pillars that support the Arch are garnish'd as well as the Walls with all the Instruments that are necessary for Gunners, and with every thing belonging to a Train of Artillery, even to the Harness of Horses: The Bases were adorn'd with Boxes full of Musket-Balls: Underneath there are large fine Cellars stor'd with Provisions enough to maintain 6000 Men for a Year. The upper Rooms serve for the Arms, of which I was assur'd there were enough for 40,000 Men, Horse and Foot, all rang'd in such Order, that 'tis a Pleasure to see them: The hollow Spaces are full of Flints and Balls: The Court of this Arsenal, and all the Bastions of the Castle are full of Bombs and Bullets: In short, to examine this Castle well, one would take it for the Temple of _Mars_, rather than for the Palace of a Minister of Peace.

The new Castle which the Bishop was building when I went into his Capital stands in the Town itself, near the Gate that leads to _Nuremberg_: 'Twill be one of the finest in _Europe_, if the Model I have seen of it be exactly pursued: All the Foundations were already finish'd, and about a Fourth Part of the Castle carry'd up to the first Story: But tho' there was no Want of Labour, yet it requires a good deal of Time to bring to Perfection a Structure which is 360 and odd Feet in Front, and forms Five great Courts: The Bishop's Design was to make the principal Stair-case of Marble, and to line the Chapel, the Guard-Chamber, the great Rooms of the Palace, and all the Chimneys and Doors with the same: The Gardens were to be answerable to the Magnificence of the Building, and the Bishop had actually demolish'd the Ramparts, and fill'd up the Ditches; but Death stopp'd him in the midst of his Undertaking, and he has left his Successor to take care, that the Work be finish'd according to the Plan of it, which has been admir'd by those who are good Judges.

After I had seen the Two Castles, I went to visit the great Hospital, which is a very fine Establishment: This Building is compos'd of a great Pavilion in the middle of Two very large Wings: The principal Entrance is thro' the Pavilion, to which there is an Ascent by Two Steps; and on the Right and Left are Two fine Galleries in Form of Arches, which serve as Corridors to lead to the necessary Offices for maintaining the poor Pensioners of the Hospital: At the Top of the Stair-case of the Pavilion is an Entry, which leads to a couple of close Galleries, in which are the Chambers of the Pensioners, and to a large fine Room, all over carv'd, painted and gilt: On the Left Hand are Two great Closets, in which the Bishops retire during the Holy Week. The second Story is like the first; there's a Room like to that I have been speaking of, wherein the Bishop, assisted by his Chapter, washes the Feet of the Poor upon _Holy-Thursday_, and afterwards regales, and serves them at Table, accompany'd by the Canons of his Chapter, who, when all is over, dine with him in the Room below Stairs: Behind this Hospital is a very fine Garden, adorn'd with Fountains, Grotto's, and a fine Orangery, kept in very good Order; which is for the Pensioners to walk in when they please: The late Bishop, who was in every thing magnificent, design'd to enlarge this Building with Four Pavilions, like to that subsisting, which would have form'd a fine Court in the middle: There are other Hospitals also at _Wurtzbourg_ to the Number of 15 or 16, all so well endow'd, as fully proves the Good-nature and Wealth of the People of this Country.

After I had stay'd at _Wurtzbourg_, I embark'd on the _Maine_, in which is most pleasant Sailing betwixt Vineyards and fine Plains, that form a Prospect as agreeably diversify'd as can be wish'd: When I arriv'd at _Francfort_ I heard of the Death of _Madamoiselle de Pollnitz_, to whose Estate in _Holland_ I was joint Heir with my Brother, but her other Estates went to her Mother, who was still living.

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From _Francfort_ I went to _Dusseldorp_, where I found my Brother, who was still in an ill Humour with the Judges, for having made us lose our Cause: For my Part, as I was more inur'd to Disappointments, I endeavour'd to comfort him, and advis'd him to go to _Berlin_, and sell what Estate we had there: The Death of my dear Cousin set us at Liberty to proceed to this Sale; for now the Entail was only between my Brother and me: My Brother set out therefore for _Berlin_, and I went to HAMBOURG, to wait the Issue of the Sale: I stay'd there from _November_ to _Easter_, and spent the Winter very happily: I have already had the Honour to acquaint you, speaking of this City, that here was generally good Company: But this Winter there was more than usual, most of the People of Quality that had Houses in the Neighbourhood coming thither to pass the Season, and there were moreover several Ministers sent to the Circle of _Lower Saxony_, who were for most Part charming good Company: Such a one was _M. Poussin_, the Envoy of _France_, who was really a Minister of great Parts and uncommon Merit: The other Envoys were all likewise choice Companions: Besides these Ministers there were several other Families at _Hambourg_ where Foreigners of any tolerable Rank were perfectly well entertain'd: The Count _de Nat_, a Lieutenant-General in the Emperor's Service, and formerly Minister of State to the Duke of _Holstein_, and General of his Forces, kept a grand House there, which was noted for one of the best in _Hambourg_, where was a great Resort of Company every Day without the least Confusion: And there was a charming Air of Liberty throughout, which receiv'd additional Lustre from the noble and gracious Deportment of the Countess, that Minister's Wife, to all Strangers that came to her: I need not give you a more particular Account of this Lady; for I remember to have heard you speak of her, as a Person of distinguish'd Merit, and who, with a great Share of Wit, was to the utmost degree polite. The Count _de Guldenstein_ made a considerable Figure also at _Hambourg_; his Table was delicate, and always furnish'd with the best of Company; judge, _Madame_, whether I could think the time tedious in a City, where from Morning till Night there was a continual Round of Pleasure: We din'd to Day at one House, To-morrow at another; and in the Afternoons there was Play, which was sometimes interrupted by Adjournments to the Opera, with which I was very well pleas'd: I found the Orchestre excellent, the Decorations noble, the Dances very well executed, the Actors richly dress'd, and such as endeavour'd to play their Parts for the best.

* * * * *

I set out from _Hambourg_ with a numerous Company to go to the Fair of KIEL, which begins the next Day after _Epiphany_, and holds Three Weeks: All this time _Hambourg_ is a perfect Desert, for every body hurries to this Fair, because 'tis there that they are commonly paid their Rents, that Leases are renew'd with the Farmers, and that Money is let out to Advantage: Tho' I had no Business of this nature to transact there, yet I was determin'd not to stay behind so much good Company as went from _Hambourg_.

The Town itself is inconsiderable; it stands between Hills on an Arm of the Sea, where it forms a Lake, and washes the Walls of the Duke's Castle, which is in very bad Repair, and quite unfurnish'd: And there's a Garden to it, which is in as bad Order as the Building: This Town is so populous all the Fair-time, that 'tis difficult to get a Lodging: The Gentry meet every Evening at a House, where is Variety of Play, and very often there are Parties made for Supper, which is generally follow'd with a Ball: There is moreover a _German_ Comedy, which, tho' detestable, is well frequented.

After the Fair was over, I went and pass'd Two Days with a Friend of mine at an Estate of his Three Leagues from _Kiel_: Then I return'd to _Hambourg_, where I stay'd till _Easter_, and having receiv'd News from _Berlin_, that no Purchaser could be found who was willing to give so much Money for my Estate as I demanded; I resolv'd to go thither, in order to make some Settlement about it with my Brother; I kept there _incog._ as well as I could, for I made myself known to only Two or Three Friends besides my Steward: When my Business was done I set out from _Berlin_ with my Brother, in order to go to his House at _Zell_; where I intended to stay till the proper Season for taking the Waters at _Carelsbadt_.

* * * * *

When that time came, I departed from _Zell_: I stay'd some time at BLANKENBERG, where the Empress's Father and Mother then resided: This is no considerable Town: There is a Castle, which, by its Situation upon a very high Hill, is mightily inconvenient for the Duke's Domestics, who all live in the Town: 'Tis an old Building, which the Father of the present Duke has caus'd to be repair'd and fitted up, as well as possible in the modern Taste: The Apartments are small, the only large one being a very beautiful Saloon, the Walls whereof are adorn'd with Pilasters, and Pictures between them of the Princes and Princesses, Parents to the Duke and Duchess: And at the End of the Saloon are Chimneys, over which are the Pictures of the Duke and Duchess themselves at full Length.

To this Castle is a very fine Park adjoining, in which the Duchess has a Menagery, or rather, a Farm-house, where she has a great Number of Cows that she sent for from _Swisserland_, in a Stable which is kept extraordinary clean.

The Duke and Duchess were so kind to me, that I long'd to be in their Service: I had no longer any Thoughts of being a Clergyman, and was then at entire Liberty to make serious Reflections upon all the Projects that had enter'd into my Head: Having then a Fancy to serve the Duke of _Blankenberg_, I took my Measures for that End almost as soon as I had thought of it: The Privy Counsellor undertook to speak for me, and at first he had a very favourable Answer, but at last it far'd with me in this Attempt, as it had in all the rest; I receiv'd a great many Compliments, and yet was deny'd.

After having stay'd awhile at _Blankenberg_, I took Leave of the Duke and Duchess: The Princess was so good as to accept of a Couple of very pretty Dogs I had brought with me; and me made me a Present of a Gold Medal worth 25 Ducats, stamp'd with the Effigy of the Duke her Husband, very much like him.

From _Blankenberg_ I went to BARBI[35], where I had the Honour of waiting upon the Duke of _Saxony_, who commonly resides there: This Prince was heretofore in the Service of the late King of _Prussia_, when he was only Elector: He had left the Service a long time, and retir'd to his Town of _Barbi_, where he has erected a noble Castle, the Apartments of which are perfectly well furnish'd: There's a superb Saloon, with a Chamber of Audience on one Side of it, and a Closet, that are both worth seeing; all the Furniture being of crimson Velvet embroider'd with Gold, of admirable Workmanship.

* * * * *

From _Barbi_ I proceeded to CARELSBADT by the way of _Leipsick_: I was soon weary of using the Waters, because the Season was so far advanc'd, that most of the Water-Drinkers were gone: Having therefore nothing to write to you of any of the Acquaintance which is commonly made at Places of this nature, I shall only treat of _Carelsbadt_ itself: 'Tis a very dirty Place, and inhabited only by Artificers, who work in old Iron: The Waters taken here are of Two Kinds, and they are distinguish'd by the Names of the _Sproudel_ and the _Muhlbadt_: The _Sproudel_-Water is extremely hot, and gushes out of the Ground with a most vehement Stream, as big as a Man about the Waist: Its Waters are not only hot, but scalding hot, which is the more surprizing, because the Fountain from whence they flow, is on the Side of a River very rapid, and very cold: Yet, in the midst of this River, one sees mineral Waters, which smoak as if they were boiling in a Caldron.

As to the _Muhlbadt_ 'tis but little more than lukewarm: 'Tis not very long that the Physicians have prescrib'd the Use of this Water, which formerly serv'd to wash diseased Cattle in with very good Success; but the Physicians taking the nature of this Water into Consideration, have since recommended it to those People who find the Waters of the _Sproudel_ too violent in their Operation: I have made Use of both, and they work'd with me very well: They have no ill Taste; and 'tis certain, that if it were ever so little disagreeable, it would be impossible for People to drink so much of it, as they do every Day: The thing that I dislike them most for, is, that they must be taken in one's Chamber, which must be also kept close shut up, because the _Sproudel_ makes one sweat largely, so that were ever so little Air to be let into the Room, one should be in Danger of catching Rheumatisms: People scarce ever stir out till Three or Four Hours after they have done drinking the Waters; and the rest of the Day there's an absolute Necessity of walking about to prevent sleeping, which after Dinner is dangerous: The worst on't is, that as necessary as Walking is, there's not one agreeable Place to walk in, the Walks being all extremely narrow, and nothing but Rocks to be seen, look which way one will: The finest Walk of all is in a square Place, which is planted with Rows of Lime-Trees: Opposite to this Square is a great House, where there are very fine Rooms, in which the Persons of Quality, who drink the Waters, assemble at Five o'Clock, and play till Eight, the Hour for Supper, at which Meal People ought to be very sparing; Regimen being one of the most necessary things to be observ'd in the Taking of those Waters.

When I had done taking them I set out Post for PRAGUE, where I knew that their Imperial Majesties were to be present for their Consecration and Coronation: I arriv'd there the Day before their Majesties were to make their Entry, which was perform'd with great Magnificence, but would have been abundantly more pompous, if the bad Weather had not prevented the intended Cavalcade, which would have been one of the noblest Sights in the World: The Emperor propos'd to have enter'd this Capital on Horseback, at the Head of all the Nobility of _Bohemia_, and they had all laid out prodigious Sums in Horses and Equipages; but a monstrous Shower of Rain fell, which frustrated all the Preparations: Their Majesties made their Entry in a magnificent Coach lin'd with crimson Velvet, richly embroider'd with Gold: The Emperor, who sate alone in the Back part of it, was dress'd in a Habit of Silver Brocade embroider'd with Gold, with a Hat on in the Imperial Fashion, with straw-colour'd Plumes: The Empress, who sate over-against him, was dress'd in a green silver'd Stuff all cover'd with Diamonds: The Two young Archduchesses follow'd in another Coach, with the Princess of _Aversberg_ their Governess in Company.

As soon as it was known in the City that their Majesties were coming, all the Bells were rung, the Cannon fir'd from the Ramparts, and the Burghers and Garison made several Salvo's of the Small Arms: The Magistrates of the Three Towns which compose the City of _Prague_ receiv'd their Majesties at the City Gates, where the chief Burgomaster of the Quarter call'd the _Old Town_ gave them the Keys of the Three Towns, and congratulated them on their Arrival at the City of _Prague_: After he had ended his Speech, their Majesties were welcom'd a second time by the Cannon of the Ramparts, and by the Salvo's of the Small Arms from the Burghers and the Garison: They then continued their March towards the Palace, and in their Passage met with the Friars and Nuns, who saluted them at the Gates of their several Convents: The Emperor and the Empress stopp'd their Coach every now-and-then, on Purpose to be seen by those Friars; but there was no Convent that was treated with so many Marks of Distinction as that of the Jesuits: They had the Honour of complimenting their Majesties in a Speech, with which they seem'd well satisfy'd: When they were arriv'd at the Palace, their Majesties alighted from the Coach, and went to the Metropolitan Church, which joins to the Palace: The Archbishop of _Prague_, at the Head of the Bishops his Suffragans and his Chapter, receiv'd them as they alighted out of the Coach, and after having complimented them in the Name of all the Clergy, he conducted them to their Praying-Desk, which was plac'd over-against the High Altar, and there their Majesties receiv'd the Blessing of the Holy Sacrament: After this there was a _Te Deum_, during which there was a triple Discharge of the Cannon and Small Arms: This done, they retir'd to their Apartments thro' a cover'd Gallery, which runs from the Church to the Castle: At Night they supp'd in public with the Two young Archduchesses.

Next Day their Majesties receiv'd the Compliments of the Three Estates of the Kingdom: On the following Days the Court return'd to their old Custom; I mean, they liv'd at _Prague_, after the same manner as they did at _Vienna_, till every thing was ready for the Ceremonies of the Consecration and Coronation, which were to be perform'd on Two different Days.

Mean time I amus'd myself in viewing what was most remarkable in the Town, and had Reason to be very well pleas'd with the Steps, which I was oblig'd to take to be well acquainted with this Capital[36], which may in my Opinion be reckon'd among the first Towns in _Europe_: It stands in a pleasant and fruitful Country, and the Palace and Pleasure-houses round it form a sort of Amphitheatre, which the River of _Moldaw_ divides into Two Parts, that are join'd by one of the finest Bridges in the World.

_Prague_ is divided into Three Parts, _viz._ The _Old Town_, which alone is as big as the other two Thirds of the City, namely, The _Little Town_ and The _New Town_: In the _Little Town_ stands the Metropolitan Church, and the Castle of the Kings of _Bohemia_, upon a Hill which they call _Ratschin_: This is the first Quarter of _Prague_ that one comes to from _Nuremberg_ or _Carelsbadt_.

The Metropolitan would be a great and noble Church, if it was finish'd; or rather, if it was rebuilt; for 'twas burnt by the _Swedes_ in 1648; what remains of it is inconsiderable, excepting however some very fine Chapels, that contain the Relics of certain Saints, for whom _Bohemia_ has a singular Veneration: Such is the Chapel in which rests the Body of _St. Wenceslaus_ King of _Bohemia_, by whom the Church was founded: This Saint is the Patron of _Bohemia_, and the whole Kingdom has a great Confidence in his Intercession: On one Side of the Choir is a stately Mausoleum, which contains the Body of _St. John Nepomucene_, who was beatify'd in 1721 with very great Pomp, in Presence of the Empress, who was at the Charge of the Ceremony: The City of _Prague_, in order to do Honour to the Memory of this Saint, has caus'd his Statue in Brass, as big as the Life, to be erected upon the Bridge, from whence the Emperor _Wenceslaus_, surnam'd the _Nero_ and _Caligula_ of _Germany_, threw him into the _Moldaw_, because that Friar, who was his Empress's Confessor, refus'd to reveal her Confession to him.

The Palace of the Kings of _Bohemia_, which joins to the Metropolitan Church, is a Heap of several Pavilions without any Regularity, and without much Ornament: The Inside is as ordinary as the Outside, yet for a little Expence it might easily be made a tolerable Structure: The only thing I observ'd here that could be call'd magnificent, was the Situation of it, for from their Majesties Apartments there's the finest View that can be imagin'd.

As one goes from the Palace upon the same Hill, one sees the great Houses of _Schwartzenbourg_, _Martinitz_, and _Tschermin_, which are noble Buildings, and most richly furnish'd: The last especially has more the Air of a Sovereign's Palace than of the House of a Subject; and he that inhabits it is one of the richest in the Emperor's Hereditary Dominions: I heard say, that he lent the Emperor 1500,000 Florins, which makes Three Millions of _French_ Livres, when the Exchange is at Par.

I went down the Hill _Ratschin_ to go farther into the City: And on the Descent of it I saw at the Right Hand the Palace of _Kinski_, which belongs to the Great Chancellor of _Bohemia_; and at the Left Hand the Palace of the Count _de Collobradt_, surnam'd the _Bulky_, and very justly so, for I don't think he has his Fellow in the World; and yet it may be expected, that he will be bigger still, for he is as yet but 24 Years old. These Two Houses are very beautiful, but yet they are somewhat eclipsed by the Palaces of _Colloredo_, _Wallenstein_, and the Count _Francis-Charles de Collobradt_: The Palace of this latter excells the others in Contrivance and Magnificence, and is adorn'd throughout with very fine Gildings and Paintings, done by the best Masters: The Apartments are richly furnish'd, and neither Gold has been spar'd, nor Pier-Glasses, of which there's a great Number, and yet not so many as to confound the Sight: To this House belongs a very fine Garden, which is kept in good Order, and at the End of it is a Hill, the Declivity whereof is soften'd by several Terraces cut out on it, which form very pleasant Walks, especially when 'tis consider'd, that all this is in the middle of a City.

I went afterwards to see the _Old Town_, to which one must pass over a noble Stone-Bridge, and the only one at _Prague_: The Piles of this Bridge are adorn'd with the Statues of several Saints; and some that compose noble Groupes: Among these Statues is that of _St. John Nepomucene_, at the Foot of which are People always at Prayers. On the same Side, but nearer the old City, is a great Crucifix of Copper gilt, which the _Jews_ were compell'd to set up in this Place, as a Punishment for some Crimes they had committed.

At the End of the Bridge stands the Gate of the _Old Town_: The first thing one observes there, is the Great Convent and College of the Jesuits: 'Tis a prodigious Building, and worthy of a Society so considerable: Beyond that I saw a magnificent Palace, which they told me belongs to the Count _de Gallasch_, Son to the Count of the same Name, who died Viceroy of _Naples_: 'Tis one of the finest Buildings in _Prague_, setting aside its Situation, which is not the best: There are many other Palaces and magnificent Houses, the particular Description of which might be tedious: All that I shall say to you of this Part of the Town, is, that the Streets are very narrow, and withal darksome: The _New Town_ is by far superior; the Streets are spacious and beautiful, and the whole Quarter is much better built than the other Two.

The City of _Prague_ and the Kingdom of _Bohemia_ in general have formerly been subject to great Revolutions: The _Hussites_ committed sad Disorders there, and had like to have ruin'd the whole Country by their Cabals; so that there was a Necessity of drawing the Sword against them, and when they were totally extirpated, the Protestants of _Luther_'s Communion became so powerful there, that they presum'd, under Pretence of Religion, to revolt from the Emperor _Ferdinand_ their Sovereign: They ran tumultuously to the Castle, and having made themselves Masters of it, they threw the Emperor's Commissioners, who then held their Assembly there, out of the Windows of the Hall: Those on the Spot were the Barons _de Slavata_ and _de Martinitz_; and the Secretary _Fabricius_ had the same Fate; but happily for all Three, there was not one of them wounded: After this _Coup d'Eclat_ the Rebels rais'd Troops, solemnly protested against the Election of _Ferdinand_ II. to the Empire, and offer'd the Crown of _Bohemia_ to _Frederic_ V. Elector and Count Palatine of the _Rhine_: This Prince could not easily determine himself to receive a Crown, which he could not so soon expect to possess in Quiet; but his Wife, who was the Daughter of _James_ I. King of _England_, did not amuse herself with any such Reflections and probably upon the Principle, _That to reign is glorious, tho' it were only for a Moment_: This Princess so wrought upon the Elector, that the said Prince, for Want of knowing his own Interest better, consented at length to put himself at the Head of the Rebels, who had the Assurance to crown him with Solemnity in the Metropolitan Church of _Prague_: The Emperor, justly provok'd at the Behaviour of his Subject, sent Troops to reduce them to Reason: _Frederic_, on his Part, put himself at the Head of a considerable Army; but 'twas impossible for him to stand before the Emperor's Troops; which being commanded by the famous _Tilly_, beat him to such a Degree, that he thought himself very happy, that he could retire with the Queen his Wife, and abandon the Throne to his lawful Sovereign: This Rebellion involv'd _Germany_ in that unhappy War call'd, _The War of Thirty Years_; because in Fact it lasted so long, till a Period was put to it by the Peace of _Westphalia_.

During the Course of this War _Bohemia_ had frequent Cause to repent that it ever was the Occasion of it: The City of _Prague_, and in particular the _Little Town_, was almost intirely plunder'd and burnt in 1648 by the _Swedes_, who were introduced into it by one _Ottowalsky_, then a Captain of Horse in the Service of the Emperor _Ferdinand_ III. This Officer having conceiv'd a Disgust at something, made a Trip to _Koningsmark_ the _Swedish_ General, and offer'd to introduce him to _Prague_, if he would follow him with his Army: For this Purpose he told him, that the Citizens were intirely secure against any Apprehension of an Attack from the _Swedes_; and that they were fully persuaded, they would never venture to make the least Attempt, considering the Handful of Soldiers which their Army consisted of. _Koningsmark_ relish'd _Ottowalsky_'s Project, and on the Day fix'd he follow'd him with his little Army, which did not amount to above 3000 Men: He found every thing true that his Guide had told him, and in the Night-time enter'd the Place by a Bridge, that serv'd to carry over the Materials employ'd in the new Fortifications: _Koningsmark_ push'd on directly to the Castle, which he enter'd with the same Ease as he had enter'd the Town: But by good Luck the Emperor happen'd at that time to be gone from thence for awhile to _Lintz_: The _Swedes_ plunder'd the Castle and the City for Three Days successively; and they took so considerable a Booty, that _Colloredo_, who commanded in the Place, lost to his own Share about 1200,000 Crowns: While the _Swedes_ were busy in plundering that call'd the _Little Town_, the Alarm spread over the River to the _Old Town_, where the Burghers and Garison ran to their Arms, and by that means preserv'd their Quarter from the Fate which threaten'd them: Mean time the _Swedes_ made extraordinary Efforts to get over to them, and 'tis even said, that they would probably have succeeded, had it not been for the Jesuits, who perceiving that the Garison and Burghers were in Danger of being overpower'd, arm'd their Scholars, and sent them out to their Assistance.

The City of _Prague_ is now secure from such Insults, having good Walls and excellent Ramparts, well furnish'd with Cannon: The Castle is likewise very well fortify'd: A Citadel has been also built for the Defence of the _New Town_, and as none but Catholics are suffer'd to live there, the Protestants, who are absolutely excluded out of it, would find it a difficult Task to foment another Rebellion there.

* * * * *

After I had spent some time at _Prague_, and found that the Ceremony of their Majesties Coronation would not be perform'd so soon as expected, I resolv'd to be gone: Having already laid out a good deal of Money at _Prague_, I reflected with myself, that if I stay'd there any longer, it might be out of my Power to answer all my Schemes: For you must know, _Madame_, that I set out from _Berlin_ with a considerable Sum of Money, and with a Design, while I was so well able, to pay off all my Creditors: I began with those in _Holland_, and for this Purpose went to the HAGUE about the latter End of _August_, and stay'd there till _February_: The first Visit I paid was to my dear _Madame Pyll_, who had been so generous a Friend to me, that I could not avoid paying her off first: I then made several small Payments up and down, by which means the Debts I had contracted in this Country were quickly discharg'd; and being still pretty strong in Cash, I pass'd my Time at the _Hague_ as well as I could have done at the most splendid Court; My Debts in this Country being now clear'd, and the Ease with which I had satisfy'd other Debts that were standing out farther off, gave me that Tranquillity of Mind which I had not enjoy'd for a long time; and tho' I had yet no fix'd Establishment, I thought what a great Happiness it was for a Man to be even with the World.